Midwest clutch and front brake levers review︱Cross Training Enduro

Gnarly dirt riding means a lot of clutch slipping which can be tough on the left hand - our group recently tried the Midwest Clever Levers out to see how much lighter they made the clutch, and had a go at the front brake lever as well. We swapped these between our bikes to get impressions from six different riders. Visit the Midwest Mountain Engineering website for more information: www.midwestme.com/
MIDWEST CLUTCH LEVER CLAIMS
- 50% reduction in actuation force
- Less fatigue, less arm pump and more endurance
- Allows one or two finger operation
- Ball on lever end meets safety requirements
- Lever width reduces blistering
MIDWEST BRAKE LEVER CLAIMS
- Uses stock pivot geometry for same action as stock brake lever
- Same "shorty" length for one or two finger grip
- Adjust for a short or long reach
- Same ergonomic width as clutch lever
- Ball on lever end meets safety requirements.
The clever levers from Midwest are getting a reputation for being a cost effective way to lighten your clutch action, and also allow one or two finger use of each lever so you can hold on to the bars better.
We swapped the levers among several bikes so that we could get overall impressions from six riders. Here's a summary of Midwest's claims from the website.
First, everyone agreed the clutch is noticeably lighter, especially when feathering the clutch. We measured the clutch pull required at the same spot on both levers and agreed the initial pull is about 50% easier. From the halfway mark to full disengaged it was about 30% easier, at least on the Beta RR300 when tested. The consensus was this could only be a good thing in terms of less fatigue for the clutch hand.
The lever works on the basis of using more leverage, so generally you need to pull the lever all the way into the bars to disengage the clutch. This took some adjustment for everyone and there was some bike stalling until we adapted to the longer pull. Some felt this would be good in terms of finer clutch control, others weren't so keen but thought the lighter clutch action made it worthwhile.
A big plus in our book is the lever encourages one finger clutch action, generally the ideal for technical dirt riding. Set up properly, there is no danger of crushing the lever against your other fingers against the bars.
The wider lever felt comfortable for everyone, only rider questioned this as his gloves got wet then started to slip on the lever a bit. He felt it wasn't a big issue, but in the long run would consider roughing up the lever a little for more grip if it was an ongoing issue.
Plenty of european bikes like katos are known for their dragging clutches even when warmed up, the increased length of the clutch pull usually means a bit of adjustment of the lever to avoid clutch drag even when the lever is fully against the bars.
MIDWEST BRAKE LEVER CLAIMS
- Uses stock pivot geometry for same action as stock brake lever
- Same "shorty" length for one or two finger grip
- Adjust for a short or long reach
- Same ergonomic width as clutch lever
- Ball on lever end meets safety requirements.
The Midwest brake lever. As Midwest states, it has exactly the same action as the stock lever and is adjustable. The big advantage we saw was again that it encourages a one finger grip for better grip on the handlebars, or two fingers if you move the lever outward. With the possible exception of the guy with wet gloves, we all liked the thick lever again... the ergonomics are well thought out. our research on forums indicated that there is occasionally a rider who doesn't gel with the thicker levers but they usually just cut and file them down to a width they like, but the vast majority prefer the thick lever design. At around US$70 we feel the clutch lever is especially worthwhile if you'd like to lighten your clutch pull without forking out a lot of money, then if you like the ergonomics of it consider getting the matching brake lever as well. And of course if you are one of the very small minority who wind up not liking it, it simply becomes a spare lever in your kit if you break the stock lever.
Playlist for our enduro vlogs: • All our enduro rides!︱...
Cross Training Enduro Skills Facebook: / cross.training.enduro....
Cross Training Enduro Skills KZbin channel: / @crosstrainingenduro
One of 50+ free enduro training vids at www.crosstrainingenduro.com/
Visit our cross training KZbin channel and subscribe here: / @crosstrainingenduro
Cross Training Enduro Skills website: www.crosstrainingenduro.com/

[@crosstrainingenduro]

