Creality CR-10s Pro Part 1: The Unboxing and (attempted) Set Up

[@KetansaCreatesArt]

Hello Richard, please help. Like you showed here 21:06 , the x gantry does not become squared. If you rotate the coupler of one side, it is going to rotate the other side too. Even if I hold the coupler of one side and rotate the coupler of other side to make it flush with the acrylic block, it reverts back to its position when I release my hands. How do I adjust this bracket to make it perfectly squared?

[@robertavery8897]

Hope you do a BLTouch V3 install. Had some issue uploading the firmware upgrade. Still haven’t got mine to work. Thanks for video

[@smilingskull7827]

Just got this printer, setup was a breeze and I went strictly with the instructions it came with, I was up and running in 30 minutes, I did the dog test print and it came out perfect. Setting up the auto level is easy and it's no big deal adjusting the auto level before ea print job if you have too. The setup is actually 1,2,3. I love it.

[@Creality3D]

Creality CR-10s Pro Printer Suggestion Feedback Activity Dear Customers: In recent weeks we have heard from our community about suggestions customers are having with their CR-10S Pro 3D printer. We are so very sorry for the inconvenience- and want to assure you we take the suggestions and advice seriously. All departments at Creality 3D are operating under instructions to solve this problem as soon as possible. We also are aware that expecting you- the customer, to do our job for us and troubleshoot these post-sale issues is not entirely reasonable. So we've decided to try something new. If you would be so kind as to email us at [e-mail], describe the problem you are having, if you solved it, and how you would most like to see it addressed, if we're able to use that feedback we'll offer you a small cash reward for your valuable time. A "red envelope" as we call it here in China, as a thank you for your patience. Please note, only the email [e-mail] is valid for this offer. Offer expires March 17th, 2019 at midnight GMT. Also please include your PayPal account address. Thank you very much for your trust and support. 3D printer technology is still evolving and we appreciate your patience while we do our best to make 3D printers good enough, and cheap enough to be ubiquitous- a useful home appliance every home in every country can have. We appreciate your patience with the fast-moving iterative process required to make that happen. Award: Participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions for the issue you have or you have seen in the community will award, and ten participants will be awarded this prize. Participants who give the related advice and solutions will award, and twenty participants will be awarded this prize. Except for the above two cases, the rest of all participants will be rewarded and the overall number of people is unlimited. Evaluation: R&D department, production department, and quality control department all will be involved. Deadline: March 17th, 2019 The evaluation results will be announced to you in the follow-up which includes whole reward participants who give the most feasibility advice and solutions. PS: This activity is not only limited to cr-10s pro, but you can also write the suggestion and advice email about our other 3d printer to [e-mail]. Creality 3D

[@LETSPLAYRC]

Hey Richard, it was nice meeting you today. Appreciate all your advice , I will be by in the near future to pick up one of those CRS 10 pros. Looking forward to upcoming videos. Calvin 👍😉😁

[@craigrethorn1234]

Once you figure out the first layer it’s great . I run the bed leveling measure program every time I turn the printer on

[@dukereginald328]

Sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me.

[@abdullahboston6963]

@Duke Reginald instablaster :)

[@dukereginald328]

@Abdullah Boston Thanks for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@dukereginald328]

@Abdullah Boston it worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass :D

[@abdullahboston6963]

@Duke Reginald Glad I could help =)

[@peteradshead2383]

I must be one of the 15%, because my bed looks to be level. But trying to get the z height correct on each print is a real pain. I can`t never get the first print it to stick , so I print a layer , stop the print and try again that normally works for me. Sometimes I still need to use the plus or minus offset to get it just right. When you get it to print the quality is out of this world amazing compared to my FFCP, so when you figure this printer out and make your own little tricks to set the Z height I think you will be happy with this printer.

[@peteradshead2383]

@@c2cworldnews204 I`ve never used ABL I just use the manual BL method . it`s a really good printer if I can find a way to get the Z height correct. I THINK my bed is level using a ruler corner to corner I can`t see any gap, cold and at 60c , so I think I`ve got a good bed there. The manual method makes no sense too, You go in to manual aux leveling, level each corner a few time until it`s spot on , then the centre one digs into the bed , then the manual say you do that, do your print and then move the adjuster wheels until it prints right …. WHAT …. you spend hours leveling it , then move the adjusters until it prints correct , THAT MAKES NO SENSE. I think it may be a good idea about a BLtouch upgrade. I`ve found today my filament run out sensor doesn`t work and if it does how to hell to you remove to old filament ?.

