Common Faults/Problems with Fisher Paykel Smart Drive Washing Machine.

This video was one of my first filmed, and was made as an in house training guide for new technicians, going over what to check when assessing a Fisher and Paykel Smart Drive top loading washing machine.
Its not really a diagnostic guide as such, more of a list of the most common things to wear out and fail. The original idea was if refurbishing a machine, but you may find it useful if you are buying a machine second hand etc.
0:00 Pre-Intro
0:22 Intro
1:06 Fault Codes
1:24 Spline Drive/Neck Ring
2:12 Agitator
2:58 Suspension
3:27 Drain Hose
4:32 Thermistor Seal
6:08 Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) type
6:29 Check bearings
7:35 Drain Pump
7:53 Rotor Position Sensor (RPS)
8:24 Sensor/Switches corroding on older SD9

[@tonystark11074]

Thanks! Your videos are perfect. Proud Fisher Paykel owner - 17 years and counting 🙏🏼

[@motrepairs]

Thanks very much!

[@supergamingyt7280]

20 years here, Still works

[@ryderearlesroblox8620]

Morning Dan thanks for posting more fisher and paykel smart drive washing machines

[@motrepairs]

I've got a few more to do but don't want it to get boring taking about Smart Drives all the time haha

[@darrylparsons9875]

Thanks fella, super helpful video.

[@fastbike9845]

I replaced the bearings and main shaft seal on our 20 yr old phase 6 smartdrive (it was sounding like a jumbo jet on spin). Also cleaned the contacts on the controller with spray on switch cleaner. All working well now.

[@151mack1]

You are a very experienced technician who sounds like a very good guy to have look at your machine. Just doing a quick google on my F&P out of balance problem so than that I can get some idea of what to expect. Thank you. It would be great if your location was able to be flashed up on the vid.

[@motrepairs]

We cover the Motueka and Nelson areas of New Zealand, but a lot of people watch from Australia and other placed overseas where Fisher and Paykel sell machines. So my aim is more to help people with easy repairs rather then advertising, we are almost too busy as it is some times haha!

[@user-kj1te3hf9x]

Hi, I will check the support rods of my washing machine and reinforce them because continues stopping with the out of balance alarm. It is a fisher and paykel wa 1068 g1. My question is ; is the resetting mode the same than the older washsmart machines or different. Thanks for your help.

[@sharonking6131]

Oh my gosh, thank you. This is the exact thing that happened to mine and I was convinced I was going to have to buy another machine. $7 later, it works fine. Thank you so very much.

[@tonystark11074]

Ran 5-6 loads without incident. One minor out of balance run of sheets today. Now it won’t start. Lights work. After 60-90 seconds a mysterious hum erupts from the motor area. Ugh. I had two questionable beach blankets I washed I hope a massive amount of thread and lint didn’t clog it. Going into diag mode. Pray for me (even tho tbh changing the motor is easier than attaching a new Oreck vacuum bag 😂

[@davidmedley9652]

Hi fixed the water leak. $10 inlet elbow. I also have an out of balance issue. Is this likely to be the suspension springs?

[@motrepairs]

Yes usually the suspension rods will wear so they aren't damping as well as they should be. Rods are pretty easy to replace, if you lean the top deck back and replace them one at a time through the top.

[@Jmac178]

hello, i have an old MW511 that went well for years. i had an error code 56 and worked out that was bowl check, i shortened hose , and removed and cleaned years of 'gunk' from spline drive and made sure was level and solid. following your videos (which were great), it ran ok for couple of cycles but now it is stopped at spi cycle, makes noise but no spinning ??? I am wondering if i should be changing suspension rods, or looking at control board ??? ( i read in comments reapiring old models not the common so hoping your wisdom can assist :-)

[@motrepairs]

Don't just start replacing random parts, you need to confirm what is causing it to stop now. Is it coming up with a code if you leave it long enough? The series 11 is still ok but the oldest we repair.

