Counterflow wort chiller, build and test

[@AdamColwell]

Best counter-chiller build video, ever. I've been meaning to build one for a while, but imperial measurements and a parts list I'd have no hope of full-filling here in the outer suburbs of Melbourne have stalled my efforts time and again. Checking the website now, everything you have listed is available at Bunnings down the road.. Guess what I'm making this weekend :)

[@scotthorten586]

Brilliant! As important as this is for building your own CFC it is equally educational regarding exactly how a CFC works exactly. 11 years on and still valuable

[@Time4Another1]

Hi Stefano, I hook up the counterflow to the kettle and pump boiling wort through it and back into the kettle again to sanitise it for about 10 minutes before I turn on the cold water for chilling. Then at the end of the brew day, It is left connected to the kettle during cleaning and all of the cleaning solution used in the kettle is run through the it to flush it and clean it out.

[@gotsomecraic]

Me and a mate were so impressed we made one each. We found compression fittings, tees etc that did the job nicely, haven't soldered for 20yrs so that got interesting but got the copper in the tube so all good. Problem is the tap water here is 23 degs so now looking at making a recirculating water chilled reservoir to get from 35degs(current wort exit temp) to 22degs. But to chill wort from 100degs to 35 in 10secs shows how efficiently it works all for $85. Thanks for sharing!

[@Time4Another1]

gotsomecraic that is awesome, cheers

[@Time4Another1]

Yes the longer the pipe, the more surface area and a better transfer. You could probably increase the flow rate for a faster cool down also with a longer pipe. But one thing to consider is that the water flowing in the opposite direction will eventually start putting the heat back into the wort, and eqaulize the wort and the water to the same temp. It would take some serious algebra to calculate the exact length of pipe needed before that started happening. Cheers

[@wingy200]

Thank you for sharing this video! I built one of these a few months ago using this video as a guide. The plumbing department at the hardware store became my second home for a couple weeks while I figured the connections out. I ended up drilling the compression fittings like you recommended, and everything came together and sealed up nicely. I've brewed two batches with it so far, and it works like a charm. Your channel has outstanding content.

[@Time4Another1]

This CFC has now cooled over 180ltr of wort without any leaks, and an average cooling time from boil to pitching temp of 15min per 20ltr. Well worth the build

[@matthewcusolito1818]

Just wanted to say thanks for putting this video up. I built this thing a while back and it has improved my brewing process so much. Love the videos. Keep up the good work.

[@Time4Another1]

that is awesome thank you for the message Matthew, Cheers Paul

[@briangillick]

Absolutely awesome piece of craftsmanship. Well done. If you put this much care and effort into your equipment, I can only imagine how good your beer tastes. Is there any chance you could put up an exact list of what you used for the build (what to ask for in the store). I would love to give this a go. :)

[@Time4Another1]

Hi Rick, I went to a plumbing wholesaler, and looked around at all the bits, trying them out for size, sort of an adhock design process. The most important part was finding a reducer that fit the snuggly around the internal copper pipe that I had.

[@jerryonbass]

Hi there, I built mine based on this video, works great! was getting extremely sick of my immersion chiller. BTW your brewery looks awesome. Thanks for the info, Jeremy.

[@chad1035]

That was the sickest build I've ever seen...I want to do this right now! Cheers to you!

[@xander0713]

This is awesome. I built my immersion chiller which is working fine for now (I only do 23L brews). I'll use this vid as a resource when I'm ready for a counterflow chiller. Thanks!

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers for the comment. The copper that the wort runs through doesnt have any obstructions so its pretty easy to clean by hooking it up to a pump and recirculating cleaner through it. Before I use it I pump the boiling wort through it and back into the kettle, that kills anything that could be left behind. As for sediment I haven't had it block up yet, pipe ID is about 10mm, plus I normally whirl pool, or run through a turb filter first so sediment is minimal coming in. Cheers have another1

[@aorakiboydog]

Man we miss you

[@thayercoburn]

I made one of these myself years ago, and it works like a charm. I think coiling wire around the beer tube to create turbulence is unnecessary (not to mention the hardest part of this process). The copper tube doesn't sit perfectly centered in the hose, and the variations in the water gap will create plenty of turbulence on their own.