NOTE When Midwest say up to 50% easier, this refers to the first part of the clutch movement e.g. slipping the clutch. Tests on our bikes showed the leverage decreases as you pulled the clutch all the way in. E.g. the final part of the movement is about a 25% improvement and will probably vary from bike to bike. The MIdwest might not suit riders with smaller hands. It relies on leverage, so you need to start with the lever a long way out, then pull it all the way in to the bars to fully disengage the clutch. It also means you need to stay on top of the adjustment. The screws can loosen over time and affect that fine balance needed to make it work well (Loctite isn't a bad idea). Some riders report they simply can't get it working well on their bike. We don't know if this is user-error or whether some clutch setups don't work that well? Do your research. See if there are problems getting it work on your bike model. Finally, there are cheaper ways to lighten your clutch you might find useful. Consider trying these first: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5W9qnmIYs53jcU

[@vadovicsgabor6327]

I ordered both the clutch and the brake lever based on your videos experiences. I got them 2 days ago. I can say: it is not cheap(to ship to Hungary and taxes), but definetly worth the money: the clutch is waaaaaaaay lighter than the stock, and the short levers are great upgrade! Can't wait for a longer testride!

[@SoilworkZA01]

Been running these levers for a while now. One finger brake lever is magic! Clutch lever must be set up properly and this can take some time. Steve from Midwest is always quick to respond to emails if you have any issues.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Robert Moore yep, i noticed this with my initial research that some riders are quick to make complaints when they haven't taken the time to adjust it properly... you can't really have any free play or try to adjust it too close to the bars for short fingers as it needs the full travel to make use of the extra leverage.

[@tommasobenvegnu7534]

Steve mail please. I'm not able to register my mma lever😖😖😖

[@kekko_hm9448]

It's been awhile I am watching your videos and I find them incredible! They are funny, useful and at the same time I understand the mental experience of the creator and the known of phisic. Another 14 yo subscriber from Italy 🔝🔝

[@kekko_hm9448]

Knowledge**

[@crosstrainingenduro]

mille grazie kekko!

[@ABH313]

I bought this lever after watching this review. It came today so here are my initial thoughts. -shipping was super fast...arrived in 2 days -easy install, obviously, its 1 screw -makes the clutch incredibly easy to pull and control -adjusting is a little difficult but no big deal, just takes some patience and make sure the bike is warm Time will tell how good it really is but initially, I love it...I literally started laughing after i pulled it Ihe first few times...the clutch should feel like that from the factory! Definitely worth the price imo. I will update after I ride with it a while.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

sounds good alan! most guys like them, or grow to like them eventually.

[@andrewsmith2948]

Any update on these?

[@nickchristofora3417]

updates?

[@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602]

Are you still happy with the Midwest clutch lever.... I hear they can be problematic with clutch slipping?

[@nickchristofora3417]

@@rebelliontotyrantsisobedie5602 Ive had mine for about a month now. I like it. Honestly its similar to stock pull but I like how its shorter and a little thicker. I Crashed and it broke my pivot bolt but the lever is fine and did not snap. My clutch isnt slipping at all of right now. Knock on wood

[@singletrack_king7700]

Still using my Rm 250 still never any issue going anywhere, I honestly like hydraulic clutches but my cable clutch never bugged me to even change it out.

[@ViceVersaMusik1]

I love this Channel Man!!!!

[@SoulCaliberDrago]

This looks like a great product! If the guy is having a hard time with his fingers slipping there are little rubber things that you can put on your levers that will stop your fingers sliding, alternatively I think a little bit of a push bike tube glued to your lever would do the same job for cheaper.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+LoneTurtle excellent tip, i might mention that to the guy who had his fingers slipping once his gloves got wet.

[@2burning2turning]

I rode a mates bike with this lever and now I'm 100% converted. Makes technical stuff a breeze. Well worth the $150aud.

[@anguspinkerton8637]

Here’s a tip may or may not be useful but in really wet and muddy terrain you slip off the lever a lot you could use skateboard grip on your levers just to give you some more grip like I do on my mountain bikes

[@rockrover85]

I would put some heat shrink on it

[@richrides2308]

Nice levers for sure! According to the website it only works for Brembo & Magura systems. Well I'll better start training my hands & fingers for more endurance. A great review as always :)

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+RichRIDES rich there are some other levers that provide extra leverage and might suit other bikes, we only reviewed the midwest because we'd had quite a few emails asking us to check them out.

[@LGR_LGR_LGR]

What i like is that i can put my barkbusters where i want them,maybe some grip tape on the lever to help with grip.

