Correct Thickness for REDGARD application

[@tileslay6543]

Finally we can have open discussions about shower systems, without someone saying, “my way is the only way!”

[@bobcougar77]

But.. It is!

[@dennisstone5018]

I use Red Gaurd quite a bit and always brush and roll it on. Apply thinner coats and more of them .Thinner coats dry much quicker. Never had any problems with it .

[@silosvince]

amen! brush and roll

[@TheMVCoho]

yep!

[@CurflanderHolyfield]

@@TheMVCoho same. I do 3 coats with brush and roller as as the fiberglass and this is all on top of my normal pan liner and floor mud

[@aaronflores-kh6lh]

I think i'm going with brush and roll for my first ever tile job in bathroom. Pray for me brothers

[@axiomhi8549]

Great video. It's good so see contractors who are willing to try things and admit that they don't know it all. This is greatly helpful to everyone. Nice job.

[@seekthtruth]

Hes not trying nothing. He still wants it to fail. You paint it on, its way too thick again with the trowel. This guys a jerk

[@darkloom]

Can't believe people can say anything negative about your process, or you. You are the best.

[@datdozier228]

Thanks for doing these tests. I’ve always brush and rolled it on, here in Mississippi we make mud pans with pan liners and then coat the showers with a rubber membrane. We rarely use schluter and after seeing your videos, I am glad we stay away from it. I just always felt that thin set is too porous to attatch schluter joints together with. But you are legit testing the industry and I applaud you for it. These companies need to take these into consideration and fix some heavy faulty issues

[@yxngmoe8333]

your a really good guy love the way you show repect to everybody with all the hate and good comments bro your doing a great job and keep it up much love bro.

[@richardp3624]

You said it perfectly. Great guy, great attitude.

[@alexpatrick2522]

Not a tile guy, but trying to learn and I find your videos, particular this one, really informative. Thanks for putting this out there.

[@regibson23]

Gotta test rolling it on. Troweling looks like a complete pain.

[@jackp977]

A lot of learning is learning how not to do it, just as much as doing it properly. I think it's great that you showed the failed video and showed a successful video. It allows us all to answer the question, "what if I apply this to thick, what will happen". You have probably saved a lot of people money who would be willing to apply the thickness of the application at their own discretion. Thanks for taking your time and resources to teach us. This experiment was spot on and the way I would have done it for testing, right down to the ounce.

[@jimandcolleenchmelik4075]

I am doing my own shower and as a master carpenter who is experienced in the process of following steps your video was most helpful. with respect to applying the redgard. Thanks for taking the time.

[@fabulouspinkmk10]

You are a humble man!!!!!!! I gained from watching this video, Now I am feeling more confident to use this product and get good results.

[@powerpipe6389]

i did my shower 3 years ago . Used a roller for he walls and a brush for the corners. Applied two coats. No problems.

[@tinok.8149]

A++++ Thank you so much for taking the time to do all that, and bringing us along to learn with you. I enjoy watching your videos, they have a ton of info. You are very honest humble and transparent with all your work witch is very rare in todays world. Thank you and keep up the great work for the ones that appreciate you!

[@proverbs1788]

Hey great job on the video. And it's good to see you handled the negative people with politeness and respect that's awesome. And to all you negative people out there lighten up a bit it's just a red guard experiment

[@GL-tp5hg]

I am not professional; I am just a home owner like to do thing myself. I had very successful experience with REDGARD. I used just brush and roller and applied thin layer multiple times until I finish all the REDGARD I purchased (maybe more than I really needed). The result was great. My shower was done 5 years ago and no leak so far.

[@harlangreen1840]

YOU HAVE DONE A GREAT DEMONSTRATION OF THE GOOD ,THE BAD AND THE UGLY OF PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS,,,THANK YOU

[@woodworker1953]

I use red guard all the time but I roll it on also before I set tile I use kerdi ban in all my corners. Maybe over kill but never had a leak or grout cracking in the corners! Keep up the good work. Been tiling over 20 years and always want to be the best and willing to learn different technics.

