How and Why I Focus Bracket my Fungi Photography

[@BornIn68]

A good tip is before starting a focus bracket take a photo of your hand, then at the end of the shot take a photo of your hand. It just means when you get back to base and focus stack you can see what shots belong to each stack.

[@williampetersen2899]

You're so right Fraser! A simple but important tip that can save a lot of frustration in post-processing.

[@ravenfallsphotography6254]

I thought I was the only one who did that! Thumbs up when starting, thumbs down at the end.

[@JacobG-M]

Similar, but I take a shot with the lens cap on, so there are two black frames as brackets.

[@billygarrett3911]

On the Nikon d850 and z9 you can set the camera to start a new folder each time you do a stacked series. Which means that you do not have to put your hand in front of each series.

[@JohnBall-z7j]

I change the filename prefix every time I do a stack making it AAA instead of the default DSC. You have to remember to change it back of course which I am currently doing 25% of time.

[@andybusard6694]

Yoshida it twice-- "stacketing" - brilliant! The new name for the complete process. Stacking + bracketing. I love it!

[@ravenfallsphotography6254]

Watch that get stuck in my mind the next time I need to talk about it. Or else I'll try to hard to avoid it, and wind up saying "focus bracking" instead.

[@Powerstroke98]

@@ravenfallsphotography6254 I've always used the bracketing terminology, and not stacking, as Courtney states, stacking is what is done when editing.

[@Revup1]

I recently adopted a new technique for landscape images. I dial in 1 sec of exposure delay, switch on the interval timer with 5 second intervals, then add 3 image exposure bracketing and 6 image focus stacking, depending on the light I might also bracket the ISO and white balance. I call my new technique 'Timeterval Deposed Isobalanced Bocus Stackering'. The images are crap, but at least I get to use all the in camera functions I paid for! Love the technique videos BTW.

[@Robert-R]

Brilliant!

[@2wheelsturning54]

@@Robert-R

[@2wheelsturning54]

😂😂😂

[@shamanbeartwo3819]

I love this and need to see if I can add some function to my D850 for this process. I recently rode my bike 2 hours with gear just to take one shot and it would have been nice to over shoot it rather than ride back again because I'm less than thrilled about the foreground:)

[@tomhaymes2045]

Very interesting. Would love to see your post-processing work with those images.

[@Powerstroke98]

I'm sure many of us use different software applications for the post processing, albeit it would still be beneficial to watch indeed.

[@MarieAnneNantel]

Same here, basic technics in photoshop or lightroom would be nice.

[@Rayzer2368]

Yes, love the more technical aspect, or how-to, videos and I tend to lean more towards this type of content. This was a great video, thank you!

[@GerardMackle]

Thank you so much for the explanation. You have a lovely, simple, and effective way of putting things that make it easy to understand. So yes, please, to other talks on lessons you want to share. I'm a definite starter for watching them. Regards, Gerard

[@polyvg]

One of the most watchable "how to" videos I have seen. Excellent and very human narration, explanations, and the reality of bloomin' rain, cold, kicking leaves and all the rest of fungi photography. Thank you. From the early days of digital photography - the first (or maybe second?) camera we used was a Canon S10 back in 1999. 2.11 megapixels.Came with an 8 MB CF card! Storage capacity and battery life were severe limits in absolute number of photos we could take. And bracketing was unthinkable. Strictly for fun. A lot of it was a way of more deeply enjoying the woodland in the area. And many of the photos were just as a personal record and to try to identify the fungi. Got several thousand viewable photos - and many more thousand so bad they were immediately deleted.

[@senshi_ichigo]

I loved the Focus part in a video 📸 mode 😄 which is everything about 😅 is the Focus+ accuracy + precision 😊

[@DominikMarczuk]

I haven't done macro since August. Today was the first time in months that I took my macro lens with me and went to a nearby forest. Most of my shots used focus bracketing. And then you release a video on what I did all morning. Impeccable timing!

[@alanthornton3530]

Thank you Courtney for a thoroughly interesting & fun video. I especially loved the new words, genius :)

[@HurleyDeanSandpointIdaho]

I can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos. Very informative. Hi from Sandpoint, Idaho USA

[@Powerstroke98]

Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada...here. I'm sure Courtney has fans all over the world by now!

