Creality CR-30 / Naomi Wu's

[@MakersMuse]

Really cool to see, so I know what to look out for! Such a cool machine, I kinda really want to build a transparent enclosure around it with a little exit flap and a parts bin beneath once it arrives.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Build that enclosure! Cannot wait to see what you do with yours.

[@SaltGrains_Fready]

Sounds like a version of the machine in the near future. I can't wait 2 have several running in production.

[@jesusisalive3227]

I asked about an enclosure on the last video and someone said that you can't just put a machine in an enclosure or you will burn it up. So whats the truth?

[@MakersMuse]

@@jesusisalive3227 it could overheat if it's too insulated yeah.

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

Seriously brought reflections of Fallout 4 Ammo production setup lol

[@FilamentFriday]

Nice update. Ironically I wonder if using a raft is a good idea to make the bottom smoother.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I mean, dude, maybe? Hmm...

[@henry67278]

I was thinking that aswell but it would encreas the detachment force required so might encreas that dipping artifact for long prints.

[@Chriss_Workshop]

I usually live by rafts, so i could see it being a thing here. But theres still that pesky issue of the belt material coming off with your print

[@bobbunni8722]

I would think it would be possible for the raft or parts of it to stay on the belt?

[@gcod3d161]

Kapton tape

[@oburi85]

Nice! Naomi has such a good influence to creality.

[@henry67278]

Please print some benchmarks at 45° with supports to compare with standard cartesian printers.

[@kazolar]

My wife hasn't been informed of this, but I am getting this when it comes to KS -- I trust Naiomi will make it as good as it can possibly be, and I don't have the time to build one from scratch. I need to start clearing room for it now.

[@andrewa8569]

Make a 3d scan of your leg in stockings and print it so you can make the leg lamp from the Christmas story

[@Reach3DPrinters]

genius sir!

[@Unmannedair]

Ah, that sounds a little disturbing man... Nobody wants to see a hairy leg in fishnets...

[@Reach3DPrinters]

@@Unmannedair That would be a horror to see, a rocky situation indeed... perfect for Halloween!

[@Reach3DPrinters]

My initial thought was actually Joels leg in tube socks! with the stipes! Kind of a joke on the Christmas story leg.

[@time_traveling_wizard]

You should try to print one of those cheep bendy snakes they have at like the zoo I would love to see how the angle effects interconnected parts and you get a giant bendy snake out of it

[@retovath]

WE DEMAND THE INFINITE BENDY SNAKE!

[@DeanRockne]

@@retovath To make it a truly infinite bendy snake, it should feed into a shredder/filament extruder that feeds filament back into the printer. BENDY SNAKE OUROBOROS!

[@brandond313]

Me: I have enough 3D printers. Also me: I'm getting a creality CR-30.

[@FusionSource]

Hey Joel, this is the printer I have been waiting for. Thanks for sharing Joel, so exciting.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks for watching!

[@portfolio2259]

Blackbelt, already makes these...

[@AmusementLabs]

I think what might be helpful is to have fans on the sides of the belt to cool those overhangs. Additionally, if the belt is a mesh there could also be a fan under the belt. Lots of possibilities, but a long way to go. Another thing is that I'm also surprised they didn't just use the buildtak like surface they're putting on all the printers now.

[@3DHP]

Thanks for the follow up Joel, I can't wait to see the next 10 videos from you on this Printer.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Only 10? :)

[@mehurricane]

I’d like to see the purge line rotated 90 degrees so it is self clearing instead of going around and coming up the other side... Thanks for all your great videos!

[@GeneralNickles]

You should print Angus' little round tolerance gauge. I'd love to know what tolerances are on this bizzare machine.

[@3Drcnc]

I really think this is the way to go with 3d printing in the future. For being the first kind of cheap belt printer it looks really promising. Great videos as always Joel. 👍

[@TheBenenene10]

How did you get that many subs with a camera focus that wonky? Well you've got one more now.

[@UncleJessy]

Wow that benchy turned out dang nice!!!

[@barracuda6817]

Not great

[@taikeanwahwesley6335]

really not...

[@simp-slayer]

I hope this was sarcastic

[@jordan28803]

Turned out shocking 🤯

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great update. I'd like to see a small production run of a dozen of some medium complexity model (optimized for belt printing) to see if they run uninterrupted and compare the quality of all dozen of them.