[@OGCJ10]

So the Kerdi band over the red guard ?

[@C-LOS420]

This guy touch bases on what to do and what not to do? Cause and effect pertaining mixs and other chemicals solutions. This is important for the DIY's guys

[@briansandyoutdoornature5842]

By the way, you do a great job on your videos. I set a lot of tile. Most people out there don't even come close to the quality of work I do. And you my friend are right up there with me. I stopped counting at a hundred thousand square foot of residential tile.

[@justinofboulder]

There are a few of us who do quality work.... ;)

[@Eatprepd]

quality is more important than quantity

[@DJHO5TEL]

hey boss i allways apply 3-4 coats with brush and roller. been my best method so far. pretty consistent too.

[@jasonmcguire4933]

I use a roller like most. Would love to see a video of how many coats is needed to achieve their guild lines. I'm assuming that you still have more red guard. Do a small test just like this 5sqft of dry wall roll a coat tell covered let dry roll the next tell you've used up the needed red guard. it takes us 3-4 coats but we tend to round up to the next .5 gal. We don't hydrate we do a heavy coat 1st letting it soak in and by the time the first coat is done the first wall is dry and ready for coat 2. Time from 2 to coat 3 is 2-3hrs and we put a fan on low in the shower to keep air moving and work in a different part of the room. The other thing with the heavy first coat is it helps to cover screw heads the edges of the mud where we put seam tape on and any small holes in the dura-rock that the builders are using in the showers where I'm from.

[@ronmcgowan]

Great video!! I appreciate all the hours you put into making videos for us!

[@bbrown5887]

Great video and I appreciate your humble honest approach to try and give people examples, perspective etc. Constructive criticism is very important and appropriate but above that it’s just dysfunctional people who unfortunately need to make themselves feel good by overly criticizing others. I recently checked out your videos specifically searching for shower sealing tips and appreciated the information provided. I just finished doing the sealing of my shower and I used the Schluter pan system that actually had the membrane. I finished the entire pan with their corners etc just to keep the pan consistent, then Redguard for the walls over Denshield backer. I made sure all surfaces were clean before starting and then rolled on 3 coats for the walls and brushed the corners well inserting fiberglass mesh into them. The thinner multiple layers for the walls worked really well for me with excellent adhesion. The thinner coats dried much faster and a circulating fan sped that up even more. I’m very satisfied with how well it adhered to the walls and I’m sure when applied right it would do the very same for the pan. Keep up the great videos as learning is just as valuable from failures as it is successes.

[@turboflush]

I would like to see a roll on application thickness.

[@Lildude69505]

Really like your humility dude. Keep it going

[@justinofboulder]

Thanks for the video....been enjoying your content! While it's not "rocket science", I am glad to hear there are others out there who take pride in the trade!

[@doughgetta92]

We do commercial an we usually do three coats an we roll it on with a roller never with a trowel

[@pepaw]

I am not in the trade, but if I was I would be super appreciative of the work and effort you put into this

[@rxchng]

Hey Isaac, love these videos that you experiment with different tiling products! Thanks so much for doing it and sharing it! Awesome and God bless!

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Putting any product to its limits and finding the failure threshold is a useful experiment.

[@waltercastillo5921]

Trowel recommendation is to use the flat side as a skim coat to key in the first application to the substrate then use a roller for 2 more applications letting the 2nd coat dry before applying the 3rd coat . I agree the coverage is a little less then what is needed especially if you use a duraroc board because of all the pinholes . But the pinholes actually give the redgard something to grab onto which makes me sleep easier at night .

[@alanlicht7633]

I like your 7 day kerdi tests, which, as you have pointed out, are about 6 days more then anyone would test a shower pan. That being said, I would really like to see someone, anyone, do a 7 day test with kerdi membrane or kerdi board and seal the corners and changes of planes with red guard and Red Guard Fabric Membrane instead of Kerdi band and thinset. A combo of both systems! I know it's not practical in the real world, but neither is a 7 day test. But, I think there is a damn good chance it will pass that 7 day test! So, what do you say? Anyone else wanna see this?