[@liftrailphotographyinnz3992]

Just an idea Dan, have you ever thought about doing any videos on the earlier F&P Smart Drives? Phase 5 and older.

[@motrepairs]

I probably could when if I get time while we have one on hand, but due to the age of them and the lack of controllers we unfortunate have to advise people not to repair them so we don't often see them. Only differences really are lid switch/Out of Balance Switch.

[@Jeff-mz3cy]

Good tips, thanks. Found a small spring hanging off the left front suspension at the bottom of the rod, not sure where that goes? Also the bowl is slightly to the RHS side, is that a problem? Complaints of a noise during spin with towels loaded...? Out of balance maybe? Trying to help an elderly client. Thanks

[@motrepairs]

The bias spring clips the neck ring, the donut cover that sits on top of the bowl. It will pull bowl towards left or centre, if not enough then make sure the feet are level. Out of balance will usually mean it doesn't spin and beeps while flashing spin light. Without knowing what kind of noise its hard to help further, could be bearings, or drain pump squawking, ect.

[@Jeff-mz3cy]

@@motrepairs thanks 😊

[@user-yl8nt9pe9k]

Thanks for all the informative videos. I've got a small leak, put it up on blocks and can see water leaking from the drain pump. Maybe worn shaft.....it's over 20 years old. Ordered a new drain pump from F&P, cleaned all around the drain pump housing, installed it but still leaking from the new pump. No debris around the rubber gasket area, just having problems fixing the leak. Just wondering if you might have any suggestions?

[@motrepairs]

Maybe check the bolts on the pump locking plate are tight? You can also tap the three tabs that the pump locks into upwards, so it holds the pump tighter against the tub. Also make sure pump is square and all three locking tabs are holding it

[@user-yl8nt9pe9k]

@@motrepairs Tightened up the bolts with 3/8 socket, they were a bit loose, tightened half turn to three quarters turn on the 4 bolts. Didn't want to tighten too much as the bolts go into plastic housing. Installed the new drain pump and it was definitely tighter to turn it during installation so a much tighter seal. Didn't run a complete wash cycle but now there are no leaks. Will run a complete wash cycle tomorrow. Is there a function from the panel to run the pump only for draining (press power and some other button simultaneously)?

[@lukekneebone9831]

@@user-yl8nt9pe9k wash temp down, while holding press power and it'll give 2 quick beeps and then press regular button to turn pump on and off

[@davidmedley9652]

Thanks for another of your great videos. I have a f&p washsmart that started leaking this morning. What should i suspect first? The main seal?

[@motrepairs]

Could be main seal but usually bearings really noisy by the time it gets bad enough to see water. Could also be drain pump shaft seal, splashing over top from agitator, or an external hose. Easiest way is to put it up on a couple of blocks and watch under to see where it drips then follow upwards from there

[@ryderearlesroblox8620]

What model is it? Is it a wa55t56gw1 a wa70t60gw1 or a wa80t65gw1 (my favourite model)

[@davidmedley9652]

@@ryderearlesroblox8620 its a WA1068G1

[@ryderearlesroblox8620]

@@davidmedley9652 oh

[@davidmedley9652]

@@motrepairs found it, the white “rubber” boot that holds the inlet temp probe and connects to the water distribution head has split. Looks like its gone brittle. Thanks for your help

[@588bliss]

Hi from north canterbury. Looking to replace 19 year old mw 511, a 5.5kg machine we had from new. Wife wants another top loader, a bit bigger say 6.5 or 7kg. Heard the latest f&p top lodaers not so great these days. Interested to hear your opinions and recommendations as not sure to trust big retailers. Thanks, Brendan

[@motrepairs]

They have brought out a new series in the last couple of months, haven't had an opportunity to take one apart yet so cant say. Have you thought about a front loader? As long as you have a good solid floor and not coming in covered in cow muck they are usually a better option.

[@ErstwhileVirginia]

I love my ecosmart washer but the metal tub part has water sloshing inside the plastic part. What would your suggestion be?

[@motrepairs]

That is normal, the water is sealed in the rings to add weight and balance the drum during spin.

