CR-10 Print Bed Options | CR-10 3D Printer

[@FlakMagnet]

Kudos to you for the "short version" summary at the beginning of the vid!

[@UncleJessy]

Haha glad it still holds up.

[@Bajicoy]

Awesome to hear about all the print bed options! It’s really rare to find comprehensive reviews of anything 3D printing related

[@dragonballshorts7123]

who else left after the summary cause that was great it didn't include what I was looking for so I'm grateful for him for giving a short summary thanks g.

[@stonecold7306]

Jessy your awesome. You tell the truth not sales gimmicks. Keep up the great work fan boy forever.

[@UncleJessy]

Stone Cold wait, are you telling me I could be using sales gimmicks! Toss me a beer (glass shatters) dun dun dun dun dun dun

[@jackharris9740]

This video is what prompted me to try blue painter's tape when everything else failed. My CR-10 is now working great with only minor, occasional issues. Thanks for the tip!

[@SlapStuffTogether]

I took your advice and picked up the TH3D print bed mat. Boy did it make a difference. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@motrediz]

Thank you sir! This has been very useful. I've been having a lot of problems with my cr-10 due to the warped surface, but didn't know what to buy instead. Thanks to this video i just realised that the mirror i had next to my head was just perfect. Pulled it from my wall and now serves as a perfect printing surface.

[@randywetzler5976]

I bought a pack of mirrors from Home Depot. I just wipe across the mirror with one of those Swiffer Dusters (great for removing tiny dust particles which you can really see on a mirror surface) after each print and wipe it down with alcohol once every 5 prints or so, love the ultra smooth finish after it releases. No stupid tape or adhesives to mess with. I struggled initially with the CR10 to get adhesion on the mirror due to to low a nozzle temperature, once I dialed that in it's been my go to method. Running 215C with PLA and using Cura slicer.

[@DownenCreativeStudios]

Thanks for breaking this all down! I have been wondering about the mirror surface for a long time now - but after this video I'm going to check it out for my next print!!

[@NP3D]

I am still printing on my Glass bed but I have been using stick glue on the bed. As soon as I started used the stick Glue, I have had zero slippage or pop offs. With that said, if I try to pull it off right after the printing is done without cooling first...almost impossible. lol. I love your non technical yet very expert opinion on 3D printing buddy! As a new guy, I value your input very much!

[@3DPrintedProps]

I've been using the mirror since the glass is very uneven. All I do is spray it down with Auquanet and print. I then just give the mirror a light sand and spray again. So my mirror is all cloudy. It seems that all different things work for everyone. I think a lot depends on the environment you print in. Great Vid as Always!

[@UncleJessy]

You know, i've heard of people sanding their mirrors. I should try that on one of the spare mirrors I have. Thanks bud!

[@TheAppelEater]

Man I loved the summary right at the start! That is all.

[@Applesupnorth]

Couldn’t resist saying hello to Britney 😍😍😍 Oh ya, Hi to you too UJ 😉

[@UncleJessy]

ApplesUPnorth one of my favorite Ts

[@RR-fg7nu]

Free Britney

[@KamenRiderDoubleDragon]

Hi uncle Jessy keep up rocking out new 3d printing video because you and other 3d printing youtubes are the ones that i want get into 3d printing

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks for checking out the videos! keep saving and go for a printer you really want. You can make some pretty dang cool things with them

[@JustWanderingHighlights]

Hey, UJ I have been with you since you have had 2,000 subs and I have always lived your videos

[@handlaidtracksand3dprinted922]

Magnetic PEI beds!!! By far the best I've ever used!

[@CousinRyan]

I don't know which is better, your video or the shirt!?! 🤣👍🏻 Great info here, thank you, Uncle Jessy!

[@IModAMD]

Tested the following on my CR-10 : Stock Glass : Sucks big time New Glass : Better New Glass + Buildtak : Injuried myself often , stay stuck wayyy to much New Glass + Spray Net : Works good so far. Anycubic Ultrabase : Works great at start , but it seems overtime when cleaning with isopropyl alcool it stops sticking ... Anycubic Ultrabase + Spray Net : What works best so far !

