James Hardie Siding Details! How To Install It By Yourself! DIY

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[@michaeldvorak5556]

Thank you for sharing. Might be a good idea to seal the ends. Cement board will suck up water. Something else to consider is nailing the siding to vertical furring strips to get air flow behind the siding to assist in drying. This would require a bug barrier.

[@scottd2986]

Decent job and install tips but needs a few tweaks. Metal flashing at butt joints is expensive and requires more prep. Metal will corrode with direct contact with a cement based product, have to paint back of boards that come in contact with the flashing to prevent that from happening. A far cheaper alternative is roofing felt, either 15 or 30# is a better way to go. But if you have tyvek wrap left over that is the absolute perfect choice, it's paper thin, breathable if water somehow manages to get in (hurricane driven rain)so it can evaporate, and it's already paid for and on site. Cut a bunch of pieces and you're good to go. Framing nailer is a bad idea, teeth on the end that hold onto wood mar and or crack the siding very easily. High wind areas required double nailing so will see nails and finish on lower edge of the boards. Don't want teeth marks on your finished siding.Plus the diameter of framing nails is way too large for this siding. Siding gun or hand nail with. 092 or close to it in diameter is highly recommended. I also highly recommend stainless ring shank in high humidity area like Florida where I live. Pricey but a guarantee that will last as long as the siding. And lastly gecko gauges are worth their weight in gold, amazing product and adjustable in 1/4" incrimates for various widths of siding. Picked up a set online for $60, wish I knew them years ago as you don't need to pay a helper to hold the other side of the board, can be done with one person and the magical tools.

[@tyyoung4104]

So, do you recommend caulking between butt joints?

[@iandunn206]

@@tyyoung4104 Hardie says don't caulk them, just put flashing behind them and butt them up close.

[@JW-cm7zs]

My husband replaced our old siding with hardie plank boards. Absolutely love it.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

That is awesome!

[@jameslacey460]

You can always spot and EDUCATED individual. They are articulate, poised, fluid -- like you. GREAT video, no wasted time or information, no questions remained. THANKS!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Glad it was helpful.

[@jfespinoza02]

Kind of irnoic. "You can always spot and EDUCATED individual." when it should say "you can always spot an EDUCATED individual."

[@tyyoung4104]

Hi, thankyou for your video. So, when two ends are butted together, is the gap left as is, or do you caulk it?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

No need to caulk the gap. Just put flashing behind it.

[@GotCamel]

Convenient that he ended the video right before needing to cut around the block out. Would've been nice to see it instead of just being explained. Thanks.

[@kevinwonder3492]

Absolutely agree and no response to you comment with a follow up

[@mc1738]

Interesting how free instruction and sharing of knowledge gets criticized

[@Cole-lz8ni]

@@mc1738 constructive criticism is important, if he sees the comment he’ll do better in the future

[@freedombro6502]

Yeah, I was hoping to see how he would do that detail.

[@ToddThompson-du9mx]

It didn’t go well that’s the reason obviously. I kept thinking he was going to start calling it Jimmys siding. James Hardy Siding nope never heard of iii…..Oooooooohhhhhjhj, you mean Jimmys siding, yeah we call him Jimmy, that’s what all his friends call him, whenever we need it we just call up the warehouse and say yeah two bundles of ole jimmy boys siding… warehouse? oh uh, yeah the ole warehouse, depot something… Home shop or something, oh Home Depot, yeah that’s sound right ole Jimmys shop. Lmao. same guy who lets everyone working at a restaurant he knows the owner and the owner is like who??

[@tholi1052]

Overall a good video, but, you make the same mistake as every other how to cement board video. Many want to know about the material behind the homewrap. Did you use plywood, di you use foam insulation< what kind, how much, why? For a partial video, you did a good job.

[@yeeebayeeba4268]

@tholi1052 depends on the house construction. If it's wood frame, then plywood with underlayment(tyvex). If CBC, you can use batten strips.