[@AaronMaz]

Thank you

[@oscarprandini5812]

I got the clutch lever 5 months ago after I saw it here. Before I had the shorter magura lever and after I changed the levers I really dind´t feel much difference on actuation force but did on the confort due to the wider profile.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

it seems to vary from bike to bike, oscar. they claim a 50% reduction in force but i've only experienced that on the beta xtrainer.... other bikes it feels more like a third less force needed.

[@kevinmarshall9001]

70 dollars us is insane considering what other brands offer for that price. I paid 70 for a protaper brake lever that's adjustable , 3way collapsible , comes with rubber dust boots and has a lifetime warranty. This clutch lever is just a redesigned lever it shouldn't cost that much at all. I would consider trying it but not at the price.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

i thought that too kevin although slightly changed my opinion recently... spoke a guy who does CNC machining who reckons they shape they use makes the machining a fair bit trickier and he thought the prices was reasonable given that consideration. i don't personally know enough to judge the value though.

[@ozbiker5311]

Hi How would you compare the lever to ok its more expensive but to the clark One Light Clutch regards Marc's

[@Echobike01]

your videos rock ☺

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Greg thanks greg, i seem to be getting the hang of this video editing bit by bit

[@tardywombat9513]

awesome video mate! its interesting to hear your view on the weight of the clutches on your bikes, I have a wr450 and a250 pumpkin. I find the clutch on the 250 perfect (the 450 is hell) and actually like the little bit of resistance it offers ive ridden a mates 300 with a clake two and I felt like I couldn't feel the engagement very well making my riding the opposite of smooth anyway keep up the good work!

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+thetardywombat true, you need some resistance or there's no feel hey? my hand is pretty bad after every ride so initially went the softest option on the clake ONE, but did back it off a lot because it was so easy i had a bit of trouble with fine control of the clutch. amazing piece of engineering, bloody expensive, but the way my hands are going i'll need one from now on. :(

[@reidferguson7842]

anybody know of a current distributor in australia? website has little info.

[@16cliffedge]

I went from riding old dirtbikes, DTs etc, I bought some Eurotrash, the colour got me.. but i find myself on steep downhills etc sometimes cutting the bike off, one has to be far more decisive, so to speak, with a fc350 018/ magura hydraulic clutch lever to stop a flameout , unheard of any of my older bikes

[@jeremys4705]

I know this is an old but post I just got mine today and will trying this weekend. The first one that arrived the pivot hole wasn't big enough. Not a big deal since I live in California and had a new one in about a week. Hopefully this one fits, out to the garage shortly to install. I injured my UCL and can barely use the clutch right now (it's been 6 months) so I thought I would give this a try. Directions aren't super clear on how to adjust, I think it will be fairly obvious one it's on the bike, warmed up and can feel the "drag". I have a 2017 TX 300 with the Magura clutch and it's already quite soft but if I can get another 30-50% less pull that will make a HUGE difference for me. I tried to get a Clake which I tried on a friends bike and loved but the price getting to the US was a bit high vs the $74 bucks with shipping the Midwest.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

huskys and ktms have six clutch springs so you can try removing two as well, just check for any slippage at full throttle. also look at the $1 clutch springs mod in our five ways to a lighter clutch vid. :)

[@jeremys4705]

CROSS TRAINING ENDURO SKILLS good ideas as always. Love your videos, keep up the great work. Top notch.

[@andrewsmith2948]

Any update on your experience with these levers ?

[@paulgeorgelas383]

I ordered the B2B brake lever for my brembo brake. Anyone else having an issue with the return spring? Instructions say to install the stock brake lever spring but when I do that it bends so bad when install that it doesn’t do anything.

[@michail1963]

Actually if the lever pull is lighter based on the simple principle of bigger leverage, then it also means this lever helps to increase the preceision in clutch modulation, which must be a good thing in technical single track and hill climbs, I presume.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+michail1963 a few guys have mentioned that michail. some of us don't, but i wonder if we just need to use the lever for longer and adapt to it. i only used it for four rides before i fitted the clake.

[@MrEnduroVlogs]

This will be the 1st mod I do to the 640 after 3 year. Can bearly slip the clutch in tiny trials. My hand cramps up so bad I have to stop for about an hour. Will let you know ho it goes.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+MrEnduro cool, i definitely think it's worth trying the cheaper midwest lever if you have those problems before looking at the clake ONE light clutch... the clake is incredibly light but will cost four times as much.