[@Tilethoughts]

Are you referring to the redguard membrane they sell at home Depot it's similar to kerdi band?

[@hobson3724]

Just do it Issac. Please

[@nathanwebb4671]

I want to see it too. Im trying to save $ on an addition 676sf on top of my rancher Been a year from start date. With just me, my veterinarian marineand 3 time cancer survivor father in law, and his brother in law - (a 70yo pastor whos wife just found out she has breast cancer) have done it all. I am truly blessed. But cant chock down the price for a kerdi shower kit 42 x 60 is close to $500 . So im thinking hot knife slope cut some rigid foam panel and kerdi membrane that . Or try to use the Oatey pre slope with kerdi membrane. Will you try it and test it? It'll save me money both ways fail or pass.

[@codyrobison6817]

@@nathanwebb4671 your an idiot

[@nirmaljassal1810]

Lz

[@davidpenland6991]

Awesome. Thank you for doing this. It answers questions you cannot find elsewhere.

[@ibrahimwehbe1153]

Love your professionalism

[@sam.man.TX22]

I’m need to try and do things myself and I’ve super appreciated of these kinds of videos and such. You and a couple others have really got my knowledge well. A video on how to level walls that r jacked up from old wood and old houses and stuff would be helpful as well. Think I make some stuff harder than it has to be. Thanks man and keep it up

[@eugeniustheodidactus8890]

These monolithic membranes need a consistent thickness, and applying with a roller is usually the right thickness for this product and others such as Proseco.

[@andrewmcneill1406]

Hey Isaac, Andrew McNeill of McNeill L&R in Barrie, ON Canada. I enjoy your videos! As part of my renovation work I do a lot of tile and custom shower work. I have been using Redgard for at least 6 years, mostly as a pan linear over my drypack shower beds. I have found that a brush is the best way to cover the area and acheive the correct thickness. It usually only takes about 1-2 hours for the first coat to cure, often less. I will always do 2 coats and sometimes 3. My results have been excellent thus far. As you found out, you don't want to put it on too thick...that's the big thing. I have yet to use it on shower walls over drywall? I generally don't use drywall in showers at all, usually Kerdi board which doesn't need Redgard. Thanks again!

[@mattmills4651]

Good demonstration on Redguards recommended coverage

[@stevenschneider7443]

I've used red guard a couple times and don't know it ever failed (old house and a 3x3 foot space) so the last video of yours before I went ahead with it again was all about "over aplication", and really reassuring to see this one about "proper application" makes it a usable product. I will note, the substrate is always going to be a factor (other video the deck mud hadn't solidified) and my current application checked Ina coupke spots and I had to scrape it off in a couple spots and re-apply the base (I think it was leveler dust (small half bath space I had mix and apply inside of)). But everything is looking good between floor and shower walls once the finish/decoupling-water barrier coats were applied. I will agree, that for a one time user, instructions are kinda vague on how much to apply and how, but really that's kind of a tile wide industry problem like thinset coming in 50 lbs bags, and only needing 1/3 - 3/4 bag, either get a scale to weigh what your using or hope your opinion of peanut butter consistency is the same as the designer. Very observer/operator heavy on what us what and unless your in the spacific trade, it may or may not hold up being just a little off. I've mixed a soupy thinset and made it work for me in the moment, and may show failures some day, and made stiff thinset that could also crumble some day, but so far... seems to have worked. 🤷‍♂️

[@carlmccoy662]

Seems like an adhesive roller, like for contact cement, would give the right amount of thickness (they are at lowes by the melamine/formica laminates)

[@rogerkolodziej5730]

Great follow-up video . I appreciate you taking the time to figure out what went wrong on the first go around. I have an irregular shaped shower pan area in a wet room and so I have to use Red Guard or similar or live with way too many cuts in the vinyl pan material. I'm nervous about using Red Guard and will likely put on a third coat just to be safe. It should get total thickness to close to the 40 mil PVC liner. Thanks

[@brandonmunden1541]

Mesmerizing to watch--I like how much can be done with the trowel. Precise

[@kevinyoungblood9999]

Love it. Like your humility!!

