Considerations when Buying a Drill-

[@hester781]

Great video! A fun fact a Milwaukee sales rep shared with me about their keyless chucks, after you crank it as tight as you can by hand, back it off slowly the other direction like you were going to loosen it. You’ll feel a single “click” and that locks the chuck and prevents it from loosening up. I flew home and tried it and to this day I’ve never lost grip on smooth shank bits!

[@ScoutCrafter]

I have to try that!!!!!!! =D

[@MadStiles]

I have both Milwaukee corded and cordless and in the past 10 years I've used the corded only for 1 project. Cordless is the best for what I do, it's very versatile. Great video John!

[@MrFlashx1]

So good to see someone who knows about and how to use the clutch on a driver drill...not many do

[@rawbacon]

I have about 15 drills but if you're one of those Maniacs that only have one drill I'd choose one like the first drill you bought (The Black & Decker) or the DeWalt version you showed they still make today, those are a lifetime drill for a homeowner.

[@ScoutCrafter]

LOL- Imagine having only one hammer and one drill! =D

[@Chevyv8man1]

Hey John, For a first time buyer I would suggest a corded drill. Making sure you have 1/2", reversible, hi amp for more power. And one thing you didn't mention which I would want is power locking so you don't have to hold the power button on when using it to run wire brushes, sanding, paint mixers and other attachments. Also get a good one (check reviews on KZbin and other sites) After they get a corded drill they can always get a cordless later if you find that you use the drill where there isn't power. When you get a cordless make sure you are going to get a brand that has other tools items that you may want in the future, so that you can swap batteries from one tool to another, instead of having a bunch of different chargers for different brands. Later

[@hugoflores5806]

If available, I'd sacrifice amps for a longer working time. Everything else, great advice :)

[@famoushamburgerjoessurfsid7050]

Hey John, great idea on the chuck leash! I've always thought there's a better way than taping it to a cord. I'm headed to the garage to adopt your idea!

[@unwired1281]

That is a great fix to a 100 year old problem.

[@805ROADKING]

Great series Bud!! Love the Ol' Pontiac, beautiful resto!!☻

[@tonysheerness2427]

If you are only going to use a drill every now and then, a corded drill is the best option, it works first time every time and is always ready unlike a battery operated drill that could have flat batteries. If you are going to do drilling in brick work or stone you need a hammer drill it makes quick work of it. Also one with a neck that you can attach it to a bench can be handy. Battery operated drills are for people who use them very often and have more than one battery to swap out when flat to carry on working. We live in a weird world we are being beaten up to recycle and battery drills you end up throwing them away because it is cheaper to buy new when the batteries die.

[@OldSneelock]

It is frustrating to have a dead battery. Even worse to toss a working tool because the battery faded. There is push back on that front. 65Ford has a video discussing adaptors to allow batteries from one model to be used for other tools.

[@frankg3072]

I have both corded and cordless . I generally use the the cordless for the convenience because there’s not always an electrical outlet available. For general around the house work my favorite is the 3trill by Rockwell. It’s 12 volt and it’s lightweight but does the job. They don’t make it anymore.

[@Dino_Buk]

Please make a video about the oldest tools that you currently own.

[@Ricopolico]

That's a GREAT way to handle the chuck key problem, Scout, It's so good, I'm going to steal it. Thanks.

[@1D10CRACY]

I have a variable speed air drill that I like to use on hot days! The compressed air keeps it cold no matter how long you use it!

[@ScoutCrafter]

If you have a good compressor a air drill is great, the only 2 issues I have is noise and occasional oil spit. Woodworking projects can be effected by the oil mist.

[@1D10CRACY]

@@ScoutCrafter Not being one that does much wood work I didn't think about the oil. :)

[@lordvengerx]

The drill series has been fantastic! I've learned a lot of stuff thanks to this series :D

[@mikebashford8198]

The thing I always notice about USA power tools is the thickness of the mains cord - in the UK, our voltage is 240, so the amperage is halved, so the power cord is a lot thinner.

[@paulsawczyc5019]

I think they make the rubber thick for abrasion resistance and durability.

[@mikebashford8198]

@@paulsawczyc5019 That's another factor, but in general USA power cords are thicker because they have to carry twice the current. We use 110 volt tools in the UK - safety laws require them on construction sites - they have different plugs to connect to the step-down transformer, and their power cables are also noticeably thicker.

[@OldSneelock]

Correct Mike. The US started out with DC power because of Edison. The voltage was low and when Tesla proved AC was easier to transmit over long distances Edison had the political capitol to override the idea of using 220 3 phase supply line. The US has suffered since. Higher voltage transmits more power over smaller wires. It is lower in cost and can transmit over longer distances on smaller less expensive lines. The appliances powered can be more compact and lighter than an equivalent low voltage appliance. Same reason cars dropped 6 volt systems in favor of 12.

