Easy Eco Driving Tips without Going Slow

[@Oliver9402]

Gentle acceleration going through the gears quickly, less use of the brake as in planning your deceleration from a distance if possible and keep your speed steady, that's all I know

[@curtisj2165]

That's almost all you need to know, check tyre pressures regularly and empty unnecessary crap out of your boot

[@younow1511]

Yeah nobody asked since we all just watched the video

[@Oliver9402]

@@younow1511 I am glad you are learning, keep going

[@brunoais]

In the cars I've driven so far, I actually get better economy if I rev hard but keep at low rpm (in flat, change to next gear at around 2000rpm) up until top gear.

[@iandennis7836]

Our main car is an allroad, 2.7 litre v6 and on my last tankfull I managed 40.1 mpg in varied driving. Anticipation, gentle on the brakes, accelerator AND steering is all that's needed....try going around a long bend at highish speed with foot off the gas and see how you speed drops....... unnecessary high speed cornering uses energy, quite a bit I've found, Newton's laws of motion dictates that energy is required to change velocity AND direction. Tyres last longer too.

[@loutube3959]

Not too sure if you'll see this, but just wanted to say a big thank you to yourself for providing all the videos you have done, I watched many of them and it really helped, just passed my driving test 1st time 0 minors, faultless. Cheers dude and for the people that are learning or have got a test coming up, trust yourselves and stay consist, consistency is key. 👍

[@ConquerDriving]

Wow, what a result, thanks for watching and congratulations on passing!

[@martinweizenacker7129]

I do the eco driving for the most part and it feels rewarding to drive with this high level of anticipation - but every now and then I have some aggressive driver behind me, usually in a large car, who does not realize that hitting the accelerator hard only makes them wait longer at the next traffic lights. And then I get overtaken in an irritating way or honked at. I really try not to exaggerate the eco driving thing and do it reasonable, but some drivers just want to drive like brainless bots in a computer game.

[@nct948]

it is even more absurd now that the price of petrol is so high! some people have competition in the blood, no matter how dumb it makes them, lol.

[@ConquerDriving]

There is always a driver like that no matter how you drive. Best to ignore it and not let them ruffle your feathers, ideally water off a duck's back.

[@PointNemo9]

They might end up waiting longer at a red light, but it is just as likely that they will make a green light that would otherwise have turned red by the time they got there if they had driven more slowly. Not travelling up to the safe speed of the road is bound to irritate even reasonable drivers.

[@martinweizenacker7129]

@@PointNemo9 That's not what I'm talking about. I agree for the situation you describe. I'm talking about traffic lights that you can actually clearly see in the distance (in the city), say 100-300 meters in front of me. If you start observing them from as far as possible, you can adjust your driving so that you either don't have to come to a full stop (lights change to green) or come to a full stop as late as possible by not touching the accelerator anymore well in advance. It does not slow anyone behind me down (well, at first yes, but not after we passed the traffic lights). That's what I mean when I say I try to do it reasonably, not just for the sake of it. The problem is, some drivers do not seem to "think past" the car in front (me) and do not take notice of the traffic lights as early as I do and thus don't seem to get it why I'm losing speed slowly and on purpose.

[@PointNemo9]

@@martinweizenacker7129 I agree with that and you are totally right, I myself actually do exactly the same when approaching red lights haha, no need to waste fuel then come do a sudden stop. Also there is a chance the lights may change back to green before you have to come to a complete stop. I made the last comment because I have seen quite a few people (Ashley Neal in particular for example) use it as an argument against fast driving in general which I think is completely illogical.

[@s0ner01J]

Thank you for including metric system measurements in this

[@alexsquared1460]

The Eco run is the style of driving I have and I can vouch that it really does save you fuel. I also have friends that accelerate unnecessary hard while there is an obvious obstruction not too far ahead and they'd have to slow down anyway. Many people drive like that and that's very annoying to me. Good job!

[@fuyufx]

we do it for fun, not to get places faster

[@alexsquared1460]

@@sk8n854 Disagree. We're all restricted by the traffic light patterns and there is no reason to floor it to get to the next red light.

[@Luigui7470]

@@fuyufx right, personally I wouldn't mind spending a little bit more of gas

[@initialyeet3951]

@@Luigui7470exactly, it’s all about fun rather than actually getting places quicker.

[@CarlosPerez-jp8df]

i would rather get 10x the smiles per gallon than get like 10mpg less than if i was driving really gently

[@martonk1555]

Actually there is one situation when breaking hard is more fuel-efficient. It is when you anticipate that the red light in front of you will turn green soon, or when it is already green, but the cars are just starting. In this case if you break harder, your minimum speed will be higher, therefore you will save some momentum and have to accelerate less. If you break lightly, you may even have to stop (since you arrive there sooner) just in order to accelerate again in a few sec...

[@ConquerDriving]

That's true, I sometimes brake more than i need to so I can keep my minimum speed up.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

16:10 Seat (and every other VAG car) also has a small button in the re-fueling channel and if you press it with the tip of the gun, it will open an air valve which allows filling the tank fully. However, you're only supposed to press that button if you're going to burn at least a couple of liters of fuel because otherwise it might turn out that the fuel from the station was cold and when your car sits in the sun, the thermal expansion of fuel causes it to overflow! That said, the exact amount of air behind that button changes how much fuel you can fill in.

[@philnolan7193]

Thank you for taking the time to do this video and provide a lot of very useful information and comments comparing the two runs. Economical driving does require a bit of knowledge and patience, but is worthwhile. I live in New Zealand and I am surprised by the number of people who seemingly don't care about the price of fuel and are progressively driving faster than is sign-posted.

[@TheBlaert]

I've got a 2005 B5.5 Passat 1.9 TDi (130bhp). 5 speed box and 140k miles. Everyday normal driving it's returning a solid average 51mpg. On a long run that pushes to high 50's. Keep your car well serviced, and remember to check tyre pressures regularly. 56-60mph is the ideal cruising speed for economy. Little things can make a drastic change to economy. For example if a brake is slightly dragging, an underfloor guard isn't on, or tyre pressures aren't right

[@hares9045]

I finally passed my driving test first time after doing 26 lessons, and it was all thanks to you. All your videos helped me, specifically the one on roundabouts. So thank you very much for the help you have given! I will carry on watching to learn more :)

[@ConquerDriving]

That's great news, congratulations on passing!