[@LoganT547]

Exactly as Dan said. These rings at the top and bottom of the bowl are intentionally filled with water. At the start of the spray rinse and spin cycles, the machine will do a 120RPM balance check before accelerating to 250RPM, and then the selected spin speed. This acceleration helps spread out the water in the rings due to the centrifugal forces, and works as a self-balancing measure. Some LG and Samsung models use metal balls instead for this. Basically, the water will act to fill in spaces where the bowl is unevenly loaded, creating a more uniform weight distribution around the whole bowl.

[@ErstwhileVirginia]

Thank you both. I was freaking out when I disassembled my washer and started cleaning it. I was worried there was a leak and obviously had concerns about mold formation if that were the case. I was very relieved to be able to continue my project without hesitation. 😊

[@playakoz]

I had to remove the pump to clean it and it seems water leaked into some compoenents on the bottom. The washer will no longer power at all. Should I wait and see if a dry washer will fix it or should I be ready for a new washer?

[@motrepairs]

If the controller is dead drying it out wont do anything, did it go bang when you turned it on? Make sure the pump is plugged in properly as in some models if the pump isn't plugged in it wont turn on at all.

[@pinkmagicali]

Mine has stopped working after 4 years. The lights are stuck on the last cycle it was on when it stopped. Any tips or info you can help with?

[@motrepairs]

It should reset when you turn it off and back on with the power button. If it is beeping it may be showing a fault code, in which case you can check my fault code video.

[@Matowix]

Hi Dan I have a 130 fault code. It will fill with water but wont agitate or spin. Pumps water out. is it the do a sensor some say u can just clean the contacts on it. I don't want to fork out $40 + for a sensor when it might be something else. Could 130 be the bearings. it's like a noisy motor it trys to spin and start spinning sometimes but then stops at full speed and flashes the 130 code.its an mw512

[@swhite6835]

Did you figure it out? Mine is doing the same thing.

[@Matowix]

@@swhite6835 yeah i cleaned the contacts and fault code gone. But now i have to replace pump which overheats. Unrelated I think. Another $45

[@wheresthegovernance4350]

Curious what it could be if the washer does not powerup when turned on?

[@motrepairs]

That will usually be a blown motor controller, but you need to check the other components before fitting a new module to make sure there isn't something that has caused it to blow.

[@michaeldaly3166]

hello Dan, wife is complaining that the Start/Pause button sometimes requires several attempts to actuate. It clicks/feels quite normal but perhaps the micro switch behind the plastic tab has worn...is this replaceable.? The decal is certainly worn and admittedly its a somewhat ancient GW 703... would be sad to have to lose it for this reason. We're in Melbourne, thanks for videos.

[@michaeldaly3166]

Update... successfully replaced this with the switch from the Favorites button, which we don't use. For anyone needing the same, its a 5mm2 Normally Open two-feet momentary micro switch, 9 mm tall including the body.

[@motrepairs]

Awesome, that’s exactly what I usually recommend if you are handy with a soldering iron

[@mikesam4951]

Hi from Sydney I need help please, I am new to your website and don't know how to post a project to get help. I have a Fisher and paykel top load washing machine model number: WL80T65CW2 / 93191-A AU. it's noisy only in maximum spin RPM, load not out of balance, I replaced the 4 shocks, 4 elastic rubber holding the bowl from corners and the two bearings with new seal But problem not solved😪 When I lift the bowl up it has Clearnce, it goes about 2cm up without any resistance! When I disassemble the spline drive it has only the two parts (2 &3) {the small gear and the top housing for it with 3 screws) showing in attached picture, is that clearance normal whe I lift the bowl up or may be someone disassembled it before me and missin a part(clutch spring or something?} Please help and guide me how I can fix it. Thanks a lot in advance. PS. When I use the mid spin speed it works normal without any noise. Mike

[@motrepairs]

Yes it is normal for the bowl to lift up a couple of cm, its how the bowl engages and disengages for swapping between spin and agitate, a very simple but smart system. Usually noise on spin could be bearing related, but without hearing the noise it is going to be very hard to help sorry. You may need to find a local appliance technician who knows Smart Drives to have a look/listed. Just replacing parts is not a cheap way to diagnose faults, as you are finding out!

