Complete DIY Mini Split Installation | New Mr Cool 4th Gen Unit

Mr Cool Mini Split (18,000 BTU) - amzlink.to/az0ns1rdeZW0F
Condenser Mounting Bracket - amzlink.to/az0QVPdLi6zA2
I will walk you through how I installed a Mr Cool 4th Generation (Energy Star) 18,000 BTU mini split. This project is approachable by many homeowners but there are a few things you need to avoid ensuring your project is a successful installation. Each part of the video is listed in sections below and will show up in the timeline to help you navigate as you watch. Best of luck on your project!
Sections
0:00 Installing A Mini Split Air Handler
4:10 Installing A Mini Split Outdoor Condenser
7:20 Installing Pre-Charged Mini Split Refrigerant Lines
10:00 How To Cleaning Install Mini Split Lines
12:03 Installing A Mini Split 240V Disconnect
14:18 Wiring A Mr Cool Outdoor Condenser Unit
15:20 Sub Panel Wiring For A Mini Split
16:37 Testing A Mini Split And Power Consumption
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[@tannerg440]

I wish I could like this video twice. I've watched it like 4 times, all on separate occasions and I know I'm going to watch it again when my unit comes. Great to-the-point explanation with perfectly clear instructions. Loved it.

[@user-sj9ru3et2z]

he also should have drilled his wall hole angled down to the outside to allow a down slop for the water to drain out better naturally....

[@bfrost7]

this man is doing god's work explaining this stuff. fixed a bunch of outlets and electrical wiring thanks to him. it's the small stuff but yea.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help!

[@powerguymark]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairsthanks for sharing. One suggestion and I'm not sure it's right because I'm not an expert but it sounds plausible. The coil should be underneath the unit rather than behind it. I guess having it coiled horizontally makes a difference with some type of lubricant in the line. Having it coiled vertically I guess the fluid can't make it back to the compressor.

[@powerguymark]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairslet me know what you find out because I'm fixing to install a bunch of mini splits myself.

[@azguitarzan]

@@powerguymark Someone did answer this question above. Good luck with thye install. I'm doing the same as soon as the unit gets here.

[@dantrav1927]

I don't even believe in god and know darn well this is not gods work.

[@OverSoft]

There's no refrigerant in the lines, they're just pulled to a vacuum, which you pierce when you connect the lines. All the refrigerant is in the unit, which is released when you open up the valves. "Precharged" is just not true, they're "prevacuumed". You could also just order any decent mini split from Daikin or Mitsubishi, get a $150 vacuum pump and do it properly yourself. You'll save yourself hundreds of dollars. The hardest part is not kinking the copper lines, but if you get a $50 tube bunder for AC lines, you'll save yourself a lot of hassle.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback. The wall vibration would get old fast 😂.

[@papabapyro]

Thanks for addressing that. I have a Daikin and will have to cut and flare the lines. I'm going to buy the vac pump kit, around $150 on Amazon. I have two units to do and was quoted $400 just to install the line set on one! Cheers

[@slipstreamvids7422]

One of the greatest features of a Mr Cool are the leak proof connectors. Cut and flared lines leak, period. These dont and thats gold for diy ers. Takes the skill and experience out of the equation.

[@OverSoft]

@@slipstreamvids7422 Just use Nylog on the connections and they won’t leak.

[@absolutely1337]

should 100% get a vacuum pump and trim the lines to minimum spec. any additional line outside will bleed off heat...

[@user-ok4pw9ow6z]

GREAT VIDEO!!! i was quoted $13,000 to install a mini split in my 850-square-foot house in Las Vegas. . i knew IMMEDIATELY he was a rip-off!!!

[@26longlongtime]

Well the confusing part is there are systems that are called mini-splits but its a whole house traditional AC unit with ducting, air handler and ect. Those are expensive

[@AltimaNEO]

$20,000 for my house for a 4 head install

[@724riff]

You could report ir give the company a negative review depending , if it's a very large and elaborate project then I understand but 850 sq foot system eekkkk . I wonder how many seniors and so on there ripping off , that's like the 80 quote someone gave me to change my 30 second job for the air filter on my vehicle

[@STho205]

Yep. I paid $6800 for a 5 zone manifold big Carrier (tall two fans) and three floor mount heads which are more expensive than the ugly over door wall hanger default. Installed. It was a raised wood floor crawl space victorian cottage 1888 build and the guys were there all day with perfect cut custom lines. I haven't had a single problem with the system...and happy to have gutted out the old underfloor ducts done in the 1970s now savaged by possums and racoons. The guys even yanked out much of the dead ducts for me and disposed of them. I had to do about half the remaining dead ducts. I've helped guys do premade simple systems and it isn't hard when you mount the unit next to panel service and the head is on the adjacent wall. However that would have been very hard on my old house as the lines snaked under the house like plumbing.