[@erwingagarin]

26?

[@MatthijsLangerman]

Just 26? Congratulations! That's quite good! I did it in 33, but feel like I only started learning after I got my license 11 months ago. (Here in the Netherlands the average is 40 lessons)

[@erwingagarin]

Just 12 here in Dublin.

[@ih8momjokes1]

get these bots outta here bruh

[@valley5956]

20:00 Speaking of the auto stop/start systems, I'd say that newer SEATs / VWs are much better. I have a 2023 SEAT Ibiza FR, and the system only switches off the engine when I'm stationary and in neutral, i.e when waiting in a queue and at lights. When the engine does come back when I depress the clutch pedal, I immediately have power. It never stops when I'm at a junction or a roundabout since it requires me to put the car into neutral.

[@TheJunky228]

I appreciate that you provided conversions for fuel economy

[@jitishchavan27]

Loving these longer format videos!

[@NoisyMudZy]

Really enjoyed this video, especially post-passing my driving test. I'd love to see some more post-test videos covering some of the things you may encounter alone. For example, I recently filled my car up by myself for the first time and it did not go well...as I didn't know how to fill my car up 😂 The basics...

[@sunilayya8948]

I watch the fuel economy indicator bar in my car and once i learned to modulate the accelerator to maximize economy by watching the bar , my economy has improved markedly. Clean air filters, fresh spark plugs, correct tyre pressure also are vital. Pulse and glide technique is great as well.

[@sparkylfc91]

i 100% agree about the braking, i see tonnes of people accelerating fast up to a red light and then braking heavily, just always sat there thinking, why 🤷‍♂️😅

[@IJFJJAJI]

not everyone drives for the sole purpose of saving fuel

[@iandennis7836]

Cos they've GOT to be a winner........are they, though? I tend to think not.

[@sparkylfc91]

@@IJFJJAJI yeah but they often have to come to a complete stop, totally pointless 😂

[@IJFJJAJI]

@@sparkylfc91 pointless in the context of saving fuel which as i said is not what everyone drives for the sole purpose of

[@irrelevance3859]

@@IJFJJAJIIt’s more effort to restart and speed up from a complete stop

[@Djakis114]

Nice video. We are nerds, the stats that you are providing feels so good. A nice idea for future video is to compare 99 RON fuel consumption vs regular premium 95 RON. In my car, I have figured out that in motorway speeds (80 miles per hour), with 99 RON fuel, the car uses 12% less fuel than having 95 RON.

[@Bruh-vp6qf]

Good suggestion this would be really interesting

[@olii9062]

I think being in the right lane when in a queue to overtake people ahead is fine. The whole purpose of keeping left unless overtaking is to improve traffic flow and if there's a queue in the right lane, traffic flow isn't particularly improved if you move to the left and avoid undertaking.

[@nct948]

plus the fact that changing lane can lead to accidents due to blind corner, or someone overtaking suddenly from the left as you prepare to move. Much safer staying in line at the same speed as the car in front when the overtaking lane is temporarily slowing down.

[@FAB1150]

I wanted to do an experiment with my diesel Tucson (2016), and drove as economically as I could, still within the speed limits and with AC on. Managed to get 25km/L average over 40km. Usually I drive with a fuel economy of 15km/L on average, so I'm pretty happy. It's also a fun challenge! Also, thank you for the website, I kept everything into an excel spreadsheet but that is much more convenient, lol. Sweet!

[@kid947]

These results make me genuinely sad, it feels like my car is robbing me, I have a 1996 Opel astra mk3 with a 1.6 litre N/A engine and even when i'm really careful with the gas pedal it gets around 10l/100km, crazy how engine efficiency improved over the years Great video btw, you never disappoint!

[@ConquerDriving]

My second car was a 1996 dark blue Vauxhall Astra 1.6 GLS. N42 HVS I think the number plate was.

[@Noooo23523]

lol i have a astra 1992 single injector 1.6 it consumes between 7 to 12(litre per 100km) on lpg which is a little more than on gasoline

[@niToitsyeSkxawng]

thats quite a high number, if i'm driving my 93 Civic (1.6 N/A 170hp) gently it get me about 6.8L/100.

[@Noooo23523]

@@niToitsyeSkxawng those are a lot of hp

[@niToitsyeSkxawng]

@@Noooo23523 it's stock though. Japanese import EG6 Civic, engine code B16A. They're the perfect mix for fun and fuel economy. European models had 160hp, engine code B16A2

[@elliothunter2579]

Love the video - I'm willingly a little bit heavier on my foot than I should be, though a large part of that is due to driving a wee 1.2l 80BHP Micra lol, sometimes if you don't, you ain't getting up that hill, or slope. Also, it's 13.7s to 60, so even if I put a brick on the accelerator (props if you get the reference!) it's not going to particularly scare anyone lol. Good tips though, I do try to behave when in town and such.

[@TheBlaert]

You're exactly right. If an engine has to work a little harder it's going to use more fuel

[@samireson4804]

I passed 3 days ago with 8 minors it was my second time taking the test and your videos have helped me so much with learning how to drive and dealing with my nerves. Thank you so much!!

[@ConquerDriving]

That's fantastic news, congratulations on passing!

[@danielreilly3936]

I have my test tomorrow morning and your videos have helped

[@ConquerDriving]

Good luck!