[@dangilmore9724]

I use a focus rail with my Laowa 2x-5x Ultrs Macro because I have to (there is no focus ability on the lens and thus, one has to move the lens to focus). That said, focus stacking with a manual lens on a Canon 5D MK IV is a real task because the camera isn't recording any distance data (which means the native focus stacking in the Canon software is useless in this instance (that is, without some serious meta data hacking pr using third party software). Also, as you move the camera on the rail. You can get some interesting perspective changes as the rail is advanced.

[@peterdclark]

Bocus Fracketing for the win! 😜

[@jonkers2007]

Nice balance of technical and non-technical. I use a focus rail at home with the same macro lens you use, but in the field I use in-camera bracketing on a zoom lens with a close up filter attached. As you say, there are so many variables in the field that I want to expose the shots quickly. Btw, the rail I use is a Nisi, great quality and sensibly priced.

[@terryosborn]

Great tutorial Courtney, thank you so much😊

[@jaybradley9083]

Watching your videos is making me want to try macro photography. I loved the bloopers at the endow this video. I usually kick my tripod instead of the composition.

[@LarryCarlin]

Love BOTH of technical dedication plus the artful approach. Superb video. Inspiring.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

My Olympus and Lumix cameras bracket and stacket, if you use the wrong word I will not know what you mean. If you move the camera on a rail, you change perspective like stepping back and forth. Sometimes it will matter, sometimes it will not. If you adjust focus with the lens, you may experience focus breathing - the image changes size. If it occurs, I don't know how well Ps copes, but Helicon Focus and Zerene Stacker re purpose-built stacking software. I mostly bracket hand-held, with in-camera bracketting. I never stack in-camera as I get JPEGS. There are hardy souls who go shooting peacock spiders (they're tiny and cute) with a Canon camera and an MP-E 65 macro lens. The lens is manual, and does not have a focus ring. It does have a zoom ring, to change its magnification to up to 5x. So, you're shooting at 3x. F16 for lack of depth of focus. It's gloomy, and bumping ISO doesn't do enough, and the subject is either wind blown or dancing, and your shutter speeds are Too Slow. So you need flash. Some cameras slow down then they have flash attached, so maybe a stupid dumb flash the camera doesn't feel. How to bracket focus? No focus ring. Not enough time to set up a rail. So they carefully rock back and forth, not deviating to the sides. It takes practice. At least some of them have gone and bought an Olympus camera. They shoot fast, they can allow time for the flash to recharge, Olympus has been doing bracketting for years and several generations of camera. And there's this nice new 90mm macro lens that does up to 4-5x, with AF.

[@CarringtonImagery]

I use a Manfrotto focussing plate for macro. It has incremental adjustment for forward and reverse. It makes stacking easy as you don’t need to touch the lens.

[@barcodellaluna]

I love your work and in love with you!

[@billygarrett3911]

I have at times when doing macro work like this I carry different color small portable backgrounds to take out some of that clutter.

[@slyne1000]

You are hilarious! I love your outtakes! Seriously you have some great shots. I'm now going to look into focus bracketing for my next field trip. Thank You! Which do you prefer, in camera focus shift shotting or manual shift shooting?

[@digital-nature-uk]

Thank you. A great into video for this learner.

[@welshsteve2009]

‘Stacketing’ @6:29 made me chuckle. This should be a real term 🤣

[@Stop-All-War]

It is if you use it daily

[@TheRifleBrigade]

It was nice to say hello to you at the Photography Show on the Vanguard stand, I find your videos very calming and professional as you sell the art of photography beautifully.

[@Motorider98]

Понятно и доходчиво всё рассказала. И сама девушка с красивой улыбкой 😁

[@TheRealAutodidact]

Focus Step with according to a video from Nikon Europe I remembered seeing recently; • Macro/product photography = 1-2. • Landscape photography = 4-5. Ref. kzbin.info/www/bejne/enSUf2Btf6iXe5Isi=J_Gb28ZOglYxqc-N&t=76

[@anthonyphotoman]

Thank you, Courtney. A great video

[@aquaticcolledgefishing]

Very insightful and great image.

