Converting R1234YF to R134A... was it a mistake?

2015 Durango developed a leak, I'm poor and R1234YF is expensive, R134A is not... nor is this tool:
www.amazon.com/dp/B089Y4SXNM/...
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For now I don't want to say that this was a fail, but we will sure see as the Kansas days get warmer! Stay tuned and see is this was an epic failure or not...
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#AirConditioning #R1234YFConversion #FreonConversion

[@watcherwatchmen7785]

Can we get a 1 year update on your conversion? Thanks!

[@axeljehovanymendoza]

R1234yf is the equivalent to Apple not including a charger with their phones to save the environment.

[@quadtraxxx]

“With the help of some Gremlins... pressure no longer exists...” with screwdriver in hand..! 👍👌😂

[@ObsessedAuto]

🤫😉🤣

[@NETWizzJbirk]

HFOs don’t cause global warming anyway. Who cares?

[@Jonhostile]

You have to start the vehicle to charge it. The machine is working fine. As far as the charge amount. R1234yf is about half the charge weight of 134a. A 6oz can of 1234yf is about the equivalent of a 12oz can of 134a. 2.5 x 1.5 should get you at a good starting point to be safe. It's all about pressures. I don't charge by weight anymore, I use ambient temperature and my gauges to charge. Temp/pressure charts are easily found online. Have fun with that machine.

[@ObsessedAuto]

Good info! Thank you, I’ll be sure and keep this in mind in the future! That is a major relief about the machine, I figured it did all the work for me! 🤷🏻‍♂️😂

[@Jonhostile]

@@ObsessedAuto New ones just might lol. I haven't been lucky enough to use a machine newer then around a 2008. My home machine is an old R22 machine from the late 80's. I threw some adapters on it and been using it for r134a since 2002 when I bought it. Works great but weighs a ton. It's a "portable" unit. The new portable units weigh about 100lbs less, but I doubt they last 30+ years. That machine you have is a nice machine. I used one at a previous job quite frequently and it always worked well.

[@myboy051]

I understand that you can charge a AC system by ambient temperature and pressure of hi and low side. I have to do it from time to time when I get a conversion bus/van or anything of the sorts that doesn’t have the capacity posted somewhere. But a system that has been vacuumed down very rear that it needs to be started up to pull in the last bit. I personally like the machine because it will do everything while I’m working on something else. Vac , leak test , injection of oil , and recharge. Also most decent machines nowadays will build its own pressure to get that last bit of Freon. It will even have a message that it’s doing so.

[@Jonhostile]

@@myboy051 I can 90% of the time get a system a couple degrees colder using pressure/temp then just putting in what's on the tag. For example in Home/Commercial HVAC, they use superheat and subcool to charge, which is using pressures and temperatures. It's more accurate than just charging by weight.

[@myboy051]

@@Jonhostile most definitely can. I’m just stating how it’s more efficient to have a machine that I can set and forget. Like I was saying most of them now create the pressure needed to get the last bit in there. Even though I mostly use the machine. I always let the system run for 10 mins afterward. I will then monitor the pressures to make sure the system is running good. Most shops will set it then unhook and ship it.

[@Carcompany-fj4nz]

Now that it's been a year have you had any trouble with it?

[@cookingwithjesus]

When the machine tells you theres pressure, then recover the system with that big expensive machine! When pulling vacuum do it for at least 15 mins on a system that hasn't been circulated in the last hour or so. Because once you run a system with any charge large enough to allow the compressor to cycle you have to wait for the refrigerant thats suspended in the oil to separate out (Imagine the fizz in pop coming out).This is why you'll get a rise in pressure after recovering a system, letting it sit a bit and then going to do a vacuum. So if you've had the system running you'll have to do 2-3 recoveries so better to let it sit before pulling refrigerant. Back to vacuuming for a longer period. This boils out moisture and any other atmospheric elements out to purify the system. After the vacuum is done, let it sit (I prefer 30 mins) to watch for a leak down on the vacuum side of the low side gauge. It should stay perfectly still. The leak down test on this machine is a joke so I just do it manually. Always take your vent temps at the center vent or floor vent especially if your flirting with evaporator freeze up. Low 40s is a good range if outside temp is 70-80s. once you hit 90s or humidity is high those number degrade. There are charts for this. Use a scan tool to watch AC pressure sensors and see if they agree with your machine. Also use your high side port to watch for a vibrating needle or quick pressure spikes. A vibrating needle is associated with moisture in the system and sometimes if things are bad enough your high side pressure will spike over 450 and the safety valve will purge pressure until the system is empty. Reading gauges is very important

[@dirkthomas1042]

I wouldn't recover R1234yf to a R134a machine, but I agree with the rest. I prefer 30 minutes vacuum.

