Computer Power Supply Adapter

[@xFuaZe]

I like the USB and 12V plug outputs, didn't think of those. If you're going to draw the max rated power on a line, you'll want to have all leads of that voltage bound together. ATX supplies have more connectors (and you're even only using 1 wire of 1 connector, per voltage, wtf?), cut them off, and connect all the wires of the same voltage. Then use a higher gauge wire to run it to the "box". You should also connect the "POWER_OK" (purple?) cable to an LED and maybe even the "STANDBY_5V", so you have a visual indication of the device being powered and if the outputs are on/ok.

[@dm3ris]

About one wire thing I think the same xD

[@kylek29]

I made one of these a month back. Mine also included a power light and extension on the ATX 24pin to allow the PSU to be placed away. I'd also suggest adding a variable voltage set of ports. I have 2 v+ and 2 gnd configured to an LM317+5k Pot and the 12v. One set of ports is output, the other set serves to allow you to plug a multimeter in so you can get the exact voltage you want.

[@AndrewHoeveler]

Wow... didn't realize this was 9 years old until just now, but just as useful a project today! How would I go about adding a digital readout to the variable potentiometer?

[@thaGkillah]

finally make is back

[@skeetersaurus6249]

Oh, and for a 'project box', one of the greatest project boxes ever made for the old 'CPU power supply to lab power unit' project is the .50-caliber steel ammo can. Simply mark the box for the fan and AC power in cut-out relief, and jigsaw or dremel it out, then on one side, cut out a 2-inch hole (and cover with a computer fan shroud). Now, you have TONS of 'flat surface' on the other side for switches, plug-ins, selector switches, etc., and the lid handle is a great carry-handle for portability (all, while being able to store cables inside it, while on the go). This, of course, negates the need for the plastic hobby case (about the same price, anyway), and gives you something that will last forever!

[@DiB760]

This is a great idea because there are so many junked computers around today.

[@edss]

This video failed to mention there's a maximum current you can safely draw from each terminal, especially on the 3.3V rail and -12V rail, if you draw any current higher than the spec most PSUs won't cut off but blow / overheat components and kill the PSU. Always read the label and personally I would avoid using the -12V since the current you can draw from it is usually pretty low.

[@Xera1]

Any decent ATX PSU will have over current protection built in. If you're using a cheap junk PSU then be careful.

[@hellblazer275]

***** you do realize most of the newer power supply's under the atx spec don't require the -12v rail to have over like 1 amp lol and the +3.3 and+5v rails are pissweek where as the +12 rail is very strong like atleat 60% of the total out put on the psu

[@TheDutyPaid]

I would have used ring connectors and not spade, as spade connectors can fall off and cause a short.

[@MrMoonfishy]

I agree, i ring terminal makes better sense. But otherwise, a spring washer should help keep the spade inplace

[@commidore4499]

great minds think alike

[@Prence]

I'm going to do this. But I'm going to install everything into one box with a handle. I wonder if you could pull the top cover off the power supply and put all the connectors and switches on top of the power supply casing. Just so you didn't have to have a separate box for the connectors.

[@sac58999]

Yep. It's possible (I've done it). The one thing you may need to do (as I found out) is to desolder a bunch of the wires that would normally come out of the case in order to free up some space for the outputs/switches/etc. I also added pretty low amperage fuses to mine--power supplies can kick out a surprising amount of amperage and I'm not fond of being zapped.

[@meclucas]

I tried this once, and think it will depend on the kind of power supply you are using, some are very compact and it would be really difficult to fit everything. In my case it didn't worked, because the metal of which my power supply box was made was hard to drill and it became so ugly that I decided to go with a wooden box instead.

[@SpitZLoL]

this is awesome.. I HAVE TO TRY IT OUT

[@mrasrrcom111]

I've been meaning to build one of these for a long time.

[@grumich4084]

Very nice! I'm definitely gonna make one of these since I seem to have a bunch of PS's laying around. And as other's have said, I'll put it into one box to both make it more portable and "cleaner." Thanks for the idea! :)

[@lunhil1264]

I love this, just what I need and the price is right.

[@haz939]

This is a nice idea you can still use the power supply for a computer. Instead of cutting off all the wires and mounting the binding post inside the actual power supply case. I don't think you would be able to draw much current just using one wire. Many power supply's have more the 20A on the 12v rail you would probably melt something.

