Victron Off Grid System for Van Life (Beginner Friendly) | Mercedes Sprinter Van Conversion #25

[@MattsVan]

Contrary to popular belief, the Van Conversion is not dead! I'm just struggling to find the time and money necessary to work on it. But this video represents a huge milestone that I've been wanting to complete for some time. I hope you get some use out of it! Many thanks to NOHMA.com for sponsoring this video. Links to their products, kits and services can be found in the description.

[@wb5mgr]

I can say having watched dozens of videos similar to this on KZbin… This is by far the cleanest wired Victron system that I have seen yet. Kudos to you for doing what other people are evidently not able to do and putting everything together with obvious care and neatness.

[@gonegliding2966]

As an Electronics Engineer, I'd say that's a good high level explanation of this system. Clear and concise. There is a lot of power involved that can do damage in a very short period of time. As Matt points out, contact someone in the know if you don't understand electrics. Thanks for sharing!

[@michealplater9007]

Voltage ripple is stopped when the cables are the same length?

[@markpritchard3707]

Explained in it’s simplest form, even someone who has very limited knowledge in electrical matters would be greatly educated and enlightened after watching this video, Well done, brilliant 😊

[@charlesfulcrum3170]

Great video and total respect for crediting Greg Virgo and his series of videos

[@brentmanning]

I'd only add one additional thing. A super or ultra capacitor to the busbar. This will extend the life of your battery and assist with any large start-up current draws from pumps or fridges..

[@PhilChern]

Well this is a great video! Wish this video released last month haha! My system looks very similar. I just bought all my victron components 3 weeks ago, and bought batteries 3 days ago. I did have the victron batteries spec'd out first but couldnt justify the price of them so went with RFK batteries (2x 300ah) after a bunch of research. I would recommend also getting Orion XS 50A as tests showed that it is more efficient, doesn't heat up as much, smaller in size, and you can charge quicker. I skimmed through the video but will watch it in full to make sure I didn't miss anything.

[@mikefinkelstein7433]

Thank you! I am wiring my off-grid cottage and your explanation on the system has been very helpful! It is very clear and well explained!

[@SR-yv4ep]

Connecting bigger loads to the inverter side of the MultiPlus-II allows you to use their "PowerAssist" function. It allows you to limit the current taken from shore power and supply the rest from your battery. This can be useful if shore power can't supply enough, as you do quite often see on camping sites. Brew your coffee or tea with battery support and recharge it while you enjoy your beverage.

[@MW-fh8xh]

Extremely well done. Very helpful would be if you could present the tools and parts you used for preparing the cables

[@MarkChivers-z1u]

Finally, an installation which has an AC breaker /fuse box/consumer unit in metal enclosures from the shore power/hook up AND from the inverter.

[@pkl88858]

GREAT video, but .... We've gone 3 summers aound the US with a propane stove, 2 wet cel Gp31 batteries, 200 w solar, Renogy DCC50s, Isotherm 130 AC/DC Refrigerator with Freezer, 200W cigarette lighter inverter, and a 12V water heater. IF we decide we need a toaster or coffee maker we'll add a 2000W Renogy inverter for $280.00. It's not for everyone but if your budget is tight electrics is where to save.

[@randybecker7339]

Great, albeit very intimidating explanation. I understand why you've left out some information so I will re-watch it several times to learn more. Many thanks and hopefully your time/money issue improves soon so we get the next video soon. Thanks again for doing this!

[@rajenwilliams]

Great high- level explanatory video...well done!

[@SimonWad]

So for the project I'm working on, I found a UK company - Fogstar - just received one of their big batteries into my work - 560Ah, built-in BMS and battery heater, and plugs into the Cerbo via VE CAN and/or BMS CAN

[@derekrobertson1548]

Brilliant explanation matt, found your breakdown and explanation very easy to follow and understand making a very intimidating diagram easier to understand..

[@Tangotop]

great video with good advice and direction to other sources. One thing, people will try and copy this (it the internet). Thought I should add in here the Solar MCB, should be a DC MCB and not a normal house AC MCB, as Matt said seek advice, and an AC one won't work the same.

[@MattsVan]

Yep good point! This nearly tripped me up too.

