Culligan Water Softener Repair

[@benroberts4464]

Got my over priced kit in the mail and will be doing my rebuilt this weekend. My mark 89 has a different bell crank which broke which is what prompted me taking the cover off. Thanks for posting

[@janames704]

Thank you for saving me $$. Paid Culligan $150 a few years ago and same problem came back. I probably haven 't had soft water for a while. I must have finally entered the right search to find this video showing me how to take it apart & do the lubrication. The same seal you had 2nd from the end was damaged, I moved it to the first position for now & got my system working. yay. guess I'll have to see if I can locate the part if it sticks again.

[@HauntingtonBeachManor]

This is an OLD post but saved me $5700 as they wanted to replace my entire system. I found my seal PAck was binding up and not letting the motor turn so was throwing an ERR 1 code. gonna buy a new one but got silicone grease and lubed it for now and it is working great. Thanks

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

Upon performing this repair I was successful! I was able to repair this without spending $400 on the eBay seal pack. I will document my findings here for your benefit. Everything that could go wrong did go wrong however, I responded instead of reacted. First of all this KZbin video made me very familar with my softner enough where I could feel confident enough to take it apart and get it back in working condition in less than 7 minutes. I had to do this multiple times during the repair process. My original issue was that the piston was seized up so hard that to move in the sealpack it broke the white plastic in the metal tray that slides the piston in and out. Fortunately or unfortunately to pull the seal pack out after only watching part of this video I thought it would be easy to remove. After I removed the front casing and electrical components, I took some plyers and went at it pulling on the black plastic front of the seal pack. It wouldn't budge, so I pulled on the metal piston and I ripped the tip off the piston such that it would never work again. I read in the comments here that if your seal pack is stuck that you should take the softener off of the water supply turn it around and hit the back of the seal pack with a PVC 1" pipe and tap it with a hammer to knock it out the front. So I did that, Upon getting it out, I noticed multiple pieces of black plastic on the ground. My seal pack was getting brittle it seamed. So I took super glue and reattached the plastic quarter circular piece I could line up. I could not line up the other piece for one reason or another. | The next problem was the piston I broke, or rod or shaft, whatever you want to call it. I tried reconnecting the piece with JB Weld as they claimed you know 5700 PSI of pull strength and it just was not enough, and the piece was too small. I tried low temp aluminum welding and I couldn't get the aluminum to stick to this piece of rod/piston/shaft because I believe it was probably non-ferrous metal of some type. I ended up getting a #4 shallow thread screw and Tap at Ace Hardware, along with a small metal drill bit and put the rod in a vice and poured some heavy oil on it and went to town with my drill, making a small hole. I ended up using a screw I found laying around as this rod, once drilled, was grinding my tap down to smooth edges. The screw I used was an old steel screw from a toilet paper holder and it had thick wood style threads but it was stubby and fit perfectly into the white tray. I thought it would be good because it was the perfect size and I know "They don't make em like they used to". It held perfectly and along with my sealpack and repaired piston that I was about to silicone spray, it was going to move much easier now. Another thing I noticed is not only is there a seal pack but there is also a black cap that comes out with the seal pack that also has Orings. I found my seal pack orings were mostly okay except they were a bit loose fitting. Well after I fixed the piston and put everything back together, I had water spray fast out the front of the seal pack, turns out some of my orings got cuts from sliding it back into the unit. I thought based on this video that I would clean my seal pack, silicone spray it and replace the Orings. Easy enough right? So I went down to my local Ace Hardware had a guy help me pick out some O rings when he found one that looked like the perfect size, right? WRONG. It was too thick but I was too thick to actually try the O ring on the seal pack I brought with me. DON'T GO BY LOOKS you need to VERIFY. So being discouraged when I drove home and found out the seal outer diameters were way to thick to fit back in I took a nap to re-center. Myself. Somewhere around this time I dropped the electronics because they were unplugged and sitting on my softener and one of the wires on the transformer literally broke away from itself and I had to re-solder it. No big deal, I am good with electronics, anyway. I go with my brother to Home Depot and take apart their different packs of Orings to figure out which ones will fit since they are all too small and we found #18 Danco O ring stretches just about perfect maybe 1/16" too big. So we bought a 10 pack of those for $3 and we also found #17 stretches almost perfect but might be 1/16" too small. So we bought a 10 pack of those. I ended up going with the #18 Oring and silicone sprayed the whole thing up. I only replaced the Orings that needed changed because they were a bit bigger. As soon as we got everything back together, we added water and it sprayed out the back. Oh no! My cap Oring went bad from going in and out. So I took the back off and water off again and added a #18 Oring to the cap but for some reason it kept going in crooked and we couldn't get it 100% right but it was good enough to hold water so we put it back together and watch the softner go to work. Then now the water intake as a tiny slow drip from constantly being slid in and out of the softner. but I am not worried about it right now. Anyway. DOs and DO NOTs Do buy #18 Orings in a 10 pack for $3 at home depot Do buy $7 can of silicone spray to ensure piston rod smooth moving and putting seal pack back in with slightly larger Orings Do use 1" diameter PVC pipe to smack seal pack out from behind. Do Not Eyeball O ring at the store, its too thick, they don't sell the perfect O ring, its a conspiracy. Do Not sit electronics on top of softener, its dangerous, you will knock them off on to the concrete. Do Not pull on piston rod when trying to remove seal pack This was on my Culligan Estate II Water softener from what I gather is very similar to these other Mark style ones, and perfectly matches OPs.