[@paulsawczyc5019]

@@OldSneelock The common man on the street believes that you need thicker copper for higher voltages - they will argue if you try to educate them.

[@alexstools]

My dad got me a lower end cordless drill when we bought are house, he said it would become my most used tool. He is very right, I still use it all the time. So a cordless would be the way to go for me. I got a specialty small size cordless for odd thight jobs and to have two drills when doing a job that requires a lot of drilling and screwing so I don't have to change out between drillbit and drive bit all the time. Now I need a electric one for the attachment because the cordless one is really to slow for those. That holeshooter is beautiful! I like that tag!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Alex- So many drills and so little time! LOL

[@darylullman7083]

People buying a drill today mostly want it to drive screws and a half inch corded will drive the screw thru three walls and strip the screw and bit. .

[@TheCar1ter]

Sounded like maybe your hinting what you want for Christmas there bud!! Merry Christmas Scout!!

[@ScoutCrafter]

LOL Thomas- Wait until you see Friday's video! You are GOOD!

[@OldSneelock]

What I'm looking for a drill that I want to use these days I'm leaning more towards the battery-operated. Now I know I've got hand drills all over the place. I have probably a dozen electric drills, but for me the battery operated drills that I'm I'm going with DeWalt mostly because I have Dewalt already so I have batteries to match all the different DeWalt drills that I own and a few spares. The thing that I really look for I want to have a battery-operated and I want to have variable speed and reverse. One of the first things I learned as a machinist is there is a speed and feed rate. It is based on the diameter of the hole being drilled.. Rule of thumb for mild steel is a 1 inch twist drill should turn 360 rpm. Different materials require different rates. 360 is a good baseline. So a 1/2" drill should run at 720 rpm. A 1/4" at 1440 rpm. If you check the no load speed on a drill motor it will be right around the speed for a max capacity twist drill bit that will fit in the mounted chuck. That knowledge comes in handy for lathe work too. A 1" dia. mild steel blank being turned using a high speed steel bit, will cut better at 360 rpm. As the diameter increases the rpm goes down. As it decreases the speed goes up. Drilling holes in steel with a 1/8" twist drill bit for pop rivets will go much better with a motor that can hit 2580 rpm. If you want to know more, look up surface feet per minute cutting rate for materials.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Good for rattle can paint shakers too! I finally used mine last week priming the grinder mount plate! Whodathunkit!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Dave- I think you have more DeWalt cordless batteries floating around your shop then anyone I know! =D

[@lewiemcneely9143]

@@ScoutCrafter He can run his whole house for several days off them.

[@fasteddy07]

The vacuum tubing idea was genius! 👏👏👏

[@mybigarmada]

If I need my Chuck to be fast I use the Yeager, but if I need the Chuck to fight I use the Norris. ;)

[@wrod7510]

"Pondered the question to yourself"...classic Scout!!!!

[@jimmilner2961]

your videos are just wonderful sir! I did not have my father around to share this type of info but I am sure gonna share it with my two boys Parker and Luke 6 and 4 respectivley. I dont understand why so little importance is placed on the practial things anymore. I.E. Drivers ED, Woodshop,Metal. auto etc. Just a shame. Thank You very grateful for what you do!

[@tonymaiettasr.7340]

Yes. Everyone is into tech but we need good carpenters, electricians, plumbers, hvac people. Heck, I saw a kid who didn't know how to use his jack to change a flat tire. He was getting on his cellphone when I offered to help and showed him how to do it and where the instructions were printed on the cover over the spare. Teach your boys well, they'll be prepared for life!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hi Jim- Unfortunately they didn't have shop classes in the schools I attended. I agree with you that my life might have been greatly enhanced if I experienced those wonderful shop classes. My friends who did attend were always a step ahead of me when it came to mechanics. Now I am on a mission to learn as much as I can and pass that info on to other people like us who missed out!!! Thanks!

[@unwired1281]

When budgets are cut the first thing to go is the good stuff. I feel so lucky to have had those classes. 1970 to 1974. Thanks again to Mr.Burroughs Mr.Layton and Mr.Wills.

[@watchfast1]

The first cordless drill was the brace. Many barns were built with no electricity available. Then the egg beater style became popular. The handle on the drive gear made the reverse action possible. Pneumatic (air driven) rotate very fast. Hammer drills work well drilling into concrete for installing anchors. You did an excellent job of covering the electric corded and cordless drills.