[@truth3358]

Have ye had your van put onto a weighbridge as the payload is XLWB is 1124 kg ? DVSA are the people to worry about if you are . Great video being a long-distance lorry driver away from home months at a time living in the top of the range truck. Having all the facilities inside my truck. Apart from the obvious I think in this video it is a bit too much but I will say very well explained. You sound more clued up then your letting on

[@Jim_Kay.]

Just when I was feeling confident in my abilities to wing my way through the electrics...

[@Jim_Kay.]

That being said.. It is a sponsored post, so, of course they're gonna add a bit more spice to it.

[@negueba235689]

DC-DC 12-12-30 4.1. General • Mount vertically on a non-flammable surface, with the power terminals facing downwards. Observe a minimum clearance of 10 cm under and above the product for optimal cooling. But your video is good. :)

[@joecox7796]

Really good video, well explained and very useful

[@stan1928]

Great video. Everybody says the same. I agree. I have been following your woodwork for several years. It´s just one thing. Maybe i am too old, but. Matt you have too breath. You might end up whit one of my friends at work. Be Cool, MD, Stan in Sweden

[@colinday9117]

I had a rats nest of different wires coming off my battery. I tidied this up so so a single cable from the battery terminals to a bus bar via an isolator. This weekend I actually put the positive from the solar controller and the smart shunt back onto the battery. So I ca isolate the system but keep the solar charging and. The power to the smart shunt.

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Great job! Nice to see the project is moving ahead. Electrics are serious business, you can easily cause a lot of issues without realizing it.

[@tom314]

Nicely done, it's good seeing the van coming along :) It should be ready for when you retire :P

[@HybridBattery]

Your Truma could have been powered off the AC-out 2 connectors on the Multiplus. It is powered directly from the AC input and disconnects when shore power is unplugged. I suppose you still would have needed a fuse/breaaker/whatever you call them, so it would be a wash.

[@TheWickerShireProject]

Well illustrated. Love your system. Ultra clean install.

[@bradlainson8051]

The Shunt is a coulomb meter and not used for measuring Voltage as such; it counts the amps that are transferred to and from the battery in order to determine the state of charge, the current being used by the loads or being input back into the battery. Voltage is not a good way to measure Lithium SOC, but is useful in viewing/setting the endpoints of the charge/discharge cycle to avoid damage to the battery. Great video though.

[@nasseral-momen1463]

great explanation. clear and precise. keep up the good work.

[@Fridayone35]

So professional and clean.

[@mictaylor9531]

Sensational video Matt 👌🏻 Brilliant explanations and edit 👌🏻🍺🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

[@paulone-off7286]

That's an impressive system that. Good job mounting it all and wiring it up, nice tidy job. Would be interested in the cost of this system.

[@Palinkat]

Fair play Matt, my brain is melting....

[@Geon-Harris]

that's really a good explanation and easy to understand. Great Video. Do you planning on doing the 'how to' do the sensor video soon? would love to see the sensor placement

[@jackgoodacre98]

Hey Matt, another great video - your content has been invaluable for me as I plan my own build. A question (for anyone who may know): Instead of having the separate Battery Protects between the battery & MPPT and fuse/distribution board, would it be possible to have a single Battery Protect between the positive battery terminal and manual isolator (just before the Lynx distribution panel)? I figure that in the event of issues with the batteries, this would cut the whole circuit (both charges & loads) with only a single battery protect. Curious to hear anyones thoughts! 🙏

[@texaslonestarrider]

Awesome!

[@thernameschris]

I love Victron equipment but it is so expensive. I went with eg4 all in one system with the server rack battery and it’s much cheaper. Much easier to Install with less components and tons of energy. It is also expandable which is amazing.

[@CDGMxRetreat]

Fair play thats beautiful!

[@nigelwest3430]

I used to build the wiring harnesses at Aston Martin (Newport Pagnell days) we used to get visitors looking at the 900+ wires laid on the bench, the regular question was "how on earth do you know when it's all there" 😂

[@jbregmen]

incredible. well done

[@trieb]

Nice guide! Would be very interesting to get an estimate of cost of the setup you have here, with MPPT, DC2DC, Inverter batteries etc.