[@ncooty]

Another great, useful, well structured, clearly filmed video, Scott. Really well done. Thanks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet, thanks for the feedback and support 🙌

[@Stizzymack]

Nice work! I installed my 1st Mr. Cool in 2018, no issues!

[@festerofest4374]

I just completed the install of the same 18k unit. I also did the electrical myself thanks to YT and help from a local electrical supply house. I watched prob 20 YT videos before-hand... to the point I could walk through the install process in my sleep. One tip; the condensate drain hose from the air handler is very flimsy plastic material. I can't see how it would last over time with temperature changes. I replaced it (right at the 5/8" OD connector on the back of the air handler) with 5/8" ID reinforced PVC tubing. It took me two significant efforts contacting MrCool to properly identify the size of the connector. I wanted to have the replacement hose ready before I purchased the unit, as I did for all tools, parts and accessories. You mentioned the challenge of finding wall mount racks suitable for 32" wooden wall studs -- no kidding! I ended up going all stainless... the 2 vertical racks, as well as 6 - 3/8" hanger bolts (SS) I ordered online to mount the brackets to the sidewall. The rack is 'stood-off' from the siding with about a 1" space to allow for painting around it. To bridge the 32" space between the two vertical stainless mounting brackets, I got 2, 2x4 aluminum bar stock pieces to bridge between the brackets and mount the condenser to. And ALL SS hardware everywhere. All in, I spent over $170 in mounting rack hardware. Even though it's mounted on the exterior garage wall with all the space of a garage between the condenser and the house living space, it will vibrate the wall enough that it sounds like a truck is passing by on the street sometimes. I'm investigating different vibration isolation pads that might improve the situation. In this video the extra lineset coil is stored vertically, which contradicts the MrCool instructions. In multiple other YT videos HVAC people have commented this is bad, as it can lead to oil collecting in the lines and affect performance. They should be coiled horizontally. In my case the line set ran over my garage rafters and I was able to coil the extra horizontally there. The AC whip I bought could be cut to length (unlike some), as I wanted a clean installation without FEET of extra cable dangling around off the condenser for a sloppy look, but to each their own. Also, I used a 25 amp breaker, with 10/2 Romex, at the suggestion of others, including the people at the electrical supply house after showing them the units electrical specs. It was a very satisfying project to complete -- I'm very happy with it. My experiences with MrCool customer service have not been so great however when I had questions.... getting someone to respond takes a lot of patience and perseverance. I hope I don't have any issues with it as I feel I will be mostly on my own. As observation is that I don't understand how their warranty can even be legal. To get the full warranty they require you to purchase, TWICE A YEAR, their $70 maintenance kit, which is a MASSIVE RIP-OFF. You can get a much better quality, reusable evaporator enclosure bag on Amazon for $30. Who doesn't have pump sprayers (or buy a $25 Chapin), and buy more more reasonably-priced coil cleaner ($10-12/can). Or, do what many HVAC pros do and mix some Dawn with white vinegar to spray the coils with. So if I PROPERLY clean my unit twice a year for a FRACTION, and I mean FRACTION of what the MrCool kit costs ($700 for 5 years!), then I have no warranty. Nice.

[@r410a6]

Regarding the coiling of the line set,the only thing is that it’s too much…which would restrict the required amount of oil goin back to the compressor but the line set can be vertical with just a U shape behind the condenser and right into the connection.

[@nicola3060]

PVC for the drain pipe is smart. Mine is 3/4 years old and the flimsy tube has been a problem.

[@festerofest4374]

@@nicola3060 I think I got mine on Amazon. Reply here if you want me to look up the item and I will. But if it's the same unit as mine, the important thing is the 5/8" ID. It's a bit of an odd-ball size as far as PVC tubing goes so a hardware store may not have it.

[@RetiredPilot]

I have DYI several mini splits. I use a vacuum pump and the correct length lines to make a more professional instalation. Also the outside disconnect does not need to be fused..