[@hazepheno925]

Every time you print something, index the belt seam directly in front of where you start your print, so that only an extremely long print would ever have to print on top of that seam.

[@twichy4life1]

Maybe try some curved prints that use up the belt in an odd way. Like a recurve bow and some arrows but at varying orientations.

[@macgyver9134]

I'm curious how the belt will handle wide prints. Will they warp and pull the belt up on the sides?

[@eelcohoogendoorn8044]

Good question. I think some kind of tank-track bed might be superior; although it wouldnt peel off as incrementally...

[@girrrrrrr2]

Belt I believe is steel and under tension. They shouldn't be able to warp the belt.

[@Unmannedair]

@@girrrrrrr2 nope, the belt is a Kevlar weave with a pei coating.

[@girrrrrrr2]

@@Unmannedair oh interesting. That's... Unexpected.

[@Unmannedair]

@@girrrrrrr2 kevlar weave belts are standard in some industry belt applications.

[@clone4211]

My solution to that kink in the I-beam would be to ditch the outflow rollers and replace them with a thin spring steel sheet that overlaps with the lower portion of the belt and the surface of which is at the same height as the beginning of the belt providing a smooth transition off the belt without disturbing the print upstream. This would also prevent prints from getting stuck in that first outflow roller as had happened with the Benchy and potentially jamming the belt. Ideally the steel outflow table would be sharpened where it overlaps the belt assisting in its function to lift stuck prints off the belt. Rollers are designed to be a low friction surface for packages to zip down them at high speed. They are not designed to provide a level and flat surface for prints to inch across them millimeter by millimeter, especially with how far apart those rollers are spaced.

[@Henchman1977]

Seems to me you'd want the bed to pull away from the part at a sharp angle.

[@AlexandreAubrey]

One thing that would be cool to see printed is a model plane. Typically larger models need to be split into many pieces, but with this machine you would only need to print 2 parts: the wings and the fuselage and still make a very large model. Another idea that would be cool is model ships, they tend to have a very elongated shape, perfect for utilizing this machine's ability to make a very large single-part print.

[@jamesburkhardt5143]

could see this working well when I was printing face shields for first responders months ago...just keep spitting them out without having to do a set amount per print

[@MrHubert1710]

Is it possible to set it up for continous printing? I have in mind two cases: 1) Hypothetical - "Infinite" length part - like "I" beam with repeating pattern 2) Pratctical - continous mass printing of single part type (also repeating pattern just with distance between print regions) because it removes print from bed with belt. Very intriguing printer, if repeating patterns are imposible i feel it would be big waste of potential

[@jefbed212]

It would be interesting to make 2020 and 2040 extrusion on it. It could be used for prototyping machine designs without having to cut aluminum. The belt will hopefully stop leaving behind material after a few prints.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I definitely want to try printing extrusion

[@aprilk141]

Based on the belt (it's no longer a bed) being soft, never use I scraper made of metal or hard plastic.. the print removes itself via the bend of the belt.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

UNLESS it's super tiny, then it needs assistance for coming off

[@aprilk141]

@@3DPrintingNerd yeah, but printers designed for tiny prints should be used for tiny prints. But also, wow, thanks for the reply my guy, you helped inspire me to own and use 3d printers.

[@askjacob]

@@3DPrintingNerd then just super-size raft them so they will self pop off, a little bit of filament is better than piercing the belt

[@johngrouse]

A year on from this video (and these things have probably been discussed) I've found that the cooling fan for the heatsink was not effective enough to prevent PLA melting at the tip of the PTFE tube. Jamming became a constant issue. After swapping out the heatbreak for a bi-metal all metal one which moves the end of the PTFE much higher in the heatsink, the jams went away. I also found that the PTFE quick fittings (PC4-M10) which come with the printers all either failed at some point or had a huge amount of slop in them. Swapping them out with another brand sorted that out as well. Replacing the stock PTFE with Capricorn was also applied to our four CR-30's. So, Naomi/Creality, please consider applying these changes to shipping CR-30's as they have significantly improved our printers?

[@exukvera]

Print Thanos's double-Edged Sword in one piece.

[@Bishop0178]

already been done

[@OzAndyify]

Once they get this right, I'll be getting one for RC aircraft and hydrofoils. RC planes need a small nozzle, thin wall, and reinforcement with CF tubes and strips. Hydrofoils are printed solid with hole for Al section, then covered in heavy duty shrink wrap.