[@Smitty2528]

@motrepairs I should have mentioned the model I have is the same as the one in this video.

[@mollygoheavier1709]

Should our drum have water in it when we shake it around ?

[@motrepairs]

Yes there is water in the counterbalance rings.

[@arsalahmaddiary6922]

My machine is jxt making sound beep beep and didn’t work can u help me

[@motrepairs]

Have a look at this video about fault codes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5PTfYGDgJeqZpo

[@tonystark11074]

A friend accidentally put two bathing suits thru with lots of shells and sand stuck in. Unit stopped somewhere in rinse cycle. No errors even in diag mode. Just a loud hum from the pump before I turned off the machine. I cleaned the pump from the bottom - nothing clogging it .. the rubber tubes had some shells so cleaned it and replaced pump and pump spins manually free but hums when trying a new cycle - time for a new pump? 😢

[@motrepairs]

If you follow my other video to take the pump off, it probably has sand etc jammed under the pump impeller

[@tonystark11074]

@@motrepairs sadly it was spinning perfectly after I took it off and rinsed it. I was gonna Mebbe take the tub out to see how much debris is stuck in the top but the pump does have a death hum to it 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@motrepairs]

@@tonystark11074 Follow this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqHMgpSqbamEmas to remove the pump, you wont be able to see as much from the top if its sand

[@tonystark11074]

@@motrepairs pump replaced and all is well. Needed cleaning from the top too before putting in the new pump. Used both videos to get the job done - thanks again!!! 🙏🏼

[@Smitty2528]

I got an error code 37. Cleaned the pump filter from the top as well as pulled it from underneath, cleaned the entire tub, etc. I retrieved a hair band and a safety pin. Then I ran it from the last mode, and it drained. When I put the tub and agitator back in and checked and ran a test load, it didn't drain. Then I pulled the tub and agitator back out, repeated the process, and it drained again. When I put it back together, it once again didn't drain. What could be the issue? The pump impeller spins, and it's actually been replaced within the last year, same with the control board. Is there a way to hard reset the washer? What might I be doing wrong?

[@elizabethmcandrew]

Mine is 20 years and still washes.

[@marknovak6228]

It's like a marketing video to buy any other brand except Fisher & Paykel. After 2 IW812 8kg fabric smart washers, I'm over it! Out of balance constantly when doing sheets.. annoying.

[@motrepairs]

Certainly not, other machines have things that wear out too, including suspension. If you are expecting your washing machine to never have anything wear out then you are going to be disappointed.

[@LoganT547]

These newer machines definitely aren't as well built though. I suspect they're using cheaper or lower-quality parts now, especially when it comes to suspension rods, drain pumps, and some power control chips. The older machines would last upwards of 20 years if you used them properly.

[@MrStringybark]

You mentioned Smart Drive 9 as the model. That doesn't help me one bit as F and P have an alphabetic, numeric code as their model number which is 10 figures long. Nowhere does it have a Model 9 or 10 etc description.

[@motrepairs]

FP has had 3 main systems of model numbers, but besides that they have "Series" and "Phases" which update every few years but not necessarily in step. When I say Smart Drive 9 I am referring to Phase 5, Series 9 machines, with 5 digit model numbers (usually) ending I a 9, from the early 2000's, usually not worth repairing now but we still see some. Currently FP have switched Top and Front loaders from a 10 digit model number to a 8 Digit, (which are called series 7 to make it more confusing) and they get updated much less often since they are a much more mature product now.

[@MrStringybark]

@@motrepairs Thank you for your very informative advice about SP's model numbering. I recently had to replace my 11-year-old FP washing machine but before I bought a new one my curiosity about their machines led me to your indepth video

[@arsalahmaddiary6922]

Hi