[@tiloalo]

I guess excluding the battery it's probably 1500€. Price of Victron equipment came down a lot in recent months

[@kaiwuthenow827]

Amazing Video - thanks alot. I am a great fan of Victron myself and have used it amply, so know the amount of effort that would have gone into such a neat system would you mind elaborating to the shot of the 12V DB (14:25) - it seems like you are using an interesting mix of cable colours. is there reason behind this choice, would love to hear your thoughts on it.

[@paolopetrozzi2213]

Thanks, Matt.

[@LightweightUK2007]

Hey Matt, aren’t you doubling up on the solar isolator side? The MCB can be used as an isolator switch and fuse instead of having the additional PV isolator switch also.

[@hennnnerz]

I'm more interested in your cabinet/housing for it all!

[@karaborasenyai1069]

I am waiting for the answer and willing to pay for design specifications.

[@mikeyfelley]

Brilliant informative video. what’s the total cost of the system

[@virtual812]

Constructive criticism... 1)The phrase "Connecting the positive and negative terminals together" is a fairly critical flaw. Better said "connecting the positive on each battery to each other and the negative one each battery to each other" or some other clear way the precludes anyone of thinking of connecting the positive and negative of a battery. 2) Equal length positive and negative in this context is not even remotely required. Ripple is rapid oscillations in voltage, and is solved best with a capacitor, not equal length cable. Equal length cable is typically for matched impedance and timing in data transmission, like at the scale of tracks on a computer motherboard. 3) With large enough cable over that short of a length it doesn't really matter how you connect to your batteries. 4) Solar panels, whilst off roaders an so on will colloquially call a panel "12v" in the context of this video this can be dangerous. The voltage of the panels is specified in 2 ways, Vmp and Voc. Vmp is the voltage of the panel at max power, Voc is Voltage open circuit. Using the datasheet for Victrons 175 watt panel Vmp is 19.4v and Voc is 23.7v 3 of these in series has the potential to reach 71.1v which is double the 36v you calculated, and can be a minor electrocution risk and risk to an improperly sized solar charger. - Wiring them in series means smaller cable required and means they will still generate useful power in lower light conditions (start generating earlier in the AM and continue until later in PM) 5) The MPPT150-35 is a bit undersized, but only slightly. It's good up to 35amps, but with 525w of solar you will hit that 35amp limit on a good day with low batteries. This is actually not a huge issue, as mentioned in a post i replied to below... 3 x 175w = 525w / 12.8v system nominal voltage = 41Amps Subtract that panels rarely actually generate specified power and the 2% loss in the MPPT and the 35amp unit chosen is about right, maybe a tad small. It will only be maxed out in certain circumstances... Victron controllers limit current safely, so going over is not a concern to the durability of the controller. 6) Should be more clearly defined - MCB = Miniature Circuit Breaker - and must be DC rated for this task. 7) The MultiPlus II could have been exchanged with the EasySolar-II GX, this brings the solar charging inside the inverter and simplifies some of the setup and monitoring, though it does dit 90mm taller. 8) The AC going direct to the heater could be omitted and run from the AC2 out of the inverter instead, this automatically disconnects when shore power is unavailable. This could have had the add on effect of simplifying the consumer unit install and wiring too. 9) While it would provide a path to ground i wouldnt rely on powering the BMS via the Inverter. Giving it a dedicated line to the battery would seem best practice. - I could be stand to be corrected on this. 10) On the output RCBOs would have saved more space again, eliminating the need for a dedicated RCD This combined with the tip above might have gotten you down to 1 consumer unit while increasing functionality by making the protection 'per circuit' thus having a fault on one doesn;t bring the whole AC output down. 11) The Lynx power distribution unit is huge, yet really all it's going is passing high current to the inverter. I'd have skipped the battery fuse, the main switch and the Lynx and just run a 250 or 300A DC breaker to both the Inverter and the fuse box, or seperate 250A and 100A breakers incase you wanted to isolate the inverter for power saving or maintainance. Looks like you got a good end result, but gee that's big setup and unnecessarily complicated. Still i hope it brings you some joy.

[@lobby1529]

Finally someone noticed what I noticed. Often I keep quiet and nod my head.

[@garethcurtis9354]

Smart. Love victron.

