CT125 Valve Adjustment HD 1080p

[@richardvillar340]

Very helpful, thank you. My little Trail is making me feel like a gearhead. First vehicle I've ever done my own maintenance on and it feels great!

[@spydie]

You're welcome. Thanks for your support.

[@keithtrent4446]

Good video. Keeping up the maintenance. Tappet covers are identical. Those are probably casting numbers for quality control issues. That's what I've been told before. One easy way is If you watch the intake valve close then open while your rotating crankshaft. Once it closes and starts to open it is coming up on compression stroke. Wath then for the T mark. The Mark comes up twice TDC And BDC. watching the intake takes out the guesswork. You mentioned top steering bearings. I've done that on some bikes before and did good for awhile but then developed flat spots on the bearing races and became notchy. The head bearings are torqued to a certain amount to prevent that. They make steering dampers but probably not for the ct125.

[@pasdutout4690]

No, while rotatng the crank, you watch the intake valve OPENI, then CLOSE. Once it is completely CLOSED, piston is approaching TDC (compression stroke). About 90 deg. more rotation , the piston will be very near TDC (check this with a small screwdriver through the spark plug hole). Then heck the valves' lash. This works even for a multicylinder engine, if you decide to adjust the cylinders one after the other, not bothering about timing marks (these are only necessary for assembly purpose, really). Note : valve going DOWN is OPENING, going UP is CLOSING (and not the reverse)

[@cr500mike]

Good Stuff Spydie , liked/subscribed.

[@nigelbaldwin752]

Very clear explanation of the valve clearance check/adjustment, thank you. On my Supercub the inlet and exhaust had both closed up a bit at 2,500 miles, so worth checking. The valve covers on the 22 Supercub are completely different shape now, I guess if the CT ever comes to UK/ Euro region, it will also be the euro 5 compliant engine as in the 'grey' Supercub.with an oil filter in a housing replacing the 'spinner' arrangement. Safe riding and thanks again for your excellent video.

[@spydie]

so did the supercub get the oil filter? if it did, did it also get a 5 speed transmission? The Monkey (which I now have as I sold the CT125) and the Grom both have the 5-speed and oil filter for 2022 (the Grom might have gotten it in 2021, not sure) but it's been a problem. The new 5-speed has a lubrication problem and the top two gears are turning blue and burning up. I had my name on a waiting list for a new 2022 Monkey but when I saw the problems with that new transmission, I decided it was safer to pick up a used 2021 model Monkey with the 4-speed and oil spinner. I found one with 285 miles on it like new and have been enjoying it for about 1500 miles now. I really wanted the 5-speed and oil filter but I might trade up in a couple years after I'm sure they have the problem all solved. And I might not. This bike is doing everything I need it to do and gets up to 150 mpg (much better than my CT125 which got about 120 mpg). The Monkey never gets less than 130 mpg.

[@NitwitMN]

Another in a valuable series of Trail 125 skills, knowledge and know-how transfers! Excellent.

[@spydie]

Thank you!

[@TimmyT-21]

Great content, I'm saving your videos for future maintenance reference. I've only got about 24 miles on my ct125, but I'm prepping and educating myself for the future. You're videos are of great value to our community! Keep up the great work!

[@spydie]

Thanks Tim. I might make some more videos in the future if I run into new things to do to it, but I've about run out of material. I bought a new 2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan yesterday and now I'll have to start making videos on that!

[@S3ISOR]

Thank you for sharing this video, very useful and easy to see what you're doing.

[@patrickbowtell]

Thanks for posting. Excellent tutorial .

[@patrickbowtell]

Just tackled mine. Bike @ 3500 k. Inlet fine and exhaust also a little (.001") tight.

[@ensidfkgnur]

Wow, thank you for your FANTASTIC camera work, angles, lighting, etc. Every aspect of this was top-notch. Wonder if there's just a tiny amount more metal on the exhaust valve cover? Great work, Spydie!

[@spydie]

Sold this bike to a guy in Poland. Got a new Monkey on order.

[@ensidfkgnur]

@@spydie Your accessories video and this one will help him and ALL Trail125 riders forever!

[@madogblue]

Great video. What is that special tappet wrench gizmo?

[@spydie]

That is just something I got on Amazon. amzn.to/3EQVwXf

[@colbydog8185]

Got it from previous question. Thanks

[@walterpalmer2749]

Top, clear instruction. Thank you. Valve clearance is so important. Any responsible rider rather adjust their own valves. Thanks again,. I'm seriously considering this bike and the 125cc is uncomplicated in comparison to others. A scant bit too much valve lash - an extra thousandth - is better than too tight. (that's what I've always been told)

[@spydie]

Yes, a noisy valve is a happy valve. Always set the exhaust at the extreme end of the tolerance for loose as it's the one that's likely to tighten up. The intake is not as fussy.

