Cub Cadet 149 TLB Transformation Part 7 - Front End Loader build

[@LouCFur90]

It's looking great so far!

[@Isavetractors]

+LouCFur90 Thank you!

[@guypatts494]

Nice work

[@Isavetractors]

Thanks Guy!

[@jamesmanley6721]

hey Tim loving the build thanks for sharing. free tip; my mig is really cheap junk. i have found that the old school blowtorch makes a massive difference when welding thicker material. its capable of sitting wherever i put it to preheat the steel. this means i automatically melt deeper into the parent metal and the bead is also much better visually.

[@Isavetractors]

Thanks! Agreed. I now use a 200 amp welder and have an oxy acetylene set up for preheat when needed. Thanks for commenting!

[@jamesmanley6721]

oxy is expensive the old school blowtorch uses diesel or kero. And after getting used to it im not afraid to point it at something and come back 1/2 hour later, and if i forget it just shuts itself off after spending 50 cents of cheap readily available fuel.

[@mtwseneca]

Great to see you are using some arc and spatter protection in your project (besides doing a pro job on them)! Good example for the viewers.

[@Isavetractors]

mtwseneca thanks!

[@victorhendrix1702]

isavetractors do you live in Charleston SC

[@masongaming789ppp8]

mtwseneca ghdhfbbfvvbvvfffffffffffffffffff

[@chopperhedduck]

Nice, I like how you build things. I'll have to watch the rest of the vids.

[@farmitecture2060]

Cool man! I could use one of these for my 149. Thanks for sharing.

[@Isavetractors]

+Farmitecture Thanks and you're welcome! Final Part to this video series will be out next week! Thanks for watching!

[@railfanjames7699]

@@Isavetractors any tips for a first-time welder?

[@iwantosavemoney]

this is so awesome I have to say I can't afford or need a big tractor but this would fit the bill for me

[@guypatts494]

Do u use 1 pump to Run loader and backhoe

[@plasmaguy5]

Awesome now I know how im gonna build mine

[@tomkubusch9187]

Hi I have a 105 cub cadet and l just got a front end loader going to try to put it on hoping that it will work

[@zacharyulrich1]

looking good!

[@Isavetractors]

+Zach Ulrich Thanks!

[@jamessalyer3215]

Thought I should point out. The fittings you welded to your reservoir are malleable cast iron, not steel. The welding heat makes them extremely brittle. A better option is to weld a short pipe nipple, then screw the fitting on to the thread Great job so far though.

[@budatx09]

Thank you for the build videos!!!! If you could please answer me. How thick is the metal on the chassis of the tractor? It looks pretty thick, but can you give specific information. I’m wanting to do the same myself.

[@RobMonette]

Nice work dude!

[@Gravertrain]

Looks good. I'm not an expert here, but your welder tip sticks out of the nozzle way more than mine. Didn't look like flux core wire, so are you getting proper gas shroud. Also heard welder motor surging and probably changing the arc. Keep up good work. I'll be ordering parts for my K301 soon... waiting almost 2 weeks now for machine shop to measure my block.

[@Isavetractors]

Thanks for your comment. I am running flux core wire so my stick out is a lot longer than if I hooked up gas. at one point my generator bog down because it was about to run out of fuel. thanks for watching!

[@Isavetractors]

also on some of my longer welds my motor did surge a little. I tend to have trouble keeping my wire stick out consistent on the longer beads so that changing of amperage affects the motor's governor. by the end of this project I should have had enough practice to remedy my technique!

[@meandthemrs7403]

You do a pretty good job of cutting your stock with the tools that you have. BTW, stop twisting your reamer back and forth. Just turn it CW.

[@Isavetractors]

Thanks. Since filming this video, I have much better tools, and experience

[@rjmeca]

Bonjour aurais tu les dimensions des tubes merci

[@boatbuilder1954]

I didn't see where you mounted the sub frame for the uprights. I know it has to go behind the steering rod but how far back in relation to the foot e=rest? Also 1/2" diamer pins for the boom arms seems too small to ne. Have you had any problems with them bending/breaking? I know this video is 7 years old and you might not even remember Thanks

[@Isavetractors]

I put my uprights as forward as I could to allow my feet to be able to comfortably get in there. I thought so too about the 1/2" pins but they have never broken.

[@boatbuilder1954]

@@Isavetractors oh thank you so much for your reply. Beautiful build on the Cub. I have a 782 I am building a loader for and I will be watching your videos many times when I am building it! Thank you, oh I will probably be buying parts from you as well!😀

[@jayrhoads3147]

I wonder how that front axle held up?

[@Isavetractors]

Great! It's been 2 years and 80 hours

[@jayrhoads3147]

@@Isavetractors that's great! I have a case 220 I am thinking of modifying to run gravely attachments but the case front axle seems a bit weak compared to the gravely rider's axle. Like your vids good work! Keep them coming.