[@robertpeters9438]

Remember to derate your wiring for high temp! And put air space between wires carrying near capacity current!!! Especially in vehicles left in the sun.

[@dubious6718]

The shut off switch to the solar panels is redundant, since you installed a automatic fuse before the switch.

[@steveallen1340]

Beautiful system. Just my humble opinion, if I needed to power a 3000 watt inverter I’d go 48 volts and not have to deal with such massive cables.

[@MattsVan]

Haha you're not wrong there! Some of these were like handling Pythons

[@eugen-m]

True , 48v is the best.

[@bellumCretatus]

48V is the way to go, but there are some things to consider. Solar would need to be higher voltage, 36V won‘t cut it. You also need a DC/DC charger that boosts to 48+V. And you need a DC/DC stepdown converter for your 12V loads. 24V could be the middle ground, there is tons of DC stuff that works on 24V and the 36V solar system would also work fine.

[@MarkChivers-z1u]

@@bellumCretatusthis tbf. Also stepping down from 48v to 12v would be hugely inefficient. 24V is a middle ground but there’s nothing wrong with 12V for smaller systems.

[@bellumCretatus]

@@MarkChivers-z1u why? I disagree. Just check the step-down converter datasheets, e.g. for Victrons (110W), the 48V to 12V version is even 2% more efficient over the 24V to 12V

[@dennisdickinson8337]

Looks really good but insurance won't cover of its mounted on wood

[@VideoShowMeHow]

Nice vid, have never seen as many battery protects 😁 Surprised one was used on the mppt, you have most of the same options in software? Saves a bunch of components and wiring.

[@XRPGOLD]

Thank you

[@seggremalac]

This was brutal.

[@blackquintet]

Sponsoring of this video in extremely efficient. I am planning a very similar installation (although on my boat), so I vent directly to NOHMA, very decided to use their service. Unfortunately, they sell only in the UK and in the US! I would have gladly paid for the engineering advice only, but they don't do that. Additionally, they work only with vans, and not boats. I don't know any similar service that would be available in Europe. I might simply replicate your installation, but I have a problem with the BMS since the one you use is for Lithium batteries only, and I want to use gel batteries (not a preferences, but because I have 6 100 Ah brand new gel batteries.)Hence my question: does anyone knows what BMS to use for gel batteries?

[@nigelgreenhouse]

very helpful

[@tinelpopa5231]

So, isn't easier to use, for instant, one ecoflow delta pro plus an extra 3.6kw battery? all in one, aprox 500Ah, about 4.5 k euro price?

[@DougStamper-rd3fn]

Great video and nice and clear. How did you do the drawing, I've been try to find a way to draw up my system I'm working on.

[@SimonWad]

Thank you very much for this video - I've watched a lot of the Explorist Life videos/tutorials, so it's nice to see you echoing much of the same wisdom. Quick question - why did you choose to place the battery isolator switch between the fuse and distributor, rather than at the battery terminal?

[@MattsVan]

@@SimonWad Cheers Simon :) The positive terminal is kinda hidden towards the back of the bank and is difficult to access. Otherwise it would have gone on the terminal itself. The cable run is only 300mm or so though and is massively overspecced so it should be fine

[@guidurso]

What's the program that u used to make the diagram? Awesome video, BTW.

[@omer-kinali]

I believe you did a couple mistakes. You connected the mppt to the lynx distributor after the main battery disconnect switch. So whenever you disconnect your batteries from your loads, you'll end up disconnecting them from your solar array too. That is not good. As long as the panels are connected to the mppt, the mppt should stay connected to the batteries. And there should be a way for you to isolate your batteries from all your loads but at the same time keep them charging, which is not possible with this setup. Another mistake is you have the main fuse before the mppt as well. If for some reason the main fuse blows, it will disconnect the mppt from the batteries, while the solar panels are connected to the mppt. That is a potential hazard. The mppt should only be cut off from the batteries if its own fuse blows, which will only happen if there's a short. The correct way: Connect the output of your mppt directly to your batteries or to an unswitched busbar, before the main fuse. Install a fuse in between. Lastly, if you choose to cut off your panels from the mppt using the breakers you've installed, the mppt will not output anything. So there is no need to install a breaker or switch between your batteries and the mppt. You only need a fuse.

