Cub Cadet Hydro Relief Valve Leak: Repair and Replacement

If your Cub Cadet is leaving pools of Hy-Tran fluid when you park it, and leaving trails everywhere you drive, it's likely a bad Hydro Relief Valve. They are easily replaced, and repairable by skilled DIY'ers with a lathe and MiG welder.

[@cgeromi]

I just purchased a 1972 149. Original owner took amazing care of it. There's two things I'd like to fix for it to be perfect. The first is the handle for the pressure release valves no longer functions. Is there a way to relieve the pressure with that lever not working? Second issue is the steering wheel shaft has a lot of slop in it. Im reading there's a bearing/bushing that is easily replaced?

[@brianwilliams2533]

are both of the valves the same thanks Brian

[@TheSaturnV]

Yep, they’re identical.

[@eltonwarriner2897]

Who did you send the valves to for repair?

[@TheSaturnV]

On ebay: "timarca" is my go-to guy: eBay item number: 320670405175

[@kriegmeister1]

My 127 fires up at the turn of the key.

[@TheSaturnV]

Nice! My 147 does this same. This 882 is a 3 cylinder Kubota diesel and it takes longer to kick off.

[@lippylaura21]

say man my boss just gave me a 1650 cub cadet motor cranks and everything but wont drive he thought one of the valves were stuck fluid coming out of the top of hydro relief valve if i replace them do you think it would fix the problem

[@brianfitzpatrick9189]

Do you know anyone that can rebuild a walker lawnmower hydro? I think it’s a Eaton hydro.

[@TheSaturnV]

I wouldn't have a clue. You might head over to the MyTractorForums and see if they have a subcategory for "Walker" mowers. Lots of knowledgeable, friendly folks there.

[@koalakid07]

what is the other plug/valve for? my hyrdo lift on my 1450 will go up and extend but will not go back down. new fluid and filtet last week.

[@TheSaturnV]

One is for forward, the other reverse. Sounds like you may have an issue with the lift mechanism itself. Look underneath and see if anything is binding on the way down. My 882 lift gets hung up going down every now and then, and it's nothing to do with the valves.

[@2LateIWon]

@TheSaturnV I know what you mean I'll put up with something for so long then I'll snap and put everything else aside till I get it fixed. Good thing it was a pretty simple fix.

[@kenbehl2659]

If one of these valves are stuck can it cause the tractor to act like it’s stuck in Neutral?

[@danielhipkins8106]

I have about an eighth of an inch between forward and reverse could this be as simple as replacing these valves if not what would be your suggestion thanks for your help

[@TheSaturnV]

Do you mean you only have 1/8th inch between shifting from F to R? Is your tractor doing a jerky motion? You may have a worn linkage if so.

[@danielhipkins8106]

@@TheSaturnV thanks so much for your Speedy answering. Yes less than an eighth of an inch between F & R there is no jerking motion once it is in gear. If I remove the seat cover and grab the lever coming out of the hydrostatic transmission the one with the spring on it I have the same result only an eighth of an inch or less between F & R. Your help is greatly appreciated thanks

[@2LateIWon]

Great Job!!!! I have never come across this problem(yet) so I'm glad you did this vid. Thumbs up!!

[@kawibbyrule]

would these check valves cause your mower not to maintain a constant speed while mowing or if you come to a small hill cause you to stop wont be able to go up any hill or having to push the forward lever or revers leaver all the way forward to make it over the hill i have replaced all the fluid and it helped a little bit but still has the same issue please help!

[@judyramey9499]

Mine does the same thing,looking for answeres.....help!!!!!

[@mdsmith33]

Thanks for the tip. I hope it's going to be that easy.

[@MrBn45]

How do you change the hydro fluid on a cub cadet 782 without removing the rear plate?

[@TheSaturnV]

I don't recall if there's a drain plug or not, but the best way is to remove the rear cover. Gives you a chance to take a great look inside and check the condition. 99% chance there will be gunk you'll want to clean out. Do you have something preventing you from taking off the back cover?

[@MrBn45]

Yes there is. I cant locate a replacement gasket and I dont believe RTV silicon will hold.

[@MrBn45]

I actually located a replacement gasket final.

[@TheSaturnV]

Ok good deal.

[@kawibbyrule]

so i have a cub cadet 149 and I'm not sure what the problem is its a hydro it goes extremely slow forward but fast in revers is this right or have any idea what the issue is could it b that i have old fluid in there? I'm in the middle of putting a loader kit on it right now so I'm open to suggestions

[@fritz1022]

SaturnV nice video! i had the fluid leaking on my floor and couldnt find where the heck it was coming from. I hoped after watching your video that it was the relief valve, apparently it isnt because they are bone dry after moving it back and forth. there is fluid leaking out of the right rear hub. i removed the wheel, brakes, but cannot get the rotor off. any suggestions?? are the seals inside easy to replace/available?

[@HockeyGoon939]

Check where the hydrostatic pump bolts to the transmission. I know on the older models they used a cork gasket there they bolt together. After 20-30 years the cork falls apart.