[@joewenzel5142]

Excellent. Very thorough and easy to follow.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thx!

[@What1zTyme]

Great teacher, terrific information well presented!

[@ronhampton8591]

Great video, Scott! Please consider a follow-up video in which you add an Intermatic surge protector to the outside heat pump disconnect. Nearly all heat pump outdoor units are packed with circuit boards that can be thousands to replace with even a slight utility line surge, not to mention nearby lightning strikes. Adding one of these surge-protection units is about a 20-minute, 60 dollar project-way short money considering the protection you're adding. Of course, you may already have in-circuit-panel protection for the whole house -another possible video we'd love to see.

[@johnsont963]

yup replaced a circuit board already..... every one needs a surge protector....

[@tedc6694]

Bravely saying "about 2000 dollars" really helps ballpark costs. By now I think everyone knows to look at how old or recent a video is, and they know prices change. Thanks for the video

[@rogerk1710]

2 grand is a great bargain! For a garage that’s perfect. I’m seriously considering one for my garage. Always great videos!

[@Mike-lq3kg]

Great video I’m ready to install mine this weekend nice pointers.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Best of luck on the project!

[@afontana001]

It looks great! I put one in our back room (not on the home hvac). It works ok with heating, but really shines in the summer for cooling. I put ours on a concrete pad, but your wall mount came out really clean, especially with that extra line set coil.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, I like the concrete pads but wanted to give a wall bracket a shot since I hadn't used one in the past. Thanks for the feedback!

[@Russianmafia10]

One thing about the extra coiled line, the coils should be in the horizontal direction not vertical, this might have fluid sitting on the bottom of one of the loops.

[@burnair1608]

That way it doesn't slug the freon .

[@borshardsd]

Oil trap possibilities?

[@slipstreamvids7422]

The system is designed to provide enough velocity to force any refrigerant or oil back to the compressor without issue regardless of coiled lineset orientation.

[@jeromepark7002]

Now the lines are pre charged with nitrogen .... Just gets released into the atmosphere ... Keeps moisture out ...ready to connect.

[@user-yx4on8hx4w]

​@@jeromepark7002 Is that for all mini splits or just Mr Cool?

[@gregmize01]

will I ever do this? Maybe...naw. Did I watch the entire video? YES!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice! 😁

[@bw5792]

This is how you do a DIY video. Thank you.

[@nellosnook4454]

Thanks for this very helpful information! 👍

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet!

[@zacknoneofyourbusiness]

Another very well explained tutorial.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the support 👍

[@ipcress20]

Great video. In our house the wall mount bracket for the Mr Slim Mitsubishi' s did transmit a loud vibration to the interior as the variable fan speed ramped up and down. Very irritating. I solved it by ordering four silicone vibration isolating pads with threaded rods up and down. They were round, shaped like a squishy bell, and totally cured the noise issue.

[@festerofest4374]

I have the same issue. In the house it sounds like a truck is driving by the house, even with an entire garage between the condenser and the living space. Can you provide a link for the vibration pads please!!

[@SciaticaDrums]

I mounted my outside unit on four PVC pylons filled with concrete and bolted the unit into the pylons. They're two feet tall. It's NH so we could get a 2' snow storm and have in the past.

[@genemyersmyers6710]

Exactly what I've been looking for.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Great 🙌

[@juliemarsh134]

This video helps alot--thanks!

[@willtull]

Great video, thank you.

[@pedroorozco3598]

Muy bién explicado..muchas gracias.

[@suavephoy1136]

Thank you this explanation helped me a lot this is a good teaching 🙏

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet

[@stevewatne7006]

Fantastic! Thanks a ton!

[@mikespears4862]

In colder climates store excess coil flat on the ground, curl up in behind like shown could allow oil in the system to pool and freeze blocking gas flow doesn't take much.

[@johnspiecha275]

This is by far the best diy install, 100% explained !! Thanks !!

[@kookiedabear]

Great job with upgrading to SS fasteners! The only thing I would have done differently is place the disconnect box 1-2ft higher...out of the splash zone.

[@mrt5187]

Good point also raises the hole unit 18" to 24 up to keep the condenser clean.

[@r410a6]

Very good and practical installation.A few things could’ve been done before releasing the precharged system such as: vacuuming the line set with a vacuum pump,because moisture is in that line set.but otherwise from that not bad at all.