[@jayboley9683]

You can use peel and stick tape or tar paper for butt joints also

[@DawiAreg-go9wr]

Your illustrations are great. Few points that you brought up that James hardy did not suggest butt joint is a problem at all. They even recommend it because the plank does not expand or contract. If you have a wood panel for the house, you can randomly nail the planks. I thank you for your video. The price of Gecko runs from 28 - 86 but the one you are using is 19 to 25 as of today per the websites.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thanks

[@jsand8301]

You should have shown us how you worked around that electrical block.

[@RossWilliamsDC]

Great idea to use pt for trim. Nice savings. Aluminum flashing, however, should not be in contact with it with your drip caps, etc., as it will corrode rather quickly due to the extra copper in the treated wood. Great video. Thanks.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Will it corrode galvanized flashing?

[@Astrnauted]

@@CountryLivingExperience you need to use copper flashing for PTit comes in a roll

[@nfn7121]

@@CountryLivingExperience yes

[@MonicaSmith]

@@Astrnauted what is "PT" in your comment above?

[@shotgunman432]

@@MonicaSmith Pressure Treated

[@21gonza21]

I wish you would have showed how to trim around the windows, do we leave 1/8 gap around the window for caulking ?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Yes, leave a small gap for caulk.

[@alizainulabedin]

This video deserves more views, nciely explained in such an easy to undertand manner for even newbies like me.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Much appreciated

[@neilsolano8874]

Nice vid. But Hardie does say to butt the joints, and to not leave spacing. Hardie doesnt expand

[@lennygriffin4464]

Your doing a fantastic job !!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you so much!

[@KDservicesgardencarent]

Can they be screw on a metal? As i want only to make a good passage in my outdoor shelves.

[@21gonza21]

Could I use my 21* degree framing gun?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Yep

[@brentjohnson6654]

Another great video. I am considering hardy board for a shed on my Texas property. I am replacing the external sheeting (OSB) and may use hardy board as a Wayne’s coating for the lower portion. I don’t have a good idea on how to keep the OSB dry but maybe flashing and caulking are involved. By the way the existing siding is vinyl. Thanks and all the best from north Texas.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You’re welcome. Yes, you’ll need flashing and caulk to transition materials.

[@kathyglass2922]

Thank you so much for sharing the details and giving us close up visuals. I'm assuming it's your wife who is holding the camera. Shout out and thank you to her for taking her time to be detailed and zooming in to show us the tiny details(for example at the point when you say " 1/8 gap from our trim and our siding, our nail is about an inch from the top" and "hanging a little below the starter strip" ) seriously, thank you. I appreciate the honesty, sincerity, and the explanation.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you Kathy. Glad the video was helpful. I am the one moving the camera all around. My wife said thank you anyway though.

[@kathyglass2922]

@@CountryLivingExperience But who got the close ups? Give a shout out to your wife. Tell her you love her.

[@GarySherrill]

I would like to see how to cut and go around the block-out. Thanks for the video.

[@kng2bishop]

My 2019 Hardie instructions say but the joints in moderate contact with the flashing card behind. Great videos, very helpful!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Glad it was helpful

[@harrydoherty8299]

i caulked the trim board ends first so it’s sealed as the hardy board is installed and it fills the gap nicely. i’m not a pro. it just made sense to me.

[@tyyoung4104]

If you gap it properly, caulking at completion is sufficient.

[@danljames9503]

Thank you for your insight. Two Q's: 1.) How do you cover the nails on the top layer of siding? I haven't seen anyone cover that issue in any video. 2.) I couldn't quite catch how to treat the top of the block (or a window, for example). Do you put an "L" shaped flashing piece above the top trim board? Thank you! The flashing between joined pieces helped.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome. 1. you can either bring it to the underside of the soffit and put a piece of trim on top or place that trim first like on the sides and butt that last piece into it. You have to make a very precise cut to do that though. 2. Yes, just use a piece of z flashing or bend one yourself for above any opening/block out.

