DIY Tutorial - Proper R134a A/C charge & Diagnostics

DIY Tutorial - Proper R134a A/C charge & Diagnostics
Be sure to check out this pump and gauge/hose set so that you can try it out for yourself.. Here's the Amazon link:
www.amazon.com...
The other items I'm using in the video if you'd like to check them out:
R134a refrigerant: amzn.to/3Tno1Sx (this is a 3 pack)
Digital scale: amzn.to/3wXYqYK
Safety glasses with splash protection: amzn.to/3wXWPCe
Mechanics gloves (the best I've found): amzn.to/4cb5ocS
This is my honest review and I am glad you are here.
I talk about the details and benefits of this A/C vacuum pump and manifold gauge hose set--that I recently purchased--that I can safely say you don't want to miss out on. You can use this kit with any R134a refrigerant system, which is pretty much any vehicle from year model 1996 to 2020. Instead of taking your car into an expensive repair shop the next time your AC system goes out on you, try tackling the issue yourself, you might surprise yourself!
I'll tell you about my experience with this awesome little kit, and we'll actually use it on my car today. My air conditioning system has not been blowing cold as of late. I want to do a proper evacuation and recharge, so I spent less than $200 for the tools and the refrigerant I need instead of taking the car to a mechanic.
I thought that I only had a small refrigerant leak before I started, but it turns out with the help of this kit I found I had a restriction in the low side of the system. I wouldn't have known if I didn't do a proper AC evac/recharge first so I could eliminate that as a source of the no-cooling problem. By reading the gauges after the charge was complete, I could see that there was something else that I needed to work on.
I'll post a part 2 to the video when I do the actual repair that fixes my issue on my 2012 Honda Civic.
Many folks are afraid to try and charge their AC system, but after you watch this video you'll gain confidence, and you'll save yourself money and time by giving it a try on your own. This is totally DIY, you'll see. (Do It Yourself)
This little vacuum pump and manifold gauge set really is a must have, in my opinion, when you want to make sure the job is done right.
This review is for the VIVOHOME 110V 1/3 HP 4CFM Single Stage Rotary Vane Air Vacuum Pump and R134a AC Manifold Gauge Set Kit with Leak Detector Carry Bag for HVAC Air Conditioning Refrigeration Recharging ETL Listed, found on Amazon.
Be sure to check out the link at the top of this description section.
And see all my Amazon Product Reviews Here:
www.amazon.com...
I strive to give you my honest opinion about all products that I do a review on. I hope it helps!
Please support my channel by subscribing here on KZbin, and checking out all my product reviews on my Amazon storefront by clicking the link above.
Thanks!
#amazonfinds #amazonmusthaves
A little note: As an Amazon Associate/Influencer I earn from qualifying purchases, and that means if you purchase anything from Amazon a result of clicking on one of my links above, you are helping to support my family just a tad. Thanks so much in advance.

[@pyrathian]

This guy sounds so positive calm and peaceful like Bob Ross. He's the Bob Ross of AC systems.

[@my-honest-review]

@@pyrathian Love it, I appreciate that! 🎨

[@KefirTView]

I've been watching over 20 AC recharging videos via KZbin. This one BY FAR is the best video with narrated details out there + the bonus you added (when things don't go as planned and why)! - Thanks! 😁

[@my-honest-review]

Glad it was helpful! Funny thing was I was scared to do this on my own at first, just had to jump in and try! What encouraged me was that for the price of getting just one AC evac and recharge at my local shop, I could buy this kit and do it myself. Thanks for watching :)

[@globecomputers1]

I agree 1000% I hope his future videos are like this! He’s awesome!

[@mercorey3258]

This was/is an extremely excellent explanation on how to not only add refrigerant to your system but how to also use the A/C Manifold Gauges which have always intimidated me for not knowing what lines to open and closed and when to open and close them. Great Job!

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate you watching and I am glad it helped! Yes, the manifold gauge set (and understanding how to read it) is why I think most people don't want to tackle the project, but the learning curve is really not all that steep once you get into it. I think the bottom line is just get in there and try it, and don't be in a hurry. Thanks again!

[@rebadaddy]

I have seen multiple of these AC recharge videos but I have learned the most from yours today. It was never fully explained before on exactly when to open and close the port valves and that leads to the intimidation about manifold gauges that other people have mentioned. You explained that well and took away the mystery. I feel confident that I can now evacuate and recharge my system. Thank you.

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for hanging out with me today, and I'm so glad you found some value in the video! Yes indeed... WHAT knob to turn WHEN in the process tripped me up constantly when I was first learning. Once you do it a few times, then it becomes a lot easier.

[@upaiaq]

Thank you for this, I followed all the steps exactly and now the AC is blowing cold. I feel both confident and competent with your instruction, thank you sir! I believe even after buying all the tools I still saved money as opposed to having a shop do it.

[@my-honest-review]

@@upaiaq That is super terrific 👏 I love hearing success stories like yours. Thanks for sharing! And yes indeed, you saved money I'm sure, and now you have the tools in case you ever need them in the future.

[@songsfromthelord888]

Thanks for taking the time to make a very helpful AC evac/recharge video. Remember, that God loves you! 🙂

[@my-honest-review]

@@songsfromthelord888 Thank you for hanging out with us, and God bless you 🙏

[@jonna3802]

Thank you for this comprehensive video, you explain the little things that most people forget to mention in other videos. Great stuff!

[@my-honest-review]

@@jonna3802 Thanks Jonna! I'm glad you found it helpful 👍

[@russelkins141]

Best video on correctly doing a recharge. Thank you.

[@my-honest-review]

@@russelkins141 Much appreciated Russ! Glad you found it helpful brother 👍

[@roccozarcone4393]

Great video right down to the last second thank you so much been very helpful😊

[@my-honest-review]

@@roccozarcone4393 I'm so glad you found some value in it, thanks for hanging out!

[@patm2543]

Excellent video! Especially explaining purging air in 1st can but not needing to purge air from 2nd can. Too many other YT videos skip this step

[@my-honest-review]

Glad it was helpful, and yes I had to research that part myself pretty extensively. Thanks for watching!

