Reading Fault Codes and Diagnostics on Fisher Paykel Smart Drives.

[@markstuckey6225]

Thank you so much. We bought a control board for a GW609 and it didn't work; all it needed was a size reset. Thanks to you the machine is now running (perhaps for another 29 years).

[@chillednotstirred901]

Thank you so much for this video! You saved me from buying a whole new washing machine. I had the 00001001 fault and it would happen randomly and usually if I turned it off at the power point and tried the next day it would work, but the last few day it just beeping that error at me and I was at my wits end! Really great and informative video, thank you

[@RussiaMontgomery]

Thanks bro I just fixed my machine I had it for 14 years now.Love my fisher and paykel

[@DonaldNairn]

Really great video's, well done, the agitator has a fabric softener dispenser cap and some owners I have observed will put power in it also, but water does not get to it, so how does it dispense ????

[@motrepairs]

Yeah we often have problems of people putting powder in it. When the machine is spinning for rinse after the wash the fabric softener gets spun out of the cup, but sits inside the dispenser. When it stops spinning to fill for the rinse if flows down and out through the hole in the bottom.

[@stevedavey4466]

G’day awesome info you are sharing! Have checked out most of the info you have relating to my FP model WA80T65GW1 that seems to be giving a code 39 I have checked the tube and it has no obstruction The machine fills to high when set on low then tries to agitate but the agitator only moves back and forth about 40mm each way Any suggestions to what may be wrong 🤔 Cheers...... Steve

[@motrepairs]

If you take the tube off and block the lower end then blow in the top is there any air leaking? (never blow into the sensor) Shouldn't be able to blow at all, you could have a tiny hole worn, otherwise could be faulty sensor that is built into the motor controller. Mostly likely a hole in my experience so make sure to check the tube carefully before spending money on a controller.

[@allanpennington]

Hi Im in Turangi and have an MW513 with a 112 code second third and fourth lights on reading left to right? It’s my late Mums machine and I want to donate it to local charity store but want to make sure it’s working. Been in my garage since 2017. Was working fine back then so not sure why it would have a code now. Cheapest motor controller I can find is from F&P direct for $234. Not sure it’s worth fixing although new they are still $1199.

[@motrepairs]

Sounds like it hasn't had much use so it should still have plenty f life left in it. Sometimes you can find good second hand motor controllers on trademe.

[@allanpennington]

@@motrepairs Thanks, seems to be plenty of this model on trademe for $1 reserve and not working. I assume I need the series 9 controller?

[@allanpennington]

@@motrepairs Hi, I found a controller on TradeMe, its updated version 429213NAP which supersedes my 421297NAP. Its second hand with reserve $95 buy now $125. Should I check motor resistance before buying it? Supposed to be 39 ohms across two terminals. Is that what causes these faults as 112 error relates to currant reading. Is it usually a faulty controller which throws the fault or a problem with the motor? Thanks

[@Muckinhellx4]

Hi, great videos. Have a wa80t65gw1, unable to enter diag mode at all. It stopped before a drain cycle i belive. Comes up with flashing green light 4th from right and the remaining 3 lights lite to the right. Have alrrady checked pump and seems all good free and 93ohms. The spring front left was disconnected and now reattached. Nothing elsr seems amiss. Given bowl etc clean while all out. Thanks in advance.

[@motrepairs]

Not sure exactly which lights you are meaning, Using the code we talk about here is it code 15?

[@Muckinhellx4]

Hi, the wash progress cycle lights, as i said it wont go into diagnostic mode just flashes green 4th from right and the remaining 3 orange lights on to the right.

[@motrepairs]

@@Muckinhellx4 Would that be number 15 or am I misunderstanding the lights you are referring to? That isn't a valid code for that model.

[@Muckinhellx4]

I was literally replying to this, went out and plugged wm in after a week being disconnected from wall. Fired up had same valua 8 flashing and 421 steady on. Turned of amd tried diag mode and it went into it. Went through to faults amd nothing there. Ran hot cold manually for a bit. Powered of started a cycle all good. Cycled tbrough to valua 8 where it stopped and progressed through the cyxles till finish. Bout to try a full load again. Will keep posted.

[@Matowix]

have this fault code 130 . Could it also be bad bearings or the windings ? It spins sometimes (empty) but once up to speed it stops. When i spin the drum by hand it makes 2 thuds in the bottom but no bearing rumbling . Thanks

[@motrepairs]

If you turn the motor by hand the controller will try to brake it, eve when unplugged. If water is leaking through the bearings it will cause the RPS to corrode a lot quicker and and fitting a new sensor will only be a short term fix until it corrodes too.