[@mikeynuzz]

Well done..congrats

[@projectswithjw]

Nice project! 👍👍

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks! 👍

[@knowledgeispower6192]

Love the content. Keep it up. I would suggest insulating that garage. It will keep the unit from constantly cycling, reduce the electrical bill, and increase the longevity of the mini split unit.

[@r410a6]

If the unit is cycling wouldn’t that means that the unit is larger than the space? Plus is the unit an Inverter?It as 4core 2.5 mm wire which inverters use…so if the garage is not insulated properly,the opposite would happen(the unit will run continuously)which would also ramp up the unit to maximum speed for both the condenser fan and the variable speed compressor.

[@knowledgeispower6192]

@r410a6 Yes, causing your electrical bill to increase. Not to mention the strain on your unit ensuring your local HVAC tec a new boat from all the repairs you're going to need. Bottom line is insulate the enclosed area.

[@user-ol5fm6er8h]

Excellent job, one suggestion would be to leak check prior to wrapping the unions with the supplied wrap

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Totally agree, I actually did just somehow left it out during the editing process of the video 🤦‍♂️

[@shmerd1]

Also, if you only get a 30" bracket like he got, you can mount one of the 90° angles brackets centered on a stud and than offset the hanging bracket so that it mounts across two studs where the other 90° brackets hangs.

[@danslickers8166]

Nice video. Another helpful tip is to run the line set, power, and drain down the wall on the inside when able like your setup would have been great. Looks much nicer and more professional stub out at the bottom next to the outside unit. Grace and Peace Slick

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

That would have been cleaner for sure and I considered it for this garage. I decided to go a more "traditional" route to try and align with what would be more common for the viewer. Thanks for the feedback 👊

[@festerofest4374]

100%. That's exactly what I did. The lineset/power cables go directly through the wall straight out to the condenser. For those who aren't working with an insulated, finished interior space, why wouldn't you do it that way??

[@kbpavao]

One thing I noticed with all these DIY videos of installing minisplits is that no one mentions that they should be cleaned periodically. In order to do so, room should be left under the minisplit for the drain bag when cleaning. This was a great video.

[@RW-to2fy]

Yeah but all hvac need some clean periodically

[@skipmyers9753]

Great video 📹

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thx Skip 👍

[@davidhankins5708]

Also, may want to checkbfor leaks with soap water on all supply line connections. Thanks

[@ralphdoid]

Everything looks great and you did an awesome job of explaining the whole install in simple terms. One thing to note however, is it's been in several NEC code cycles now, but you'll want to let people know that code requires a GFCI protected outdoor receptacle within reach of the disconnect and the outdoor condenser unit. It's required for servicing the unit.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good point, believe it or not we are still on 2014 🙂

[@sammax4245]

There is no GFCI receptacle for 220v

[@ralphdoid]

​@@sammax4245 No there isn't. The GFCI mentioned isn't about the 240V disconnect. Code asks for an 120V GFCI receptacle within the area of that 240V disconnect for service technicians to be able to use... whether it's a disconnect for a condenser, pool, hot tub, solar PV, etc. For example, an HVAC tech may need to pull a vacuum on the linesets of the condenser. His equipment needs to plug into a receptacle that is obviously GFCI protected.

[@ericanderson9004]

Not that I agree with it, but code says all condensers need to be on a gfci circuit. Apparently some kid climbed on to a condenser and grabbed a steel fence and died. In the knee jerk country we live in, they now require gfci’s. Yes gfci protected 120v receptical is required as well.

[@ralphdoid]

@@ericanderson9004 Whoa! That's a new one. Horrible! What sucks is the costs of these GFCI breakers are so crazy that it makes people cheat and try to avoid installing them, at the cost of human safety.

[@Brodmann312]

I would appreciate winter and summer updates on this project, to see how it actually performs in IL.

[@joblack420]

Just starting on Installation of a mrcool mini split

[@yttkuar]

Very good video and installation. In my area, we have trouble with what we call 'dirt dobbers'. These wasp like insects like to crawl into very small places like the condensate drain. On mine they did in a way that I did not see them till their mud plug closed off the drain and my overflow storage area inside the room began to leak badly. I had no idea it was plugged. I used a clothes hanger wire to unplug the pipe end. I then took a plastic bag and sliced open the bottom of the bag. I then tied the handle portion of the bag around the lower section of the drain so that the water would run out and they could not walk up the bag to the opening. End of problem. I change the bag each spring.