[@seankearney6915]

Nice Video, I find it interesting to see how things have changed over the years. The C90 I had years ago the tappet cover was a big round circle. The Honda spanner was an open ended one so my first spanner bought for a specific task was a small 8mm ring spanner. They were a swine to do through the round hole and we didn't have one of those nice tools, but there was a tool like a short piece of pipe with a square hole in it and the other end had a hole to put the screwdriver through. You actually got enough tools in those days to do a plug, timing, points and remove a wheel. I think the darker bolt isn't as much that it is near the exhaust, but that after running oil probably lies around that one for a while as its the lowest one too.

[@spydie]

Hey Sean, Yep, I remember the short piece of pipe with hole in it and the hole to put the screwdriver through. Not only did you get enough tools to do all the maintenance on the bike, but the owners manual had fold-out sheet with a wiring diagram. Now we have to buy a shop service manual to see the wiring diagram. Also, on another note, I took the rear wheel off yesterday to install the 41t sprocket. It's a nightmare to get back on compared to the bikes. On the old one with drum brakes you took out a cotter pin and a nut to release the brake hub from the swingarm, pulled out the axel, took the chain off and it all came apart. With this one that damned disc brake monster, being between the swingarm and tire, is really in the way and getting it lined up while putting the wheel back on is frustrating at best. Also these damned chain adjusters are four times more complicated than they should be. The old style (hole through the center for axel bolt, and adjusting bolt against a bent metal tab on the swingarm) was so simple and did everything these new complicated ones do. Change is not always progress. Most of the maintenance on this new bike has taken a big step backward. Nothing is simple anymore, and there's no good reason to make this stuff more difficult to work on. The changes have added nothing good in term of maintenance.

[@seankearney6915]

@@spydie Ah yes I remember now. I think mine had a big spacer so if that was dropped out you could actually move the wheel sideways so it disengaged the rubber cushions and the sprocket stayed there. That may have been specific to the Cub as it meant you could actually remove the rear wheel without removing the fully enclosed chain guards. I have resigned myself to not being able to get one of these now. Given the vague response I got from Honda UK I am guessing that they are not Euro 5 compliant so wont be allowed in the UK.

[@spydie]

@@seankearney6915 if Honda puts the updated Grom engine and maybe 5 speed tranny next year then it will be euro compliant.

[@zamdrang]

Thanks for sharing. With the temp gauge it would be interesting to see if the aftermarket finned valve covers actually have any effect on temps. I once lived in NM (Alamogordo/HAFB) and have great memories of exploring the dirt roads, beautiful state.

[@spydie]

So far the oil temps are fine, but we are not into our summer heat yet. But I doubt they'll need the expensive finned valve covers. Honda knows how to build engines. Although the old CT90/110 were finned better.

[@zamdrang]

@@spydie Yes agree 100% on Honda engines. Just the engineering nerd in me being curious whether those things actually make any difference in temps.

[@findingneutral]

Excellent tutorial 👌.

[@walterpalmer2749]

That ratchet box end wrench is real handy. Nice touch. Nice work. That valve adjustment gadget from Ebay is called what ? I see you addressed that question already.

[@opforsix1582]

So what is the new gadget size in mm for the nut and the square tappet screw? Need one but haven't found. Others available on AZ but different sizes available.

[@spydie]

The nuts are all the same, you just need to get a 9mm for the center. And you can get it here for $9.59: www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Engine-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-Valve-Screw-Wrench/383316911598?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[@colbydog8185]

Thanks for the video. Do you have the name and size of the valve adjustment tool? Thanks

[@spydie]

No, I only kept the bike 1500 miles and sold it to a guy in Poland. that tool is something I had lying around from my old CT90/CT110 days

[@MadsWorld34]

can you start posting the tools you use for when and if i ever find one i wont have to hurt for tools and product. thanks in advance.

[@michaelmorris1802]

Hey what's the wire around your spark plug wire... does that go to a Tach... LINK PLEASE!!! :)

[@spydie]

Yes, Tach. No link but you can find 50 of them on Amazon. Take your choice.

[@annafraley5388]

What MM is the valve tool.?? I see they come in 8mm, 9mm & 10mm… My 125 is coming next week, trying to get ahead of the game. Never a bad thing to do.

[@spydie]

That's a good question and I wish I'd mentioned it in the video. I sold that bike over a year ago and I have so many of those tools in different sizes that I don't remember which one I used. But you can google it and find the right tool I'm sure. After all, that's what I did to have the tool on hand when my bike came in.

[@xaviillas615]

A brand new motorcycle and already needed a valve adjustment? 🤔

[@spydie]

yep, all valves stretch for the first couple thousand miles or more from the very first time you start the engine. A lot of motorcycle manufacturers recommend checking them at the initial break-in oil change at 600 miles. Sometimes they've stretched, sometimes not. My Yamaha XT250 hadn't yet at the first check, but all my other bikes needed a little adjustment. Not enough to hurt the engine if you didn't, but the next check is thousands of miles away so it's always good to put them into specs initially, and set the specs on the high end to give them room to stretch some more. If the specs call for .008"-.010", always go for the .010". Just for safety. A noisy valve is a happy valve. Shim and bucket valves don't seem to need it as often as the old mechanical adjusters for some reason.

[@sadkistanbul1279]

ahahha