Crafting a HUGE PAVISE Shield Only With AUTHENTIC materials

Рет қаралды 110,198

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 385

@ImposCoE 6 ай бұрын

I think you using modern alternatives to dangerous chemicals is a very responsible thing to do. You are keeping history alive with your work, but we should also be able to enjoy history safely

@warc8us 6 ай бұрын

I think using safe and modern alternatives for those pigments that are toxic or dangerous is a totally wise decision. You are still mixing the pigments in the historically accurate way, that's what counts.

@MALICEM12 6 ай бұрын

All that work and effort and art put into a piece of wood meant to be beaten to shreds. You have to admire the old world for that mentality.

@DarkValorWolf 6 ай бұрын

It might have been a parade or display shield, most of the ornate pieces out there are.

@clickbaitcancer120 6 ай бұрын

Aye, nowadays all the effort goes into beating your wood without any care given to the preparation.

@annalorree 6 ай бұрын

All that work and effort and art put into a piece of wood meant to KEEP YOU ALIVE AND UNINJURED.

@annalorree 6 ай бұрын

That I would consider to be a genuine and museum quality replica, bravo.

@kirti3839 6 ай бұрын

i love running into random craftchannels and for some reason whenever I do there is a 50% chance its a german guy. great work and love from berlin

@henryeccleston7381 6 ай бұрын

Advice for tendons: after soaking them extremely thoroughly, take a very smooth faced hammer or planed smooth wooden mallet and a smooth anvil or planed hardwood board and pound the soaked tendon between them. This separates the fibres somewhat and let’s you twist the tendon as a whole to control flexibility and add strength.

@TheShieldery 6 ай бұрын

Noted Captain! That sounds like a very good idea, I'll try it in a view videos :)

@Mysucculentchinesemeal 6 ай бұрын

Shields are definitely an under exhibited part of ancient tech. The layers, the materials and the way they’re all joined is all used for specific natural properties.

@wojtekhnatkiewicz6571 6 ай бұрын

I alwasy smirk a little when I'm thinking about distant future. Some archeologist in 2000 years will discover this shield, carbondate it and be bamboozeld. "What the fuck happened 2000 years ago?? They conquered the moon but still were fighting with swords and shields??"

@nemphis95 6 ай бұрын

Okay, so I barely comment ever, but I stumbled upon this video and just went like duuuuudee. When I was a teenager I was fascinated by shields and their construction, but with time I forgot about it, now I find out there are people building them. Instant subscribe

@knyght27 Жыл бұрын

Fantastic work! Now go and do it again 5999 more times, for all the other soldiers in the army!

@TheShieldery Жыл бұрын

You want to place an order? XD

@apolloisnotashirt 7 ай бұрын

@@TheShielderyhow much?

@TheShieldery 7 ай бұрын

@@apolloisnotashirt the direct piece from the video allready got sold, but if you want to place an order, I'd charge 950€+shipping.

@apolloisnotashirt 7 ай бұрын

@@TheShieldery that'd be 950 euro per soldier! Which'd be roughly 6 million! Bah! Back in my day ye blacksmiths would forge weapons and shields for free. darn this capitalistic economy. Jokes aside, I don't think I'm old enough to be making such financial decisions such as buying a 950 euro shield. 😅 thanks for the offer~

@TheShieldery 7 ай бұрын

@@apolloisnotashirtyou're welcome :) . If you want, you can built one yourself now :)

@shawnpgorman 6 ай бұрын

Cinnabar is a mercury bearing mineral. If you heat it (don't actually heat it) , mercury will come out. Excellent work on the shield by the way.

@RP-ks6ly 6 ай бұрын

As a geologist, you never, ever lick cinnabar

@captianmorgan7627 6 ай бұрын

But please, enjoy eating your way across a sedimentary basin.

@sam1812seal 6 ай бұрын

I thought the decision to not use lead carbonate but be happy with mercury sulfide was a bit odd too. Of the two the mercury is way more dangerous.

@W4iteFlame 6 ай бұрын

Can you make it heat stable somehow?

@W4iteFlame 6 ай бұрын

This "find imperfection by sound" technic is a perfect tool for so many things. Also, you know, you are pretty awesome

@lorenzoceccantini5862 6 ай бұрын

You can sink the fabric into water and skin glue for some hours (or a day) before placing it, it will be much easier to place and then add a layer of glue to fix it. That's how i do it for painting on panel and it works

@celsus7979 6 ай бұрын

That there are people like you keeping old arts and skills alive fills me with joy. Beautiful piece, well done!

@Fallenangel_85 6 ай бұрын

Keep up the good work, you're doing humanity a service by recreating history.