[@sakthivel7726]

TQ FOR YOUR VIDEO

[@RayESmith-hk4dp]

I've only just seen your video although I see it was from 5 months ago. Having read other folk's comments, there is little I can add but I really enjoy your presentation and find your approach to be inspiring. Most of my photography, these days, is in the garden but it's surprising how many opportunities can be found for macro work, even here, so I shall certainly be putting your ideas Into practice, shortly. Thank you.

[@generalbeaker7515]

Thanks. Love the video

[@PavanVarma369]

Can you make a video what to wear while going into woods?

[@alanhall5648]

Another excellent video.

[@JonAngle]

Love the bloopers 😂

[@markustappeser841]

Hello Courtney, first I'd like to say it's always a joy to see you films. Me personally started with macro 1,5 years ago, by buying an macro lens. When I saw how small the depth of field is, i decided to buy focusing rack (Novoflex Castel-Q, not cheap but very well built) and I must say I have never regret it. It makes the stacking so much easier for static objects like yours. Here my work flow: 1) i decide which aperture I wonna use, depends how blurry i want to get the background. 2) according to the aperture and the distance I check, with a app, the depth of field so I know the length of steps i use at the rail. I use steps between 1/3 and 1/2 of the depth of field. 3) I set the settings in manual mode 4) with the focus peaking mode I can check the start and end point I'd like to have in focus. I take the fotographs and the rest are the work for the software. 😉

[@olivercolman3276]

The tism is strong with this one

[@EugenesVids]

Another great video, thanks! I'm wondering why you don't use the focus stepping feature in the Nikon D850 for focus stacking? Is it because it may not work if auto focus is not available on a Laowa lens? Thanks.

[@brianm.9062]

dam fine shots. like your style and the methods used, I shall give it a whirl, I sometimes depending on the depth take the lens further back to give a slight deeper depth, and I am also known for clicking into the tripod legs.

[@xaosgeist]

You are great. Thank you.

[@GK49245]

Superbly produced video. Your video content and story line are understandable, information rich, and engaging. Is your post-field workflow image stacking done in Photoshop? Thanks for sharing.

[@patrickmackay741]

Nice ! If you buy a "smallrig" cage, you can leave your camera facing the right way (upright); when you put it upside down, everything gets complicated :)

[@CyclingOffToSomewhereIDK]

I love the outtakes🤣 Thanks for sharing your technique. Love your photos and videos, always very helpful. I just got my first dedicated macro lens, and boy HOWDY (yes, i'm American😁) that plane is really razor thin. It's going to take some getting used to but I am looking forward to the learning process. You are truly an inspiration, thanks (or is it "Cheers?)

[@MrDvaz]

I think bracketing involves changing iso...aperture and maybe speed....so for taking multiple macro shots at the same iso..aperture and speed the correct term would be stacking ! The same for processing the images! My opinion!

[@davidcarter5038]

The way focus bracketing should work is this: 1. Focus on the closest point to be in focus and half-press the shutter. The firmware records the distance 2 Focus on the far point to be in focus and half press the shutter. The firmware records this distance 3 Set your shutter speed and f-stop as required and press the shutter. The firmware knows everything it needs to know to the number of shots needed and can do the rest. Does any camera do this?

[@pierrelaguide]

Fuji medium format. I don't recall the video or channel but it looked simple to do.

[@eeviewonders]

Nikon doesn't do this, only fuji as far as I know.

[@davidcarter5038]

@@pierrelaguide I'll see what turns up. I wonder if Fuji have patents that stop others doing it?

[@Robert-R]

You can use a CamRanger to do this, which will work with most cameras. And the advantage of it is that you can control it from your smart phone.

[@jpdj2715]

Nikon call it "focus shift shooting" when referencing "at shoot time" and, indeed, "stacking" references what happens in post. As you get the individual images, in case you defined small focus increments, you can determine Depth of Field in post by using more or less frames from the focus shift shooting into the stack - and determine that on either end. Someone yes-butted me in another comments the other day that Depth of Field (DoF) is ambiguous. This is true, in general, but not if you actually involve the fourth value/parameter in the DoF formula. As people abstract the "Circle of Confusion" [1] (CoC) away, DoF becomes ambiguous indeed. So we need to go to the core of DoF by breaking the CoC down and being aware of it. The beauty of "focus shift shooting" is that we can play with CoC and DoF in post. My pet peeve with focus shift shooting is that I cannot use it with a subject with some motion in it - it only works when no time parallax issues are visible between the frames in the stack. In which cases I might want a tilt/shift lens that allows me to rotate the focused-on plane and hence alter the 3D DoF space relative to the 2D frame. [1] CoC combines the impact of the following variables into one parameter in the DoF formula: (a) film/sensor resolution - more makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper (b) lens resolution - more makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper (c) processing - better makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper (d) display resolution - more makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper (e) display size - larger makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper (f) viewer-display distance - shorter makes CoC smaller and DoF deeper