[@Matowix]

@@motrepairs I cleaned up the contacts on the plug to the rps and the 3 stator contacts just to be sure. And it went through a whole cycle. Working ok. And didn't see any water leaking from seal & bearings etc. So many thanks. MUCH APPRECIATED FOR THE GUIDE AND YOHR REPLYS 😀😀

[@Matowix]

@@motrepairs just a follow up. It's been going ok but now it stops just before rinse cycle when still has one third left to drain of the main wash , it just pauses. I can re start it by power off and go back to thst stage of cycle. There is no fault code coming up. And it will stop just before final spin, will do small attempts at starting to spin . Again I can do the spin after power off for a bit and goto spin. As if it needed too cool down form or something. Also there is some dirt and lint at bottom of the bowel at the end of the cycle as of its coming up from somewhere in the machine. I can do a full cycle but have to power off and restart about twice per cycle. Any ideas. Thanks again.

[@motrepairs]

@@MatowixCheck the drain pump resistance (should be very close 32 ohms if you are in a 220-240v country), or when it stops unplug the power then touch the pump windings and make sure they aren't too hot to touch. If the pump is starting to fail then it has a safety overheat that will cut out until it cools down, the reset. If it is this and you carry on using it eventually the pump will burn out and can kill the control board.

[@msmissyyy]

Thank you soooo much, your video helped and thank goodness I didn't buy a new washing machine 🎉 code 9 is silly 😅

[@markstuckey6225]

Thanks!

[@kelzv8]

Got same machine but won't spin goes through the cycle but when it comes to spin it drains starts to wine up then stops? I'm in Nelson.

[@motrepairs]

Does it stop and beep with a fault code? you may need to leave it a few tries before it will give up and show the code. We have a Nelson based technician so can book you in to look at it if you want, give us a call.

[@meganconnor8269]

Hi Thank you could you tell me how do I reset the machine when it isn’t spinning ? I have a static red light on the spin cycle I’ve pulled the power for a few minutes then advanced the cycle to spin it spins monetarily sounds like it’s pumping out then stops it’s a slow washing process ! My machine is a GW 711 Thanks

[@motrepairs]

If you aren't getting any fault codes Its probably the pump not draining rather then a spinning problem. Pump is probably either partially blocked, or if its stopping it could be overheating. Have a look at my two Blocked pump videos, and check the resistance of your pump, should be close to 32-33 ohms.

[@robzehendner752]

i had to replace my control board on model WL42T26DW1 96198-A SER# UHG453237 from the USA how do i set the size setting

[@motrepairs]

I don't have info for the US models sorry, best to go back to the supplier who sold you the control board, usually they come with a sheet of paper telling you how for that series. Some of the earlier high efficiency washers didn't need size set, if you didn't get a error 9 when first powering on you may be ok.

[@arnoldrimmer1033]

Thanks for making such an informative video it was really helpful.

[@motrepairs]

You're Welcome!

[@uchihasarada880]

Hi mate just want to ask what is fault code 1 light on spin eco low water level it's a MW612nz or MKT cheers in advance

[@motrepairs]

Not enough info sorry, following what I talk about here what fault number would it be?

[@uchihasarada880]

@@motrepairs hi mate thanks for your response fault number 1 only red light on spin when I power on the washing machine but there is also lights on eco option and low water level cheers

[@motrepairs]

@@uchihasarada880 Fault one is a motor controller error but I've never seen it, so I think you would need to enter diagnostic mode to check what code is in the memory beofre replacing controller. Sounds like you have something else going on so would be better to get a technician to look at it I think.

[@uchihasarada880]

@@motrepairs hello mate may i know how can I enter to diagnostic mode to check may washing machine pls cheers? You are really helpful by the way I really appreciate it your help...

[@flowinsounds]

looking forward to the guide on modern ones

[@RiversRead]

Thanks very much for the video. I have a 49 code (read 48). Do you have a video about test resistance on the valves? Is it likely valves or control board ?

[@motrepairs]

If you don't know how to use a multimeter to test the valve its probably best you don't take the display off and get someone who knows what they are doing.

[@johncasor9698]

517766 model did not could not fine the dia data fault codes part... ??? where in the user manual did you find it ???

