Ep 17 - String it up! + acrylic neck plate fun |Building a Guitar from 42,000 Year Old Wood

[@neilwinkelmann8540]

Next-level confidence to position the bridge before final fitting of the neck.

[@markgordon4368]

There's little in life I find more pleasing than the smell of worked/ heated real perspex, I made no apology 😊

[@karlalton3170]

You make me laugh Ben 😂😂 , anybody else goes to the pub to chill out and you go and sit in a room full of wood 🤣Awesome dude 🤘🤘🤘

[@Slovy_]

When drilling plexi glass. Use an old drill bit and grind the sharp edges off the tip. Taper the bit or use a unibit. I used to drill windows for helicopters. Thats what we’d do. They’re come with a drill bit or we’d make them.

[@Dug6666666]

I was going to suggest a step (Unibit) drill as well. Their single cutting surface and straight flute stops them being pulled into the job. The way he did a pilot hole is not a good idea either, just makes it easier to grab when the point of the size drill has nothing to offer resistance against.

[@79elephantsgaming55]

Hi Ben, I love this series, your ability to bring out the beauty of both the wood and the instrument is amazing. I wanted to put up my hand and say that I too wish to smelt down scrap metal and make guitars out of the recovered material. I would love to chat more about what you could do to get that started and some fun videos to watch about how others have smelted down scrap for the fun of it. Also, Hand Tool Only Build when?!?!?

[@vancochran7344]

I have enjoyed watching your Kauri wood guitar being made! A friend of mine from the US made a fiddle from Kauri wood. He has made fiddles, acoustic guitars mandolins and even Ukes. When I first saw the fiddle finished. I was in Naperville, Illinois at a Bluegrass Festival. I was amazed by the fiddle. ( I do not play fiddle either). The price was very high, and I asked why? He told me about the wood. I began to understand how very special the Kauri wood was and is. He sold the fiddle a few years later to Rhinda Vincent of Ronda Vincent and the Rage. The cost was about 1/2 of what it was 3 years earlier. She bought it for use in recording only. The maker name is Martin Brunkalla from Manteo, Illinois.

[@Birkguitars]

There was a moment there when the facial expression suggested that the words "we have a..." would be followed by the word "problem". Much relief all round.

[@TomLeg]

I love that curly swamp-crap! Really nice! And I'm enjoying the rest of your process.

[@activese]

Gorgeous instrument, outstanding, thank God for no texture, burst, flames, relic, stains, colour, glitter, mate finish, etc, on this guitar build, just that natural, beautiful, outstanding wood, craftsmanship, care and attention. Cheers and congratulations to you Ben and the new proud owner.

[@cliffgraham283]

What a beautiful build Ben.. what a way to end a great series. Looking forward to the next one.

[@darrylflynn1400]

This has been the most fun and interesting build you have done as much as I don’t understand the fine details I’ve certainly enjoyed this

[@MIGHTYSIMM]

A well polished performance Ben. 🦘

[@danielpardejo3350]

What a ride and what a guitar!! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 congrats Ben!! You made something unique and incredible!!!

[@CrimsonCustomGuitars]

Thanks so much!!

[@grimmmstudios2367]

Wouldn't use Perspex (acrylic) for this application, too brittle. Polycarbonate would be a more durable solution. Recently cut and drilled 10mm perspex for a base for a handwired valve amp, drilled and countersunk the holes with bradpoint bits, and a standard countersink, but I know this will not be subject to the same stress as a neck plate, I would have used inset bushes for this guitar. Recessed plate is now a necessity.

[@sisterrock8614]

A guitar made of 42,000 year old wood really needs a nut and saddle made of 20,000 year old mammoth ivory.

[@ukestudio3002]

Great point ! Sound and look upgrade, for sure .

[@anthonydimatteo6259]

A plastic saddle and nut made of 200 million year old oil

[@crtified1001]

Its funny how, in some guitar circles, Kauri wood is known by its latin family name "agathis", and is thought of as a budget or less desirable tonewood. Personally I don't much subscribe to the whole tonewoods-in-electric-guitars debate (or snobbery, some may say!), and have worked with swamp kauri myself.

