CREATING A FALL ON A FLAT ROOF - Cutting Tapered Firrings

Another quick video looking the final detail of the flat roof, getting the tapered firring strips cut and installed. All of the strips were placed directly over/inline with roof timbers (except one), if they were all perpendicular then it would have been better to taper 70-35 rather than 35-0.
This video gives an overview of the whole flat roof build - • BUILDING THE FLAT ROOF...
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[@ulsterrich4213]

Mate you don’t know how much of a help this is foe . Great video cheers 🍻

[@tonitaylor5485]

Like that you do these breakdowns

[@markhep]

Looking good so far mate 👍👍👍

[@ridgmont61]

I love the way the camera bounces with every hit of the nail gun.

[@MidnightAmratha]

I noticed one of those boards showed signs of forced growth, i.e. Thick year rings, that is normally a sign of weaker structural cohesiveness in the fibres and once the board dries up it will shrink a lot more even in the longitudinal direction, just something to keep in mind when checking wood in the shops.

[@-XaviM]

Tomorrow I have to do something similar on a roof and I'm going to do it differently but you gave me a great idea, thank you very much

[@DorkyThorpy]

WHat's your idea? :-)

[@felixreali7101]

you're almost there on this one :-)

[@kevinstephenson3859]

I was going to do the same technique for a low slope (flat) roof and abandoned it. The thin ends of the furring strips are going to snap like toothpicks when someone walks on it after it dries out. I instead went with bevel planed joists (also sistered for strength on last few shortest joists) with some matching tapered blocking every 4' (~1M).

[@Carl-yu6uw]

Do you mention the fall or gradient you chose to use here? 1 in 40, or 1 in 80 perhaps? Thanks.

[@AminAmin22]

Hi mate, I'm looking to start my build of a shed but I don't think I can accurately cut these firing strips with my equipment. I was thinking to just do birds mouth cuts into my rafters, or possibly even add an additional top plate to one side 🤔. What you reckon?

[@Tsamados]

This looks great! I have to try and put a fall on a flat roof that I recently had redone (unfortunately the cowboys who did it never bothered and now water is pooling in the middle). Do you think it's possible to pitch it without removing the roof? For instance by somehow squeezing in wedges between the joists and the boards above them? Thanks.

[@aaron-hk8zg]

What was the fall/ratio you put on the furrings

[@sreval]

Depending on how you are installing the roof glazing, presumably you are putting a double glazed unit in there !? Look at getting the unit made with a step at bottom edge to aid with water / snow run off ! Keep up with the excellent vids !!

[@TheRestorationCouple]

It’s a Alu framed dg unit with overhang and drip edge. 👍

[@sreval]

@@TheRestorationCouple Sounds good .......Merry Christmas !

[@lissa4306]

Cant strips against wall to help w/drainage?

[@MrGlenfraser]

I noticed a couple of times some steam in that area, I have some from my boiler downstairs go up and I have had it go into the roof and hit my felt and cause some droplets in the loft. Have you got to move your outlet so it goes past the roof??? The wind if its in the right direction causes me the issue I have noticed. I hope that all makes some sort of sense.

[@TheRestorationCouple]

Swapping to a vertical flu so will be up away from the new porch. 👍

[@MrGlenfraser]

@@TheRestorationCouple ​ Ace....good work as always. I put in a flitch beam 3.9m long the other day. Had to take it apart to lift it in the house on me own. 1 x 47x175mm then a 10mm x 150mm plate another 47mm x 175mm then another 10mm x 150mm plate and a final 47mm x 175mm. Had to put it on 2 steels I put in a few weeks back. All good fun. Don't you just love a bit of DIY...

[@grahamconvery1930]

Re your comment on the wood weight. I noticed that you were using C16 grade timber. This if I Recall is Construction grade & strength timber. The Wicks I doubt is the same, hence the weight difference.

[@-_James_-]

C16 is still fairly low grade wood though. All construction wood here (Norway) is C24, and I think C30 or above is generally recommended for ceiling joists.

[@TheRestorationCouple]

You are correct, the two better sections were c24 whereas Wickes was c16. Everything else except the little stud wall is c24.

[@Simon78]

6:53 what’s the smoke/steam/foggy looking mist rising there‽ I saw it in the building the roof vid too... I just imagine a large steaming cup of tea off camera 😆

[@TheRestorationCouple]

Boiler flue rather than a brew. 🙄

[@johnmac38]

🤟

[@hanswiegand6498]

I live how it’s called “the restoration couple” and he’s doing all the work.

[@RatchetMonkey]

To be fair his other half is probably looking after the kids, making food, cleaning the house....

[@Tom-zl2wk]

Good stuff bud 👍 what is youre main trade if you have one? Or complete DIY? And are you selling the house once this is all done?

[@TheRestorationCouple]

All DIY, no trades.

[@Tom-zl2wk]

@@TheRestorationCouple awesome good stuff

[@antonymartelette7693]

Top tastic

[@shermansquires3979]

Thats how I did them, and they turned out shite, with the track saw...