[@floodmonkey]

Is the location of the belt stitching something to do with the indent in the print?

[@coryryker3305]

Couldn't tell if the belt was stitched, but vulcanized is what is needed here. Though I feel it would give you a slightly flatter smooth spot.

[@alfredone78]

Please, could you share the GCODE and the settings that Karl gave you?

[@seangreenhalgh1302]

Great to see this doing reeaaallly long prints. I have a feeling the bed belt needs to be really tight to get rid of that artifact you saw because the play in the belt probably caused the model to lift with the belt when it got to the lower part.

[@radicalxedward8047]

The coolest thing about it printing at an angle is that curved stuff will generally look smoother than on a standard printer that’s printing a model horizontally/vertically. I’ve actually intentionally angled models 45° to achieve that on my Ender sometimes.

[@henry67278]

Wonder if using small glass tyling as a bed would work with a faceted drum for the idler and puley would work as a build surface

[@tavarisjones551]

In woodworking, that indentation in the ibeam is referred to as "snipe". It is common with things that move across a bed like a jointer of planer. I would imagine that if printing a long item like the i-beam, that it could rock forward as it reaches the end of the bed and cause it to lift near the print nozzle.

[@wblteen]

We use belts like that at my work for our conveyors. Not every belt has that stitching but almost all do. The ones that don't have a small bump where the ends are connected, so I'm sure they use this type to mitigate that. We also have non-textured belts as well, that might be something to look into. I wish I could post pictures in the comments here to show some of the large belted conveyors we have.

[@HotelPapa100]

All tightening up of the build belt will not alleviate the lift problem, if a decent balance for parts adhesion can not be struck. That's just in the character of belt mechanics. I know a thing or two about that; it's literally my job. In the same vein: You DON'T want to make the zig-zags of the splice shorter, if you still want to be able to keep that belt under high tension, ESPECIALLY at elevated temperatures. Varying properties over the splice will also remain an issue if there's a considerable difference in properties between the coating material of the top coat and the core, the latter is by necessity thermoplastic (usually TPU or PVC), to make the belt weldable, the former may well be cured / crosslinked, thus rubber-like or even actual rubber. The fact that the white core material seeps up at the weld line tells me that the top coat most probably is NOT thermoplastic. Having seen the surface pattern up close, that's definitely a deliberate embossing, not just a random fabric imprint. If the top coat material is indeed rubber, they may want to consider a truly seamless belt. These exist, but may not make the notoriously cheap maker-market happy...

[@cyphre]

I think there are definitely some more fundamental issues with printing at an angle as well as the conveyor bed. You see in the smoke stack on benchy, the PLA is perfectly fine being placed downward and pressed into a build surface, but other things happen at an angle, where there is free reign of the material to shift.

[@elementdw]

It seems like the flexible belt is a problem. The stitching for one, but also that it can be distorted by the print. My guess is that rather than lifting the print from the belt, the entire belt can be lifted slightly from the heater underneath, which caused that seam when it started trying to pull the belt away from the long print.

[@tegs40]

Build the pieces to put together a desk, such as the legs and very long items can be printed all in one printing as well as one after the other. Might not be as cheep as wood but would be able to stylize it to your own taste and a add in your own shelves, drawers and such.

[@delecti]

Despite being so similar, it's interesting how different the tradeoffs are with belt printers vs other FDM printers. It's almost more like the difference between traditional FDM and resin printers, than the difference between Delta/I3/Cartesian.

[@loachridge]

For the cost of the "dead end" why not just have a thin sheet of hdpe set 5mm away from and 1mm lower than the belt roller. And my smooth bed surface usually becomes part of my design process. I cant do much with a honeycomb surface that will need filled and sanded before being used for adhesive or presentation.

[@earthspawn3d]

Tilt the benchy 40 degrees towards the print-head and add supports for the bottom part. So basically printing it flat from the print-head plane.