[@drinamrdja]

Can you tell me possibilities with code 112

[@motrepairs]

That is a motor current fault, however if it is one of the yellow controllers and happens even when the machine isn't running it usually is an internal fault with the controller not the motor.

[@sarahiyer4119]

my code is the long wash light so 128 + 2.. so 130 ... couldnt find your pdf?

[@motrepairs]

Thats a Rotor Position Sensor fault, the little PCB sensor that sits on the motor will be corroded or faulty.

[@Matowix]

@@motrepairs but it isn't always the rps with a 130 ? Can it also be the bearings bad and water leaking into stator etc. What should I first do for a 130. I also saw a guy say he had a 130 and it was a dirty wire going to the stator winding. And some people just clean the contacts on the rps which fixes the 130. Many Thanks mw512. Over 12 years old. Is an rps cheap on trade me etc.if i could just eliminate the bearings and motor I can know if it's worth fixing or trashing Cheers

[@motrepairs]

@@Matowix Yes if you have a bad connection to the motor or the wires plugged in the wrong way around you will also get a fault 130. Often the worse corrosion is on the plug so cleaning it may be enough, especially on the MW512 which has a partially sealed sensor.

[@Matowix]

@@motrepairs I cleaned up the contacts on the plug to the rps and the 3 stator contacts just to be sure. And it went through a whole cycle. Working ok. And didn't see any water leaking from seal & bearings etc. So many thanks. MUCH APPRECIATED FOR THE GUIDE AND YOHR REPLYS 😀😀

[@kerryking7003]

Great video(s). I have a MW511 (purchased mid 2004) and it is just starting to throw some errors. Can you help with a link to a PDF file of the under guide or fault codes manual please?

[@lukekneebone9831]

Your machine is a phase 6 type, www.manualslib.com/manual/820531/Fisher-And-Paykel-Phase-6-Series-11.html Here is the service manual that’ll give you the fault codes and the steps to resolve it. 😊

[@motrepairs]

If you google smart drive fault codes there are a few different manuals and documents floating around. There is a scan of the quick reference sheet here: www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardwasher/fisher--paykel/f-p---washer---smart-drive.pdf It doesn't have all the codes but the one Luke has linked to above does.

[@shaunsmith2906]

Hi Dan I am trying to locate the code PDF and can't locate one. Are you able to help

[@shaunsmith2906]

I just found it on someone else post.

[@motrepairs]

@@shaunsmith2906 For anyone else you can get the quick reference guide here: www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardwasher/fisher--paykel/f-p---washer---smart-drive.pdf

[@pogs9833]

Hi there, I followed your fault code guide for a friend with an MW512 - fault code 252, F&P website suggests Motor Controller Fault. Any advice about what component may be faulty?

[@motrepairs]

That is a motor controller fault, however a very uncommon one, so double check to make sure you are reading it correctly.

[@pogs9833]

Thank you very much for the reply! My friend showed me a video of it getting stuck near the end of the cycle making that sort of clunking sound trying to decide whether to drain. She turned it off, then on again and forwarded to end of cycle to drain the water and complete the draining and spinning. I removed the drum and checked for clogged pump. No clog and confirmed that the pump could drain very well when it does go. I followed the error code checking instructions to get lights 11111100. It seems to work out to 252. All I could find on the internet for 252 is faulty motor control unit. @@motrepairs

[@motrepairs]

Also its a motor bridge electronics fault, detected current when there should not be. Probably triac drivers or their resistors.

[@pogs9833]

Thanks for the additional info. I Googled F&P triac drivers and resistors and read a post about trying to repair these on an Oz site. I saw used motor control units on trademe but it says they have to be installed by a professional or no guarantee. Could take a punt or maybe time for my friend to buy a new washing machine. @@motrepairs

[@cheriviere4920]

I have a 106 code on my GWL10U2. Tipped the machine on its side and the pump is corroded and leaking. The code indicates a control or display module issue. The display still lights up, shows code and beeps, so does it still indicate an issue with one of those or might the pump fix that? Or won't know until I replace the pump? I really love my machine and would like to get it running again. Hopefully without having to get my control module refurbished.

[@motrepairs]

That is a really unusual code, don't know if I've ever seen it before sorry. It would be unrelated to the pump I would think unless the pump has burnt out and caused partial damage to the controller so the display cant talk to it, but chances of that are low I would think.

