Corefix - Dot & Dab Wall Fixing Solved

[@johnward182]

Just to show I’ll give it a go I’ll go to the builders store tomorrow and buy a box , I’ll give them to my lads and post a review of what they thought of them ,so it’ll be a unbiased review roger 👍

[@MarcGray1990]

These things are simply the answer to these walls!!! Solid!!! Can’t really go wrong with them! Go slowly with the screw... don’t beat it to death with an impact driver and hand tighten to feel the pull!

[@AndyTaylor_Paintguy]

I used Corefix recently for fitting kitchen wall cabinets. Excellent product that gave a really secure fixing.

[@grrinc]

We used them recently. Excellent no nonsense product. The few extra penny's spent are totally worth it. Very efficient working.

[@TheCarpentersDaughterUK]

Glad you brought this up. I've found fixing heavier items to plasterboard an absolute pain, so will look out for these next time I need to do it again.

[@Beariam24]

Used these the other day as a test on my tv wall bracket. Absolutely awesome, will be stocking the vans with these fixings highly recommend

[@Dan-tj7ft]

I used the blue ones for thermolites to fit my boiler. Excellent fixings.

[@2loco]

Thanks Roger. I often hang TVs on dot and dab plaster and always have issues fixing using masonry anchors. This is fantastic 👌👌

[@PashaKai]

You look like Gordon Ramsey a bit :) Thank you for your videos. You know how to explain, and vievers as myself learn a lot from you. Keep it up!

[@loafersheffield]

But he's sooo polite and not as f£&*in' sweary.

[@Area51ca]

A real pro amongst so many wannabes on youtube. Many good tips and correct info. Thank you.

[@diggerproud1]

Thanks for the video. We’ve just had a radiator come off the wall in a new build. Done by cowboys obviously & having to rectify myself. Will be using these fittings for the job.

[@SkillBuilder]

Glad it helped

[@mattcartwright8272]

I've tried all manner of fixings over the years for DnD walls. These look a very good option for high load bearing. I don't mind paying extra to ensure something stays on the wall. I also like Gripit fixings for light -medium loads.

[@SkillBuilder]

I have never got on with Gripit Fixings. They rely on the plasterboard and create a big disc that is sometimes hard to conceal. Have a look at our video on Snap toggles.

[@mattcartwright8272]

@@SkillBuilder Yep, agreed Roger. Horses for courses - you always have to look at the specific task and application.

[@MetexOnline]

Hi Matt, really pleased you like the look of Corefix! Have a look at what Corefix has to offer here… www.corefixed.com/

[@MrJoopKlep]

To bridge a gap behind plasterboard I usually push/hammer a cut to size piece of small diameter steel pipe (such as central heating pipe) in the borehole. Firmly against the hard wall and flush with the board. The screw then (obviously) goes through the piece of pipe tot the plug. Somewhat the same principle IMO, but of course this specialised product is a lot more elegant

[@peepiepo]

I'd quite like to see a comparison of these against Rigifix and DrylinePro. I don't know if there are any others that do the same job as these three. Might be an idea for a video, just a thought.

[@zedman442]

These plugs definitely fill a market. Never used them but they seem like a good design. I've personally got away with frame fixings as they have the long sleeve. Also don't know if you remember Roger the old long length of wall plug which you cut to size. Hard to get hold of now but are fantastic.

[@SkillBuilder]

Hi Zed Man Yes, I remember those long brown and red strips. Sometimes I take strips of cable sheathing off-cuts and feed those into the holes and as the screw goes in it does them up into a tight knot. Good for back boxes.

[@MetexOnline]

Hi Zed, Really pleased you like the look of Corefix! Have a look at what Corefix has to offer here… www.corefixed.com/

[@gdfggggg]

These look like a good system but I’ve got used to using frame fixers (concrete screws). The come in most sizes up to about 150mm in length and no plugs required. Just drill a 6mm hole and they drill straight in. If drilling celcon blocks, just screw straight in (with cordless drill). Sometimes though you may have to increase the circumference of the fixing to allow for the thickness of the screw. Been using these for years now into all manner of backgrounds: block, brick, celcon, dot‘n dab.... never had a problem. Cheers

[@peterryan7827]

Brilliant idea this is the second video on these or something very similar i have seen recently,thanks for the tip.