[@MrEnduroVlogs]

+CROSS TRAINING, ENDUROCROSS & ENDURO TECHNIQUES Yup will be going the midwest 1st. Kind of excited.

[@kegs3004]

Sorry i just bought some if they are no good will try and sell them on ebay but i think from your review ill like em cheers

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+kegs 300 hope they work out for you kegs, definitely go for a few rides first. one of our guys wasn't too impressed his first ride but was loving them by his third ride. everyone else loved them straight off.

[@davidnnn96]

Wish I could get something like this for my YZ

[@crosstrainingenduro]

the clake one light clutch has a hydraulic conversion but it's more expensive than the midwest. :(

[@philip22nz]

Great Vid as always, Which brake lever fits the beta?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Phil Taylor thanks phil... discussion on this thread: www.betarider.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=947

[@yvesguerinmtl]

Great, but for ktm only, I have a kdx 220 2002, so I made my own hydraulic clutch and clutch lever too (2 fingers) (got the stuff from aliexpress.com).

[@elituko]

aliexpress .com yeah sure, hair extensions etc. You are too funny.

[@danielpelosi]

Hey guys, what do you think about combining a midwest clutch lever with a Clake SLR?? Might be a more economical option?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

be interesting to see if anyone has done that on the forums and talked about it

[@scottgaskill4896]

Thing I'm concerned about is that you can't adjust the engagement point out towards the end of the travel, or meaning away from the bar. On a four stroke you can't be having to pull it all the way to the bar to slip clutch in tough terrain. It has to be out towards the end where it's begins to disengage to be able to respond quickly enough. Anybody agree or know what I mean?

[@JoshStreetDesign]

yeah, on my xcf you have to pull that thing practically all the way to the bar to have it slip, if it's only a half pull that bike is still goin.

[@khuwe2]

Same on my 2022 300 XCW. Switching back to the stock clutch lever.

[@BryanCoombes]

I'm going to buy this, I have shorter fingers but I can reach the stock 2016 KTM xcfw 350 levers fine but I wouldn't want them much further out. Would I be ok ya think?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

can't guarantee it bryan but it is adjustable so hopefully no worries

[@kyl3dr]

Does this work for guys with small hands? I got the impression it moves the lever farther from the bars. Is that true?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

no it doesn't use extra leverage. plus you can bring it in quite close if that suits.

[@a.b1211]

Is there an adjustment for the throw (reach) on the clutch lever?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

This was covered in the vid

[@dathonlawler81]

I’ve got around 6 hours of hard single track & hare scramble racing with this lever. I can’t get the lever to disengage the clutch all the way. If I lock the rear tire with lever all the way in the bike dies. Spent a solid hour adjusting and still couldn’t get it. Then…I went as far as replacing all friction and all steels. Still dragging hard. I will bleed the system tomorrow as we are about to drive 22 hours across the country for a dirtbike destination. I might go back to stock lever (2021 te300i).

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I hope you get it working. I know occasionally some riders say they can't seem to get the adjustment right... I don't know what the issue is in those cases. We tried them on quite a few bikes and zero issues after a bit of adjustment. Let me know how you go!

[@dathonlawler81]

@@crosstrainingenduro It’s fixed now. I had read a comment where the push rod wore through the master cylinder. That made sense to me, as I noticed the machined ends were a little rough. I polished them to an amazing luster. Reinstalled and started the adjustment process from the beginning. With the rubber boot out of the way, I was able to wiggle/make adjustments quicker because I could I could see it all. Dialed in super quick, got it warm, started to drag, adjusted the screw in a little more, then a little more, then finally done. I have no idea what I DIDN’T do last time🤷🏻‍♂️ keeping the stock lever in my camel back😂

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Great to hear!

[@liamhoffman2459]

To get more grip on your levers put some grip tape on it

[@OldBrokenBastards]

Hockey tape works great too.

[@LockStockNBarrel]

What about a lever for folks without hydrolic clutches? What are our options?