[@nolesnieckus4615]

I wonder if a stainless steel conveyor belt would work. Thin sheet that would leave a smooth surface

[@midknightgiant4884]

Nice video but we got to get you printing a sword on that!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

WELL YES OF COURSE

[@petriheinonen638]

Link's Master Sword hopefully 🙏

[@NAK3DDesigns]

For the record I have already sent him two presliced sword files. 😁

[@xaytana]

The idea is great, and I know it's been DIY'ed in the past, not sure if this is the first production infinite-Y machine or not, but execution needs some work. Rather than doing the cooling portion of the belt and doing the weird angle thing to break the piece off, I'd rather see testing done with having a scraper that becomes a flat platform before the first roller, which would of course have to be level with the bed, meaning the scraping edge would have to be tangent to the initial curve of the belt; in theory, this should work a lot better, but nobody knows until it's tested. Another thing that should be part of the machine is auto belt tensioning, a lot of people aren't going to know how to properly tension a belt, adding springs and a slide to the rear roller, which doesn't get used, would be a useful OEM upgrade for those that don't want to modify the machine. Belt material, pattern, and construction seems a bit jank, the materials themselves might be compatible with printing but the construction of said materials isn't, and the pattern on it might be good for a general use belt but clearly isn't great for printing as it's too mechanically adhesive. Also the angled print head is good for continuous prints, which is what this machine is clearly designed for, but isn't so great at miniatures, as seen by the Benchy proving to be a bit odd when the overhangs are modified to be at a different angle than what is typical. As for testing that you can do, there's a couple things I'd like to see. Print a Benchy on top of an angled block, so that the boat is angled to the belt but perpendicular to the nozzle; this may prove to be a solution to the overhang problem. Another test that I want to see is the machine put on a stand, so that the belt is angled in relation to the table, but the nozzle is parallel to the table; I want to see this for adhesion properties of the belt, and for printing properties of printing onto a severely non-flat surface. As a side effect of both tests in combination, you could create a production mill with this machine, where the prints pop right off and are easily gravity fed into a bucket, and the angled setup would make the machine taller but not as deep. Combine these with the potential fixes I suggested in the former half of this comment, and it'd be an almost bulletproof constant production machine; eat your heart out Prusa print farm.

[@Blamm83]

This machine really is a potential production beast! Wouldn't it benefit from a high flow hotend (volcano / mosquito magnum or similar) and some beefy layers? You could pump out functional parts

[@stevesloan6775]

Long time watcher first time commenting. Love it! Miss Woowoo and her collaborative team have done an amazing job! I wish them all the best of luck. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🤓

[@Wayne_Nero]

Game changer! Looks like the future!!

[@H3xx99]

That textured belt will make post processing a pain in the bert. If they can find a durable enough smooth material, and dial in the settings, that thing will be pretty awesome...

[@zackarybrown6752]

I think it would be nice if they had torque specs for the bolts. For the belt it should have a hertz range for acceptable tension. Just some base lines for consistent set up.

[@TengizAdamashvili]

since the benchie is not printed in the intended orientation, you're comparing apples and oranges here. Why don't you try printing it the way that the layer lines would be horizontal as if printed on a regular printer. Only in that orientation you have all those parameters, such overhangs, text clarity etc to compare. Overall pretty exciting printer!

[@chrisBruner]

I'd like to see a test of two benches, one facing downstream and one facing upstream (side by side, maybe mounted on a platform). I think it might be interesting to compare.

[@Malandrin]

with that velt printer you can technically print very long things with it since its a belt system and you have the rollers at the end of it

[@UnwrappingByMimiKoteng]

Say, is it for sale now?

[@Review3d]

I would like to have seen a side-by-side of the bottom of the benchys (benchies?) to better see the impact of adjusting the nozzle height. Would be interesting to see if the wear on the belt was less surface too.

[@danon-theautisticmaker8112]

The thing that keeps hitting my brain - **Can it do rafts??** So you can manufacture without having that texture on the bottom.

[@techdiyer5290]

How does it start the print?? If it prints at an angle then that would be a bit weird... does the frame move to print like a normal Cartesian? Also, does the hotend have a servo or something to change the angle of printing?

[@YAOG]

Would this be a bad idea for a first 3d Printer? I know basically nothing about 3d printing, but my son loves swords and I don't think there are many other options to be able to print a full length sword.

[@ericlotze7724]

6:53 This is something i didn't expect ! Will we need new/modified benchmarks?

[@NAK3DDesigns]

Yes, I think we will.. I'd love to see a new "Benchy" designed with 45 degree printing in mind..