[@ricky33183]

Thanks for the video. It answered my question if vacuuming the system would also remove the oil 👍👍 now I know only air and moisture 👍

[@my-honest-review]

You are welcome, glad it helped. Yes, you only have to worry about adding PAG oil into the system if you replace a component. Thanks for watching!

[@richmartin505]

Fantastic video and great instruction. You can't go wrong after watching this. Thanks for taking the time to be so thorough and clear, and for the great editing.

[@my-honest-review]

@@richmartin505 I appreciate the feedback Rich, sometimes the video editing takes longer than the job itself! Thank you for hanging out, and glad it helped 👍

[@jeffreyjohnson3174]

best video ive seen on car a.c systems

[@my-honest-review]

Appreciate that Jeffrey, glad it helps a tad and thanks for watching!

[@christophergoodwin6846]

Super helpful, my gauge set that I rented was a bit different than my buddies, he has a check valve on the yellow hose so he didn’t need to purge the line like with this set. So this video explained those crucial small details that I needed to see. Thanks you.

[@my-honest-review]

Thanks for watching Christopher, yes that's one thing for sure that'll make or break your results when charging. Found out the hard way a time or two in years past! Take care.

[@HailAnts]

Very well done video! Clear, slow, and step by step. Only comment I'd make is that if your car is at least ten years old or more and your AC stops working you should probably replace both your condenser and the expansion valve before doing this. They get clogged over time. If your compressor died (sounds like it's full of rocks) you _have_ to replace the condenser (as well as the compressor) because it will definitely be full of debris from the bad compressor. If you wait until after recharging it like this you'll lose the two cans of R-134a you put in because you have to disconnect the lines to replace the condenser and expansion valve. A can of R-134a is only $10 but still. Also don't skip the step where you purge the air out of the line after attaching the can of R-134, that's why that valve is on the manifold.

[@my-honest-review]

Great advice and thanks for watching 💯👍

[@wendellsmith1349]

best video on AC recharging

[@my-honest-review]

@@wendellsmith1349 Much appreciated! Glad you found it helpful 💯

[@joeianniello]

Outstanding Video. Thank you

[@my-honest-review]

@@joeianniello You're welcome Joe, thanks for hanging out today!

[@paulkennedy5822]

Excellent video. Detailed and informative. You have an excellent presentation manner and I am subscribing. One thing I might add is that I was a little surprised that you turned your compressor on while the system was in vacuum. Usually the low pressure switch would prevent the compressor from running until you had enough pressure to satisfy it. I think you maybe should have put a half a charge in, turned the a/c on and monitored whether the compressor was running by observing the compressor clutch.

[@my-honest-review]

@@paulkennedy5822 I appreciate you following along and appreciate the feedback! Yes, that is the way I have always been taught, and seems to work, but I'm sure your way would be just fine as well 👍

[@yabasvlog3439]

Nice tuturial bro

[@my-honest-review]

@@yabasvlog3439 Appreciate ya!

[@timford5390]

LOVE your mannerisms and easy going description of the process. Thank you for putting this up!

[@my-honest-review]

Glad it was helpful Tim and thanks for hanging out with me!

[@Autotruck7213]

Thank you sir you answered the 1 Millions question in my mind, do not use oil additives if you did not replace or open the system or component, I don't think i seen any other videos that said what you did. So thanks again and great vid..

[@my-honest-review]

Hey, thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped! Yep, just straight refrigerant unless a component is replaced 👍

[@ironheadhooligan]

Very helpful and very informative, thank u very much

[@my-honest-review]

I'm so glad it was helpful and thanks for hanging out!

[@jorgeaguila6774]

Excellent Tutorial & concise explanation, THANK YOU!

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help and thanks for the feedback Jorge!

[@setoman1]

Very nice! I’ll be ditching R-134a and switching to HC-12a just to eek out a little more cooling out of my anemic sports car A/C. Should be good!

[@-mejor-que-nostradamus-6152]

I Did Many A/C Vehicles Without Gauges, Vacuum And shetty, I Did Change Compressors, Condenser And Evaporators Without Machines And It Did Work 100% Same As Using Machines. Amén.

[@samuelabebe1354]

Thanks for sharing! Great narration and easy to follow steps. One of the best videos ive seen on topic. I would add UV dye refrigerant next time so i can see where the leak is at with blue light.

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate you watching, and yes I think the next time I go thru the trouble, I will add just a little dye. Can't hurt!

[@VideoGames-lm2eq]

Great Video. There are 3 refrigerant types in the past 30-35 years: 1. R12 which was no longer used after 1995 (approximately). 2. R134A used early 90's up until approximately 2013-2015 when auto manufacturers started converting to R1234YF. 3. R1234YF which is the present industry standard. All manufacturers started switching around 2013-2015 and it is hit or miss from there if it has this freon or R134. 9:37 Im assuming those who are using R12 will need to look into converting to R134A and those who have a newer car with R1234YF need to take the car to a licensed repair facility for the Evacuation and recharge process. Be prepared because the freon cost is very high compared to R134a. R134a is around $10/lb whereas R1234yf is about $100/lb. I hope this helps.

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate that! Yes as far as the R1234yf is concerned I do not have much experience with that simply because its so new that most vehicles on the road that use it (with a few exceptions) are so new they're still under factory warranty. Give it a few years however and I will be experimenting with it I'm sure 👍

[@ko2890]

Excellent job! Perfect explanation thorough and at just the right speed for us idiots!!

[@my-honest-review]

@@ko2890 I appreciate the feedback and glad it helped a bit! And believe me, AC work is indeed tedious, so we all need to take it slow 🐌 (unless of course you're a pro at it)

[@greenlener]

THE BEST VIDEO.

[@my-honest-review]

@@greenlener I appreciate you hanging out Spencer, glad it helped!

[@bryce1916]

This was very informative as you covered everything very well Thanks .

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help a little Bryce! Thanks for watching my friend.

[@mojikarimi5717]

Wow, amazing explanation and presentation , thank you

[@my-honest-review]

My pleasure, hope it helped, thanks for watching!

[@joseaguilar5020]

The best video I had seen thank you

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks so much for watching, glad to help!