[@mikeedwards6162]

Thanks for the interesting video, just to add that whenever I buy a new cordless drill I only buy one that comes with 2 batteries, nothing worse than say you are putting up a panelled fence or something with a lot of screwing and the battery dies on you halfway through the job

[@Traderjoe]

I have a good quality cordless drill and I brought it to my sisters house to install a floor mounted lock for her front door and I had to drill into her hardwood floor. The cordless drill just didn’t have the oomph to get into the beams of her floor, and I was frustrated by it. She remembered that my dad had given her a corded drill that he got in a garage sale and it was from Sears. That thing blew the doors off my cordless drill and I was so impressed with it that I bought a new one for my own and I still use it when I am near an electric outlet. A Black and Decker Matrix. It has detachable front that I can switch out with a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw, and a few others. It’s been excellent for me. But a cordless drill is so nice when you are in awkward places or outdoors doing some work.

[@joelimeco]

Thanks for the tip on chuck maintenance. I have the same B&D 3/8 VSR drill that you first purchased, I have converted it over to a keyless chuck. I also have the 1/2 inch Holgun (kept the keyed chuck) of the same vintage, both from the early eighties. The Holgun had the metal gear case but the rest of it is plastic. Both have stood the test of time. I wish I could find some new and improved stress relief rubber boots. Merry Christmas

[@Resto-Rob]

Wow John. Great information. I have used all kinds of drills. The first drill I bought new was a Black and Decker corded with a keyless chuck from Kmart. Now I like the Makita and Milwaukee battery drills.

[@TheCleric42]

You forgot about eggbeater drills. For real hand tool woodworkers!

[@Resto-Scraps]

I found that same Dill Master in the trash when I was out scrapping. That was 3 yrs ago. I use it in my truck kit .. that drill is a tank. And thanks again on the Black and Decker info. Great video dude!

[@ScoutCrafter]

That drill was so much better than I expected. It always works!!!!!

[@michelecrown2426]

I love your chuck key lanyard, great idea. My corded drills are what I would consider heavy duty(most have 1/2" chucks) and are used for that type of work. My battery ones are used all the time and I have about 6 of them 😊

[@janderson8401]

Having the chuck key tied or taped to the cord near the plug is supposed to remind the user to unplug the drill before changing the drill bit. Most of the time when I’m dealing with a keyed chuck it’s on a 1/2” hammer drill that’s plugged into an extension cord so at least a third of the time I loosen and then tighten the chuck without unplugging. But do as I say kids, not as I do🥴

[@larryborkstrom3580]

Like your chuck key lanyard great idea I can't use a drill without reverse on it anymore I do prefer corded over battery cheaper in long run even I have two battery drills

[@ROD59]

John, fantastic video very informative like everything you do .

[@mikecurtis2585]

Lots of great information. I always buy the best I can afford. Thanks 😊 🙏

[@kenneyk5260]

Great video. Thanks!

[@uktony1525]

John, a guaranteed buy for me at any car boot sale is the odd chuck key that is on every stall. For a few pence they are a great investment and come in so very handy when you find a drill without a chuck key (even some hand drills here in the UK had keyed chucks and they are always missing the key). Great video as always.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Tony you are smart! Chuck keys have gone way up in price on ebay over the last ten years!!!!!!

[@philparker1666]

Hi Scoutcrafter, informative and great to watch as always, I think that these days to cover all bases you need one cordless and one corded 👍👍👍🇺🇸🇬🇧

[@johnkelley9877]

Great tutorial! i have 3 drills, a 3/8 corded and battery powered ones and a 1/2 inch corded drill. I have the two corded drills for the power and the extended running time like polishing and wire brushing so I do not have to change out and recharge a battery. When I work around the house I like the convenience of the battery model so I can get the work done quickly and not need an extension cord. Black & Decker make a corded drill with a keyless chuck that is still my favorite and I think that is a good starter drill. It is affordable and has good power plus the keyless chuck. Thanks for sharing this.

[@HeyImTalkingtoYOU]

Best drill instruction video ever! Thank you.

[@essentialhandyman]

A consideration often overlooked by the DIYer is to have a spare battery, so you can keep working when the first one runs out. Merry Christmas John.

[@veiledmarksman6762]

Fantastic video! Wish i had this video when I was looking for my first drill!

[@jpsimon206]

What a fantastic trick for keeping track of your Chuck key! I use a very similar but commercial product on my drills. On the drill presses, I quite like to use those old fashioned janitors keychains with the retractable chain? I keep different presses set up with different size chucks, these keychains just clip onto the casting leaving no loose chain.

[@janderson8401]

For someone in the trades I would recommend starting with a decent cordless drill. As ScoutCrafter said the best deal is one of those combo packages. For an apprentice carpenter I would say an 18 volt with a 3/8” chuck would be fine to start out with. Most often you’re going to be driving screws with it. For a hobbyist or home owner a 3/8” corded should be fine to start unless you have bought a real fixer-upper. Then you’ll be doing a lot more things where cordless is way more convenient and safer. In a home shop the only advantage for the cordless would be the adjustable torque settings.