[@HoosierBuds]

Just put like a soft mesh screen on it

[@bradmaas6875]

I did one last year or two on my garage. I also did the wall bracket and wish I hadn't. The bracket is designed for use with concrete, which is why it's only 30" wide, and on wood framing will vibrate noise into the garage. Also, my garage was done to ADU standards, insulated and sheet rocked. To get the most out of your unit, insulation and some kind of wall covering will help. Is that shelf staying there? It will block some of the air flow. I've had mine going all winter and it hasn't missed a beat. I do get a bit of a hum form the outside unit mounted on the wall. Mine is a 12k 120 unit.

[@StacyForest738]

Good to know, thank you!

[@Brian-Burke]

This was a really impressive install. Nice work. Btw I'm surprised you don't have one of those dedicated washer wrenches for the metal box plugs.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I do, was just lazy to go get them out of the basement of the house 😂

[@Krunch2020]

I love it! No permits needed.

[@rednuhtorfa]

permits are needed.....but most cities dont care haha

[@ivancook1247]

Your supposed to , alot of places want you to have a disconnect inside also

[@curtw8827]

Nice to see the process. I believe Code requires a service receptacle within 25ft of the exterior equipment. I'd continue the drain pipe down to near the ground and perhaps install a gravel filled dry well.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah I should have called that out as it looks like 2020 NEC brought that in, we are still on 2014 😀

[@curtw8827]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs That requirement is probably also in your State Mechanical building Code.

[@onecrazywheel]

I've been an electrician for 22 years. They've required a 120v outlets within 25 feet of refrigeration outdoor equipment since at least 2002.

[@rcinfla9017]

Coiling excess lines vertically creates refrigerant oil return trap reducing oil return to compressor.

[@things_that_click]

The coil of excess lineset should be horizontal. You can have pooling of refrigerant. I am no pro, but I have installed a few of these and the instructions point this out.

[@gypsetsalon2585]

Great DIY video but a vacuum nitrogen test is a must its purges the line of impurities and checks for leaks. that over time damage the A/C. This requires test gauge and a vacuum I bought it and was worth it as you probably save $2000 plus by installing this yourself I also found some used equipment as others have done the same and sell the equipment when done leak test is a must i micro leak emptied my neighbors split over 2 months and cost $900 to repair and recharge.

[@neilcomparetto5282]

I’ve been a subscriber of yours for well over a year and I really appreciate your videos. You did a really good job with this one. However, I am a little bit concerned about the extra refrigerant lines being in the vertical position. I would prefer to see them horizontal. It will help with oil return to the compressor.

[@bertveldhuizen8699]

Mr.Cool actually recommends putting them vertical.

[@neilcomparetto5282]

@@bertveldhuizen8699 that goes against everything I’ve learned - so I checked. Page 27, bottom right: mrcool.com/wp-content/dox_repo/mc-diy-4-es-im-um-en-01.pdf

[@cynthiaboyle4349]

P.27 flat with ground@@bertveldhuizen8699

[@leolo2222]

I installed one of these a couple of years ago and have lost sleep thinking about leaving my lines vertical, but there was really no other choice given all the extra line I had. Even thought about calling in an HVAC company to remove the excess. That said, 2+ years later everything is still working great.

[@tbix1963]

Interesting video, nice clean installation. The only thing I might have done differently would have been to place the unit to the left of the dropped lines rather than to the right. Just my OCD talking here but it would of allowed the lines to be run in a very similar pattern without having to put a kink in them prior to hookup. Very trivial point but one that would need to have been fixed prior to charging the lines. That and your wire run to the box inside would have been shorter saving wire. The only other thing I might think about would to possibly hang the external unit higher on the wall to get it off the ground and away from possible harm that could come from children, pets, or others that may be in your backyard.

[@mrt5187]

Raise the external unit higher is a good point too also keep the condenser out of the dirt line on the Wall it will greatly help keep the cooling fins clean in the unit.

[@LordStevenStone]

Wished you showed how you wired it in the breaker box but it pretty self explanatory and will remember to use red tape to label in the future

[@luisotaviomc]

Here in Brazil it’s always custom loop, and condensers always come preloaded with gas for 15 feet of tubing. Actually most manufacturers require installers to use at least 15 feet, no matter how long you need, for dampening and flow reasons.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Oi Luis, Tudo Bem? Thanks for the feedback from Brazil. I have seen that most the new builds down there come with mini-split ready construction but looked like you have to purchase/install your own units in the living spaces or just bedrooms. Is that correct?