[@_P0tat07_]

Wow what a great idea Make.

[@gelfling6]

One more side note.. IF you notice one white wire, (Pin 18 on the 20-pin version, Pin 20 on the 24-pin version, but that is normally N.C. (No wire)), this is -5V One more voltage to take advantage of! I still would be careful, but yes, you can mix/match some of the connections.. +3.3 for +, -5V for - would be +8V, +5V as +, -5V as -, would be +10V , +3.3 as +, -12V as -, would be +15.3V, +5V as +, -12V as - would be +17V, and +12 as +, -12 as -, would be +24V (generic voltage for most HVAC systems, and charging voltage for most electric scooters.) I advise against mixing in reverse (-5 & -12, for example or any combination of + voltages.) as this will cause the switching circuitry to shut down. (Short condition.)

[@bernarddeham4787]

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for...

[@JohnStraussmusic]

wow great another project on the list

[@AMacProOwner]

Nice it looks a lot better than mine! I am too cheap to buy real one so I made one of these instead it has the voltage to that I need so it's okay! It was free!

[@superjoeybro]

Now I have a use for all my old pc power supply's

[@federowicze.s.1795]

thank you! this is the solution to my Junk!

[@Ziplock9000]

Apparently the convention is that the green rail actually needs to be pulled up to +5 STB.. It's only luck that it works without it.. Similar to how some PSUs work without a load.

[@Kethlar]

If this hasent already been said(not going to go through all of the posts) Instead of vent holes put a 12v 40mm fan(or smaller), and put it in the case for it you have all the voltages right there. So when the thing turns on, the fan will go... seems logical... and it will be quiet too it is a small tiny fan.

[@danamoose1234]

This is a great project!

[@bw905]

Thanks. Will have to try this soon.

[@4.0.4]

You guys seem kinda smart and I'm a novice but why attach a resistor to heat up doing nothing when an extra light source is always nice? An LED strip to the 12v would be a useful load. (Also the max current on this thing would be really bad with only one cable per color, surely!)

[@spoderman15]

just a matter of convenience, you may not want to have your led strip on when you are using your supply, or have to deal with moving it around where it won't bother your work. But of course if your led strip meets the minimum load, there's nothing wrong with using that. DIY kicks bruh

[@skeetersaurus6249]

Technically, a light bulb IS a resistor, it's just converting energy to light more than heat, where a resistor like shown is converting it solely to heat. It really is up to you - as long as you can get your impedance where you need it.

[@TranzystorTV]

Good idea. Do not need to convert power supply only for lab.

[@lazygenius123]

I have done similar for electronics projects but using the drive connectors rather than the motherboard connector. Less connections. :-)

[@droospoos]

awesom idea! gona try this soon!

[@TheJkilla11]

Would it be possible for you to list the components and where you acquired them from? if not at least the dimension of the project box?

[@tennicktenstyl]

then you can add little step up-down converter, yay! plus using SATA connector would be way smarter unless you really need that PS_ON signal.

[@tennicktenstyl]

and -12V rail is rated only for a fraction of a watt so I don't know why you would want to use it. but it's cool still.

[@evahle]

Excellent. Thanks!

[@buzzwerd8093]

Could a 12V fan provide enough load? Back in the late 80's I've used a floppy drive to provide the load. Even a simple low power mobo will do. A 10 ohm resistor seems like it'd have a high current loss.

[@MrHowardy]

I will TRY to make one myself :)

[@nickthijs5975]

why do you need -12 V

[@misterthekaitheman]

What are you doing here if you don't even know that..

[@nickthijs5975]

I only ask it

[@Craft4Cube]

nick thijs RS232 Serial Port

[@joblessalex]

+nick thijs op amps

[@despayeetboibruh7520]

+misterthekaitheman what the fuck is your problem idiot

[@jaxsonsminecraftclub]

Tell me where you got that fan from I need one for my broken desktop computer

[@pollydor07]

THANKS

[@SilentGamer-jt8dl]

Why don't you use the -12 and +12 to get an additional 24v supply at around 1 amp?

[@IrishSkruffles]

I was thinking about doing this a few months back but 450w of power for only 10 amps of 12V didn't seem.. economical to me (especially since I have a variable power supply for the smaller voltages). I've since got a heavy duty 12v transformer and put a big bridge rectifier on a heatsink. (All the stuff was scrap lying around, dunno what the transformer came out of)

[@serialkiller1971]

I noticed that this method don't use any molex, sata, pcie, floppy or eps connectors, will this method take advantage of the full amperage of the power supply despite that? Will a atx breakout board do the same thing as this method?