[@Traderjoe]

Also, I bought a cheap cordless drill and light combo from Harbor Freight that had held up for me for years and years. It was less than $20!

[@bigvicsworkshop]

You packed in some great information! Thanks!

[@357magdad]

I have two drills (so I'm not a maniac!) - both corded. I have a Black & Decker 3/8" 4.5A 1350 rpm variable speed reversible keyless chuck. It was the cheapest drill Home Depot had 20+ years ago! I also have a Ryobi "Clutch Driver." It has the adjustable chuck like the battery drills, but with a cord. That one is also 20 years old and still works great!

[@unwired1281]

Hey Magdad just had a MAGNIFICENT idea. You need to make a little key for your tiny flitz buddy. Because we don’t want him to be a “keyless Chuck” (I know…. huge eye roll ). Happy Holidays!!

[@357magdad]

@@unwired1281 🤣🗝

[@carldelawter8900]

I have 3 corded, Jacob's keyed chucks, lockable, older drills, 2 are installed in portable drill presses. The remainder of my 6 cordless drills are various ages, power, features, etc. But, I do have 2 li-ion battery drills that maintain their charge while sitting on the shelf I can use at a moments notice. If I forget to charge the others before a project. Our professional carpenter contractor in the family uses newer Li-ion on the worksite & all his older ones are kept for his workbench uses. He has one heavy-duty corded drill for jobs that requires a whole Lotta power to get the job done.

[@ko2fjb]

I want to wish you a Merry Christmas 🎄 and a safe, happy and healthy New Year. Go Bless, and keep the videos coming.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Thanks!!!!!! Same here!

[@BinaryOptionRomaniaBOR1]

Most keyless chucks have a locking function, at least the ones that click when you tighten them. Once they are tighten you want to basically go back like you will untighten it until you hear a click and the you stop.

[@carldelawter8900]

I restored a 1969 Buick Wildcat with my Uncle who was a professional auto body man. Also a 1974 Buick LA Sabre for my Sister. My buddy did his 1st car. a 1929 Model A. 60 years ago & still owns & drives it on occasion.

[@jacksmith4926]

Great video, i like a Mid handle for balance vs. rear {pistol) handle drill Back handle lets you get your hand and arm pretty much in line with the drill bit. You can't get a lot of pressure on the drill bit with a mid handled drill, unless you put the other hand on the back.

[@reggiefaggart196]

Good information. Thank you. Hope you have a Merry Christmas. Be safe. God bless you

[@lotsatrains]

So much great information on drills thanks 👍

[@fredh54]

NiCad batteries tend to go dead while unused. Lithium ion batteries have a much better shelf life. This is important if you don't use the drill often. You don't want the battery to be dead when you pick the tool up.

[@snapringchronicles3020]

I have that same Drill Master cordless I must have picked up for something like $15 some years back. I can’t remember the last time a charged it but the other day needed to drill some holes in light gauge steel and it still had enough charge to finish the job👍

[@ScoutCrafter]

That drill is the most under-rated drill ever made... The batteries are excellent!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I think I've ended up with 4 drills. a 1/4 for small bits, non-reversible, a 3/8ths in a Makita kit box when my Makita drill/driver batteries died and I canned the whole thing and got a 3/8ths DeWalt corded and drove a ZILLION screws and had to put in another speed control. Still a fine drill and my clutch was my pointy finger on the trigger. A 1/2 Milwaukee hammer drill with case because I needed a half and I was still working and got a good deal. It is a HOSS! Then a bare tool battery DeWalt 1/2 to go with 65 Ford's rattle can shaker which I actually used the other day and I got it because of Unc. getting an impact and watching the guys use them day after day on the job. AND I got a spare battery off Ebay from a pawn shop in Joyzee. So now I'm set. 2 rigs and a spare battery and charger and accessories in a small tackle box and all in a canvas tote bag! As for someone else? Weigh your options and gopher it. You ain't getting a bit younger. Thanks, John CS!

[@peterjames2580]

Those magnum's are the best!!!

[@kevinbrassil9836]

I have a Milwaukee Hole Shooter my Dad bought me years ago but it has a keyless chuck, I wish it had a keyed chuck. Never can get it tight enough on round bits.