[@TheOwnerConsultant]

This worked great, the only thing I would add is when I pulled out the parts they were pretty caked up, so I soaked them in toilet bowl cleaner (Do this outside do to the fumes), then moved the o-rings over one space and regressed with "Slilcone" not grease as you said, very important with o-rings! Working like a champ...big thank you!

[@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305]

I know this is 9 yesrs old but thanks. This video along with other stuff on google helped me fix my 812 culligan. I bought this 30 year old house.. it came with it.. but was bypassed.. it would backwash when i plugged it in and manually hit recharge.. but it wouldnt suck salt from the tabk.. i took the thing apart.. two o rings were bad. and boy or boy was it clogged with sand and mud sediment. Good thing i installed 4 big blue 20 inch filters so this shouldnt happen again. Works now. I jist hope the resin is still good lol..

[@teesalmon]

Thx for the feedback. I know that guys that do this all the time can probably do this with their eyes closed in 1/4 the time. The problem with home owner repairs is that this is usually a one time operation, so you always have to learn a lesson or two the hard way.

[@birdman8211]

You did a great job on your video, I had the exact same problem and had to replace the seals on seal pack assembly. Culligan wanted $75.00 for the kit and after looking at the seal pack assembly I thought I would give it a try going to a hardware store and buy the o-rings. I was surprised they had them for .75 cents each. I had a huge buildup up of iron deposits that took forever to clean up but it was worth it. I installed all the new o-rings with no problem. I couldn't figure out how reinstall the drive motor. Your video really helped with that part. Thanks

[@deweydecimal3886]

Birdman82 Hello...is there a part number or a way to order the Orings from that hardware store...it would be much appreciated thks

[@dannynoble4873]

thanks for the video, this helped me discover that the valve body stem is a lot bigger than i thought.

[@roys476]

