Creating Insoles, the "Backbone" of Handmade Bespoke Shoes

[@RaoulKunz1]

"Die Brandsohle ist die Seele jeden Schuhs." - "The Insole is the soul of every shoe." - Old German bespoke shoemaker saying Best regards Raoul G. Kunz

[@spaghettiking7312]

This is a random request, but I really appreciated your recent video on the modern status of White Tie. Given that I don't hear it mentioned or promoted much, for those who are interested, I was wondering if Raphael would consider a Get Ready With Me video involving White Tie, similar to one Preston made for Black Tie. There are a lot of functions and details about it which not a lot of people know about, and I haven't really found a video of this subject online. Thanks for what you do!

[@gentlemansgazette]

Thank you for your support! Typically speaking, Raphael dressing in his white tie ensemble is similar to putting on a suit of armor! We might be able to do something, so we'll call this idea a maybe - thanks for the suggestion! 🎩

[@PunCala]

This series is your best. I have a very special interest in it because I am making my own shoes at the moment, for the first time ever. I am currently in the same phase as this video, and I have to say that some of the things you've said in the series have really clarified things for me. For example, I have read and watched countless tutorials on shoemaking but none told me what the glassing is used for. I also found it extremely helpful to hear some of the reasoning she has behind her choices, as I can apply some of them to my work. The thing I look forward to in the next video is to see how she keeps the tension in the upper leather without punching through the insole.

[@George_Gogiashvili]

Hi Raphael. Just want to say, that as subscriber I am very thankful to you and to your crew (especially to you and Preston) for giving us so much knowledge and information. You are the best in your field, no one even comes close. Now, with your help, even I can teach to others what is real genttlleman's look, behavior and appearance. Vintage fashion is timelless because of it's beauty, history and cultural role. It's a shame, that still not all people have even a little clue of such things... Wish to say good luck to you and to all your crew ❤️

[@gentlemansgazette]

Thank you for your support!🙂

[@didamnesia3575]

Bought a pair of shell cordovan AE Leeds on ebay for 130$... someone had spilled black shoe polish on the inside all the way towards the toes. After a few hours of cleaning it out I ordered a new pair of saphir insoles to put over the top of the old ones. If that doesn't work I'll have to take them in to be cleaned out, or spend about 10 hours scrubbing it out.

[@diavalus]

Love this series! And I love that you give plenty of details. Can’t wait for the next episode

[@occultstainedglass1752]

I am very surprised that you got a pair of Square Toed Bespoke shoes, when I've heard you speak discouragingly about them in many other videos. I am somewhat new to better dressing, but from what I understand, they are seen as "cheaper" or of a short lived trend. Great video, though! Thank you for helping me be a more dapper dresser and feel better about myself!

[@philliph87]

These ones are chisel toed, which is slightly square at the front but far more refined along the edges than regular square toed shoes are.

[@occultstainedglass1752]

@@philliph87 Question: I have a pair of Belvedere's Bay Bridge shoes that I got from Men's Wearhouse ($130) that appear to be square toed, they look just the same shape, how do I tell the difference? Thank you for any info, good sir!

[@philliph87]

@@occultstainedglass1752 The main thing is the width of the toe box. A chisel toe has curving edges that gradually narrow to a refined square shape. Square toed shoes are much wider throughout and don’t narrow as much, so they look much blockier and they visually shorten your foot. In the case of your shoes I would say they’re on the squarer side since the toe is a bit wider.

[@occultstainedglass1752]

@@philliph87 Thank you for the detailed explanation! Dressing more classic and stylish has become a new obsession of mine and I appreciate learning from people who understand the nuances. The Gentleman's Gazette has been a fountain of knowledge that I enjoy drinking from and deepening my understanding of the subject. Much respect to you, good sir!

[@Rudl1044]

Your favourite cake must be Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake)! Thanks for this wunderful series, I'm looking forward to collect my third pair of bespoke shoes right before christmas!

[@frankmartinez4856]

No wonder these shoes are so expensive! They’re Masterpieces 😊🎉❤

[@marioe6696]

@1:47 Amara is so cute with her pronunciation. She did a whole lot better than me.

[@shannonberr2734]

Thank you

[@didamnesia3575]

I'll ask... what is Raphael's favorite cake?

[@ondrejdolnicek865]

Why did men stoped wear furs? Could you make video about furs in menwear? I think its interesting topic for upcoming winter season. Thank you for response, Andrew

[@soodalhandle]

Hello I always enjoy your videos. I have a question about reversible coats. I'm currently considering getting one from chrysalis made out of wool/cotton on each side. I watched your overcoats videos but there were no opinions about reveribles. Do you recommend getting one or just a regular coat? Sorry my question is irrelevant to this video. Thank you for great contents always.

[@nanno307]

I hope you gentlemen could make a video about braces/suspenders.

[@jamaalmaddox5145]

Was wondering is there a particular store that you would recommend for someone looking to buy pleated dress pants? I have no thighs and seat. I can’t do the flat front pants.

[@c.w.9615]

Why is the video image over exposed? Can the contrast be adjusted? Adjust the lighting? Things I think about watching any Gentleman's Gazette video.

[@gentlemansgazette]

Thanks for bringing it to our attention! Always trying to be better 🙂

[@thomasbeckett1245]

Funny I copy a shape I leave in a previous worn insole. So that I’m using tried and true. The imprint left of the foot. Copies of original is always practical

[@SpamMouse]

I fear when I get to the point of talking to a bespoke creator of shoes I will meet the retort: "You want what?" 🤨! 👞👞

[@Mrevans124]

Hey Raphael

[@StalkyMcStalker]

This might be me just being Picky. . . And even though the "Swearing" isnt really swearing. i myself still feel like itd feel more professional without any form of swearing. Not that big of a deal though

[@gentlemansgazette]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@justint2057]

0:24 without what now? 🥴

[@h.s.w.5760]

I do not believe I am doing the subscribers an injustice when I say that most are neither able nor willing to purchase bespoke shoes. The shoe is a tool of utility; until the craftsmen again charge reasonable rates for commissions, most would save the substantive cash for the haberdasher or tailor.

[@gentlemansgazette]

It all comes down to what you value. If you want a pair of bespoke shoes, then you'll find a way to make it happen. At the same time, if people aren't willing to purchase bespoke shoes, then there are many great ready-to-wear options out there.

[@SpamMouse]

There are people that follow this channel across the whole spectrum of shoe buyers, while this might be considered as a buying guide beyond average-reach by some others will see it in the context of wider education as well as what the next step might be. I enclose a voucher to redeem 20 minutes of lost time. 🕰