Crimp Harder Without Training: Advanced Techniques!

[@00Platypus00]

Got it. Condition the skin of my hips, decelerate my grip versatility, and sand down holds to improve crimps.

[@HourRomanticist]

Make sure to chip in jugs on your gyms rock wall

[@jfireclimbing]

A couple thoughts: - I love the emphasis on technique in a "how to crimp" video. Bravo Lattice. Good grip work starts with body positioning that reduces the need for grip. - Curling into the hold can also cause extra skin damage. Be thoughtful about how you initiate contact. You want a lot of surface area on the part of the hold you'll use through most of the movement, but you don't want a lot of surface area on the hold while you adjust your grip. That's how you mess your skin up. - Sometimes, you'll want to look for the part of the hold with the most friction and bias it towards the strongest part of your fingers. Especially outside, holds are not uniform. Surface area is not everything. Connecting force production to best point of friction is king. Don't assume the back of the hold is where you want your finger tips. - Similarly, keep in mind as your body moves upward, the attack angle you have on a crimp will change. Skin-wise it's better to consciously adjust your grip if you can, in stages, rather than slowly dragging your fingers across the hold as you move up. Often for this reason you'll want your finger tips on the edge of a crimp when you grab it from below, so that you can roll on to it as you move past it without messing your skin up. - Full crimping: because the thumb is so much shorter and attaches at the base of the palm, this also puts the MCP in more flexion and the wrist in extension, functionally increasing the leverage of the entire grip. This is also part of why it's risky on the pulleys. - Learning/training to flex at the MCP and extend at the wrist while crimping is INCREDIBLY useful whether you use your thumb ("full crimp") or not. This requires a very long training timeline but it's mega for being able to position the body while crimping. - To get good at small holds if you already have a lot of recruitment in max hang style tests (mentioned around 5:00) I suggest climbing in a "wall crawl" or "low gear" style with the smallest holds you can move slowly on and big, big footholds. Just staying on the wall for 30-60 seconds and moving with lots of control, like a tractor going uphill. 3-4 reps at the start of a bouldering session with tons of rest between reps is where I would start. This gives you an opportunity to do tons of that "slow things down" style practice without a lot of risk. Good stuff, cool to see how much your guys' video team has evolved.

[@mattwilliams6367]

any suggestions for training to flex at the MCP and extend the wrist? just climb on crimps more?

[@jfireclimbing]

@@mattwilliams6367 You can emphasize the MCP in your pickups or hangs. Drop the weight accordingly at first as it may be novel. But practice on the wall is 👑

[@LatticeTraining]

Extra tips from a master, thanks Jesse!

[@AusVersehen]

Yes, I am one of those weak hand warriors

[@LatticeTraining]

Same here! But I'm slowly changing that.

[@Destabilizator]

I'm very strong hand/grip warrior and it doesn't matter without balancing it with endurance to keep the force flowing :-)

[@labesace5050]

I'm a bit skeptical about advising to prioritize heels over toes. It's true that heels are an extremely powerful technique when the situation is right, and they are very useful to suck your hips in, but I see too many people who climb mostly indoors and learn to use heels even before their master the full potential of what they can do with the point of their foot. Knowing how to position precisely the toe, trust the friction and build body tension with poor footholds is an underestimated skill, and much more versatile than heels, that are like a more specific weapon in my opinion (it also requires relatively specific strengths like flexibility and powerful hamstrings)

[@LatticeTraining]

Yep, all this is true. But I don't think I said heels should be prioritized over toes. Simply that rocking onto a heel gives you a mechanical advantage compared to rocking onto a toe. So it must be considered. This isn't to say there aren't countless possible situations where a toe is better. Rocking onto a heel can 'lock you in' in really well but then also limit your movement afterwards.

[@slapthesloper]

I got way better with my heels before my toes were ever useful, few years of board climbing later my toes have definitely caught up but still any given foot big enough for my heel can always take a significant more weight than my toe just because it can let you sit lower under a hold and is literally a foot closer to your center of mass

[@petergbeal]

@@LatticeTraining It's also important to remember that heelhook rockovers are a prime situation for knee injuries and should be carefully considered with that in mind

[@Mendokusai99]

I just came from a session thinking that I need to work on crimps. Thanks for this!

[@LatticeTraining]

Happy to help!

[@chip6527]

Incredible video! Such great tips explained so well, thank you!

[@rachellmichelleyoga]

Such awesome tips! Sometimes I think I’m doing most things efficiently but my pinky finger strength and mobility is so weak. I feel like it really holds me back from leveling up my crimp game.