[@billsmafia2453]

Vacuum to -30 and fill. thank me in the a.m.

[@hotrodray6802]

If there's still pressure in the system where did the ambient moisture come from??!

[@LynxStarAuto]

@@hotrodray6802 it's assumed he had a leak. That's why he is in this predicament. One should never assume the system never made it to 0 and allowed moisture ingress. A leak is a leak. Do your due diligence. Vacuum is cheap insurance. Regardless in his case he is converting to another refrigerant. The only way to do that is by evacuating the system, and that involves vacuuming.

[@hondaland_]

R1234yf has left hand threads on the can as an FYI as well. Say you're trying to charge up with a 134a gauge set. Gasses don't have separate reading on the gauges though. Like how r22 and r134 have different readings. R1234yf and r134 read the same on a gauge set that does both. Just had adapters.

[@ssgpentland8241]

The expansion valve is set different for 1234yf VS 134A. That's why it doesn't seem to cool as well after the "conversion". You'll have to play with the superheat/subcool pressure game, but otherwise sound be fine. Otherwise seems to be about a 10% difference in cooling

[@hotrodray6802]

Many 134 systems have an adjustable valve. Between the electrical terminals on the switch is a tiny screwdriver slot to adjust pressure cutoff/ temp.

[@09fatbobmike]

From what I gather. Cause I'm about to do this. I need a r134a thermal expansion valve and I also need to change the line because the r1234yf uses a special sleeved line cause it doesn't get as cold as r134a. What I was told happens is the condenser and lines can freeze up. Blocking flow. I wonder if that is why the condenser on the durango went bad and started leaking.

[@GRENADE.......]

Hey so I got 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it's got r1234, Autozone is selling a ac compressor that is r134. It's weird because it's the only one they sell. I've heard that to go from r1234 to r134 you need a different expansion valve. The autozone kit comes with the compressor, expansion valve, o rings, etc. I'm just wondering if you did this before or what? I'm bout to change out the compressor because it's got a leak from UV dye test and also the condenser because I've heard they go our. Mine has 110k so I'd figure out knocking it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[@mfr5725]

Any updates? How's it working

[@micheliazevedo2847]

Hello... good night! I can utilize him in Brazil? Or do I have to have any other adapter? Thank you.

[@scottcpan68]

For a few dollars more you could have gotten an adapter kit that does both high and low sides.

[@randallowens7691]

You charge them on the high side under a vacuum you can flash it on low side with the car a running I dont know the pressure on r1234 but when you convert r12 to 134a you do it at 80 percent

Good day mr, I have a question related to the topic itself, it is a BMW F20 116D 2016 YEAR and I have 1234yf gas that I filled in the car last summer, but now, looking at how the air conditioner works, maybe it is at about 50%, which means that it does not throw out the same amount of cold air . Is it ok to insert another gas because as far as I can see this 1234yf is pure crap...

[@rwomono]

it still works fine

[@froggerman44]

So I have a question, with the 134a , your temps are 60 ish, what was the vent temps when the system was 1234yf? Have a 2015 grand , and the compressor is short cycles 7 sec on 5 sec off and vent temp of 45.

[@ObsessedAuto]

So, I believe I overcharged the system slightly.. It has another leak so I will be looking into that tomorrow and going from there. If I do not see sub 50* temps I very well may bite the bullet and put 1234YF back in. Stay tuned for the update video. Will be next week!

[@jimjones8428]

It's short cycling when you have it set to max cooling?

[@rickjames6948]

Low on charge. You have a leak.