[@GooeyDoggy]

Any updates on this?

[@VayaconChupacabra]

Hey! Rick Grimes has a print chan?@!! JK, seriously.....thanks for the video! We just got a CR-10S in the office.

[@Ramblinsm73]

Picked up 3 of the EZMAT and I am loving it. Thanks for the discount and the recommendation.

[@stonecold7306]

LOL ya gotta love a guy has a cold beer.

[@moe9142]

I actually got perfect adhesion for PLA and PETG prints by using a layer of 2 component glue on the bed. For PETG I used a bed temp of 95°C and I also got the prints to easily remove when having the bed cool down to about 70°C for PETG prints!👍

[@AarenMusic]

Did you just say "Spray ON, spray OFF"? hahahah

[@GeoFry3]

Excellent executive summary at the beginning. Good job!

[@neillpretorius]

Just ordered me some ezmats upon your great review! Can't wait!!!

[@UncleJessy]

Nice! I have a HUGE 4 day print running on my EZMat on my CR-10 S4 right now. Then another 3-4 days for the rest of the print parts.

[@otamatonegaming]

​@@UncleJessydo they still sell them?

[@labstream4122]

My glas was level, my printbed was not. My first big success was using the LokBuild by Kudotech (also a printbed-"sticker") directly on the glass (bed heated to 50° for PLA). Sticks like hell while printing, and can be removed when it's cool again, never had a failed print. My next try was to use a 1mm steel plate instead of the glass, also with the lokbuild surface directly on it. At first it was awesome (because you could just flex the thin steel-plate and the print would pop off), but due to the printer-bed not being level, after some days that steel-plate also got warped. For the last few months, I stuck to the original glass with the lokbuild on it, and have never been disappointed by it.

[@Em-wb4kf]

A note about hair spray: I find if I spray some of it into a small container (the lid) and then take a paint brush (about 2cm wide) to apply it, I don't have to breath in or smell the stinky fumes of the spray itself and, note, it is flammable. I wait until it dries before turning on the printer. It works really well this way and gets a good even layer of the sticky liquid. Wash the brush afterwards before it dries hard.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Ha! I love the video overview at the beginning! That's genius! I've been using a piece of mirror my local glass company cut for me...12.25" x 12.25" so it complete fits the aluminum bed. Oh, and just added a PEI sheet. (Since being bald, it's awkward buying AquaNet Hair Spray at WalGreens!)

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

Great video. Thanks for the info, I didn't realize that the issue was crap glass. My CR-10 leveled great on the corners, but sags in the middle. A co-worker said that he uses CPU/GPU heat sink mat to shim his build plate, thin and transfers heat well

[@GeoDon999]

PEI directly on the aluminum print bed with thermal sheet in the middle to level things out. I clip the sheet down with binder clips. PLA sticks at 60-70c and pops off when cool.

[@smashcan1]

Avid cr-10 user, i use a Buildtak plate and love it. It's hard to find print surfaces which are up to 400x400 wide. had to attach to a new piece of glass though as the one which came with the printer was warped. great informative video.

[@Deqster]

*ADHERED. FUSED. LITERALLY ANY OTHER WORD. Lol thanks for the input, this is a nice spread of info covering a wide variety of surfaces. I'm curious about Creality's new magnetic bet... I might just go try it.

[@Dramaican88]

Clean Kapton sheet works great for me 3 years now for PLA and if the part is quite big I use Magigoo to help out with PLA and PETG/copolyesters. For ABS and PC though I have to use ABS slurry usually for most parts (only very small ABS parts can print well with a brim and magigoo). I have tried glass and it worked very well, but after PETG prints took chunks of glass with them damaging the surface and the weight a 3mm glass surface adds to a moving bed, I went back to kapton. I have also tried blue tape which also works great, but the tape would get damaged easily and often when removing prints, so having the same kapton sheet for 8 months and just cleaning and re-applying magigoo every few prints (5-7) or abs slurry is far easier than having to apply new strips of blue painter's tape every 3 prints. I will also give PEI a try instead of kapton, because it might work better with magigoo and PETG/copolyesters which is the type of plastic I print most with nowadays.