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks! Pinky strength is especially important for full crimping.

[@jerm381]

Watched this video in the morning and the deceleration tip helped me send my project :) thanks for the help! 🎉

[@LatticeTraining]

Love this! Great work on the send!

[@hj40]

This video feels inspired by Nate Drolet. Some good tips there. Thanks

[@LatticeTraining]

The skin stretch tip is, good spot! We've always packed our fingers into incut crimps because of skin stretch but I had not seen it described as well and simply as Nate put it.

[@Chris-kh5mt]

Could you make a video about how to prepare and do highballs outside (bouldering) without injuring yourself. Like techniques and things to look for.

[@sam-q4m1f]

This was sick tbf new to climbing and will defo give those a go

[@AlexGalvezz]

Awesome video

[@tadeasulrich2946]

awesome, great attention for detail and movement skills. thanks

[@LatticeTraining]

Glad you liked it!

[@ScottWilton]

Good tips! But please don't use white text over a gray background, the low contrast makes it very hard to read!

[@spspaceboy]

I thought I'd heard that static stretches reduce short term flexibility?

[@martinvalek7219]

yes.. 5) Nails not long, but also not very short. Long enough to support skin on small edges. stright end of nails, not arch.

[@LatticeTraining]

I heard this tip on an Ondra video. He also suggested you could use nail varnish/polish strengthen the nail.

[@oleshikaru]

i always stretch my hips before climbing by going into the splits. i feel like a knob head while doing it since i see no one else warming up like that, but it helps i think haha. if you are trying the technique of pushing your hips as close to the wall, and you still cant catch that crimp, is the solution to just work on your finger strength then?

[@LatticeTraining]

Keep stretching. Everyone else is doing it wrong! If you think it might be finger strength, don't guess, we have a free testing app and data model on our website. Google "My Fingers - Free Assessment". We also sell (it's really cheap IMO) a more comprehensive assessment that will look at other strength metrics.

[@FountaenBlu]

Question about the "Don't move higher than you need to be / catch holds with extension" point: isn't that quite situational? In particular, if a move requires me to stop significant momentum (that isn't directed straight down into the hold), wouldn't catching the hold with bent arms typically be easier?

[@LatticeTraining]

Yes, all of these techniques are very situational. I guess my assumption in this video is; if the hold is REALLY small (for me) then I am probably not jumping to it with a lot of momentum. I'll be looking for other solutions if possible. If I am able to jump to it, then the hold is probably not that small (for me).

[@tomrandall8348]

Really nice job Josh! 💪💪

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks 😁

[@FrankT-o3w]

Does anyone have the link to the full-crimping vid with Anna? I can't find it...

[@LatticeTraining]

The first one is Once Upon A Time - E9. The second one is "How hard is America's first 5.14c/8c+?" You should be able to search these on her channel.

[@elijahsheffler3738]

What’s the brand of the stone crimp?

[@ianwhitehead3086]

Skin Farmrz by @petraholds

[@LatticeTraining]

@petraholds

[@sisseloa7033]

f that. Buy Nature Climbing products if your even considering these.

[@StormofBytes]

I'm a little bit afraid of the fullcrimp... as a result I often climb with openhand/half crimp. So how can I exercise/train a fullcrimp propely? Just climb easy stuff fully crimped?

[@LatticeTraining]

Yes, start using it on easy climbs were you feel in more control. But it typically only works best on small holds. So maybe combine multiple climbs that allow you to use really big footholds. You can also train with a pick-up edge or hangboard and regulate the intensity really easily.

[@yeriperi]

thank you lattice training for making climbing more understandable

[@LatticeTraining]

No problem 😊

[@matthewontherocks]

Good summary

[@BeckySaifMusic]

Hello, I've been climbing at Depot Sheffield. This looks like Sheffield. I'm a DJ, and this is my music channel. I've also been live streaming my climbs. If I see you I'll say hello 👋

[@Tr33fiddy]

Concept 0.5 to crimping harder: be Will Bosi.

[@gambet1234]

"indoor skin" Have you tried rice bucket exercises with a 4.5 gallon pail of drywall compound? Have you ever scrubbed a few floor drains or vinyl flooring with degreaser?! Your hands can smell like lavender for 4 days. If they don't smell like lavender, you know you'll start sweating soon. Have you never dug a hole or raked leaves or chopped wood with a wooden handle on your tool? Rhino Skin is unnecessary nonsense. Build some hard work calluses, maybe? Calluses don't sweat. Bonus: you'll find a lot of muscles that you didn't know you still needed to work on.