[@edwardharris6779]

I thought the CoC was pretty well fixed with the size of the sensor/image. For example, a full frame camera would have a value of approximately 0.029 mm. How would you go about changing its value and, if you do change it, how do you know the new value?

[@jpdj2715]

@@edwardharris6779 - in my photography school mid 1970s (a decade later I went back to academia and a.o. studied CS with software engineering of AI) - photography school came in flavours, mine was a curriculum for professional photographers that is a vocational BSc today - "CoC" was a lecture in itself. It bundles several effects into one parameter and your "camera format rule of thumb number" is a small part of that. Yes, we concluded the lecture with such numbers, but only after we had understood the background of it. It was actually not the format that determined the number, but the prejudice about the associated resolution of the format. With 135 (35mm movie film in Leica/stills confection), at the time we would have an average of 100 LinePairs per millimetre (LP/mm) colour film and lens resolution (assuming professional qualities). That would be about 80 LP/mm for medium format (defined as too large for 127 film, i.e. the smallest frame size larger than 36mm), or 60 for large format. In a way, DoF and CoC are a problem and anything you read on your camera, from fluencers, or in apps, may be a lie. Like the focal length may be, or the number in f/number. This all plays in DoF and CoC. I will explain more below, but having said that, in a scientific/academic debate, assuming "ceteris paribus" we can use these parameters very well. In my OP, I list the +/- effects of CoC under a..f. You can see that it is hard to make hard statements about DoF, considering all this. Shooting 8"*10" we would have an 8x magnifying loupe to inspect in focus versus out of focus. But also knew that an 8"*10" contact print (1:1) would seem to have much more DoF than we saw at 8* magnification on the matte glass. So both CoC and DoF are "it depends" parameters. In that sense, the person I referenced as commenting to me elsewhere that DoF is ambiguous, is right. But when we need critical DoF at the format of an image for a client, we need to know all these details and take them into account. I have to admit it rarely happens that an art director makes a size and viewing distance related requirement for DoF. Then it becomes the photographer's artistic opinion. In classical lens designs (where all elements move together in a fixed arrangement when you focus, the focal length f only is true at infinity focus. My 105/2.8 macro lens, at its closest distance for 1:1 reproduction ratio, has an "effective focal length" of about 160mm and that is the number the DoF formula would require. As the aperture "number" derives from the diameter of the entry pupil expressed as fraction of focal length, that 105mm/2.8 (pupil diameter at infinity: 105mm/2.8 = 37.5mm) at 1:1 becomes 160mm/37.5mm = 4.27. And so the "effective f/number" in the example here would be f/4.3, while the lens is set to 2.8. This "effective" effect we had to work into our exposure settings. If you use a handheld lightmeter, you needed to apply the "bellows extension factor" to your meter's reading. Of course you already had made test shots to calibrate your lens's transmission losses and its shutter's deviations. In medium and large format. When LF manufacturer Sinar released their SinarSix meter that could measure through the lens in large format this took the bellows extension factor out of the calculations by heart. Only shutter and film deviations played a role. Today, measuring through the lens all the time, we have forgotten about all this. Some fluencers, we see in YT videos, think they can transfer one camera/lens combination's measurement to another brand combination and then make statements like "this one exposes correctly and the other one overexposes" - and that's a load of crap. The rule of thumb "format" related CoC is worthless in critical DoF requirement cases. Actually, focus shift shooting will allow you to generate different size images in post where each size has a DoF that compares to the other sizes (ceteris paribus). You would use different stacks depending on the print/display size. My problem with focus shift shooting is "time parallax". So if/when that is no issue, then it may be the way to go. As our digital cameras are high power super computers, all these details could be displayed somewhere. My 105/2.8 has its own LCD where it can display the "effective" number in f/number and where it also displays DoF based on assumptions for c..f - while a and b are known. It will display another DoF when I put the lens on a 24MP camera with OLPF than on my 45MP without OLPF. Another aside: the processing power of 1990s famous supercomputer "Cray One" - its own building, its own connection to the electrical grid, an organisation around it to operationally pamper it - some 5 years ago could be bought in two NVIDIA GTX 1080ti graphics adapter cards for your workstation PC - these two cards may force you into a PSU between 500W and 1000W. The processing power in my recent camera with a single chip dual processor probably already outperforms that, running at 5V and a bit of mAh. So, DoF is completely ambiguous as long as we don't know the effect of, make no assumptions about, CoC components a..f. But in a "ceteris paribus" discussion we can easily discuss DoF if we include CoC properly. It's all relative. When physicists (JWST) record images from stars at a distance of 14 billion light-years, this actually means these images are from 14 billion years ago and we actually don't know that these stars are still there, nor where they are now. Without qualifying such issues, assuming we discuss between insiders, a scientific treaty can become meaningless to outsiders. And before you know, fluencers turn it into pseudoscience.