[@nataliakalianna1332]

Hi, I have a 2006 GT2554 Cub Cadet lawn tractor w/ a low grade transmission fluid leak that has been going on for over a year now. At first it was intermittent after mowing, getting progressively worse w/time. Worse when tractor is facing up an incline & once it heats up. Looks like it's coming from 2 spots at the indents opposite the bolts that go through the middle seam of the transmission case housing. Is there a safe transmission fluid sealer I can add to the synthetic transmission fluid to get me through the rest of this mowing season? If so what is the proper dosage I should add? Anything I can apply to the accessible outside of the transmission fluid seam &/or indents to stop the leaking? Thanks!

[@TheSaturnV]

Natalia Kalianna HI, I never recommend any kind of additive in an attempt to seal leaks. Not in cars, cycles or mowers. Hydrostatic drives are typically tough units, but it's basically a pump and you never want any goo in a pump! I'd recommend going to mytractorforums.com and asking this question in the Cub Cadet section. Someone there will be much better than me to diagnose problems on a newer Cub. Good luck to you! :)

[@timothycor123]

I have an old 682 sitting back in the field with no motor on it looks similar man.! Great video

[@TheSaturnV]

@z978ady Jerky motion is likely from being low on fluid, which is a chronic issue due to the leaky valves. They pump out your fluid pretty quickly as you drive around, and leave pools when you park. It's easy to blow through a bunch of that expensive HyTran fluid this way, so might as well fix the valves sooner than later.

[@466htrd]

I have a 1811 Hydro, luckily the relief valves are still good. My hydro pump leaks around the drive shaft seal in the charge pump. It only leaks while the tractor is running though. Every time I shut it down I have to wipe the oil filter, and front of the pump off with a rag. Hopefully the shaft inside the charge pump isn't worn out to bad When i decide to fix the seal.

[@TheSaturnV]

There are seals on all four "sides" of the hydro assembly. One each front and back, plus the trunion shaft on each side. Be aware there is an O-ring on the charge pump itself, which could very well be your source of trouble. Once you go to the trouble to replace these, do not forget to replace the pump-to-unit CORK GASKET (notorious leak source) and finally go ahead and do the axle carrier/stub shaft seals.

[@mdsmith33]

Who did you use? I think I have the same problem on my 1250. Need to pressure wash it first to confirm it.

[@rwdeitrick]

Thanks for the video. I have a good pool under my tractor and thought it was the return tube I will check the valves soon. Do the 2 different valves interchange? I have one with a pin on top and one like you got on another tractor

[@wyattklingensmith8862]

That's a really nice tractor you got

[@thegood6003]

Thank you Wyatt. Still have it and working it all the time. Thanks for tuning in.

[@jburdine]

wonder if this is the same problem I am having with my HDS 3185... will check further. if it is the same problem, does the guy on eBay still repair them?

[@TheSaturnV]

I hope you've solved this since I missed your comment. For others reading this, the ebay seller is still going strong under the name "timarca." As of April 2015, he's officially closing in on 1,000 repair jobs sold. www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-Auto-or-Manual-relief-valve-REBUILD-SERVICE-/320670405175?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9721237

[@jburdine]

not yet... having to replace a pto kit, now. its going to be season of repairs.

[@byronmill]

J Burdine This Cub has a Sundstrand 15U hydro. Your 3185 has a completely different hydro and does not use these valves.

[@byronmill]

byronmill The most common area of leaks on your tractor is the o-rings where the hydraulic lines connect to the valve body on the deck lift control valve.

[@markfothebeast]

byronmill Thanks. My deck keeps falling. I bet that's the issue. Steering cylinder has crud all over it as well.

[@ShnitzlHaus]

need to get me a cub diesel! so why do you need a lathe? to cut off the tip of that valve? what do you do with your old ones

[@TheSaturnV]

@montecarloss85HO Yep, but I sure appreciated your offer to refurbish the valves. How's the Cub collection these days?

[@jeromewright45]

Hi,Who is it that will do the valve rebuild ? ours 1812 is leaking.thk

[@TheSaturnV]

Look at J Burdine's comment below. Link to the ebay auction. $35 to rebuild, well worth it.

[@machtube2]

@TheSaturnV Hello Saturn V: Loved watching your video on the valve replacement. This is Mark, I'm the guy from E-bay that repaired your valve. To answer a ? in the video. I use a tig welder. I'm sure the mig would use to much heat to join the parts with the extra wire feeding out of it. I don't use filler rod either.This keeps the weld nice and small. Also, I wanted to point out that I now carry a "new valve" that is rebuildable. "NO LATHE NO WELDING" See my ebay for details. Thanks, Mark C.

[@Chooman69]

Mein Chewy is digging this diesel.

[@TheSaturnV]

Hey glad it gave you some ideas. Sounds like you do have a leaking axle seal. I'm not sure on which model you have, but on the 1980's and older tractors changing the axle seal is not all that tough. I'll send you a message about the how-to.

[@joeaverager]

I'd like to know more about the axle seal replacement. Mine are definitely leaking.