[@kkenneth100]

The thermo dynamic on the refrigerant are different. Need to watch the high pressure side of the system to make sure you don't have to high head pressure. Take out your compressor to quick. Best thing check the lettering device. Is it a fitting, cap tube or expansion valve. It could possibly be changed and work. But not sure. Whatever is done the head pressure needs to be watched. IDK know if a good range can be achieved on this

[@letsplayblackops]

Any problems doing this to your car ?

[@smokeysmith1282]

Did you get this system dialed in yet meaning you’ve dialed n the charge?

[@rodcoulter997]

Great video.......thanks

[@Reloadeez]

R152a from computer duster cans, same flammability rating as R1234YF at A2. And same GWP rating at 0. It's compatible with all materials, refrigeration components, thermostatic valves, compressors and lubricating oils. Use 60 percent of the R1234YF charge weight, it's usually less then 2 $6 cans of it. Thank me later when you're making ice cubes in your car.

[@LynxStarAuto]

Oil would be the biggest concern. What type of oil would it require, and is it compatible with MVAC oils?

[@Reloadeez]

@@LynxStarAuto Everything except mineral oil.

[@rmealman]

So you are saying if it calls for 1lb 1234 then use .6 lbs of 134a?

[@Reloadeez]

@@rmealman 60 percent of the called R1234YF charged weight when converting to R152a. I don't use R134a. R152a has better thermodynamic characteristics to R134a. Heat transfer coefficient of R152a in the evaporator is 20% higher than R134a. The pressure drop in the suction lines compared to R134a is 30% lower. R152a has a higher latent heat of vaporization, and higher volumetric efficiency of the compressor.

[@atmphil1]

When ever you change from the low side you have to start the car for it to continue charging as pressure builds up

[@ct0760]

Id do it more than 5 min, I'd also change the oil in the compressor or make sure what is in there is already compatible to be safe

[@chrisreetz4117]

I work in a body shop for 29 years charge at least 2 cars a week. Anybody remeber r12. These coments make me laugh lots of experts out there

[@joshreynolds729]

So basically you need a machine that cost a left nut and an Amazon fitting unless the machine is a r1234yf specific is that correct?

[@glengarbera7367]

Any vacuum n recovery bottle with car guages

[@pablovelazquez5666]

That is incorrect. You need the fittings, some gas and a screwdriver. Turn on the air conditioner, squeeze the high side and let all the r1234 into the air, it's not going to hurt shit. Make sure you have a rag on your hands so you're fingers don't freeze. Then recharge on low side. The only reason they keep switching is because of the environmental wackadoodles and this global warming bullshit. Which is a whole different farce I can give you data on that as well.

[@hishamlmzabi228]

Can you put the link to tha adapter please??

[@rickjames6948]

Or not. This is a total failure. Don't waste your time. 60F out of the vents might be okay for Canada. Go to south Texas, Oklahoma, Georgia or Louisianan with this hooptie. Sweat box.........

[@willyautomotive1465]

I wonder if the r1234yf oil is compatible with the r134 ?

[@daleharvey3278]

Nope..need to flush

[@EvilJ069]

So how has this worked out for you?

[@peanutbutterisfu]

You should vacuum it much longer than 5 minutes specially because ur only doing the low side. When your only filling the Low side you need to start engine and turn ac on to fill it like that.

[@hotrodray6802]

Still had pressure in it so there was no ambient air in the system. Vacuuming is to remove ambient moisture.

[@LynxStarAuto]

Wrong. There is no "high o low side" when the system is not operating. An MVAC system is closed loop circle. Starting and terminating at the AC compressor. This is why both sides equalize in pressure when the system is shutdown. The only reason you open both service valves during a vacuum is to pull down to vacuum quicker, as you don't have to fight through the restriction at the orifice tube or TXV. MVAC systems have such a small footprint, that 5 minutes is more than enough time to achieve deep vacuum. Especially on a 1234 system.

[@peanutbutterisfu]

@@hotrodray6802 no vacuuming is actually critical to fit the refrigerant into the system properly so the pressures are correct so the system works efficiently and you me maximum cooling. Different refrigerants also work at different pressures, requiring different amounts of refrigerant. In most vehicles vacuuming isn’t as critical as a big system like a home central air system where you can have 15 pounds of refrigerant and the system would not charge of a vacuum was not put on the system. However some of the big system in big suvs with front and rear hvac will absolutely 100% not work as efficiently if systems is not put on a vacuum for long enough, pressures will be higher.