Nice video. It's easiest to remove the head from the resin tank. Unscrew the Phillips head bolts from the top metal bracket above the head and the head slides off from back to front. Some newer models have another bolt holding the head on to the resin tank fittings but my 30 year old Mark 89 was purely a friction fit. Remove the horseshoe clip at the back of the head and use a section of 1" PVC pipe to drive the piston out either front to back or back to front, it doesn't matter. I used a 3# Harbor Freight plastic mallet. The new piston kit already has silicone grease on it so there is no need to lube it before installing it. The $100 Culligan kit also has a replacement white housing above the main valve pack as well as the tan needle valve so it's wise to replace those. I also replaced the O-rings on the fittings between the head and the bypass valve which cost an extra $6. It's a good idea to remove the top triangle plate to clean out the eductor (salt sucking) screen and use a thin wire to make sure the tiny hole in the tan eductor port is clear. 20 minutes later everything was reassembled, working and hopefully good for another decade. If you're not inclined to do this, just call Culligan and have a service tech do it. It will probably cost an additional $100-$150 but it's worth it. I did that the first time, the second time I brought the head in to Culligan to have them replace the parts, this time I just did all the work myself.

[@69DUDLEY]

Me too I did drain the resin 5 bags Home Depo holds 6 so since it’s a plant killer just did separate with potato gunny Sac did not see the sensor was gonna clean it but it was on timer at two a week ok no leaks no rings replaced o mine is the 812 Yea I was expired resin I used a UV light clearly expired but looked ok without UV light

[@billamatneek3625]

I'm having difficulty pulling out the seal pack assembly. I've loosed the Eductor Port Cover, removed the DLSM tube and the brine solution tube, all in the name of relieving pressure. But I cannot pull the seal pack assembly. I can unscrew it's face plate, but what comes out then is only up to the first o-ring. I stick my finger in to try and get a purchase on what is still inside, but cannot remove it. How do I get the entire seal pack assembly out, please? P.S. MANY THANKS for this video. It's really helpful.

[@billamatneek3625]

Got it out! "If at first you don't succeed, try, try again." - Thomas H. Palmer

[@teesalmon]

Sandra, I am not at home at the moment. If I get a chance I will look at the manual. Check to see if the motor has returned to its home position. You should be able to manually index the one control wheel by hand slowly to make sure the motor and cam are at least pushing the internal control valves back and forth to the various positions.

[@ebbyt00]

this video helped to troubleshoot my water softener that would not draw brine instead it was putting water to the brine tank, what I did was I moved the bad white seal to the end and the good one the front where the piston handle is, that might be temporarily fixed but it started working

[@michellejae67]

Thanks for the video, and thanks to those who added helpful comments. Mine just has a slow leak from the drain hose, otherwise works fine. I will add this to my list of things to do on a rainy day.

[@Digitalinkarts]

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have the Silver Series. My last water bill was $300. Pretty high from the usual $90. Come to find out the unit keeps pushing out water. I have taken it all apart and inspected. Everything looks good. I have not dis assembled the mechanics from the face yet and get in side. I do not know if anything there is causing the issue. I havent seen that piston with the rings yet. I guess I need to take it all apart.

[@hoghogwild]

Probably leaking o-rings allowing water up and out of the drain hose..

[@goodboy2022002]

If you still have the water softener could you do a video on how to set the time and date and backflush. Thanks

[@Mrx-dh5ti]

just found your video ,,, THANK YOU

[@spelunkerd]

Tom, even after 8 years this is the most detailed illustration of what I need to do, thanks for showing us the way. When I pulled on the seal pack plunger, only part of the seal pack (shown in your left hand at 12:57) came out with the piston assembly. Now I think I need to use a pick to pry the remainder of the seals out, if I can. As you say I'll get a better look when it is out, presumably I let it unthread itself in my effort not to break anything. Any insight?

[@teesalmon]

It’s been a long time since I took mine apart, but I thought there might be a plug on the back side that can be removed. Then possibly you can push the valve out.

[@spelunkerd]

@@teesalmon Thanks, man. after spraying silicone lube into the space I screwed the part that came out back in, pulled and it all came out. My experience was very similar to yours, my little white seals were damaged and binding. Damn Culligan for not selling the seals alone! Good companies don't need to soak loyal customers.

[@teesalmon]

Yea, those D rings are worth $0.25. I’ve heard of some people trying to use just flat washers. I’m having a hard time finding timers with the right configuration. My unit is 20 years old!