[@anthony6298]

Hi Scott...... Great video, thank you. I have one question. Since you have a shelf just below the air handler unit, would it be wise to build out the wall frame so the face of the unit is flush or "proud" of the shelf? So that the discharged air from the bottom of the unit does not come in contact with the shelf.

[@ronaldmcgivney3012]

Very good video. Clear and step by step. I am going to get the exact one this month. Can you estimate how much it will cost to use it for heating a month? I know there are variables,but a ball park estimate. Thanks

[@jmcguire56]

Wouldn't it be better to test out the system first before wrapping the connections and the refrigerant lines? Otherwise you might have to undo a lot of that work if there is a problem.

[@JonasVilander]

On the lineset, something folks should know is that you should never just tuck the lineset vertically behind the condenser like he's doing. If you have extra lineset like this, it should be coiled horizontal under it, if it isn't(ideally) cut to length. Reason being you are going to have the lubricant within the lines pool at the bottom vertical coil otherwise, and eventually the compressor is just going to wear prematurely. I had this beaten into me multiple times by HVAC techs while researching mini-splits before I had mine installed in my garage. PLEASE head this warning, especially if you want your warranty to hold up.

[@luisotaviomc]

In most installation manuals in have read that how they say you should do it, coiling the tubes.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I need to check the instructions again. I know the coil was called out but didn't see them specifically calling out horizontal. Either way, thanks for the feedback.

[@festerofest4374]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs It's mentioned in the install manual at the bottom of page 27, but they don't really point it out as clearly as they should! The image on page 32 would be an excellent place to speak to that as well, BUT THEY DON'T, so it's no wonder a lot of people miss that detail and make this mistake.

[@mattstark9144]

I’m planning an install for the single zone 12K model. It will be most convenient to have the air handler on the other side of the room. I’m trying to figure out if there are any bad things that come with running the lines down, but mostly 17ft horizontally (and around one corner). I’ve only seen people bring it perfectly vertical down the siding to the condenser with plenty of slack left. I’m worried that gravity will matter, but I’d need it to run across and not just down. Thanks for any insight.

[@user-gf2wx7ud3t]

I am installing same unit but a double unit. Can the drain be separated to run directly outside and the lines to the unit be run through the attic ? Thank You for your help and great video of the install process !

[@richardbedard1245]

My main concern has to do with the refrigerant used. It was expensive because it was hard to find. Learning this, I decided to hold off buying one of these units until I know more about the refrigerant. I realize the lines come precharged, but I always prepare for the worst.

[@drband8181]

Air handler is a bit close to that top shelf. You would get better air dispersion if it was mounted 18” + above the shelving. The movable louvers can disperse the air in a downward direction so heat would be more effective directed toward the floor. (Of course the opposite is true for cooling mode) Otherwise, looks like a great job!

[@joesutera6940]

A bit close is an understatement. Read the instructions there is a minimum dimension required above the floor, which is now a shelf. No reason not to move it 3' to the right

[@G-Diddy007]

I feel I could tackle this project now that Ive seen this video. One question is if I would need to run conduit on the inside exposed wall instead of the NM(non metallic) wire shown here. I know its drilled through the studs, but its exposed so thats why I am asking. So I know what supplies I need for this. Thanks for all your helpful videos!

[@GastonGalibois]

Nice installation, you covered all the important details about it. On the other hand, installing this unit in an uninsulated garage makes no sense to me.

[@HoosierBuds]

Trying to work inside a hot closed garage sucks. Anything to take the edge off. lol, you're not running any motors make sure roof vents are sealed

[@Trading_Nerd]

Great video! I am about to install a 36k unit with two indoor units

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice, best of luck!

[@festerofest4374]

I watched over 20 (maybe 30!) various YT videos for weeks before I even bought the unit. That enabled me to think through the whole process.... buy/collect all the parts and tools I would need, so I didn't run into any surprises. Then I did not rush anything, and the results were a very clean, professional install.