[@amandaswiderek2044]

Great video! I may be attempting to install Hardie on a few sides of my home in the near future and this video gave me a lot of helpful information. Any chance you have a video on how to prep/ install Tyvex etc. before putting the siding up? Or is there a video you can recommend?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thanks. Glad it was helpful. I don't have a video on installing the Tyvek. It is easy. Just staple it to the wall sheathing. Layer it starting from the bottom of the wall and working up.

[@edisonurrego775]

Can you please make a quick video how to cut the material around obstacles, I kind of wanted to see how you did that and the final results, I have a job coming next month , and I can definitely use your help, thank you

[@CountryLivingExperience]

They are just simple cuts. Every job will be different. Just cut as you need.

[@ncsuduke]

I didn't see the nailer and type of nails you used in the description. Very helpful. I have my trim done, studs marked, about ready to buy materials and go.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

I used a 21° framing nailer with 2.25" plastic ring shank nails.

[@distanceman8147]

​@@CountryLivingExperience I was so happy to see you using a framing gun... I have successfully used a 21 degree framer with 2 1/4 ring shanks. However I started questioning myself.

[@Bbdetecting]

@@distanceman8147 I am happy see him using it to I’m new to hardie board couldn’t figure out what gun to use other than seeing coil gun and I knew I wouldn’t use that again so this makes my day

[@dm285]

It's the worst material I have ever used because it creates an absolutely gigantic dusty mess over anything and everything within about 15 feet of the cut. Breathing in the dust, even using a respirator....you will still breath in the dust accidentally..once in awhile while cutting ...and its really bad news for your lungs! The dust has millions of pieces of silica and once in your lungs the particles are really bad for your lungs. For the above reason, I would never use the product again, nor could I in good conscience recommend it to anyone out there to use....it's just not worth the mess and risk to ones health in my opinion. Instead I would suggest thick quality vinyl insulated siding, steel or aluminum siding...anything but cement board personally.

[@main1033]

@@dm285 just wear a mask?

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

I see in the diagram you post not to caulk certain areas on the wall; this is to allow condensation to run out. I have to redo all my soffit and siding next year as well as replace much of the wall sheathing on the garage. I just replaced the back door to the garage and had to rebuild the entire rough opening and 90" of sheathing because of termite damage. I'll do the remaining 18' next spring along with the soffit and siding. For now I just put back the original siding.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Cool

[@tomcampbell8903]

Wife and i installed that stuff on our house about ten years ago we love it holds paint great and have had zero problems with it so much better than plastic or aluminum siding and about the same cost.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Awesome!

[@genogena1]

How do you hold the very first bottom board by yourself? Also how do you replace the bottom board if it gets cracked or broken? Thanks.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

If a bottom board gets cracked you will need to face nail a new one on if you choose to replace it. As for holding it myself, I just do....it is not that heavy.

[@normannix4623]

Great video! I am using hardie board as a rake trim board and nails will be exposed, What is the best kind of nail you recommend and or do I need to counter sink and caulk over the nail? Thanks in advance!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Hardie board is too thin to countersink. Hardie trim would be better as you can countersink a finish nail. Caulking the nails in all situations is good practice.

[@chuy5152]

Thanks bud, i start a wjole house tomorrow, now im confident im doint it right👍

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome

[@ricardosmb]

How do you determine when to chalk the first line

[@MovieMakingMan]

Do you have to remove old 4x8 siding before installing hardyboard? Or can you just install it over the existing 4x8s?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

This is on a new build. If you have old siding you will probably have to remove it so that the new siding will abut and work with trim around windows and doors correctly.

[@johnkm77]

I got Nichiha instead of hardy, but I was wondering if they actually shrink and expand with temperature fluctuations, so two days ago, when it was 7°F outside I measured the length of one of the planks and it measured right at 12ft. I don't believe it shrinks at all. To give you an idea of how much materials shrink, 6061-T6 Aluminum, 12 ft. long would change 5/32 of an inch between 90°F and 7°F. Polycarbonate would change over 3/8" over the same temperature range for 12ft.