[@johnmackay7789]

Any idea like this is a great help.Thank goodness there's not a lot of dot and dab walls here in Aberdeen Personally can't stand them. Same with paramount partition. Framing and sheeting all day for me.

[@pitbladdojoinery9902]

Why not just use a masonry screw ? What does the metal sleeve do as the animation didn’t really show anything. Does this fixing prevent the cavity being compressed

[@coolkid8865]

Hi Roger, From a price point, I imagine a good quality plastic plug and a decent steel screw will work as well, and about 50 times cheaper, love your Vids Roger...

[@UhOhUmm]

Yeah, I see the idea, but a long plug and long screw would hold just as well. Maybe these would be useful for something extremely heavy, but then you would probably want to use steel plugs with anchor bolts anyway.

[@vistron888]

But using a standard wall plug and long screw will bow the plasterboard into the gap as you tighten. Plus the metal sheath you bang in is taking the load on these fixings along its length so the screw does not have to.

[@MetexOnline]

Hi Deadmaus 2 - A conventional wall plug and screw will no doubt be cheaper than Corefix, but does not address the issues solved by Corefix. Namely ease of installation, high load rating and the prevention of the plasterboard being crushed into the void when tightening the screw.

[@peterbigo9951]

These work with studded walls, up to a depth of around 30cm the metal sleeve helps prevent bending over a wide gap a normal screw wouldn’t work

[@lunavx]

For dot and dab fixing, I've always had success by drilling the hole then filling the hole with plenty of grab adhesive , while the adhesive is still wet push the plug in. I usually wait til the adhesive has gone off but I've had no problems fixing while wet

[@MetexOnline]

This work around will no doubt work well, but does not offer the convenience of a solution like Corefix that is ready out of the box.

[@missionDan]

I would like to see a shovel comparison, one for digging one for loading amixer etc. I want to know whats the very best and whats the best value

[@Kosmonooit]

I use an impact screw driver to wind in the screws on fittings such as those - game changer!

[@SkillBuilder]

I need the exercise.

[@abscomm]

That's a great product, used them for a radiator, solid as a rock!! Not really expensive either.

[@SkillBuilder]

Cheaper than having a radiator fall off the wall. People get so hung up on the price. If it does the job use it and save money somewhere else or charge more.

[@MetexOnline]

Hi John, really pleased to see you're already a Corefix user! Just in case you're after a few more, here's a quick link to our site… www.corefixed.com/

[@adnanlami5373]

Thanks for the video Will this work for hanging wall kitchen cabinet or they are designed for more heavy duty thanks

[@SkillBuilder]

Yes it will work if you can get the bolt through the plate.

[@johnmcc1977]

Would these work on insulated plasterboard where the insulation is about 40mm thick? The insulated PB is stuck to the masonry.

[@solsbarbers]

Hi everyone. Do you these fixings would work for a pull up bar?

[@steveh100]

These looked pretty good, and will indeed be good, I've used them for the first time today with dot and dab, but the hollow block means the plug isn't in a solid piece of wall, sods law eh, I can get them to work with a little extra bodge but will try and get some shorter ones... so eone mentioned blue ones here....

[@les0nick]

Hi Roger. Please make a video explaining how to add wet underfloor heating with 3-4 zones to existing radiator system with combi boiler. Any need for 2 or 3 way motorised valve and extra expansion vessel? Thanks.

[@glenwilkins8587]

Hi Roger, could you use these fixings on insulated plasterboard. If the boards were 50mm thick. Stuck to the wall using instastik foam. Thanks 👍

[@SkillBuilder]

Yes, absolutely

[@rodgerq]

So when you tighten the screw it nips the sleeve and stops it moving inward giving you a solid point to tighten against?