[@inthestudy]

@@crtified1001 I think there's some difference between the cheap agathis on a budget superstrat, and ancient swamp aged NZ agathis. But it also reflects on how different guitars are built and used. My first guitar was an agathis bodied Yamaha, and it was trash out of the box. The strap nuts constantly fell out, the pickup and neck pockets broke into each other and the brittle PE finish chunked off and crumpled into the wood as soon as look at it. The Alder and Poplar on my Squiers are much harder, so even though the routes are even more aggressive the alder bodies have survived with little more than a few dents for 23 years. My Yamaha barely survived one. If the agathis body was instead used for a Mustang body, with angled fit-routed cavities and much less empty space; and then finished with a less brittle finish that wouldn't shatter as easily, it would work better. Nothing to do with "tone" wood, everything to do with structural integrity.

[@crtified1001]

@@inthestudyYou note there's a range of variation or quality between the different types of agathis wood, and this is true. As I mentioned, I've worked with swamp kauri - I have a locally-sourced piece on my workbench as a guitar body right now, as I'm from NZ. And the fact is that the moniker "ancient swamp" doesn't automatically imbue any particularly notable qualities from a guitar body point-of-view, over and above "non ancient swamp" kauri. *A rare and particularly nice, figured specimen* of ancient swamp kauri can be pretty special, sure, as is the case with many species of guitar wood. But more commonly, I can source cheap, authentic (~US$50) "ancient swamp kauri" blanks that are quite pedestrian except in name, and which would be entirely indistinguishable to a layperson. This reasoning also applies to the "cheap superstrat agathis", as in fact that cheap superstrat agathis is used in a variety of superstrats ranging from the ultra-cheap to the signature-model virtuoso (e.g. Satriani, Bettencourt). All of which goes to show what a significant part reputation can play in our judgement of a guitar and its materials.

[@Craftlngo]

Perspex is prone to cracking, when pressure forces (like those caused by screws) are applied. The countersunk head screw may increase this danger. I'm not sure the Perspex is the right choice for the Neck Plate. But besides my concerns, the plate looks absolutely stunning with all the polishing done!

[@thenerktwins]

Yeah I don't know how you can tighten the neck to the body without destroying the plate he made

[@andrewj3372]

agreed. a polycarbonate would be a similar look but has much better stress properties than acrylic.

[@Craftlngo]

@@andrewj3372 I've worked with both. Polycarbonate has similar problems when its used in such a situation. What could probably work are ferrules that lead the forces from the Screwheads to the threads

[@timangus]

@@Craftlngo Hmm, are you sure it was polycarbonate that you used? It's a lot more "chewy" and doesn't crack easily if at all, in complete contrast to acrylic.

[@Craftlngo]

@@timangus true, it is not as brittle as perspex but like all plastics it tends to flow under stress. It deforms, can build cracks and it will losen the screw joint of neck and body in the long-term.

[@Walking_Death]

The way to finish the edges of Perspex is, wait for it... Flame polishing

[@barrychristian4050]

Vapour polishing is even better and would be able to do the countersinks as well, just doesn't sound as good as "burn it" lol

[@cheapskate8656]

I was actually wondering if the reason the polishing of the counter sunk holes worked by melting the perspex a little (rather than the compound).

[@bramweinreder2346]

Damn it, beat me to it. Let there be FIRE :)

[@Matt3DMaker]

Wouldn't flame polish something under tension. It introduces micro-fractures in the Acrylic

[@Walking_Death]

@@Matt3DMaker but it's fire 🔥🔥🔥

[@jamesfox7758]

Your attention to detail is so admirable. I am in a completely other field (cybersecurity), but I’ve learned a lot with this little glimpse into your amazing artistic creations.

[@harrisonandrew]

I like the idea of a Crimson logo being laser engraved on that acrylic plate. I absolutely love that guitar.

[@seanjennings20]

100%. If it was mine I’d be asking for it to have their logo on it instead of it being plain

[@STEELY2600]

Either that or Ben's sigil would be a nice touch

[@U014B]

I was thinking a kauri tree, but that's good, too.

[@seanjennings20]

@@U014B Yea that would be really cool as well. Just think it needs something on it

[@seanjennings20]

@@STEELY2600 That another great idea

[@CAGED1702]

Wow! When a perfectionist (yes, YOU Ben!) is about to finish a perfect guitar. Respect 👏

[@evasanders7327]

Nice job... I was sweating it myself when you strung that beauty up

[@cheapskate8656]

Looks beautiful. I dont like perspex for this application. Cracks easily and looks good for a short time but usually ends up getting scratched every time its touched.