[@michaelt3172]

I legit just looked up a video this morning on this topic and found nothing. Then you posted this

[@UncleJessy]

Michael T 🙃 nice. Hope it helped and wasn’t too much of a rambling video haha

[@michaelt3172]

Uncle Jessy it was helpful. Thank you

[@surprisemechanics6298]

You had me at grey beard, and banana

[@AllThingsMachines]

I've been using (paper) vinyl transfer tape on my printers without a heatbed and it works way better then any other tapes I’ve used. Best part is it comes in sizes from 6”-36” wide...

[@ap0c4lyptyc]

I am currently using the LokBuild print surface on a hacked and modded Cube 3 3D printer and I can say for a fact that prints STICK. Like. Sometimes too much haha! You don't have to worry any at all about your print going anywhere if you use LokBuild. Once your print is done and you want to get it off, as long as you can get under a corner you can start to pry it off and at some point it will "pop" and come off of the plate. I destroyed a print or two when I first got the plate before I figured out the best way to get them unstuck lol, but I can very highly recommend it!!

[@UncleJessy]

Haha sticks a little too good is better than lifting thats for sure... well unless you destroy the print or bed surface :)

[@MrStringybark]

Just one request, how about doing a video on how to get self-adhering build surfaces like EZMat off?

[@GeoFry3]

Found double wide blue tape on Amazon. Covers the print bed in 2 pieces. Works great.

[@UncleJessy]

GeoFry3 oh man now that sounds good

[@GeoFry3]

Kind of pricy but considering the hassle factor is about zero makes it worth it. Just slap a piece down, line up the second one, and take a razor knife to the edges. When I print little stuff I just put a square of it down in the middle. At some point I'd like to make a dispenser for it to make it even easier.

[@makeshaper6259]

Great video! We had an awful time with our CR-10 trying to use the glass sheet it came with and eventually threw it out due to it being too concave to get it leveled properly.

[@UncleJessy]

Ugh right? My glass had a significant dip in the center... i also think my bed isnt entirely level either

[@cowboy124aa3]

I'm using wham bam build plate system, i love it, i even had a very small curl on the corner only one time the rest of it stuck very nicely the print never came off the build plate. Great system for me in my ender 3 pro.

[@brooklynbound75]

Same here, just got my wham bam a week or two ago and love it as well. Prints stick well and come off easy and clean.

[@vegascad]

I use 12" wide painters tape. I also hit my prints with a fan at the end of the print for about 30 seconds and they just pop right off

[@shudson70]

Wow, I will have to give that a try. Cuz mine really, really stick to that painters tape.

[@microdesigns2000]

I have only used painter's tape and have a lot of trouble getting my prints off of the plate. My CR-10 came with a little tape, and when I ran out, I went to Home Depot. I freaked out at the price of six-packs and felt ripped-off for single rolls, so I went with yellow painter's tape of the same thickness to save a buck or two. In the beginning I used both blue and yellow (painter's tape) and they work the same. It is near impossible to remove my prints from either. I print with the bed at 60c. I put some 90% isopropyl in a spray bottle and use it to soften the tape after the print, which helps, especially for medium size prints. But that means I can only use the tape once. I wonder if there is something better, but I read anecdotes like this video that say, blue tape is better... ahhh!

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

On my Creality CR-10 I have 6-7 sheets of tin foil on the heat bed, then a 1' x 1' mirror that i scratched up with an 80 grit sand paper. Then the real secret is before a print as the bed is heating up (60-70 degrees Celsius) I level the bed while it is hot and the extruder with the paper method going clockwise and hitting the center of the bed. once the bed is leveled I squirt some medium quality clear woodglue and spread it with a paint brush. Before the initial layer, the glue changes to transparent and then later more an amber color. after print rub with isopropyl alcohol and scrap with razor or spatula. Little messy but for low cost it works perfectly. In the future I decide to use commercial print bed surface, maybe some recommended in the video ?