[@peanutbutterisfu]

@@LynxStarAuto you are incorrect as well. First thing you are not taking into consideration the cfm of the pump and have absolutely no idea is the cfm of the vacuum pump in that ac machine. Older Robin air machines like he has don’t have very good pumps they are usually only around 1-2 cfm they aren’t like a mahle machine that’s 5cfm or better. I have an older Robin air machine like he has at the repair shop that I own and have used these machines for 20 years. I put a bigger vacuum pump in my machine so if I vacuum for 5 minutes it’s like this guy vacuuming with his machine for 20 minutes and when you do this when the system has proper vacuum they charge faster to and also when you add dye oil you are loosing some vacuum so again all the more critical if you want the system to work the best it can. Will the a/c work after 5 min? Yeah it will work without a vacuum at all on small systems like this but they are more efficient when properly serviced. The bigger the system the more critical it is for the system to be on a vacuum for a longer period of time. If you don’t care about efficiency then don’t vacuum it. If u are taking money from customers and not property doing the air conditioning service you are a thief and should be ashamed of urself! Customers are paying for a proper service that’s why they didn’t have some dbag at the parts store slam a cam in that’s what hacks do. There is nothing either one of u can say you are 100% wrong you don’t know what ur talking about that is not how a professional services a/c systems that’s how someone does it at their house or how a scam artist shops does their work not real professionals that take pride in doing proper work. THE END, case closed, I truly hope you guys aren’t taking money from hard working people ripping them off.

[@thanospatswnas8272]

How many ml of R134a need i, instead of R12341yf? Now my car need 500ml of r12341yf, but i want to turn on R134A. Thank's

[@fff3136]

Doing this now just popped a hole in my dam condenser not paying the price for 1234yf

[@myboy051]

Shouldn’t tighten the couplers down that hard it can crush the valves down and cause them to leak. Should slowly let it bottom out then back it off a quarter turn. Old school fella taught me that years ago.

[@LynxStarAuto]

These new ones are spring loaded, so they never "bottom out" they maintain a steady pressure on the valve as you depress it. Bottoming out your coupler doesn't really affect the valve at all these days. Pretty much all service equipment has these spring loaded couplers these days. Definitely that machine uses them.

[@azmrblack]

I converted my 2019 Chrysler 300 to 134a - cools much better in summer here in Phoenix vs. the 1234yf. Like everyone has said, it's kinda game.

[@able_trucking780]

I have a 2017 charger in phx and it dont seem to cool very good, so i just get the retrofit kit let the gas out and fill it up with 134a?

[@azmrblack]

​@@able_trucking780 After 6 years it may need a recharge. I'd have it checked first. Mine was done by a professional who had a machine to vacuum, oil and charge correct like this guy. You really need to find a mechanic who has the equipment and will look the other way - most shops wont do it because it's illegal.

[@able_trucking780]

@@azmrblack ok thanks

[@thehightechredneck9777]

Fuckin mint! I knew that hand gesture right away... Lol

[@brandondimmitt8467]

Yea bud that is letting you know to start the vehicle so the compressor can pull the Freon. Suppose to charge with car running.

[@user-lo9sr9jb7t]

Any difference between AC temperature with old and new one?

[@ObsessedAuto]

Seems like the 134a blows a touch warmer, but nothing dramatic. Still cools the vehicle for sure!

[@giubaca]

Both gases have the same PT chart. In fact the latest one was designed in such a way to replace the old one like for like... politics and monopoly.

[@rickjames6948]

He got 60F at the vent. Total failure. If it isn't 33F, keep rolling the dice.

[@brucemills9146]

@@rickjames6948 if the fan is set on lowest setting should blow 32-34 can not blow colder freeze up.ac should be checked with fan on high should be 50-60 degrees depending on out side temp. 100 degrees out side a/c temp 60

[@hotrodray6802]

@@rickjames6948 only had 1/2 charge in it. Failed the fill-up, failed the conversion rate.