[@CutthroatBill]

+Enduro MF I've been using a Righteous Stunt Clutch on my WR250R for a couple of years now, and I love it! You might want to give it a shot.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Cutthroat Bill you didn't mention any bike model, but whatever it is you could search around for other levers that use extra leverage, or if you've got the cash do a hydraulic conversion?

[@CutthroatBill]

+CROSS TRAINING, ENDUROCROSS & ENDURO TECHNIQUES Mine is a Yamaha WR250R '08, but the Righteous Stunt Clutch Lever should fit most cable-operated bikes. Here's the link to their website for anyone who's interested: www.righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.html

[@LockStockNBarrel]

+Cutthroat Bill Thanks I was looking at maybe picking one of those up. I ride a 2013 wr450f.

[@randymerica2846]

I bought a 2017 KTM 350 xc-f and the clutch pull was horrible. I switched to the clever lever and it was noticeably lighter but I am curious on the clake one light clutch since it's still heavy. I've seen your reviews on both (why I bought the Midwest lever) but was wondering how much lighter was the clake? Should have bought a husqvarna for the lighter stock clutch.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

as per the vid you can make a clake up to 80% lighter but you start to lose some feel, most of us settle around 2/3 lighter. you can also try removing two clutch springs on katos, google around for more info.

[@steveblaszczyk2100]

Randy Merica I also just bought a 2017 ktm 350 xcf and the clutch pull was horribly heavy. is the clever lever definitely worth buying in your opinion?

[@randymerica2846]

Yes it helps a lot. I could only pull the clutch so many times on the stock with one finger and with this lever I'm able to ride for hours. Also able to ride the next day with minimal fatigue from the day before. I've got a good bit of vids on here with this lever and some are races, single track practice and free rides.

[@lukaspa3998]

Hello, can you tell me the correct levers for the beta xtrainer 300 2016? Thanks for your help!

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Lukas Pampus (LpMoto) i'm not too sure now lukas but midwest should have the info on their site now, or you could email them.

[@TravisHammeng]

They don't make a lever to suit the beta nissin brake master (I assume the xtrainer runs the same master as the RR)

[@JoeJoeMoto]

hahaha it's like you are one step ahead of me all time time! I was about to order mine through the week, but borked a bit at the $230AUD price tag......

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+JoeJoe Moto yeah the shipping is a killer joe, i reckon you'd want to go in with a few others if poss. one guy mentioned there are cheap chinese levers with a longer pull but didn't provide any links or comments on how well they work.

[@NitroAl]

+JoeJoe Moto Get two brake levers JoeJoe and I'll swap you one for a clutch lever

[@JoeJoeMoto]

+NitroAl Nah, I don't think I am going to go ahead with it, too much money.

[@franciscoshi1968]

When I do a search for one finger levers I always get MTB videos. It seems for MTBs one finger is the norm. Are we missing something here?

[@joshpoulsen7597]

More fingers on the bar, less fatigue in your hand, check out the hard enduro folks.

[@jorgearraiol6350]

Does it folds to avoid breaking? thanks

[@crosstrainingenduro]

I don't know Jorge. I run wrap around handguards so never tested it out. I suspect the plan is if the plastic does break then it's much cheaper to just buy a new bit of plastic than a whole lever?

[@kegs3004]

Hey mate is there an aussie dealer for these?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+kegs 300 not that i could find, kegs. and the shipping is fairly steep so it's the sort of thing you'd want to go in with a few mates. be handy if you try before you buy but at least there's the money back guarantee although i figure you'd be out of pocket for shipping. :(

[@seeitwithchris1041]

+CROSS TRAINING ENDURO SKILLS I have heard reports of creep with the Midwest Clever levers. I already have this a bit with the factory clutch lever and would hate to have more with the clever levers. Have you experienced any creep? Thank you!

[@crosstrainingenduro]

once it is adjusted it should be fine chris... but because it uses more travel you definitely need to be more careful with the adjustment.

[@AaronMaz]

What exactly is creep, excuse my ignorance.

[@seeitwithchris1041]

You pull in the clutch all the way, but the bike pulls forward a bit still from what I understand.

[@Rangerglx]

You can adjust that out of the leaver, I call that drag.

[@CutthroatBill]

I have a unrelated question. My clutch is cable operated, and it feels a little "sponge-y". Is there anything I can do to improve this?