[@hansschweikert9153]

Dude! Hands down, that was one of THE BEST done clip I've ever seen. And I've seen a lot. Bravo. Two questions: My HVAC buddy who will help me on a weekend with this is suggesting a 24k system for my 24 x 36 pole barn that we Spray Foam Insulated with 2" on walls and 3" on ceiling. In your opinion, is 24k overkill? Guy is way smarter about this than me, but I'm just wondering. Or is bigger better? Secondly, he likes Mitsubishi, but it's almost twice the money as Mr. Cool, which I'm reading is a very good system. Money is not the biggest object, but the Mr. Cool seems like a much better VALUE. Can you weigh in? I don't mind spending the money if it's buying something far superior, but I'm not sure the Mitsu buys all that for the delta in price. Thx. Keep up the great work!

[@cfisher389]

Are these DIY units able to be tied into a smart thermostat (i.e., 24v connections)? I have a Reznor gas furnace in my 1,500 sq ft garage controlled via a Nest T-stat. Would like for them to be controlled by one t-stat, with the Mr Cool being stage 1 heat and the gas furnace being stage 2. Also, great instructional video.

[@borshardsd]

Just curious, first ty for the good content, second: mr cool has us connect everywhere and release the refrigerant into a system with atmosphere in it? I wonder if they have a nice filter drier meant to clean the gases?

[@JorgeTorres-gv6hm]

Nice vedeo bro

[@aaronleesnyder]

thanks for the video'; what gauge power whip did you use? and 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch?

[@finethreadsnmore]

Is the Bosch inverter system a good pick for high humidity climate areas like Florida where humidity control is a priority?

[@Pallidus_Rider]

Curious about the Froth-Pak on the shelf ...

[@azguitarzan]

Great video. I am now going this route for my mini split. However, you mentioned that the unit needed a 20 amp circuit, but the product specifications state it needs to be a 30 amp. Can you clarify why you only went with a 20amp circuit? I have a bunch of 12/2 romex and would love to run that, but I got concerned with the 30a specification on the product page. Again, I appreciate this video more than you know.

[@bmcken3]

Is it acceptable to use a standard romex connector to attach the communication wire to the Mr Cool panel cover or is there a more suitable exterior connector to use in this situation? I see you used a water tight connector between the disconnect and the unit (which is what I did as well) but used a standard romex connector (interior grade?) for the communication wire. Curious if this will allow moisture to enter the electrical panel inside the unit?

[@Marvin-fn7ks]

Looks like a lot more insulation in the ceiling and walls will save you a ton of $$$

[@rokustittsville2422]

Good job. Curious why you didn't mount the inside unit between the 2 shelf units instead of on top of the left one. Sure it will work down to -15 but the heat output at that temp will be so low that your space, unless super insulated, will eventually become too cold to stay in. It's kinda like advertised range of an electric car. They advertise like this in Canada too where it can get really cold in some parts. You will always need a supplemental heat source.

[@johnslaughter5475]

Great video, but I didn't hear a very crucial question answered. How low can the outside temperature be and this still be effective. Where I live in north Idaho temperatures can go below zero. Average daily range is around 20 degrees to 35 degrees. Seldom is the temperature average. Below average is much more the norm. We average 6' of snow and have seen as much as 15' in one winter.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I want to test it for myself this winter but Mr Cool claims the unit can still produce heat all the way down to -15F which seems a bit crazy.

[@johnslaughter5475]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs The next question, then, will be, how well will it heat a 2 car garage when the temp is hovering between 0 and 10 degrees. I'll look forward to your report come Spring.😊

[@scottz45]

I installed a two head Mr. Cool in my VT home about 18 months ago. It has been working great. The few days in summer that I need it it cools the home quickly and I did get to test the unit once in winter when it was -16 F outside. It produced heat without issue. My oil use is down tremendously and I am planning a DIY solar setup this some to save even more cash.

[@mrkngkhan]

Great video! How much does it typically cost to have these installed by a general contractor? And this is just one handler, how would you install additional handlers if that’s something I’m looking at? It looks easy enough for me to do but I’m hesitant with the other handler going to the opposite side of the garage and doesn’t have outdoor access. So most likely would need to run through the walls or attic

[@PileofBrass]

The indoor unit doesn't look parallel to the top sill plate of your wall. Looks like the left end droops a little. Great video and thank you.

[@Trainman0401]

Awesome! That’s a huge savings doing the work yourself. Question….What if you performed the install yourself and then called an HVAC guy to cut the lines and reconnect them for a cleaner job. I would think the total cost of the project would be considerably less than having the HVAC guy do it all. I am assuming the refrigerant can be extracted and reinstalled by the hvac guy. Just curious.