[@TheSaturnV]

@IHcubcadet Yes, these are the autos. I shot some video discussing the manual vs. auto valves but the whole thing drug on too long. The manual valves are repairable by a similar method.

[@MrGitrdone41]

@montecarloss85HO What model are they?

[@edzgarage]

Nice job Saturn! I do like that diesel beast.

[@TheSaturnV]

@2LateIWon Hey thanks. I put up with the leak for awhile but couldn't stand it any longer! :)

[@MrBn45]

What did you use for fluid to top it off with?

[@TheSaturnV]

On this tractor I'm using Traveller Universal fluid from Tractor Supply Co. bit.ly/1BH82PX Purists will say only use IH/CASE Hytran Ultra, but this fluid says right on the label it's a direct replacement. Much cheaper, and comes in 2 gallons which is just about what a Cub Cadet takes (7qt).

[@TheSaturnV]

@Titliest07 Good deal. If it does happen, the rebuilds are only $30 and it takes no time at all to swap'em out. With the new viton O-rings, I should be set for a long time.

[@TheSaturnV]

@edzgarage Thanks Ed. My step-by-step videos are not up to par with your BMW stuff, but I'm trying.

[@TheSaturnV]

One valve controls forward and the other reverse. As a test, you may try to swap the valves (they're identical) and see if the condition reverses itself, then you'll be able to rule out the valves. The next thing to check is your hydrostat linkages. There are some adjustments that can be made, springs that may be worn out and a handful of other reasons your linkage may not be working right that would cause your problem. Hope you get it figured out.

[@machtube2]

Thanks again for mentioning me on this video. Just wanted to let everyone know that we countersink the area where the end cap sits and we re-crimp it. no longer weld it. mark C. Machtech direct

[@felixnungaray3253]

What is your ebay store i have 2 valves that are stuck open.

[@TheSaturnV]

They do. One side is forward, the other reverse and the valves are identical. As far as the one with the pin, that is a manual valve, the other an automatic. The older machines, like the narrow frame 147's, 100's, etc. have a lever on the side that is attached to a spring lever inside that pushes down on those valve buttons to release pressure. The larger valve is an automatically functioning valve and is a direct replacement. Lots of folks replace their old manual valves with the autos. HTH!

[@TheSaturnV]

Thank you, glad you liked it. And yes, that is great info about his website. He's a great resource for keeping these old garden tractors up and running. He also sells rebuild kits for the Cub steering boxes, and those parts are also of really good quality.

[@ddteamrc6461]

Can you please tell me the information of the person who you get the rebuilt valves from on ebay? Thank you so much! Great video!

[@machtube2]

Im the Ebay Guy. my email address is [e-mail]

[@R3TR0R4V3]

@@machtube2 it's been a while, but do you still rebuild/service these? I'll shoot you an email in case you don't see this comment. Thanks!

[@1968hambone]

great job Saturn......love that 882 bro!

[@mattj.4533]

Nice job. I wish I had college professors that taught as well as you do.

[@TheSaturnV]

Ha! Thanks Matt.

[@TheSaturnV]

Thanks for posting this, another very good option for these valves.

[@TheSaturnV]

@mbyr31 Thanks man.

[@TheSaturnV]

@1968hambone Thank you HB. It is definitely my favorite piece of equipment here on our city farm.

[@TheSaturnV]

@ShnitzlHaus You've already got an awesome diesel young man, let others have a chance! :P Yes, the lathe is to cut the crimp / lip off the end, which allows the tip to pop out, along with all the the innards. The O rings and whatnot are replaced, then the tip is snapped back in place and tiny tack welds finish the job. You can see why you want to be sure and do the welds right.

[@TheSaturnV]

@Malchren His name is "timarca" search ebay: Cub Cadet relief valve service.

[@TheSaturnV]

@mdsmith33 He's on ebay with a continuous listing. Search "cub cadet relief valve rebuild service" and it should take you right to the auction. You will send your valve(s) in and he will rebuild them and ship your exact valves back. For a total of $70 I have two freshly rebuilt valves and the garage floor under my 882 stays bone dry. :D

[@alfredattard5320]

⁰

[@500passwords]

nice work man :)

[@jtraveny]

i want one of those cub cadets

[@Malchren]

What s the guys eBay name?

[@jamesevans7206]

Mal Chre

[@Titliest07]

luckily this hasnt happened to me yet!

[@jtraveny]

i like those keys

[@TheSaturnV]

@Chooman69 Jawohl!

[@bennyhewitt6850]

have a 682 cub need hydro relief valve repair do you have the man phone number or how can contact him

[@OxXGarfieldXxO]

As an update for cub owners: L J FLUID POWER INC 10118 SOUTH M-43 HIGHWAY DELTON, MI 49046 ....Has the manual valves for $45 and the automatics like shown in this video for $55. All the cub communities are pointing to this company of late.

[@TheSaturnV]

@500passwords Thank you Fiver.

[@TheSaturnV]

"timarca" is my go-to guy: eBay item number: 320670405175

[@wyattklingensmith8862]

That's a really nice tractor you got