[@sullyj26]

OK I will go with the original plan of 8gpm pump for my loader build. what size cylinders are you using?

[@caratcranker5874]

Getting the 1 inch round bar level? you are assuming the tractor is sitting dead level and parallel to a dead level floor. getting that rod dead parallel to the other components is what is needed. [35 second mark].

[@Isavetractors]

Tractor frame was level to the ground, so when the bar is level, it is parallel. Keep in mind this is a 400 plus hour project condensed into tiny little videos, so you obviously don't see everything. Thanks for watching.

[@caratcranker5874]

THanks Norman, you videos are very informing, I enjoy your quality of detail!.

[@carsrme0141]

Do you have a link to the hydraulic pump you used? The pump iam using i think is way to big for my setup iam blowing front seals out of it.

[@Isavetractors]

I use the 4 to 8 gpm gear pump. I thinks its concentric brand from Northern Tool

[@ronduck2812]

I looked for ignition coils 22hp vtwin Tecumseh and seri> >

[@deankraemer9786]

Can I get a picture of each set of plans and pages of drawings so I can build a loader and backhoe thanks.

[@Isavetractors]

You can purchase at: www.loaderplans.com and www.backhoeplans.com

[@foodgenuis1696]

hello I'm new to fixing mowers and I have a cub 1968 124 it has spark when I take the plug off and turn the key. compression seems perfect. It also has a good new carb and gas i think gas is getting in the mower? any ideas what I should get or do to fix this issue?

[@Isavetractors]

+Will Klaer Hi Will. Firstly welcome to the very rewarding hobby of bringing back old garden tractors to life. So is the problem it's not starting? You should go to www.kohlerengines.com and download the free service manual for your K Series engine. Next, you want to check the point gap, see my channel for a how to video, and then check the valve clearances. Also confirm that your fuel tank shut off valve is open and fuel is indeed flowing to the carburetor.

[@foodgenuis1696]

+isavetractors Thank you so much for your advice. It was really silly what was wrong. I was getting a very yellow faint spark. I read online that the spark should be blue I just got a new spark plug and my tractor fired right up. It was a rookie mistake.

[@Isavetractors]

+Will Klaer it happens! please subscribe to my channel for lots of videos on these old tractors. also if you ever need parts we're the guys! I recommend you change the points, condenser, air filter and spark plug every year. you want to ensure complete combustion for best long lasting performance. thank you for saving the tractors!

[@foodgenuis1696]

+isavetractors ohh definitely, I saw your site and you have the best prices I have seen, also I do like the verity. I told my friend at work who also has old cub cadet with k series engines as well.

[@thestigmach1984]

I would mind building one of those for my 1250. what kind of weight does it handle?

[@Isavetractors]

I can pick up easily 500# with the loader, and with the backhoe I've dug out pretty large stumps with it. The total weight of the machine is estimated at about 1800#

[@thestigmach1984]

isavetractors don't really need a backhoe but the loader would be great. can you remove it from the tractor to use other attachments or is it welded on? I'd like to be able o remove it so I can use the snow blower or blade. I'm thinking maybe using the current system for attachments on front so I can do that. not sure how strong the clip part is though.

[@Isavetractors]

the stig mach 1 the backhoe is pinned to a subframe by 4 pins. it can be removed but I would imagine it would be a real pain. I don't intend to take it off.

[@danbeckley3140]

ok Ty

[@jhitt79]

I have a factory quickway loader loader that was originally on a Sears Suburban. I plan on putting this on my Cub 1650. It would be great (and greatly appreciated) it you could make a video detailing the subframe of your loader. You don't really spend much time on it. I see in this video the angle iron tabs that are drilled for bolting to the frame. But do you attach it other than that, (besides the angled arms to the front)? I'm curious if you tie it into the rear of the frame or axle as well. Thanks. Keep up the good work, I enjoy the videos.

[@Isavetractors]

Check out this video of my Ford LGT 145 with Kwik Way Loader. It will show what you're looking for and may be better information than this cub build: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJ7XpKCcrNVnmdE

[@521farmer]

Howdie wonderin if ya Sell Pumps For Down Shaft Engines for The Hydraulics How Much Thks for your time Farmer

[@planetjr3832]

Where do you get the bushing stock for the loader from?

[@521farmer]

Howdie Keep up the good work for small People willing to learn from you thank you How do ya build a Bucket from scrap how Big ? keep us Posted thks Farmer

[@zacharyulrich1]

just wondering how much did all the steel cost?

[@Isavetractors]

+Zach Ulrich I bought a lot of steel enough to make 3 loaders! I think I've spent about $1,000 on steel so far. So for one loader maybe $300 - $400 in steel. I just bought the hydraulic components and that cost me about $1,000.

[@boperry3551]

How much did the front loader cost to build?

[@DarrenCharron]

That was awesome instruction I am just getting ready to build mine and you have been great help Thank you I'll post my build when I start in a couple weeks. Thanks again and I gave you a big thumbs up and subscribed too!