[@VectorRoll]

I use Green Painters Tape and Elmer,s eXtreme Glue stick. There are two Green Painters tape brands I use. FrogTape and Scotch by 3M. The Frog Tape is smoother with a slightly less sticky adhesive on the back side but both work really well. When I put the glue stick on i use a 4" (10cm) putty knife to to spread it out to a very thin even layer. The prints do stick real good to where you need to scrap them off but its not too bad, usually. :P I just purchased a Ender3 Pro and the magnetic build sheet it has is pretty good. Its actually making me think of getting a something else for my home made printer. Although I am not too keen on sticking a build surface onto my bed via adhesive. I once tried the PRIJNTinZ build surface and it was a pain to remove from my Kossel Mini bed. I didn't like it to much. It worked ok for PLA but sucked for ABS and PETg. So I was thinking about this EZMat from TH3D in your video but I am hesitant on getting it as it is a adhesive surface. It does look interesting though.

[@ASkewedView3D]

We put pei on all our printers except for the MK3 of course. Good video, Brew thanks for sharing & have a great night. God bless

[@RichterScaleStudios]

I have used the Orange Lokbuild for a while holds great, but bigger prints are difficult to remove. I went to the Anycubic Ultrabase 6 weeks ago for the reason you did, my Anycubic printer base seamed magical. I have had amazing luck with my CR-10S's Ultrabase,. I just clean it with isopropyl alcohol and not a failed print with steady daily printing I have identical performance from the Ultrabase from both machines. I wonder if you got a build plate from a bad batch of whatever they put on them... Aqua Net Hairspray is the best, using it since my 2014 Printrbot Metal Plus.

[@Reddle]

Jessy! What do you think about the Creality GPL violations? Hope to see a video on that soon.

[@UncleJessy]

Reddle actually I normally avoid the super technical or community “drama” related stuff but I will say,from my super basic understanding of this, that I hope creality and other printer manufacturers that are violating the GPL feel the input from the community and share their code. I’m honestly not that technically knowledgable about 3D Printers and rely on Joel, Angus and others for what’s what. I have no idea how to even check if someone is violating this 🤷‍♂️ I love my CR-10 and hope Creality fixes what they need to fix to make this right.

[@nerys71]

Couple of tips for you Painters tape clean it with 91% alcohol first many times there was a non-stick coating on the tape and that is the cause of a problem with any kind of stick also don't be afraid to very very lightly sand it Ultra bass this surface is very sensitive to temperature and bed level the reason it works so well and I3 Mega is because it has a smaller print bed which is easier to dial in for level and keep it level the cr10 is much more difficult to get level 2 that kind of precision which is where a lot of your problems will come in it may be perfectly level for another print surface but not for ultrabass Heat your bed to 65 C and run your first layer for your filament 10 or 15 degrees hotter than normal then back down on your second layer a hot stick works better if the print is curling up as it lays down the first layer this actually probably indicates you're too close not too far away Ultra bass must be clean alcohol between every use any oil from your fingers will inhibit the ability for it to work properly the same with glass and mirror and you dirty oil at all and it does not work right Also don't be afraid to take a little sandpaper to it very very lightly 2000 grit and just very gently Scuff the surface of a tiny bit the should also greatly enhance your stick it'll still easily release but it probably won't Auto release any more like the I3 Mega does for very small finicky Parts a little bit of glue stick works very well on the ultra bass When you get a chance try some print in z it's my primary print surface for pla and the stuff is absolutely amazing no cleanup no treatment no sanding no glues nothing it just sticks and I beat the living s*** out of it :-) just don't use specialty filaments on it without testing first for example I had to use a chisel to remove the form Futura terracotta filament which adhered like cement to it :-)

[@zacharytibbits3182]

Thank you so much for the summary in the beginning

[@UncleJessy]

Zachary Tibbits haha yea I recorded the summary after I made the whole video and was editing/watching it back going... man this is so long and boring hahaha 🤣

[@zacharytibbits3182]

Uncle Jessy I’ve just been using the cream colored tape that came with my cr-10 but I think I’m going to try ordering a mirror and go from there. Do you have to rough up the mirror with sandpaper or use glue on it, or does just the mirror work fine?