[@Time4Another1]

Hi Michele, that will be fine, the glaze will burn off where you weld the wire to the pipe, and only water is running on the outside of the pipe so no glaze containment will effect your beer. Try to weld a bit of glazed wire first, and see how well it bonds though, just to be sure.

[@Time4Another1]

I have a pipe flaring tool, and I used that to flare out the end enough so that when I screwed in a 1/2" nipple it compressed against the flare to might a tight seal. A metal spike would do the same thing with a bit of force behind it. Another option is to use a silicone washer to create a tight fit. Cheers

[@JohnWS1989]

could you write down a complete list of items to buy for this?=)

[@paulnash7061]

Brilliant video! Built one based on this very succinct advice. Thanks! Cools in one pass from boiling to 18/19C.

[@4ttys]

I really like your video and have decided to make one of these chillers as well. I'm a newborn to brewing, currently putting together my equipment. I've already made my keggle with the same 3 piece ball valve ending as the one in this vid. What I can't get my head around is how do you withold hops from clogging your thin diameter copper spiral pipe? I'd like to add whole and pellett hops directly in the keggle without using bags or spiders.

[@Time4Another1]

4ttys Great stuff, its awesome getting gear ready for a brew setup. My kettle has its dip tube 1/4 from the outside edge, so after a whirlpool the hops form a cone in the centre and don't clog anything. I always use pallets though, as they don't clump together while the hot wort is flowing, leaf hops would form a blockage. Luckily I have never had any blockages, a good pump with a decent flow rate will keep everything moving. Cheers

[@Watermelon-zs3tq]

Thank you for taking the time to put this together. How do you sanitize/sterilize this device? That is, especially to ensure that there are no deposits which remain to cause off-flavors, etc.

[@Time4Another1]

After a brew I flush it with water to clear it out, then drain it. Then on the next brew day, before I start to cool the wort through it, I hook it up to the kettle and recirculate the boiling wort for 15min. That sanitises it up. I cool my wort by recirculating it back into the kettle until the entire kettle volume has reached pitching temp, then transfer to the fermentor. I haven't had any issues with it at all, no off flavours etc. But I am looking at another counterflow design, one that is parallel, so that you can actually get line of sight through the copper. But thats another video, that will be coming up soon. Cheers

[@immolateus]

Awesome Design!!!! I loved my "rib-cage chiller" design, but it is still a simple design with no counterflow. I am re-building the brewery and think Im gonna build this next! I love it!!! Thank you for sharing.

[@mittelfruh]

There's a name I remember from the past. In case you don't know, Paul passed away the end of 2015.

[@toddalanp]

Using cornelius keg to coil ... love it, classic DIY ... very creative, great build, and good video. Already have a really effective coil chiller (not counterflow) but I'm gonna give this one a go.

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers Todd

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers Dave, the clear tubing is cool, I am going to use 1/2" clear Polycarbonate for my brewery plumbing, so I can see the flows everywhere, one big sight glass! might even bling it by putting LED light strips behind it to.

[@SneakyDemon117]

What a fantastic build. I'll be pitching making this to my brew buddies.

[@Time4Another1]

Unfortunately not, I went to plumbing supply shop with my copper tube and put together the bits that I needed, so I didnt think of keeping a note of the part sizes. But in one of my other videos "Counterflow chiller, Homebrew Wednesday Episode 3" I layout the bits that I got. Hope that helps and cheers for the sub

[@garthedwards3089]

RIP Paul. Great video.

[@llpBR]

Loved the idea. Unfortunately i will no be able to find such a large hose in my country.

[@davidread2394]

Very, very nice mate. Great Kiwi ingenuity. I am SO over my plate chiller. I will definitely be trying this build.

[@Time4Another1]

Hi Aaron, I have mine connected to a march pump, so it has no issue. I tried it with a gravity flow but, like you suggested the overall length of pipe is just to much to handle, there are also to many opportunities for air pockets to form and restrict the flow. I have to prime mine by pumping into it, to ensure all of the air has been expelled. If I rely on gravity to fill the coil, the liquid soon equalises pressure after a couple of coils and then, its going nowhere.

[@dgr35676]

Well done video. Key I was looking for is the connection from the outflow of the kettle to the pump, then the chiller. Nice job showing how it is done all the way through, though.