[@jeffcothrun653]

Thank you Sir, very good explanation, much appreciated

[@my-honest-review]

You're welcome Jeff, I'm glad it was helpful sir, thanks for hanging out!

[@LADLAK]

Great video

[@my-honest-review]

@@LADLAK Thank you and hope it helped a little!

[@paulspooner-q6k]

to up your game get yourself a micron gauge and learn to use it ,you will be blown away at what guys doing ac is missing. i got deeper in this ac work myself and without the micron gauge you never see the moisture you're leaving in your system . we were taught 1hr vac and everything is good but the micron gauge will show you what your missing

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for the tip! I've never heard of one before. I'll have to do a bit of research on that!

[@paulhughy3948]

Great vid sir Thank you for all the time you spent helping us shade tree mechanics save sum $$$$ I bought the kit from amazon and fixed not one vehicle but 2 ! A 2009 dodge ram an a 1999 Jeep wrangler only prob I had was the leaks in both truck and jeep were buried in the dash and had to remove to replace the evaporator core's LOL what a job they were to do but could not have done it myself without your Great video ! Thank you............Ohh BTY I found the leak by poring sum UV liquid in the shrader valve and no sign of leaks till I removed the dash an the evaporator lit up like an X'Mas tree with a UV lite !!

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for that feedback Paul, and I'm glad you fixed your issue! Man, replacing those evaporators can be a challenge for sure, it sounds like you are a step above just a shade tree mechanic brother! Oh, and FYI... I learned something just the other day... To help diagnose a leaking evaporator, shine your UV light on the condensate that drips on the ground and the dye will show up there...who knew?

[@paulhughy3948]

@@my-honest-review Oh yea the drain hose too ! After I had my air box off i did just that and of course you were right about that but any hoo i had to dig deep to replace the evaporator...... Cold air in both vehicles now thanks to you....Please keep posting your a wealth of knowledge sir....Oh yea I put the old evaporator in a bucket of water an blew in compressed air an Bubbles galore showing me exactly were the leak was

[@my-honest-review]

@@paulhughy3948 now that's a good tip right there - putting it in water and blowing air thru it, always good to find that "smoking gun"! Thanks for the encouragement my friend👍

[@my-honest-review]

Part 2 now up! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4Glq2iVoLxpp5Y (and make sure you read down in the description of the video as well..)

[@CWK090]

Excellent video! The best I have seen! Well done! Minor point but I believe you misspoke starting at 3:25 when you said "The high side valve (coupling) is too big to go on this fitting (pointing at the low side port) and the low side valve (coupling) is too small to go on this fitting (pointing at the high side port)

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate that! I may have gotten my words jumbled up there, thanks for pointing that out!

[@CWK090]

I listened to it again and you were right, I was wrong. Senior moment I guess. ;-) My apologies. Excellent video!@@my-honest-review

[@my-honest-review]

@@CWK090 I appreciate you! (It can get a little confusing)

[@kirkbrown2147]

Vacuum also removes oil from the system, not all but alot. You need pag oil for ac to top it up. You don't need to vacuum twice. When you vacuum to check for leaks, you don't have to vacuum again to ad refrigerant.

[@my-honest-review]

What I tell folks that if they are worried that they have lost any oil during the vacuuming process, is that its certainly not going to hurt anything to add an ounce or so when doing a charge. And as far as the vacuuming twice, you are correct as long as when you vacuum the first time you do it for a whole hour. I just like to know upfront (before vacuuming for that whole hour) whether or not the system is sealed. That's why I do it for 15 minutes, check for leaks, then continue on with the complete vacuum. Hope that makes sense.

[@MM-sq5pf]

I wish the shops in my area were as honest as yours, these will say your ac compressor is dead when its just to low on refrigerant to kick on

[@my-honest-review]

@@MM-sq5pf It is indeed tough to find a good mechanic. Thats why I am such an advocate of doing what you can to your own vehicle without having to take it in to get it serviced. Sometimes it is necessary to go to a shop...and when that time comes, you just have to ask around, see who your family/ friends use, and read Google reviews. That's your best bet.

[@bal4cars]

This video could pass for official automotive training

[@my-honest-review]

Much appreciated, thanks for hanging out!

[@G-88]

Good job thanks for the informative video.

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help, and thanks for hanging out with me today!

[@CodycoWeb]

Great advice about checking the caps. They are the primary seal for the system and should be inspected fully and even replaced when servicing the system. They hold the refrigerant in the system not the shrader valve. The shrader valve is only there to allow you to connect and disconnect the gauges, they are not designed to hold the refrigerant in the system.

[@my-honest-review]

Great point! One time, I took my car into the shop for an unrelated repair and I asked them to go ahead and do a AC evac and recharge on my system while there. I got my car back and all was okay. Until I raised the hood to inspect. They had left my caps off my AC ports. I couldn't believe it, I had confidence in that shop until then!

[@hari4406]

Primary seal is Schrader valve. Caps are secondary and mostly to protect against debris getting into valves.

[@melrobinson6919]

​​@@hari4406 That is correct. Why anyone would think the caps keep the system sealed with refrigerant and not the schrader valve is a head scratcher. That's like saying your car tire valve cap is what holds your air pressure.

[@hades78933]

great video , i had to watch 10 video for finally somebodpoint out to purge air in yellow hose before adding refrigerant.

[@my-honest-review]

Yes, I learned the hard way on that one! Thanks for watching, hope it helped a bit.

[@kvasir40]

Thank you for sharing this most instructional video. When there is a leak, and the PAC oil has also leaked as a result, how do we measure how much PAC oil needs to go back in?, without evacuating the A/C system, as it involves specialized equipment the DYI, most probably, does not have for the recovery. Or we just have to take it to the shop of the evacuation even if they charge (not all of them do it for free as it consumes time).

[@my-honest-review]

@@kvasir40 If your system has a leak, the oil that has leaked out is very very small. It's not necessary to add any when doing a recharge unless a component has been replaced. If you want to add an ounce or so of PAG oil when you do a recharge, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything if you just want to be cautious. Thanks for watching!

[@mikematthews234]

appreciation totally 🧰🛠️💪🏿🥂

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help Mike, thanks for watching!