[@UncleJessy]

Zachary Tibbits all of the above works. Comes down to personal preference. I know some people print on the bare naked mirror after wiping it down with alcohol, I use hair spray or magigoo, I know others who have lightly sanded their mirrors. Good news is if you buy the $10-20 6 pack of 12x12 mirrors you can experiment with what you like 👍

[@zacharytibbits3182]

Uncle Jessy thank you very much. I’ll be ordering them soon!

[@OldManHonken]

OMG, thank you for the tl:dr!

[@fergi1959]

Hey there. I got some ultrabase for my cr10 as well. I had to adjust nozzle a lot closer to the beds and I normally would. So that the filament squeezes into the cracks and crevices. After I did that at stuck great.

[@stephan.scharf]

Very fine support structures glued perfect on cheap FR4 GFK / epoxy plates. Better than on glass. And definately no warping. Easy loosen the print without scraper by cooling down under 25 degrees. After printing on glass several months (successfully) I changed to epoxy plates, it's easier and the bottom surface is awesome matt glossy.

[@mitchellradspinner4491]

Big respect for the opening summery

[@3DPrintedDebris]

I have 14 CR-10's, all using the stock glass with elmers dispurp glue stick. I've had a couple cupped sheets, but I've found rotating/flipping the glass has always corrected the issue. I'd say I have at least 1,000 prints against all of the machines, probably more.

[@UncleJessy]

Damn son... and I thought I had a lot of CR-10s... okay I'm coming over to your print farm to run a few jobs :)

[@tomar5e115]

What could one possibly want with 14 3d printers? If your selling goods wouldn't it be a boatload cheaper, quicker and better quality to pay for moulds and injection mold?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

Heh, I added 7 more since I wrote this. It might seem off to some, but it makes good sense to me.

[@tomar5e115]

Derek Kirkendall Apologies for prying but what could on want with so many?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

A lot of what I produce can't be molded due to complexity, or is too niche' to justify large lots to be made. I do mold some of my stuff, but usually in batches under 25.

[@Em-wb4kf]

I have a 'position sensor' on my Tronxy. When I tried different beds layered on top of my aluminium one, I found the light didn't work for glass . Can't remember if it did for mirror. I only use painter's tape and hair spray now which works well, but go through a lot of tape only because of some scraping. I seem to have that sorted now. Sometimes heating the bed just a little more for PLA helps adhesion, too, and no fan at the beginning so it doesn't cool too fast. Thanks for the pointers.

[@dwculp]

My current favorite surface for all my FDM printers is the Buildtak "Flex Plate" magentic spring steel surface. It is expensive but the prints stick exceptionally well and taking them off the platform is very easy. I just got a CR-10 and it appears the glass surface has a depression in the center. I level using a piece of paper at the corners but when I move the print head to the center is it MUCH higher off the bed than at the corners.

[@UncleJessy]

David Culp oh man I’m jealous. I really want to try that one out

[@jon_raymond]

I bought the 200mm additional "Flex Plate" from Buildtak and use taped down magnetic sign material as a base (a-la Makers Muse). It works fantastic. I need to buy the 300mm version. I wish spring steel as easier to source.

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

Feet? I thought it smelled like "Dirty A$$" LOL

[@UncleJessy]

Brew It, Print It, Build It, Blast It hahaha shhhh feet is more appropriate for video 🙃

[@UncleRons_3D_Pub]

but no where near as humorous

[@johncabrer2328]

Using glass for the past eight years, I am somewhat of an expert. The sweet spot for borosilicate panes is 3/16". Spray with Aquanet (5 Hold) while the bed is hot. Thin panes (~3mm or 1/8") are too thin, and will give problems.

[@Xerom]

Thanks for creating this video. I actually have a Tevo Tornado and I was looking for a new print bed because the build tack that comes with the printer is finally wearing out. I am going to look into that EZMAT solution with the glass underneath. Quick question though, how are you dealing with the screws that stick up from the stock build plate when using the glass? Thanks in advance and great videos by the way. I just found your channel today.

