Corset Mockups: what, why, and how | Lucy's Corsetry

In this video, I go over my usual methods of constructing mockups, and tips on how to save time and resources. Fitting is NOT covered in this video, but will be covered briefly later on!
What is a corset mockup/ muslin/ toile? What is it used for, and why would I want or need one? Think about the word mock - it's an "imitation" corset, but not a genuine corset. It's used to test the fit and comfort of a final corset.
You don't have to put a huge amount of effort into a mockup, but the more faithful the mockup is constructed compared to the final corset, the closer the results the mockup will be to the final corset (so you don't get any unpleasant surprises in fit, comfort, silhouette etc).
If you're new to making corsets, then you can use mockups as practice runs for constructing the final corset. Sometimes you'll need 2 or 3 mockups by the time you feel you have a pattern that is good for the final product, and if you practice your corset-assembling skills for those mockups, then your final corset will feel easy as you've had practice with the construction by that time.
For a mockup, I may use cheaper domestic coutil, because it costs about the same as the twill I buy in Canada, but domestic coutil is closer in behaviour to the English coutil (that I typically use in my final corsets), not to mention easier to see the grain. But many people use canvas, twill, or cheaper materials for their mockup as long as it doesn't stretch or rip.
Your mockup may not have as many bones as your final corset, but it should have some bones to give some structure. My mockups are single boned, but the final piece will be double boned. My mockup has steel bones in it, but I know several people who use plastic boning in their mockups to save time and money. As long as the length is alright, I can just take the bones out of the mockup and use them in the final corset, so there is no waste of time or resources.
All the hardware of this corset can be easily removed and transferred to another mockup. Julia from Sew Curvy taught this tip: create "removable" back lacing panels that are designed to be sewn onto a mockup, then the whole lacing system can be ripped out and sewn onto another mockup later - this saves you from having to waste grommets. The busk is inserted in one layer, just wrapped around the back of the busk and sewn down.
The two mockups shown in the video are made from two different patterns, but have the same final measurements. The person receiving these mockups has some sewing experience and will be transferring the busk, bones and lacing panel from one mockup to the other and analyze the fit of both.
In one mockup, you can see that the construction process could be considered very similar to what might be seen in a final corset - double stitched seams, and boning channels made with seam allowances. If this mockup fits well and you couldn't care less what it looks like, you might actually be able to put binding on the top and bottom and pass this for really ugly foundation wear.
On the other hand, the second mockup that is more mock-uppy. The seams are single-stitched and have big seam allowances so if there is any necessary change to the pattern of the corset, it can easily be let out at any seam. The boning channels are in the center of the panels, but it will basically have the same number of bones as the last piece. I can later rip out these bone casings and use them in another mockup or in a later corset. Some people don't even use bone casings but just strips of fabric, or even just tape the bones down using duct tape or masking tape. I prefer not to use duct tape though.
Many people don't put a waist tape in their mockup, but sometimes I like to, otherwise the mockup may stretch! Then you might think, "I made the corset too big for me" and you may adjust the pattern to be smaller, and then once the final corset is made with the waist tape, it might actually end up being too small! So I have quickly sewn on a waist tape, but this twill tape was cheap so not a huge sacrifice.
Before I assemble the mockup, I tend to serge or staystitch the top and bottom edges, and often I'll serge the waistline too. I can see the markings from both sides and it somewhat helps prevent warping while I assemble the corset. I will staystitch top and bottom edges of a final corset too, but I won't stitch across the waistline, especially if I'm working with a fabric that shows pinpricks.
For more information on constructing mockups, several great resources are available including "The Basics of Corset Building" from Linda Sparks and "Corset Making" from Julia Bremble.
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[@aSnowyEvening]

I'm going to be making a bustier (different from a corset, I know) for the first time, but I was agonizing about how to do a good mock-up. Your videos are so resourceful, and this video couldn't have come out at a better time for me, I can't wait to see the fitting video! Thank you!!!

[@straitlaceddame]

Awesome. Just...wow! You are a fantastic teacher, and I'm so grateful that you would share that talent and this passion with the world. Because I've already committed myself to starting corset construction come 2014, this comes at a perfect time!