[@LarsKelloggStedman]

I have a question about the wiring here. You've got the various chargers connected directly to your 12V distribution bus, but a battery charger for 12v batteries typically outputs > 12V in order to properly charge the batteries (which means your 12V bus would be outputting something higher than 12V). Is this something you need to be concerned about? Should there be a DC/DC converter somewhere here to maintain a constant 12V output in the face of differing voltage levels from the batteries, the solar charger, the dc/dc charger, etc?

[@GudieveNing]

The guide on how to bring down big oil, the early days.

[@r7boatguy]

Nicely explained. Do you have any room left in the van?

[@timtravelnomad]

Wondering why using a resistive heater instead of an AC/heatpump?

[@Min_Goose]

Are the kitchen appliances/area linked up to the 12v array?

[@OhadooElectronics]

not vice versa, the inverter is only converting dc to ac and not the other way around, but u said this multiplus is also a charger so I'm not sure what that function is used for since you have an mppt charge controller in the system which should charge the batteries !!

[@OhadooElectronics]

12:23 I get it now, so the 12v from battery or solor gets converted to ac which is the inverter function, and also the incoming ac can be converted to 12v to charge the batteries which is the charger function, but you keep saying the inverter works both ways, which is wrong , the multiplus works both way, one way is the inverter part and the other is the charger part. anyway u keeps saying you're not qualified and this proves just that hhhh, no ofense just kidding, it's just the words or terms used are wrong but the meaning and actual thing correct hhh

[@chrisracer2007]

Wait a second, aren’t you the one with the wood working channel?

[@niffrig]

That Victron Charge Controller is over spec'd for that system. You could have used a 75|15

[@virtual812]

Actually it's under spec'd already. The panels can harvest over 40 amps at that battery voltage, so even the 35 is under. 3 x 175w = 525w / 12.8v system nominal voltage = 41Amps Subtract that panels rarely actually generate specified power and the 2% loss in the MPPT and the 35amp unit chosen is about right, maybe a tad small.

[@MarkChivers-z1u]

@@virtual812agreed. Victron (and others) have a calculator which you can use to determine which charge controller is best suited to the solar array (whether in series/parallel or combo). Such a controller would be underrated.

[@niffrig]

​@virtual812 the panels are wired in series. He says it himself, so with 3 175W panels, Voltage is 36 V nominal (probably 50 VOC) and the current 14.86 Amps. He might have wanted to go to a Victron 100/20 but a 150/35 is complete overkill

[@harrypalmer6228]

Needed a mortgage to pay for it! Good video though

[@nick8418]

I have the same setup but with two orions and two mppt. I'm very confused why the mppt and the orion need to have the battery protect.

[@andrewford80]

Those older DCDC chargers de-rate really badly when they get warm. Any reason you didn't go for the newer Orion XS which doesn't seem to suffer this same shortcoming?

[@SomeCrazyVids]

Are you not sharing the wiring guide?

[@errolmagill1611]

Complex but intriguing setup. What about voltage regulation on the 12 volt side - components like the roof fans are sensitive to voltage, they don't like more than 12 volts.🤔

[@MattsVan]

@@errolmagill1611 ooo that’s an interesting one. I’m going to assume the BMS is the thing that handles that. But I may be wrong

[@virtual812]

Where did you hear this?? No... fans are not sensitive to voltage. Close enough is good enough. It's probably going to have a perfectly happy life anywhere from 9 to 15 volts.

[@virtual812]

@@MattsVan No, BMS does nothing. The DC side of your system is variable with the battery / charge voltage... and this is fine. 99.9% of 12v gear is happy to run anywhere between 10v and 15v Regulation not required. Where regulation is important the device has regs inside it. Your USB lamps/chargers for example will have 5v switch mode regs internally. Automotive systems are well known to be typically 12v to 14v. Lots of gear is actually specced @ 13.8v as that's close to your DC system voltage while the vehicle is running.

[@errolmagill1611]

@@virtual812 Maxxair fans are very voltage sensitive, there are examples of people having issues with this on KZbin. Personally I wouldn't chance it.