@louyou6614 6 ай бұрын

I never had a.y interest for this subject before . But your enthusiasm is contagious😊

@apathtrampledbydeer8446 6 ай бұрын

I find this quite amazing, just the first sentence of this video I own a business that makes medieval shields, it just gives you hope, that there are people and businesses that can keep the craft alive.

@Aquilifer321 6 ай бұрын

This is a shield of the crossbowmen of Pavia, it was left attached to the back, when the crossbowman reloaded the weapon, he turned with his back towards the enemy,In this way the enemy's counter-fire hit the Pavia shield. The Pavia crossbowmen were mercenaries who fought throughout Europe.

@TheShieldery 6 ай бұрын

yes that's one of the theories; what it doesn't explain is the nose, the large staple behind the nose and the center grip. I think it also got set up on the gound in some way. Then the crossbowman can reload behind it and only peak above quickley when shooting. The legs are also protected and caus the dude is sitting, he makes a smaller target. It was used in most of europe btw. this specific piece was made in Bohemia, as you can see on the museums page which I linked in the description :) .

@FredDino 2 ай бұрын

@TheShieldery in addition, there are several forms where the foot is replaced with a spike, and many show evidence of being set into the ground.

@Frurin 6 ай бұрын

It is so rewarding to stumble across content like this from time to time. I quite liked the knowledge, the will to impart it, the skill and the presentation. It is like I am sitting down with a friend and being talked through the process.

@barbhulme 6 ай бұрын

Very interesting. It occurs to me that the medieval shield maker probably had a tool to adhere the material to the sub-strate. I suspect horn would work when used in the same manner as the gilder who would use dog tooth to burnish applied gold.

@panosfasoul699 9 ай бұрын

At this point I believe I've watched this 20 times and I'm currently working on my own Pavise using your techniques! Woodwork is almost done and it's looking way better than I thought I could accomplish. I just noticed how little views you get and I just wanted to comment and say you should keep it up, this particular video is killer and I'd love to see more ( not that I have any problems with the others but this one is something else). I love the humour, the detail in your process is great and not tiering not to mention very educational and helpful. Greetings from Greece!

@spook233 Жыл бұрын

In the book "On Divers Arts" by Theophilus, he writes about preparing painting canvases with gesso, and in between coats of gesso, he advised using a scraper (Ziehklingen?) to smooth the surfaces

@TheShieldery Жыл бұрын

yes, I tried that too at some point, but it wasn't as efficient and precise as the back of the Box-cutter knife.

@ServantOfBoron 6 ай бұрын

Stickers are a solution to your problem. Just attach the sticker next to the price that says: "Don't lick the shield". That's the world we live in :D Amazing job by the way!

@HeyItsFreeman427 6 ай бұрын

As an oil painter, many of the traditional pigments are HIGHLY toxic, like cadmium, chrome, and cobalt among others. It’s never stopped me from getting my hands dirty when I need to. So I think as long as you know and accept the risks it should be fine!

@Ranstone 6 ай бұрын

I definitely would sacrifice historical accuracy to avoid toxic materials, and I'm used to spending big bucks for the good stuff, like Albions and Tod's Workshop scabbards. It also might help with international shipping in some cases.

@jackpaxton9391 6 ай бұрын

"Now its time for a montage, or as we say in Germany, Montageschnitt. And I think that's beautiful."" Also it is beautiful to someone keeping old arts and skills alive, because without it, then history would be llost.

@warwarneverchanges4937 6 ай бұрын

It looks more like a distraction than a sheild, like if someone cherges you and you pop that up they be like ohhh what a nice, bam fight over.

@holextv5595 6 ай бұрын

Bohemian pavise shields was often very colorful, remnants of hussite war's Wich can be seen even in depiction of Szlacht Von wenzenbach where Bohemians are depicted with pavise shields even in renaissance era 😂

@josephvisnovsky1462 Жыл бұрын

This is amazing! My favourite irony is building a pavise for protection, using poisonous cinnabar and azurite. I must commend you on your attention to historical accuracy and detail.

@daos3300 7 ай бұрын

spectacular! to my patina-loving eye these kind of things always look too garish and bright, but of course that is how they would have looked when new. it makes me think of ancient greek sculpture & architecture, and how it all would have originally looked, painted in bright colours. must have been quite amazing. btw, there is another one of these in much better condition, not sure where.

@OnkelPeters 6 ай бұрын

Spielzeug - Werkzeug, I see the reason of the toy-tool confusion. 😀

@vegaro1510 6 ай бұрын

It took the youtube algorithm 8 months to get me here, but by God, I'm glad it got me here at last! Incredible work! Sidenote: I'm glad you used modern pigments, please don't touch lead :)

@giuseppeesposito7094 6 ай бұрын

Subscribed! I'm glad YT suggested me your channel. The shield is beautiful, the care you have for authenticity and pointing out where you deviate from it for a modern technique or material even a small bit is worthy of praise. The enjoyment and passion in what you do stand out a lot!