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers Gordon, the flare seems to be holding up fine, I have run it a couple of times without the wort lines connect to see if it was leaking, but looks all good. I have been meaning to get a silicone seal to ensure a tighter fit against the flare also, just havent got to it yet.

[@soulslikebirds]

have you thought to put a valve on the out put? That may help bring the water temp. up and the wort temp down by giving the wort more contact time with the liqur. I like what you are doing ! Very nice. I'll have to make one myself. Do you have a list of parts? That would be a great help. Thanks

[@Time4Another1]

if you mean the output of the waste water, no. I can control the flow of the water going in via the main water tap, and there is a ball valve to restrict the wort coming out, so that allows for pretty good heat transfer. I have found that slowing the water down you get better cooling, instead of having the water full bore. Unfortunately I don't have a list of parts, as some the parts were picked up from a local plumbing store and are not globally available. However I have a brand new counterflow video that I am working on at the moment, and with that one all the parts I have chosen can be sourced from international supplies, so that anyone can make it. Cheers

[@soulslikebirds]

Thank. looking forward for the new and improved counter flow video. Hope to have some videos of my own some time down the rode of the brewing and random stuff that I'm doing in Northern BC Canada. :) Much love

[@KeithChristofferson]

That is pretty sweet!! I'm trying to decide whether to build something like this, or buy a plate chiller. Your solution was really elegant though, great little package.

[@Time4Another1]

Keith Christofferson I have used plate chillers before, but they blocked and caused cavitation issues with most of my brewdays. However alot of brewers haven't had any issues with them at all. I also have a parallel counterflow chiller build that I have done as well. Parallel Counterflow Chiller part 1 of 3 I built this to look at the tear down and cleaning of a counterflow chiller.

[@KeithChristofferson]

Time4Another1 That's interesting! I'll take a look. Did you find your coil counterflow ever had blockage or debris issues, or was the motivation to make a parallel counterflow chiller more so just for piece of mind?

[@Time4Another1]

yes, I pump back into the kettle to bring the entire volume of the kettle to pitching temp, I have done a video called the "chill off challenge" where on I compare both recirculation and straight into the fermentor, and both methods took the same amount of time. But I prefer recirculating as it is easy to setup, and a no fuss method, were as straight into the fermentor ball valve adjustment is needed to control output temp.

[@coolrusskiy]

Very important! Hot and cold water must tiles in the opposite direction!

[@MartinCEvans]

This looks like an amazing device. But is there a list of parts somewhere that I've overlooked?

[@kevbou911]

Hello, I love your DIY cunterflow, It doesn't so hard to make one. I understand the first part, (roll the wire on the pipe, solder it to the pipe and put it in the pvc pipe) but it after I'm not sur of what I must do .... can you tell me what to buy at my hardware store to plug the cunterflow. And I'm not sur that i'm understanding how the colded water is separated to the beer with the "T brass" ... did you soldered to the copper pipe? (because when you make your water test at the end of your video it leaked a little bit).

[@Time4Another1]

Hi, Unfortunately I don't have a parts list for the counter flow, as I simply went down to a local plumbing store and "dry fitted" bits together and they only had code numbers, not actual descriptions of the parts. In the end where the copper pipe comes through the "T" there is a 1/2" male to 1/2" female brass reducer, which has an internal diameter the same as the external diameter of the copper pipe. So it is a tight snug fit, the small amount of leakage was corrected by flaring the end of the copper pipe. I would recommend now however using compression fittings, and I actually have a new video coming out soon with a completely new design. Cheers

[@kevbou911]

Time4Another1 can't wait to see this new video .... and what kind of plastique pipe did you use to make yours counterflow ?

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers glad you enjoyed the video. I have plans for a second version on the drawing board now, want something that I can had plumb in a bit better with my brew setup.

[@swissair321]

That is a good video. Really nice. I will try it. What kind of pump did you bought, does it cope with the temperature ?

[@ronnyhelstad3146]

Thanks for Greate video, can you list up the parts do use, please.

[@Time4Another1]

I have a mate that got me the copper, he works in air conditioning, and 1/2" is the standard that they use. Cheers Your CNC project looks great, I have been wanting to put together my own CNC.

[@LenTexDIY]

Great music selection for the spot. Great info. Thanks for filming and posting it!

[@timfoster7369]

Is there a limit to the length of copper tubing when NOT using a pump? I have a 20 foot run of copper tube but I don't want to have to purchase a pump, wondering if gravity will be enough. Thanks for the great video.