[@AmusementLabs]

Print extrusions for another printer?

[@Unmannedair]

Try coating the belt with PVA... PVA should be plenty flexible, and it would probably prevent the belt from taking damage like that. It will probably also help with bed release.

[@TheTrienco]

Any chance to mount a custom "scraper" towards the end of the belt? At or slightly below the belt plane where it dips, slanted edge. Might help to separate the print but more importantly, also support it to keep the whole thing from tilting and being lifted off the belt. Main problem would of course be calibration. Too low and you get tilting, too high and the whole model gets stuck. Could be useful to be detachable, so it can be used for large prints only (reducing it to the one critical moment of the model initially going over the edge).

[@snowwolves3dprintingandpro629]

I work on old fashioned printers... one idea is to put a blade across to separate the bed and item.

[@geomagicien9085]

I think if you can make the fist roller move back and add a chute for small parts(ie. benchys) that would be cool

[@ericlotze7724]

Karl had some crazy "coated, single weld, stainless steel belt" I hope this printer kick starts availability for "print surfaces" like that, as supposedly that was nearly the only thing that was hard to find for the squire/white knight printer.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I think it would be neat to see different surfaces available

[@ericlotze7724]

The things i could do with a belt printer... Imagine GIANT RC glider wings printed in one peice, boats (like 3D Printed Kayaks etc), cosplay swords, SO MUCH

[@shadow7037932]

That is kind of surprising considering that belts have been used in all sorts of industrial applications over the last 50-70 years. I'm sure there's a suitable belt out there, but probably not available off the shelf and only available via B2B deals in 1000s of quantity. I hope this opens up the door for more innovation in this space. I just hope Creality doesn't screw it up and kill the mindshare for belt printers in the wider 3D printing community.

[@NAK3DDesigns]

@@shadow7037932 I'm sure there are probably several suitable option out there, sadly I don't have the time or money to test them all so I'm very happy to see this style printer going mainstream.. I'm hoping this opens the door to custom made aftermarket belts like we see all the flexplate systems now.

[@homebodyhero4602]

Why not use a smooth rubber belt instead of a weaved one?

[@turbo2ltr]

In the timelapse, you can see the print side lifting off the belt as the done side of the rail gets to the end of the belt..

[@Howema]

this seems like it would be a fantastic way to make bumper fillers for 1970s vehicles be 3d printable, they are not overly wide as they just fill the gap between the 5mph bumper and the body of the car but they are longer pieces making something like this likely the best way to print them as fiberglass replacements are over $69+ per piece with a typical car using 6 pieces.

[@alfioscuderi5051]

Very nice video, Joel! I don't understand how the slicer should be set: I mean, how did you tell to slicer that the model has to sliced at 45°? Do you rotate the model? Please, explain me!

[@atomflunder2]

Maybe try to print on painters tape it could make the bottom smoother, reduce the damage to the belt and make it easier to come off

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Right now I am concerned that printing something like a cosplay sword needs a smooth bottom side. I wonder how that will print if it is having belt sticking issues. Maybe try Printing something liker that. They even show printing such an object. Another great print would be a Light saver. I am wondering if you can pause the print to change filament color between laser and handle.

[@Scott_Thrasher]

yup this is going to need an easy bake oven enclosure with a little speaker on the exit door that goes ding!

[@mobilechaosyt]

Print a “3D Printing Nerd” street sign that uses the complete print bed. I think these types of signs are what these type of printers are built for along with mass producing models.

[@groundskeeper5292]

Print an entire shaft for a metal detector in one piece. Or a telescoping one even? Check out some of the add ons that people have 3d printed for the simplex metal detector.

[@randomidiot8142]

I know nothing, but I think that belt needs a much more aggressive radius to break the part off the belt instead of that gradual curve. Something like a series of three tubes so the belt goes over under over in a short space.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh THAT is a super interest thing to think about.

[@ashleyalias9345]

Every time Joel says “right here” I keep expecting “on 3D printing nerd” to come after it

[@BlueBanana421]

I chuckled

[@BrickThunder]

This is such a great idea when it comes to printers, I’ve been a fan of crealitys stuff for years now and I think this will be one of their most revolutionary products! I might have to get one of these!