[@fa2036]

Hi. One question. Do you keep oil for yf1234 or do you replace it by compatible r134a oil. Pag 46 or 100 is ok ? can we merge it with factory yf1234 oil ? In case of leak what do you suggest ? Take out compressor en replace all the oil by compatible r134a oil before yf1234 to r134a conversion ? Or just keep the system as it, fix leak and fulfilled r134a with old yf1234 oil.

[@MiranPayman]

1234yf oil is backward compatible but not vise versa

[@jesusmonroy4750]

ey brother dont you think can be contaminated that freon you have inside the machine?????

[@MrGeoNexus]

How about the PAG oil ? Are there compatibility issues ?

[@magicone9327]

What's going to happen When the 134a is phased out? Then what

[@WilleJamesHuff]

Doubtful. My 2021 F550 has 134a still. It would be years and years before it even could be thought about and likely wouldn’t happen. I mean you don’t even have to look that hard and you can still find R12 to buy

[@glengarbera7367]

Where can I get a bottle of r134a

[@colbycattech2221]

Check Oreily's website or Walmart. Personally, I would not get anything that claims to stop leaks.

[@matsb44]

The refrigerant R1234yf, which the EU has approved for its low climate impact, becomes as dangerous in the event of fire as the combat gas phosgene 👍👍👍👍👏👏👏

[@richieschmidt6225]

it's all a scam man.

[@glengarbera7367]

What

[@chadgregory7862]

The climate doesn’t matter if you’re dead

[@dreece2000]

It’s flammable so you can imagine what happens in a accident like If lynyrd skynrd hit the oak tree with r1234y and didn’t have the right oil in the system he wouldn’t have made it to the site of the plane crash

[@hotrodray6802]

Not only is conversion federally illegal .... 134 Is flammable too, especiallyvwith atomized oil at 250 psi (they always ignore that)..... But propane is NOT PATENTABLE. Also refrigerant grade propane is 1/3 the mass, totally non polluting, and..... NON PATENTABLE.... 1234yf is all about $$$$$$.

[@LynxStarAuto]

You may run into issues because the evaporator is different in 1234yf systems. But interested to know how it worked out? I'm a service professional and have just run into issues with shortages of this damn gas. Some of my customers have asked about switching it out. Been hesitant.

[@ayadu1265]

Link to adapter please

[@jims.3987]

You don't have the f'ing internet?

[@atmphil1]

It’s works people you just can’t mix the 2.

[@jcortes3930]

Yeah cmon

[@Yuxu82]

Hi, what are the differences between R1234YF and R134A? If R134A is used instead of R1234YF, will it cause any damage to the car's air conditioning system? Because as far as I know, one is dry gas and the other is wet gas.

[@damonjenkins2185]

I’ve never heard of this dry and wet gas nonsense. They both use the same oil and seal types and run similar pressures so it’s easier than an r12 to r134a conversion. I do happen to know that r1234yf to r134a conversions are illegal in some parts of the world under environmental laws

[@giubaca]

As explained above they are almost identical. The difference is that one if non flammable and the other one is flammable. If you search 'cheap alternative to 134a' you will find out the summer mix of lpg can be used instead of both. There is a small draw back but for the cost of it is negligible

[@damonjenkins2185]

@@giubaca biggest issue I’ve ever seen with the summer lpg mix is destroyed compressors from liquid flood back while using the air conditioner for defrost on cold days. Basically if the evaporator gets colder than the boiling point of butane (around -3.5C) you can say goodbye to your compressor

[@giubaca]

@@damonjenkins2185 my particular model (ren Zoe) runs in reverse, heating pump, on cold days. So far so good, however i live in a very moderate climate area, never cold never hot... My system is leaking constantly and i use about 250grams/month

[@bwilliams7686]

they both change state. compressor takes low pressure gas changes to high pressure gas. condesor makes high pressure liquid. expansion valve restricts flow to make low pressure liquid, evap will change state back to low pressure liquid. both types do the same thing. they have different temperatures at different pressures. the new systems use the internal heat exchanger. it basically takes the allows heat transfer from the high pressure liquid part of the system to the low pressure gas part of the system to heat the freon right before it enters the compressor.

[@magicone9327]

From the comments there is a lot of learning for you!

[@robertmusicman]

r1234yf uses POE oil and r134a uses PAG oil. Make sure to change the compressor oil before changing the refrigerant.