[@carloscarmichael7584]

Do you have a list of parts. I would like to try and build one of these myself

[@MaartenEssenburg]

yes, would love to make one too!

[@DANGERFroggs]

Did you ever compile a list of where you got your copper fittings? Especially that wonderful swivel fitting? Wonderful build by the way.

[@Time4Another1]

I picked up the swivel fitting in the garden hose section of a hardware store.

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers, glad you liked it. Love the glass airlock on your mead, looks so much classier than a plastic one.

[@hifly1929]

Best wort chiller i`ve seen so far! Nice work.

[@exploreraa983]

Hi, Id be keen to see a materials list for this if you have one. Cheers!

[@skoue4165]

That is soldering BTW not welding. Good job I am planning to do something very similar.

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers, I brought heavy gauge electrical wire and stripped the insulation of it, it is about 1mm thick wire. Galvanized would be okay though, as its primary purpose is to create turbulence not heat transfer. It might start to rust though at the welds, although solder would protect it somewhat. An alternative would be aluminium, but then soldering could be an issue.

[@mitchellcox1912]

We still miss you. RIP

[@dmithsmith5880]

That is a lot of work for something that works just as good as a regular coil. I use 2 double 1/2 coils. one in a ice pre chiller and one for immersion, just running straight garden hose water through it can crash 12 gals of boiling wart to 70deg in 11 mins flat.

[@lamprosmuda]

Nice work. Please I've never had a chance to see this myself (Africa things) but I would love to know if it's possible for the cold water outlet temperature to rise to a temperature close to that of the hot beer say 94 degree celsius and for the hot beer to cool down to say 13 degree celsius. Thanks.

[@Time4Another1]

lamprosmuda the hottest I have had the water come out is around 75ºC, and wort will cool down to 22ºC, theres must be a thermal limit for transfer, however I the water temp to start with is around18ºC so if I chilled the water I could effectively chill the wort cooler as well.

[@lamprosmuda]

Thanks Sir.

[@lamprosmuda]

I've been mentally working on an idea. What if the length of the heat transfer pipes are made longer, perhaps it could approach right?

[@Time4Another1]

lamprosmuda I thought about that too, I looked at thermal dynamic calculations to try and work it out, but they were far to complicated. Trial and error was the best way :) At some point the water will get to an equal temperature as the wort, and any further length after that point is not doing any heat transfer. The best way I have found to increase efficiency is to restrict the flow of the wort coming out.

[@Time4Another1]

Once water is flowing the turbulence settles down. The theory behind the wire around the pipe, is to increase the travel path for the water passing over the copper. So instead of flowing along the pipe it flows in a spiral around the pipe. this means that water has a longer contact time to transfer heat. The wire also adds a little bit more surface area for heat transfer, even though it is minimal. Ideally Convoluted pipe, of finned pipe would be more efficient, but is wire is easier for DIY

[@shakilsheik9275]

hi , thats a fine work. i need to know how long will it gives such efficiency. when the copper gets over heat wat will happen.

[@RickWeberSR]

Those couplings are sweet. The only improvement I would make is to add an o2 in port somehow, close to, but after where the wort in port is, so that you could aerate as you cooled. I do see some cavitation happening in there though, so aeration might just be happenging naturally anyway. All in all, nice setup.

[@MicheleMilidoni]

Great project! Can I use copper wire glazed to coil around pipe? Or I have to pulish with sand?

[@hernandodurana4863]

Looks fine. My question: Can this system be used recirculating the same water? I need to process water batches for about half an hour and water warms up from 60°F to 110°F, and I need to maintain about the same initial temperature.

[@Time4Another1]

Hernando Durana hi Hernando, those temperatures should be fine for a prolonged period of time. The Clear PVC tube I use has a heat rating of 150ºF before it starts to degrade. Any prolonged temps above 176ºF should use silicone that can handle the higher temps. Note thought that the water being recirculated is not potable, at that temperature chemicals can be leeched from the PVC, anything that is only touching copper will be fine though, Cheers

[@kzeidan1]

+Time4Another1 Can you give a BOM for the parts? Preferably with some Amazon links.

[@kreynolds1123]

"Note thought that the water being recirculated is not potable" Certainly. The lead in solder contributes to the water not being potable.