[@darwinjaydelossantos1700]

yes the best video, sir im from Philippines i I joined to see your video, I'm aircon tech in the Philippines

[@my-honest-review]

Welcome, glad you are here! Thanks for watching

[@noelrichardson2094]

I loved your video.

[@my-honest-review]

@@noelrichardson2094 I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for hanging out!

[@unabridgeddick6645]

Thank you. Very nice video

[@my-honest-review]

You're welcome, glad to help, thanks for hanging out!

[@jamesmetz5147]

Thanks You, very useful.

[@my-honest-review]

Thank you for hanging out James, glad it helped a bit!

[@perryberens618]

Very good. One question on vacuuming: on final 1 hr draw down did you use new dry oil to avoid the first vacuum moisture saturating oil? My first draw down on my system was pretty cloudy after using it cleared but I was thinking that wet oil was why auto stores rent you dry pumps and you buy new oil. Just curious. Very thorough video.

[@my-honest-review]

@@perryberens618 Hey thanks for hanging out today. The oil in the pump itself does get a little cloudy over time, but it doesn't effect the vacuuming process of your ac system. You just have to make sure it stays above the minimum level so the pump will not burn out. Hope that helps!

[@garrettforchrist2700]

Excellent video! To bad you have to evacuate it all again to fix it!🇺🇲✝️🇺🇲

[@my-honest-review]

Thanks for watching! Yep, had to start all over. But it was indeed the thermal expansion valve...video up soon to show replacement.

[@techoldie932]

👍👍👍 das beste Video

[@my-honest-review]

@@techoldie932 much appreciated! Thanks for the support 👍

[@globecomputers1]

Awesome video thanks!!

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for the feedback, I'm glad you found some value in it 👍

[@globecomputers1]

I sure did! This was very clear and detailed.

[@TheFlyingZulu]

9:52 when you have a shop evacuate your system like you said you did... the oil will be removed from the compressor and you'll need to add the oil back in... I'd bet a dollar that your compressor seized up a few months later. Modern cars uses the a/c compressor to help defrost windows even when on the "hot" setting. So if you use your defroster during the winter your a/c compressor will still come on.

[@my-honest-review]

Thanks for the input, but all is well, and my system is blowing cold still. No oil comes out actually when doing the evacuation. Only air and moisture. I was confused on that myself when learning about AC systems. PAG oil only needs to be added when replacing a component like the compressor. Hope this helps you.

[@edwardellis7611]

Nice video I have gauges I've got to get a vacuum pump. My AC is not working I did diagnostics and my low pressure is high around 85 PSI when it should be 32-55psi temperature and humidity dependent. My High Pressure is running 100psi should be in the 200psi range. My suspicion is its the evaporator coil or expansion block The compressor is quiet and clutch engages. My next steps are to check for a leak as soon as I get a pump and get the readings from the compressor clutch relay just to rule it out. Really hope its not the evaporator coil as the entire dash has to be removed and is easily a 10 hour job. Expansion block can be replaced in 30 minutes to an hour. The vehicle is an 07 Tundra. Great through explanation.

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate you watching! Yes in your situation I'd do a total evacuation with that vacuum pump when you get one, then you can see if your system holds vacuum in the process (if it doesn't, you have a leak somewhere). I'll say a prayer for you that you don't have to do your evaporator coil!

[@michaelsaucier3157]

Do I have to do the whole Evacuation job just to replace one of the short hoses?

[@my-honest-review]

Yes, any break in your system to replace a part, and you'll have to evacuate.

[@Jansenwilliams6494]

Do have a video fixing the problem or diagnosising the restriction !

[@my-honest-review]

Sure thing, check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4Glq2iVoLxpp5Ysi=5LBM0GnRWNT3KgIm

[@mazdaland9627]

Excellent Video! Two Thumbs Up 👍😎👍 Both Videos are Very Well Done and It's a LOT of Extra Work to Take Video and Talk About the Process. Very Time Consuming. Thank you very much!

[@my-honest-review]

Too kind, thank you 😊 I'm glad it turned out helping a few folks!

[@miguelperez-qk3no]

Very good video. Shouldn't the valves be closed before turning the vacuum pump off?

[@my-honest-review]

Appreciate that, thanks for watching. And yes, it's a good idea to close those manifold valves down before turning vacuum off to be extra safe.

[@Kenichi_one]

I have a question, other videos say to never open the red valve for the high side. But here it was opened. I am confused.

[@my-honest-review]

@@Kenichi_one Totally understandable, good question.. And the simple answer is this: Use the high side (along with the low side) when vacuuming the system out. And use only the low side when adding the refrigerant after the vacuuming process. If you are using the gauge set to only add refrigerant to begin with (not going thru the whole vacuuming process) then you're only using the low side. Hope that helps!

[@Kenichi_one]

@@my-honest-reviewthanks, I get it now :)

[@stevemitchell238]

I vacuumed my system for 30 minutes and let it stand for 30 minutes to see if I have a tight system all my O rings are sealing and no leaks then I open the A/C coolant fro a minute then start my car and put the A/C on high cool then I finish fill ing the system to the factory scaled amount and presser. then let it run for 15 to 20 minutes let it cycle to check clutch engagement look for belt sliping on the pulleys to see if my pressure switch is working at the right temperature then I know my system is working at its best cooling .

[@my-honest-review]

Thank you for sharing Steve, it sounds like your system is working good and has no leaks. Great work!

[@stevenjohnson1756]

I need help. I was going to comment on what a fine video you have shared once I got finished with the procedure, but I got stopped cold! Everything was going fine until I began to add the gas. At that time the gauges were sitting at -30 psi on both. I had pulled a hard vacuum, and it held overnight. When I opened the low side valve to begin the charge, it didn’t suck the refrigerant in like yours did. It initially jumped about 25 psi, then it stopped. After a long time of coaxing, I was able to get one can emptied and the pressures were about 75 and 100, low and high. I hooked the second can in and that was it; I couldn’t get any of it to go in. I closed everything up as it was since it was getting dark. The only way that I deviated from your procedure was I wanted to add some dye during the charge so I could find a leak. Before connecting the first can of R-134A to the manifold, I added about ¼ oz of dye into the charging hose. I know this comment section is not the place for a long troubleshooting discussion, so I welcome a pointer to a proper forum. And, your videos are great!

