Thank you so much for taking the time to do this! This proves that there is less "magic" in these engines and more of a logical set of rules and instructions for a successful build. No doubt, experience plays a huge roll in being able to spot potential issues.
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Thank you, Glad this is helping Thanks for watching Kurt
@remcotissink4 жыл бұрын
A big thank you for an awesome series of videos. Thoroughly enjoyed it and learned so much.
@klassikats4 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear it! We have more lessons in the works.
@kazstrankowski87213 жыл бұрын
Great video, very informative!
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
@vicky-nc3to4 жыл бұрын
Thankyou for the upload, a lot to learn, please keep uploading
@klassikats4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching, more coming
@AlexanderAprelev3 жыл бұрын
Love the videos! Thank you for putting it all together! Great to see magic of the engine rebuild. Subscribed!
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much!
@kevinthomas87682 жыл бұрын
Kurt thank you for the answer to my plastgauge question. I would love to see a video on how to measure that clearance properly since I am about to receive my engine parts back from the machine shop soon. Again Thank you.
@klassikats2 жыл бұрын
Hey Kevin, this crankshaft inspection video may help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZXXiaGHj7CZb6c You have to be one of the sizes, standard, 1st under, 2nd under, from the machine shop. 3rd under would be a problem, as getting bearings is NLA. Let us know where you are at. Sarah
@ocmacman173 жыл бұрын
Great vid. Hey how do I get my rod bolts off? I don't think I can reuse them and need to replace them. However I have been beating on the bolts for a day and they don't seem to want to come off. Do I need a press to remove the bolts?
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Trenton, Rod bolts should easily come out using a hammer to tap them out of the caps. If they are not coming out stop and re-access. maybe send me a picture of what you are working on.
@kevinthomas87682 жыл бұрын
These are well done and informative videos. Thanks for them , I have learned a lot. One question, do I need to plastigage the bearing clearances before installing the crankshaft ?
@klassikats2 жыл бұрын
Kevin, No, you just need to calculate the clearance by measuring the crankshaft journals and the case bearings. You could not use plastigauge in this instance anyway, because the way the crank is installed you would not be able to get an accurate read using plastigauge. Thanks Kurt
@john2ndname2 жыл бұрын
Kurt!..after getting the crank grounded how did you get the right bearings to be in spec with the crank measurement!..on a 2.7 the stock spec is around 56.9780mm ish!..if the crank was grounded down to around 56.7 ish! how do you get the right bearings! to have the right clearence!..cheers!
@klassikats2 жыл бұрын
Mike, You just buy an undersize crank bearing. These come in sizes of -0.25, -0.50 and -0.75 mm. Although finding a -0.75 mm bearing is tough as most have been discontinued. Kurt
@kevinthomas87682 жыл бұрын
Hey Kurt , if a 911 nose bearing measures to spec. can it be reused or is it always replaced ?
@klassikats2 жыл бұрын
Kevin, It could be re-used depending on its condition and wear. I always replace when Iam rebuilding the engine. Kurt
@kevinthomas87682 жыл бұрын
Kurt , is it necessary to put Loctite 271 on the threads of the rod bolts ? I noticed that you don’t use anything but oil on them.
@klassikats2 жыл бұрын
No not at all. Just correctly torque the bolts and you will have problems. Kurt
@kevinthomas87682 жыл бұрын
@@klassikats Kurt , thanks again.
@dennisvogel Жыл бұрын
How did you arrive at the correct torque spec on the rod nuts? I am finding conflicting info. Our factory manual says 5 mkp (49 Nm, 36 ft. Lbs.) I see a 1990 TSB saying 15 Nm + 90 degrees + 90 degrees, but it references 1978 and later MY cars.
@klassikats Жыл бұрын
stick with the shop manual torque of 50 Nm, The later toque values are for different rod bolts. Kurt
@jesse8183 жыл бұрын
Kurt, dont you need to measure the clearance on all connecting rods?
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Yes, you should not assume because one is good that all are good. It is always best to make sure that all clearances are correct. Kurt
@jackprick97973 жыл бұрын
Thanks for all your awesome videos! I have a question on a BMW M54B30 3 liter engine. It has 220,000 miles. Is it acceptable to remove the pistons from the cylinders and then re-use the compression rings while installing new oil rings? That is, assuming cylinder wear is acceptable and cross hatching is still visible. The driver for doing this is that BMW used a 2 piece oil ring design and it is supposedly known to be a culprit in cars with oil consumption. The second part is that I would like to sell the car, so I would like to invest minimal but still give the buyer a reliable car. I just want to get the car to a decent standard, not necessarily perfect.
@klassikats3 жыл бұрын
Jack, Yes you could re-use the compression rings and just replace the oil rings. I would however consider that if the oil control ring is worn then the compression rings are going to be equally worn. Also at 220K the bore is going to show some wear. If the car is running Ok but is just consuming oil and depending how much oil it consumes, i would most likely just leave it for the next owner. You could change the oil and use a higher viscosity and see what that does to your consumption as well. Someone purchasing a car with 220K miles on it is going to expect some issues like oil consumption. Hope that helps Kurt