[@illokano]

I was waiting for a StarrTile to follow up on his red guard video. You so quick👍🏼👍🏼

[@renaissancemen1]

That guy is a pre slope short of a code built shower.

[@datdozier228]

@@renaissancemen1 😂😂🤘🏽

[@jonathanwarren5605]

Yes much better. I still like to use my kerdi trowel first. Let that dry a few hours and then flat trowel to fill the ridges in. Keep up the great videos.

[@curtishatch6414]

Good job Isaac, love your devotion to your trade your very helpful to us!keep doing what you do it works👍👍

[@MrBradfordwill]

Great job Isaac. Love the modesty.

[@GeorgeBrabant]

Thanks Isaac! I really appreciate you taking the time and then sharing the knowledge! You're a good man!

[@edwardpopa4854]

Nice man way better second time around! Am I the only one who was oddly satisfied watching this red guard spread around by the trial? Cool cool!

[@alexandralesnick5128]

Thank you for sharing. Extremely helpful.

[@MistrMyke]

Ignore the idiots. Your practical demonstrations are very helpful.

[@sladeoriginal]

So much simpler to just use a paint roller in addition to a waterproof membrane in the corners, edges, and substrate transitions.

[@kkatlvolvo]

Great video and your sincerity definitely comes thru. Nice job.

[@youarehere1716]

mils are 1/1000 of an inch. millimeters are 1/1000 of a meter. HUGE difference. You've pointed that out in other videos. Good call!

[@snytty]

Beautiful, beautiful job, showing exactly how it needs to be done. It seems that Custom's literature tends to contradict itself quite a bit. Some parts say hold the trowel at 45°. Some say 80sf/gallon, twice. Some even say to use 93 mils for a waterproof membrane. All three are conflicting. Assuming the total 40sf/gallon is, in fact, the goal.. then this video helps a lot.

[@paccionepianoservices]

love your videos....we are about to Red Guard our shower pan/curb...fingers crossed!

[@stevesanderson8360]

Why keep fighting that trowel? Even though RG approves a trowel, USE A ROLLER!. You'll get even distribution and a perfectly smooth, flat finish in less than half the time.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Multiple rolled-on coats will get you to the desired film thickness, right? Plus the cure is more optimal.

[@tileman30years6]

Use a roller and a fan and it will speed up the process

[@MistAtsiM]

Exactly

[@MistAtsiM]

@@TileCoach you need to use a thick roller cover. Can't be standard 1/2 or even 3/4. You need 1 1/4 or more it works much faster and better.

[@salotesua9480]

@@tii2015 Go to a proper established tile store for guidance

[@MrELauj]

Good comeback video bro .. keep it up

[@tonan5440]

To determine the recommended thickness: instructions say 1ga per 80sqft, ie., 1ga/80sqft. Convert 1ga to cubic feet. So the problem becomes 0.1337cuft/80sqft = .00167ft. Now multiply this result by 12in/ft to obtain inches of thickness you get .020in. That's 20 thousanths of an inch! You cannot trowel .020in no matter how good you are. You must roll it on. First pass is probably close to .020in, 2nd pass fills any this spots. That aside, why would you use a notched trowel anyway if your trying to waterproof? Seems like the wrong approach to me.

[@FromThe3PointLine]

Beginning of video: "thanks for checking out one of my videos" Yeahd dude I'll support your channel with a view and a like. I mean that's what we are here for right?