[@my-honest-review]

Hey Steven, thanks for watching buddy. So, a couple of things...One, it's a pain, but you are going to have to start over and go thru the vacuuming process again. This time I would not worry about adding dye when charging. If your system held 30in of vacuum overnight, you don't have a leak, that's for sure. If you do, it's a very very tiny one. And now when adding that second can... it can be painfully slow. Just to give you an example, I did an evac and recharge on a much larger system a couple days ago that held 29oz (twice as much as my Civic in the video) and it took me over and hour to massage that whole amount in there. That system took about 2.5 cans. With that in mind, here's a couple of tricks you can try... Wait until it's hot outside to retry, above 90deg, you'll get better results. Double up and put 2 fans in front of the car. Sometimes you have to twist the valve on the top of the can slightly back and forth to find that sweet spot for the system to accept it. And lastly, when you are "dipping" the can, squeeze it slightly to increase the pressure in it (slightly). (And of course make sure your compressor is cycling on during this process..if it's not, you may have found your issue) Hope that helps!

[@stevenjohnson1756]

@@my-honest-review Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I am going to have to be away from this job for the rest of today. I’ll summarize what I have done up to now and get back on it tomorrow, and I will try your suggestions. Yesterday, I did restart from scratch and got same result. This time the first can seemed to go in a little faster, but it stopped before emptying completely. I put on can 2 to see if the higher pressure would drive it in, but no. After a couple of hours I stopped. The pressures were 76 and 100 low and high. The compressor did come on but did not cycle. The vent air temperature began at 82 and was 107 when I quit. There is more to this problem than a recharge I believe. Later…

[@melrobinson6919]

​@@stevenjohnson1756So did you ever get this resolved?

[@trencher7]

So you really only open the high side when vacuuming out? Close for everything else?

[@my-honest-review]

@@trencher7 You got it 👍

[@dasvon]

Small point, but each can has 12 oz of refrigerant. So you should weigh the empty first can and subtract that from the weight of the second can (assuming a perfect 12 oz in each can) then from that result, take out the 3 ounces you need. You can always add a smidge more if needed. Excellent video. Very clear and good to add the nuances that most leave out. It helps the idiots like me to better understand not only what's going on but also why.

[@my-honest-review]

That is a good way to measure the exact amount, thanks for that tip! Hey us shade tree mechanics have to help each other, so glad I could help just a tad, and thank you for the encouragement 😊

[@williamarias444]

Excelente video,

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help, thanks for watching. That gauge set really was a good investment for me..

[@wat_cher]

fine video well done

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for watching, I'm glad you found some value in it 👍

[@wat_cher]

@@my-honest-review I have a conundrum question for you though, is there anything specific that would cause the manifold hoses to get hot during a re-charge failure and anything specific to a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS

[@my-honest-review]

@@wat_cher The high side manifold hose getting warm or even hot closer to the fitting on the AC system is normal but the low side should not be. It sounds like your compressor may not be clicking on to draw the refrigerant in. If it is however clicking on, it may be something as simple as the valve that fastens on your can is freezing up and not allowing the refrigerant to pass. Just playing with the valve, twisting back and forth, will often get things going again. And if the system has indeed managed to accept all the refrigerant, but that low side line is still warm, and no AC, either the compressor is not doing its job, or you may have a restriction somewhere like in the expansion valve. Hope this helps!

[@dennissecor8092]

Great video thank you for sharing this!

[@my-honest-review]

@@dennissecor8092 You're most welcome Dennis, I'm glad it helped a bit, thanks for hanging out!

[@SeanDoe86]

After pulling the vacuum and doing everything I was supposed to, my first can did not go in quickly like you said. Out of about 11 oz it only took 3 oz, never took any more and the clutch never engaged. Had to start all over. Why would it do that?

[@my-honest-review]

@@SeanDoe86 On some AC systems the compressor is very stubborn to engage when doing a recharge. Try taking a dish cloth and running it under hot water and wrapping it around the can while trying to get it to go in, even squeezing the can slightly. Also, "play with" the valve on top of the can, twisting it back and forth as sometimes it will freeze up. Until your system "sees" enough refrigerant in the system it will not allow the compressor clutch to engage. It takes a bit of time. Ultimately, if you may have to jump the compressor to force it to come on to take the refrigerant, but do that as a last resort. Hope this helps!

[@wm.donaldholmes5010]

Great video! Best of the many that I have watched on the subject! How do you know if you have enough (or too much) oil in the ac system after replacing the dryer ( 1986 Mazda RX-7). I will recharge with Envirosafe after vacuuming. Thank you.

[@my-honest-review]

Hey thanks for watching and glad you found some value in it! If the drier is the only component replaced, you might could add 1 to 1.5 oz of oil with your refrigerant charge and you should be OK. I wouldn't add anymore than that.

[@my-honest-review]

I hope you get something out of this review. See the description of the video for the link to my Amazon storefront to explore this DIY a/c vacuum pump and manifold gauge set a bit further. And stay tuned, I'll post a part 2 when my car (2012 Honda Civic) is all fixed.

[@summerforever6736]

Great info sir!! Do you have a other vid o when you fix the other problem with the AC?

[@my-honest-review]

Appreciate ya watching and yes here is the link to the Expansion valve replacement kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4Glq2iVoLxpp5Ysi=QDzoMAmJ8ScbX2EN That fixed my problem!

[@ernestkanu1247]

Thanks, just bought the same system and the instruction manual not great.

[@my-honest-review]

Glad to help, yes I learn better by watching someone actually doing while explaining, so take your time and watch some KZbin tutorials like I did. I tried to put my own spin on my tutorial here, adding my 2 cents. Oh...and it's ok to mess up and have to start over, btw.

[@ZombieGameZ]

Does the evacuate with the pump take out the refrigerant, or only air and moisture? Also we did an evac after installing a new compressor, the most we could get is 24, not 30. But it held and didnt leak. We added refrigerant but not the full amount to make sure compressor turned on. After a few mishaps, hubby had left the high side hose open and it wouldnt charge fully. We left it till we figured out what to do next. Did an evac again and added r134a again. He disconnected it all but it needs more refigerant. Can we add more without doing an evac or do we have to recover all we added and refill again? 😅 great video also, most dont walk through important steps, like closing high side on manifold!

