Create a Milky Way Time-Lapse with any Mirrorless Camera - Astrophotography Tutorial

[@jl1oyd970]

great video

[@amanmehta2303]

This is very detailed and easy to follow. Thanks.

[@DesmondButler]

Glad you found it helpful 👍

[@wendywitzig119]

Awesome, I'm going to try it soon!

[@DesmondButler]

Awesome! Let me know how it goes!

[@understorey_life]

Wow, amazing workflow video! Thanks, really insightful! 🎉 Straight to the point 🤌🏻

[@DesmondButler]

Thanks for checking it out!

[@maurorivera957]

Awesome video! I have a Samyang 12mm for my Fuji X-T100. I will try to create a small time lapse

[@DesmondButler]

That lens is great for Milky Way landscapes at that form factor, primarily thanks to the f/2.0. I'd love to see what you come up with when you do it.

[@Lux_brumalis_photography]

Nice Video! 👏

[@DesmondButler]

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it 😊

[@0palev]

Thank you Very much, I finally find how looks the menu in cameras with interval shooting 🌠

[@DesmondButler]

Glad I could help!

[@0palev]

@@DesmondButler one more question, what do you think about lens samyang 14mm 2,8 for night shots?

[@DesmondButler]

@@0palev Great question! That is the exact lens I used in my five camera comparison last summer (mine is branded "Rokinon", but they are the exact same fabricator). For the price, I don't think you can beat it for full frame lenses. It doesn't even stretch the stars at the edges as badly as you might expect from an inexpensive lens. Though, you will have to be patient with manually focusing every shot. If you want to see some sample images, you can check out that video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoDZg6Gch96eras

[@janoca]

Thank you so much for this video, it was really helpful!

[@DesmondButler]

I'm happy to hear that. Thanks for watching!

[@nnisargpatel]

I always prefer lightroom for my workflow but thanks for sharing this information i will try bridge. Appreciate your efforts

[@DesmondButler]

Lightroom is definitely the more popular program these days. Thanks for watching!

[@briangarcia3847]

Awesome tutorial! Did you use a 14mm or 16mm lens?

[@DesmondButler]

Thanks! The time-lapse featured in this video was actually shot using my Ronkinon 12mm APSC lens. I have also used the Rokinon 14mm full frame lens for other time-lapses you may see in my videos.

[@메드포스타MadForStar]

Hi, I also love ur tutorial. But my Milky Way photos were also taken in RAW, but in the bridge, it says I can not get them in the RAW file. Should I download adobe camera raw and try it?

[@DesmondButler]

This is the first I've heard of this issue. As long as Adobe Bridge and Adobe Photoshop are both installed, camera raw should be installed also, but double check. If you're using the latest version, it should be able to read any image format. It looks like you shoot with the a7 III, is that correct?

[@메드포스타MadForStar]

@DesmondButler I shot with A7RIV A, and I download adobe bridge like 3 days ago, so it means I'm new to Edit in here. I don't have photoshop, so do I need to also download Photoshop to make sure it work?

[@DesmondButler]

@@메드포스타MadForStar I did some research on this, and it appears that Adobe Camera Raw is no longer included with the Adobe Bridge free download. In order for the Camera Raw application to function, you have to have an Adobe Photoshop license. I don't know when this changed, but it looks like Adobe has been doing it this way for a few years. I apologize for causing confusion with that. If you ever do download and install Photoshop, Camera Raw will then work as shown in the video.

[@Attck.]

does the interval matter? does it have to be 1 sec?

[@DesmondButler]

It depends on the camera. What you really want is no space at all between shots, but a lot of cameras will already do that if you set it to 1 second, if the exposure time is longer than that.

[@Attck.]

@@DesmondButler so for instance I have my exposure set for 10 seconds, if I turn on interval shooting, it’ll just set the interval to 1? I’m shooting on a a73

[@DesmondButler]

@@Attck. You should be able to follow a similar process to what is shown with the a7R IV at 1:45 in this video. Set the seconds low (1 is best) so that the process will go more quickly, and set the number of images as high as you'd like your timelapse length to be.

[@ecobooster8298]

Actually, the interval is the exposure time + time to allow the camera to write the image before the next shot. This of course depends on the write speed of your card. For example, if your exposure is a 20 second exposure, I would set the interval to 23 seconds. This accounts for the 20 second shot +3 seconds for rhe camera to write the image to the card. Your camera will then take a shot every 23 seconds. You're not losing time. You're just allowing the image to be written to the card so your camera is not working so hard. It may over heat. Try it at home, see how long your camera needs to write the image. My nikon has a green light after each shot. Once the light turns off, I know the image has been recorded. But my card is not that fast so again, it really depends on the card. Hope this helps!!

[@DesmondButler]

@@ecobooster8298 That's only true when the buffer is full. When doing long exposures, that won't happen on a modern camera. My Sony a6500 from 2016 has never waited, it goes right to the next shot immediately for hours on end.

[@kalef1234]

Are you editing in 8-bit in Bridge? 💀

[@DesmondButler]

If your images are going to end up as JPEGs, the limit is already 8-bit. Most people watching this channel aren't running on an i9. Attempting to scrub through the footage with 16-bit TIFs or PNGs would crash most systems.