[@Justinhcy]

I drove 7777 miles in like 4 months. Love your video so far. From using Second Gear when approaching to a junction and now I am either using 3/4 Gear :) I used to do eco driving a lot but recently watched some racing video where they say you can hard braking when approaching then light brake while turning and apex out. For me, I enjoy flooring the accerlator in my 70Bhp car :) But I have learned how to rev matching and heel and toe from this channel :) For me, I still feel apex in corner has way more control than you drive slow and brake. But I will continue to watch this channel :) I pull out my black box sometimes if I want to go above the speed limit :) 😈

[@lol-ro2kl]

who asked

[@Justinhcy]

You must be fun at party

[@maryanali4859]

Hi, thank you so much for your videos. I passed my driving test first time a couple of days ago. My instructor was very negative and would keep deflating my confidence. Your videos really helped me so much. Thank you again and I wish you all the best!

[@ConquerDriving]

That's fantastic news, congratulations on passing!

[@jackthatmonkey8994]

I measure my fuel usage quite tightly. In my 27 year old car, accelerating as hard as is safe (heavy foot) does not matter as long as you dont immediately have to brake

[@averyalexander2303]

How someone accelerates matters to some extent, but much less than most people think. Like you said, what you do after you accelerate matters a lot more. On my 19 year old car, accelerating at full throttle, upshifting at redline, and skipping to the highest possible gear once I'm up to speed every time traffic allows only affects my fuel efficiency by an average of about 5% compared to always accelerating moderately and shifting early.

[@MSM4U2POM]

I've just driven a 35 mile round trip from Ledbury to Hereford in a Nissan Juke - a car which many seem to think has poor fuel consumption (along with a lot of other things - LOL!) Most of it was on a twisty, hilly 'A' road, and the rest was on stop-start urban streets, including a long stretch with speed bumps and a 20 mph speed limit. I wasn't hanging around and did the speed limit whenever I could, but even so the Juke returned 51.9 mpg using E10 fuel. It IS possible to drive economically as long as you accelerate gently, anticipate hazards, and use the 'decelerator' pedal as much and the brakes as little as possible. If you never look beyond the end of your nose and/or your right foot is made of lead, your car will guzzle fuel no matter how big or how small the engine; plan ahead and use restraint and it won't. It really is as simple and as straightforward as that.

[@sentimentalprime144]

I just passed my exam today. With only 1 minor. Your videos really helped me to be prepared for the exam. U deserve all the best Richard!😀🥂🥂

[@ConquerDriving]

That's fantastic news, congratulations on passing!

[@Sir-Prizse]

I always take corners really sportiv. My motto is to avoid losing too much momentum as long as the road is dry.

[@lawrencecarlin4023]

Passed my test last month in N Ireland where we still do reversing around the corner an parallel parking, thanks so much for you're help

[@ConquerDriving]

That's great news, congratulations on passing!

[@banana_factory9984]

I wish this man could be my driving instructor 😭😭🧡

[@konradk.2715]

Great video and information (as usual). :) Also, very good advice and the cost-saving comparison is very relevant, especially with the current fuel prices.

[@Dozeji]

Thanks for recommending Fuelly. Got it and it's quite a useful thing to ease yourself into using, no longer have to calculate gas mileage on my own. Perfect for me, since I can't really drive any other way than economical and light-footed (though can push it if need be)

[@ConquerDriving]

I'm happy to hear it's helpful.

[@dabj9546]

12:19 If there's nobody behind you it doesn't matter at all. If there's someone behind you who will overtake you in time before you get to the lorries you should move over to lane 1. If there's a long queue behind you or just one car which isn't going much faster than you I wouldn't move over because I would have to break when I get to the lorry and would have to squeeze back into the queue which benefits nobody. Third scenario is controversial, I'm not saying it's the right way, I'm just being honest about what I would probably do and I'm curious who would agree.

[@evicol2117]

Passed my test today(eu) and your videos helped me form some helpful habits and thought processes regardless of what side of the road I drive. I will definitely keep watching your content.

[@ConquerDriving]

Congratulations on passing!

[@HEKVT]

Doing an experiment like this, in a time of the current fuel prices, very brave.

[@ethanoverwatch407]

Thank you for doing all the conversions for us weird NA people

[@clover7359]

31:18 The pulse and glide driving technique takes advantage of the engine's peak thermal efficiency to achieve higher fuel economy than you can get at a constant speed. The gist of it is that when the engine is under a high load and medium-low rpm, it is most thermally efficient, meaning, it turns maximum amount of fuel into kinetic energy and the minimum amount of fuel into waste heat energy. By keeping the engine at maximum thermal efficiency, you are producing a healthy portion of the engine's available power output, so you accelerate quite a bit. Once you reach a speed that is too high, you release the accelerator and shift to neutral (manual trans only) and coast. This is the glide portion of the technique. Once your speed is too low, you shift back into gear and repeat the pulse technique, again using the accelerator position and rpm that makes the engine most thermally efficient. Doing this is marginally more efficient than simply driving a constant speed, unless you're going down a slight hill where it can get you appreciably better fuel economy as your glides can be much longer and your pulse cycles much shorter. Also when maintaining a constant speed down a hill, if you must use the accelerator, you are essentially just pumping air in the engine. when the engine is under a small load, very little of the fuel is converted to kinetic energy, and most if it wasted as heat as the engine sucks air in through a very restricted throttle and pumps hot exhaust out through the exhaust valves. Pulse and glide is ineffective uphill as the engine is typically under a load anyway. Also, with some automatic transmissions, strategically allowing for change in speed can allow you to keep the transmission in the same gear and also minimize time spent with an unlocked torque converter, both tend to be good for efficiency. By speeding up slightly before a slight uphill and allowing your speed to bleed off gradually while still on the accelerator going up the hill, you can make the automatic transmission stay in the same gear which prevents you from downshifting into a lower, less favorable gear to keep going up the hill. Often, many automatics will also unlock the torque converter when they downshift, and some are hesitant to lock it once again. An unlocked torque converter wastes a considerable amount of energy in the form of heating up the automatic transmission fluid. Also, accelerating hard downhill and coasting uphill is completely backwards if fuel economy is being optimized. You want to drive for free coasting downhill and keep the engine at or close to thermal efficiency (under load) when going uphill.