@thescholar-general5975 Жыл бұрын

Incredible work! Using period pigments is just crazy! I have plans to weave another rattan shield soon, and I plan to paint it with an authentic design, but I don't think I am up for using real cinnabar and orpiment like the original recipe calls for.

@JaraSchatz Жыл бұрын

This is honsetly so impressive! I loved to watch the painting part. Can’t wait for the next Video

@gerardhogan3 6 ай бұрын

Ģreetings from Australia. You've done a pretty good job. I know nothing about shields but I admire how you copied from a real object and replicated the shield. Good work

@josephbrowning4220 6 ай бұрын

Today I learned about pressing your thumbs for good luck. 👍

@christopherwallace826 7 ай бұрын

its like the original fiberglass and resin

@evanmorris1178 6 ай бұрын

Exactly right. I have a Turkmen saddle which is entirely coated in sinew and hide glue just like fiberglass.

@peakmati 21 күн бұрын

6:44 From years of experience in making blank canvas (I know it isn't the same thing, but I use almost the same materials), I can say that is a lot easier working when the fabric has been previously submerged in water. The fabric then stretches a bit , it doesn't take much glue, and is more flexible.

@TheShieldery 21 күн бұрын

indeed! but then you got some wrinkles which you have to massage out, which is still simpler then what I did in this video though XD. I did something similar in the video about the schongauer paveses :)

@Ariovistvs Жыл бұрын

Genial! Wahnsinn, was da an Abreit drin steckt, selbst wenn man moderne Maschinen zur Verfügung hat. Danke für das Video!

@Wilkomakrophage Жыл бұрын

Ich freue mich sooooo sehr auf meinen Schild von dir und natürlich das Video dazu! 😍

@xc43t 6 ай бұрын

Good job. This is a prime example of the stereotypical German (or modern times) precision vs medieval approach of "functional and good enough". If you make one shield for yourself you can play with details. I am fairly certain medieval craftsmen who needed to equip thousands of guys and did not use a lot of electrical appliances were perfectly OK with minor blemishes😀

@Tony.795 6 ай бұрын

Even swords that were made for the most wealthy weren't perfect in our modern understanding.

@scottrussell8465 6 ай бұрын

I am sure they would have chosen non-toxic materials if they knew of them, you're fine - use safe substitutes, preserve the techniques and style!

@Dominator046 6 ай бұрын

As a mega shield nerd who has long been in the HEMA / Historical Martial Arts sphere, my algorithm has lead me to the right place. Time to binge your content. +1 Subscribe.

@piccalillipit9211 6 ай бұрын

*OH MAN THAT IS BEAUTIFUL* the only thing I would say is to lengthen the revel sequence cos I got KZbin promo boxes all over it and could not see it properly

@jasonbeebe2128 6 ай бұрын

Love it! I go back and forth on using Ti white in my projects. TiO2 does occur naturally in the crystal known as Rutile. Most white pigments appear clear in the tree resin ethanol varnish medium that I make, so I find myself having to use Ti sometimes . Egg tempura might give nore options. Would Chinese white (made from shells) work? And fillers/extenders like Barite, Chalk, Talc, Kaolin Clay are white or white-ish in water based mediuns. Nihonga or Japanese style painting uses skin glue as the binder. They use cinnabar without too much caution (not suggesting you do the same), and they use a white usually made from shells. I finish electric guitars with modern looking finished using all natural and historical materials. I actually just made a pickguard using rabbit skin glue and linnen over paper (sounds just like your shield when you scratch or tap it) ... historical plastic!

@TheShieldery 6 ай бұрын

Thank you! I think I'm gonna use/try eggshell-white the next time; the problem with all those "white" pigemnts is, that they are not truly white or they aren't opaque enough and caus of that they adapt a lot of the binding agents color. Then you also got the Problem that a lot of the "whiteness" comes from the surface roughthness, like with sugar dolomite or glass sand - when mixed with the binding agent the light doesn't get reflected by the surface anymore and they get kinda translucent.... :(

@missourimongoose8858 6 ай бұрын

If you ever feel like your life isn't hard enough you should checkout the very few Aztec feather shields that are still around and try to recreate one, I know one of them is in the museum of Vienna

@lefleurondargent 9 ай бұрын

Amazing ^^ About the handles, I've seen on many medieval shields the use of clinch nails: you first drill from the front a tiny hole that allows you to not destroy the layers you've put on, hammer in the nail with the flat side perpendicular to the wood fibers (otherwise you split it open), position the leather handle, hammer the nail to make an almost 90° angle and hammer it back in the wood. You then apply a second layer of fabric on the front to hide the nails and reinforce the shield. It is then impossible to pull the handle off. If when drilling the holes the fabric gets off, you can just add glue to put it back but there is a really small risk it happens. You could also drill all the holes before you apply the fabric and pierce it then with a tool, safer but longer.