[@my-honest-review]

@@ZombieGameZ Hi there, thanks for hanging out! When you hook the vacuum pump up, you're only drawing out air and moisture. Refrigerant will have already been reclaimed at that point (most shops will do this at no charge...you just have to call around). Now... at the stage of the game you're at, you can try to "top it off", but you'll need to bleed the air out of the blue line as well when you have it all hooked back up. And do that by cracking the blue line itself at the manifold to let the refrigerant in the system backfeed up thru the hose. Then close it back and you're good to go. Of course bleed the yellow line as well like in the video. High side doesn't even need to be hooked up at all. If all else fails, just start over.. painful but necessary. Hope this helps!

[@ZombieGameZ]

@@my-honest-review thank you for the response!

[@my-honest-review]

@@ZombieGameZ my pleasure 😊

[@verdw6587]

Only one issue. The yellow hose once disconnected from the vacuum pump will fill with atmospheric, so will be introducing air into your system 😕😕

[@my-honest-review]

You are correct, and this is why you have to purge the air from the yellow hose with the Schrader valve at the top when introducing the first can to the system.

[@MarzNet256]

Great video. Question: If I want to add 1-2oz of r134a , can I purge the low side line where it connects to manifold? It would be the same idea as the yellow line but using the refrigerant already in the system vs from the can. Thanks.

[@my-honest-review]

Indeed, you certainly can, and that's a great idea by the way. If you aren't going to vacuum the system and you are using the the manifold gauge set (and just topping it off like you suggest), you definitely would want to get that air out of that blue low pressure line, and by cracking it at the manifold end, you'd achieve that. Alternatively, you can just get one of those short hoses like in a previous video I did (find it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqrRgX9mmqyAe9Usi=6zxnlwLEepiTzOsV ) and attach your can directly to it. They are so short that the air in them are negligible, and great for top offs. Hope this helps!

[@MarzNet256]

@@my-honest-review Cool. Imma purge both blue and yellow lines. Not touching closed high side valve on Manifold. Thanks!

[@my-honest-review]

@@MarzNet256 You're welcome 👍

[@josecruz4959]

So if I do the same steps like you, I don’t need to add refrigerated oil to the sistem?

[@my-honest-review]

@@josecruz4959 that is correct sir 👍

[@dgmenace73]

Such an informative & thorough tutorial! I enjoyed this. Thanks. I am working on a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited w/5.2L , 134A refrigerant. The compressor is short cycling. On for 5-10 sec off for aprx 20 sec. With vehicle off both low & high sides are reading aprx 77psi. When on and comp is running the low side drops to 35 then back up to aprx 75 when comp stops. The high side drops to aprx 75psi then up to aprx 100-105. I can't get it to take freon? Its blowing very warm air, short cycling, then won't take the freon.....do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[@my-honest-review]

@@dgmenace73 Appreciate you hanging out Dennis! Ordinarily what I would say to the problem of short cycling is that you may have too much freon in the system. So definitely make sure that is not the issue. If any doubt, evac and start over to double check. Other than that...its either going to be a bad cycle switch or bad compressor more than likely. You can also try jumping the compressor to force it to stay on while you are trying to do the freon charge (if, of course, you're sure that it doesn't have too much freon in there already) Hope this helps!

[@dgmenace73]

@my-honest-review sure did help! I jumped compressor out with gauges connected & watching pressure. Once I did that it started taking the freon with pressure of less than 80 on high side. After doing that for a couple minutes I reconnected compressor as normal and it kept running...took the freon but still a couple ounces low as far as I can tell. Air is cool but not cold. Must have been extremely low. Never had to do this before.

[@my-honest-review]

@@dgmenace73 Hey, that is awesome! Yep, sometimes compressors act wonky like that until it sees some freon in the system then they'll come alive. That's when jumping is necessary. And cool air is better than warm! You might wait a few days and try to top the system off. A healthy compressor will push somewhere North of 150-175 psi (high side) when the system is correctly charged, so keep that in mind.

[@MusicMinisterJP7]

Very good and concise procedure, right up to the part where you put the 12oz can on the scale, from which you needed just 3oz, but the weight was now 18.3oz bcuz of the hose. Then you proceeded to take 3oz from the 18.3oz, and be left with 15.3oz from a can that only has 12oz! I don't know if it's my mathematical calculation, but you should have been left with 9oz in the can, excluding the 7.3oz weight of the hose. I'm curious to know, did you weigh the can afterwards, to make sure you had 9oz left in it?

[@my-honest-review]

Indeed I did weigh it and it was very close. Whenever you have a can balanced on the scale with the weight of the hose, its not going to be dead-on. But luckily you have a range of refrigerant that the system requires, and not a very specific amount. And this gives you some wiggle room when trying to take a portion out of an additional can. Hope that helps!

[@MusicMinisterJP7]

@my-honest-review I can accept that. It was a nightmare for me, on my twin A/C unit of my 2015 Town&Country. Replaced the rear evaporator and expansion valve last summer, but made an error of using metal with rubber type O-ring at the upper portion, and just rubber on the lower connection, and being over cautious on the tightening to make the seal. Seems systrm leaked out bcuz I turned it on and air wasn't cold. Went under it yesterday and re-tightened 13mm nut. Gonna attach manifold hoses and check, re-add freon.

[@my-honest-review]

@@MusicMinisterJP7 Yes, I've heard the Town and Countrys have especially sensitive AC systems. I hope it works out!

[@AndrewCrawford-d5j]

just out of curiosity, if you knew the 134 was leaking, why did you not try using the leak detector?

[@my-honest-review]

@@AndrewCrawford-d5j Good question.. my reasoning was that I thought it was such a tiny seepage that the detector wouldn't have picked up on it. And it turns out I didn't have a leak at all. If you want, look in the description of this video and you'll find a link to Part 2, where I replaced the expansion valve.

[@capitalr8649]

If there is only 12oz in a can but it weighs 18oz, shouldn’t you take out 9oz then to fill it? The can makes it weigh more.