[@virtual812]

@@errolmagill1611 Just saw the videos and have seen some of their boards, does seem a legit issue. In light of this new information they are simply unfit for purpose. Voltage regulation for a "12v system accessory" should not be a thing, if i needs a specific voltage then the regulation should be in the fan itself. It's accepted and normal for automotive/ RV systems to operate through a range of voltage. Designing a device for those applications that cannot roll with this is bad business.

[@Andrew-tl9gk]

Nice but you should have chosen different batteries. Victorn batteries are WAY too expensive.

[@okancarsi6309]

I dont understand that why buying full kit from nohma, more expensive than buying individually

[@alpacatje]

Maybe a stupid question: but since your van is on wheels, how is your installation grounded to the earth?

[@michaelking3812]

Hi, It's not, The van chassis is your 'earth' .

[@alpacatje]

@@michaelking3812 Yeah, but the chassis doesn't touch the ground as you're on rubber tyres...

[@mjohan4998]

@@alpacatje Ground is just a term, the same as your car battery when you jump it off, you put a cable to frame not on the “ground”. In reality electricity is PFM (pure Fking magic) and it just works.

[@alpacatje]

@@mjohan4998 grounding means when there’s a leak the electricity goes to the ground. When it can’t leak to the ground it will stay on the frame. Meaning when you have a leak and you touch your frame you can have deadly shocks

[@johnchamney3028]

Is the rotary isolator switch a 25 amp ? If so should it not be a higher rating as your solar is putting out a higher amp , being a novice I’ve probably got this all wrong , thanks John

[@CleancutCampersUK]

It's a 300 amp Blue Sea Systems isolator switch

[@johnchamney3028]

@@CleancutCampersUK Hi Iam on about the one after the solar panels think it says it’s a pro joy , sure it’s rated at 25 amp , unless I have it wrong , which is more than likely, the three 175 watt solar panels are producing nearly 44 amps ? Thanks

[@SR-yv4ep]

@@johnchamney3028 The solar panels are in series and not parallel. So the voltage adds, not the current. He'll have to switch around 10A.

[@UKsystems]

The way the two consumer units are connected up is now technically not appropriate according to the regulations

[@MattsVan]

Yea I heard they changed recently but not quite sure where to find the info. Care to summarise it so that others can benefit?

[@UKsystems]

@@MattsVan leave you doing this work spending 24-ish pounds on the regulation book is recommended but essentially you are meant to have it so only folks on the circuit that has issues traps so individual RCBO are required and a main switch instead of the RCD and AFD are recommended for socket circuit and you need to have a reason why not to install them but they are around £100. You are also meant to include search protection unless the customer has signed some kind of thing but you can’t do that because you’re not a professional charging customers so you should do it.

[@user93237]

Fantastic video! What's the cost of such a system?

[@hennnnerz]

Probably £3-4k

[@MattsVan]

@@user93237 £5-6k all in I reckon. Not cheap but can also be ripped out and installed in any future off grid conversions I’m planning. So I saw it as a future investment ;)

[@typxxilps]

at least really honest to call it prime system where the total system price will make many people think twice.

[@EINKODM]

What the heck are you guys in Australia allowed to say?

[@trevsweb]

The days of systems like this I feel like are coming to an end. It seems much easier to just buy the all in one powerbanks like jacket/Anker/ecoflow things. As they all support solar and have UK plug sockets. Plus if they fail they can be whipped out and replaced which you can imagine is a pain with the victron setup. A hybrid setup with a fuse board for 12v stuff would be a great starter setup.

[@AustenGoldsmithPhotography]

I just bought a bluetti ac 200 max with a 30 amp 12 v output to the camper fuse box , 200 amp hour £924 refurbished with 4 year warranty

[@UKsystems]

The way in this video is a little bit expensive and potentially complicated but the message you suggested is bad because the power is often of a lower quality and you’re often paying more for the same thing than cheaper alternatives to energy is better to make a custom system as a lot of thesepower stations only work with weird solar panels voltages and stuff like that so you can’t get appropriate ones to mount on a roof as it’s not the maximum efficiency

[@gunnerjoe53]

I think the all in ones are great till they break , then your at the mercy of one distributor and there supply . Many places have this Victron stuff lying around.