[@raymondhultay3576]

I replaced the valve assembly and brine valve with new parts; cleaned the venturi screen, water discharge orifice, tube and connecters going to the brine tank, but the water softener is not using salt. The float valve is OK and there is adequate water in the brine tank. The entire brine tank was emptied and new salt was added. Is there more to the venturi that must be cleaned besides the screen? The motor and cam are operating properly. I appreciate your comments.

[@dhamblet7495]

I just bought a used Mark 815 softener and a green sand filter. Both have the same heads on them. Both need to be rebuilt. I pulled them both apart today. Thanks to the video it was a snap. Hardest thing was getting the little clip back on the cam driven plunger. Looking for a fair priced source for the parts.

[@jamesgriffith9728]

Hello and thank you for the video I had the same thing happen to me two of the seals some how cut it made a grinding sound at the time, I took mine apart the same you did. I went to Culligan to find out I would need to order the complete assembly at about the same cost crazy. I got a hold of one of the guys that worked for them at one time and had some of the parts I needed as we were talking I told him about taking the housing apart and he told me that they take the assembly apart from the back not the front I have not tried this yet but I just told my wife I need to lube the unit so we don't have the problem again. Hope the info helps you for the next time and others that have the same problem.

[@mattd436]

the only place to get the seal pack and the other parts is from culligan. My dealership sells the kit for $63. The price he quotes of $185 is what we (my dealership) charges to change it for you. The seals in the seal pack and on the brine piston are really the only things to break on these softeners. Other than that they can easily last for 20 years without problems.

[@teesalmon]

There is a bypass valve on the back that should bypass the entire softener. That should stop "waisting" water. What part broke? The main valve has a movable piston that is connected to the small metal rod that "sticks out" of the valve body. Did the part of the valve body break? If U send me your email address I can send U an installation manual that may give U more insight of how the softener directs water in the different stages. A dealer has commented that sells the assembly for a fair price.

[@beayn]

Thanks for this video. My softener is the mark 88 and it is leaking to the drain constantly. I don't want to call a repair guy because it will cost too much. My other problem is the bypass valve - it is completely seized and won't budge at all, so I'll have to turn off the water at the pump to do any work.

[@josefguzman4831]

Great info. Thanks for taking the time.

[@jingminghe79]

Thank you for the video, I have the same white washer fault

[@THE_CHOAS_ENGINE]

so what's the best way to flush all the inlets etc of that top unit? Just spray a garden hose into the valve body opening and hope the sediment comes out???

[@zanna1s]

Sandra u have to take off the central valve and lubrificate or change their o-ring if are torn or broken... Your plant should be blocked in a step that download water And cant go to the next step 1)if the central valve cant move easily or 2) if this valve have some torn oring

[@mikebissonnette2649]

Where did you order that black piston kit from or do you have a link? Thx

[@teesalmon]

Google search it, you can get them from Culligan, but they are super expensive… maybe like $300. There are places online for less than $200. Still high for $20 worth of parts.

[@yhuide7521]

awesome! thanks for sharing this video. where did you get those parts BTW?

[@teesalmon]

Unfortunately I had to pay Culligan big bucks for hardly anything. If I did it again I might try a thick flat rubber washer. My softener is ancient. If it dies now I might just buy a new one. It is 21 years old. Just replaced the hot water heater too. It was not leaking, but after 21 years I just swapped it.

[@janetscott243]

how do you clean the heads in an older softener

[@teesalmon]

Unfortunately, I had to buy a kit from Culligan for the low low price of $185 !! I needed some $0.50 o-rings.The o-rings are really more like a D-Ring, so they may be impossible to find. They actually have more of a "T" cross-section with the bottom on the T creating the sealing surface against the piston. The bottom is a semicircle. I was determined to find the o-rings for dirt cheap, but I had to give-in since my water was becoming harder by the day.

[@garyhood7931]

Thanks for the video. My culligan softener has a high pressure leak between the unit and the resin tank. The connector collar screws are tight. Any ideas for the leak?