[@bobf3598]

Anycubic Ultrabase. $30 well spent. No spray, glues or tape. All i do is wipe with IPA and print again. 8 months and still works like new. These adhesive backed build plates, a thing of the past. If it warps, add "Mouse Ears" 1 mm thick to the corners suspect of warping. Never have warping issues doing that way. Then just cut them off. Acute/Right Angles are always prone to warping no matter what build plate.

[@derrydobbie8375]

Watching a man literally sniffing glue on youtube now. How did I get here?

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

I have 2 cr10s and have tried all the things as most factory bowed glass .Buildtac and clones from china which I believe is what th3d sells, Elmers glue sick with all and hairspray was tried. The absolute best I have found is a product called PrintinZ flex build surface. They makee a thick flexplate or a stick on flexible sheet of the same material. Its way thicker than the buildtek stuff and way more durable. You can hack scrape and do about anything to it. The only thing that will hurt it is the nozzle melting in if your z height is wrong. I cant recommend it enough. I am currently setting up some with 26 gauge sheet steel and I epoxied 18 N52 Neodynm magnets to the bottom of my CR10 beds. No more clamps just magnetic attraction! Now I should be able to pull the plates off and flex them and pop the prints off. Its pricey at about 30 bucks but I have never replaced one yet! Its been almost a year and tons of prints!

[@luispena8881]

i use the anycubic ultrabase and love it , both PLA @ 62c and ABS @82c stick like glue. key is to wipe down with isopropyl alcohol before every print.

[@UncleJessy]

yeah, I tried that as well after each print and still no luck. Glad to hear its working great for you

[@michaelo2l]

Started with generic glue stick (~75% success rate but messy), moved to blue tape (~95% success rate but more trouble than it's worth, some prints stick too well) but since switching to hair spray a year ago, I haven't had a single fail, only negative is on occasion I have to wait for the bed to cool down before removing the print... Looking for a flexible solution, even made my own using spring steel and pei...

[@MidnightMarrow]

I have a CR-10S and the glass that you showed looked quite thin. Seems like the glass with mine is considerably thicker, which I assume is really what helps with glass level as thinner glasses will have more flex to them. Though when I cut my own glass for a replacement mirror for my car I ended up getting one of those packs of mirror so regardless wouldn't hurt for me to try as I already have some. Was looking into the idea of using the mirror due to hearing about the level of the stock glass but the thought of how thin yours was compared to the one that came with mine makes me wonder if it will even really matter.

[@Po1yG]

With the EZMat, did you attach it straight to the bed or the glass plate? I'm having tons of issues with the glass just not sticking and I want a solid surface that'll let me get my prints going with no worries

[@remowo_]

Mr. Pritt water based stick glue works perfectly and does not smell :)

[@zombiedisposalsquad4706]

sooo why not show the other side of the camera? seems like you were trying to avoid it lol. also TH3D EZMat is really great, had it on my s4 and have one on my ender2 ;p

[@KellenBluestein]

I have a monoprice maker select v2, and I use a builtak sheet. It works great, things stick well but not too much, and it's easier (and better sticking) than painters tape

[@smallcnclathes]

I print with the blue tape on a pei plate that I can flex to get the print off. Cold bed and I can print PL:A and XT with no coming unstuck or lifting

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

Awesome video man, great to see what people use for their printbed, i use buildtak on my aluminum removable bed that came with my Craftbot plus but next i'm gonna look into glass or mirror with the sticker type surface similar to buildtak that you mentioned or even a flexible surface. The aluminium bed has been good so far but i don't know if it's perfectly level.

[@UncleJessy]

TheIcemanModdeler oh man I have been dying to try one of those flexible print bed surfaces. They seem great

[@Ozzie4Para]

Okay. So the stock glass bed sucks. But you can use blue painter's tape and that makes it very good?

