CPM S110V Spyderco Manix 2 LW Review After 1 Year

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After more than 1 year and many, many videos, which you can find on my patreon...this are my opinions on this knife. The model that is...the steel..you can see that in the other videos.

[@amitzdullnicker2k]

Thank you very much, those long term reviews are incredibly valuable compared to these "showing off an unused knife on a table" videos! ❤👍🏻

[@SpartanJohns]

I am glad you like it. I am just sharing my experiences to help people out in making the right decision for them

[@K.M925]

Very nice and useful review .

[@SpartanJohns]

Thank you! I am glad you liked it

[@davidhorvathdr]

Thank you, great explanation!

[@SpartanJohns]

Glad you liked the video. I hope it was helpful!

[@jorg8577]

Vielen Dank für die Vorstellung. Ich habe die G10 Variante und finde mit 15 Grad ist es perfekt für die meisten Dinge. Ich steige nun vom Sharpmaker auf Freihandschärfen um. Hast du eine Empfehlung wie ich nach dem Schärfen messen kann welchen Winkel ich angebracht habe?

[@SpartanJohns]

Du kannst natuerlich messen und calculieren. Oder eine "Angle app" auf den Haendy runterladen, ein bischen klebeband auf der seite tun und so messen. Oder ein Goniometer. Felix Imler hat ein gutes video zum DIY Goniometer

[@Warsmith_Honsou]

I have various steels from Spyderco and am also looking to purchase Spyderco knives with other good steels. But I somehow want to understand how to correctly place steels such as Cruwear, k390, s110v, m4, zdp189, s90v, cpm 15v, rex45, Maxamet into categories. I like the way you think, it is logically sound and confirmed by your practice. If it is not difficult, could you arrange the steels I have indicated according to the level of preference specifically in terms of better retention of the cutting edge, of course, if the difference is not significant, you can place the steels in the same category. If you do not, in your opinion, have sufficient experience with any steel, you do not have to indicate it. Thank you very much.

[@SpartanJohns]

difficult to arrange them. Especially since some are non stainless. Maxamet is fantastic for edge retention when cutting cardboard but a salty environment will dull it. Tbh i think K390 is a superb steel for edge retention and it is really easy to sharpen. Price is also decent. S110V is a superb steel but has its kinks. I like it. just got a couple of knives because it does not stain easily and has great edge retention... If you want something which sharpens easily and can be maintained to a very sharp edge for a long time with ease...CRUWEAR... In the end, you should chose stainless or non stainless and focus on geometry more. That would be my advice

[@Warsmith_Honsou]

@@SpartanJohns Somehow it slipped my mind that rust can also damage the cutting edge. On the other hand, the climate in my region is quite dry and I usually always try to take care of my knives. In any case, thanks for the answer.☺️

[@SpartanJohns]

If so far you have not tried k390 i suggest you give it a go

[@xkarlsonx]

Really like your thorough reviews. I really disliked the Manix 2 for a long time until i stumbled across the 15v version. Still not a fan of the weight and handle i went for applied weapons technology scales. Total gamechanger and excellent weight due to the liner delete. You should give those a try, unfortunately not compatible with the lightweight.

[@SpartanJohns]

I was looking at the 15V model too. but they were gone very quickly. I am considering getting a G10 version someday. Not sure if I want to "upgrade" scales. I did that on my bugout and have not used it so much since then so I swapped them back. The knife felt different and it did look better but for some reason(i have no idea why) i tend to use "upgraded" knives less

[@xkarlsonx]

@@SpartanJohns With those scales the ergos are a lot better and the weight drops below 100g. Not sure if I prefer the 15v over the Seki K390. As you said, the Manix is quite thick behind the edge.

[@SpartanJohns]

I have tested K390 a lot. Not sure if I like it because I tested it so much or I tested it so much because I like it a lot... 15V is different...yes. I dropped the edge angle to a bit under 15dps on my PM2 and i have yet to see any issues during normal use. To be honest, i like sharpening K390 much more...it is like this steel wants to be sharpened. I sharpened it many times...whether I paid a lot of attention or not really the result was always at least good. Sometime excellent but never below good. But...15V does not take a patina as quickly. It is more stain resistant from what I have observed so far. And the factory edge on the 15V was the first factory edge that impressed me. with the BBB HT...honestly...i am glad I got to test/play around with it...

[@yoannmolard-auclair592]

Hello, thanks for these useful comparisons beatween different models, it helps a lot, especially about thickness behind the edge and slicing performances. By the way i would be glad to heart your thoughts about leafjumper in k390 because it seems to agregate different shapes of different Spyderco models. Are you interest in ? Thanks a lot !

