Create Perfect 3D Resin Prints by Finding the Optimal Layer Exposure Time

[@sirayatech2]

We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.

[@beefknuckles]

Love your resins

[@heramann6916]

Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet

[@JBGecko13yt]

I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.

[@timenotspaceproduction]

siraya tech leading the industry :)

[@Jauphrey]

I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!

[@Core-Electronics]

Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊

[@jammywesty91]

Your channel is a gold mine! Speaking as an ex-teacher, you have the gift.

[@logantbirch]

I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!

[@Core-Electronics]

Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊

[@JD-sb7mq]

same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!

[@frankblack7685]

As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.

[@Core-Electronics]

Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊

[@edwinbarreto58]

Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you

[@Core-Electronics]

So glad you dig it 😊!

[@aberodriguez4149]

Waiting to get all my safety gear and needed post op tools, in the mean time I am gathering as much information in resin printing and this video was very informative and great to learn from. Thank you very much for your time and information.

[@dougcraven47]

So useful and so organized. Many KZbinrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.

[@Core-Electronics]

Cheers champ! 😄

[@lordraxta]

i´m a total noob in resin printing here my printer arrives in 3 more days and this is the BEST explanation i´ve seen so far congrats

[@jhkkkk6576]

Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.

[@pongchilis6884]

I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..

[@RobBob555]

I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌

[@Core-Electronics]

Happy to hear that!

[@dhaniels83]

all the information here is gold jerry, gold!

[@Core-Electronics]

[@mjustice34]

Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.

[@peacekper]

Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.

[@Core-Electronics]

Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.

[@CadianColors]

As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!

[@andrefreitas3907]

Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips

[@PennysPitstop]

I know this is an old video for you guys, but having just bought a Mars 4 Ultra last week I have just found it. Ive been doing som reasonable prints on the printer but the bottom layer has been welded to the build plate and there are some inaccuracies. Thankfully the company who supplies my miniatures builds them on a bed of supports on a raft. So, decided to dial in new settings and try it out, looked at you tube videos and finally found this and THANK you so very much. My original settings were something like 2.5 exposure, 20 seconds bottom layer. I knew both settings needed changing, but have been advised to change only one at a time. Downloaded exposure test and got far more posts than voids. CHanged exposure to 1 and got 13 holes and 13 voids. I know I can do better but thats a good result. Im currently doing my third print with 1 and 15, but having looked at your video Im expecting it to not be perfect as you suggest a bottom exposure of 10 times the normal. Now Ive found my normal exposure I can expact the bottom exposure to be closer to 10. I really am not sure if Id be able to even make it this far without your help. Thanks to all involved

[@Core-Electronics]

No worries! We are just glad that people are making use of these, and thank you for the kind words!

[@michaelhollanshed5729]

EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!

[@TristynRusselo]

I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.

[@richarddespres8011]

Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.

[@Core-Electronics]

My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊

[@noviceartisan]

Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!

[@kevincantrell6295]

This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.

[@Core-Electronics]

Thats all good mate 😄

[@andregrondin1204]

great video and lot of great information and very well explained

[@Peter-DOC-Docter]

The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)

[@killiandw]

I struggle with the cones could never get them perfect

[@Peter-DOC-Docter]

@killiandw Also depends on the resin of course, state of you FEP and mostly constant temperature.

[@patrickboon4163]

As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable

[@dukeshaver199]

Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.

[@Core-Electronics]

Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim

[@scpfoundation6195]

About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.

[@bertsteenbergen6729]

Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use

[@steve22ss]

This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.

[@Core-Electronics]

😊😊 Cheers mate!

[@linassapnagis2174]

WOW! Impresive information

[@NorthernLightSouth]

Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!

[@Core-Electronics]

My pleasure 😀

[@bayuocta7042]

Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.

[@dannydaniel138]

Great video! It's just what I needed.

[@Sparky5]

I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.

[@Core-Electronics]

Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?

[@CommonTater100]

holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!