[@OnTe88]

When AIO system like Bluetti etc breaks, you have to send your complete system to repair, or buy new with thousands. When one component fails on separate system, you isolate and replace only one component. Repair cost might be only a fraction vs AIO system

[@UKsystems]

@@OnTe88 generally speaking they don’t repair much. They would only exchange under warranty cost part definitely has a point because people failed to realise that things like charge controllers will break they have things in that wear out

[@jamesmason7124]

Great job sir and thank you. I've finally posted my first video on KZbin, it's about modifying the Victron blue smart battery charger. Please watch it and tell me what you think

[@SD_Alias]

All these blue boxes cost more than my entier car… ;)

[@Rob.1340]

👍👍🚐😎

[@rhiantaylor3446]

What on earth were you thinking - 7 Victron boxes in a Van !!! These days you buy the batteries, inverter, MPPT solar etc all in one tidy, transportable box.

[@MattsVan]

You can also buy microwave dinners for a fraction of the price of raw ingredients. Sometimes its just fun to learn and make things from scratch.

[@DimebagDarrenLowe]

you lost me when you didn't choose to go 24v

[@TobyStreet2009]

That is SOOO wrong, you don’t need the ground bus bar at all you just need the ground directly to the chassis of the vehicle and don’t need that extra consumer unit as on the 3KVA there is a separate output that is only LIVE when the the vehicle is on hockup, and you just need one 95mm2 cable for going to the inverter and not 2 50mm2 cable going to the multiplus and one 300 amp fuse not 2 250amp that’s just a fire waiting to happen as 50mm2 can only carry about 300 but 95 can do 500 amps and the cerbo MUST be in the battery and you only need ONE isolator for the solar no need for the double pole twisty switch just need to double DC breaker it’s not called a MCB that’s only for 230v stuff and not 12 to 48v and that’s a double pole dc breaker and it’s pointless having a smart battery protect for the solar when the alarm goes off switch the double pole iso off then it’s dead so no need to have that and for the Orion no need to have the Orion cut off thing as no charge will be coming past it when the battery charging as it’s gaining voltage!

[@travellingDAS]

yeah, but all those cables and blue boxes.. the unnecessary complexity is so awesome😂. You do not need all this. Good advice on cable lengths though. I feel for anyone new to off-grid electrics, this is overkill.

[@markholder6786]

What a waist of money, that set up must be at least £6000_7000 ,it's a van not national grid, invest in a bluetti system battery generator all in one , portable and you can add to it if you need to!

[@PavolFilek]

If I see this "wood" installation, I do not follow this video at all. Jesus. Who allow this kind of installation ? This is not compliant with IEC or EN or other standards.

[@adamluciow9246]

this system is somewhere on the order of 8x more expensive than it needs to be, you can build a system 5x the size with 1/10th the fuses. victron does make the best mppt chargers but virtually everything other than the battery shunt is utterly useless manufacured e-waste designed to suck money out of youtubers lol

[@tonyinfinity]

This is ridiculous. WAY overkill, you'd never need this in a Van. Just get a Delta Pro if you need this much power. You can always add another LifePO4 battery if you need more power, although I doubt anyone in a vehicle would. Plus you can just remove it from the vehicle if you're storing it or parked in a sketchy area. With how good the "all-in-one" units are today just save yourself all the BS and get one. This is just a long drawn out commercial for a company that gave him this system.

[@MattsVan]

@@tonyinfinity Maybe, but it’s a cool system to admire and look at. Some people drive Ferraris to the supermarket whereas others drive Fords. It’s all the same in the end ;)

[@tonyinfinity]

@@MattsVan Exactly, I don't want to be the douche who drives a Ferrari to the store because I need the attention. Those guys didn't get hugged enough as a kid. Thanks for confirming my comment, this is overkill and unnecessary. Most people watching vids on YT aren't trying to build a system to impress people, they just need it to work.

[@MattsVan]

@@tonyinfinity Yes congratulations, you win 👏

[@tonyinfinity]

@@MattsVan I know, giver of trophies.

[@tonyinfinity]

@@MattsVan First rule of being a successful youtuber, don't get triggered by the comments, in fact don't even reply.