[@dimpshamedia5146]

hi....greate one here.... can i put the yellow red and orrange wires together.....please help

[@ZopteY]

Thanks!

[@M_J_Glide_22]

I want to add in a USB charger for my cellphone when I am working at my bench but I found low amperage from just one red wire...could I add 2 or 3 red wires to make more amps..wouldn't it charge faster or how about the purple wire that is also a constant 5V.

[@HappySlappyFace]

dont do it

[@gelfling6]

One key note, Not all supplies will start-up on their own.. Some require a load across the +5V to GND, to maintain the switching circuitry activity.. If your cooling fan refuses to spin when you jump the Green (PWR-On) wire to GND, two things to try.. jump it to +5VSB (Yes, I ran across a Laptop-Dock supply that used this, instead of to GND.,), #2, Place a 33-Ohm, 5W 'Sandblock' (ceramic block, wire-wound resistor, SSand/Epoxy filled.) across the +5V (Not the +5Vsb! ). If still inactive, slowly reduce the resistance to no lower than 10-Ohm, 10-Watt, But.. You'll notice this resistor will begin to get HOT!) I've noticed people will put a 12V Automotive bulb across the +5V, but I advise against it, as it still will get hot, and if inside the box, An enclosed source of high heat will cause, Yep! Melted box, or worse, FIRE. Same COULD happen with the sandbox resistor, so I would put it inside the supply, on the opposite side from the cooling fan, where it would get a constant flow of cooler air.

[@TheRealAshiboy]

what's the difference between +12V and -12V?

[@edss]

The potential relative to ground. +12V is 12 volts higher than ground, and -12V is 12 volts lower than ground. If you measure the potential between +12V and -12V you'll get 24V. However be careful of the current limit of your PSU, I killed one up by exceeding the maximum current of -12V rail, and since I've noticed -12V on most PSU would only do 0.5-1A.

[@TheRealAshiboy]

Edmond Siu why +12V and -12V why not just 12V

[@csongorkecskes8814]

12+12=24V

[@grumich4084]

Csongor Kecskés Ah ha! I wondered too why have separate 12V and -12V; never occurred to me to add them. Thanks.

[@bokaboi]

***** Great answer, I had wondered this too.

[@jcarter8195]

Are you still answering questions on this post? Thanks

[@knowitallasshole2064]

did't mea to looks up ut awesome video

[@DarylVanHumbeck]

What? No power LED?

[@jvon3885]

I know this is old but could this be done with any type of electronic power supply. Such as that in LCD or Plasma tv's? I have a tone of them and want to put them together to create a monster supply station where I can power up to 10 boards from one supply. Anyone.....

[@MrStevenBoyz]

You can use molex, more easier!

[@inayatilahi263]

hello how to install voltage and ampair metro in this

[@sammy-qd1oi]

What is negative 12

[@doglog18]

Would it be possible to power a smaller car amp this way...reliability?

[@jeffreyburrows8248]

yes' an easier solution would be an xbox power brick. output 12v check vidz

[@PolakeXD]

how i don't understand where are the power on wire ?? can i make this without this power button??? i have this 20-pin connector 0:20

[@ixamraxi]

The power on wire should be marked on the power supply chart/diabram, if not it is usually the only green wire in the middle of the connector (i think I remember some power supplies using purple, but I believe that was some time ago). You *could* make this without a power supply button by shorting the green wire to ground, but this will cause your power supply to stay on 24/7, which could cause premature failure. However, if you do set it up that way, there is generally a power supply switch on the back of the power supply that you could use instead of adding the power button on the terminal case.

[@PolakeXD]

Amra ok thx

[@Tech-Adept6106]

I would add fuses to mine

[@joshuah345]

j b weld is like epoxy

[@lmeza1983]

is it safe to connect electronics that run on batteries here (same voltage but current/amps ok? )?

[@MediocreGamingMovies]

Ampage/watts suppiled is determined by the device attached to the transformer. The transformer will attempted to supply the amps being drawn by the device attached.