[@johncapron4074]

I assume the seal pack is universal for all Culligan units?

[@mjshreve1]

Matt where is your dealership? I need 2 of these kits and $63 is sooo much better than $185. Is there a part number associated with this kit?

[@lthrnfur]

Does anyone know where I can buy the resin tank filler tube for this softener? I was told by Culligan they don't just sell the filler tube, that I would have to buy a new tank. They replaced the resin in the tank under the "lifetime warranty" for $650, because it had already been replaced once, but that didn't fix my low water flow issue, tech told me that the filler tube was bad because my unit was 14 years old. I was told that the slots have collapsed because of age, he tried to open them up but told me this would be a temp fix and I needed a new complete tank as that is the only way to get the new filler tube.

[@MelissaBarnes-c9i]

Could u please help me reset my timer an tell me wat numbers I should be at.

[@julieannabbking2065]

Thankyou you very much ....I have been looking for this for a long time,,,,

[@edl7009]

How about posting the O ring sizes for the valve actuator and the ejector system.

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

I’m having a really hard time getting the seal pack out? I damaged the piston trying to pull on it? any advice

[@teesalmon]

There might be a plug in the back you can unscrew it push it out

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

@@teesalmon I sent you an email to your spam email you listed below if you could respond! I did get it out with your advice and the advice of the others about using a 1” pipe to move it. God bless you for all your support. I was wondering if you would sell me your old piston if you have not gotten rid of it yet. Thanks for your time!

[@truthblastbroadcasting391]

I fixed it with a screw on the end lol

[@xiaodongzhang8964]

Teesalmon, I have a piece of the valve broke, which holds the O-ring. Do you still have the old part so I can buy from you? Please let me know. Thank you.

[@gregholmlund5067]

I will check it out. thanks!

[@scristaldi1]

Thanks for this video. Much appreciated. I have a Culligan Mark 89. Just started a small leak between the device and the tank. Any ideas from anyone?

[@The_bazzer]

Ours won’t turn on the cycle, any fix ideas?

[@teesalmon]

A couple of things could be wrong. If you have a mechanical timer, they fail and the clock part just quits. I have a hard time finding this part with the correct gearing, etc. There are also switches that power the motor. You might also want to make sure the motor that runs everything is actually working. Oh, also there is a little slide on the bottom that pushes the valve in and out. I had one of those fail. I had a second i was stealing parts from. If that has failed, I did design a 3D printed version that would likely work, but I haven't tried it. I think I would make sure the timer motor is running, you can usually hear it, then look from the bottom side to make sure the little slide part I was referencing is OK. I would send a photo, but I don't know how to attach one.

[@The_bazzer]

@@teesalmon thanks a lot, I will have to dig into mine but worry it’s too old to fix…

[@gregholmlund5067]

great video. I have a Mark 100 that I am having a issue with. I have to manually push the 'regenerate' to cycle it. Even doing that, the water does not seem soft and I am using very little salt. I have not had to put any in for at least 4 months. Do you have any suggestions?

[@teesalmon]

Mine was not using any salt either. As for having to manually cycle, is the timer working? Certain timer positions make or break switches that power the motor, I would check to see if the switching is working properly with a volt meter.

[@jeffobst7659]

I have the same system. My unit is constantly backwashing. Only shuts off by pushing bypass. Any idea what would case that?

[@Eskino00]

Finally someone explained what the issue is. I have the same thing happening and am looking for an answer..... still looking

[@roys476]

In case you haven't already fixed it. It's most likely the valve pack (the black plastic housing with all the O-rings on it). $100 from Culligan which also includes the white housing above it and the tan needle valve that fits into the white housing. All O-rings should be changed out about once every 10 years. I also just changed the rear pipe adapter O-rings in my 30 year old Mark 89 for $6.

[@Eskino00]

What were the symptoms? You need to know this to troubleshoot

[@teesalmon]

Hard water, no salt was being consumed, and the timer/motor were OK. After that i just took it apart to see if anything obvious needed replaced.