[@benschwald4029]

It's not the hardy that shrinks and expands its the wood around it.

[@GAROmx]

The Malco with inflation in 2024 is $36.55 + tax

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Inflation is a killer tax

[@AngelTorres-bm1nk]

what type of nailer did you use? also great video!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

I used a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shank nails.

[@TroyJPerez]

I was told that the hardy board was too heavy to go directly into studs and requires boards behind it, any truth to this?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

That is not true.

[@victorleon5887]

Great video!! I'm getting ready to do this but had 2 questions: 1. I noticed you're not using a coil siding gun. What's your setup for gun and nails? 2. How did you handle the very top plank so the nails don't show?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thanks. I have a framing nailer with 2.5" plastic ring shanks. Mine show on the top. Paint to hide them.

[@jonathan3982]

Or you could cut something similar to the starter strip to hide the nails, that's what we do when we do siding ( if soffit is already installed). But usually we don't have to worry about that because soffit with J channel will be hiding it.

[@dionfrutos7997]

Got hail damage insurance cut me check line 2 for description Says 2.Builder board-1\2"(composition or fiberboard sheathing). This is conjunction with House wrap?

[@scottrodgerson-hc6nu]

If staying 1” from edge of boards - where do you nail butt joints. 2” need with only 1.5” available.

[@ralphwatten2426]

I'd like to see how you put the siding to the wall yourself and then nailed it yourself and the put the next run on by yourself. That's what I'm up against. That stuff is awkward and heavy for one person to do it yourself. Takes 2 to tango-

[@greytogray3476]

Why didn't you use hardie trim? Just wondering...

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Cost at the time. I needed the 5/4.

[@richardmoe1594]

Question: Can you install this product over old stucco?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Potentially. You may need longer nails depending on how thick the stucco is. Also, existing stucco needs to still be water resistant and in "decent" condition.

[@pdxeddie1111]

you don't stagger? thought it was a big deal to stagger the lengths for strength or something?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Not in this case because the boards are longer than that particular side of the building. No need to stagger.

[@cristianmontero3266]

What type of nailer is that , it's not a coil nail gun ... right?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is a 21° framing nailer.

[@Patrickhenryinator]

I need to replace 3-4 of the lowest Hardie boards on the back of my house. How do I deal with the top layer (which would have to fit under the layer above it? I mean, how would I nail it on when the layer above it is already there, covering up where I would need to nail?

[@jamesgray89]

Well done, about to attempt siding my home with hardie.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you. Good luck

[@kellyc7711]

Great video! Thanks! Question how tall was your starter plank? Does it matter?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome. The starter strip on the bottom was about 2" tall

[@kellyc7711]

@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks!

[@scottf9044]

Why use a chalk line when you can just put a level on every board to verify it's level? Just put 1 nail in one end, adjust and nail.

[@KamotzII]

Excellent video! Thank you! Most videos right now are incomplete, or a someone pointing at stuff from their phone. Great production value!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you so much. Glad it was helpful.

[@harrietkinchlow2129]

Great info. Your explanation gave me a very clear understanding on this product. Thank you.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Glad it was helpful!

[@FarceTheory]

So you can look at a level, but you don't bother to read it! What's wrong with starting parallel and ending parallel?

[@Chrissers2010]

Be careful using aluminum flashing without a proper coating on it. I don't believe bare aluminum is compatible with the cementitious material Hardie is made of.

[@factsNcomments-imho]

Hello, thx for info. Question, did you leave block of wood at conduit? Block of wood, another butt joint cut out on next board?

[@bonniedavis9076]

How do you lift a 12 ft board by yourself 12ft in the air

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Muscles or a second person.