[@cliveturner6702]

Excellent video Courtney. Over the winter months I've acquired a Nikon Z6ii + Sigma 105 macro lens + FTZ adapter, I'm now looking forward to getting out and using the focus shift shooting mode. Keep up the good work 👍

[@stepsoflife]

Awesome explanation! Do you think you can show pictures you've taken without focus stacking? I want to get a macro lens but I don't think I will have time and tripod to do focus stacking.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

With practice, you can do it without a tripod. And you can make a lot of good photos with a macro lens that do not involve stacking. I do it mostly hand-held. It helps if your camera has IBIS, mine do. Some do it with a manual lens, hand-held, no tripod, no IBIS. They do use flash.

[@mhc2b]

You could always combine the two terms "stacking & bracketing" to "focus stacketing." :)

[@gordroberts53]

Yes please to more like this. I also use a D850, always good to see how a pro is using the camera I love

[@jurgenschurr6737]

Firstly, some lenses, for example, the Carl Zeiss macro lenses, have an engraving which indicates the range of distances where the image is sharp at the aperture chosen. This allows to reliably estimate how much the distance ring has to be turned from one shot of a sequence to the next shot. (Also the Laowa macro lens has such a ring but unfortunately it is complete nonsense and, thus, fully useless.) And secondly, fungi are usually not affected by wind, only bugs crawling around may cause some trouble as you have nicely demonstrated. Often I see this surprise when I am back at home. Usually it is best to shot a few sequences and select the best one at home. If your subject is a flower with a thin and flexible stem and there is some even slight wind, a sequence with the timer function and the mirror pre-raising function would last much longer than any calm period without wind. In the case that there is a lot of light and the shutter speed is very fast, it sometimes works to set the camera to the continuous-shooting mode, switch off the timer and the mirror pre-raising function, wait for a calm moment, then press the release button and continuously turn the distance ring during the continuous shooting. I know, this is not optimum, but sometimes it is the only chance. Do you have any better idea?

[@marclpe1845]

Thanks very much for your videos ;-) With the d850, when you make focus bracketing, you can save it in raw or tiff ? Regards

[@billkipper3264]

Photus stacketing! Sounds like a brilliant new technique. Can't wait to give it a try.

[@denisesavage2382]

I think you just gave us a great photographic technical word in fotus . . . .

[@dalearnold3788]

I just recently subscribed to your channel. I truly enjoy watching the processes that you demonstrate and the fact that you also inject your personality into every video. I have been reading up on the method and now that I see it in practice, I feel more confident about doing it. Great job and keep on creating content!

[@sophietucker1255]

Is there a particular piece of software to do the stacking on the computer or is it something that can be done with Lightroom or PhotoShop? Great video by the way. I do love your content

[@jonkers2007]

If you only have a few frames, Photoshop can do the job (plenty of YT videos), but for more numerous shots in a stack Zerene Stacker or Helicon Focus do a great job. Again, lots of YT videos available and both give a free trial so you can see what woreks best for you.

[@OracleTestlab]

My Nikon f mount Macro 105mm doesn't seem to auto focus that good. But manually taking 30+ photos at proper distance is really difficult, sometimes some spots are missed then that area comes soft, that ruins the entire effort photo. How do you maintain focus stacking with manual focus lens.