[@deborahsmith8025]

as in sap

[@davesden1]

Keith Reynolds theres no lead in solder

[@joseluislopezramirez6303]

That's a good method! But I wanted to know if I can use a pump to continuous use for cycles of 12 complete hours or all the process has to be in pauses? the amount of water that I am going to work are 80 liters in a container.

[@Time4Another1]

Jose Luis Lopez Ramirez I have used the counterflow to continually recirculate 40ltr of hot wort back into the kettle, and then turned on the cold water to chill the entire volume in about 30min. If you are looking at using a counterflow for a prolonged heat exchange period, I cant see any issue with that, at some point the heat exchange will stabilise, ie both fluid sources should reach the same temp.

[@nathan27bryans]

I know u have the valve for the wort at the start of the chiller.....but would actually having that valve full open and a second valve at the end where it drops into the pot actually increase the surface area of contact inside the copper pipe? My thought is if the top valve is only partially open then it would not fill the pipe but only fill the bottom and have an air space at the top of the pipe? Valve at bottom restricting flow would allow to still slow the flow but also fill the tube thus making the 1/2" copper full and in full contact with the chilled water!

[@Time4Another1]

nathan27bryans yes when I put the chiller in place in the brewery I fitted a ball valve at the out end, for exactly the reason you mentioned. I had it setup like that for the video though to make sure if it sprung a leak, I could turn it off quickly :)

[@wundamutt]

This looks like a great piece of kit. I'm going to start making one very soon. What did you use and how did you flare out the copper pipe to stop the leaks?

[@pedrogouveia1432]

hi, fantastic video. Wich pump is that you use at the start of the chiller?

[@kated1080]

Hey, great video. We are having a heck of time finding the proper size fitting that fit snuggly around the 1/2 od copper tub and thread to the 1/2 npt brass T. Any idea what fitting you used? Thanks!

[@Time4Another1]

Kate DOrazio Hi Kate, an alternative is to use a 1/2" compression fitting that is drilled out, heres a video about that @l6jbT2pGcwU. This allows for the copper pipe to pass straight through and then be sealed by the compression flange. My local hombrew store has all the end components ready to go, so this link might help you put the pieces together. allgrain.co.nz/product_info.php?cPath=14_51&products_id=329&osCsid=4o7gl89mg9327ro7a4egttcv10 hope that helps, cheers

[@Time4Another1]

Time4Another1 compression drilling video kzbin.info/www/bejne/omfNk4dopayWrbc

[@Time4Another1]

As long as it is lead-free flux it is safe, like the solder and flux used in most plumbing. A good clean down with boiling water cleans away any flux that is left over also. 95% of the soldering is also on the water side of the pipe.

[@thebrewer3283]

That threaded nipple that you have going into the tubing and connecting to the tee.....is a MUCH larger inside diameter than the ones I've been able to source. Did you have to special order it? all of the fittings that I've found fit super tight on the copper. I honed mine out as much as I could....but it doesn't have nearly the open flow which yours does. Any tips on where to look for that larger inner diameter piece? Thanks, Chris

[@Time4Another1]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you Chris, your comment had been hidden for some reason. That nipple was off the shelf at the plumbing shop, there is about 2mm tolerance around the copper pipe. I know the smaller inner dia ones you are talking about, as they are what Stainless Steel NTP nipples are usually like. The best solution I can offer is to try another plumbing supply, a trade supply normally has more parts than a hardware store. I am also in the process of doing videoing a brand new counterflow chiller design, one with parts that I know are available from eBay, it is also a parallel design. Cheers

[@Dav4122]

Great video! Do you remember where you got your copper wire from? I can't seem to find any for sale, but can find galvanized steel wire (although i would have to sand off the galvanized layer for each weld)

[@jaredvenerussi3437]

Thanks for the video instructions mate. I am thinking of building one, but would like to ask if this will work just by gravity feeding the wort through? also I am thinking of going to 9 meters 13mm (1/2 inch) of copper pipe. what are your thoughts.

[@Time4Another1]

Jared Venerussi Hi Jared, gravity feed would work perfectly well, the beer flow would be slower, and therefore more heat should be exchanged. You possibly dont have to go to 9m, but it wouldn't hurt. At the worst the last couple of meters might not be exchanging much heat.

