Connect a Victron MPPT to a Lynx Distributor

See how to connect a Victron Energy MPPT to a Lynx Distributor and connect wires from a solar disconnect (where your PV (solar panel) input is coming from) into the MPPT.
**Note for the Multiplus-II case ground: ABYC recommends that the case ground is no smaller than 1x size down from main current carrying conductor. So if using 4/0 for main battery cable, per ABYC should have 2/0 for case ground (not 6 AWG as seen in the video).

[@MichielvanderHorst]

I would have never combined a red colored wire to the minus (massa) of the Lynx. Always stick to the same colour is safer. What if in the future a mechanic takes it apart and than it as really easy to make a mistake in putting them back in the wrong bay (minus cable with red color) Anyway, that’s the way I work in Europe. Maybe this sounds stupid for USA mechanics. Love your video style, greetings

[@VanTransitions]

hey, and thanks! I understand what you are saying, my attention to detail usually agrees. Red is +, Black is -, same in USA. Good eye, the short piece of 2 AWG for the combined ground of the two MPPT is red. I did put black heat shrink on it to help distinguish it and I hope it is otherwise clear it is DC neg/ground based on what it is connected to. I have another use for 2 AWG red on a positive connection related to connecting the Ford Transit CCP to the 80A breaker for the 2 Orion-Tr units, so for 8" of wire, the only piece of 2 AWG black I would need, I didn't want to buy 2 colors and have unused black wire laying around.

[@JeffreyFay]

Tip for anyone watching: if you use a 6 AWG with ferrule, make sure your ferrule crimper is square, not hex. Hex will not fit.

[@VanTransitions]

great tip!

[@snoobler]

Better to not use ferrules at all when manual requires fine strand wire.

[@JeffreyFay]

​@@snooblergenerally I would have to agree. I will say that the square crimp ferrel wire is a very snug fit and the contact patch is excellent.

[@robertmuckle2985]

Never mix your +/- color codes...this will bite you in the arse one day. If you must...spiral electricians tape on your +red just to remind yourself...temporary or not!

[@VanTransitions]

Overall sound advice. As I explained, I had the wire so I used it with black heat shrink - and it's my system ultimately, so I know and that's what matters. If it were building this for someone else, yes, stick with the correct color at all times.

[@bradkiefer777]

Why did you need two distributors? Curious. Nice video.

[@VanTransitions]

Thanks. I need 2 for the number of items I am connecting to the system. You can get a solid idea on what all of them are in this video series.

[@IamMotorHomeless]

Thanks for sharing, I am just starting. my Multiplus-II 48/5000 should arrive next week, and it really helps to see it all layed out like that. as I don't have the space to do that here.

[@VanTransitions]

Have fun!

[@anthonymiller3933]

What size wire is the PV wire? And where did you get the ring terminals for it? I will be running 10awg but can't find ring terminals

[@VanTransitions]

The wire from the solar disconnect to the MPPT units is 10/2 ancor marine wire. There are no ring terminals used for the 10awg wires on either side of the solar disconnect.

[@UKsystems]

On the negative connection put the crimp from the lynx distributor above it or if the equipment negative has high current it will melt.

[@VanTransitions]

Hi. Can you be more specific about a time stamp and what you are suggesting? I'm not following you here. thanks.

[@UKsystems]

3:11 ish@@VanTransitions

[@VanTransitions]

@@UKsystemsGood catch. I agree, I missed that. It is best to have the 2 AWG LUG against the BUS BAR of the Lynx Distributor, then the ring terminal on top before the washers and nut. Thank you.

[@jws3925]

I know 6 ga will work fine but isn't that a bit of overkill for a max of 30A? Or is you controller a long distance from the Lynx Distributor? I have the same set up and the controller is only 2.5ft from the Lynx and according to the DC wire charts I am ok with 10ga. for 30A at that distance. Never any problem with over wiring but just wondering why you went with gauge wire you did.

[@VanTransitions]

My MPPT is not far from the Lynx D at all, less than 2.5 ft. It was more for efficiency/upgrade capacity I suppose, plus a 6awg with ferrule fits perfectly in the slot. With my 2 solar arrays, 1 pair of 100W and 1 pair of 200W, and 2x MPPT of 100/30 I don't suppose I "need" 6awg.

[@scottvallie4495]

Are you powering a rear air conditioner with that battery system? if so how many amp draw is the AC? for our setup auxiliary batteries will power a rear AC system, 12 Volt Refrigerator and one 110 outlet for laptop and that's about it. Ford tells me one of our packages we selected will come with a 110 outlet however they don't tell me where it's going to be we definitely want it up front. so with that information all the people I've talked to also tell me four batteries, preferably 4 solar panels, alternator connections and shore power just seems like overkill to me?