@TheShieldery 9 ай бұрын

Thank you! :) I tried that reaplying_a_second_layer_ontop_of_the_nails and first: we found not a singel shield where this was done and second is my theory why - (caus I tried it once): It's impossible to glue the fabrik/ rawhide to a metal surface like the nails, so you take the risk of a not connectet popint thats large enough to rip a hole in the hole surface when stroken off. And that point is additionally raised from the other parts of the surface, so it will happen quite fast. I do the 90 degrees thing quite often and it usually leavs a clear mark, which you can't see on the museums piece - therefor it wasn't done on this Pavese. Thank's for that suggestion, I thought about adressing that in my video about the large Normann shield, but it led to faar from the main topic, so I didn't.....

@LesFleursdArgent 9 ай бұрын

@@TheShieldery (I am movementsciences36, this account is for a non profit association about medieval reanactment) Interesting indeed. Though I must disagree about no shield with this method. I've been to many Europeean museums (I'm European), read researched reviews, and even just by researching on internet I've found many shields from museums with clinch nails going through from the front. Usually the head of the nails are hidden under a fabric or in the dark painting. Sometimes they are also left visible. You can make the top of the nails head rough by liming and engraving points/lines: it helps the glue to stick on it. Anyway, we could talk for hours about it as it is enthralling.

@mackennaomara4868 6 ай бұрын

I’m so happy to have come across your channel! This is absolutely amazing, and I’m very happy you didn’t use lead white

@TinaTissue28 6 ай бұрын

This just got recommended to me today, and I love this! Your personality is great and how informative you are while being entertaining. I think with the lead paint, having one without it, while not being authentic is still best to be safe

@saintracheljarodm.holy-kay2560 6 ай бұрын

IT IS VERY GOOD WORK. HAVE A GOOD WEEK AND GOD BLESS AMEN.

@wyyyve 6 ай бұрын

Honestly im much more scared of the cinnibar than the white lead. White lead is pretty harmless unless you sand it or have chunks of it flake off. Cinnebar is at least moderatly permiable through your skin and slightly volatile.

@Nick-Lab 6 ай бұрын

Cinnabar was mostly dangerous to the miners and craftsmen, so as long as you are safe, it should be OK.

@c4c4cr0773 6 ай бұрын

Seriously, for such a long work of painting, you should consider mounting the shield on a drawing table or an easel.

@c4c4cr0773 6 ай бұрын

Also, this is a fantastic job that you did!

@owais146 6 ай бұрын

SPLENDID MAESTRO

@renex_g3915 6 ай бұрын

GREAT PFP

@toblexson5020 7 ай бұрын

It's so easy to imagine the past as brown, grey and dark greens, all dull and washed out, but reproductions like this just show that, at least for the rich, life wasn't much less colourful than it is today.

@TheShieldery 7 ай бұрын

Indeed, but also the middle class could afford colorful clothing and painted their houses with ornaments and beautiful colours. You can see that in many manuscripts and miniatures. If you are curious, check out webistes, like manuscriptminiatures.com :)

@Yeschurun 6 ай бұрын

Das Schild ist wirklich wunderschön geworden! Gute Arbeit!

@mattl3729 Жыл бұрын

I just found your channel Andre, and I'm very impressed- this pavise in particular is brilliant. I have some advice for dealing with areas of canvas or parchment that don't seem to have adhered properly: you can take advantage of the fact that hide glue will soften with a bit of water and heat rather than just adding more glue; use a utility knife to open any air pockets, put in a little water with a small paint brush, and use a heat gun to warm the glue until it's sticky and then just press the canvas down again. The glue is much more sticky when just re-heated than it is when fresh, and it will hold quickly- much moreso than fresh glue will. Also, the museum page doesn't name any of the pigments- did you check with them and they told you the red was cinnabar? I'd have thought red ochre would be a more likely and non-toxic choice .

@TheShieldery 10 ай бұрын

they got so many paveses, I doupt they tested the pigments of more then one or two. When the owner spend so much on the Azurite pigment, I assume he also would have gone for cinnabar. There are a lot of ochres, the ones of I know would be way more brownish after 500 years and all the dirt. So the red is way to vibrant for Ochre ( I assume). Yo ucan see an even darker red right on the edge, which looks more like an earth pigment.

@Engelhafen 6 ай бұрын

Speaking as a medieval nerd and artist - I love it 😁

@mccoyfleming6664 6 ай бұрын

super cool video, definitely going to try my hand at shield making. not gonna lie i love germans swearing in english, super funny to me, please keep doing it!!

@galloglas6907 6 ай бұрын

Beautiful a work of art. Your passion for your craft is contagious thank you for preserving the history of how to create these items.