[@flyhouseoftruth470]

That's not what I'm looking for. I need to make a old Thermaltake 430watt power supply work on a New Asus LGA 1150 motherboard. Thing is, The power supply has a 4 wire connector plug, and a 6 wire connector plug, where the motherboard only has a 8 wire plug. Also, the CD/DVD drive is SATA and the wires to that from the power supply are IDE. Can I find adapters, make them, or do I have to shell out $$s for a new power supply?

[@zakazakaboy344]

its a better solution to buy a new PSU, as far as I'm concerned you would really want to upgrade it as its old and maybe low in wattage along with having old conmectors

[@flyhouseoftruth470]

Zakax2Boy . . . . s15.zetaboards.com/The_Factor/forum/5032604/

[@zakazakaboy344]

That's nice :D 👌

[@flyhouseoftruth470]

Discussion Forum 4 Firearms s15.zetaboards.com/HandGunForum_net/index/

[@HappySlappyFace]

first ide is not power connector molex is what you are talking about

[@KingGeorge7]

If I add a usb connector in the +5v rail, can I charge my phone with it, I know it's like 36 amps which I think will fry my phone, do I add a usb circuit with a resistor or what

[@Mythricia1988]

The phone itself will limit the charging current - it doesn't matter what the "available" current is. It won't give more than the recieving device allows.

[@Donatellangelo]

Any tips on where to put some fuses? I think this design needs to adapt! :/

[@danijel124]

You dont need any fuses. If you make a short the atx powers off. Just turn it back on and youre good to go ;)

[@sebimoe]

+Donatellangelo I have inlined 10A fuses inline with all outputs (I have 0, 3v3, 5 and 12V output, without the negative rail broken out at all) - If you want to do it yourself, make sure to get slow blow fuses - or just rely on the PSU, they ususally are okay. I have taken apart two PSUs, both were using PS223 for protection, which looks alright from datasheets - it cuts the power off in case of any over/under current or voltage.

[@skreb9566]

Couldn't you use only one GND connection? why 4?

[@TheDutyPaid]

The ground is single and is called "common ground" but as you see it goes to each terminal as each of the voltage points need to be complete for a circuit to work.

[@_P0tat07_]

Just to make it easier to connect more than 1 device to an output

[@skreb9566]

P0tat0_craft yeah that makes sense, but it also depends on the power of the connected device, so in some cases you won't be able to connect more than one device :)

[@stevens37y]

Because of the high current: typically ~ 20-40A or more depends on the actual load.

[@skreb9566]

stevens37y Yes, but I doubt that this supply can load the 40 amps

[@alcoxy]

I have made this but my voltages are not very accurate. For example my +12V actually comes out at 12.58 on my multimeter and I am worried that will fry my 12V things i want to power. Any suggestions?

[@seanpain4]

use a resistor?

[@HappySlappyFace]

well usually they have a +- value of 1 volt so I think your ok

[@elliotgranstrom3296]

-12?

[@GrannygearKiller]

Is the output AC or DC?

[@Zetex2000]

DC, you can see him mesuring dc voltage with his crappy multimeter

[@seanpain4]

xXxViDeOxXxKK Very crappy

[@zeronecker5576]

Cheap PSUs will explode if not used correctly

[@tennicktenstyl]

that's cool.

[@Zanzubaa]

I would not use this as a bench PSU to power electronics projects. Without current control you could end up destroying alot of components and hard work.

[@werhoppp]

Он же в защиту уходить будет

[@ILUVSUEQ]

wheres the arduino

[@tgaming1002]

Tried it didn't work, used resistor specified, still didn't work

[@180doman]

+TGaming100 Resistor on 5V line is only to stabilise 12V output but PS can work without it. So probably u have messed up something with power lines or your PSU is just dead. You can check it by just connecting green cable output with any black cable and your PSU should start.

[@sebimoe]

+180doman "Resistor on 5V line is only to stabilise 12V output" - I got lost, can you explain?

[@tgaming1002]

I have since figured it out and it was just my fault but thanks for the help.

[@180doman]

Sebastian Grygiel Stabilność linii 12V zależy od obciążenia na linii 5V. Linia 5V musi być obciążona żeby napięcie na linii 12V było stabilne. Bez tego rezystora zasilacz się uruchomi ale napięcia na linii 12V będą "latać.

[@sebimoe]

180doman Ah, rozumiem o co ci chodziło. Z doświadczenia wiem że niestety nie zawsze to działa, może miałem pecha ale z dwóch zasilaczy których używałem, w jednym wszystkie linie były stabilne bez obciążenia a w drugim tylko obciążana linia się stabilizowała (reszta była max 10% out) :/

[@pietzeekoe]

Most people watching probably already have done this....