[@SpartanJohns]

I am interested in all Spyderco models! Just got another knife in K390 and debated a lot whether to get the Leafjumper or the Endela. I went for the Endela this time. In hindsight maybe the Leafjumper might have been more interesting. however there was one nice surprise with the Endela. Even if the edge was left with a burr on, and sharpened at slightly different edge angles the angle was about 15-16 dps...and at 0.3-0.4 mm...that is good

[@yoannmolard-auclair592]

@@SpartanJohns Thanks, i own an Endela in K390 an i take it everytime versus my PM2. The blade shape really seems to be superior for EDC tasks, Stronger and less dangerous tip helps TOO. The only downside is that you canot cut that hard because of the slim handle without choil. Ideally i would have a Stretch 2 handle combined with Endela or Leafjumper blade.

[@SpartanJohns]

@@yoannmolard-auclair592 to be honest i also thought the tip of the pm2 or stretch 2 to be a bit too thin. But testing it, And not really forcing it, i found no issues. The manix tip is much sturdier by comparison but with abuse you can see i broke it. For a really sturdy tip: try the cold steel ultimate hunter.

[@LouietheKnifeAddict]

You can give your Manix a hollow grind. The hollow grind makes the Manix a slicing machine. There are a couple really good machinist in the community. If you are interested I can get you there info. Satu Dave and BGM are very popular in the knife community.

[@SpartanJohns]

Yes, a hollow grind would definitely improve the performance. In the past I had some knives reground. The last knives I reground myself by hand. It does take a lot and some steels are difficult. I prefer a slightly convex grind. Some I convex all the way. Easier to keep at a low edge angle and by comparison the convex grinds/cutting edges will be the most resilient even at low edge angles. A nice hollow grind....few people do them well...but when it is done well, it is really worth the experience.

[@LouietheKnifeAddict]

You need to try the new Magnacut Manix LT weight. Also grab that maxamet Manix

[@SpartanJohns]

I have the Native 5 Salt with Magnacut and a PM2 in Maxamet. 6-7 months ago I sold off about 90% of my cutting tools. By my calculations I might be able to get back into it in about 2-3 months. I am itching to try out spy27(see how it does compared to S30V) and H2 to see how little(or unlikely how much) it differs from H1. The Manix LW is a great model to build all the nice steels in. Much better than the Native, imo.

[@LouietheKnifeAddict]

What do you like more about the Caribbean over the Paramilitary 2. My impression is they are basically the same knife.

[@SpartanJohns]

So many differences... Here are a few: While they both have almost the same overall length the Caribbean has the wider handle and a longer cutting edge than the Para2(including the finger choil). For the purpose it was build, for my hand, the Caribbean has a great texture. Aggressive enough to not slip and not so aggressive that it would hurt your skin if you sent a lot of time in and around water. The handle shape really locks your hand in so well that I can't find another one to compare it with(for power cuts in the hammer grip position). I have a few videos on the Caribbean. The PM2 is great but if I had to choose...I would go for the Caribbean.

[@rustyknifelover4463]

I went with CPM M4 and Applied Weapons Technology Scales on my Manix 2 with titanium ball Cage and Ceramic ball absolutely love it.

[@SpartanJohns]

M4 is a nice steel. I have it in my GB2. I was also looking into the titanium cages but only if this one breaks or I get a G10 model

[@efiksas2]

I'd wish Spyderco would sharpen the edge all the way to the end so you would not need these sharpening choils. To me they look (and function) a bit wrong on Spydercos. Just not as easy to do at home than simply cutting the blunt part out...

[@SpartanJohns]

You can sharpen it all the way yourself. I have done this on some models. It might take a bit more effort and patience but it is not such a big deal. For me, when I am testing, sharpening must go quickly, this is why i add the sharpening choil so i don't get a "smile"(as people call it) When I am sharpening for pleasure I can spend the time and won't put a sharpening choil in. They never really bothered me tbh.

[@efiksas2]

@@SpartanJohns Thanks for the reply! I just appreciate the ability to go all the way without a fear of snagging and glide the material on the ricasso when cutting cardboard for example. That seems to me to be one of the essential features of the design. But it apparently to do this properly is too hard even for the factory as they have given up on the idea completely. A bit of a shame that for otherwise excellent design. You have a great channel here! The perspective of you reviews and the sheer depth of the analysis is something that is not common on youtube and it matches very well to what is interesting to me personally. Love it!