[@ConquerDriving]

The reason why some people go faster downhill is because they can achieve a higher speed with little energy then use partial throttle up the hill to allow for less energy used. It depends on the hill though and isn't really suitable on the road as you have speed limits. I have heard of pulse and glide, the thing I'm not sure about is although you have higher thermal efficiency, the trade off is you are asking the car to do more work by speeding up and slowing down instead of maintaining a constant speed. Also, the elephant in the room is that the pulse and glide method is inappropriate on the roads.

[@szariq7338]

The problem with coasting is that it's really dangerous when you have to for some reason suddenly accelerate, so I suggest just putting on the highest gear possible to coast.

[@iandennis7836]

Yes....and no. Modern engine management systems cut off fuel when the car is completely off the accelerator so learn to use that to your best advantage. If you coast, your engine is running at idle, using fuel. I don't coast, can't anyway with the transmission in the allroad, but I don't coast in my rover 25 either and still manage 48mpg overall.

[@eloisefordham5598]

Hi, I just watched your advice on dealing with nerves, it’s already helping massively for me, I have my test on Friday in clacton so I ain’t far from colchester, I actually go college there. I immediately recognised it when I saw the video. Thank you :)

[@ConquerDriving]

Good luck with your test!

[@EazyPeezy-e6u]

Passed my driving test today, thank you for your videos, really helped me !

[@ConquerDriving]

That's great to hear, congratulations on passing!

[@rd67769]

Passed first time today your videos have helped massively 👍

[@ConquerDriving]

That's fantastic news, congratulations on passing!

[@razered]

Hey! Great video. I'm kinda your type of guy, doing eco and recording every drop of fuel I used. So it's great to see likeminded people doing their thing and sharing the knowledge. I consider myself a pretty ace eco driver but I still picked up some reminders and tips from your video. Mainly due to not driving a manual, I find stirring oil with a stick is best left for the engineers to solve for me :) However I have an explanation to the "temperamental pump issue" that you had while refuelling. You mentioned the weather is hot and from the dash it was visible that you had around 25c outside. The fuel held in underground tanks is usually colder and is kept at around 15c. It's not thermally controlled per se but the conditions of underground storage make it to around that temperature. So, once you filled up, the fuel starts heating up and expanding. 10 degrees of temperature change expands petrol about 1.25% of volume. Now, for the first run you should have used slightly less than 1 gallon. 0.961 if we agree that the onboard computer was correct. Now let's calculate what happened. Let's say you filled an empty tank. You got 50 litres (I'm a euro guy, I don't do gallons well, sorry) of fresh nice cold E10 petrol and it slowly starts to heat up to the ambient 25c and expand accordingly. At the same time you're driving and using some of the fuel. In the approximately 1.5 hours it took for you to drive the fuel is pretty much heated up and expanded. So you go and fill up. Quick maths: 50 litres in tank heated up and expanded by a factor of 1.25%. A full tank without any fuel spent should have been 50.65 litres. You drove and spent 4,368 (0.961 gallons) litres. You now have 3.743 litres of free space to fill with fresh new fuel. How much is that in gallons? 3.743L= 0.8233449UK gal. BOOM! Very similar to what you got as your result. Same cycle sort of repeated itself on the next refuel and since you were way more economical you spent even less fuel this time. I know this calculation is not 100% correct and there's always some margin of errors in the measurements. But it did come out pretty damn close, did it not :) Some of you may ask that how is this possible and will you get free fuel if you're filling up when it's 40c outside? Well... Nope! But you won't lose any fuel when it's below freezing either. The amount of energy in the fuel remains the same, this won't fluctuate. It's just the volume that fluctuates. And the engine control unit is smart enough to measure the temperature of fuel constantly and compensate the amount of fuel injected in the engine for the temperature fluctuations. The onboard computer showing you the fuel consumption in litres or gallons also recalculates the figure shown to you into litres or gallons of fuel at the temperature of 15c. For the simple reason of 15c being the industry standard to measure and test the fuel. This also applies to diesel. A quick question to you as well: How has the introduction of E10 petrol in UK affected your car's economy? Do you feel any difference or does the fuelly log show you any change?

[@ConquerDriving]

That's fantastic and makes a lot of sense, thank you. I have not noticed a difference in economy difference since using E10. There may be a small difference but my fuel economy normally varies between 30-50mpg so if it's on average 1-2 different it would be hard for me to spot.

[@zakuraayame5091]

Higher grade fuels can have a benefit ... Shell premium not only has the highest level of fuel system cleaner but also upper cylinder lubricant. It can help clean/keep your engine clean. It isn't always about octane (value-added stuff to premium from certain brands). The Valvoline Clean & Protect oil seems to be the way to go for future oil changes too. Frugal, regular grade fuel is fine to use, to be clear; but I look at the premium with additives a no-thought PM service; don't have to remember to put some in before an oil change to keep injectors spraying optimally. If you are curious, 'The Motor Oil Geek' (Lake Speed Jr.) does a videos on oil, but mentioned fuel and fuel additives in a video.

[@tumbili5375]

Please make a vid about cheap fuel, got me interested in that now 😂

[@ConquerDriving]

I may do, it's a very opinionated subject though so I'm reluctant to unless I can make it scientific without my opinion.

[@implodabubble]

I second this. I know some basics about octanes but I’d love to see a good video about ‘supermarket fuels’ and peoples perception about how it ruins your engine.

[@Velkairiwyth]

@@implodabubblemay not be relevant to this interest but I done an experiment on the diesel for my 2017 astra. I always use(d) supermarket fuel, and my diesel cars dpf kept blocking. I done some research, apparently different stations use different additives. I always used asda. Apparently the better places to not have this issue are bp/sainsburys/tesco/shell. I try to fill at BP or sainsburys, find its usually 1p/l more but because the dpf doesn't hiccup and block, I get a constant 10mog more. Typically 62-75 depending on roads. Struggled to break 60 before. I tend to drive 'with sympathy' as my instructor called it, so tend to get decent economy and life from y cars. My last one died from dpf blockages and turbo failure so its something I've always been paranoid about.