[@Core-Electronics]

Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄

[@frankdearr2772]

great, thanks for sharing 👍

[@stormboy8544]

You made it so clear and easy to understand. Just got yourself a subscriber. Looking forward to watching more of your videos

[@Core-Electronics]

Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!

[@xphoenixrising]

This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.

[@Core-Electronics]

Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models

[@ethans3113]

I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit

[@chriswiese1348]

I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!

[@franciscoaraya9966]

Thank you Tim, extremely helpful video!

[@Labyrnthdom]

Excellent share !!

[@saintguardian3639]

Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.

[@TheMrlilcreepz]

Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?

[@atomant8800]

im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!

[@Core-Electronics]

Glad it helped!

[@RookieRay]

Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?

[@RestingGlitchFace]

Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow

[@ET-gr9yw]

The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer

[@Core-Electronics]

There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.

[@ashdotpy]

So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!

[@101pcgamer]

are there any other settings that needs to be tested and changed as well? as ecposure time

[@xTreme.Power.]

there was no way to generate multiple exposure in one file directly ? to avoir print and clean between every timer ?

[@Core-Electronics]

UV Tools is your port of call - github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/releases When set up correctly and started this will run multiple test across your whole print platform.

[@xTreme.Power.]

@@Core-Electronics thanks , will try ☺️

[@muratyucelmusic]

hello i have a question. I am using Uniz slash 2 brand printer. In the models I print, it prints the first 3 layers with a high exposure time (15) and then prints it at the exposure time you specify. I don't know why, I think it's because it sticks well to the plate. Anyway, if I come to my question, I have 1 rod and 1 hole, I press appropriate sizes for this rod to pass through this hole, but it is smaller than it should be crazy. This happens on all my models. If there is a socket or range in the first 3 layers, this is problematic. How can I solve this problem? sometimes there are very simple models and I don't need to put support. So if I reduce the exposure time of the first 3 layers from 15 seconds to 3 seconds, will it not stick to the plate, what should I do?

[@Core-Electronics]

I'm pretty sure I understand. Dimensional Accuracy can be problematic if your bottom exposure layers are part of the final model. The longer curing time of the bottom layers end up making the final piece dimensionally larger than in section where the normal exposure time is used. You could support the whole model so that any part of the final model is above the bottom exposure layers. You could use 3rd party software to eliminate 'Elephants Foot' (what this problem is commonly called) from your resin prints. Another option (which I'd recommend to you) since your models do not require supports is to print the whole design with that 15 second exposure time. It will take longer to 3D print but will be dimensionally consistent across the whole design. Then you can measure it, if slightly too big or small, scale the CAD model inside your slicing software appropriate and print yourself a winner. Hopefully I understood correctly and this will help 😊

[@Guardian_Arias]

After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........

[@Core-Electronics]

Best of luck!

[@bhaelhalelthebastard6014]

Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.

[@Core-Electronics]

Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.

[@hexatonik]

What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin

[@donniem7979]

Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?

[@popilirol]

Hi, according to your research and experience, what 3D resin printer is the closest in details and smoothness to injection molds?

[@Drg666999]

extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !

[@Core-Electronics]

My pleasure mate 😊

[@elmaster4938]

Man !!! You're great, now I learned a lot and I printed the matrix and the rook, after many tests I finally found the right parameters and I feel so happy, so now I'll print scale cars cause I'm a scale modeler, it'll take time each print but it'll be perfect thanks to your video and easy explaining.., greetings from Mexico !! You're great !!

[@ragathielcross2179]

Exactly where is the validation matrix located in the description?

[@ragathielcross2179]

AH! Never mind the download is not in the description, there is a link to tutorial website that has the download link located there.

[@davidc3150]

Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure? Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please? Thanks again for all your wisdom

[@Core-Electronics]

I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.

[@NokChidchanok]

Good info

[@blakeguyan2662]

How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?

[@radiomuffin]

Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.

[@MKUMBRA]

the. way. he speaks. gives. me. ANXIETY

[@watsonstudios]

Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.

