Crawler Canyon Presents: Expanding the Ryft, episode 2 (an Axial Ryft Kit build and blather)

[@westdesertwheeler]

Got some good laughs at your frustration. I feel the same on the screw lengths in the cage. Drives you crazy and paranoid not to follow them in case it needs to be that length haha

[@CrawlerCanyon]

I felt like I was being trolled. Twelve screws to put a cage side on, and there are 5 different lengths. What happens if I put a 16 in the 14 hole? I got the screws backwards into an Element Stealth gearbox once, and sunk a screw right into the main gear. So you know I put every screw in that cage one... at... a... time.

[@rybuds47]

I always read ahead, 3 or 4 times. I like to know where i am in the process. Your approach seems strange but fun to me.

[@CrawlerCanyon]

Oh, I would love to just build a whole kit without taking the manual out of the sealed plastic bag. Axial has of course made this approach impossible.

[@islandrc-duke1972]

cool build and information

[@michaellenheiser3157]

Day of the Dead heads! 👍. You can put one in the driver seat and name the Ryft “Coco”…cat head for the co-pilot

[@rybuds47]

Ryft question. Do all the adjustment holes for the upper links affect handeling? Would higher or lower be best for high speed? Or do you have a video that disusses this topic that you could point me to? Using mine for local U4 racing, it's great on the rocky parts. I need my ryft to be stable around the rest of the off road course. Cheers i am enjoying this series a lot!

[@CrawlerCanyon]

Getting live axles to stay stable at speed is a tough get. You can tune the suspension just like any other four-link, but the front end is where you’re gonna spend most of your time. I have videos on anti-squat and anti-dive, which I would put links to but I’m out on the course right now answering this from my phone. If there’s no air on the course (you’re always on the ground) you can over-damp the front shocks to try to slow the “body roll” in turns, at the expense of some compliance- this is all trade-offs, so you need to think about where the rig does well vs. where it isn’t so good, and take some from column A to move to column B. If for instance you get lift in the nose when hard on the throttle, you want to adjust the links to take some drive out of the rear and move the bias toward the front. If you’re running diffs and not lockers, that’s a whooooollle ‘Nother can of worms.

[@rybuds47]

@@CrawlerCanyon thank you sir i can look up the vids i really appreciate you replying so fast from your phone. You are such a great resource for all of us truly thank you. I was planning on trying some actual million weight in the diffs with a center locker to start with. The track has a few small jumps but nothing big so maybe 40wt would be a good start there. Or 50? Not sure. Formula Ryft is the main focus right now because its torn apart all over my bench and i dont have room to work on anything else 😄

[@nikolasburton3025]

You have to call it, if the head fits "kittylitter"

[@jimbocreationsbu8203]

O - most definitely - if the kitty won't fit - don't put the interior in - the Kitty must be in the RYFT

[@durden.tyler537]

….and you were talking about putting a 4600 in it…that looks “untamed” even with the 1900.

[@CrawlerCanyon]

I saw someone had done the math on the gearing, and the 2200kv on 4S is +30mph. That's an absurd proposition for something that sits this high, with this much squish. From just bench-testing, first gear almost seems aggressive.

[@HellaNorCal916]

Man your not kidding about all the plastic bags. That just OCD amount of bags and you can't even really reuse ♻️ them. 😮

[@smokey7tn4dub76]

Wendigo bad Ryft good... E-clips are my nightmare and all the different sizes of fasteners that's way to much patience for me. Good job.

[@patrickzink2191]

What's bad about the wendigo

[@stankovic7150]

Nice vid. I need to say thats not a good way for filing up shock. You need to compress them to the top then close them up. If your shock is rebounding then you open the screw on the top, compresse them, then put that litle screw back. In a crawler you want that shock to go back . On offroad rc you want your spring to back them not a air in the shock. My English is poor i hope you understand what i want to say lol.

[@CrawlerCanyon]

On shocks without bladders, there has to be some small amount of air in them or they won't work. All we have available are bladder, emulsion, and reservoir. The Ryft shocks are emulsion, so I just try to ensure that each shock has the same amount of oil (and therefore rebound) to it. On any of my vehicles where a wheel has a chance of leaving the ground, I build the shocks with a little bit of rebound to them-- any others, like Desert Lizards, Elements, Traxxas GTS, etc-- will be neutral.

[@Andy_Yates]

The 'why would you do that' segments 😂. You are not kidding, some of these kits create so much waste that RTR vehicles might be a little better in that regard. I hope you get the cat head to fit because that is just hilarious. I am curious to see how the Ryft performs for you. I never knew its diffs were open until this series

[@CrawlerCanyon]

I got to the "final" few bags, and one was an outer bag, with three separate bags of 6 fasteners each. Another was a bag inside a bag, with just 3 screws in it. The two included body clips also got their own bag. The open diffs are certainly a puzzler, especially with such lightweight oil in them. I generally like to start off running kits in "as instructed" mode, and make changes from there.

[@nikolasburton3025]

Ryfteco lol