[@nct948]

I am recommending it to a friend of mine. thanks for the study! always clear, precise and informative. Great stuff

[@4doorsmorewhores108]

Fantasic breakdown and very informative. Thank you!

[@davidrumming4734]

Most people can’t do this or simply unaware of the difference it makes - then complain their car never gets close to manufacture numbers. Most people in U.K. aren’t using cruise control. A colleague of mine has bought a petrol turbo 1.4 Astra…..a number of years old. With normal driving he is averaging 47mpg. My petrol (E10) Honda (cvt automatic + idle stop) is averaging 51.5mpg on the long run computer. I reset the 2nd computer today after filling up and over 22 miles started from leaving the pump, I was averaging 67.2mpg. Not much traffic and 12-13c (temp makes a difference). No heater, air con, wipers. When I start my daily work run tomorrow, that 67mpg will start to drop…traffic, short run, hills, roadworks.

[@BWB_Cubing]

30:07 i really wanted to know which tractor this is but all i can see is that its a new holland (which is really obious) im guessing t7, maybe t8 just from the size, but ive never seen them irl so im just guessing basically

[@josephnevin]

My Suzuki Swift tend to stall below 1k so i got used to shifting @1.5k so that even if the revs go down when upshifting, it generally lingers around the 1k mark. Got me the best fuel economy this way but i enjoy giving a bit of a heavy foot and shifting between 2 and 2.5k at times just to have a bit of fun.

[@chiprock804]

Just shift at 2.5k all the time. I doubt it will make a huge difference in economy ... and your engine won't be struggling just to keep running.

[@abhik1059]

I'm planning a long trip soon & will definitely try to implement some knowledge learnt here. Hope to save some fuel which is very costly now a days.

[@TeezerDriz]

My 2004 Toyota Yaris 1L petrol returns 62mpg (UK gal). Smooth driving.

[@ConquerDriving]

That's very good!

[@garyprice464]

Bit of an odd request for you I have recently purchased an EP3 think I am having a bit of a mid life crisis, I have been driving for roughly 30 years I have access to 3 cars and one large Van I use daily I found your channel by chance as I was searching for rev matching downshifts and watched your excellent video on the subject Now why would someone with all those years of driving experience be watching driving videos, well this is the first sports car I have ever owned and in the 6 weeks I have owned it I have driven it quite a bit on some local B roads and I am starting to notice a change in my driving habits when driving the EP3 and I am starting to approach corners differently now using your excellent tutorial I bloody love the EP3 and it is a blast to drive I always leave with a smile on my face lol, I actually think the EP3 is making me a better driver believe it or not It is probably very similar to your MX5 naturally aspirated non turbo and it shifts believe me I just need to get the 'toe and heel' and rev matching mastered Could you do some more advanced driving technique videos please I really enjoyed your last one - it seems you can teach an old dog new tricks

[@ConquerDriving]

I'm happy to hear you're enjoying your Civic, I haven't driven the EP3 but I have been a passenger. They are quite different in the handling department although both equally capable and the engine also has a kick as the revs rise but I would say they both appeal to a similar driver. Thank you for watching and your suggestion, I may do in the future.

[@ConquerDriving]

You may be interested in my channel Richard Fanders where I do some track days.

[@garyprice464]

@@ConquerDriving I will check it out 👍

[@peterwright9546]

Instead of using cruise control use the speed limiter .on my car adaptive cruise it uses more petrol than the limiter possibly because its a hybrid limiter it goes to battery cruise it stays on the engine.

[@quinnobi42]

I recently got my first car, which is a 1993 Geo Tracker. It has a 1.6 litre inline 4 engine which doesn't produce a lot of torque. It's geared really low, which you would think would make up for the lack of torque, but is doesn't. Which means you have to change gears at about 2500-3000 rpm when accelerating, since trying to accelerate in gear with the engine at or below 1700 rpm makes it vibrate such that I would consider it lugging the engine. As an example of the low gearing, going 40mph in 5th gear (the highest gear) has the engine sitting around 2500 rpm. I have to wonder if this sort of high revving is common on older vehicles.

[@ConquerDriving]

That is high, in my car at 70mph 6th gear is around 2400rpm and my old 2002 diesel was about 1800rpm.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

5:10 If your car has dual-mass flywheel and you run the RPM low enough to exceed the capabilities of the flywheel springs, the flywheel will be damaged if running for long periods with too low RPM. Of course, one could argue that such flywheel is improperly designed because a correctly designed flywheel should have springs that can handle the whole RPM range of the engine without problems. For example, I think some VW and Audi cars had flywheel problems when they originally introduced dual-mass flywheels. The problem was especially silly because the whole idea of having dual-mass flywheel is to improve performance with low RPM.

[@ConquerDriving]

When they say problems at low RPM I think they mean that the RPM is so low that the engine is struggling and vibrating. Like forgetting to press the clutch down or stalling.

[@clover7359]

12:21 ish - To answer your question, no, you should stay in that lane, if you intend to pass vehicles ahead. It is far safer for everyone if you stick to the same lane for as long as possible. Frequently changing lanes to move over, for whatever reason, is what causes so many accidents here in Colorado, USA.

[@richardambler8629]

no plz no this isnt how lanes are supposed to be used grrr

[@clover7359]

@@richardambler8629 The key here is that he is intending to pass vehicles ahead. If he was content to go the same speed or even slower than traffic ahead, then he should have switched over to the slow lane. It is dumb and dangerous to change lanes to remain in that lane for a few seconds only to have to switch back over to pass the vehicles once you finally catch up to them.

[@Mr330d]

@@clover7359 Not what the law says

[@richardambler8629]

@@clover7359 yeah nah thats not how lane discipline works. You should always move back over unless making an overtake. If everyone follows the simple rules its a very safe and efficient system. If you ever drive in europe from the US you will be amazed by how much faster the roads flow when people move back over.

[@BWB_Cubing]

4:08 it shows the indicator on the middle monitor doesnt it?