[@markdavies2115]

Just stunning. If you're going with the perspex neck plate, might be a good idea to chuck a bag of 20 spare ones in the bag when you ship it.

[@jefferywarburton2116]

25

[@SloverOfTeuth]

I feel uncomfortable putting screws on acrylic if they are going to be under much pressure, worse into countersunk holes. I think he's created a no-win (loose neck or cracked acrylic) and I wonder if he will change his mind. All I can think of is stainless steel and getting it electropolished.

[@rasputinsbeard3899]

@@SloverOfTeuth Or at least a nice piece of brass.

[@SloverOfTeuth]

@@rasputinsbeard3899 The easiest material I guess, if he's happy with the aesthetics. I think he said the pickup will be a steel finish, hence my suggestion. It's harder work to shape stainless steel, but this is a convex shape which helps, so a bench grinder gets the rough cut fairly quickly, and maybe he'd take a detour into home electropolishing (🤣). I think brass would look good with that wood, and I'd maybe think of using a brass plate and changing to a brass pickup. One only has to consider why neck plates are used in the first place, and why we usually make load-spreading washers/plates out of metal.

[@jonkerr2050]

I agree. I worked with plastic for a long time in a previous career. That shits gonna snap the first time the owner touches one of those screws. Personally I like to omit the neck plate entirely and go with counter sunk metal ferrules sank into the body. I do like his idea of the threaded bushings and using actual bolts instead of wood screws. That’s in my plans for my next build.

[@davidbrierly2453]

I'm from New Zealand, and absolutely love watching this build take place. Looking fantastic 🤩

[@adamdutton9922]

The gloss and the colour scream the ‘70s to me in the best possible way. Like it would be a young Cat Stevens acoustasonic. I’m not sure why; Not that it matters - I LOVE IT.

[@WoolfordCraftEndeavours]

Ben you are an enabler! thank you

[@Cliff-Evans]

Etch the back side of the neck plate keep the top side nice and smooth. Just remember to reverse (mirror) whatever you etch.

[@FearOfTheNorm]

The Kauri , aka The Albatross... Ive been following this build from day one , feels like about 42000 years ago 😂 , I truly doth my hat to you Sir Ben of Crimson ! Never before have so many hurdles been overcome by so few for so many , an attritious build that deserves a golden medallion!🏅 Looking forward to the end results x

[@stickman393]

"A lot brighter..." = "lacks bass response" I fear. Still... it's freaking gorgeous

[@BBGuitars]

Its a great day when we get more build content from Ben again!

[@deathruddlesdeathruddles5438]

Hi Be, love the look of the perspex but i'm a bit worried about the brittle failure mode of it. Maybe you should spread the load with larger head screws or cup washers...

[@scottakam]

Looking good. Bronze might be another good choice for the neck plate.

[@Runoratsu]

Polycarbonate might be better suited than Acrylic in this case. Much tougher. Also, Mr Pyromaniac, you can flame polish acrylic, you don‘t need polishing compound 😜

[@ianthomson9363]

I have my Dad's early 1960s Stanley hand drill which I recently cleaned up and use. I know what you mean about using one! When it's my time to go I'll bequeath it to my eldest nephew for use in his shed. I like the smoked acrylic neckplate, and a round of applause for polishing the inside of the countersunk holes, which will only ever be seen very rarely after the guitar's finished! It's the 'I know it's there' syndrome. And the assembled so far guitar looks lovely, all those curves around the neck joint!

[@billsguitargarage]

Just stunning. It's great to see this one coming to an end. That it gonna be one very happy customer!

[@glenclifton4563]

As always, well done!! Love watching you do these incredible things with guitars. Thanks for bringing us along.

[@motaman8074]

An "egg beater" drill is one of the first tools my Dad bought for me. Good memories.

[@TbonePlummer]

Looks and sounds stunning Ben!!

[@VladimirChernyshovGuitar1]

Your neck plate is perfect!🤘

[@andycpd6669]

This is the reason I have been watching your videos for a lot of years, the attention to detail you put in to them. If I ever come into money you would be the first person I would go too for a custom guitar making 😊 I think you should Ingrave a description of what the guitar is made of on that perspex plate on the back.