[@peteradshead2383]

@@c2cworldnews204 I ask is it glass or Aluminum , because it first reviews said it was glass , but the review after Christmas started to say Aluminum. I`ve not see anything about a Aluminum heat bed on their site specs. I can`t work how the leveling should go too , so you level all the corners and it presses into the bed in the centre , I have a nice little hole in the centre of the buildtek now too. I guess I can have a little crow !!!! , I just tested mine at 100c , tested with a ruler , side to side and corner to corner , no rock , BUT I can see light with a torch on the other side , which I think is just the buildtek being grainy . I`ve just removed my 5 hour test part to find it`s just layer shifted on me , so will have to use my z hopping profile.

[@peteradshead2383]

@@c2cworldnews204 This is form thingiverse forum . Are others having issues with the repeatability of the z-axis? Its pretty much a guarantee that I'll have to manually adjust the offset for every print I do. I've tried with both the original build surface (which was not the flattest...) and a glass mirror. Even when I leave the printer on between prints it will not be very accurate. It is not up to the point of COMPLETLY ripping mine apart yet , missed Z screws and the filament run out sensor not working , but I think it shows signs of being a really good printer . Why did they move to aluminum base plate from glass ? , I think to improve the Z height reliability ? , which I didn`t see anyone talk about z height reliability in any of the beta test reviews , KZbin or blogs . Not sure about the clips !!!!! , there are good and bad point to the clips , the good point is that they don`t bit into the print surface size and look to be locking it in place. I`m hoping for a firmware upgrade !!! See files in folders and long file names , maybe a BLtouch upgrade , setting the fan speed.

[@Graham_Wideman]

@@c2cworldnews204 Your issue with the Z height changing seemingly randomly: A suggestion. As I posted in a separate comment, I found that on eight wheels that grip the Y axis, the eccentric posts are a slightly different height from the non-eccentric ones. This means that the two adjustable wheels outside the rails can't be fully seated in the V groove at the same time as the inner non-adjustable wheels. So there's some vagueness as to which wheels will fully seat in the groove. Depending on which wheels "win" those will set the height of the bed. But possibly only temporarily -- as the bed rolls back and forth, the other wheels may seat better, and set a slightly different height. You might examine your Y wheels to see if they have this issue.

[@peteradshead2383]

@@c2cworldnews204 When you think you it figured out, life just knocks you down again. I`ve now got my level and z height situation, where it more or less constant ? now it`s a layer shift problem , I would get a layer shift in my model a was making not in the same place , but due to the complexity of the model I didn`t know which axis it was layer shifting. Which the only way I found was a add a XYZ test cube !!! So found it is the Y axis which layer shifting , looked at the belt which is nice and tight , the pully looks to be locked in place , so only think the Y current may be very low ?. Have you had the back off it yet to know if there is pot for the stepper current ?

[@st0mper121]

Thank you for your video I feel it has some very useful info. But did it not come with a feeler gauge? and the block that it came with also sets the height to the probe? from my understanding?¿? my cr-10s pro will be here in a few days. U put a hole in your bed? anytime your doing any kind of calibration put a sheet of paper under it and keep your hand on the power i learned that from my first pursa i3 when pinda probes fail.....

[@robertavery8897]

I had to grind a small portion of the Phillips Screw Drive tip off for the small Phillips was able to go in deep enough to remove the screws. Seems the screws have a shallow depth. Later

[@keithkamps77]

Great video guys, Ive been waiting for you to do an unboxing and review of 10'S Pro. I've been enjoying my CR-10S Pro however there a few caveats, The ABL works great but the leveling information is lost every time you shut the machine down and have to run another ABL when you turn the machine on. The other issue is updating the firmware for the main motherboard you have to do it Via Cura using the .Hex file provided from the Creality website. I would like to upgrade the machine to Marlin 1.1.9 (Currently @ Malin 1.1.6) and know how to upgrade the Icons and firmware on the LCD. Maybe you guys can do a tutorial on the firmware upgrade for the Pro's Motherboard and LCD using Marlin 1.1.9.

[@nayrBKing]

Help! I've trying for days to get me CR-10S PRO to print. It only sees the dog gcode file I'v cleaned the nozzle multiple times Leveled it multiple times HELP!

[@klawz1801]

Bryan Willis did u get it working?

