'Roarer' vs 'Silent' burners. BernieDawg silent minicap demo

[@COIcultist]

Hello you don't mention the advantage of the silent burner has, that of lower power simmering. A 1-minute difference in boil times is nothing to me but burnt stew is a pain in the proverbial. When you first lit the silent burner from the priming burn I was thinking "How did he avoid under burn?" BernieDawg is very keen on lighting after the priming fire has gone out. Then as the burn continued I thought the red tinge to the top of the flame might be evidence of under burn, but no one else including people who have used silent burners said anything. Your thoughts?

[@Thereal111t]

Yeah you’re right the low simmer is a key feature. You’re absolutely right that the proper way to light a silent burner is to wait for the prime to go out and light at the top. With the berniedawg caps I’ve found that just as often as not they’ve lit properly doing it either way. Underburn is a pretty distinctive state of operation. The noise is completely different than normal operation and in my experience no flame comes out of the top. I’ve mainly had under burn on my 111t. Simple fix... shut it down and relight it. The yellow flame you see in this video goes away if I put a pot on there.

[@allanschmidt8859]

Could you use whiskey or vodka to prime?

[@Thereal111t]

If it was high enough proof. I’ve used Bacardi 151 (rum) once as a novelty. It’s expensive though.

[@XxKnivesNGunsxX]

any noticeable difference in BTU silent versus roarer. The svea is rated for 5000 BTU any idea what it would be with a silent burner

[@Thereal111t]

See above.

[@richardpeterson3753]

The silent burner is nice though.didnt know they made one like that.and your units are pretty awesome to.i almost picked up an optimus.now I wish I had,could have fixed my sigg tourist

[@YourOldPalFernbark]

Thanks for the vid. I want a SVEA 123, but don't want the noise.

[@martinadejaquiz2482]

1st of all, thank you very much for the excellent informative video! i have interest in both of these stoves because i just think they both are cool! probably for right now i'm most interested in the 8R because of it small packability, but i think the 123 stove is really cool, too! is the lid of the 8R removable at the hinges? if the lid is not removable, is the lid in the way of a windscreen when in use? also, do you know if parts are readily available for the 8R and do you know where to buy the parts? thanks you so much!

[@Thereal111t]

Thanks for watching! No the 8r lid does not come off. There is another model, the Optimus 99 that has a two part case. Its basically the same stove. Windscreens are problematic for all of the fold open box type stoves. All you need is a tall windscreen for the 123. You don't want a super tight screen for either stove to prevent the tank from overheating.

[@Thereal111t]

Also 'bella10202' on eBay is A&H pack stoves and a good source for parts. They have a rebuild kit for the 8r. www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/272056856946

[@martinadejaquiz2482]

+Thereal111t TY very much... i'm looking at the Optimus 99 now on EB from your message info. and at the 8R rebuild kit, too. all from your info. the Optimus 99 looks nice to me! i see the 99 is sort of expensive at the moment on EB...i guess it's a bit more rare than the 8R? thank you for the bella10202 parts source as well. the 99 looks very interesting to me! i'm gonna keep on checking into the 99 on EB and may buy one? thank you my friend - i certainly do appreciate you!

[@richardpeterson3753]

Seeing some variaty in burner disigns.wonder how many can fit this stove.not opposed to an upgrade.as long as its not 40-60$ anyway lol

[@richardpeterson3753]

I can't email the guy that sells the silancer burner.is the link old or is my PC just a pos?I need a burner period,don't care if its loud or not.mine was dented up when I got my sigg tourist.any help is welcome

[@Thereal111t]

Is it the burner plate that is damaged? The burner bell?

[@brunostromme9904]

Will the Seva burn alcohol or kerosen or unleaded

[@Thereal111t]

Bruno Stromme it will burn white gas or in an emergency low octane auto gasoline. It will not burn alcohol or kerosene.

[@richardpeterson3753]

Honestly,it don't even have to be new.just in good shape.im not picky.i just need to get my stove fixed soon.me and my wife depend on this stove when we camp,and its a part of our emergency gear as well.

[@richardpeterson3753]

Its the old one.1960s ish.no needle.i did manage to clean the jet good.its just the burner.its bent pretty good.i haven't been able to tweek it back to shape.

[@Thereal111t]

www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/121810561184

[@Thereal111t]

Old school burner bell at 1:00!

[@Thereal111t]

I don't have any concrete btu ratings in either configuration. I will say that based on my experience there doesn't seem to be an actual practical difference in terms of heat output. The amount if fuel leaving the jet per unit of time is still the same. The flame is still blue. It is still combusting in about the same proximity to the pot. I suppose the added mass of the cap could act as some kind of heat sync. Once it heats up it's not a factor. The only difference I would suggest is that the flame of a silent burner is much more susceptible to wind due to the lower velocity of the gas leaving ports of the silent cap. Also I should have brought up a second 123 instead of the 8r. If I recall the manufacturer rates the 8r at a lower btu output than the 123.