[@baywords]

The main black piston; to take it out does it come right out? Or is it secured inside the chamber by the U shaped clamp that is hidden underneath the canaster pipe brace...??

[@teesalmon]

Repair manual emailed.

[@RttnBrthrsRacing]

How did you get the big valve out of the housing? I have an E01 error that will not reset and I think the issue is with the metal piston -- it does not slide in and out of the valve easy. I cannot pull the valve out of the housing to take it apart, clean and re-lube -- high iron content in our water and I fear its rusted in there. Any ideas??

[@teesalmon]

It has been a while, but I believe I just pulled the metal rod. Note, that one other viewer had the rod pull out, and this method did not work. However, I think there is a big plug on the opposite end that may be removed so you can push out the large valve from the backside. if you provide your email, I may be able to email you a repair manual.

[@cbartek63]

where did you get the o ring repair kit from ??

[@kristoferkarr7395]

I just pulled my seal pack out of my mark 89. it was installed in 88 and I have lived in the house for nearly 20yrs and never did anything with it. Now it won't get of backwash mode. Pulled piston out and it was corroded really bad. So I have been looking for total rebuild kits online and can't find one. Do you have to call Culligan direct to get any parts. Found a new seal piston on ebay but I want whole new seal pack assembly. Any place online to look?

[@rogerg4916]

If you have an older unit don't expect your local Culligan dealer to necessarily know how its put together. Mine didnt. I took it in, told them what the problem was (leak). They sold me the wrong gaskets.

[@michele1stgradetaylor946]

How do you stop the water from running It will not shut off

[@curmudgeoniii9762]

should be a shut off value at the rear of your system (red in color).

[@teddysharkey8595]

Will that make the mk 89 drain all the time?

[@om888]

Thanks, I used your video 3 years ago to replace a seal kit. At the time, water was constantly running out the drain. Now my problem is a leaking (hissing) sound in the valve somewhere, and salty tasting drinking water. Do you have a good enough understanding of the system to give me advice about what part may be leaking?

[@nigelmaybury4362]

Great video, thank you. Really helpful. I tweeted it :) Please tell or show us how you remove the outer assembly of the lower section that has the o-rings around that 2.5" long x 5/8" diameter main piston? My piston is plastic coated brass and has corroded to the point where it allows water to trickle continuously into the backflush line. :(

[@raulfuentes293]

I have a Culligan Medallist Series it is about 10 yrs old.I t was off time so I did fix the time and regenerate the system, but still there is no soft water the system is showing the right time I have regenerate the system a few time to no avail, there si a blue botton that says softwater and another red one that says push to bypass,the system was off time, I was told by Culligan to press the red botton to btpass I did that but I need to know if I need to press the blue botton to get soft water don't seems to enter the chamber. Do I need to retract the red one and push the blue?. Please help

[@carlosmorgan8123]

Just the seal where I can getting please

[@kylejenkins2215]

That main piston is called a seal pack. It’s cost is $66.18 at Culligan.

[@beayn]

Okay, so I took the softener apart, but my seal assembly did not come out entirely. Just the first half. The rest of it won't budge. I'm trying to figure out how to push it from the back. At the same time, I'm also working on the bypass valve that seized. I got it moving, but now it's leaking. I can't figure out how to take it apart.

[@teesalmon]

I have a repair manual I can email you if you post it in a hurry, I will be gone for a bout 24 hours soon. I need an email address.

[@beayn]

teesalmon I guess since they changed youtube to use google+ I can't find how to send you a private message and I'd rather not post my email here. I did manage to stick some hooks inside the hole and pull the rest of the seal assembly out. I cleaned it up, but couldn't find any silicon grease to use on it in any local hardware stores. Silicon spray lube, petroleum grease, and lithium grease were all I could find. At the suggestion of a mechanic, I used vegetable oil instead so that it won't break down the seals and isn't poisonous. Now it is back together and I let it run through its cycle, it is still leaking water into the drain. I have to grab the piston shaft and pull it out slightly further than the motor can to slow the flow. I have no idea what to do about it now. Everything is cleaned up, seals are all good, and it is still leaking into the drain... As for my seized bypass valve, I could not figure out how to get the o rings out of it, so I jammed it back and forth several times until it didn't sound quite so dirty inside. It is only leaking the odd drop now and then so it will have to do for now.