[@cheriviere4920]

@@motrepairs Thanks for your quick response. Wasn't sure how often you looked at posts. I'm going to keep trying to figure it out.

[@motrepairs]

@@cheriviere4920 Service manual suggests checking wiring harness, then replacing display, and if that doesn't fix it then replacing the motor controller.

[@cheriviere4920]

@@motrepairs I removed the pump and it definitely shows corrosion, and had been leaking.

[@cheriviere4920]

And if it is the pump, might it also still be wiring harness.. display.. control?

[@Kiwiwayne333]

Hi, I have fault 49 so got new valve unit from Steve's appliances & put in but still getting same fault come up. I checked wiring resistance & was 0 this is 2nd time replacing valve in 12 months thanks for info

[@motrepairs]

Hi, Sometimes when the valve fails it will damage the controller. If you have a known good valve and it is faulting as soon as powered on you will need to replace the controller unfortunately.

[@motrepairs]

Also If you are having valves fail quickly, what is your water pressure like, are you on town supply? There is sometimes a filter in the tap end of the hose that gets blocked meaning the valve has to stay on a lot longer to fill and it ages them quicker.

[@Kiwiwayne333]

@@motrepairs on tank water, thanks for former replies

[@Kiwiwayne333]

@@motrepairs Hi I got a new $215 control unit put it in & still getting same fault, would the new water solenoid got damaged prior new control unit

[@motrepairs]

@@Kiwiwayne333 If you check resistance both valves should be about 60 ohms (manual says 64 but usually always a little low)

[@gelo8614]

Model MW 511 no power when pressed. Just wondering if this machine have fuse?

[@motrepairs]

They have a couple of fuses soldered on the board, but 9 times out of 10 when they blow other components are also blown. Only exception is if your drain pump has low resistance/burnt out, that can blow the secondary fuse before the pump triac blows. Probably a good idea to make a video on where to look for blown components to see if worth fixing.

[@gelo8614]

Appreciated your kind assistance.

[@GeoffLogie]

Hi, I turned the machine on and heard a popping sound, now no lights come on at all and it won’t start. Is this the control board I need to replace or a fuse or some other issue.?. Thanks for doing these vids, very helpful.

[@motrepairs]

There is a fuse soldered on the control board but when that blows its usually because something else is shorted out. When you get the new control board there is a piece of paper with it listing the resistances of all components (motor, pump, valves, etc) that you need to check just in case its a failed pump or something. Otherwise it will just blow the new control board too.

[@GeoffLogie]

Cheers for the prompt response. I gather it is the pump which is the cause of the issue as this was the original fault that brought me to your KZbin channel. To replace the pump and the control board along with a new controls face plate comes to $400. Not sure the repair is the best solution given the cost of a new one. Thanks again.

[@alysachs460]

What about code 243? All but 4 and 8 are lit up. We hadn’t used it in about 8 months. Did around 10 loads without issue, now I can’t get through a spin cycle. GWL11

[@motrepairs]

That's a motor fault fault but an unusual one. If you haven't had it apart then most likely the Rotor Position Sensor, could also check the wiring to the motor hasn't been damaged.

[@tesisau123]

We have a F&P washing machine, model GW612. This week we switched it on and the power light flashed on and off and didn't turn on again. Had a guy come in to check it out and he said the control board needs to be replaced. Is it worth replacing, should we buy a new washing machine or should we get a second opinion?

[@motrepairs]

If its not turning on sounds like a controller, and the technician should have checked all components like pump and valves etc to make sure none of them have caused it to blow, so probably not much point getting a second opinion. Hopefully he also had a look over the machine at the bearings and suspension etc to give you an idea of the condition of the rest of the machine, if main seal or bearings are on their way out then it usually isn't worth doing a controller, but if everything else is in good condition then hopefully you would have a few years left in it with a new controller.

[@tesisau123]

@@motrepairs thank you 🙂 I don't think he checked any other party of the machine - just behind where the buttons are and says it needs replacing and it would be worth just buying a new machine. Will look into it more, thanks 👍🏾

[@motrepairs]

@@tesisau123 Did he give you an estimate to compare to price of new machines? I don't know where you are and how the structure their charging but I would think it would be about $400 total to replace a controller, so not cheap, but still cheaper then a new machine.