[@ILoveNeeps]

+Cutthroat Bill Try cleaning and lubing your clutch cable, if the cables messy it can cause drag between it and the cable casing which can lead to that spongey, unresponsive feeling.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Draft_ yup, plus if you have the cash you can get hydraulic conversion kits...

[@CutthroatBill]

+CROSS TRAINING, ENDUROCROSS & ENDURO TECHNIQUES If I had the cash, I would've loved to give the Clake 2 a try. It sounds really good, and I''ve never been a fan of foot-operated rear brakes anyway. Of course, just a conversion kit would've been a much cheaper way to go. I might look into that.

[@CutthroatBill]

+Draft_ I have lubed it, but I've never taken it apart to clean it, or inspect it. I should probably do that.

[@johnslaughter7110]

Back in the 70s, 80s and90s there was a company called Terry Cable. Their cables were magic! Can't remember which bike I installed them on 1st, 81 Maico 490 or 80 Can-am 400 but after that it was the 1st mod on every single bike I had. They even made cables for my v-8 914 conversion, which were an absolute must because of the 3200 LB pressure plate which would snap stockers after only 2-3 hrs.

[@JoshStreetDesign]

The clutch lever does NOT allow one finger use as the lever hits your middle finger knuckle if you have Renthal twin wall bars as you can't move the perch over far enough.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

So more correctly... you are saying the clutch perch on your bike (you didn't mention the model) will be forced out IF you use the Twin Wall bars and not allow one finger use. What sort of bike? It may not an issue for most even with the Rental possibly...

[@JoshStreetDesign]

@@crosstrainingenduro So I wasn't fully correct I admit. After I wrote this comment I went out and worked on it some more. My bike is a 17 KTM XC-F 350 with Renthal Twinwalls that have 1.25" cut off each end for tight woods trails. The clutch perch is mean to be mounted on the 7/8th part of the bars, and with my map switch that has to be closest to the grip, it forces the clutch to be mounted on the thicker walled part of the bar. Not ideal. I had to get longer allen bolts to make it work. It's pretty much rigged now, but it's not going anywhere, it works with 1 finger, and the clutch pull is definitely lighter. I will say though the the brake lever is weird. It has a lot of back and forth play before it engages, no matter how far the set bolt is screwed in or out. It's almost like it should have another spring on the back that goes against the brake mount, or at least the lever should have the back part at more of an angle to stop it from moving so much. In the video it shows yours returning all the way to the rest position against the brake mount, but mine doesn't do that, there's a bit of space on the full return. I can't see any way of adjusting that. The way it is now, you can jiggle the lever around, it's loose, and I don't' like that...

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Thanks for the info, Josh. Yeah I suspect shortening the bars will often mean it's tricky balancing it all out...

[@Shultzchet]

I've been trying to use one finger clutch for quite a few years now and I find im about half and half between one and two fingers, when I put the second finger on it is usually right over and barely hanging on to the ball at the end of the lever, so because I am holding the lever farther out then where the test pull weight is and already getting more leverage that way, I am wondering how much easier the pull could possibly be by getting a shorter lever. I can understand how applying the force at the same distance from the pivot can be lighter on theirs but they also seem to be under the implication that it isn't possible to pull the stock lever from the end. So I'd there a difference from the ends of each lever or am I not their target demographic because I can put my index finger on the very end on the lever.

[@JoshStreetDesign]

it's not so much the lever as the piston is shorter creating more leverage

[@Shultzchet]

@@JoshStreetDesign I understand how this lever compared to a regular lever would be lighter when pulled at the same distance from the pivot, but how does it compare to pulling at the very end of a standard lever?

[@JoshStreetDesign]

@@Shultzchet personally I still feel like it's lighter and they actually did the poundage measurements so I mean there's proof in the pudding there... Although that's kind of an irrelevant point because you can't pull the end of the stock lever with one finger anyway due to how long it is.

[@Shultzchet]

@@JoshStreetDesign but that is my point, its not irrelevant but everyone acts like it is and there is no data for that measurement. It's not irrelevant because that's how I pull the stock levers already. And I haven't found data directly comparing the end of one to the end of the other.

[@JoshStreetDesign]

@@Shultzchet dude I've already said it once and I'll say it again they show in the video the amount of force it takes to pull each lever at the end with an actual meter did you skip that part?