[@hugocostapaulino2918]

i have a crazy idea, if you put kapton all around the belt, maybe fix the problem of down pattern

[@JessicaRyan7of9]

Maybe they could use something like a silicone belt with with fibre glass tape in it. This would give it a smooth print finish.

[@Schroefdoppie]

Yeah, basically the belt they have but coated with a silicone layer. But that 'd be costly no doubt.

[@jarkkoaitti287]

i wonder if they have tried a steel belt at creality. i think they are used in factories etc in rolling applications a bit like this

[@CommodoreKazz]

Great update and awesome sweatshirt!! It’s a nice machine. I can’t see myself owning one but I’ll continue watching to see how it evolves.

[@crishudson1499]

I wonder if you were to use a sheet of 2024 T-0 Aluminum adhered to the belt and sealed at the break if you would have amazingly smooth parts. 2024 T-0 is what I used in the Army to fabricate aluminum parts for Helicopters and if it is a thin enough sheet it is extremely flexible stuff. It would conform to the bed and rollers since they do not roll at an extreme angle. I really love your channel Joel, you certainly get the creative brain juices going when you present issues or questions on how to make things better in printing.

[@Niclord7]

Nice for printing swords, rifle replica, long tracks or walls. Maybe even a guitar nek (prob won't sound to good). Wonder if you would print a few pillars how mush it would be able to support.

[@TolicaCanadian]

Hi Joel. Enjoyed your videos a lot. I was wondering if you could just use blue tape to tape the "conveyor belt" around so the bottom of the print comes out smoother . Thanks again for quality content you're putting out.

[@franklee9095]

Really a remarkably intelligent idea to angle things. I hear a lot about the belt, I don't think you need a textured one, just something like a supermarket smooth belt and have the "joining seam" in the belt with a reflective tag on it so before a print it places the seam just ahead of the print and therefore no break. Maybe?

[@sirvisser4339]

Maybe try to print a warship or an aircrarft carrier of somekind, was wondering how long it would take to print that wide

[@scualo00]

That belt looks like a treadmill belt, and looks like PVC material. Maybe you can try change it with a Habasit or Belt Service TPU gloss surface (bakery), nice video!

[@bobbiac]

Hmmm... I wonder if you can use one of those copper colored silicone baking mats or a heated bed and place them on top of the belt. Also... That belt is too long imo. You should be able to have a very small belt followed by 1/2" rollers packed tightly together.

[@woods3497]

Hey how do I obtain one of these it was very confusing when I went to Kickstarter

[@ugzz]

Something you can't do on a standard printer.. Full size Lion-O sword of Omens! (i think it's on thingiverse) ( and full size can be your interpretation of course)

[@labiq1896]

Ender 3: Make sure its squared ! CR-30: Make sure its squared at 40 degree angle ! lol aside from that, this probably a big OOF or a big YAY for the bed surface. Great grip power comes with great grip responsibility. To grippy, small prints roll under at the end, not gripping enough leads pre-mature pop off. The "Catching Rollers" should be some what closer or having a short flat platform in between the bed roller and support rollers, so that small prints wont go down the bed or getting grinded on/into the rollers. Not to mention the new definition of textured bed wobbling lol. The print finish edges looks like an italic letters but may or may not be a concern for prop makers since we just sand it off later, but may be some for people who prefer finish as it is or functional prints that require some accuracy. Customizing this may be the same just like Ender 3 but I do hope there's aftermarket texture bed belts. This one is a bit ouch for some of us. Its look promising for mass-production prints but as a guy who makes small keychains with ender 3, I might skip it or wait for "Definition Edition" for this printer.

[@paulc8617]

Try printing the utility ship from thingyverse in one go instead of 5 pieces

[@gaanong3219]

It's definitely going to add more thinking to how models are positioned on the build plate. For example, had the benchy been rotated to point to either side of the build belt. it would not have been able to make the bridge on the front window without supports.

[@juhu34]

If you really want to gauge a benchie compared to a normal machine you should print it on a raft at an angle making it normal to the gantry.

[@clowninartzvp]

Try coating the build belt with blue 3M painters tape, Length wise.

[@holtzholtz5853]

Its 1024 Canadian with shipping and considering it. It looks awesome.

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

For the bed use Hair spray it will fill in some of the voids. And I think an RC speed boat would be very interesting to see how it does it.

[@raybod1775]

A windy crazy track for small cars like hot wheels would be interesting.