[@jaredvenerussi3437]

Thanks for the advice. I might go to 6 m then. I've got a good plumber mate that's gonna solder it all up for me. I will let you know how it goes when its all done. thanks again.

[@brenidiniz]

Fantastic!!! Congrats for this nice job. I'm from Brazil and I was wondering what's the brand of this compact pump that you have at the outlet of the kettle? Thanks.

[@Time4Another1]

Vinicius Diniz heres a link for the pumps www.ussolarpumps.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71_116_136 they are great little pumps I have never had any issues with them at all. They are also available on eBay, if you search via the pump description. but I have found directly from the supplier is the best price. Cheers

[@brenidiniz]

Thank you very much for the prompt answer!! Once again, congrats for the fantastic job. Cheers!

[@aussie4x467]

Gone but not forgotten. Rip mate.

[@handle13699]

Great vid, great system! What is your source for cold water? Is 13 degrees your ambient temperature? Thanks

[@rvnricardo]

Fiz um com 8 metros de tubo de cobre 3/8.. e mangueira de 5/8.. sensacional! Obrigado por ensinar!

[@Time4Another1]

after the brew, I run the kettle cleaning water through it, and finally star sans. Then I let it drain and the star sans evaporates. Before I use it again, I also run the boiling wort through it, and back into the kettle for 10 min to give it a further sanitise.

[@blasstoria]

Hi! I'm building a cooler system for a milk prosses plant. Could you give the name of the connectors that you're using and what kind of whater pumb are you using? Thanx!

[@Time4Another1]

Cheers Dan, it was easy to build to, I thought that I may have hit some obstacles on the way but it turned out sweet.

[@jacobwilson9083]

Great video. Can someone find all that stuff at a home depot? Its a box hardware store in the states.

[@MacGuyver77]

You should be able to find most of the equipment he used. You won't be able to find the triclover fittings though. You could use compression fittings to terminate the water line after the T's. That will keep the water away from the wort. Then at the end of the copper you could sweat on any fitting you want, or just leave it straight and connect hoses with worm gear clamps.

[@jacobwilson9083]

Great. Looks like I've got a weekend project now

[@johnterrance3075]

Silly question, but if your kettle doesn't have a connection port/outlet for the counterflow chiller, can you still make the counterflow chiller work somehow?

[@neethinathan]

that is awsum to see this how to make chiller i have a situation i have an aquarium which temperature is 35 degree bt the regular constant requirement is 25 degree will this model will help me in chilling out my tank and get the consent temperature and the flow should be in flow frm one side to chilled out flow should be from other side pls let me know whatever is the answer thankyou

[@Time4Another1]

Neethi Nathan It could work for an aquarium but it may be to efficient, the counterflow is designed to take boiling wort down to 20ºC in under 15-20min. with the small temperature adjustment that you are after you maybe able to do it with a circulation pump that has a length of tubing coiled up in a small container of iced water, but you would want to have the pump automatically turn off once the water reached temp. A work colleague of mine has recently built a large salt water aquarium, and I seem to recall that there are off the shelf units that can maintain the temperature.

[@luisantoniofloressanchez9337]

How do you clean your system to avoid contamination in your next beer, or will it not contaminate you? Greetings from Tijuana Mexico

[@wesleypowell3711]

great video, have you had any problems with that pump in the hot fluid?

[@turner111971]

I built this also after watching your video...soldering every 4" doesn't hold it...the solder ends up breaking loose. had to use another method to hold it, ended up getting all of the copper pipe in but 18 inches of it out of a 20ft section...after rolling it on the keg, ended up with 7 coils....

[@Time4Another1]

turner111971 I had a couple of solder spots ping off as well, a bit of sand paper to roughen up the pipe helped. 7 coils is pretty good, thats what I ended up with also.

[@stefanopassiglia]

Great video. One question: how do you sterilize the chiller prior to its use? Just flowing some sanitized water through the copper pipe would be enough?

[@kokigami5492]

One other thing. I use buckets with my immersion chiller. The garden loves it 🍻👍

[@GuydeLombard]

Amazing build! Brilliant! I've heard that counterflow chillers can be tricky to clean inside the copper tubing what with potential sediment leaking in from the brew pot. Have you experienced this and how do you take care of the cleaning?

[@JesterStuttle]

Hi cap!