[@josht8288]

Very useful product just don't over tighten the screws or they can spin inside the plug

[@superiorbeing95]

My first attempt at dot and dab had no gaps and I used a mountain of adhesive lol, these look great though.

[@lukewebb9692]

You must have had extreme straight walls or you didn't use enough plasterboard adhesive.

[@superiorbeing95]

@@lukewebb9692 Exact opposite, I used a ton of adhesive, so much almost the entire board had adhesive behind it.

[@eyeyeye69]

Love your channel Will this brand of fixing hold a cloakroom size wash basin that weights 10 KG in place ? Thank you

[@SkillBuilder]

yes it will hold a basin but you can get basin fixing kits which have nice plastic nuts so they don't crack the basin. A bead of silicone along the back helps to hold it

[@eyeyeye69]

Thank you so much ! ...... I appreciate it

[@eyeyeye69]

Please can you help me with the best fixings for securing a 9 KG cloakroom basin to a dot and dab wall. I wanted to use corefix but I can’t find a kit from them that have plastic nuts specifically for basins ...... I appreciate any help you can give

[@timcmit]

Did I understand you correctly - you didn't use a masonry bit to achieve a better fit? Also, have ever drilled through a dab to gain a more secure fitting when there is a wide board to block gap?

[@SkillBuilder]

If you hit the dab that is fine but it is more luck than judgement. I don't use an SDS bit in brick or soft block because it makes a baggy hole. The Bosch multi purpose bits are good with no hammer action required on soft material

[@timcmit]

@@SkillBuilder Yes managed to find the dabs ok - not necessarily in the ideal place! Multipurpose drill worked well. Thanks!

[@robthesamplist]

what about that new insulation block about 150mm thick they clad old houses with and put a thin render over, trying to fit stuff to that is a nightmare.

[@cybershot62]

What length would you recommend for kitchen cabinets?

[@SkillBuilder]

You need to be at least 35mm into the blockwork so work back from there with a 10mm gap and 12mm plasterboard and the cabinet 18mm, say 75mm.

[@danstheman33]

Anyone know where to buy or order these from in the US? Or anything similar? I can't find any source outside the UK, and shipping is expensive! I don't know why there aren't more products like this, it's a common issue here in New York City!

[@steve34416]

Brilliant kit

[@michelangelolavagno1963]

Good video and great brand

[@philsexton5761]

Roger, thanks for the videos. Can I ask what you would use in this situation please. I have become interested in woodwork recently and have been turning my garage into a workshop but the garage has been there many many years and it was built with these breeze block air brick things and as soon as I drill into these, the brick/wall just disintegrates and I can't fasten anything to it! The ceiling is asbestos (I think) so I just don't touch that, it's not great but its all I have and I was wondering how you would build shelving on these walls or fasten anything else to the wall. At some point I would like to change the up and over garage door to wooden ones but again it comes down to fixing them to the brick? Cheers Phil

[@SkillBuilder]

Hi Phil. You can buy really fat plugs that squash into the hole when you tap them in You can also use any one of several adhesives to hold the plugs in the hole. As you say the material crumbles so it is not suitable for expanding wall plugs. If you are fixing large frames I would put in some resin anchors and gun down the back of the frames with a good framing adhesive. There are loads out there and they are mostly similar. CT1 is expensive but it works best.

[@philsexton5761]

Skill Builder brilliant, thanks for that. I have some eco stick somewhere but I will try that CT1. Thanks for your help. Cheers Phil

[@brianoneill350]

Thanks

[@carguillo1]

THANKS ROGER NICE ONE

[@MetexOnline]

Hi Kev, really pleased you like the look of Corefix! Have a look at what Corefix has to offer here… www.corefixed.com/

[@JoeFoster]

You mention not using a masonry bit if the video... what did you mean by this?

[@Roger-Bisby1]

In soft aircrete blocks the masonry bit tends to drill a ragged hole and is not always round. An HSS twist bit is easily good enough and makes a more precise hole. If you are drilling harder masonry you will need a masonry bit.

[@Neema1135514]

Hi Roger, can you do a video about underfloor heating manifold. Thanks.