[@my-honest-review]

Taking into account that I only need 15 ounces, and 12 went in when finished with the first can, I only need to take 3 ounces out of the second can. And with the weight of the hose and all, you have to take that into consideration. That's why the second can is a relative measurement. If you set it up the same way as I did, you might being seeing 21 oz, or 23 oz (or something different) on your scale. And whatever number you see before you open that valve on that second can...just subtract 3 ounces from it, then shut it off (of course assuming you need 15 ounces total like I did). Hope that helps!

[@bryanst.martin7134]

You left out the line connectors. There are various types, like Toyota has theirs, and a couple other makers may too. "Gotta keep 'em coming to the dealer." So make sure you have the correct connectors for the vehicle. It used to be so easy. Now they have computers involved too.

[@my-honest-review]

@@bryanst.martin7134 Luckily, I haven't had to work on any of the newer vehicles that use the 1234yf refrigerant. That might be when you'll run into things like you mention. Everything is pretty standard on most R134a applications.

[@dabbergames3827]

Done the video step by step, and ac clutch won't engage unless I jump it, and the condenser fan won't engage unless I unplug the pressure switch

[@my-honest-review]

You may want to check your AC relay, it might be something as simple as that. They're cheap enough that if its original you may want to go ahead and replace it..

[@dabbergames3827]

@@my-honest-review I swapped with the starter relay and fuel pump relay. Same thing. I feel like it's the cycle switch or expansion valve

[@my-honest-review]

@@dabbergames3827 Yes, and between those two, sounds like the most reasonable choice would be the cycle switch. Electrical problem are always fun to track down!

[@dabbergames3827]

@my-honest-review right! The old compressor would kick on no problem. It just had a leak. Now the switch goes out with the new one lol. It held -30 pressure for a solid hour, so I know there's no leaks anywhere else.

[@dabbergames3827]

@my-honest-review thank you by the way!

[@ShowtimeWorthy]

When I add the R134, its spews out from high pressure line after condenser once the compressor kicks on

[@my-honest-review]

@@ShowtimeWorthy It sounds like you have to replace that line assembly from the condenser to the evaporator, not a bad job at all on alot of vehicles.

[@frankarcos6355]

wait if you close the valves on the manifold you are locking the pressure into the gauges aren't you?

[@my-honest-review]

@@frankarcos6355 The gauges are actually independent of the manifold valve position. In other words, they'll give you correct readings when the valves are closed.

[@craigbrandon4611]

🌈 ty

[@ericaviator8869]

Wouldn't the repair shop evac of the freon remove majority of oil as well ?? Which would be a problem if none is added during your recharge. And , maybe the "a" in R 134 is oil additive ? But thanks for posting.

[@my-honest-review]

Good question! Actually when an evacuation is done, only refrigerant, air, and moisture are removed. The oil stays in the system. You'll only have to add oil back into the system if you replace a large component like the compressor.

[@Bizija123]

There is definitely SOME pag oil removed when evacuation occurs. Maybe about 1 oz. Professional shop machines can separate this oil when recovering refrigerant and keep the freon pretty darn pure.

[@my-honest-review]

@@Bizija123 Just to be cautious, it will not hurt anything to add an ounce of oil with your refrigerant charge.

[@magicogonzalez3680]

Thanks for your information, friend: but I have a question: how could you see if the system was low enough in microns to be able to charge it? only

[@my-honest-review]

If your AC is still cooling, but it's just not as cold as it used to be, that's indicative of it being a little low on refrigerant and you can try to add just a little. If it doesn't help, then best to start from scratch like I did in this video.

[@yustendly2659]

After vacuuming, why didn't you add refrigeration oil?

[@my-honest-review]

Hi, thanks for watching. Oil is not necessary to add unless you have replaced a component. In this video I am only performing an evacuation and recharge.

[@nathanield.4527]

At 12:56 the can is frosting over, but your gauge pressures look very low. Am I not seeing that right?

[@my-honest-review]

Yes you are seeing that right. At this point, I would say only 1/4 to 1/2 of that first can had gone in and therefore the system didn't have all that much to work with in the way of building up pressure. It was going in pretty quick (typical for the first half of the first can) and therefore it was frosting that can up pretty good. As you add more refrigerant in the process, it starts to go in slower and you'll see the gauges start to normalize.

[@jamestoy3025]

When you add Freon in specially, when your system is empty, and the unit is not turned on, you can dump your Freon in as a liquid on the high side. Then, when you do the second can do it as a vapor if that way you’re compressor will engage.

[@my-honest-review]

@@jamestoy3025 I've heard of that being done, but never tried it. I can see how that would work in theory tho.

[@jamestoy3025]

@@my-honest-review I’m Hvac technician I have done it that way you can always ad Freon this way as long as the system is not running try it . I never put Freon in that way you take a chance of bending a valve in the compressor if you get to much liquid in the suction line

[@ljbrandt500]

great video, but i ran into 2 issues...I'm not 100% sure the can tap is sealed when ran all the way down (closed). per your recommendation, I tried to suck the refrigerant out of the yellow hose after closing the tap, but as soon as i opened the low side valve on the manifold, i started getting air/refrigerant escaping from the tap. I made sure it was 100% closed/twisted down. The other thing was that after disconnecting the manifold, there was still A LOT of pressure/refrigerant in the gauge and lines. Probably at least an ounce escaped when the manifold was opened after being disconnected from the vehicle. Thoughts?

[@ljbrandt500]

Note that this is done only after evacuating a system and charging it. If you're connecting a Manifold Gauge Set (MGS) to test the pressures alone, there will be some air and moisture in the hoses, which you don't want to draw into the system for obvious reasons. Here's the procedure after evacuating and charging a system, which must be done in this order: 1. With the engine running at a fast idle--about 1,800 RPM--the compressor engaged, and the MGS still connected to the A/C system and the refrigerant container, close the adapter connected to the system's high-side port AND the refrigerant container's valve to which the yellow hose is connected. The adapter connected to the low-side port remains in the open position. 2. Open both the high-side and low-side MGS hand-wheels. The system will quickly draw-in the pressurized refrigerant and oil from all three hoses through the blue low-side hose. 3. Disconnect the MGS from the system and the hoses from the MGS.