[@LucysCorsetry]

Thank you Heidi! It means a lot to me. I hope to finally do that "sew along" in the new year - hopefully it will be timed appropriately. ^_^

[@ThePamster]

Great video! I know I am not nearly a good enough seamstress to make even one mock up, let alone several, I have a great respect for those who's skills are this superior to my own. You've created some lovely corsets Lucy, I can't wait to see this one finished! Though I know this type of garment construction is beyond me, I really appreciate seeing what goes into making a fabulous piece of fabric art.

[@LucysCorsetry]

Thank you so much. :)

[@Shridra]

I actually was able to get my hands on some really heavy upholstery canvas a while ago. It was in the sale section of my fabric store and if I remember correctly it was only $3 or $4 per meter. I used it to make my stays and I haven't had any problem with stretching. A lot of people, when they go into a fabric store, forget that sometimes you can find some great stuff in the upholstery section!

[@TeutonWarriorMaiden]

I am SO glad you uploaded this today, because I was about to make a mock-up of my next corset, and I HATE making mock-ups. So thank yooouuuu!!

[@simonpieman6934]

Very interesting. There are always little tricks in there I never would have thought of, like having the bones in the middle of he panel. Corset making definitely requires so many different skills, I'm always impressed with you guys. :)

[@LucysCorsetry]

Thank you. :) I was really not expecting this video to be so long; I was just commenting on this tip or that tip. Apparently I've learned a lot over the last 3 years! Corset making has a steep learning curve, but if you make a lot of checklists for yourself, it's not that difficult. :)

[@ascpeace]

Can't wait for the video on mock up fittings :)

[@grettagrids]

Thanks.. I'm actually in the process of having a custom made.. I get my mock up soon..

[@AGirlFromDownUnder]

Okay, so, now that I've gotten that out of my system. I tend to use whatever heavy-ish cotton I have on hand (simply because coutil is expensive no matter what the type), I will sew either strips of that fabric that have been pressed through a bias maker or I will use twill tape (I have several reels of it) to make boning channels. I also have a detachable lacing panel that I use for my corsets. I too, re-use my hardware where possible.

[@CarolineMouraHuber]

I just love your videos! thank you so much for sharing it all with us! I am new to corset making, but love corsets for a long time. I've been trying to learn how to make my own corsets, and the only thing that I still cannot understand properly is how to draft my own patterns.. I have already sewed some corsets with patterns I found, but I really wanna make my own.. Is there any chance you can explain us how to do it? would be awesome! Your videos have been perfect for me to learn some about corsetry! XD

[@TheOracleOfApollo]

If the sew along is too long..them break it down into parts cuz we would all like to see it. I would like from beginning to end. .. how you draw the template etc.

[@kerrough]

Yes! I've been hoping you'd do this one, yay! :-)

[@AdorablyAnastasia]

Hi, just wondering where do you get the supplies to make corsets? Ive been on ebay and tons of websites, are there any you would recomend? Thanks!

[@LucysCorsetry]

If you're in the UK, try Sew Curvy Corset Kits and Vena Cava Design. I consider these two stores to carry the best quality materials for the best price. If you're in the US, then there's Corsetmaking.com, Richard the Thread, and to some degree you can get spiral bones and cheap domestic coutil from Tutu.com. In Canada, there's Farthingales - also fantastic quality, a bit pricier but it sort of makes up for itself by not having to pay for duty/border fees.

[@AdorablyAnastasia]

***** Thank you so much =)

[@MarisaAndChew]

Do you create your own patterns now Lucy or do you still follow patterns like you had shown us waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back when? I can't wait to see a "review" of something you have made recently!

[@kimberlymm2win]

Along with Domino Effect I would very much like to see the process. All of the sites I have found have done what you are doing only theirs have less . . . movement to them, and all in all it is very enlightening but I have encountered many problems with attempting to even make a mock up. Showing how to start these things would be very helpful, even if you just hit the high points on your process, and i think many people would benefit from it.

[@MarisaAndChew]

Weird question, but if your making an "exact" mockup before the real thing could you use it as a liner or inner layer or is it purely for practicing the pattern?

[@LucysCorsetry]

If you make the mockup from good quality material and it fits well, then you can recycle the fabric, yes. :)

[@Coffeeology]

yes yes please show us how to true out the corsets.

[@Winteroseflower]

When making a mockup it isn't going to bring you in as tight as the finish piece will right? So you should make it so it has a larger gap in back then you plan on having on the finished project right? That way when you lace the real thing in its the right size?