[@tonymaiettasr.7340]

When I became a homeowner and was setting up my workroom, I bought a Black & Decker 1/2" corded drill. I used it for everything around the house. Those plaster walls didn't take too kindly to hammer and nails when the wife wanted a picture here or there. Along the way I got a DeWalt 3/8" corded and it works fine.Then all the cordless drills came out and I wanted one. Well about 8 years ago I bought a Ryobi Drill that was part of a refurbished "kit" with a cordless 6-1/2" circ saw and a flashlight and charger for $60. That thing still works great today. Then I bought a Makita brushless set which I like very much. Compact and long life batteries. Use this set when fixing things at my sister's house. I guess one can never have too many drills. I'd recommend a lighter weight drill for us older guys as holding them while drilling into ceilings and rafters helps. Great video.

[@ScoutCrafter]

The best part of having multiple drills is knowing the features that are best for you! Thanks!

[@tungsten_carbide]

This was a really great overview, thanks John. I thought I knew all I needed to know about choosing drills but it was still very useful to see it all presented together in one compact package 👍 I'm a big fan of swing braces and eggbeater drills and use them when I can but I'm not a crazy person, I have three power drills :-D and two are from Black & Decker. One is truly vintage (not _very_ old, but maybe early 70s), the other is from the late 80s or early 90s with black plastic casing which was a hand-me-down from my sister's household. I've used the hell out of it since then for wire brushing, buffing and polishing and it is still going strong so even then they were really solidly made.

[@LittleRestorers]

Thank you for the useful tips. Think the shift is definitely more towards cordless. I actually don't even have a corded one 🤭😉👩‍🔧

[@sodapops408]

Thank you for your great videos. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

[@kadmaster]

A Wise Man said that "Only a maniac would have just one drill" 😄😝

[@patjohnson3100]

Great info as usual. I remember being discouraged when I saw my first plastic chuck drill. I liked steel Jacob's chucks and saw plastic as further cheapening of tools. Now I see the advantages they have. I have corded and cordless drills. My habit is to use the corded drills just out of habit. But when I use it, the cordless is really nice. Great convenience. I have a few oldies from second hand sales. Guess what? The chucks are taped to the cord. I like your idea better. I see your Fury drill was made by Ram Tool Corp. I have a Ram bench grinder from the 1950s, and it still works great. Thanks

[@rene5861]

Thats cool i never thought a level would be good ON the drill, wish they would make em like that

[@DWhite-el4ih]

My father in law got me a new professional 20v dewalt drill for my birthday a couple of years back. I was previously working with an old craftsman that didn’t hold a charge longer than a few minutes (had to work fast). That new drill is IMPRESSIVE! It’s amazing the amount of torque and power it produces for being such a small package. For me size and versatility is important. Corded drills take up too much space and they require more skill to use. I’m a do it my seller at home and when building or repairing things it’s nice to have the clutch to prevent myself from splitting out wood etc. I have a heavy trigger finger!

[@lotsabirds]

I'd go with a brace and bit setup! Cordless, no batteries...perfect! Lol! Seriously though....a great drill video! Thanks, John!

[@markrandall1456]

What’s really important is to know that when the drill gets old and has been used a lot the brushes can wear and it will be hard to start. I had one like that and used to tap it on a table to get it to make contact. One day it wouldn’t go even with the tapping trick. Since it was stuck I reached for my favorite spray can-WD40. I shot a bunch inside the drill. I soon found that WD40 is flammable. When I pulled the trigger I blew flames out the side and, needless to say, the drill never ran again. It was an old B&D that I bought in 1974 just like ScoutCrafter’s first drill. So-NO WD40 inside the electric motor. Merry Christmas to all!

[@planejet42]

It’s amazing how many guys don’t know how to use a drill clutch! I do a lot of installation work, door knobs, electrical, etc. I can do most of my tasks on the lowest clutch setting. I see guys just sending screws straight into whatever they’re doing. They either strip the screws or damage what they’re working on.

[@ScoutCrafter]

With the old battery drills you would set the clutch and the first 20 screws would be flush, then as the battery weakened the screw head would be proud, next settling fixed that for 20 screws... LOL =D

[@joeheilm]

Excellent tutorial! You said it perfectly, "only a maniac would have just one drill". I love the electric brake on cordless driils. I believe hitachi has the only plug in drill with the electric brake. Outstanding job, you really keep rasing the bar. Cheers

[@JustinL614]

I have the Milwaukee drill shown at the end. It's pretty old, passed down from my dad. One thing is the variable speed no longer works. I think there is a resistor pad by the trigger that wore out and I wonder if I can replace it.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Justin I bet there is a replacement part for your drill out there! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHKuq4Fpect0iqc

[@MrHerbie76]

a couple of years ago I picked up an old Black and Decker drill at my local second hand store for 5 bucks. At the time I had both a corded drill and a cordless one but I could not turn that old orange drill away, I just had to have it.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Awesome buy!!!!!

