Condensating Vents: Q&A with Bryan Orr

[@markwallace1251]

What a blessing, thanks for sharing this my friend.

[@elevatedsolutionsteamllc]

This is pure gold

[@DroneMTL]

Monitoring the indoor humidity with a 15$ hygrometer should be a good starting point, making sure the relative humidity stays below 60% in summer and 40% in winter.

[@Rhodesrepairllc]

I had a similar issue at a recent call and made a video on my KZbin about it. I found low static pressure and making the vents too cold so they were reaching dewpoint and condensating other companies have put everything on this and every vent in the house was condensating for two years. I raise the fan speed and by the next day everything was fixed and working great. That was my fixfor that situation

[@luke9129]

Good Morning Brian!!! Have an incredible day today!!

[@josephwilliams1500]

Been dealing with this issue at one of my facilities for a while. Doesn't help it's 1/2 mile from the ocean. Thanks for the information.

[@ZergZfTw]

Dropping the evaporator temperature as much as possible to get the supply dew point temp down and then adding a bit of reheat to lower the supply relative humidity is one option.

[@rayzerot]

So you just jerry-rigged a dehumidifier lol

[@ZergZfTw]

@@rayzerot A cooling coil followed by a reheat coil is a standard configuration for commercial or industrial air handling equipment. It's just that residential equipment manufacturers don't know how to build a proper air handler, apparently.

[@behanstunts1815]

Love your videos! Noticed the fan is spinning backwards at 8:15

[@hoopie1022]

Great video ! Thank you

[@MattJMT]

Great video!

[@GardenStateHockey]

I live in Florida and do not have an attic...Would register gaskets help? Any tips? Thank you

[@solankibharat8963]

Thanks for information

[@watchyoutube9553]

Up the fan speed

[@John-bx6ed]

How do you keep that attic drier with all the required roofing attic ventilation codes especially near coastal it’s seems to be a much worse scenario

[@boywhohadatiger]

I’d like to see a baby reheat slant coil get installed by manufacturers. It’d be very nice.

[@marty2958]

I have none of these condensate issues but live in central Florida, does running the air handler constantly have any benefits and just have outdoor unit cycle on and off

[@jw77019]

When you run the fan continuously, all of the moisture that has collected on the evaporator blows back into the air when the compressor is not engaged therefore the evaporator is not below the dewpoint any longer. Also any duct leakage or imbalance in pressure will bring in heat and humidity

[@marty2958]

@@jw77019 thank you

[@mattgruber3933]

I'm in 32169, 600 feet to the ocean. I use 2 ac central systems for the same rooms. One tiny system has on/off switch, no t-stat, runs 7am to 8 pm most of the summer. I turn on system #2 when it gets too hot. Grilles don't sweat. The 2 systems are not connected in any way,

[@mattgruber3933]

How about removing the grille? Get rid of the cold surface.

[@PigeonMayne]

too obvious, replacing it with a wood grill would be too smart

[@95thousandroses]

how about a low voltage heated grill? A grill covered in felt?

[@rayzerot]

Let's install a grille with replaceable desiccant. It's the only sensible thing to do

[@PigeonMayne]

@@95thousandroses lets just go the full 9 yards and make shag carpet grilles 😂

[@MessengerMX]

I think the blower wheel was spinning the wrong direction in the animation

[@Garth2011]

I would think that the evaporator removes much of the humidity/moisture from the living envelope. If its is working well, after a few minutes of running it would seem that any high moisture conditions would soon "dry up" as the system operates. Wet supply registers tells me the house is not sealed well from the exterior and/or attic. Also, an oversized system would likely fail to remove humidity long enough in between cycles?

[@rayzerot]

You're correct- oversized systems perform poorly at dehumidification

[@Garth2011]

@@rayzerot I was also thinking if the blower motor was wired to sping too slow, that could do it too.

[@melonz4011]

@@Garth2011lower blower speed lowers evaporator temperature increasing dehumidification. Inverse is true as well. Think of a unit with a fan motor not working. The coil eventually freezes because the suction temperature gets below 32°.

[@Garth2011]

@@melonz4011 Yes true but there are more than one factors going on with a slow blower. Volume of air gets less treatment.

[@redneckways1617]

Brian, I have several ideas for new tools and A/C component improvements…I’ve tried to get a couple major A/C supplier companies to get in contact with me by filling out their “tech invented application “ but will not completely describe any ideas and did not sign their NDA…instead I put “representative first” in place of the signature…neither had gotten back with me….to me a company should sign a NDA with me not the other way around…am I just being petty in my attempt to protect my ideas for my personal gain or is it legit?…I know that you know some inventors and why I am asking you

[@tobiaszkucharczyk8595]

33% humidity max , Any more will cause condensation

[@95thousandroses]

my skin started cracking just reading this

[@rayzerot]

​@@95thousandrosesI can't tell if he's being serious...

[@brnmcc01]

That's a good rule of thumb for winter season. But even 33% is too high if the outside air temps fall below 20F. 20% indoor RH is a better target at 0F or -18C outdoor temps. For the summer, a good target is 50% RH. People tend to be the most comfortable at roughly 50% RH and 21C (70F) indoor air temps, which gives a dew point of roughly 58-60F.

[@calholli]

TLDR .. get a dehumidifier

[@alias177]

they think the supply air can never be too cold

[@JesseDoesHVAC]

Over sized system

[@bhutehole]

Add fresh air

[@brnmcc01]

In order to not waste energy, and defeat the purpose of having a high SEER A/C system though, an ERV system is needed. Basically it's a small heat exchanger than exchanges heat between stale air exhaust and incoming fresh air.