[@3DPrintedDebris]

Build-Tak sucked ass on the CR-10. I tried the magnetic version, and I found the double-sided adhesive they used to stick the mag bed to the glass lifted with repeated removal/insertion and heating/cooling. It produced an irregular surface with peaks and valleys, and I was constantly dicking with it trying to get a good surface. In the end I tore it off and switched back to the stock glass and dispurp glue stick.

[@UncleJessy]

oh man that sucks... was really hiping that magnetic version worked well. Thanks for the info. Will probably skip out on it for now

[@Athelbert1]

When you were showing the stick-on print surface sheets from TH3D, you had yours stuck onto a hard sheet of something. Can you tell me what it is, glass/plastic/other? I'm looking for something to use as a base for the TH3D sheets or CCTREE sheets to make it easy to swap them on and off, and just clamp them to the heated bed of my Ender 3. Thanks in advance!

[@choschiba]

I always use paper glue on glass for all my prints. Still need to Test Magigoo. Really cool video. Great comparison. Makes me want to test the other options too. I have a printer with the same build volume on xy

[@zergmare7]

I am going down to lowes today to get a flat pane of glass cut so I HOPE that helps with leveling my big bed. I tried with the glass that came with it and I can not get stuff to stick and if it does the nozzle drags it around...... I have hjad the worst luck with leveling my bed.

[@nobodytoyou4887]

Another Option if you can't get Aquanet locally , head to home depot or lowes and pick some 3m 45 Adhesive spray (45 is the lowest strength option i could find and they do offer stronger if 45 isn't strong enough for you). I use it on bare glass with about 55c on the bed and works great for my CR-10 (sometimes a tad to well but overall works great), just be sure to reapply it after about 2-3 prints >.> otherwise it will start lifting on you. AND NEVER APPLY SPRAY ADHESIVES NEAR YOUR PRINTER, EVER!.

[@UncleJessy]

Nobodytoyou ! Thanks for the tip!!

[@nobodytoyou4887]

No problem , sometimes the cheapo dollar stores are not around when you need them. :P

[@fergi1959]

Where do you get the magic go? I have an ender 2. Sometimes I have a hard time releasing it from the build plate using the purple school glue stick. It sounds like the magic goo is what I need.

[@woophereigo9755]

Actually, just flipping my glass sheet over was enough to stop the bowing. I think they didn't roll the glass panes out correctly, so the corners seem to be higher than the middle. This could also be from flexing, but yeah, my CR10S4 works fine with just the glass and deodorant (lol). I have a question: Do you have ANY of the files that were supposed to come with the printer, all the sites I've checked are as corrupted as my included files, so I haven't been able to connect my driver to connect via computer?

[@jlanier]

I’ve heard good things about Geckotek EZ-Stick. Seeing how it stacks up to these would be interesting.

[@shadizzo4593]

Uncle Jessy, I have the anycubic I 3Mega and I love it. However its my only printer and after 1000+ my bed is no longer stick. Do you suggest that I get a different glass bed? Or buy a new ultra base bed?

[@rusty0101]

The only problem I've had with blue painter's tape has been that on some machines the print will shrink, and adheres to the blue tape better than the blue tape sticks to the bed surface it's applied ot. Yep, it's peeled off the bed while printing. For that printer at that time, the fix ws to use Scotch brand masking tape. Specifically Scotch brand. pretty much every alternative masking tape has a glossy surface that the print wouldn't stick to. I'm now printing to the stock PEI bed on a Wanhao, or glass on an older Prusa 2020 i3 knock off. Long term for the 2020 though is to get a sheet of aluminum to fit the bed heater, and drill it to epoxy in some Neodymium magnets for a sheet of lightweight steel with a BuildTak surface on it. That should give a removable bed that should flex enough to get even large prints to release from it. But yeah, still limited to an 8x8 print surface. CR10 only after I've re-designed the bench for the printers so that I have pace above it for where the filament hangs.