[@benjaminritter9088]

My r1234yf system used pag

[@joshcolson8097]

Systems I have serviced use PAG46. The pag 46 I use claims to have additives specifically for R1234yf.

[@pablovelazquez5666]

The oils are totally compatible

[@achakus101]

They both use pag oil

[@brianlopez2293]

Any issues with it so far?

[@ObsessedAuto]

Nope, still working!

[@rickjames6948]

Total system contamination is all. Too short vacuum time. Oil still has yf-1234 in it. Wrong oil in system for 134A. 60F at the supply, total failure. But hey, it's working GREAT LOL.

[@bleuzarga2347]

Hi sir plz ihave change 1234yf to 134a in my car i ask does 134a can damage the compressor yes or no?

[@ericmichel3857]

From what I can see, 1234yf is highly reactive compared to 134a, so much so that they had to develop a new lubricant that could survive in a 1234yf system. But does it? Or does it just breakdown at a slower rate? From what little I can see 1234yf cooling systems seem to be less reliable in general. There are many folks online that have switched a 1234yf to 134a and they have been working fine for years. So R134a may actually make your system run cooler, and with better reliability. I am no expert, this is just my impression from researching this topic online so...

[@seanmatticker4723]

GRAVY DOG!!!!!!!

[@lucialiu5532]

I wonder how expensive the R1234yf is in the U.S.

[@RoyBoy2020]

44.00 a can

[@brucemills9146]

40=50 lb

[@lilffrancisco]

My durango have leak i been trying to find , i already charge 2 times , spend 300 each time ima try that this time

[@ObsessedAuto]

It’s pricey, that is for sure!!

[@mikek2032]

Check the compressor seal behind the clutch. It’ll bite you every time

[@chilledboost1982]

The condensers crack on the 2017-2020s on the lower driver side

[@markfigger4240]

Yes, sure, do remember r12, was licensed to use it.

[@nicholaslandolina]

Does this mess with the seals

[@rickjames6948]

How would he know? His monkeys and tigers are fine too.

[@daveunbranded]

60 is not Aircon. Why would you do that

[@CarsSimplified]

I didn't know that could be done that easily! I hope you don't live in California because I'm sure they would put you away for life for this conversion.

[@ObsessedAuto]

Fortunately no! Haha still slightly sketchy posting it, BUT as everyone knows - 1234YF is ENTIRELY too expensive! With that adaptor it is so very easy to change things! 😏

[@CarsSimplified]

For sure! I haven't looked into the price in a long time, but I'm sure it hasn't gone down by much. My newest car has it and I'm just going to hope for the best in regards to A/C system issues.

[@mtsanchez27]

@@ObsessedAuto can I use this type of adapters in my Honda Civic that uses R1234yf?

[@giubaca]

You can convert it to LPG too 😅😅. Get the same results for a $1 worth of gas

[@giubaca]

I did it and works. Do your homework beforehand tho

[@abelgarcia8615]

R-600a?

[@brucemills9146]

have seen that tried in R12 systems would not circulate oil, compressor would have a light knock and go out in about 90 days.it was cold as long as it worked very flammable .big law suites people burned up in accidents is illegal to use in autos.

[@giubaca]

Is just as much flammable as the 1234yf... you can't claim the 1234yf is nonflamable. And take extra care when you go camping with that portable stove... it uses the very same lpg.

[@Efferheim]

@@abelgarcia8615 R600a is iso-butane R290 is propane.

[@iancolon727]

1.80lbs of R134 should be fine….

[@allenallen5005]

One big problem..its a Dodge pos

[@cbmech2563]

Corrosive and flammable. Past being a mistake

[@Matthew-wn8oq]

60? That is no bueno

[@thomasmann3560]

You messed up and didn't pull a long enough vacuum. That's why it didn't take All 2.5lbs. Also, the pressures are gonna be way different so your charge level is gonna be different then the mfg asks for. I would of added 2 fittings and charged using your high and low side pressure readings.

[@rickjames6948]

60 degree supply air is a total fail. Not impressed.