[@SkillBuilder]

There is one on KZbin. Look for Worcester Bosch Underfloor heating. We don't have the rights to the video but it is one I made years ago and it explains all. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3OloouHeq6AhK8

[@macplastering]

good vid guys

[@stakkerhmnd]

I'm the first to comment ! You are not ! Ha! Ha! Strong and stable fixings! You know it makes sense!

[@MEVD2011]

How to get decent corners in coving please help

[@wibbley1]

I made my own mitre block. Similar to a standard 'L' shape mitre block, big enough to hold the coving and with a third piece of wood which orients the coving to the same ceiling/wall depth measurement. As walls are hardly ever exactly 90 degrees, if you want to be really fussy, make a number of mitre blocks and cut slightly different guide angles, 43, 41, 47, 49 degrees etc.

[@peterfriel5129]

Hi Rodger what do you think of the expanding foam method for fixing plasterboard rather than the Dot & Dab .

[@SkillBuilder]

Peter I don't like it much. I have had some patchy results. Not too bad if you wet the walls but it is still only foam.

[@EM-vc6qr]

Hi roger always enjoy your vids, and see you cover all trades which got me wondering what you are to trade.

[@skaterguy52]

davy brent he’s a plumber

[@ukconstruction]

Roger is a great plumber by trade, but he is a dab hand at most things! A good all round tradesman!

[@EM-vc6qr]

@@ukconstruction cheers for reply, he does come across as a top class all rounder got good knowledge on all trades.

[@stephenboothby7446]

Reinventing the wheel.

[@SkillBuilder]

Nothing wrong with that. This gives you some more choice. If it ain't for you then that is perfectly O.K but I like them

[@julianreverse]

Ive never seen something like this since the 90s here in Germany :-D You are going to make the same mistake ... stop it right now!

[@nikgrekk2020]

Definitely like

[@MetexOnline]

Hi Nik, really glad you like the look of Corefix! Have a look at what Corefix has to offer here… www.corefixed.com/

[@acat6821]

Sds drill into blocks and fix as normal, just dont overtighten. Simple. You dont need this.

[@SkillBuilder]

That is not going to bridge the gap like this does you pussy.

[@jasonantigua6825]

Is this what you’d call a mechanical fixing?

[@SkillBuilder]

Yes it is

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

Looked good until Philips or Pozidrive head on screw.

[@alpachino468]

Good Lord, these fixings are bloody expensive 🤭

[@arbit3r]

Full safety googles and a mask for a wallplug. Bloody hell Rodger.

[@grantcook5376]

Won’t belong before he will have to use a riot shield to work behind that as well H&S gone 😠

[@stevecraft00]

I use a long fat screw. Get it started in the plug, then push the plug and screw right in. You need a fat screw as technically it is un supported for about 30mm.

[@SpNick3]

get the impact driver out. who still uses screwdrivers 🤔

[@SkillBuilder]

You need a strong wrist. How do you exercise yours?

[@johnward182]

Normall plugs and screws of the right length would be just as good otherwise you could use window fixings either way both cheaper and much better , DIY FIXINGS , not a trade way ?

[@bum-edwhu66]

clueless

[@johnward182]

brian bird and I suppose you are an expert , been running a construction firm for 20 years , only reason why promoting shite like this is for monetary reasons but I suppose you being an expert would know , idiots like your comments to me show how thick you are !!!

[@chmoduk]

Its just that due to the cavity, when you tighten the screw it bends the plaster board if you can't get something in between the cavity to stop that. My house has wooden battens between the plasterboard instead of the modern dot and dab. Also screws aren't very good at shear strength that's why I've use long rawl bolts in the past for heavy items but I'm going to give these a try anyway.

[@SkillBuilder]

@@johnward182 A tad harsh John. When you say "Not a trade way" you presume to know what every trade person thinks and does which can't be true so you set yourself up to be knocked down. Running a construction firm for 20 years? That doesn't mean you stop learning

[@bum-edwhu66]

@@johnward182 ok let me rephrase my comment clueless fucking cowboy