@goldie3441 7 ай бұрын

Zinnober enthält zwar Quecksilber, ist als Verbindung aber sehr stabil und daher ungiftig, vor Allem in gebundenem Zustand wie als aufgetragene Farbe. Aber Atemschutz ist nie verkehrt beim Anmischen der Farbmittel ^^

@stevenwillard8436 6 ай бұрын

Yeah, that burlap layer turned out really nice. Fantastic work.

@HenkJanBakker 6 ай бұрын

You have no idea how much I love this. Here is a tip.... two tips. Use more glue when gluing the Hessisches Tuch. Pre-soak the cloth to make it more malleable. Now you have to wait for it to soak up glue before you can get around corners. Yes, messy and hard, fast work but I think it solves a lot of problems. And use a roller to get the glue worked in to the fabric and fill all those holes. It will surely cut back on de-lamination and prevent those pin holes in your gesso.

@TheShieldery 6 ай бұрын

Thank you! :) If I pre soak the fabrik, it gets folds which are very difficult to massage out and the glue won't soak in that good and in addition will be thinned down in the pores where I want it to be. I'm afraid the roller would bring even more air bubbles into the glue becaus it's sticky character creats a high surface tension, which can trap air quickly, especially when cooling down. :( Thanks for the Ideas though! Have you yourself actually tried those suggestions on a similar piece (open woofen fabrik and hide glue) bevore? If yes, I take back my criticism XD

@HenkJanBakker 6 ай бұрын

@@TheShieldery LOL. What you do is unique so OBVIOUSLY I did not. But I see a lot of resemblance with laminating using for instance resin. Like they do in boat building: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2PWmWyep66sfrM Not the same but it sure looks similar so technique may cross over. You may be right about the roller getting sticky but if you keep reheating the roller in a bath? On that note. Did you ever try an Iron (laundry iron) to reactivate the glue to get bubbles to stick again after you popped them? Maybe you did. I'm a but fuzzy, I need to rewatch video's I have seen. I watched them in not chronological order so..... No criticism implied. Just spitballing here

@ericwillis777 6 ай бұрын

Very enjoyable, and interesting. Thanks.

@mady383 Жыл бұрын

2:50 Mach dir eine stabile Werkbank und spann das Werkstück gut fest. Dann macht das Hobeln viel mehr Spaß. Zum Hobeln niedrig. Zum Malen hoch. Dann tut der Rücken auch nicht so weh. Und probier die Arbeiten mal mit verschiedenen Handhobeln. Das funktioniert gut. Alte Spezialhobel findest du billig auf ebay und Kleinanzeigen. 3:40 Nutze 2 stabile, gebogene Zulagen. 2 Zwingen drücken aussen . Die Mitte macht das krumme Holz. Auch die Nutzung einer großen, groben Raspel solltest du mal in Erwägung ziehen. Du wirst überrascht sein, wie schnell und präzise das geht. Schlag die zu langen Nägel einfach schief ein. Entgegen der Zugrichtung des Griffs. Das wird wesentlich stabiler. Die Klammern ohne Spitze. Dafür aber dünn vorbohren. Zur Verleimung des Überzugs: Ich würde mal versuchen, in Etappen zu verleimen. Von innen nach aussen. Das Mittelstück, die Kanten und dann den Rest. Auf beiden Seiten immer parallel arbeiten. Bei den Kürschnerstellen (keine Ahnung warum man diese Fehlverleimung so nennt) nutze einfach eine Spritze. Die Holzarbeiten wären für mich als Schreiner leicht zu machen. Hab richtig Lust darauf bekommen......aber bei den Farben bin ich dann wieder raus. Das würd ich nie hinkriegen.