[@amaimmanuel4466]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Uts9000]

it looks as though your trim is 2x4....yes ?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is

[@vilo3454]

Why uss PT wood as trim, wood will rot. Paint is not a forcefield barrier. Builders need to stop the corner cutting and use cement fiber trim or PVC trim. and then paint those materials n cut it out with the bug attracting, will eventually rot type of materials on the exterior of a home. its a cheaper way out and constantly painting over time is just a waste of time and money. So sick of seeing this type of jank.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You need to calm down. First, wood is the most common house siding in the world, is a durable material, and still costs less than concrete fiber board. Second, I am a homeowner who is doing a DIY job. While as an Architect, I still do understand materiality and construction. Third, modern paints are extremely tough and provide proper protection for years. Water intrusion is caused by poor construction techniques and design by contractors who cut corners. This causes failure and rot 99.999% of the time and not the paint. Fourth, you talk like someone in the trades and are painting yourself as an "expert" trolling on KZbin watching videos about topics you don't need to watch all while making jank comments. Go back to work.

[@jayboley9683]

​@@CountryLivingExperiencedon't worry about his comment lol. You're one of the few who uses the best practice guidelines to install. Keep up the good work buddy

[@CountryLivingExperience]

@@jayboley9683 Thanks Jay.

[@jefftinagibbs]

blew my mind you checking a 16' board with a 2' level

[@rosabal56]

Is this painted or they come like that

[@CountryLivingExperience]

That is the factory primer you are seeing

[@gemajema]

What kind of nails did you use for the siding

[@CountryLivingExperience]

2 1/4" plastic ring shank

[@outoftime788]

wen u install this siding thats it? or do u install something else over the siding?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

This is it. Just paint after

[@outoftime788]

@@CountryLivingExperience ahhh....thank u

[@littlebeebs1]

Thank you so much! My siding was done incorrectly and it’s warping , falling downward and looks horrible. It’s pulling away from the house where it meets window trim and leaving itself a good 1/2 “ off the house in those areas. I can’t afford new siding . Can I take it all off and start over ? Shouldn’t the bottom corners be nailed some way too ? The people who did the siding on my addition put screws in the bottom corners in some areas and it’s held up beautifully . It was actually done a good 5 years prior to the siding that’s falling off and warped . The addition siding doesn’t have gaps around the trim either . The main part of the house where it’s all warped and falling off has the proper gap spaces where it meets the trim and butt joints . So I can’t figure out why the main house part looks so hideous. I desperately want to fix this myself. Can’t afford help and can’t afford new siding . My husband tried to fix a couple of spots and cracked the corners off , making it much worse .

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome. It is not common practice to screw down the corners. That is not in any instruction from the manufacturer as far as I am aware. It will de difficult to take it off and start over because you will have to be extremely careful not to crack the siding boards getting them off. Maybe they used an inferior product instead of Hardie board.

[@DansGarageNC]

Great video, lots of great info. I need to replace some lower boards on a part of my house that the upper boards were replaced. Since I will blind nail them, how would I nail the top board after I put it under the ones already there?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome. That may be a challenge. You will either have to lift up the board above it to see if you can blind nail the last one. If that does not work, you will have to face nail it and cover up those nails with sealant.

[@duanecrowley9820]

Did you know they make hardy trim?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Obviously yes. It’s expensive

[@MichaelAnneken]

Greetings! 1) How did you make the cut around the block for the electric penetration? Does the board go up to the side of the block? 2) For windows, do you recommend installing the window trim first and then installing the boards up to the edge of the trim? Thanks!

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Hello. 1. I cut as needed. Every cut is going to be unique for everyone. The siding board goes up to the side, yes. 2. Yes, install the window trim first and then butt the siding up to it.

[@dav8road598]

which finish nail gauge are you using?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Not finishing nails. 2.25" plastic ring shank framing nails.

[@ritoluis4903]

What kind of siding nails did you use. See that they were not coil nails.