[@DTGuitarTech]

Love this!! Been following. Can’t wait to see the finished guitar.

[@Killick79]

That guitar looks stunningly beautiful

[@barkinstarfish]

Not as nice as the Fender though!

[@wisterialosenge2546]

i drill plastic and some wood with a pointy router bit, usually 1/4 inch size, because yeah, i've shattered the plastic casing on a casio keyboard and split a guitar headstock in half trying to use regular drill bits. somehow the router bit is gentle enough, probably because it's made for cutting more sideways. also, counter sink bits are safer to materials.

[@SloverOfTeuth]

Great idea, I'll be using that thanks. The router bit is really just milling the material.

[@opidonorman8833]

Your videos are so interesting to watch. Very detailed too.

[@1777DK]

When you used the automatic center punch, on acrylic, I had a scary feeling what was coming next. I wasn’t wrong. 😂 Acrylic glass will get you every time.

[@jeffkellogg76]

Make the neck plate so it is flush with the body. A smooth surface on the back is definitely preferred to something that could catch on your clothing. Ben I love the fact that you relish in your humanity and the errors that come with being a fallible being that accepts mistakes with GRACE and shows the corrections needed to fix them.

[@shoffdk]

9:34: "ahee its low effort high impact, just the way i like it" - haha... good one ! epic ! :D

[@fungusv375]

Going to be honest, not much impresses me in recent years, but seeing you build next to a fender is like comparing the Rolls-Royce to an 80's Larda. Bloody hell Ben you absolute legend, please please please dont stop building. If i had 7k to pay for it, i would still think I've ripped you off. That is 10k min guitar easy.

[@edwardgriffin8092]

I really like the idea of using threaded inserts for the neck joint.

[@rayhug60]

I incorporated inserts and countersunk bolts in a guitar i designed and had made for me back in ‘89. First time i had known it to be done, luthier was the late Bob Whiles from Aldridge, B’ham.

[@shoutdowncreative2705]

@22:55 instead of engraving in the backplate, since it IS transparent, perhaps brand your logo on the wood beneath that. 1 - u get to play with fire, 2 - it'll look cool and almost as if it's floating/3d and 3 u retain a smooth plate for player comfort.

[@ambsquared]

As soon as you drilled the first hole, I thought Perspex was not a great choice. I think a copper or bronze plate could look nice. Not sure if it would clash with the frets and tuners though. An oil rubbed bronze with the Crimson logo engraved would be nice.

[@bobbrowne3027]

My first thoughts on the neck plate was a polished brass one would compliment the wood colour and finish but have to admit that acrylic one looks nice , I do wonder about the longevity though.

[@TheBorderRyker]

I concur. 👌🏻

[@hugeys]

Having worked for over 40 yrs with Poly Perspex and every other kind of Plexi I can almost guarantee it will crack sooner than later , when I saw this first. I checked it wasn't April 1st ! I Would have gone with a Skeleton neck plate to see the wood as that is the organic beauty .Acrylic though ? and for the Trem block ! He is serious Sherlie :)

[@_wayneman_]

9:34 love the "wtf did I just say?"-face 😅

[@jipes]

Absolutely beautiful it was worth the long wait ❤

[@BLBlackDragon]

Yeah, the blank translucent smoke is nice. You can still see the wood under it. This sounds amazing.

[@drzainnas]

WOW.. Thank you Ben you have done it again!! Amazing stunning work.. we salute you and tip our hats for you best regards ENGLAND 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 👍👍

[@tiacho2893]

I found myself doing that tiny bit of counter sink so often that I did make one myself. I just drilled a 1/4" hole in a London Pattern boxwood chisel handle and epoxied in a countersink. The handle is almost identical to the plastic handles on old Craftsman screwdrivers (they copied the London pattern handle) so very comfortable to use. It really reduces chip out in the finish when installing screws in pilot holes. I give a quick touch to every screw hole after spraying the finish.

[@daleonov]

11:15 I almost forgot how "fun" working with plexiglas is, until I saw this :D

[@northland..]

very cool guitar build. 🔥

[@Konosh]

That looks great Ben! Just need to laser etch the neck plate with your initials and the crimson logo.

[@MolesterEliminator]

Absolutely gorgeous guitar.