[@rtheprizeisright7323]

Have you talked about different sub-straights, like cement board, plywood, durock, cement board? I would think the rate of absorption, would matter with the way, the redgard is applied also. So full confession, I have a vested interest, i am going to be in the next few months putting a shower enclosure, on my bathtub walls, but i wont be tiling it, I'm putting the durock cement boards (the real rough boards with cement sandwiched between 2 pieces of fiberglass sheets), as the walls, behind more-lite paneling with a tile-like design(on the morelite) on the front of the paneling. Traditionally this is has been down in the NEPA area for probably 70 years. The problem is everybody puts plywood behind it, then nails the morelite to the paneling and as you can imagine 5 years later you need to replace this. [l However, I want to put redgard as a added waterproof on the walls, along with hanging the morelite with a bathroom friendly adhesive, to minimize the holes. I would use like a PL-premium product and the a few nail along the top and I would over coat them with a a clear caulking to prevent water penetration and rusting of the nails.) The previous owner put those 3 piece white shower enclosures over a plywood backing with, I kid you not black flexseal around the bottom because of course the shower wasn't installed correctly or lipped properly. Should I use cement to joint my seems on the cement board or is there something better? And would the same coverage of the redgard apply as cement board I'm sue you know doing tile work is quite absorbent before you get a barrier on the boards. And if you put this same cement board on the floor for like a walkway inside your house, where tile will be used, as a place to put your shoes on snowy or wet days or your tiling a whole floor do you recommend using this cement board on top of plywood on the floor and then once again what do you use for the butt joints cement or is there something else? You put out great videos, their content is amazing how you do everything from material experimentation, to nontraditional materials. Keep up the great videos from a loyal fan. thanks, Ron

[@garypeterson824]

Thank you for using a scientific approach to determine what 80 sq.ft per gallon looks like. That's very helpful! I am thinking of using redgard on the walls around a newly installed bathtub. I was thinking of using a paint brush and roller to put on the thin coats. I will also use a fabric in the corners thanks to another one of your excellent videos. Do you think the paint brush and roller process will be an acceptable way to apply the redgard to the walls? I am also not certain about how to meet the tubs edge with the wall board material or what is the best wall board for a DIYer guy to use. Thanks for your compassion for humanity it is very helpful to me. It's been a tough year! I'm sure for you as well. Very nice to hear your words.

[@sexylexy22100]

As far as best wall board for diy foam tile backer it's like 3 times the price but you install it tape the seams and done its you're board and you're membrane

[@truthof7382]

Thanks for the video as always. Custom gives away depth gages for free. Makes everything go real fast. Apply, measure and keep going.

[@russelldieterle8846]

the Einstein of tile good dude

[@othomas4592]

This was super helpful - I learned so much - thank you so much

[@holdernewtshesrearin5471]

Ive found its best to.use a paint brush to apply Redgard and multiple thinner coats with thorough drying time between coats works best to prevent blistering and cracking. 3 coats on all seams and corners, 2 coats on walls and 6-9 coats on the floor and drain. I end up with the floor about 1/16" thick with the fiberglass mesh tape or cloth and about half that without the mesh or about 30 mils.

[@thaatscrazy]

I worked with a tilers that would apply this by sponge. They half assed everything, and they do a lot of really expensive jobs out here in Seattle.

[@maikwho]

In the red guard application video it says to go against the trowel grains, not with them. That may impact your result on trowel angle.

[@ijursic]

Thanks for all you are doing Isaac.

[@slc.images]

Had me really nervous about my own redgard application :)

[@rbilardo47]

Dude, forget what the directions say about using a trowel, please just use a roller it will go on much evenly and easier and will dry much quicker. You are too scientific, it's easy, if I can do it you can too. lol Love your vids, keep them simple and keep them coming. Thanks for all the input.