[@donniklas8680]

Hi, if you have OSB behind where you're putting up the Hardie plank, is it easy to get the siding tool out? What are the tricks to Sliding that little puppy out. Thank, DJ

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Very easy. I have OSB behind mine.

[@victoroneill7924]

Where did you buy your Tyvek house wrap? All the Home Depot and Lowes stores around here sell only their cheap Tyvek imitation house wrap.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

I got it at Lowes

[@Erik-sw8wm]

Was on a renovation job site, installers did not nail the bottom of the panels. When the painter painted them, it looked absolutely disgusting because you would see the paint tried to fill in some of the gaps in between and it was just nasty looked like a 100-year-old house that was painted 20 times. So nobody knows the bottom?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You aren't supposed to nail the bottom of the panels per manufacturer's instruction. The panels should lay down flat against one another at the bottom.

[@JohnFichtner]

I'm having 10 three story buildings sided right now. They're using ring shank nails to nail to the studs at the top of each piece but they're using 2 1/2" smooth TRIM nails through air nailers to nail the rest of the boards on. Some of those nails are too deep and some are sticking out 1/8". The butt ends where they hit the side trims are touching at one corner and up to 1/2" at other corners. Almost all the ends are crooked cut. I'm having a difficult time watching these people who are obviously a family as they've got young teens working and even brought their new puppy to work with them. Gggrrr

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Oh my. Sounds like their air nailer is not calibrated properly.

[@joshuahubrig2479]

Great video!! My wife and I just bought an old farmhouse with 7 acres and some outbuildings. There was a guy who owns a concrete business rented from the previous owners, and was removing his equipment when he approached me to ask if I was interested in something. Turns out it was a bad pallet of hardy board! The wife had specifically mentioned, not wanting to use vinyl siding when it came time to close up the house, so the timing on this was perfect. He had gotten it for a good deal, and so he gave us an even better deal so he didn’t have to move it…score!!! Anyway…what are you nailing these up with?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you. We used a nail gun with 2 1/4" plastic ring shank nails.

[@Umadbrah963]

Hey! I moved into a new build with my wife. I noticed our white hardie still has nails still showing from the installation. It looks like they did nailed in an inch from the top, but they also nailed the bottom to prevent it from flapping. Is that normal?Are they supposed to cover that up and touch up with paint? I’ve brought it up with the builder and they haven’t done anything about it.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

That is not a proper install. No nails in the bottom at all.

[@slave55555]

quick question- i see you left small gaps at the end cuts. The houseI am buying has silicone or caulk there. Needed? Optional? Thanks

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Needed. Glad the house has it there.

[@allthingsgrowing]

Anyone have any information on how to finish the top of the walls? Do you install the lap siding (last piece at top of wall, then install finish trim board?) Nobody ever seems to show this detail????

[@CountryLivingExperience]

At the top, just finish with with a piece of trim over the last board of rip the last piece of siding to fit flush against the top trim (if that trim is already installed).

[@ensinitas]

framing lumber for the corner? did you consider some of the other corner trims we use? Miratek, hardie etc?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

I didn't consider Hardie because of the cost of the 5/4. We didn't have much money at the time.

[@angeltravieso68]

Before this video I don't have idea how to replace a bottom portion of my harding ,but now I do thanks if is posible to show a video how replace just the bottom part I really appreciate it. Thanks a lot for you help.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome

[@brightphoebesays]

I just picked me up some lengths of this stuff for free at the local waste transfer station for FREEEEE! It's gonna be the shell of my wood shed. Finest looking wood shed on the block I bet! : D

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Free is the best price!

[@victoroneill7924]

You should use 3/4" x 3 1/2" Hardie Board instead of wood 2x4's on the corners.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It’s fine

[@BrisketMedic]

Great tips and reminders. Solid work

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Appreciate it!