[@tesisau123]

@@motrepairs he quoted about $480 for the part +GST and labour. We're in Hawke's Bay. Thanks for getting back. Very helpful as always with your vids

[@servicetechnician218]

Thanks for the info shown :) I have a MW512, it seems to work well, but after the cycle is finished, the machine beeps every few minutes, even pressing the power button to off, it still beeps. Any idea what would be causing this? Thanks

[@motrepairs]

I don't think I've come across that before. Does it flash any lights when it beeps? Is it the constant repeated fault beeps or the rising tone? These machines are only meant to do one set of beeps at the end of cycle, so anything else after that should log a fault code.

[@servicetechnician218]

@@motrepairs Hi, I am testing the machine, set up with cold water input only. In regard to leds, after the cycle has completely finished the hot and cold leds are flashing the same rate as the led between rinse and spin. Thanks.

[@motrepairs]

@@servicetechnician218What codes do you get if you check as I have shown in this video? I would check both inlet solenoid resistances, should be about 60-65 ohms.

[@servicetechnician218]

@@motrepairs Thanks,I was able to obtain another control board and solenoids so swapped them all over, but the end spin cycle seems to be very long, what would cause that ? Thanks again.

[@motrepairs]

@@servicetechnician218 How long is it going for? If the final spin after all water drained takes longer then 8 minutes you may have a problem. I've had the complain several times, and every time its been a case of people paying attention when they didn't use to lol. Walk away and let it do its thing, if there is a problem it will stop and beep. If its slowing down then speeding up it could be a balance problem.

[@ktcee803]

when we plug our machine in, it made the normal beeps going up, then nothing. no buttons work now. can unplug from the wall. plug back in and the beeps going up happen and then no buttons work.

[@motrepairs]

Does the power button feel normal? On some the display PCB can become unclipped so the push button does not actually reach the button. Unplug the power, removed the lid, remove two screws at the top back and take off display. Check that display PCb is clipped into plastic housing correctly.

[@bradvincet1848]

I have to replace a leaky drain pump and possibly the RPS on a 13 year-old washing machine. Is it worth it, or should I just buy a new clothes washer? I'm not familiar with the reliability of a Fisher & Paykel.

[@motrepairs]

It really depends on the condition of the rest of the machine, if too many things start adding up then it can be cheaper to replace it. The other two things to check on a machine that age are if the suspension is worn (causes it to go out of balance easily) and if the main seal is leaking into the bearings and making a rumbling noise on spin.

[@bradvincet1848]

@@motrepairs I'm replacing it, the high spin cycle is too noisy for my liking. Everything is junk nowadays.

[@darrenlloyd2990]

I have f/p model mw 512 5.5kg keeps filling to top can you help please darren

[@lukekneebone9831]

You probably likely have a pressure tube problem or the water valves are stuck on.

[@darrenlloyd2990]

@@lukekneebone9831 thanks Luke l will check it out

[@galah4092]

I have a MW512 from 2009 washer I bought with the farm 8 years ago. It just started to throw a 49 error. Cold water solenoid. Investigating, both solenoids showed ~56 ohms, no obvious transistor shorts, but the 1.6A fuse was blown. Usually electronics dies to protect fuses, so I grabbed the washing machine from our last place from the shed and tried it. (A GW612) Wierdly it showed the same error code. I'm sre it worked before we moved here. Poked at it with a multimeter, again solenoids good, again the 1A fuse running the solanoid drive logic was blown. So I replaced it with a 2A automative blade fuse because I had one. Its working. Maybe these 1 or 1.6A fuses die of old age? Thanks heaps for the informative video!

[@motrepairs]

I haven't had the fuses just die of old age, but maybe check the pump resistance closely. The water valves are used as part of the DC HV power supply (even though they themselves are 24V, which is why the water valve codes are some of the few to come at power up rather then when cycle started) so a failing pump will also blow the fuse.

[@roberthall7117]

what happens... when you turn on machine... lights on short wash and spin light up and it beeps?

[@motrepairs]

That sounds like a fault 9 size set error, have you replaced the controller?

[@brindleyvanhaght755]

How do I reset my machine with code 49?

[@motrepairs]

You can't reset it, you need to fix the faulty first then it will clear on its own. For code 49 you need to check the resistance of the cold water valve straight after machine has faulted, it will either be valve open circuit, or controller (or sometimes both)

[@vinmon1234]

Mine stops on rince and when I tap the lid or open and closes it it starts again

[@motrepairs]

What model is it? If it is on of the models without the lid lock, it will have a magnetic lid switch. If these reed switch is starting to play it it may stop if it thinks the lid is open.

