Conventional Gable Roof Framing Ideas - L-Shaped Floor Plan Design

www.homebuildi... Click on this link for more helpful videos about house framing, architectural design and new home construction. In this video I will provide you with a few ideas for framing a conventional gable roof for a floor plan that is commonly referred to as an L-shaped design by architects and building designers. Don't forget to check out the other videos related to this one also. There should be a playlist at the end of the video.
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[@randorfja]

This is more like I am looking for...thanks!

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome!

[@DrawingTechnical]

Yes that join area at 0:37 is quite tricky to model. It's interesting that your valley rafters are lying flat against the rafter of the adjacent roof, is there amy reason for that? Better connection? I typically see them standing up.

[@gregvancom]

I don't know if this will answer your question, but feel free to try asking it again in a different way if it doesn't. The smaller roof sits on top of the larger one and that's to distribute the weight of the smaller roof little more evenly. Don't forget that you can always go to our website to check out some of the home addition building and roof framing videos for more information also.

[@DrawingTechnical]

@@gregvancom Thanks for your reply. What I meant was, the pitched/angled rafters of the end of your valley, they're sitting flat on the bigger roof. I've modelled them standing up, my dad who's also a carpenter commented on mine when he saw my rafters sitting flat, I think he said it uses the strength of the rafters better to have them standing up. I would imagine that having them flat helps to get more nails in for a better fix or something? I've been on your website and I have it bookmarked. Your video helped me visualise the way the roofs join a bit better :)

[@microaggressor8746]

By notching the 2/10 for the outlookers, you've reduced the strength of the rafter. Drop the height of the gable by 3-1/2" measured at a right angle from the roof pitch. Then the outlookers can butt into the rafter and ride over the top of the gable.

[@gregvancom]

I don't think you're going to be reducing the strength of the roof rafter when it's supported by a continuous wall underneath it.

[@fsoileau]

The Look-outs/ out-riggers do not present a structural problem but should be cut-in "notched" with a fairly tight fit and should extend 2 rafter bays back using 2"x 4" flat at 24" on center, extending out with a 24" max overhang. The 1/2" sheathing diaphragm nailed using 8d at 6:6:12 will tie in the structure and is the standard method in prescriptive design for decades.

[@gregvancom]

I don't think I would agree with an overhang more than 16 inches or cutting into a second rafter. It could severely weaken a non-supported roof rafter and a flat 2 x 4 might need to be placed on edge or rotated 90° to go any further than 16 inches.

[@1weirddoe571]

Greg, Have you a Broken hip and valley roof video? But My hip isn't broken. 1914 house. It comes all way down--but not to corner. So the corner comes down close to is a Gable end front of house. So all these gable rafters are cut so that they creep into the uncut hip. I will send you a link to Cloud pics if you want to help me decide how to sister this 100 year old mess. Because as you probably can guess they are sagging in this area because there's obviously no support like I hope you can show how to do below the roof.

[@gregvancom]

I don't have a video, but will put your video suggestion on my list of videos to be made in the future.

[@1weirddoe571]

@@gregvancom, please also show in the video how to shore up in order to cut the saggy hip at the valley and add Gable rafters and remove the "broken" Gable rafters. Like what things can go wrong, say.

[@gregvancom]

Good point and I will try and create somewhat of a step-by-step process for this type of repair.