[@XxKnivesNGunsxX]

thanks for the reply. I wish the dang things were not so much money or i would definitely have one. Maybe an investment down the rode. good vid

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

do a boil test. don't assume.

[@Thereal111t]

+Tim Barton Blackbear Prepper did a side by side boil test with two dragonfly stoves and the competition's caps that are a copy of the Bluewater stove restoration design. It was as scientific as possible. This is what he found: there was a 20 second difference in boil times with his setup. The stock configuration was 20 seconds faster than the stove with the silent cap. That is a small enough difference that I probably wouldn't have noticed it anecdotally. He made the point that the additional 20 seconds of burn time would require more fuel to be carried. I disagree. In practice I always carry more fuel than I think I'll need. At the risk of assuming, I can speculate as to the reason for the difference in time. 1) the mass of the cap has to heat up before it radiates the same way that the stock spreader does almost immediately. 2) The silent cap is more susceptible to wind than the stock configuration.

[@Thereal111t]

+Tim Barton so in conclusion, the amount of heat that one of these stoves produces when the flame is running blue, is more of a function of how much fuel is coming out of the jet, than the type of diffuser present. If blackbear Prepper really wanted to be scientific he could have run the test he did 20 or thirty times and averaged the results. I assume that it wouldn't be worth the work. Thanks for watching!

[@riverworm5087]

actually, quietstove was first with the solid piece design. bd copied that design from them and not the other way around.

[@richardpeterson3753]

I was just refered to Bella.got the site saved on my fone

[@richardpeterson3753]

Its the bell shaped part that screws on the jet,mine has a plate on top that directs the flame into four sections,and is considered a "roarer" burner.wth the damage,the flame is not even and all I found was an eBay store,which is hit and miss,and amazon,and they want around 50$ for the burner.thats a bit much for a brass burner.

[@Thereal111t]

You could continue to check eBay and see what you come up with. Alternatively contact eBay seller Bella10202. This is A&H pack stoves. Shirlene Thompson might have a 123 burner Bell that isn't listed on eBay. $50 is too much for sure. You might as well buy another complete used stove at that price. Is your stove the one with the built in cleaning needle or the older one? The current rebuild kit contains a replacement jet for the newer model. I found a rebuild kit for the older one on eBay. www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281829228428

[@Thereal111t]

The newer one should be on Amazon but it's also on ebay www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161872211151

[@Thereal111t]

Also if you have one of the new ones and the cleaning needle appears to be clogging up the jet.... You could always try removing the needle and running it without it.

[@RViscara]

I hate to say this but you really want to preheat with Alcohol all the time not just indoors. If you have used these stoves for any length in time you will know its not good to use the white gas "Coleman" as its very dirty as a preheat as apposed to when its burning in the burner bell.. When your burning white gas in the burner bell its a gas at that point. Burning in the preheat well its just cold fuel and is very sooty and dirty burning. When white gas is burning in the stove itself its a "GAS" not a liquid at that point making a big difference in how it burns and how clean it burns.

[@Thereal111t]

Thank you I understand this. It is true that white gas is dirtier than alcohol as a preheat fuel. The user manual specifies an Optimus branded fire paste noting that absent that alcohol or gasoline may be used. Given a choice between coleman fuel and gasoline to burn dirty I would pick coleman fuel always. I have used coleman fuel to prime many times and it works just fine. A bit dirtier... But fine.

[@RViscara]

+Thereal111t yes my point... But also the fact that means a jet that is far less clogged if you prime already with alcohol indoors one should complete the practice by doing so outdoors as well. The heat produced by the alcohol is much higher as well "Blue flame" vs "Orange flame" which I am sure many will tell you that its far hotter a important necessity in the winter or cold places. This is a silent cap that was taken from Bernie Dog the original creator of 3rd party silent caps.. Also a very important reason to use the alcohol to preheat as you need to be sure that silent cap is very hot.

[@brunostromme9904]

Ok thx

[@ИгорьМолоткин-э2т]

Казалось бы, вещь, простая. Ломаться нечему. Минимум подвижных деталей. Но! Сколько всяких мелочей!.Для нормальной работы, приносящей радость, а не беспокойство. Жиклёр, должен быть нужного диаметра. и смотреть прямо. Верхний "самолётик" "бдюдце", или "пятачок"... Строго позиционирован по высоте, и по центру струи... Стартовый разогрев, так же не мало важен, для последующей работы. Качество топлива, это отдельный разговор.

[@jiujitsu2000]

:-)