[@Isavetractors]

You're welcome! I am glad you enjoyed the video! Have fun with your build!

[@kayvonmansouri]

Are you running the welder from a generator? if so how many peak watts?

[@Isavetractors]

Yea this project I used a 4000w generator and a 140 amp welder. I now use a 200 amp welder from a 50amp wall outlet.

[@DoRC]

You may want to fix the engine on your welder. That constant pulsation has got to be making your welds harder than they need to be

[@Isavetractors]

Do R/C! Yes i retired that unit during filming of this. Now I use a unit that runs off of wall power.

[@flagstaff866]

What welder are you using?

[@simplicity7006]

looking good. how much of a pain was it getting the rear end back in the tractor. ive never pulled one from a cub but i know the wheel horse and simplicity are easy.

[@Isavetractors]

It was a little bit of a pain. I have removed several since the video so I have gotten better at it.

[@adamroberts5876]

Just found your channel. You should come back to KZbin

[@Isavetractors]

Working on it!

[@Iamphuster]

I'm gathering supplies for a snow loader attachment for a Frankenstein 18hp 1990 Craftsman.. My drawing templates so far are smaller versions of old Ford tractor loader implements. Something I just don't get, looking at every type of loader, they all use extremely long rams for the main lift. I am guessing here, but I think John Deere cylinders are about 1 ton total capacity, and guessing again the rams have an 18 inch stroke.. I have a nice pair of 2-3 ton shorties, but they only have 8-10 inches of height gain.. Can I mount them closer? Is there a formula out there I can use? 95% of my use for it is for snow moving, the rest as a lazy man wheel barrow, maybe some light grading work following a rototiller, so I don't need anything as powerfully built as yours here. Still, I'd really like to know some of this math so I'm not messing up, grinding mistakes off, messing up, etc. I have to use what I can get my hands on, and the pair of them for $50 was too good to pass up. I can't afford $150 apiece and have a loader by next winter.. Any ideas where I can look for the math to see if I'll get the overall height I need out of these shorties?

[@jhitt79]

P Huster don't know if you've finished your loader project yet, but you could easily make full scale templates out of cardboard of the uprights and the loader arms. Mock them up on the floor, with a pivot where it should be. Then use a tape measure to measure the rams closed and extended. And should be able to figure it with no math involved.

[@geirbrathen6928]

Do you have drawings on front loaders for sale?

[@Seacaptain58]

Hey Norman, great video, I am starting on my second front end loader. This one I am working on now is Cub 1650 and the design of the loader is just about the same as yours. I do have a question, did you have any problems with the brackets that raise and lower the mower deck? Also, you deal with vintage engines, I just rebuilt a 19kt kohler series II, if anyone is interested, the connecting rods are the same as on the Kohler M20.

[@Isavetractors]

Hi Cliff. Thanks for your comment. I cut all the mower deck brackets off and removed them. I added a foot control hydro lever where they once were. We are currently in production of our own brand of connecting rods for the KT19, M20 engines!

[@skylershotts5189]

Awesome job! Do you happen to have a parts list from when you built the loader? I’m also confused on how to plumb the hydraulics. I’m going to be putting a loader on my 149!

[@Isavetractors]

www.loaderplans.com will answer all of your questions!

[@redneckawesomeness3825]

not to be mean but better take it easy on horsing that grinder. trying to force it through will cause it to blow up. run a small notch with it where you want to cut and then let the grinder cut it at its pace. also when you throw dust like that your putting too much twist on the disk that weakens it which could cause it to explode

[@ipekmehmet18]

merhaba ben türkiyeden size mesaj atıyorum. kepçe yapımınızı çok beğendim. projeyi meil atma imkanınız var mı ?

[@danbeckley3140]

what would you charge to build me a loader for my 1250 cub cadet garden tractor

[@danbeckley3140]

if you could reply at 3307717506 ty Dan Beckley

[@Isavetractors]

I'm sorry but I don't build them for others. I am not set up to build them in any quick fashion. You can purchase plans from www.loaderplans.com and check with a local fabricator.

[@paulyoung8849]

Im guessing you jave a pc by now?

[@Isavetractors]

Still no Plasma Cutter but I do have an oxy acetylene torch set up now. I still use angle grinders and bandsaw most of the time

[@sullyj26]

Im building a loader on a Montgomery wards 16 and have a 20gpm vane hydraulic pump that was given to me...do I need to buy a loader valve the equivalent to that or can I get by with a 8 or 10 GPM valve

[@Isavetractors]

john sullivan phew 20 gpm is way too much. you will need to get a valve that handle 20 gpm or else you will get too much heat. 20 gpm would be way too fast for a backhoe on a garden tractor

[@Isavetractors]

john sullivan you should get a smaller pump. using a loader even with 10 gpm would rock you all over the place!