@TheShieldery Жыл бұрын

Uhh, ein Experte! danke für dein Feedback, du must ja nicht glaich auf den ersten versuch alles machen, Acrylfarbe ist auch gut genug. Trotzdem schadet es nicht auch mal was neues zu probieren ;) . Farbe herstellen ist sehr ähnlich zur herstellung von eigener Fugenmasse aus Sägespänen. Ich hab keinen Platz für ne gscheite Hobelbank. Dafür ist der Keller zu klein. Ich hab schon nen Kehlhobel und nen guten Stanley (no 4) . Bei Nadelholz mit vielen Astlöchern macht das nicht so spaß und man braucht halt auch skill um erkennen zu können wie die Bretter geschnitten worden sind und in welche Richtung man besser hobeln kann. Das wäre alles zu viel für ein Tutorial über eine Pavese. Der Schild ist mit 120cm ziemlich hoch, da müsste ich mich wenn er senkrecht steht die ganze zeit bücken oder den Arm hoch halten und kann daher die Hand nicht richtig auflegen. Narmalerweise würde ich mich auf einen Stuhl setzen und ihn gemütlich in einem anderen Zimmer bemalen. Das hab ich hier nicht getan, erstens wegen den giftigen Pigmenten und 2. weil ich das Set für das Video nicht wechseln wollte. zu 3:40 ; hab ich probiert, aber da machen die Dübel probleme und sind entweder im Weg oder brauchen mehr Druck um ganz in beiden Planken zu sein und keinen Abstand offen zu halten. Zudem brauchst du auch Keile an der unteren Seite, weil die Zwingen sonst nicht senkrecht aufliegen und abrutschen, was dann trotzdem oft beim zudrehen passiert. Da gehen mir dann die Hände aus und bei caseinleim hast kein großes Zeitfenster in dem du den Pressdruck aufbringen musst. Ich hab schon ne grobe Raspel, aber kann halt das Werkstück nicht gut einspannen. Der Boden in der Werkstatt ist auch uneben, wenn ich ihn an den Böcken festmachen würde, wackeln die wieder und die unebene Oberfäche des Werkstücks machts auch nicht leichter. Das mit den langen Nägeln ist ne gute Idee. es lässt sich halt schwer sagen wie dick der Rohling tatsächlich an der Stelle ist und ab wann man das tun sollte. Bei den Klammern hab ich schon vorgebohrt, aber wenn die Handgeschmiedet sind und ich die Dicke nicht genau weis.... Zur Etappenverleimung; das funktioniert nur mit PVA-leimen, nicht mit gluteinleimen, denn die verlieren einen Großteil ihres Volumens beim trocknen (hier hab ich den Hautleim 1:4 mit wasser eingeweicht) und dabei entstehen große Spannungen. Wenn diese nur einseitig wirken verformt sich der Rohling über Nacht - ich habs ausprobiert- , deshalb sollte die dicke, im Stoffe gebundene Leimschicht auf allen Seiten in etwa zum selben Zeitpunkt aufgebracht werden. Wie stark die Verformung ist hängt auch sehr von der Art der Bretter ab, ob sie eher Kernbretter, oder Schwartenbretter sind, wie sie getrocknet wurden, usw. , worauf man auch achten sollte, wenn man die Bretter anbringt.... alles komplizierte Materie die ich in nem anderen Video über den Bau eines "normalen" Schildes in Plankenbauweise behandeln werde. In der Spritze, speziell in dem dünnen Ende vorne kühlt der Leim zu schnell ab und verstopft die dann. Deshalb müssstest du diese vom warmen Wassr sofort in die Öffnung stecken und einen stehten Fluss aufrecht erhalten, wobei das meiste volumen von dem was du einspritzt beim trocknen eh wieder appanten kommt. Das funzt auch nicht wirklich und wird von mir nur in Ausnahmesituationen gemacht, in denen nichts anderes geht - z.b bei der klar sichtbaren Rückseite der Schongauer Pavesen. Hier geht man besser mit dem Pinsel drüber und lässt den neu aufgetragenen Leim, den alten Leim wieder aufweichen und tränkt denn alles wo viel wie möglich.