[@UncleJessy]

I would to try out one of those magnetic build plates. I still havent tried PEI sheet

[@rusty0101]

Improper Engineering did it in a way that I think leaves the bed usable for glas beds. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIHYeKClfZmUfaM. My plan had been to do the process that Angus did in kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5rQqGSQjMmlj5Y, however I've got some Neodymium magnets that I was going to use instead of the magnetic sheets. But after watching IE's solution, I'm thinking of adding the magnets he's using under the bed instead, which should improve heat transfer as well.

[@R1FamilyR1]

We have about 100 sticks of purple glue sticks so i use that. Have only printed about 20 things but have never had a print come loose or break on removal.

[@sw3dprinting777]

have you ever tried applying the TH3D EZMAT directly to the metal heated plate instead of the glass bed?

[@TheRubbs1234]

I find a spoon of sugar in water solution sticks like crazy and comes of easy when cool

[@TrainingWithJoshua]

I am using a PEI Sheet that i bought on amazon for my CR-10, 305mm x 305mm, only thing I don't like is it is being held down by binder clips

[@davidhooie4692]

I cannot get PETG to stick to ANY bed! I've tried purple glue on a mirror, I've tried Blue tape, tried other build surfaces like one similar to the TH3D mat as well. Should I give hairspray a go on the mirror? I've got my leveling right and have an autoleveler as well so I know it's level. Any advice?!?

[@bobbyccwong]

I printed with Kapton Tape + Glue Stick. Never failed me.

[@laverdadbuscador]

I'm trying to figure out what kind of bed does the Ender 3 come with? They don't seem to sell it. I can't find the sheets you stick to the plastic bed, but not the plastic bed itself. It looks like fiberglass kinda. Its slightly flexible. You can bend to get prints off, but its not super floppy.

[@stonecold7306]

I have 5 rolls of blue tape. I use Elmers Xtreme glue stuck and never have had a issue.I guess im just lucky. Sometime please have a video on flashing the firmware. I have alot of issues loading and unloading filament. I have bad hands broken hands from years of boxing and mechanic. So i want a auto load feature if its at all possable. Assited is what im thinking.Anyway thanks for the great videos.

[@leesanxiable]

Hello Uncle Jessy! I'm new on 3d printing an I just got my first cr-10 s. I try try to optimise as much as I can this baby, and at a good price ..! I'm really interested in EZMat Build Sheet 310×310 even with the coupon with 10% off to get it France it's expensive shipping is around $ 37.99 tota... Do u have some ideas to get it at lower price ? Or do I have to stick with blue mask taping ? By the way thank u for your Chanel it helps ! David

[@Spiderelectron]

"Mirror" : More than one syllable, not quite two! It's one of those hard to say words, like "Squirrel" and "Renderer" (For me at least!)

[@ChrisVZ77]

Just a heads up, the shipping for the TH3D mats is insane. I was quoted $22 for 2.

[@ethancase1872]

Kinda depends where you live i think

[@MakilHeru]

How long can you last on blue painters tape before having to switch it out with a new roll? Do you have to replace it after every single print?

[@Pedro381ispro]

Usually every 3-4 prints, only thing that will mess it up is the tool you use to pry your print off the bed.

[@1autocadman]

you should try watering down ordinary PVA glue to the consistency of slightly thick milk, use a brush and brush it on a glass build plate works great for me on my cr10s pro for ABS and PLA and it's alot cheaper than magigo

[@coppercopter947]

The ultrabase has been perfect on my cr-10. Did you get a dud? Why are you adding glue to it? Sounds like you got a dud.

[@Hawk1966]

Don't have a CR-10, want one and it's on my short list, currently using a Monoprice Select Mini V2. Had warping with the aluminium bed so i bought a piece of 3mm borosilicate glass. Can't for the life of me get direct to glass adhesion so I just lay down a thin layer of cheap Staples store brand glue stick. I have to scrape the bed clean every three or so prints but PLA sticks like mad. I thought about hair spray but even with the pump bottle I see the risk of getting it into the internals of the printer. Scares me.

[@davidthompson9359]

Is there a better vendor to go with for purchasing a CR-10 S5 in the states?

[@thacorruptor4472]

14:22 perhaps the word you were looking for was Adhered

[@UncleJessy]

hahaha perfecto