[@_P0tat07_]

I think most people who see this have actually modified the PSU case, this pretty much makes the PSU useless for a computer, the way make did it, you can simply unplug the adapter and use he PSU in a computer.

[@skeetersaurus6249]

While this video, by far, provides the simplest explanation of how to convert an ATX PU to a general lab power supply, I still don't get why absolutely NO ONE wants to use a simple 4-pole, 3-position (or 5-pole, 4-position, if you want 3.3v out too) cam switch to simplify the banana plug install?! I mean, wouldn't it be easier to spend the $7 for the switch, then be able to switch to the voltage out you desire? Not really sure why this simple improvement (along with a bit of output gauging) is so remiss in these kinds of videos.

[@carterjacobus7027]

I made it

[@ILordSpawnI]

seems like a lot of work for something you can buy for $17.95.

[@TheEarthboundHeroacw]

Where from? I actually want to know, I'm getting into soldering kits and need something to easily test them for cheap.

[@ILordSpawnI]

google arcade power supply. You usually get 5v, -5v, 12v, and some have 24v. Some come with a calibration pot. I use a power switch/ac filter/fuse combo with the power supply so it adds about 10 bucks.

[@senwayne2381]

Can any one advise me if i can power 1500watts Car Amp with 400watts of power supply (Without transistor) *PSU

[@TomcatSFX]

+Sen Wayne You will need at least 10% more electricity going into the amp, than it will output to the speakers, probably more. And PC-PSUs don't have all Watts on the 12V rail(s). You might just get 200 to 300W going to your speakers continously with your supply. If that is enough for your project, then you can do it. But if you turn the volume up too high, you might ruin the PSU.

[@senwayne2381]

+plasch Thanks it worked. Cheers

[@sebimoe]

+Sen Wayne Just to let you know, you are not getting 1500W of power going into your speakers. (and tbh I don't get people who want over a kilowatt of power pushed into car speakers - it would blow nearby windows if that the speakers would be any efficient)

[@pako2k]

Mexicoooooo

[@tgaming1002]

BULLSHIT! I used the 10W 10ohm resistor and it still wouldn't start

[@danijel124]

Have you connected the green wire to a black one???

[@tgaming1002]

I had figured it out since then and I just needed the resistor mentioned in the video but thanks for the advice

[@HappySlappyFace]

Dont USE THE USB PORT! !! IT OUTPUTS 30 AMP OR MORE THAT CAN MAKE UR PHONE KISS YOU BYE BYE!

[@hrvndrsngh]

HappySlappyFace thanks. BC I was thinking to power raspberry pi directly from power supply 😂

[@HappySlappyFace]

Harvinder Singh well I think its actually ok Its not the psu that gives 30amps and the rpi eats it all! But the rpi eats only max 0.5A so if u gave it 30A it will eat only 0.5A That what happens to phones but if u have faulty psu I recommand just buying a charger And for that psu Connect all colours cables together if u want max amps

[@hrvndrsngh]

HappySlappyFace yeah thts what I thought bfr . it's the device which eats amps . n rpi eats about 2.5amps

[@HappySlappyFace]

Harvinder Singh WHAT RPI CANT EAT MORE THAN .5A watch thekingofrandom video about banana pi vs orange pi

[@skeetersaurus6249]

Hate to break it to everyone, but a power supply is a power supply, and a load is a load. While you MUST (for sake of protecting a circuit) keep voltage on-par with what the circuit is designed for, amperage is incidental. The load will draw what the load desires, and no more. You can connect an RPi to a 5v 1000a power supply, and it will NOT hurt the RPi. HOWEVER, if something is damaged about the RPi (or any load), and it becomes able (for whatever reason) to draw a damaging amount of amps, if they are available, it will try to. THIS IS WHAT FUSES WERE MADE FOR! So you don't over-draw in a short circuit situation. I would recommend fusing your 5v USB plug, if you install it, with a 3.5a glass fuse. This will ensure that you do not over-draw to the point of circuit damage (I have an RPi that has drawn 3.11a several times during heavy 'crunching', so I fuse to 3.5a on purpose.

[@ZopteY]

Thanks!

[@DarylVanHumbeck]

What? No power LED?