[@my-honest-review]

Yes this is a bit tricky. It sounds like to me tho that maybe your can valve/tap has a faulty seal inside of it, or maybe that is wasn't sealed onto your can perfectly. If your low side manifold valve was open, compressor was cycled on, then it should have drawn in at least a portion of the refrigerant remaining in your hoses. Sounds like it was "backfeeding" a bit in the other direction. Maybe the compressor wasn't cycled on at the time? And yes it seems inevitable that there will be some pressure still remaining in the manifold set after disconnecting. What I do now when I remove the manifold set and store it is that I leave the can valve/tap on the yellow hose in the closed position. This leaves less of a chance of air/moisture getting in the gauge set. Hope this helps!

[@ljbrandt500]

@@my-honest-review I think if I do this again, I'm going to be on the safe side and assume the can tap doesn't seal from the yellow line when all the way in the closed position. I'll just have to vent the yellow line every time I switch cans

[@my-honest-review]

@@ljbrandt500 I think that would be a safe bet for sure 👍

[@cookieheadjekins6344]

Very informative thanks for making this video. 👍🏻

[@my-honest-review]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SeanDoe86]

I pulled the vacuum there was nothing in my system. It held a vacuum. I put my first can on just like you did and it only took about 3 oz and then it stopped. Can never got cold and it never took any more. Had to redo it. The low pressure side shot up but why would it stop taking Freon and not engaging the clutch after only like 3 oz?

[@my-honest-review]

@@SeanDoe86 With some AC systems the compressor is very stubborn to engage when doing a recharge. Try taking a dish cloth and running it under hot water and wrapping it around the can while trying to get it to go in, even squeezing the can slightly. Also, "play with" the valve on top of the can, twisting it back and forth as sometimes it will freeze up. Until your system "sees" enough refrigerant in the system it will not allow the compressor clutch to engage. It takes a bit of time. Ultimately, if you may have to jump the compressor to force it to come on to take the refrigerant, but do that as a last resort. Hope this helps!

[@SeanDoe86]

@@my-honest-review thanks for responding! I actually jumped it with paperclip and it worked 👍 Forgot to plug something in so that may be reason compressor didn't start

[@SeanDoe86]

@@my-honest-review hoping jumping it prematurely didn't harm compressor tho

[@my-honest-review]

@@SeanDoe86 That's great, glad it worked out! And you're welcome glad to help out a bit.

[@my-honest-review]

@@SeanDoe86 No it shouldn't have, because as soon as the refrigerant started to flow it was being lubricated (and the compressor already has oil in it anyway).

[@PhanOT11]

I was at O’Riley Auto parts about to rent their AC gauges and Evac pump for DIY job. But they told me that I’m not supposed to DIY Evac in my garage. It has to be done by the ac professional/shop. So, what do you do with the evacuated refrigerant?

[@my-honest-review]

@@PhanOT11 If you have refrigerant still in your system you'll need to go to a local shop and ask them to reclaim it. Most shops will not even charge you because they benefit from "taking" your refrigerant and reusing it. Just tell them that's all you want done. Then, just proceed on at home with the vacuuming process.

[@sailorgary5795]

question: if there is a small leak in the system will outside air enter in through that leak while the system is under vacuum ?

[@my-honest-review]

It sure will, and you'll know that by the guages not holding at 30 inches of mercy when the vacuum pump is off.

[@theodio1]

Quck question. Is the car off during the discharge?

[@my-honest-review]

@@theodio1 Hi there, the car is off during the vacuuming process, yes.

[@bobisonline]

My particular vacuum pump is a single stage 4cfm but says has 30 minute duty cycle. Should I let it run for 30 then let it cool a few minutes then turn it back on?

[@my-honest-review]

That would be fine, and it wouldn't be any less effective on the vacuuming process either.

[@justaguy4real]

What is there's still Freon in there, or other oil? Aside from what you did, what if they didn't actually evacuate it all, then what would happen?

[@my-honest-review]

Good question! When an evacuation is done, it only gets out the freon, not any oil. Now, if they didn't evacuate all the freon, you'd know it when you pressed the schrader valve down on either ac port. If there's any pressure still in there, that means they didn't get it all out (you might get a small hiss instantaneously but that's normal). You shouldn't have to worry about the oil in the system when just doing a recharge, unless you think some has been added to the system when it should not have.

[@JDPlay25]

will my vacuum pump work on 25 to 26 inches of mercury? that's the maximum vacuum it can get

[@my-honest-review]

It will probably be just fine, I would just let it run longer, maybe an hour and 15 minutes. And then just make sure it holds vacuum of course, like I showed in the video.

[@roberthull4257]

I can't find a shop to reclaim my freon without a $100 fee for the evac. Any tricks to the process of getting a shop to take it without charging me? Hendersonville TN

[@my-honest-review]

@@roberthull4257 Unfortunately I have heard the same story from other folks who live in certain areas. It's hard to imagine a shop turning down free freon. But it happens. What you want to do is find a small mechanic that works on vehicles on the side and they have an AC reclaiming machine.. they will be tickled to take your refrigerant. Look on Marketplace for these guys, they're out there.

[@roberthull4257]

@@my-honest-review Thank you! That’s a great idea. I will do that right away.

[@suparee]

Hey there! Great video! We're quite interested in your posting content. We have some car related items. Do you accept sponsored products?

[@my-honest-review]

I appreciate you watching! Maybe in the future, but right now just focusing on building up content.

[@suparee]

It's alright. We have some car accessories are looking for free sponsorship. Just let us know if there are any chances to working with you!😘😘@@my-honest-review

[@Player-px8dl]

Better take that offer ! You did good man

[@my-honest-review]

@@Player-px8dl I appreciate that :)

[@halburke9115]

Does it make any difference if the angled side of the hose is in the port cover side or the gauge side? Thank you.

[@my-honest-review]

I am 99% sure it doesn't matter, but I have mine hooked up like the the instructions state, which is angled ends on the ports. It seems more natural this way too.

[@halburke9115]

@@my-honest-review thank you, I agree that it sees more natural