[@boharris8179]

Nice build but I've got to be that guy. That's not welding 😉that's soldering aka sweating. Welding is melting the 2 materials together along with a filler material. That can be done with metals or plastics with heat or chemicals. Soldering is basically glueing the pieces using heat. Next time you have to do some soldering try n get ahold of some stay Brite liquid flux. If you use silver bearing solder it will bond about any metal including stainless,copper,brass, aluminum and even cast iron or mild steel in any combination. The stuff is amazing

[@chrisaitken55]

This is bloody awesome, another little project to build! If you would do this again, what would you change? Longer coil? Could you recirc the water used for cooling in a bank and reduce wastage? Also, what part of NZ are you in?

[@RickWeberSR]

Where'd you find the brass fittings, and which ones did you buy? Was that a hardware store purchase or online?

[@JornikHendrix]

that was awesome!!! if you had a 7meter coil instead of 5meter it would be even better because the wort is more dense than water so it will chill not as easily. anyway great idea and I envy your Kiln/BrewPot

[@LouwrensvanderMerwe]

Very nice! Much nicer and cleaner than an immersion chiller. Keep up the good work.

[@Time4Another1]

I have a Sabco Chill Wizard and an Immersion Chiller, but this counterflow leaves them for dust. Its awesome.

[@danr308]

Super nice! I am going to attempt to duplicate this really soon. I have an immersion chiller that isn't cutting it. I am going to try to unwind it and use it for this counter flow design. I wonder it this is gonna work? Hahaha. Top notch video.

[@Time4Another1]

danr308 be careful unwinding the copper, as it tends to buckle and crack after it has been bent for a long period of time. If you can, fill the tube with salt completely and bung the ends, "probably a bit hard when its coiled up", but the salt acts as counter pressure to prevent buckling when you bend it. Then run hot water through it to dissolve out the salt again. Cheers

[@ancemt]

Hi, Do you have a shopping list of parts that you used to build this, particularly the fittings and connectors on each end? Much Thanks!

[@DRTMaverick]

Time4another1, instead of flaring the pipe, can I just get a silicone seal that will fit between or would flaring be better?

[@gordonmedley]

Nice video. Have you found any issues with the flared tubing leaking again in to your wort? I would be a little worried it may start up again after repeated use/movement. Great idea using the clear tubing for a visual effect. Cheers.

[@BigJimmysPlace]

where did you pick up the pump from? the chiller looks great

[@mattseipel6180]

Love the design and I'm thinking about a build. My question relates to sanitation, is it hard to keep clean? Do you have any tips for keeping bacteria out?

[@Time4Another1]

Matt Seipel Sanitation is easy, after a brew day the coil is flushed with water and drained. At the beginning of the brew day the coil is flushed again with water, and hooked up to the kettle. Before cooling the wort, the wort is recirculated through the counterflow without the cooling water running for 10 minutes, that way the boiling wort sanitises any small microbes that are in the copper tube before starting to cool. I have also built a parallel counterflow chiller, that allows for line of sight through the copper pipe, as I was curious about any possible build up in the pipe, but I haven't found anything that can cause issues. A 10-15min recirculation of boiling water kills all battery and microbes. Cheers Matt, thanks for watching

[@mattseipel6180]

Thanks for the reply. I'll be building this winter. Cheers

[@WizardVespian]

Time4Another1 Not only this, but copper already has anti-microbial and anti-fungal properties. Hospitals are starting to use it on surfaces that are touched often (bed rails, door handles etc) for this reason. I'd be satisfied just making sure that it is properly flushed. If you're really paranoid about it you could of course circulate hot wort through it, or just mix up some sanitizer in the kettle and let it drain through the cooler into your fermenter or another vessel (this way you can get more use out of it) before you put your wort through it.

[@mjprable]

Time4Another1 f

[@jeffreyvaughn7760]

Was the water used to chill from a garden hose with a stable temp? Or did you pump it through with Ice (chilled) Water? Thanks great video!

[@tommurg]

I apologize if this was asked already, but can post a link to where you purchased the pump? And it looks like it's DC and you have it hooked up to some sort of charger?

[@roddynash]

Great video! What length of pipe and tube did you use for the project? Cheers

[@Time4Another1]

Roddy Nash it was about 5 meters long, cheers

[@roddynash]

Thanksq