[@elsombero1747]

In my experience it only worked on Diesel engines. When it comes to the 1.6L Gasoline engine in my car, I only was able to get better fuel consumption when shifting bellow 2k rpm on first gear and staying under 3k rpm on 2-5th gear. If I shifted under 2k then the fuel consumption was too high. I was able to get the same fuel consumption on that engine as on my 1L 1999 Vauxhall Corsa by driving over 2k rpm and staying under 3k rpm. And it doesn't seem to matter if it's a manual or automatic since I was able to get similar fuel consumption results on my 2017 G-Class with bigger engine and a automatic transmission without experiencing any kickdown. I don't know if that's a different case on newer cars since I only drove cars that were manufactured between 1974 and 2018 but the results speak for themselvs, even if we factor in the aggresive accelerating from 49 to 74mph in order to enter the highway safely without slowing the trucks or causing any unfortunate situations (trucks speed limit 52mph / normal cars and vans to 3.5T. 75mph speed limit)

[@ConquerDriving]

I have a video coming soon about it. I test the car in different gears at the same speed and see which one is more economical. In my experience most cars get better fuel economy at lower RPM but some older models do seem to struggle.

[@maryamzafar3379]

8:24 I think that’s the smoothest gear change I’ve ever seen . Especially from 4-5 is never smooth for me🤣

[@venomvideos855]

It's less smooth because you have to be much faster. The lower gears have a higher difference In gear ratio. From first to second for instance you have to wait longer for the revolutions to drop, and for every higher gear you need to gradually shift faster. This is basically how to Rev match, but for gearing up.

[@Youtube..Enjoyer]

At 34:40 I would've stayed behind the truck (or lorry) and take advantage of the less aero drag. Obviously at a safe distance.

[@ConquerDriving]

At a safe distance I think there would be no benefit, it's better to be safe than save a bit of fuel.

[@Ianforcements5669]

This is a fairly old video, but as a new driver, I realized I'm also a bit of an aggressive driver. One tip really changed that was just simply take 5 seconds from stop to accelerate to 20kmph. It's not a lot of time but it's been such a difference in how calm the drive is, and my fuel economy.

[@Meeyuh]

Thiss video is kinda teaching me that I should buy a Seat Leon

[@iwalker3809]

In the long run, you'll save even more money by getting a longer life out of your brake pads and discs.

[@ConquerDriving]

That's true.

[@jun_suzuki42]

In Malaysia, it is either you forced to drive fast, drive slow (mostly using their phones or chit chat with passengers) or stuck in the traffic congestion. If you drive conservatively a lot of motorcyclist in food delivery service will cut you off.

[@gtapatrik96]

I personally do an insane level of eco driving, a tip would be only put cruise control on when you are at the desired speed as the car normally accelerates at its maximum capacity or brakes depending on the speed difference, else great tips

[@LeitoAE]

What I do is I use engine braking where it's possible and trying to prevent those hard brakings by looking far ahead on the road and letting off the gas to maximize the amount of time when you do not use your brakes - corners, roundabouts, cars ahead. What I do that is against the eco mode is I always rev - match when reducing gears and when the engine is warm - I let him breath up to those 3-4k RPMS when accelerating. After acceleration is done I am trying to go for highest gear that does not drop my revs bellow 1500-1600rpms. It is NA petrol v6 from 1999 (with LPG) so it has a very nice torque around 2000 - 5000 RPMS, but it was not build to be used at those extreme low RPMS like modern engines. I think that this is a very good mix of having fun during the driving and saving the money as rev matching is good for clutch and by predicting incomings on the road I minimize the use of brakes that saves brakes itself and fuel. What is also important is to match the car for your needs. My car has 2.8 na V6 and it just hates urban traffic and burns what it wants no matter how eco I drive, but out of the town it is not that bad and I can make 12l of LPG/100km. I think it should make even better, but in those years engineers were not thinking about eco driving on highways and 5th gear at 3000rpms gives about 120km/h. It lacks the 6th or at least longer 5th to go at least 2500rpms at 120km/h.

[@ConquerDriving]

It is true that older cars did not like low revs as much. From my memory engines designed from around 2005 ish onwards started to like lower revs and robotised manual gearboxes would choose high gears at low speeds.

[@LeeStreet-cm9hy]

Thinking of doing this on my ADI part 3 as pupil is test ready so feel this would benefit her but of course it depends on her and if it’s something she needs to

[@MrDamodee]

I tried something similar to this in my Mazda 3 pension car (or so I keep being told Mazda's are) and it surprised even me. By slowing down and anticipating more, around town I acheived close to 50 mpg, that same run driving like most poeple do and it dropped to 37 mpg. I know the Mazda has no turbo anyway but I enjoy the slower pace but I appear to be the only one doing it as most fly past as if escaping from a fire!

[@ConquerDriving]

Slowing down gently and accelerating gently does make a huge difference to economy. It's also comfortable for passengers.

[@SurferKroky]

Mazda 3 (especially the 2023 model ) is an absolute stunner !

[@boggy7665]

I'm not afraid to use the 1200-1500 rev range in my 2017 Chevrolet Cruze 1.4 TGDI 6 speed (US verison of Opel Astra), but I don't try to get more out of it at those speeds than it's prepared to give. The car is rated 38 mpg-us highway. I routinely get over 40 mpg-us over a full tank (calculated, odo miles / pump gallons, tested minimal odometer error) in all driving. The only problem is the tailgaters away from the light who almost hit me when I go for the 1-2 change. Hasn't happened yet but been close. It's almost difficult now to buy a car with a manual transmission here in the usa.

[@PatrickTCAPIreland]

I have a Honda CRZ and it has been teaching me to drive economically by rating my performance, I barely touch sport mode now don’t want it to be disappointed in me 😂

[@ConquerDriving]

😂

[@brownbagel.]

15:46 Why is the car getting more pessimistic as it gets older? I thought that was my job...