[@vinmon1234]

I found the problem the pump was leaking and was pausing on rinse cycle and now has damaged the main circuit board gw712 do you have a replacement

[@motrepairs]

@@vinmon1234 Several different boards for the model, would need exact model and product code. Would be better for you to contact a local repair company then you wont need to pay for shipping. Or send us an email with your details if you have no-one local

[@oggydoggy32]

I have the GWL15 model that is leaking while filling up

[@motrepairs]

Check the yellow rubber tube before the spray nozzle, if clothes come out of the top of the tub during spin they can wear it.

[@dougie6221]

Great thanks, i also have error code 112. I try a $90 replacement motor controller on ebay

[@rossschuback9113]

F&P Model WA80T65GW1 beeps but will not turn on to wash the clothes. Washed fine yesterday..... Will not wash today. It has been an excellent washing machine.

[@motrepairs]

When you say wont turn on you mean no lights? If its an error code there should be lights, if beeping and no lights you might want to check the connections on the harness between the display board and the controller, or you may need a new display, which isn't common.

[@catrionakynoch3643]

What does fault code 130 mean?

[@motrepairs]

130 is a rotor sensor fault, the little sensor board that is clipped onto the motor. Sometimes it can just be corrosion on the sensor board or the plug, or you may need a new sensor.

[@grantwells1389]

great video. very informative. I have what I think is a 112 code. trying to work out what it is.

[@motrepairs]

Sounds like you have a SD13, that is a motor over current fault, technically could be a short in the motor or winding but every time in my experience it has been a faulty controller.

[@MrWkirsten]

Hi @grantwells1389 I also have a 112. Did you find what your issue was?

[@polsanparavee88]

How can i get out of diagnostic mode

[@motrepairs]

Power off then back on with either power button of by turning it off at the wall

[@darrenlloyd2990]

I looked up fault code but different numbers every time l check

[@motrepairs]

That shouldn't be happening, are you going by the lights that are on when it stops or are you double checking what is the actual code in the memory?

[@jameskoptis4392]

Mine shows fault code 40, help!!??

[@motrepairs]

If you take the inner bowl out as shown in the first part of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqGtZpV6edV-oaM Then make sure the shaft is clean, and the clutch spline that is connected to the bowl just under the agitator doesn't have anything in it

[@cherylprasad1022]

My machine is F&P & rn after I plug the power back on, the machine makes a double beeping sound and doesn't turn on at all. To nervous to try your diagnostics. But also tried resetting to factory default by using the delay start. Don't think it made a difference. The machine just makes that beeping noise and that's it. Nothing.

[@motrepairs]

Have you had it apart recently? If the display harness isn't connected correctly then it will just give error beeps. If you haven't had it disconnected then it will probably be a faulty display or controller.

[@daphnesourris7303]

It shows on the window fault 37.

[@motrepairs]

That is the not draining fault. Either the pump is blocked or overheating. Have a look at my videos I have three on how to unblock your pump depending on which model you have and how you want to go about.

[@andrwwaugh]

You’re a fkn legend man ❤️

[@zulfibegg3329]

Error code 27?

[@motrepairs]

That code is only on the older 1990's machines, it is a Bowl Dis-engage fault, similar to a fault 40. Means the bowl isnt dropping down and locking onto the shaft for spin properly, Take the agitator and inner bowl out and check nothing in the clutch spline area, shaft is clean so bowl can slide up and down correctly. Also check water level sensing is correct.

[@CindyHunt-j8g]

No power light

[@dannyboyle5188]

The colour code is actually Red Blue Yellow

[@MrSUPLOVE]

Gained a subscriber ❤️

[@ColleenDonker-s7x]

Washsmart 7kg

[@SuperLuckao]

Just unplug it at wall and replug it. It resets

[@motrepairs]

Depending what the code is this can be a bad idea and end up blowing you controller. If for example the drain pump is overheating and you carry on resetting the pump can burn out and short the controller. The smart drives actually retry up to 8 times when they detect a "Fatal" (F code, not user warning) error, so by the time it does the fault code beeps its probably not something that can be fixed by just turning it off and on.

[@James-jm6vt]

Legend

[@mostafa13245]

I have a new sensor, which I didn’t use after I discovered it need a new motor and I bought new wash machine any one interested I will sell it with half price with the receipt