[@AaaAa-em1fd]

Mechanic says an aftermarket compressor doesn't work in 1234yf system. Compressor seals will leak if you try it with 1234yf refrigerant

[@abelgarcia8615]

From my experience I did have quite a bit of issues with cross contamination with different compressor oils when using aftermarket compressors but if you drain the oil on the new compressor and replace it with original equipment manufacturer specifications oil should work well. I do mostly work on R404a systems with refrigerator 52 foot trailers so I can be wrong. Thank you for reading

[@cookingwithjesus]

I don't think thats true. I've found the compressor part numbers on many vehicles are the same when one year is 134a and the next is 1234yf. Compressors are easily able to operate at 500 psi although the safety valve will pop at 450. The major difference is the double walled Hard lines for the heat exchange feature.

[@brucemills9146]

@@abelgarcia8615 a rebuilder put a used 134a compressor on a 1234yf chevy Tahoe it went out in a month.

[@brucemills9146]

it's a $2,500 federal government fine to change over 1234yyf to 134a...what happens when next owner takes it to dealer and there machine checks the type of freon is in it.

[@chrisperkins7067]

Then they let it out and move on highly doubt the dealers gonna care.

[@brucemills9146]

@@chrisperkins7067 the 1234yf machine has a built in identifier that alarms when it is connected to a car with 134a or other freon. then the machine has to have the134a cleaned out of the hoses and identifier so it does not contaminate the $6500 1234yf machine this is a lot of trouble , so yea they will be mad and charge you , if not reporting it to epa. if a dealer lets out freon it's a $10,000 fine, freon has to be recovered also constipated freon has to be recovered and sent to a disposal site very costly

[@chrisperkins7067]

@@brucemills9146 I remember when I was in college for heating and cooling and they mentioned the hole EPA fine stuff we all went and look to see if any one actually has been fined and couldn’t find a single case were anyone had actually been successfully fined at all. I’d almost guarantee the majority of mechanics business if they actually have the equipment at all to test the difference in them won’t care they’ll just let the pound and a half of refrigerant out charge that puppy with the “correct” stuff and move on I’d be surprised if many of them even pull a vacuum on the system.

[@brucemills9146]

@@chrisperkins7067All 1234yf machines has a built in identifier or a identifier that has to be hooked to the machine for it to work. freon must pass identified before machine will work.

[@markcarr5142]

@@brucemills9146 bro, I've been in the car repair industry for over 20 years. I've never seen a federal agent, EPA, local officer or an OSHA inspector at any of the shops I've worked at. If we can get away with it, we're doing it.

[@Sportsmanshipflaws22]

i wouldn't worry about illegally removing refrigerant from the vehicle who cares right. doesn't that machine recover?

[@colbycattech2221]

The machine he is using is made for r134a. You are not supposed to ever mix refrigerants. If he would've used the machine to recover the 1234yf he would have contaminated the machine.

[@jims.3987]

Oh we got an EPA shill here.

[@colburnsmedley9152]

Time to convert it back to 1234yf 😄

[@rickjames6948]

Definitely. That vehicle was made for yf-1234. Adding another gas is wasting time, money and killing the atmosphere.

[@rickjames6948]

Guy has a refrigerant machine and looking to save a couple bucks with R134A??? WTF Kid probably has a $1500 cell phone.

[@bwilliams7686]

even with a machine.... i would convert it. why spend all that money. what if it passes the leak test then leaks down anyways. can easily waste big money.

[@allenallen7569]

The main problem is that it's a dodge...lol

[@erice5429]

Sorry, but why should anyone go back to R134a? R-1234yf is better for the environment. Yes, it is more expensive but it is worthy to protect our planet and future!

[@gilbertnunez732]

5 minutes vacuum? Really!

[@user-nq4em4tu3u]

Has a bad heater the refrigerant has to have a higher pressure than is in the system when ambient temp is high and especially under hood temps the heat soak will bring a static system above a bottle in the machine yeah pressure. It has to heat above the static pressure the purpose it has thats your problem.

[@NFSINSANE]

R1234 is terrible. The services take twice as long and the steps are significantly less user friendly. On top of that you have to worry about your car catching fire or exploding after if the ac leaks.

[@jims.3987]

That's so dumb. Ppl just hear dumb shit on the internet and run with it. Your car isn't going to burn up because of 2 bottles of gas in the AC. It's already got 20 gallons of highly flamable potentially explosive fumes in the back end.