[@patcb829]

I have the craftsman version of your favorite Black and Decker and was terribly disappointed with it. It is incredibly loud and crunchy sounding. It was my first reversible drill, first 3/8 chuck, and first keyless chuck. Maybe I will give it a thorough clean up this weekend. I would recommend a cordless drill for someone new because of the clutch, those geared corded models just have so much power.

[@danharris8046]

I bought my Milwaukee hole shooter at a garage sale for $5.00…. I’ve put a new twist on cord….. my friend would borrow it to drive in long bolts…. I still have it and it is the best drill I have

[@ScoutCrafter]

Best buy ever!!!!!!!!

[@jmar665]

Very informative.

[@mgwood558]

My first drill was given to me by my father and it was a black and decker three eights inch variable speed reversible drill which included a jigsaw. It was corded and it was about 35 years ago that I got it. I was cleaning my shop a couple weeks ago and I found both of those in my things. I would suggest that a first time buyer save up his or her money and buy the best tool they could afford. I would suggest a Makita or Milwaukee. As a female I have smaller hands and I find that Makita tools fit my hands better than any other tools.

[@57WillysCJ]

I and my son find we use the M12 more than the M18 drills. I have some older drills, then my Black and Decker and Sears 3/8 and 1/2. They are rarely used. Now my 1/2" corded Milwaukee still sees use. It is the horse for some jobs. Actually I have a bench top drill press from HF that is probably from the 90s that I set up outside and move around as needed. I don't think it weighs as much as my compound miter saw. Actually if you are a person that rarely use a drill, I would go with electric. Batteries sitting for long periods don't hold up like ones used every day. By the way that Milwaukee Magnum was a score.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Nothing worse then reaching for a drill only to find the batteries are stone dead... =D

[@robfahey1349]

That milwaukee magnum hole shooter is the cats meow lol. My father told me he acquired a titanium plate he drilled out with this and made a plate for my uncle who was a long Island police officer to wear for protection which he did until retirement. That drill is a complete monster and alot of twisted wrists, sprains and I'm sure broken a few wrists of many people.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Wow! Home made body armor! How Awesome is that?!!!!!

[@robfahey1349]

@@ScoutCrafter oh yeah it did its job and was lighter than the steel plates they were using at the time. No clue where he got the titanium plate but he use to always tell that story with that drill.

[@unwired1281]

100% correct on the injuries they can inflict. Damn good drills though!

[@brentfowler2317]

Hey partner, actually that Milwaukee drill that has the "metal ring". Well that black part is metal also. I have the same drill and the black paint on mine is all worn off, right behind the "metal ring". Anyhow just wanted to let you know that on the Milwaukee drills the Chuck is all metal also. Thanks for another great video. I work in my Woodworking shop full time, as a contractor. And I've been using that same set with drill driver and impact driver for about 6 years and I've really enjoyed it. However I plan on picking up the Milwaukee fuel set with the impact driver and drill but the fuel version. That way I've got 2 of each. 2 drills, and 2 impact drivers. Plus the Milwaukee m12 installation driver that I have also. And for the work that I do, I don't have to change the bit in any one is them as often. I can have five bits that stay in those 5. Unless I'm doing something different that day and I can switch them at that point.

[@raymndstannski3947]

Very Good Information And Excellent Video. A few more Pro's vs Cons on Older corded drills Is If you keep your truck outside in the Cold midwest ? And You have a Battery drill? Good luck With That when you need it now ! Also, all the quality name Brand corded VSR drills, usually have a better lower starting speed and more sensitive to the touch,which is really beneficial when you have a extension tip on the drill for long hard to reach situations. Yes, the Cord is usually a pain in the Dupa But? who said No Pain No gain? Very Nice Video . Your The Man !

[@ScoutCrafter]

Raymnd- Wait until they keep pushing electric cars on people. The Midwest cold will have a lot of people stranded with dead batteries!

[@wirewaykingelectric4978]

You need to do a video on an electric right angle drills!

[@saigaking]

Love the drill talk scout I have so much to learn on this subject I would love to Have a hybrid tool like some of the ryobi stuff battery and mains plug best of Both worlds amazing stuff scout god bless take care 👍🙏🇳🇿🗽🇺🇸🦅

[@xed5204]

Merry Christmas John! Another great vid. For beginners, I’d say cordless, 1/2” chuck, name brand (Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt, Ridgid) so they can expand with impacts, Sawzalls, etc. as they grow. Also, the cordless drills all have instant braking which I think is very important for people who don’t have a lot of experience. If the drill bit binds, cordless is a lot less likely to spin and whack you!

[@bigpete4227]

For 250 quid you can pick up a combi, an impact driver and an sds in the uk replete with batteries. Add in an extra 50 for a corded hammer drill if you’re inclined and those are the only drills Joe average is ever going to need I reckon. If you really wanted to get serious, a pillar drill can be had for under a ton and if you’re careful and don’t take them out of the workshop you’ll be fine.