[@JoshxIZ]

For me a flash is a must in macro photography.

[@polyvg]

In my personal experience, flash and fungi do not go well together. The white parts that so many fungi have over-expose (white out) so incredibly easily. Where they are white, they can be extremely reflective. Even if you manage to avoid that, you are so often wanting at least some surroundings included which will likely end up very under-exposed. And shadows can be ever so harsh. If you use multiple flashes, or if you are wanting only a very tight area, you can achieve OK results. Not saying it is impossible to get good flash photos. But with my limited equipment, it was difficult.

[@keithguppy]

Beautiful images, I wish I had mushrooms here, we only get the bracket type at the moment.

[@PineNewYorkWorld2024]

Hi. What camera do you use when filming you’re D850?

[@shamanbeartwo3819]

Awesome short vid about this but it would be even better with a follow up of how/which images get blended to a final image. My favorite tool in my bag for outdoor photography with my D850? My iPad! I take advantage of Nikon's Snap Bridge to get a nice big view of what I just shot before moving on or to even take the shot. I'm 66 and the less time I spend on my knees in the forest, the better:) Also, with a lot of landscape shots that I take there is considerable glare on my live window and I can't see much so it really helps having a second, large window to look at. Its also handy for making any notes about the location/shot. I have also used my Android phone to do the same thing but now we're back to a small viewing window so I prefer the iPad.

[@jeffslade1892]

A focus rail? Yeah, kinda old school for film SLR with al-manual focus where you needed to get as close to the subject as possible, so the rail allows you to slide in to that minimum focus distance. That focus distance becomes critical and never worked well if the subject was wafting about in a breeze. With film obviously you cannot focus stack images, not without a lot of hard work in a wet darkroom anyway. Stacking digital focus-bracketed (sorry) images is a lot easier. And of course the digital AF focus-bracket is easier too. You get most excellent results the way you do it but it beggars the question whether you have ever used a camera that can do the focus-bracketing and focus-stacking and packing in-camera?

[@toddwhitmire9057]

Great job Courtney! Your pics are great. Your personality is great while you explain how you shoot pics.

[@taylorhickman84]

I wonder if a macro rail would change the results, would the magnification change the same amount as it does when you adjust the focus ring on the lens?

[@thomashenden71]

I would recommend not running or straining yourself too much just before taking photos that are demanding to focus! - ???? - Because then you don’t get so much trouble with 'focus breathing'! 🥁📀♪ 😅

[@hlpvinod]

Loved your video. Do make more videos. (Pls make one about your equipment like tripod and diffusers) Really loved the bloopers part.😂

[@hjones451]

Never tried focus bracketing, Courtney - need to investigate some software, any tips for a beginner? Love a bit of macro - Sony a7iii & Sony 90mm f2.8 Macro lens user.

[@klackon1]

Try and borrow an OM Systems OM1 mark II + an OM Systems 90mm f3.5 macro lens. It has in camera focus stacking up to 15 frames and focus differential of 1 - 10. It also has focus bracketing up to 999 frames, but images from this mode obviously have to be processed externally. The in camera focus stacking is very fast and produces a final jpg file. Because the in body stabilisation syncs with the lens IS, it provides 8.5 stops of stabilisation, which can make a tripod redundant in some situations.

[@VTPyzon]

I love your videos because they show that a lowly DSLR like the D850 is still relevant today 😉and you don't need a mirrorless camera for everything! Is there a reason you don't use the D850's focus peaking when manually focusing? I like to shoot macro fungi on my D850

[@normski4ash]

Do you have any problems with focus breathing when stacking photo's ? I find with my Sony macro lens, as I shift focus, the subject gets larger or smaller as I move the focus ring to focus on a different area. This is far more prevalent with a slider rail, for obvious reasons, as you get closer to the object it will get larger on the sensor. Yes focus stacking software is quiet good at getting around this, maybe I'll look for a lens with no focus breathing... How's the Laowa 100mm ? Loving your videos, Thnx

[@fly-pedro]

Very nice video, well explained! My question is, how to proceed with this photos to get them all together into one image. Do I need a special software?