[@milo18520]

What is behind the tyvex

[@CountryLivingExperience]

OSB siding

[@madukabandara6491]

How do you side an area that windows were walled off? Above the windows are existing lap board siding. I can get matching siding but not sure how to make a seamless transition as I will be siding from the bottom of the wall, over the frame where windows were but need to connect to the siding that end above the windows.. hopefully I make sense

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is really not advisable to try to marry two different siding materials together. I would advise taking off all of the old siding and installing the new.

[@durdicamac9662]

My wife insist that flashing is not needed where siding pieces connect...house wrap serves that purpose....

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is required.

[@trianglechoke7626]

When you are leaving the expansion gaps and putting flashing behind the two butted boards, I assume you are caulking in that gap just like you would at the ends meeting the trim. Correct?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

No. Those butt joints in the middle of the wall do not get caulked at all. It is the flashing that diverts the water out.

[@czrg473]

Great video ! What size nails do you recommend again?! Thanx

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thanks. 2 1/4" plastic ring shank

[@joanderson9542]

For your joint flashing, could you use flashing tape?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Metal flashing is best

[@jamesdowis2346]

I've watched several of these videos and most of them suggest putting a spacer to create an air gap between the siding and the moisture barrier. Is there a reason you didn't?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

That is an option but is not necessary. It can help dry out the cavity faster behind the siding if water gets back there. If you add those furring strips, you will need to put a bug shield down at the bottom under the row of siding closest to the ground.

[@charliebecker2216]

Can u screw this in with zinc plated construction screws ? If u put trim up first how do u get nails on the ends to hit a stud?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You could use the screws but look at the specific instructions from the brand of siding you buy. You don't hit a stud on the end. There is enough support on the wall for it to not need the stud.

[@Peanutbutter_jellysandwich]

Hey man awesome video, thank you for sharing the knowledge.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You’re welcome

[@jimmyq5400]

Great instructional video. Thank you.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome

[@brianwood8316]

Is it recommended to have osb or sheathing behind the house wrap? Or are the studs wrapped with house wrap without the sheathing?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You should always have sheathing.

[@artgirl-zx2jh]

What size boards were used here? Thanks.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

8” exposure

[@artgirl-zx2jh]

Once it is applied and there is the overlap, what does each board measure? 6 1/2”. ?Thanks!

[@c.a.wilson2138]

Can it be screwed to metal studs in a commercial building project instead of nailed?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Yes. Check Hardie's website for approved screw types.

[@jerrykopec2764]

Im thinking about removing the old 27 year old T 111 particle board siding from the entire back of my house as its falling apart. Once the Hardie board is up how do you attach utility brackets that are screwed into the existing siding. Things like a A/C chase that comes down the entire side, and the brackets that hold a condensate pipe for the A/C. Hold is the thin Hardie board going to hold up with utility things screwed into it being so thin? Thanks .

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You would need to use longer screws and go into the wall framing and/or sheathing. You should also add blockouts like I did around the electrical conduit.

[@jerrykopec2764]

Copy that. Appreciate this. @@CountryLivingExperience

[@yogibeer9319]

What does the block out do? It looks like it needs flashing behind it too. Good tip on the Malco things

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is easier to cut around and flash because it is square. Yes, you will need flashing on the top of it as well.

[@softmetals3702]

Great info thanks,do the butt cuts need to be painted prior to install?

[@CountryLivingExperience]

It is not necessary but it would be good to paint them.

[@utubewatcher360]

what kind of foundation is that??? looks like a manufactured home on blocks. I have installed miles of this probuct and built show displays for James Hardie products. You did a great job. Now one thing I would suggest is that you intall it with a rain curtain. Also tape all of your weather barrier overlaps and seams.

[@CountryLivingExperience]

Thank you. This is a common foundation in rural Texas. It is technically pier and beam but the piers are just block on grade. On the addition, there is a small poured deep pier of 24". This is a traditional stick framed house.

[@utubewatcher360]

@@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the reply. Your work is very clean

[@ChrisBorghi22]

Thank you for sharing you knowledge!! You make it very easy to understand. You got a new subscriber

[@CountryLivingExperience]

You're welcome