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Nice selection of drills. I never thought about how many drills I own until this video so I counted them. 2 90° pneumatic, 7 pistol grip pnuematic of various sizes and types, 2 corded, 3 cordless, and 1 drill press. I like fast drills for aluminum, my favorites are 5000 to 6500rpm for that purpose. Slower for steel and wood. I better get on ebay, may be getting low on drills like you!

[@ScoutCrafter]

15 drills..... NICE!!!!!!!!!

[@martinblouin3639]

Just a bit of advice I'd like to share, if you're gonna buy a cordless drill, or any cordless tool for that matter, go the extra mile and get a brushless, even if you don't need the twice the screws or twice the holes, just because over time, as your battery gets weaker, it means you'll still be able to run your tools a decent amount of time, I got 5 yo small dewalt I used and abused and I still manage to sink many screws

[@mitchjohnson4970]

Depending on your use, hammer drills are quite necessary. You can burn up drill bits pretty quick trying to drill into brick without the hammer drill feature.

[@ScoutCrafter]

You are spot on about trying to drill any type of masonry without the hammer feature, the only issue is some of the early and inexpensive drills that included the hammer drill option were failing and they got a bad reputation. If you are doing a lot of masonry work I would highly suggest a dedicated hammer-drill as it will make your life a whole lot easier! =D Thanks!

[@tomdale1313]

excellent, always...txs for sharing(hope all is well with your cats and mice)

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hi Tom- I will fill you in shortly! =D Merry Christmas!

[@jrs7051]

After accumulating a bunch of drills with batteries that weren’t interchangeable, I decided to stick with one brand. I decided on Hercules and liked the drill very much. The only problem was that Harbor Freight doesn’t offer nearly as many Hercules tools as they do Bauer.. Very disappointing. I decided to go back to DeWalt and buy an adaptor so I can use new batteries on my old drills, etc.

[@Reggyontheroad]

I am definitely a drill killer I either jam them burn them out drop things on them drop them themselves I have a favourite at the moment but it’s due for changing but me and drills don’t get on I must kill at least two every year for different reasons I will make a film for you I’ll try and get them all together I’ve always got lots of drills handy because I break break and smash them all the time

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I'll watch! CHEERS!

[@unwired1281]

Reggy Drink a pint and ease up on the drills

[@Reggyontheroad]

Just put a film on for you 👍👍🔩🔩

[@lewiemcneely9143]

@@Reggyontheroad On my way!

[@tony1721]

Extremely informative , I’ve got seven drills..😄😄a mix of corded and battery …..depending on what I’m doing….by the way, thanks for putting the number back on the British wrench…..and also, the story behind the tank behind you in the attic🙂🙂…Merry Christmas from Birmingham, England.🇬🇧🇺🇸

[@ScoutCrafter]

Tony the Big tank is a 1/6 scale (Large G I JOE) Radio Controlled tank... You don't see them often but I got a good price on it. =D

[@tony1721]

@@ScoutCrafter you need to do a segment on that beauty 😃😃

[@tony1721]

@@ScoutCrafter I was on Tanks in the army, love em

[@Orgakoyd]

I personally would say 1) A battery combi drill (like Makita) for woodworking. 2) An SDS drill for any hammer drilling (don't even think about a ''percussion'' hammer drill with 3 jaw chuck..) and 3) More specialized drills for drilling metal for example. Whether it's a mag base drill or something else.

[@MrJruta]

Lol great content SC. I’ve got a Milwaukee M18 hammer, M12 multi-head, Festool CXS and a M12 Surge impact. Nope, can’t get by with just one 🤣

[@johnpossum556]

I bought my first drill at Sears on lay-a-way when I was 15 and every so often I would take my paper route money into Sears and make another payment on it. I bought a 600 RPM 1/2hp 1/2" chuck and put up all kinds of basement shelves right into the concrete block foundation. I was very proud of that job since it made organization so much more useful. 3 handles & I still have it. So for my 30+ years of drill experience I would say this to a newbie: The favorite part of my 18V Nicad Craftsman cordless drill is the cordless light it came with it. Those batteries have long since died and now I am thinking about rebuilding it using 18650 batteries and some LED strip tape as I miss it greatly. So I would tell any newbie to get a system that has a cordless worklight. Any recommendations for cordless worklights?