[@peteanddrake4242]

This doesn't make sense to me. I have tried focus stacking, and there is a MUCH easier way. Just shoot at a higher F stop 5.6,8 or 11 for all the depth of field you need. If you are worried about the background not being blurry--it takes seconds to blur it to satisfaction in post. Photoshop's new smart subject selection tools are insanely good. If you are going to be using PS anyway to stack 25 images (again--pretty silly if you ask me), then it should be no big deal to take 1 shot and tweak the blur instead.

[@Amalkaru]

Lovely video Courtney. I’ve tried to use focus bracketing with limited success. Your video has now given me some great parameter to get going again, and we use the same equipment, so that’s a bonus. A charming and clear explanation - thank you. I’d like to see a video on focus bracketing on landscapes. Would you do this with a wide angle lens?

[@mostlymessingabout]

Surely bracketing is when the camera takes a few shots to avoid AF micro adjustments issues?

[@jonmiller9408]

this was excellent, the amount of technical detail was spot on, definitely continue to share more. FYI, I use a mini clapper to divide the beginning and ending of the series that way I know which group belongs together. Also I carry the small reflectors and cards in my camera bag to help punch light if needed. Love the work.

[@ragamuffinthepollywog]

Not to be confused with exposure bracketing. Not so sure about the 850 but I know recent editions to focus bracketing cameras, each set of photos can be put into their individual folders which is done automatically in the bracketing menu.

[@scotskinner4350]

I've got a focusing rail, I don't use it. It's heavy and I've got enough crap I carry out in the field. I was able to successfully focus stack once in software. But I seem to have lost that magic formula somewhere.

[@Simon-SBL]

You probably know this by now as I've seen you using a focus rail, I think one advantage of a focus rail is maintaining a consistent magnification, as some lenses change magnification as the focus changes and may mess up the stack!? With a rail, you can be at 1:1, 2:1 etc, and maintain that magnification throughout the stack.

[@ScamsandShams]

does the d750 have build in shift focus.. if not what d range does other than the d850 please

[@kevinlane7555]

I feel like photography is morphing from capturing images to creating images....sign of the times I guess

Estoy enamorado. Mal plan por la descomposición final.

[@Peacheslaroo]

Thank you for this tutorial and forgetting to the point! Once you have a series of photos, how do you combine them? It would be so helpful if you could do a post processing video.

[@CrowPal]

Focus rail? The manual ones make "stacketing" slow, and the motorised ones don't like rain or dirt. You're getting great results with what you're doing now, so why change?

[@hanswi336]

Why do always record audio at such a low level - your average is -12 dB ? 0 to -3 dB would be "normal"...

[@witcheater]

🌺😊🌺 Nice. Thank you... :)

[@naturallyadriftphotoadvent123]

What program do you use to "stack " or combine all of those images together? Second do you know of any free programs that can do this that you would recommend?

[@paulrobertson7580]

A very informative video, thanks, do you edit in Lightroom or photoshop?

[@psd58]

Fun and informative video, just curious to know what software do you use to stack your images?

[@CanalDelMagere]

wow , really nice mushrooms,and you are super cute btw XDD

[@c.douglaslyon9949]

I found this episode very helpful, however I’m not clear how they are processed. I’d like to see an episode on processing the shots.

[@thirdnostril9505]

You only need a rail for the smallest of subjects. At tiny scales you want to move the camera to stack focus; pulling focus on the lens for each shot will create a series of images with varying ratios of magnification.

[@frederickvillanueva5431]

It would be amazing if you accidentally found a new species of fungi.

[@thomasdean2472]

Great information as always. And, feel free to use my Forest anytime you wish.

[@ricardofernandes997]

How cute and fluffy she is hahahaha

[@ados1980cz]

It is not Fungi but Fuji omg🤦 You're welcome.

[@williamborges3914]

'Looks like it's time to swap the Wellies for a pair of chest-high waders. 😀

[@Martingj56]

I have the same Laowa lens and I find it harde to decide where to focus. How do you decide where the next focus point will be? And how do you know you haven ‘t missed a part?

[@JamesMcFatter-v7u]

Now please show us how you process a photo stack on your computer.

[@jchawkjr2]

Not sure if I prefer the dancing or the bloopers. 😂

[@Martingj56]

I’d like to see bloopers of the dancing 😉

[@mariosacramento7953]

❤