[@davidhill5684]

Fabulous work, the finish is exceptional, but that doesn't need to be said, of course! I love the acrylic plate! I'd want to play something quite special on an instrument like this.

[@thesamaffliction1572]

It’s great to see the fender still being used. When you’ve spent the series calling it a donor it felt wrong that it was going to be incomplete and unplayable even if for a much more stunning build

[@markgordon4368]

Glass / tile cutting bits will save the day, gently goes it

[@NickGranville]

Impressed by your pronunciation of the word Kauri. Well done. Guitar is coming together nicely

[@juelsguitars]

Sooooooo nice ❤🎉

[@johnryrie4588]

Hi Ben the new favourite tool you have is a printmaker’s etching tool. That particular one is a Whister named after James McNeil Whistler.

[@markgalliher5707]

Ben, try running the drill in reverse in Perspex and similar. The flutes of the drill bit don’t bind and grab the material. Thanks for all you do.

[@kamikaze8645]

There's 2 drillbits i could advise. Try using a cobalt metal drill for the acrylic, in low gear, and let the drill do the work. no pushing down, the weight of the drill and a slight bit of armweight will do the trick just fine. divide the hole you want to create into 3, and use that as your drill upscaling. i.e. for a 6 millimeter hole, divide by 3, that means 2mm increments., start with 2mm for the pilot drill, then use 4, and finally use 6mm. Another thing you could so, is use a spearheaded drill that is used for ceramics and glass and if you have the ones that look like an actual ancient spearhead, the ones that are curved instead of angular, you wont have to increase drillsizes because the spearhead form does it for you. You can pre-drill a pilot hole, and the spearhead will center itself. Another thing i wouldn't do myself is use a centerpoint on acrylic as it is pretty brittle, instead use a thicker kind of masking tape, or a double layer if need be. By layering it, making it thicker and softer, you create the dent you need to keep the drillbit from taking a stroll :D Remember, both the cobalt drillbit and the spearhead drillbit require low revolutions in order to function properly. lower RPM actually means working faster, even, as it allows the bits to grip and scrape and remove material better than when you work in high RPM and it grazes over the material causing unwanted friction and heat that melts the acrylic and forms a dulling coating layer on the drillbit etc.. ***mindblown emoji*** Hope this helps, go make some sawdust everyone :D

[@daniel_charms]

IIRC the trick to drilling holes into acrylic using standard drill bits is to use the dullest drill bit you have - smash that metal drill bit into concrete and you're good to go. Otherwise the sharp edge will catch and shatter the plastic.

[@fenham]

Stunning in every way ❤️👏👏👏👏

[@bigtuna6463]

I love using hand tools it is so gratifing draw knives are one of my favorites. Nice guitar.

[@opidonorman8833]

Awesome build

[@bramweinreder2346]

You should definitely use round head screws and a countersunk washer. The washer will distribute the inevitable forces.

[@chriss2452]

It will crack either way

[@bramweinreder2346]

@@chriss2452 it will, but the washer might make a difference between a snowball's chance in hell, and a fighting chance. Might. But I think it'll do something. There's a point to washers, I'm sure...

[@pauldowie1399]

This is a thing of beauty

[@stu-j]

Blown away with my order and how fast it arrived! 2 days! And boy the melamine wipe on is potent lol cheers gang!

[@evasanders7327]

Pretty cool actually... It's close to how we reseat valves for engines

[@kennethnielsen3864]

Thanks for sharing.

[@MaxSxB]

"I'm fighting the temptation to polish the inside of the countersink" Literally the next frame : proceeds to polish the inside of the countersink BTW I was amazed when you put that screw in after pouring the polish, before talking about the round of applause, that's a tiny little detail but it's so genius

[@alphamegaman8847]

At 23:00 The Acrylic Looks Wonderful!🥰 However.😕 In my experience, an angled countersink into plastic with any significant load applied due to clamping force is just asking for a split piece of plastic!😱 And if you Really want to tempt fate by using Acrylic or Polycarbonate, and get any Cyanoacrylate glue fumes Anywhere near the stressed countersinks, well, you're in for a treat!😁 ANY microfractures imparted during machining or just imperfections in the polymer bonds will Gleefully unzip in the stressed areas and present as lovely fractures!😬🤬 I hope the Guitar Sounds and Plays as Beautiful as it Looks.🤞 Well Done Sir!👏 "That'll do pig, that'll do!"🥰 Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖

[@stealingtomorrowband]

26:36 really freaking cool that you still use snd incorporate old school tools in your builds etc... I've enjoyed watch the progress on this geetarrr!!!! I'm not really digging the acrylic plate, seems to fragile for my liking but you should burn the serial number in the wood underneath the plate ..