[@ConquerDriving]

I was feeling the same 😂

[@BWB_Cubing]

28:00 look at that combine shaking😂

[@shahzinshajid]

Never clicked at a video upload notification quicker

[@winniethepooh8766]

same

[@Muttisuri]

I notice that I do a mix. I speed up as fast as it's comfortable so that I can get to the high gear asap. But I break early and slowly, and if possible I slow down to avoid a full halt. I also do a sneaky thing, which is "floating in clutch/neutral" (I don't know driving lingo in English). It's when I can tell that I have space and I know I'll have to slow or stop, but that just stopping the accelerator it would slow me down more than just floating in neutral. I know I could probably optimize more, but to be honest I drive for around 9 months even though my driving licence is approaching 3 years. But I think for a newish driver, I'm doing well. And despite the sneaky "float" I only do it when I have enough space to deal with the longer break distances. And I also know how to break with the engine when needed XD My car is an Petrol/Gasoline Opel Corsa B from 97 (Vauxhall in the UK, I think). It also is stable at 5th at 50 km/h.

[@micheals1992]

85% of your fuel economy in urban driving is how you slow down, this is obviously effected by acceleration if you speed up too much as it'll increase brake use

[@dasdda5898]

It requires a bunch of energy to get a tonne of steel moving.

[@deanjohnson7283]

Well I've done this test as well, it also depends on the car quite a lot :D In my 1999 BMW 328Ci (with almost 300k miles on the odometer, and they are real), which was modified and makes over 200HP, my heavy foot (ehem, normal) run, I get 12-13L/100km, when I try to save fuel, I get 8.5L/100km ... keeping in mind that it is converted to LPG, which costs me around £0.36 per liter, so doing the math for 100km run, it will cost me £4.68 when I drive normally, and £3.06 when I try to save fuel. So if my math is kind of correct, that is around 42% difference. If I go to the mountain at night and really... Ehem... disregard the laws... I get 17 to 18L/100km, but that is a different story :D If I put into consideration, the price of the LPG conversion was £720, and the car uses 1L of fuel (on average) more, than if it was on gasoline(which costs £1.35 per liter). I will make up for the money from the conversion after around 750 liters of fuel, or less than 9,000km (with average combined city/highway consumption), and I do around 30,000km per year, so I've saved quite a bit of money for the 2 years that I had it converted.

[@Dreadnoughty]

I drive everywhere with my speedlimiter set to the max allowed speed (except motorway/autobahn where i only drive 100kmh/60mph and AC off) and use the highest gear possible. This gets me the best consumption possible.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

I still think that you can accelerate with great economy if you go full throttle but switch gears on pretty low RPM numbers just like in your more economic drive. (Assuming manual gearbox of course, if you have any kind of automatic, going full throttle will activate lower gears which is not great for improved economy.) I'd also switch from first to second gear even sooner.

[@ConquerDriving]

This video may be of interest: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHbRZHZqp9iMqZI

[@taylankammer]

Great video, thanks for doing these experiments! I've been noticing more and more how extreme of a difference driving style can make to mileage, including top speed which wasn't even part of this experiment. On the 5-speed car I'm driving these days there seems to be quite a difference between 80 kph and 100 kph, but I can hardly bring myself to top at 80 when the speed limit is 100 and I have people behind me... (Also haven't been able to test the difference very well for this reason, I keep going up to 90-100 when someone appears behind me.) I wish Germany would reduce speed limits, and implement a speed limit on the highway.

[@ConquerDriving]

In my view I hope Germany keeps the derestriced parts of the road. It's nice to have some freedom.

[@leo_yeet5445]

5:05 sweet e46 m3

[@XclusiveAaron]

Love Tiptree Ketchup!! I'm also from Colchester 👍

[@Grahamvfr]

Really good information, with great tips. That Leon is economical, for a quick ish petrol car.

[@ConquerDriving]

Thank you. I've always been pleased with the combined performance and economy of the Leon.

[@whichwasher2007]

The key is looseing as little speed as possible. And not accelerating hard/when you don't need too. I drive my focus St170 that acclaims 32mpg when driven by a sane person on the combined cycle. But I get 28mpg driven like I've stole it. And it shocks the st community. As they struggle to get 23/24mpg. A healthy engine also helps fuel economy. Your SEAT getting more HP is a sign of a very well sealed engine. And not dyno my st yet but that too feels like its producing slightly more.

[@ConquerDriving]

I did break it in gently when I first got it.

[@EndstyleGG]

One thing I would add is that for diesels, if you check the brake specific fuel consumption, it actually shows that it's peak efficiency is at almost full throttle at around peak torque. That's where the idea of the accelerating and slowing down technique you were talking about comes from. The idea is to accelerate up to the speed limit at that peak efficiency and then into neutral, and repeat that for possibly hundreds of times on a long journey. Apparently that is the most efficient driving you can do, but im my opinion the clutch, DMF and especially the throwout bearing wear is not worth the couple deciliters of diesel you save. Also in my own driving, I tend to accelerate faster than my father and up to about 2500rpm (1.9 jtd diesel), where as he shifts, like you, as soon as possible (around 2000rpm). We both, like you, anticipate when to brake, so off the throttle well before the stop light etc. The difference in fuel consumption is essentially nothing (we haven't done the exact same route and compared that, but the difference was never something noticeable like a full or even half a liter/100km), even though my driving style (again accelerations only, I avoid braking wherever possible, but also try to rev match) would make you think I consume a vastly higher amount

[@bartosz5545]

"The idea is to accelerate up to the speed limit at that peak efficiency and then into neutral, and repeat that for possibly hundreds of times on a long journey" What ? You say that you should coast in neutral after accelaration to save fuel ?

[@EndstyleGG]

@@bartosz5545 That's what i've read on many a forums, it seems that even though you are burning fuel in neutral, it's more efficient than the losses of the drive train if you coast in gear with no fuel being injected. Newer cars, I believe specifically DSG transmissions, often shift to neutral (i think also stop/start the engine) when coasting

[@ConquerDriving]

It's true that you get mire effieceny from them engine under higher loads, but more work is having to be done at the higher efficiency. The higher efficiency may out weigh the extra work (I don't know as I've not tested it) but it's a bad way to drive on the road.

[@Mr_Coli]

Great video, thank you!