[@davidbryant2552]

First time doing floors i wanted some of this around the bathtub and I dumped some out and tried to trowel it i got abt 2sq ft done and could tell I didnt like it i got a roller and kinda pushed it around the floor (roller didnt spin) grabbed a stiff bristle brush which happens to be the cheapest kind and it smooths it out easily and thick enough but dries pretty quick

[@squirtinlongcock2674]

It says to roll it after and that is for crack preventing

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

OK best results I got is using actually a 1/2nap roller and roll it on with 3-4 coats on a shower pan and it's holding on my installs for now almost 20 years without a single issue. I use cheap nylon naps on 9" rollers and coat in thinner layers more often still I see the sold dark red is covering close to 80% of the see thru on the material. Write with a black marker on the sub surface. Once you can't really read it anymore you have a good thickness and apply it with a roller safes your butt big times.

[@pauldhennessey]

Custom Building products has a pdf, tb94 understanding the coverage, that shows square footage to mils equivalents for a given application. Never used red guard so I don't know if it comes with a mil thickness guage. Might be a little frustrating for the average DIYer

[@creedbarnett4948]

Yes, and if you can't test it why would you trust it as a pan liner?!

[@TheLoobis]

2:40 Wait a minute. Isn't Redguard a waterproofing thing? Why are you troweling it? Shouldn't you be painting it on?

[@johnd9541]

I can't see using RG in place of a pan liner. Walls maybe?

[@sancop]

Home Renovision gives a good version using the brush/roller method, but he does 4 coats. 😊

[@robgreenough1164]

Much better pal.glad ya sorted the first nightmare out 👍😂

[@troy9616]

Good test. But I’ve been applying with a brush and roller.

[@michelrea2403]

would like to see someone try more than 2 coats, say 3 to 4 brushed on Red guard , Maplei Ultra Flex , or a different brand. How flexible are these products?

[@agruici]

Some people are assholes on the internet. Work of art glad we all learned something!

[@drewsday6221]

I agree with you guys. Always used a roller to apply all these types of water proofing and always put my fabric on with same material. I have been installing tile for 30+ years and never used any of this stuff. I also have been fortunate to renovate bathroom that I have done from 30 years ago and found no failure in any of my work. I always feel none of this new stuff cant hurt but if you are doing the right job from the begining you dont need any of it. All these waterproffing materails just make a bad tile job last longer. Learn how to do your job correctly if you are going to call yourself a professional .

[@ronimbeau4868]

I’m glad the first try failed. If I hadn’t watched your video I would have applied it thick also. (More is better) right? You saved me a lot of pain! Thanks.

[@johnsalamone9460]

If I can clearly read the “USG DUROCK” label on the cement backer board, my contractor didn’t do thick enough redgard on my shower walls under the tile, correct? Appreciate any help!

[@FullTilt444]

We have the same exact situation/problem....... they rolled on ONE COAT and called it good!

[@darrenr1194]

Two coats are more than enough. You might still see the durock label but if two coats are properly applied it will be waterproof

[@englishlad8085]

Good video mate , I use red guard quite a lot I use hydroban more but I do use plenty of RG, I have been applying it with a heavy Matt roller and I do 3-4 coats and it ends up much like yours in thickness, personally I think it’s a great product I haven’t had any fails that I know of , hydroban will always be my favorite just because of the thickness it goes on and the rubbery finish , it just depends on the home owners budget.

[@myowngig]

Love your honesty

[@davidreish211]

There is another set of directions that I got from custom years ago and it is recommended not to exceed 15 Mils per coat and a Max of 30 mils per coat, but if you do one coat at 30 mils it will crack every time, the correct milage for a pan is 30mils and 60 mils for a steam shower

[@Tehcarp]

A cup is basically 1/4 a litre so that’s the best point to convert.

[@Imwright720]

I’m not using that for a shower pan but I’d use it for a wall and floor. . Getting ready to.

[@joshualand5467]

We got us a real movie star here!