[@jpreculeau]

Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.

[@Core-Electronics]

Cheers mate 😊

[@jellysandjamz250]

Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?

[@AslanAtreyu]

Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?

[@101pcgamer]

do you need to scaled to fit build plate? with Validation_Matrix

[@Abdulreviews]

Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax

[@celtos255]

i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.

[@Core-Electronics]

Happy days 😊!

[@zdenekholy2634]

Great video ... thank you.

[@Core-Electronics]

Glad you liked it!

[@RACKSO99]

Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.

[@joaquinordoqui111]

Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D

[@naughtynaresh6135]

Sir the layer is not printing on the print bed suddenly can you tell me what is the problem

[@Mahdi_b_2001]

Hi.I print the space keycap with Anycubic x6ks, but after a day it bends and arcs. What should I do? (The key cap has a surface area of 2 mm and is thin! and bends)

[@dyagni6443]

Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.

[@joninorth3585]

nice but can´t find the Rook Calibration Chess Piece anywhere anymore?

[@Core-Electronics]

Hey buddy, we have just migrated to a New Updated Website and just ironing out the niggly, teething issues. Models will be available at the bottom of the full article very soon. Until then here is a very similar Rook Test Piece - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3962430

[@pedrosoares9603]

Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.

[@Core-Electronics]

Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo. I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!

[@pedrosoares9603]

@@Core-Electronics thank you. I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.

[@Pendragon-dnd]

I appreciate this dawg!

[@cwtjones]

hi, do we need to adjust the exposure time for different layer height? say, 0.03mm, vs 0.05mm.

[@HotCarTrack]

What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.

[@Core-Electronics]

Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.

[@HotCarTrack]

@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.

[@gitruih]

Thanks for the video. Question from a completely new user- should I cure every test before checking or just washj them?

[@Core-Electronics]

Just from Tim's notes: "Each piece after printed was then washed in a Creality Wash and Cure Station for 5 minutes at slow wash speed. Then, after drying off overnight with the important side facing up, each piece was cured for 2 minutes on both sides twice (for a total of 8 minutes altogether)."

[@lancephelps3333]

Does this work on Formlabs printers

[@Core-Electronics]

Formlabs Printers use a Laser to do the initial cure instead of a Monoscreen and a UV Projector. So instead of doing the whole layer in one go it need to go across all the surfaces to be cured with it's thin laser. I presume there are settings to determine how long/amount of time the laser lingers over the parts being cured. Nailing that would be the equivalent of nailing exposure time for DLP printing.

[@nonchip]

interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.

[@Core-Electronics]

Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)

[@Figures-Sale]

which the best use number 1.7 or 3 s?

[@Core-Electronics]

As a general rule for Normal Layer Exposure Time use 0.5-5 seconds for Monochrome Screen 3DPrinters and 2-20 seconds for RGB Screen 3D Printers. For the Resin-Printer Combo in this guide I found 1.7 Seconds was the best Normal Layer Exposure. This was with a Monochrone Screen Printer.

[@kazu_thorn]

Ohhhh I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle

[@tonydiazist]

Can someone help me?? Okay so i go the matrix/infinity thing to almost touch how do I fine tune it so there's more detail? Do i need less exposure? More? Also the holes on mine are still somehow pooling up after the 2nd one how do I fix that??? I printed a dummy model to see if the settings were good and they sorta were the model just lacks detail (it's a 4k printer) so idk what to do

[@Core-Electronics]

If your loosing details then exposure can be dialed back. That would explain why your holes are pooling up too on your exposure test matrix. Once set perfect any resin printer can produce incredible results.

[@tonydiazist]

@@Core-Electronics yeah i dialed them back a bit and saw some improvement. How ever I stumbled into another problem i noticed some models came out sticky after curing.... Can I fix this issue or can I just prime/ paint over the issu

[@Core-Electronics]

Definitely continue curing the models until they are no longer sticky. If your concerned about warping then a coat of paint will definitely seal them up.