@mady383 Жыл бұрын

@@TheShieldery ich glaube, ich werde auch mal versuchen so ein Schild zu bauen. Wie alle Schreiner hab ich natürlich auch so meine Hobelsammlung....Nostalgie halt. Aber genutzt werden sie nicht. Macht man heute alles mit anderem Werkzeug. Aber bei diesem Schild wären Hobeln und Raspel tatsächlich mal das richtige Werkzeug. Das macht es für mich so interessant. Hobelbank wäre für dich sogar nicht das richtige. Du musst ja von allen Seiten an dein Werkstück. Aber stabile Böcke, die mit dem Boden verankert sind, würden dir extrem helfen. Und dann das Werkstück einfach mit festzwingen. Und wenn es dann an die Feinarbeit geht, machst du dir einfach eine Erhöhung drauf. Kraft/Hobeln niedrig. Feinarbeit/Malen hoch.....dein Rücken wird dir es danken. Die astige Fichte ist zum Hobeln natürlich nicht so dolle. Um zu erkennen, in welche Richtung man hobeln muss, braucht man aber keinen skill. Einfach beide Richtungen probieren. Eine ist meist besser. Das wirkliche Problem ist, die Messer scharf zu bekommen und die Einstellung. Hatten die es früher vorallem bei den Stecheisen auch einfacher (zumindest bis vor 100 Jahren). Der Stahl war härter. Also nahm Schärfen besser. Und stand länger. ...ist aber sehr gerne gebrochen( Astloch, Stemmarbeiten) Zum Verleimen: Mach dir einfach an den Dübelstellen mit einem Forstnerbohrer genügend große Löcher. Deine Zulage könnte dann auch kaum verrutschen. Zwingen richtig anzusetzen ist aber trotzdem eine Kunst. Da hilft nur Erfahrung. Um mehr Druck auszuüben, kannst du auch nochmal quer mit Kanthölzern zwingen. An beliebiger Stelle. Auf der Rückseite must du halt nur mehr unterfüttern. übrigens: Wenn dir deine Bretter beim Verleimen verrutschen, schlag an einer Leimkante mindestens 2 kleine Nägel ein bisschen rein und petzt sie mit der Zange ab, so dass sie etwas überstehen. Dann verrutscht nix mehr. Die Dübel kannst du dann nachträglich einschlagen. Bei der Flächenverleimung gilt: Egal was du machst. Du must es nur auf der anderen Seite auch machen. Du kannst also ruhig nur die Mitte verleimen. Must es dann aber auch gleich auf der anderen Seite machen. Je wärmer die Bude. Und je wärmer das Werkstück, umso mehr Zeit hast du. Bei den Kürschnerstellen würde ich mal probieren, ob mit Heissluftfön gelöst und wieder erstarren lassen funktioniert. Müsste gehen. Ich weiss es aber nicht. Zum Verziehen des Holzes und der Festigkeit: Du wirst heute kaum noch Fichtenholz finden, dass der Qualität des Mittelalters entspricht. Fichte will es eigentlich kalt und nass. Sie gehört ins Gebirge.Auch war es im Miitelalter kälter. Sie wurde bei uns nur überall angepflanzt, weil sie unter den warmen Bedingungen schnell wächst. Aber deshalb auch ein grottenschlechtes Nutzholz ist. (und weil angepflanzt wurde, wo sie nicht hingehört, gibt es heute auch Borkenkäfer und Waldsterben) Ich hab mal die Jahresringe an einem alten Telegraphenmast aus dem 19 Jahrhundert gezählt. Und dann mit einem neuen gleichen Umfangs verglichen. 183 zu 56. Die hatten früher also wesentlich weniger Probleme mit Verzug. Und das Schild war wesentlich stabiler. Warum ist eigentlich dieser Nocken an dem Schild? Ich dachte zuerst, der wäre um es zu tragen. Oder auf dem Boden zu stellen. Aber das kann ja so nicht sein. Dass du dein Video auf Englisch machst, kann ich verstehen. Aber es wäre nett, wenn du deutsche Untertitel zufügen würdest. Denn gerade bei den technischen Sachen bin ich sicher nicht der einzige, der mit seinem bescheidenem Englisch da Probleme hat.

@TheShieldery Жыл бұрын

@@mady383 Würde mich sehr freuen dich inspiriert zu haben ;) . Ich hab halt nicht die Möglichkeit für stabile Böcke und im Boden verankern wird auch nix. Die Holzqualität hat schon merklich nachgelassen, aber dafür sind die Preise explodiert XD. Moderne Fichte zu hobeln ist ein Pain in the Ass und um die Astlöcher bricht zumindest mir immer was aus und dann muss ich eh wieder mit der Fächerscheibe drüber. Die Strategie die du zum verleimen Vorschlägst kommt mir doch wesentlich aufwändiger vor, als meine. Wenn man die Löcher von meinem sehen würde, wäre deine besser, aber ansonsten... Wenn du willst kannst ja deine Idee auf einer Seite der Pavese und meine auf der anderen probieren. mit nur zwei Hauptdruckpunkten muss man auch noch viel genauer hobeln... Wenn du's in Etappen verleimst hast halt noch mehr Trockenphasn und wenn du dann feststellen würdest, dass du doch mehr Stoff an einer Stelle brauchst bist gearscht. Dir gehen auch Optionen verloren. Wenn der Hautleim noch feucht ist, dann kannst es auch mit dem Heisluftfön probieren, aber wenn der Leim wärmer als 60 grad wird, verliert er dauerhaft an Festigkeit, weil sich die langen gluteinketten zersetzen. Deshalb lieber nur mit noch mehr leim. Ist auch schneller und trocknet dabei vorallem nicht auch passiv den Leim - was es wiederum nur schwerer machet ihn zu lösen. Der Sinn hinter der Nocke/Nase ist nicht genau bekannt. Es gibt verschiedene Theorien u.a: - besserer Auflagepunkt für Armbrust o.ä. - Zusätzliche Möglichkeit zum Greifen - Es verstärkt Querschnitt, speziell am stärker beanspruchten oberen Ende. Untertitel hinzufügen ist ein riesen Aufwand. Bis mir jemand Geld dafür gibt ( => Patreon ) werd ich's sicher nicht machen. Bei dem Video wären das 8h min und den KZbin-Algorythmus würde das nicht kümmern, also bekomme ich dadurch nicht mehr klicks. Die meisten Fachausdrücke erschließen sich außerdem aus dem Zusammenhang. Wenn ich electric planer sage und danach den Elektrohobel in der Hand hab, wird es klar.