[@RadicalEdwardStudios]

On the acrylic, I might suggest flame polishing. As to cutting, maybe laser?

[@michaelkaufmann2729]

Solution for drilling acrylic: "Gühring Stufenbohrer". Absolut fantastic tools.

[@robinfawcett7973]

That looks awesome... the Fender is drab in comparison. Can't wait to hear it!

[@damianrf6309]

Ben. Don’t worry about the centre punch thing. I was in my forties before I learned that peanuts grow underground. And just the other day, at the ripe old age of 50, I learned that wombat excrement is cubed.

[@higheriam]

Beautiful guitar...This piece is truly a work of art. Was wondering if it would be done in my lifetime. I'd hate to be paying by the hour for this build.

[@eamonnparsons3155]

Bought the fretwork kit from Crimson Guitars the other day, just awaiting arrival here in Australia. So eager to undertake my first build with Australian tonewoods.

[@cheapskate8656]

What woods are you using. Or are you still deciding?

[@eamonnparsons3155]

@@cheapskate8656 Most likely Bunya Pine body and Queensland flamed maple neck. The pine will be easy to work considering my woodworking experience is limited, had a lot of people suggest it or silver quandong, but I prefer the look of the natural bunya pine, I think it will compliment the neck better.

[@cheapskate8656]

@@eamonnparsons3155 Those timbers should be good. I have used Blackwood which is excellent (especially for acoustic) but the end grain burns very easily.

[@craigbourbonevans]

being kauri the abalone for sure...its called paua down here in nz and a prized shell

[@oldwindmill5766]

Is acrylic really strong enough to be used as a neck plate? I am not sure about the long term stability. Just curios.

[@BigD4Real.]

If it cracks that easily it’s not going to last long with the pressure from the screws for the neck. In my experience acrylic expands and contracts quite a bit with temperature.

[@gregoryh4601]

Hi Ben. The Neck Plate should Be made out of Brass and add the Crimson Logo on it. With Plastic you will not be able to have enough pressure on the Screws to Hold the Neck tight. Copper plate would be Cool too. How is the 4X4 post Guitar 🎸 doing? Getting Dusty?

[@jmminms]

With the perspex, you could put a logo from the backside so it's still smooth to the players/holders hand reaching for high notes, just a thought.

[@martinbaker1609]

Your countersink polishing technique is the same concept as how you would do a valve lapping.

[@dabneyd]

Polishing the insides of the countersunk holes just like lapping valves in a combustion engine!

[@Projacked1]

Such gorgeous wood....my oh my.

[@guitfidle]

I have 2 old Millers Falls hand drills, one like that, and a large one with the shoulder rest so you can put some pressure on it. Like a poor man's drill press. I love old hand tools almost as much as Ben, and have several other Millers Falls tools (including a set of lathe tools, planes, etc) 😁

[@guitfidle]

I always use a drill press for cutting stuff like that plate. With plastic, a handheld drill tends to go too fast, and can grab hold of the material, causing the crack. A drill press helps you slow down how fast the bit is cutting into the material, and prevents grabbing. If you need to use a hand drill, a step bit will also open the hole up without grabbing. (step bits are pretty awesome for lots of other things, I use them all the time) I had to work with plastic signage at my last job, so I have a decent amount of experience, learning from several mistakes... Oh, and I like stainless steel for neck plates, jack plates, etc. I've even made my own string thru ferrules and truss rod nuts from it.

[@stevenedwards4470]

I worry that perspex will develop stress cracks from the pressure of the screws...or worse, just break through.

[@smmyers5956]

Since it is a very soft wood I think using threaded inserts and machine screws for the neck is a fantastic idea.

[@N3066Z1]

Ben, as soft as that wood is, even though you have treated it with the cactus juice, super glue, and all that lacquer, I would vote for using threaded inserts to bolt the neck on just as a precaution.

[@tonyhunt4250]

Love it man!