[@3lcost3]

Does it matter it I don't cure the matrixes? I'm checking them fresh out of the printer and I've tried several settings for exposure and the right bottom end of the bars don't materialize

[@Core-Electronics]

There are some dimensional changes that occur when you cure models so to get the best possible understanding I would recommend curing the pieces. Doing so also means you can handle the printed parts without gloves.

[@oljobo]

Just Brilliant 👍🥰

[@Core-Electronics]

Big love 💖

[@stianbulandlie2711]

I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time

[@onemansvideos2134]

So question...so you cab adjust exposure time on a file at the machine so if the print came out a lil strange so instead of making a new file I can adjust it right there? Creality halot mage owner here

[@kumada84]

That seems like it should work. Once you figure out the best exposure time, I would definitely slice another file with that exposure time just to make sure the result matches.

[@terryip2636]

the website is down, hope you can fix and reupload the file, it's super useful!

[@Core-Electronics]

Back and fully operational 😊 thanks for the kind words

[@terryip2636]

Got it!

[@wheelsndealz]

You have to do those for every color resin? I'm trying to use black resin and it won't stick to the plate.

[@Core-Electronics]

Different colour resins will have different absorption rates, white reflects light more then black so exposure times may vary, but I would doubt it would be significant enough to cause a print failure if you're not experiencing issues with other colours. Though the biggest difference you will find is between transparent resins and opaque ones. Perhaps troubleshoot a few other issues that can cause adhesion problems, like bed levelling, FEP wear and tear or any cured resin stuck to the FEP from a previous print

[@wheelsndealz]

@@Core-Electronics thanks for responding. It's a brand new fep. So no damage. The bed is a brand new wham bam flex plate. Completely clean both after each failure. Every other color works fine. Tried the black with the standard test settings that came with any cubic. Then looked up and found a chart for any cubic showing different exposure settings and tried that. The black resin is the only one that won't stick to the plate. Also wasn't sticking to the plain plate but the white did. Have zeroed it multiple times to make sure. Both the paper way and directly on the fep, (forget the name of that method). If there's any more tips or tricks please let me know. I've given up on the black resin for now just so I can go back to printing something at least.

[@nicolasbreuermd9386]

as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??

[@Core-Electronics]

Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132

[@NerdLegionInc]

Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.

[@GBFishhhs]

Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...

[@Core-Electronics]

Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times. If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.

[@NerdLegionInc]

@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.

[@3Dprintingshorts]

very informative, good job keep it up

[@Core-Electronics]

Cheers mate 😊 will do my best

[@brightsunlight335]

After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?

[@Core-Electronics]

Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level. Hope that helps 😊

[@WTF_BBQ]

I bought my resin 3D printer with the expectation that it is more accurate than FDM printers for making functional parts. I was very disappointed that things wouldn't fit properly. In fact, they don't fit at all. I will try these calibration methods and see if it'll improve ....

[@Core-Electronics]

You'll be able to produce functional parts, just be aware each time you use a different resin it will affect Dimensional Accuracy. Run off a couple of Dimensional calibration prints to nail it. Produce a XYZ Cube which is perfectly 20x20x20mm and you'll be good to go. If too small/big scale up/down in your slicing software. STL Link to Cube - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Then when you are producing perfect XYZ Cubes start printing your functional parts, making sure to scale the component to the same amount.

[@PhilXavierSierraJones]

I'm a little bit confused about the holes on the left side; Is it supposed to go all the way through, or is it supposed to be plugged up half-way through as if there's a backing behind the holes?

[@Core-Electronics]

What you are observing is the resulting model created from Bottom Exposure Times VS Normal Exposure Times. The Bottom Exposure times wont keep the model design perfectly dimensionally accurate but will enable model adhering to the build platform. So don't focus your keen eye on the first 4 layers that are Bottom Exposure Time, we're more interested in the result from Normal Exposure Times (which present themselves at higher layers)