[@teesalmon]

Send and email to [e-mail], it is an email that is cluttered with SPAM

[@twu1966]

teesalmon Hi you have great video here. when I put my seal assembly did not come out entirely. just half of it, it must broken. How do I pull another part stuck inside? thanks

[@teesalmon]

Tom Wu I think there is a plug on the back side that can be removed to allow you to push the assembly out. Email [e-mail] and I'll send you a repair manual.

[@gb8771]

Any idea where I can get the seal pack?

[@Jerrypham2768]

I just called a local Culligan dealer close to where i live in Orange County California - the kit is quoted at $170 and sold over the counter at the store. I don't know yet what this kit comprises of. I got the address and phone number of that dealership/store by going to the Culligan main site and search for dealer location close to your zip code.

[@gb8771]

Thanks! We have one here in town. I had them replace the seals once and they screwed it up So I think Ill just do it myself this time around.

[@txtabby]

You guys might want to install a whole-house 10-inch water filter before the softener system. It may help with iron deposits.

[@benignobartolomebb]

hi just wondering where can i find a parts for this? any website?

[@benignobartolomebb]

I cant find any parts thats suck

[@jerryjohnson8318]

great video.I just got done working on mine, painful.

[@seareak8538]

I have a 10 x 40 Medalist TC. The shut offf valve with the red and blue caps is stuck and will not budge. Any suggestion how to resolve this problem, and does anyone have a copy of the Culligan repair manual to share?

[@sandralodato1548]

Hi thanks for the info, however just have a question. The system wont stop running now had to bypass it, ever had this issue, what do you think is causing this?

[@Bionicbunnywabbit]

If one of those seal fails it's better to just replace the whole thing. Those other seals will go bad eventually. And it is ridiculously expensive but over 8-10 years it's not bad if you budget 5-10 bucks a month for it.

[@publicmail2]

The white teflon last very long 20 years+ the new $200 seal pack comes with black inner rings that are rubber and are junk. Last maybe 2 years, so don't by it or reuse your old white seals if still good, anything but black ones. This comes from an experienced Culligan guy.

[@billamatneek3625]

There are many types of silicone sprays. They go from 100% silicone to 1.5%. Some dry to a hard film, some do not. Does anyone have a recommendation for silicone spraying the seal pack before putting it back in? MTIA.

[@teesalmon]

Matt, If I ever need a kit again, please give me the number of your dealership so I can purchase from you...

[@teesalmon]

I was looking for something like this too, and nothing existed and I figured others might find it useful. $175 for 2 odd sized o-rings should be ilegal. There should be a consumer protection law to prevent 1,000 times mark up on small appliance parts and things like this. It's not like it takes much warehouse space/rent to store o-rings. And, there is not much high tech Research and Development money that was required to design these parts. I have a repair manual if U want me to email it to U.

[@Iyersab]

teesalmon i am super upset with culligans as they charged me $209 for replacing the orings & piston and $129 for labor. As my special needs kid needed my assistance I was not around when he replaced the above parts (so he said) i was surprised that he changed the part so quickly as i was hardly away for 5-7mins! It didn't seem right to me! But alas the (jacked/hiked up) payment is already made :(

[@mofuld1]

looking to buy a seal pack can somebody provide me with a link

[@AliBandit1]