[@GilBatesLovesyou]

Yo Isaac, I'd like to thank you for trying to do independent tests in this industry, it's very important. As it's seemingly two sides, one who are legal eagles afraid of getting sued, and another basically who go "well my pappy did it this way so..." kind of stuff. It's like motor oil, diesel motor oils a lot of times are better motor oils than gasoline car motor oils, but oil manufacturers won't recommend them for gasoline cars for a lot of reasons, mainly legal environmental ones. But actual independent testing shows they're awesome. I know you'll probably never get a Robinson floor machine or something, but still, keep up these tests. I'd love to see Aquadefense, Hydroban, etc, tested troweled, brushed, rolled, make tiny swimming pools, whatever. The more reasonably scientific testing we have out the better, so thank you! :)

[@GilBatesLovesyou]

Ah, Isaac, I think the shower pan square footage is perhaps interpreted a bit weird, because of how Custom writes it. I can't find the PDF of their technical bulletin for it, but their shower pan is kind of strange how it works. They actually recommend you do a PRESLOPE (ah, funny here...) with a drain with weep holes, and actually meet the cement wall boards with the preslope, and apply the waterproofing this super thick to the preslope going to the weep holes, then mud on top of the Redgard like normal. Not at all in the least how *some* people do it. In fact I've NEVER seen it done this way on KZbin or anywhere online but this bulletin. This is a weird but actually sensible method, but still weird. I figure realistically this would only get used by a developer on a bunch of units who just wanted one material/tool and wanted to be able to waterproof walls and shower floors in one go quickly and was using a traditional drain. That said, if you look at Laticrete's video of their Linear drain install with Hydroban, it's a drain without weep holes, and the way it's basically done is just tar paper, lath (I think?) then mud it up, then paint the top with Hydroban. So if you're doing a drain with no weepholes, then you waterproof the top, not do the moisture sandwich business other people do. Topical membrane is the only way I can tell to do a drain with no weepholes. I'm not actually sure though, if you'd need to apply it mega thick like you did in this instance, as you're not using it as a shower pan liner in this instance, I think only the "general waterproofing" things apply, but that's probably something to bother the manufacturers with and get clarification, but realistically even in that scenario I don't really envision good coats with no pinholes done at "general waterproofing" thickness to cause problems, especially with tar paper under the mud to protect the subfloor IF there was some ultra minute 1cc of water every shower failure or something. After all, again, you're not building a space station. Also for trowel stuff, again they probably should just include a little plastic mil gauge somewhere, but I think the angle would ultimately depend on your surface porosity, and with surface porosity, square footage numbers are just guidelines, not ultimate commands, even if you're using normal house paints, you'll get wildly varying square footages out of different surfaces. In this case drywall is flat and smooth and not that porous compared to mud, and then for your last test, thinset is smoother and less porous compared to mud. Again, if you actually call up the manufacturers, they'll likely tell you to do two good coats with a brush or roller and don't worry too much. Please do some more mockups, though, based on this. I'm interested to see if there's any difference in "general waterproofing" thicknesses vs the "shower pan" thicknesses in real life for water penetration.

[@SB-yq3sn]

Keep up the good work

[@wrightsrrt871]

You should look into aqua seal which is lowes version of red guard. Also when I use aqua seal I roll it on with an roller and I do up to 4 to 5 rolled coats each coat takes about 1 to 2 hours to dry and when done with all coats makes an nice water proofing membrane where you will want it at. I have never been disappointed in aqua seal.

[@rrr05g]

Would be curious to see how much more red guard you would need to allow for a 45 degree trowel angle...

[@TheCdrbaby]

Great video's:) I personally like to use a short nap roller for my first Cote then switch to a long nap and I roll on as many cotes as needed to get a solid color like if I was panting a purple wall white. I like the texture long nap adds it feels like the mortar can really grab:)

[@brianhill2984]

I take no chances on failure and use either hydroban or merkrete's 3' roll of fabric on the pan, also using the 6' roll of fabric for all inside or outside corners. First using a 3/16 V notch, lay down the fabric and flat trowel to embed the material. Once dry I'll use a 1/2" roller and apply a second coat.

[@rangermedicHunter]

a roller and brush seems to work better then a trowel for me

[@garydavidh9511]

Why would you trowel on a WATERPROOFER? It's MADE to PAINT ON