Create an open floor plan by removing a Load bearing wall

[@angelmosqueda9251]

Great video, very good explanation. Thanks

[@criconinvestments7723]

The top of 1 side wall is already shifting out. That particular area of the house has no trusses - only a roof. Any advice?

[@eduardo941]

Great video! How come the videos stop after a couple of them, this was very informative!

[@dexxgaming9519]

How much does it typically cost to have a local engineer determine if you can remove a wall or not ?

[@jbrady5979]

Could you achieve this with a smaller steel I beam? Why don’t more people use steal when recessing a beam vs. Using LVLs

[@Phillip.kaplan]

Hello, so the main purpose doing this task is the remove the wall and make a better space right?, If so. was that 2 supporting column on after picture. put on purpose for decorative purpose or was it necessary to put those to support the bearing ? thank you .

[@DOTCurrency]

how much would a project like this cost? how much difference between exposed and hidden beam?

[@levelengineering]

Varies on complexity, Colorado is kind of pricey as we have seen folks pay about 8K, hidden adds about 1K

[@12bbbk]

Nice video! What type of tension strap you used and how you connected it? Isn't beam in the way?

[@levelengineering]

Thanks 12bbbk! The flush beam and ceiling rafters are flush after installations are complete. Therefore flat MST straps from simpson work well. Center the strapping over the beam and get straps that extend at least 12 inches onto each rafter bottom side. This all should be done from the room side not the attic side.

[@12bbbk]

Thanks!!

[@johnrobinson2594]

what about in the crawlspace. any support needed where the beam rest on the end?

[@levelengineering]

Yes!! Good comment, our most common problem is improper revised load path to the foundation. There should be solid blocking all the way to the foundation and/or basement beams. If it's a beam check with an engineer, revised loading on a beam can be problematic to the beam. If end loads are big enough or the openings get beyond a certain point a new column and footing in the basement may be needed. Again check with a structural engineer to get specific advice for your project.

[@MrJoehorton]

Great explanation.

[@levelengineering]

Thank you Joe!

[@gdavis8588]

I can't tell in the video, but how is the tension strap installed?

[@levelengineering]

The flush beam and ceiling rafters are flush after installations are complete. Therefore flat MST straps from simpson work well. Center the strapping over the beam and get straps that extend at least 12 inches onto each rafter bottom side. This all should be done from the room side not the attic side.

[@justdrawinglines7922]

@@levelengineering I'm not sure what you mean by center the strapping over the beam... Is the strapping running underneath the joist/rafter ties from one side to the other? Is there any way to illustrate how the strapping is installed? Specifically, if it is a flush LVL that is 20" deep with 2x6 joists/rafter ties (offset), can the strapping run along the bottom?

[@ryanholtmann9013]

Is there any temporary supports you installed to prevent the rafters from pushing ln the exterior walls (rafter ties, collar ties) between the time you cut through the ceiling joists and the point where the straps were secured to reestablish tension? Or is it such a short amount of time, that's it's not such a big deal?

[@levelengineering]

Be careful here!!! Small houses without heavy roof loads can often be no problem. But check the outside walls for plumb before and after installation. Adjustments may be needed if they spread. Big rooms or working with tile roofs or Minnesota snow loads. Brace it a bunch!!! Check with your local engineer for advice BEFORE YOU START!

[@giles5285]

Great Video. I am wondering about what happens with the simple triangle framing (not a truss, number 7 on your chart in the video) when you cut the ceiling joists, do you need to put in some kind of temporary collar ties above to keep the triangle rigid until you get the beam in and the joist hangers on and Simpson strapping on?

[@levelengineering]

Thanks Giles. Be careful here!!! Small houses without heavy roof loads can often be no problem. But check the outside walls for plumb before and after installation. Adjustments may be needed if they spread. Big rooms or working with tile roofs or Minnesota snow loads. Brace it a bunch!!! Check with your local engineer for advice BEFORE YOU START!

[@daveblacken9819]

So the hidden beam design can only be used on single story homes and not 2 story homes?

[@levelengineering]

Great question Dave. The application of the hidden beam concepts can be utilized on multiple stories. The size of the beam changes as the additional loads are compensated for.

[@johnnunez192]

@@levelengineering Hello. I wanted to find out what was the length of the beam that you installed from support to support. Thank you.

[@altonnewton8900]

Thanks for the helpful explanation! One thing, how do you keep the exterior walls from collapsing outward when you cut the horizontal beams?

[@levelengineering]

Hi Alton, in this case, there are seldom forces that would exert pressure outward, the only reason for outward pressure would be a possible negative pressure during a high wind event. There are concerns here, however. the vertical forces of the ceiling are being handled by the beam downward. The lateral forces resisting wind is an issue to pay attention to. The connection of the beam to the exterior wall is a design element that we carefully consider.. often metal strapping is sufficiently provided by Simpson will suffice for these small single story homes. great question!

[@ngeorge787]

very informative

[@emelle1283]

Why is the temp load wall double beamed at the bottom and only single beam at the top? Can i use a single beam at the bottom too (i dont care about damaging the floor surface as its coming out after the ceiling beam goes in)

[@levelengineering]

Thanks Em. The double bottom plate is not really a structural reason for being implemented but rather ease of shimming. Once the wall is placed it can be placed fairly loose to prevent damaging finishes. Once the walls are in place shims can be driven between the plates to snug the wall up to support the load temporarily. These shims should be placed under each stud. After completion, reverse the order and remove shims first then remove the temporary walls.

[@kylem6066]

Great video, but wondering what the straps you used to provide lateral tension are called and who they are sold by?

[@levelengineering]

Hi Kyle. Simpson Strong-Tie provides the industries most common source.. the big do-it-yourself stores have them or lumber yards. Simpson MST model straps downward from the beam to the studs under the beam both sides for uplift is common for this solution.. horizontal LSTI-straps at the top plates is also wise.. Thank you.

[@kylem6066]

Hi Level Engineering, Thanks for your reply and clarifying for me.

[@kelometer3503]

How much should I expect to pay a local engineer to inspect my home to let me know if I can start demoing a wall or two

[@gwinndontrell]

Kelo Meter did you ever find out how much

[@levelengineering]

Under five hundred

[@levelengineering]

Under five hundred, thanks for being patience!

[@elizabethweaver2244]

800 bucks Florida….another 900 bucks for drawings and beam size!

[@CarlosJimenez-mw6fh]

@@levelengineering hi are you in south California

[@surfmarko]

watch at 1.5x - you're welcome

[@levelengineering]

Cheers :)

[@vincen.3590]

I don't get with this open space concept. Why would you want your kitchen be in the same room as your living room. I guess some people like the smell, noise, and smoke from cooking to be in the living room.😅

[@bradgoertz3930]

And why not turn off the radio in the background? Unwatchable.

[@levelengineering]

Gotta love coffee shop filming. Thanks for your feedback Brad :)

[@alohatigers1199]

The radio doesn’t affect what you SEE. It has nothing to do with the video so there’s no problem with that.