[@ScoutCrafter]

John the fact that you had a lay-a-way at 15 to buy a drill is AWESOME!!!!! You are hard core! I don't have any portable worklights however the Larry Lite has saved me dozens of times! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZbcm3-km8-lqrc

[@TK8866275]

Besides wood and metal, quite often you might have to drill a hole to the concrete or even stone. While your drill might come with hammer action, the proper tool for that purpose is a rotary hammer. Even cheap rotary hammers are usually a little bit more expensive than common hammer drills, but if you have to drill concrete their piston mechanism is much better than the clutch of a hammer drill. For the masonry work you have to get drill bits with special shank, however at least mine came with extra chuck which has similar shank as those masonry bits so it could be used with normal bits when in drill mode. I would go almost as far as to recommend a rotary hammer for that all purpose drill, because in the drill mode it could be used also for wood and metal.

[@alexkay1874]

Great info Thanks On the job site it is 95% cordless either Milwaukee or Dewalt they have more than enough power for most jobs . the only corded drill are typically SDS for concrete and even than the Milwaukee SDS are pretty good .

[@LionheartRacingSeries]

"what kind of maniac has just 1 drill?" - Scoutcrafter Great question and I think I have at least 5 😂

[@ianbutler1983]

For infrequent user I think the Ryobi brand is pretty good in cordless drills.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

Good video. As you said at the start of the video, I cannot imagine a person having only one drill since as you also said, each drill has its pros and cons. I have a corded 3/8in plastic body variable speed Rockwell drill purchased in early 80's. This does not get used these days, but hard to throw out a perfectly good drill. I have the same Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter corded 1/2in drill I purchased in the mid 80's. As you said, this has incredible torque. The label states 4.5Amps, but this has to be geared to get the torque. I went through a couple of NiCd cordless drills. My present cordless variable speed 3/8in drill/driver is a Bosch 12V LiIon. This came with a quick release driver version. I use these a lot. I also have a corded 1/2in Hilti hammer drill purchased from a friend. It used to be her fathers who was a carpenter. Still in excellent shape. For the first time purchaser, if convenience of use is important consider cordless. If I only had one drill, I would want this to be 1/2in chuck. For a second drill I would get a high torque corded drill. A good quality model will last a life time. Dave.

[@ScoutCrafter]

One advantage of living in these crazy times is you can purchase a perfectly good corded drill on eBay with very little hours and cheap!

[@Marcel_Germann]

What most people get wrong on the cordless drills is the speed setting. You usually have two speed settings. Setting no. 1 is slow but it has much more torque. Setting no. 2 is faster but has less torque. In my opinion picking the too cheap ones isn't a good idea, especially not if you need several cordless tools. I use Makita cordless tools, they got one battery design that fits on all their 18V series tools no matter if it's the drill, the angle grinder, the hammer drill (most houses here are masoned brick or poured concrete, it has an SDS Plus chuck). The last one is also a nice addition because you can switch of rotation, so it only hammers. Good for removing tiles with the SDS chisel. Had no issues drilling a 20mm (3/4") hole through a 50cm (almost 16") thick concrete wall. That one was fun, but done relatively fast. And you usually buy the tools where you already got batteries for, so you can swap them. A few batteries, some for the tools you use and some charging in the meantime while you work. And when the ones in use are drained you change and work goes on. Battery powered tools are a necessity for electricians, because on a new construction site you don't have any electricity in the rooms, only bare brickwork. You have a construction site supply, but that's usually out of range. And in older buildings you usually work there were you need to isolate the circuit there. And if you do a complete rewire it's like new construction. So almost all tools are battery powered, including the light.

[@ScoutCrafter]

It's funny but as tool enthusiasts we tend to consider tool purchases in a totally different way. I think of my purchases as long term with quality and dependability high on my requirement list. However when I was 16 years old I wanted as many tools as I could get so price was a determining factor for me. =D

[@Marcel_Germann]

@@ScoutCrafter Yes, and the thing is if I buy a tool from a well known company that is on the market for a long time I'll probably have a higher chance of getting spare parts in the future when I need them. For the really cheap ones that isn't the case. We still have several tools here from the 70s and 80s that my grandfathers bought back then. I remember my grandfather had a suitcase with the Metabo drill next to his bed in his bedroom. That Metabo drill is still here and works.

[@tonylenge424]

I think it is good to have one of each; a battery operated drill and a corded drill. Follow your advice as well! Thanks

[@tombob671]

John, that old Pontiac is sweet! Do you still have it? Flathead 6 or straight 8, 3 on tree or hydramatic. I had a pal in 67 Long Beach Naval station, CA (I was at Marine Barracks). His was black on black, he bought it for $125.00 from a 80 year old lady. It was cherry but not as nice as yours. On the freeway 55 was tops not to stress her out.what a sweet old ride. I had a 57 Bel Air but his rode a lot smoother. What a classy old poncho!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hi Tom- It took me 15 years to restore that baby. I sold it in order to buy my house. It was straight 8 with a auto transmission and a 6v electrical system. =D