[@lugo2214]

Hello Love your videos Does the compressor vibration can be felt inside the building?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks so much. No vibration inside the garage, the rubber pads probably help dampen any vibrations.

[@danbaker7191]

Hi, I did a Mr. Cool DIY install a year ago and it went fine. However my inspector called me on two items. (1) The coils of extra cannot touch the ground (don't know why.) (2) You need safety caps on your main unit connection valves, not the regular caps the manufacturer supplies. Safety caps need a special tool to remove. This is North American standard, The reason is, some kids have been killed by removing the standard caps and sniffing the refrigerant. This is one more requirement written in blood, like many code requirements. Mr. Cool should know better but they consistently ignore this code requirement.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Huh, that is actually the first I have heard of safety caps. I appreciate you calling that out.

[@sammax4245]

For small unit like this one has less than 2 pounds of refrigerant doesn't require safety caps.

[@law4nyc]

What is the sq feet of the space being heated, cooled. Or should I ask length and width of floor than height from floor to ceing?

[@cr4zyw3ld3r]

I was led to believe that the lines that you attach are empty and that the refrigerant is entirely in the outdoor unit which is released through the lines when you open the high pressure valve. Which is also why they typically recommend that prior to opening the valve the system is pressure tested and vacuumed. I also did not realize that the indoor unit lines are nitrogen charged so when you take off the caps off you got a loud blast.

[@Pacificcityfishing]

Great job. My local installation guy wants 8000. No way

[@markusuttoob]

Sorry if I missed it in the video, but where/how did you check if there were any leaks in the refrigerant lines?

[@Farmercist1]

Just curious is it possible to run the lines inside the wall and then drill the hole closer to the bottom so the lines are hidden? I have a shed that is unfinished and thinking about getting a unit or two.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yes, especially in an unfinished space like I had for the detached garage. How are you going to insulate your shed, this is what I am thinking through now 🤔

[@festerofest4374]

That's what I did. Super-clean on the exterior this way.

[@brianrhodebeck6465]

I like your video, but my preference is trying not to get things on the house. Because of inspection purposes. And insurance But the video is nice. Gives you a heads up, thank you.

[@brucehaag7984]

Good video but from experience I will add , do NOT use electrical tape on line set drain bundle . Electrical tape tightens or constricts and has kinked drain lines in the past and caused leaks inside . Only use duct tape for bundling

[@mcastellanos657]

Can I make my pilot hole in the middle of the metal bracket and run my lines through the middle of the mini split, instead of the bottom corner ?

[@lad60606]

Could one place the "outside" hole further down the wall? I don't like those lines coming out of an exterior wall. I hope to be able to go into the wall behind the unit, run the lines behind the drywall and then out through an exterior hole closer to the ground.

[@JCWren]

It's interesting that they pre-charge the lines with Freon instead of a vacuum. The older systems have the charge stored in the compressor and you have to pull a vacuum on the lines and air handler then open the valves on the compressor. I actually prefer these because I don't like having all that excess line. Admittedly, I do have a vacuum and gauge set, so it's not a big deal.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, all the extra is definitely a trade off of these type of DIY systems.

[@QuinnTheVegan]

Do you have your EPA 608?

[@lwr413]

@@QuinnTheVeganwhy do you need that?

[@denismanace]

Hello. When you started this thing did it go in a defrost mode after about 8 minutes? Mine do that every morning I start it up , I don't run them all day and night long. I live in Northern California. But every morning if it's a bit colder it goes in a defrost after 8 minutes. The installer is telling me it's normal. I have a Daikin , one unit outside and three heads inside .

[@maxwellsmart3156]

Nicely done but I think I'm too type A not to torque the connections and check for leaks with some soapy water before I encased it all. Is Mr. Cool the only DIY ASHP available? You can DIY others with some extra tools but without a HVAC certification number you don't get a warranty.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I actually did the soapy leak test on the connectors and then somehow missed the video clips in the editing 🤦‍♂️. There are other options out and basically anything with "pre-charged" lines would be targetted at the DIY crowd.

[@AceBoy2099]

How good are the smaller 110 units? Or should I avoid them and stick with a 240 unit?

[@Paine137]

The 12/2 out of the house into the box: should that be UF instead on NM?

[@gustavorangel5027]

Cool But is 12-3 what you had to use for 240 just a heads up