Copy of P200A intake manifold runner code 2011 kia sorento part 2.

Part 2- More info about how I made my own coupler on the actuator motor. At the very end my phone died but there wasn't much more I was going to say. Ask any questions and I'll answer them the best I can. Good luck.
Link to first video- • P200a intake manifold ...

[@spacemaster5206]

This part is $25 only on Ebay with free shipping

[@jamesruff6698]

Do you have link

[@fredbollinger509]

P200A - If you have a 2011 Kia from the video or 2012 Kia Sorrento like mine with a 2.4 L engine and your check engine light came on. Next step, is you found the P200A code from the check engine light. My car has 22K on it and the check engine light came on, I drove it problem-free for another 3K miles and then it took a nose dive, and would not go above 2K RPM's and the check engine light started Flashing. This video is perfect to help you understand how to fix the P200A issue. THANK YOU for taking your time to share the video, It is a big help. My story continues by, I was told by the Kia dealer in NJ that my car needed a new manifold. It was 800.00 and it would be a total of 1200.00 with labor. I found that I could order the manifold ( same item number as the one in the video from KiaParts.com for 560.00 if I wanted to install it myself- Manifold Assembly Intake - Kia (28310-2G071). I decided to get a second dealer quote and it was about the same price of 1150.00 for the Manifold replacement. After watching this video and seeing the metal part that was made ( great work) , I found a replacement coupler in the link below. I wanted to order it but it would take almost 2 weeks from Canada. My stubborn self decided to take the VCM motor out and try to fabricate a coupler like in the video, but from plastic like the replacement from Canada. I found a Pressure washer attachment wand that was exactly 15MM in diameter and cut a piece off, that was 12 MM long. I used a Dremel to grind out the VCM male rectangle on one side, and on the side (positioned opposite) I ground out the rounded center rectangle for the Manifold Runner Male connection. So from the video - it was made of metal, I made one of tough plastic. It looked almost exactly like the coupler in the link below. Except mine was not as perfect and it took me 4 tries to get it correct. For removal of the VCM follow the video. If you have this issue order the coupler if you can wait, it's much easier. After installing my homemade part, the flashing check engine light was still on. and the car still only revs to 2k RPM. I thought I failed. I tried to clear the light by removing the battery terminal to reset all of that is BS. Finally, I ordered a $25.00 MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2 Scanner Code Reader. To reset the codes correctly. it took some playing around and multiple resets to finally get the code to clear and it works. After the code reset with the Scanner the car RPM's now rev fully, and no check engine light. I took the car for a long 1-hour ride and added an injector and manifold cleaner to the gas to clear any crud from the manifold Runners. The car runs great. I suspect the metal part from the video looks great but may not sit as tight as the plastic one. IMPORTANT - The CODE MUST be REST with a Code scanner. The coupler part below looks great and is the only one I found out there online, I did not order it due to my lack of patience. Best of Luck, This is an easy engine to work on. Thank you again for this Video, You gave me the confidence to try this myself and you saved me 1200.00. (VCM Coupler Part Website ):Hyundai Kia Variable Cylinder Intake Actuator Motor COUPLER for vcm 28323-2G000 www.ebay.com/itm/114090784958?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D239178%26meid%3D070b171c56e048dd9374f286f1439469%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D402817404976%26itm%3D114090784958%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108 (VCM Coupler Part)

[@SerenoOunce]

OD is 15mm (anywhere from 1/2"-5/8" will be fine). Height is 12mm (a hair shorter is OK but any longer and it can cause binding). Key-ways are 6mm wide & deep The redesigned motor (28323-2G300) has the gearing recessed further back so the coupler is longer (21mm). The key-ways are also nearly parallel, 5-10 deg offset where the original is offset 90 deg. Dorman really has to step up and make these things. I made mine of of nylon spacers, 2-pack for $1.00.

[@jamalmakki3700]

Thank you very much.....

[@tannguyen95]

This is the first time I heard the words (Jimmy rigged) I grew up only hear the word N rigged . I learned new words every day. Please dont get mad at me English is my second language. Go pound sand.