[@connorstiles5786]

First off, great video. I just can't justify $70 for my already light clutch pull of my KTM 105sx. I could maybe see someone buying this for a non-hydraulic clutch, but still $70 for a lever is a lot

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Connor Stiles absolutely... as per the last vid we don't think anyone should buy this stuff unless they have a particular problem e.g. in this case weak fingers and lots of clutch slipping in technical terrain.

[@connorstiles5786]

Yes, I could see it being very helpful in those conditions, thx

[@dirtrider88]

+Connor Stiles not available for non hydro clutch

[@tommasobenvegnu7534]

I do not find a good regolation😭😭😭.when I put in first gear also with lever at the bar Moto go forward. It dangerous for the clutch sistem😭😭😭. I fir lever like video, motor is hot but do not change the problem....

[@rex4x4]

must have

[@aubreyroche5080]

Oh my that BRUISE on my Ring finger......

[@kegs3004]

no worries ta, i just

[@MR-ry6oj]

Any experience in combination with 9mm master cylinder?

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Not yet, MR. I'm not even sure what 9mm is.

[@MR-ry6oj]

@@crosstrainingenduro I believe almost every world stage enduro rider (Billy, Jonny, Many…)change the original clutch master cylinder which has the 10mm piston for the 9mm piston sized which are found on the 125 KTMs-lighter, longer clutch pull and bigger engagement point

[@tommyt9519]

I have a 9mm master cylinder waiting to be installed on my 2018 EXC-F 350 but found that after adding the MME levers after a fresh clutch pack and dead-flat Bellville washer adjust, it wasn't needed. I just rode 2 days (8hrs, 7hrs) of rocky, rutty central Thailand terrain and my clutch fingers didn't fatigue at all. My old setup would cause my fingers to ache after 3 hours or so. The 9mm master cylinder may not push enough fluid when used with the MME levers. I may try it when it's time to bleed again just to see.

[@MR-ry6oj]

@@tommyt9519 I happy using this combination for the last 150hrs, no issues

[@tommyt9519]

@@MR-ry6oj Great news! Can't wait to try it.

[@keithmorrison5463]

Is this better then a Clake clutch? Obviously cheaper

[@crosstrainingenduro]

impossible to answer keith, it depends on whether you like or hate the differences.

[@keithmorrison5463]

How about which is lighter to use?

[@noclosecoasters9903]

I'd highly recommend against these levers. I thought I really liked it for about 60 or so hours, then started getting clutch dragging that adjustment wouldn't fix. Had the intent to bleed the clutch, and it turns out it basically bored a hole in the master cylinder and destroyed it. Now I have to replace my master cylinder.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

It sounds as though something is going wrong there? I've used the same lever on three different bikes now with zero issues... as have quite a few riding buddies.

[@rehepeks]

Where was the hole? Can you upload some pictures?

[@smsd777]

Frighteningly Mid West also manufacturer a chainsaw mount and perhaps scarier have a link to Herbalife from their product page!...

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Herbalife... WTF? 😂😂

[@scottlilly4091]

Clutch Lever position is terrible. I modified the push rod to get a better lever position. It’s a love hate relationship.

[@mindaugasmilasauskas7662]

I'm surprised how many 3rd parties are producing simple levers which do nothing more than just shifting lever arm in exchange for longer travel. The same effect would be moving in the handle of stock level and just pressing on the tip of it. Of course stock levers are uncomfortably shaped for this as tip of lever is too far from the handlebar and the whole contraption would become too bulky. I'm even more surprised that original clutch and brake manufacturers are not recognizing this market potential and are not producing shortened levers with shifted fulcrum. A continuously adjustable fulcrum or pushpoint position would be even better idea. In this area Clake's products are different (I'm yet to see how).

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Mindaugas Milasauskas a great point, it would be quite easy for manufacturers to provide an alternative lever, especially the japanese who are persisting with heavier cable clutches... ouch.