[@MrDiarukia]

I have the exact opposite experience accelerating with a turbo diesel. Using the turbo charger and shifting so it stays boosting lowered my l/100km significantly. That means sharper acceleration helped in my case. E.g. Ford Fiesta '06 1.4l Diesel 5.5l/100km drive-ed style, 4.6l/100km when accelerating "hard" but shifting at the earliest time that still allows the turbo to maintain boost i.e. 3000rpm. Though predictive driving (i do not know the exact english term) always helps a lot instead of last second braking.

[@ConquerDriving]

There is an optimum rate of acceleration, I would be interested in finding out, but it will likely be different in different cars. Electric cars are so efficient that it's more to do with how much work you're asking the electric motor to do, so fast acceleration will use more energy. But with an internal combustion engine, higher loads usually result in higher efficiency which offsets the fact that you're asking the car to do more work by accelerating more quickly. But there is a point where hard acceleration uses more fuel, probably above 3500rpm and 50% load. But that's a guess.

[@a64738]

Generally diesel cars do not use much more fuel if you are hard on the accelerator (unless you have a turbo)...

[@americantruckeringermany8394]

a need to be at home to watch this whole video haha. im currently in a truck in germany but, its interesting because i drive my opel zafira about 900km each way to and from home/work. I've got a 47l LPG tank and always looking how to save money on fuel, etc. blablacar is the most economical I've found haha

[@ConquerDriving]

Sounds like you do very long distance driving, so fuel economy will be very important to you.

[@sangram1727]

19:26 brother(most probably sister) hit the curb and thought we wouldn't notice

[@dkthomas77]

I drive a bus 10 hrs a day. I can tell you that you should accelerate a bit faster so you can go to "no gas coasting" sooner. Use the terrain. Touch the throttle downhill to accelerate a little before going uphill. DONT STOP! Coast towards intersections timing your speed so you can continue without stopping completely. The difference between complete stop and a rolling start is huge.

[@KayMac1]

With buses, isn't your fuel paid for by the company?

[@ChrisChronos]

12:30 My instructor here in Spain always instructed me to get back into the outside lane if I am not close enough to the car I want to overtake, mainly because road rage is a big thing over here and you will find some imbecile barreling at 150mph behind you trying to force you to get out the way, so the less time you spend in that lane the better lol

[@andreapuddu2320]

fantastic video, thank you

[@brunoais]

My driving in my car in about your conditions does around 4.0 L/100 (70.6mpg). In my usual every day driving (which is much more city and even more cars), with traffic and such, it goes to almost 5.0L/100 (56.5 mpg) (usually, 4.6 (61.4mpg) without traffic, 4.8-5.0 with traffic). However, when I worked for a different firm, I remember I used to do 3.4L/100 (83.1mpg) on a run with your eco mentality. However, when I pushed really hard into savings (while still using A/C, mind you) I could reach 3.2L/100(88.3mpg). All that happened because the run I had to that firm was nearly optimal for the car I own. Do note the car I own is rated for 3.9L/100 (72.4mpg). So I think the numbers that the shop shows are actually quite attainable!

[@danielcarvajalblanco3476]

Something to remember about ecodriving. Ecodriving all the time and only inner-city, causes a lot of carbon solidification on the valves and the injectors. It's not only fine, but healthy for the engine, every often do motorways at mid range rpm for help clean a bit the carbon on the engine.

[@ConquerDriving]

I think town driving in general causes carbon build up, it's unsafe to drive a car hard around town.

[@rowan6207]

If there’s no space ahead for a car to overtake and make any progress I think it’s fine to wait in the right lane as long as your not going slowly

[@OrngRubberDucky]

Just found your videos and love your testing. One suggesting would be don't say, "you're not using fuel when you're not pressing the throttle." As that's not true, the engine still needs to idle, it's just using significantly less fuel. Now on to another video of yours!

[@ConquerDriving]

When you're slowing down you're not using fuel when you're off the throttle.

[@josephlau4888]

Nice comparison! Unfortunately, I commute to work at peak hours in the same town/city as Richard and I may only manage to do under 40 mpg😢

[@B_-.-]

Currently on 168 ish here. It's nice. Unfortauntely it's caused chaos and all stations are now shut - lucky I got a tank full beforehand. Also, that problem with pumps clicking off is massive for me and my Toyota celica. I've been told it's because the nozzle triggers the antisiphoning mechanism, which causes fuel to back up the filler neck, making the pump think the car's full. I've been told a few tricks for it that work well for me: - Don't put the nozzle in all the way - Hold the nozzle at an angle. Upside down works well for me, but is quite tricky. Maybe that could help you?

[@ConquerDriving]

It may help, but if you're using less than a gallon, the small difference will always be noticeable.

[@randallbanning]

Interesting how the lanes are numbered in the UK. In Canada, lane 1 is the lane closest to the divide, lane 2 is the next outside lane, so forth until you come to the shoulder. In the UK I suppose, when a road is widened, all the lane numbers would change because they are numbered from the shoulder side. I wonder how other countries number their lanes?

[@ConquerDriving]

The numbers aren't official so if the road was widened nothing would need to change. It's just an easy way to explain what I'm talking about.

[@randallbanning]

@@ConquerDriving Got it. Thanks. Excellent videos by the way, good detail and explanations without added fluff. I've been using your techniques to improve my hybrid driving. Used to get ~4.0 L/100km city, now getting low to mid 3's L/100km city driving.

[@JK061996]

22:22 that red Citroën cuts through two mini roundabouts, is it allowed? I'm not familiar with UK traffic laws

[@ConquerDriving]

If it's possible to go round the mini roundabout then you should.

[@dabj9546]

What does late or early learning have to do with fuel economy? Of course it matters when you come off the gas and also if it's rolling in gear or not, but I'm not sure what the breaking had to do with it.

[@ConquerDriving]

When you slow down early the car travels more distance without using fuel. When off the gas, the car doesn't use much fuel if any at all. In the same way that if you're cycling it's easier to stop pedalling and let the momentum keep you going as you gradually slow down.