[@havihav]

I fixed a 2012 kia forte sx 2.4 with code P200A with this issue i discontented the battery i removed the old manifold ,the new manifold come with the motor already installed on it but you gotta move a couple of brackets from the old manifold and maybe the PCV hose . took about 1.5hrs not long . reconnected the battery and just drove it the car will relearn and the code will not come back also if you get code P2191 ruff start when car is warm its your injectors that are not working correctly and malfunction once the car gets warm they leak and that is what causes that hard start when the car is warmed up trust me just get them changed very easy job total 10 min to change all injectors . or try the best fuel injector cleaner you can get see if fixes it if not its the injectors that need replacing . Trust me went crazy for a bit but it was the injectors . Car runs like new now .

[@gameroftheyear1000]

I have the P2004 code for the Runner control being stuck open in bank 1. I just picked up A new motor from the dealership and I’m hoping that will fix the problem. I checked the actuator and it will move on it’s own when revving the engine up to about 3,500-5,000rpms and then the car stops itself I guess as failsafe to keep the engine from redlining. I also saw a could move the actuator pump by hand and it moved smooth so I’m hoping it’s just this motor that’s gone bad and needs replacing as it has 80K into it. I’m gonna take the intake off to clean it up and check out the flaps to see what’s going on there but the solenoid looks to be fine and seems like it may be the motor

[@zx9green791]

Let us know how it goes.

[@bigmanracing300]

Mine is the same . What was the fix and how much did it cost ?

[@gameroftheyear1000]

@@bigmanracing300 so it turns out it was the motor that that sits on the left side of the intake manifold that was popping up the light and I did the repair myself. The part however with a 20% discount was still about $350 for the part. If I had them do it, it would of cost around $300 for labor.

[@alabamadan]

@@gameroftheyear1000 what’s the part number or part name that you replaced on the left side?

[@sashar4899]

I have the same error code. How to disconnect the connector it needs to press or just pullup?

[@DaRealG2Productions]

Where did you find a air intake manifold for the kia at??? I got a 2012 base model kia sorento and cant find one anywhere.

[@zx9green791]

I think I said the website in the video. I can't remember off the top of my head. If you can't find it you might have to go to the dealership.

[@edbond7494]

can you show the video of how you made the coupler?

[@fisqual]

The coupler is weak so when the runners get clogged up with carbon deposits it doesn't break the little motor/actuator. So while your metal coupler is a good idea in theory, in practice it's designed to sacrifice a much smaller part than the whole manifold or the actuator motor. But then again you say that your actuator actually failed so maybe even the plastic coupler is still too strong for it. Lol. ...and the dealership is lazy and doesn't want you to come back for the same issue so they just replace everything.

[@TheInternalwisdom]

its the second time on mine.. im wondering if PVC pipe would do the job?

[@fisqual]

@@TheInternalwisdom actually that sounds perfect and still sacrificial if need be.

[@TheInternalwisdom]

would 8t work to make it out of pvc pipe?

[@carlosvalenzuela186]

I can’t find where is it at ?

[@fabiosolanorichmond5837]

DONDE PUEDO CONSEGUIR ESA VALVULA SELENOIDE

[@1466830]

If the coupler is broken would it prevent the vehicle from starting?

[@zx9green791]

No, it should still start. I drove mine for 6 months with the broken coupler. Finally had to fix it so i could pass emissions.

[@1466830]

@@zx9green791 Just an update. The coupler wasn't broken but I did have a P200A code and the mechanic did say the part was broken, just not the coupler. The vehicle wouldn't start and replacing the whole assembly did fix the problem and car started again. The part costed like $360 from the dealership. Seems you can't get the part at a local parts store.

[@zx9green791]

@@1466830 thanks for the update glad your back on the road!

[@TheInternalwisdom]

no

[@develinallen9019]

Did that help the code ?

[@zx9green791]

No it still didn't clear the code i had to replacethe while actuator. See part one video.

[@develinallen9019]

How much do you think it cost you over all

[@zx9green791]

@@develinallen9019 my other video goes over it but i bought the whole intake for 430.00 i think.

[@xperron1974]

whats the part number ?

[@zx9green791]

My first video shows the part number for the complete intake assembly.