[@SuperOrcy]

the levers look nice and all, but wheres your review of this little beauty? www.midwestme.com/products.html#ChainSaw

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+SuperOrcy funny you should mention that, one of our guys saw it on the site and is really keen to get one for clearing tracks on his property... if he does we'll probably pop up a review. :)

[@kodikardash6841]

Let’s get this straight. It shows proof at 5 seconds in the video how you could get the same performance out of your old lever... right? Just look at the to levers did by side really there just different lengths I’d say. If you want the performance of the mid west just cut your stock lever to that length ? Right... is the Midwest even a foldable lever ? If you want the ball or knob like the Midwest lever has you can cut your old lever to the desired length plus about 1/2 an inch, torch the end or your lever were you want the ball or knob, put lever in a vice and pound the end or your lever till you have a bit of a hook on the end of it. I’m thinking this would work.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

ah i think that might be back to front. e.g. if you have the length of your lever then the basic principles of leverage mean it will be twice as hard to pull in.

[@TravisHammeng]

PSA: there is no Midwest brake lever to suit the beta nissin brake master

[@crosstrainingenduro]

there's a ktm one that fits fine, i can't remember the model number but you can google for it on beta forums.

[@TravisHammeng]

CROSS TRAINING ENDURO SKILLS I've been emailing Steve at Midwest and he said there isn't one that fits the nissin brake master, he has plans of making one soon, and he also is going to update the website with more info on what fits what. I checked out the beta riders Forum and couldn't find anything about what fits. Got a link at all?

[@utahdesertrider1806]

I emailed somebody about my Beta and never got a response. I guess no levers for me

[@TravisHammeng]

Unstoppable120s Bernardo I've drawn up a matching style brake lever that I'll be machining when I get some time.

[@rosaphan6511]

Hahahah 10$ on ali express

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Is there a Chinese knock off? Given how Chinese footpegs tend to snap I reckon you'd want solid handguards to protect that brittle Chinese alloy. 😢

[@rosaphan6511]

@@crosstrainingenduro 1 years of hard enduro ktm 500 exc f 2018 never broke thanks China 🇨🇳

[@crosstrainingenduro]

Low prices are always a pleasant surprise, Rosa. 😊 But increasingly a lot of us are avoiding the Chinese stuff for various reasons. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4LXlYqIg5qJoKs

[@rehepeks]

@@crosstrainingenduro Not saying that people should get knock offs instead of supporting a company who designed the original but a bit softer clutch lever might be even preferrable. I'd rather buy a new 10$ clutch lever after a crash than buy a new clutch master. Also not safety critical part.

[@adamhrasko2168]

Am i only one who is using basic levers ? I cant pull it with 2 fingers, eventually, pulling it requires 4 fingers... But i dont care (just joking, cant afford new one :D )

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+Adam Hraško lol i was using the stock lever on the beta for the first few months but may middle aged hand was like a claw after every ride. :) i doubt young guys would need this sort of lever.

[@adamhrasko2168]

Well, once we are talking about age, i guess you dont want to get burried with your italian princess... Have you already written your testimory ? Ever considered me as a heir ?

[@amryamaha]

A very good and informative review as usuall. but for $70 and $80 Midwest can eat shit, I'll be a man and deal with the very easy pull of my stock magura. some people want to be overnight millionaires.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

+amryamaha yeah, i'm not sure if it came out clearly in the review but i'm really only suggesting it for old gits like our mob whose fingers ache after every ride, or guys doing a hell of a lot of technical terrain and their light clutches start to feel heavy after a few hours.

[@amryamaha]

+CROSS TRAINING, ENDUROCROSS & ENDURO TECHNIQUES Yeah I totally understand fingers getting cramped etc. I'm just curious, out of your mob, how many of you will fork out the $70 dollars for your own lever?, since you said you guys shared the one lever on 6 different bikes. The prices on levers just make me sick. On another note how about a video on proper dismount techniques. I fell over at a standstill and the big heavy fourstroke crushed my ankle, costing me 3 weeks off the bike, just an idea if your looking for a video subject. I'm ready for a 2stroker

[@crosstrainingenduro]

we got three different types so all the riders could try them, haven't checked back with the other three guys to see if they'll buy them or not but they definitely liked it. dismount technique is on the list.

[@michaelsteven1090]

amryamaha damn dude. Don't be so cheap. People that think like you never get money. You have to not be worried about having money or else it will never come to you.

[@jaynelson5793]

I guess Honda riders aren't worthy.

[@crosstrainingenduro]

They did make a version for cable clutch bikes but it barely sold at all apparently