[@LucysCorsetry]

When I make my mockups (or get mockups from other corsetieres) it's made in the same size as the final piece will be. I can cinch down 6 inches in the waist, so the mockup needs to be strong enough to allow for that (even though it probably won't have the durability to do that for long amounts of time or many wears). But if you're making a training corset that you intend to size down in over time, you might need to briefly tie it with a () shaped gap so you can test the other elements of fit like the ribcage, hips, torso length, silhouette, etc.

[@Winteroseflower]

So would something like muslin be usable for a mock up? I can't justify spending 20+ bucks on coutil to use as a mockup and was thinking muslin is also a non stretchy cotton based material, would it hold up though?

[@Winteroseflower]

Would muslin be strong enough for the final corset? I've never worked with coutil before so I'm not sure what the diffrence is.

[@violetadominguez6632]

what fabric would you use for a mockup if you're going to make a sheer (non-stretch) corset body suit?

[@LucysCorsetry]

@@violetadominguez6632 if you're starting completely from scratch with a pattern you're pretty sure won't fit well from the start, I'd still do a single layer of cotton. With patterns I had used before and was closer to a good fit, I simply used the same mesh for the mockup. Since it's a single layer it's easier to alter. I'd err on the side of slightly too big rather than too small, for easier alterations. Typically the fit is decent enough that you can finish up the mockup and wear it, even if you end up making another "final" corset afterward.

[@violetadominguez6632]

@@LucysCorsetry Wow! Thank you so much for your advice. I know I will definitely need a few mock-ups to get the right fit. What kind of cotton would you recommend? And do you have any good sources you could recommend for patterning/making corset bodysuits? I'm wanting to use it as a base for a couture evening gown.

[@LucysCorsetry]

@@violetadominguez6632 I liked using soft coutil for my mockups (like from Tutu dot com) because it wasn't all that much more expensive compared to cotton twill, but it didn't have the same twisty issue as twill. Others like Dark Garden use a densely woven canvas. Royal Black actually just released her Bodysuit tutorial on Patreon, the full thing (all 3 parts) are available at her $10/ month tier.

[@Jennifer.villezcas]

maybe I missed it, but question, are mockups supposed to be double layered if the final corset is going to be double layered or can I make a single layer mock up and then make it double on the real thing? :3

[@LucysCorsetry]

Most mockups are single layered, as you're more testing the fit of the pattern as opposed to the rigidity and number of layers. However, more and more people are starting to do more fancy mockups, so they can sell it as a sample to fit someone else instead of throwing the mockup away after. :)

[@Jennifer.villezcas]

Thanks! :D

[@AGirlFromDownUnder]

Google, your new comment system is stupid. In reply to Lucy on coutil for mock-ups: I find that making mock-ups (for myself at least) in materials other than coutil are only helpful for a brief look at fit and to see if there are any really bad stress points. So, rather than waste my precious coutil, for the final fitting I have started biting the bullet and making full corsets.

[@ariesanastasia]

when are you going to put up the video on fitting a mock up? are you also going to go over how to use that to adjust your pattern?

[@LucysCorsetry]

I was in a car accident and haven't been able to wear corsets for over a month. I will make a video on fitting a mockup eventually, but it's really not possible at this time.

[@ariesanastasia]

im so sorry about your accident i hope you will be feeling better soon i will keep you in my prayers and ill just take this opportunity to tell you that i love your channel i have been subscribed for a long time but i just bought the course your reviewed of scarlets and have just started making my first corset

[@JarvisChrist]

Bonnie, a good corset constricts the waist and nothing else.

[@ArankA006]

Lucy has videos about these things too, you should watch them :) Those things are only a risk if you don't corset properly, and if you don't listen to your own body.

[@OsakaOrigami]

Adding to the previous comments, women of the corseting eras died from some of these dieseases not because of the corsets they wore, but because these illnesses were just being spread around. Men died of these diseases as well as they were not in the stuctured corsets of the time.

[@kellywilliams529]

I have never heard of "double boned". What is that? Why would you do that?

[@FrauMase]

Kelly Williams double boned has two bones along each seam. mostly used for training corsets with high reduction over several hours of wear. also for support of large bossom in demi or overbust corsets. they are so much more comfortable in my opinion

[@AGirlFromDownUnder]

*Squee* Eeeheeheehee! *Flail*