@mady383 Жыл бұрын

@@TheShieldery dass man nicht weiss wozu die Nocke ist, ist ja jetzt wieder so ein Ding, dass mir keine Ruhe lassen wird......

@TheShieldery Жыл бұрын

@@mady383 XD kenn ich! Ich hoffe selber dass ich draufkomme wenn ich's lang genug vor der Nase stehen hab.

@_Mugen_ 3 ай бұрын

Man I gotta say. This was an absolute pleasure to watch! I love the historical aspects you drew and the explanation of each technique used. That and the end product was just beautiful! Well done ❤ +1 sub

@8-7-styx94 Жыл бұрын

I find it a bit funny the Pavese is to my knowledge the precursor of the modern riot shield. So oddly enough, the design is still in use hundreds of years later. Albeit with some changes for modernity. Regardless though, it turned out to be a beautiful shield. Great job!

@Supertomiman 6 ай бұрын

Fantastic video! You transmit so much passion, it makes me happy to see people doing this sort of thing.

@14pat78 6 ай бұрын

thats giga swag. cool that is from bohemia im czech so its cool to see.

@droopyjosep8530 6 ай бұрын

That was amazing!!! I'm provably going to watch all your videos in one go

@Samhwain 6 ай бұрын

I'm unsure why youtube recommended this video (it's super random) But I'm sincerely glad. It was a delight to watch the process you went through with this shield and while I'll probably never attempt anything like this it was super cool hearing the why's and how's related to everything you were doing. Thank you for sharing (:

@just-dl 6 ай бұрын

That is excellent work both in craftsmanship and artistry.

@Gindalif Жыл бұрын

Fantastische Arbeit! Vielen Dank für detailierte Zeigen des Bauprozesses!

@cedhome7945 6 ай бұрын

You should bring your work to Tewkesbury medieval festival in July 12/13 England. My friend's carry shield like that into battle!

@ukpatriot 6 ай бұрын

Hi, KZbin brought me to your channel and I'm glad it did I watched your video and thoroughly enjoyed it which I have to subscribe to the channel keep up the excellent work.😊

@Haekeldrachen 7 ай бұрын

Übel nice, ich finde es schön das du deine Arbeitsschritte so genau erklärst und man merkt wirklich, dass es deine Passion ist. Keep up the nice work!

@skawteebee 6 ай бұрын

great video! i think using modern pigments is fine as long as the intent is the same, and given how much effort you go into making the rest accurate i'm sure its fine! one thing though: i wish the reveal was longer! i wanted more time to look at the shield! this is an old video though so ill have to check out your newest ones :)

@Art-in-Making 6 ай бұрын

Great video. The shield you made is gorgeous. Thank you for showing us the proces. I'd like to make something like this in miniature for the armoury in my 1/12 scale Castle Tower dollhouse I'm building at the moment. Thanks! Edit: And I subscribed of course!!

@Bman1878 6 ай бұрын

Haha "our brand new orbital sander..." *Pulls a Makita sander out of a Bosch case* BTW: I get that the Makita probably didn't come with a case, but I still thought it funny

@free_at_last8141 6 ай бұрын

So cool! Great job, always wonderful to stumble across niche craftsmen on KZbin. Happy to subscribe.

@GadisAnime.0w0 11 ай бұрын

Beautiful shield

@satevari_forge 6 ай бұрын

Thanks YT for recommendation this channel, really enjoyed the video and the shield! My respect, Sir!

@Sturmknecht 6 ай бұрын

Awesome work.

@BESTIAL-CRUCIFIER 6 ай бұрын

What an amazing and authentic replica, and so enjoyable to watch the process of its creation! You did such a good job on it, I really think it turned out great. I'm surprised your channel hasn't got more subscribers, because you've produced very entertaining and educational content here.

@captianmorgan7627 6 ай бұрын

Today I learned about "press your thumbs".

@rougepilot5513 6 ай бұрын

This looks and is amazing! Now I wonder why such a shape was used...

@TheShieldery 6 ай бұрын

as coveradge you can wear on your back or put up infront of you while holding a spear with two hands or reloding your Crossbow :)

@Luduin 6 ай бұрын

beautiful. Its a piece of art still

@lduv1 6 ай бұрын

love you and your work buddy, hugs from brazil ❤

@Sharp_Stone 6 ай бұрын

Medievel "fiberglas" interesting!

@seedsandfishhooks 6 ай бұрын

The reason the sound was different (timestamp 11:28) is because that's the part that's over the other piece. The first piece where you thumped it, it was a thinner portion. The second part, it was overlapped, so the the sound was going to be .. lower. A thinner surface will resonate more easily and have a higher pitch.