[@VanTransitions]

I will have a Dometic RTX 2000 AC in the furthest rear bay on the roof of my extended Transit. I have fused according to their documentation: an 80A megafuse in my Lynx Distributor. I will also power everything else with this Victron system (no propane). Eventually my build and videos will cover this in more detail. In my 2021, the Ford inverter is under the passenger seat, max 400W. Battery power isn't determined by the number of batteries, but the Ah (Amp hours). If you are doing 12V AC, you probably need 400Ah and 400W solar minimum, but you need to calculate your own electric needs. There are spreadsheets on the internet. Why not have shore power available or DC to DC charging while driving? Next video on Sunday speaks to the Victron Orion-Tr. What if it rains for 3 straight days? Options.

[@scottvallie4495]

@@VanTransitions Our van use we'll be pet transportation so yes it alternator will be supplying power to the batteries to power the rear air conditioning, The only time solar will come into play will be as a backup for air conditioning if we break down As for shore connection my intended use is to plug in at home prior to a trip so that the refrigerator would be cold for pet insulin or other items.

[@VanTransitions]

I presume you have researched the Transit CCP, customer connection point?

[@scottvallie4495]

@@VanTransitions yes I opted for the lines install with no controller, my first thought was to go with Webasto system but I lose the backup of breakdown AC.. The whole project is very flexible at this point since were a year out from receiving the van. The first couple of Builds I did on Fords page I was just going to buy a passenger van with seat delete, that was until I saw the measurements with Fords rear ac, it just took up to much room.

[@VanTransitions]

You can't run the rear AC from Ford without the vehicle running. Definitely take this time you have to research research research.

[@bigredinfinity3126]

why the red cable for ground ?

[@VanTransitions]

If I didn't explain it anywhere else, I didn't want to buy black for this one little spot in the build so I bent the rules a bit for myself b/c the copper inside is the same, and I used black shrink at the lugs to identify the neg. I don't recommend it necessarily, but it did save me some money and when traced by an expert, easily identified as on the negative with maybe a facepalm for the color.

[@bigredinfinity3126]

@@VanTransitions sorry i have satellite data so it lowers the thing to 360p and doesn't show many comments i thought you were maybe wiring in series

[@edwyn_pyron]

Thank you for these videos. They have helped me very much.

[@VanTransitions]

Glad you like them!

[@marcksavoievoyer6424]

Nice video! Just wondering with that Lynx distributor and having a minimum fuse size (Mega) at 60A. This is quite big for the Victron 100/30. I was planning in doing the same but can't wrap my head around putting a 60A fuse on a device that is 30A. What's your thought on this ?

[@VanTransitions]

Thanks. I've been going back and forth on this as well. Another channel Explorist.life has some drawings with 60A. I have currently changed to 40A in place and on my drawing and no complaints from my Victron Dealer. And the spec sheet clearly says the max charge current is 30A, which makes 40A seem a lot more reasonable and it will still protect 6 AWG wire as well. I won't change my wire gauge here.

[@marcksavoievoyer6424]

@@VanTransitions Yeah, Explorist.life just sent me his generic link to buy the parts. I did ask the logic behind the 60A fuse though... I'm on the same side as you though: The fuse should be there to protect the wire (awg6 will be fine) AND the device. The device part, not sure the logic behind putting the 60A fuse... Where did you find the 40A mega fuse? :)

[@VanTransitions]

I was able to find all my mega fuses on Amazon. Here is the 40A a.co/d/hLAQkG2

[@mattwalker534]

I think 40A is a better fit, as suggested below, but if you could not source that part for whatever reason, increase the wire gauge to match the 60A fuse (yes 6awg should be fine)

[@marcksavoievoyer6424]

@@mattwalker534 this is exactly what I did in the end! Awg6 and a 60A fuse. 👍🏻

[@johnlarkins5664]

is that Romex that is connected to your MPPT?

[@VanTransitions]

No. It is Ancor Marine 10/2 wire.

[@boldibbb]

U cant use romex?

[@VanTransitions]

Romex is not recommended for van/RV installations. You want stranded wire.

[@Ramjet7777]

Victron states to not use ferrules on their MPPT's!

[@VanTransitions]

Which manual and page please?

[@Ramjet7777]

@VanTransitions I don't think I can paste a link here. I found it in a victron community forum. It was a reply from victron stating not to use ferrules on mppt's. Google search and you should find it, it's even referenced in the diysolar forum also.