[@Graham_Wideman]

13:20: Adjustment of the Y rails: This adjustment procedure doesn't look correct to me. On my CR-10s Pro, the bed is supported by EIGHT wheels, four gripping each of the two Y rails. So each pair of outer eccentric wheels adjust the tightness of fit relative to their partner inner pair of wheels gripping the same Y rail (and only secondarily relative to the outer wheels on the other side of the other Y rail.). So, the first point is you have to adjust _all four_ outer eccentric wheels, not just those on one side. But even before that, you have to adjust the position of the _inner_ four wheels (with the outer eccentrics loose or removed). Those inner wheels have no eccentric feature, but there is some slop in their mounting holes. While doing that process, you can assess the parallel-ness of the rails as well. Once those inner wheels are positioned snug to the rails, then you can proceed to position the outer eccentric-equipped wheels.I don't think much of this design. Why not remove the inner four wheels entirely, and just go with the outer wheels? Maybe this squeezes in on the rails too much, leading to later looseness? With all eight wheels installed, there's even an additional problem that the four eccentric posts are a slightly different length than the four non-adjustable posts. This leads to the inner and outer wheels being at slightly different heights. So either the inner or the outer wheels don't ride all the way seated in the V channel, slightly affecting the height of the bed, which as we know is a crucial dimension. I even suspect that as the bed rolls back and forth, it may ride up or down a little due to favoring one or another wheel's engagement with the V channel. Again, this last paragraph's issue would not happen if there were only four wheels total (the four outer ones).

[@igorsucic3620]

What is height with fillament installed, tnx?

[@ossme]

I'm surprised that Creality are using an SSR with a proximity sensor for ABL. Those two don't play well together. Are people getting reliable bed leveling results?

[@Graham_Wideman]

What issue do you believe a proximity sensor will have with an SSR?

[@tresmith2552]

Nope. We're not. Lol. Super inconsistent

[@archer9338]

Bad bed leveling is one of the biggest complaints

[@isocraftsinstallations332]

Great tip for the the stopping bed! I have the same problem and as i just started with 3D printing i have to learn alot. I own a CR10 S5 and my bed is realy banana... more than 2 mm bended on al 4 corners and the center of the plate is 0,5 mm bumbed inwards. Lots and lots of tuning to do but now it is "ok". Now (and if anyone can help me with this problem i would be very grateful) i flashed the firmware with the TH3D version and i have a verry strange problem. After every auto home i like to level the bed on the corners just to begin a perfect start. But i found out that, as soon i give a manual order, all endstops are no longer working. This happens every time. So even if i move an axes manually, select level corners or what so ever.... the endswitshes turn of. The only way to reactivate them is to turn of the printer and do only a auto home and directly start printing. Pretty strange as the endstops are made to stop a motor at any time. Could someone help me with this? Thanks!

[@rsmda]

Where can I get one of those Tool bag?

[@tomasvartorelli5624]

Sr. name for mini tools? Thankss!

[@archer9338]

I would love to see that big ribbon cable get upgraded to a SATA cable.

[@gustavopagnozzi2306]

Just as a side note!! The extruder is NOT a regular MK10!!! It is a completely different thread! Great video BTW.

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing 👍😀

[@Majkey]

Ever since I got this chinese printer I have had noting but issues getting the first layer right... In hindsight I regret not getting the prusa MK3... but hey you live and you learn!!!

[@Majkey]

by the way, every 5 print after 30 min of z adjusting turns out amazing. But for the 700 euros i payed for it, NOT WORTH.

[@rc.trickshots198]

Hey can you plz plz share a profile. Thx loved the vid

[@Carlovfx]

Thanks to some youtuber I bought this terrible printer and now I am stuck with a warped bed and terrible sensor. Fucking terrible printer, the bed is warped in micro areas, the sensor gives a different result every fucking time, the auto leveling function doesnt help at all. Amazing job Creality, amazing...

[@Hero1117a]

Very informative, Can't wait for part2, Always read the instructions, at least once. We are men😁

[@MrFastFarmer]

Got the cr-10s pro V2. You would think Version 2 would be better... nope. This printer out of the box is a piece of shit.

[@hamps856]

these machines suck. I got one and it is impossible to leave the x axis. The eccentric bearing does not good. Customer service is non-existant.

[@jamesfraser7483]

Cr-10s Pro what can I say but what a pile of shit. Won't level correctly and print different thickness of layers regardless of calibration of adjustment. And that's not talking about stupid jumping of x axis that isn't even remotely level. I highly recommend avoiding Creality and Bang good. Horrific service and attitude. So in short the Cr10s-pro is garbage.