I live in Los Angeles. My Mark 100 with Aqua Sensor came up with a CS (Call Customer Service) code. After noticing the brine piston was binding and leaking, Culligan in Santa Ana wanted $300.00 for the seal pack. I replaced both but that did not clear the code. They told me to power down the system, unplug the circuit board then reconnect the power. At this point they said to reconnect the circuit board. CS code hasn't cleared. I've tried some other things which hasn't worked. I assume it's something different keeping the CS code. Last resort I called Culligan to come to the house which is $155.00 for a service call. Any other ideas from anybody I'd appreciate it. Thanks

[@teesalmon]

Did this get resolved? If not wondering how long you left this unplugged in case the board has a capacitor to prolong retaining information if power is lost? Also, if it has a micro controller it is alive or it would not send info. Check the circuit board for any obvious burns, cracked solder joints, or capacitors with bulging tops. It may have some relays that you can check also. Mine is a total mechanical timer, so I can't be of much help.

[@emptech]

Looks like I'm now one of the club, all I need are the white washers. Has anybody tried making the washers? They are very close to the size of a common hose bib washer but thinner. I measured about .990" OD, .606" ID, guessing they should be about .095" thick or less to remain flexible. Is it worth making a punch and die? Jim

[@carlosmorgan8123]

Yes Culligan don't load a internet load information, you right

[@cbartek63]

ok thank you

[@carlosmorgan8123]

The problem is THE CULLIGAN MAN SERVICE they want use that service. That is the reason I change for NEW SYSTEMS with more information in the web.

[@curmudgeoniii9762]

I forgot to ask if anyone would know the size of the o rings on the seal pack assembly?

[@TheBoomtown4]

Nope, lemme think and get back to you in 5 years.

[@curmudgeoniii9762]

Green Bay area store wanted 199.58 for seal pack, service charge 98.00 for 15 minutes then parts and labor. Are you kidding? And I could not find any place to purchase the parts so I could do. Soooo... I will be purchasing a different water softener ... never want to deal with these ripoff Culligan smucks again ever.

[@teesalmon]

$63 is fair, $185 for parts and labor is fair. The dealer I went through did not offer that deal.

[@dave27909]

im a cullgan repairman and this guy is ass backwards pull the clip on the cam remove cam,now remove lil screw w/phillups oh hell take screw out of microprocesser and move aside then the cam.now remove larger phillups screws under drive motor mve all to the side,grab hold of bottom piston and pull then the same with brine pison(the smaller one) on top replace with new and reverse process putting back together the hardest part is putting the lil clip back on the cam lol

[@Bionicbunnywabbit]

Something that would like life easier is to remove the top white plastic piece! Simply take a flat blade screwdriver and push the c clip back and pull the white piece away

[@ThrillKing5]

I'm just going to keep it short & simple. I had to get a water cooler for the office I work at & spoke with the Irving, TX location. Now I am stuck paying the early termination fee out of pocket. My experiences with Culligan from the beginning to end went from okay to terrible in one day. They do not have competitive prices & you can get a better deal with Ozarka. I will never recommend Culligan to anyone or another company. Thank you for ruining my Monday.

[@avagrundell7223]

I've owned my Culligan Gold series for 5 years. I've had 2 repair calls. Between the 2 visits the tech spent no more than a total of 30 minutes at my residence. The first visit resulted in a $230.00 bill which was mailed to me a week later. When the tech was on site I asked the amount of the charge but was told that was decided by those "in the office." More recently I was charged $390.00. Again I asked the tech after he finished the amount of the charge. Same answer. Parts included an eductor, seal pack and transformer for a total parts charge of $221.00. There was a $149.00 service call although they refused to come out until they were scheduled for salt replacement in my area, a separate fuel charge at $4.67 and sales tax.I initially paid $3,250.00 for the unit and installation and now I've paid 20% of the cost of the unit for repairs in only 5 years. I will not be calling Culligan again for anything.

[@mrbamfo5000]

$235 for the kit now. I just bought one.

[@genegene6808]

Thanks for the info Tom. I have the same units that I want to take apart to rebuild also. I emailed you a message as well. Gene

[@jamesryan3194]

i have serviced water softeners for 17 yrs and culligan may be the least user friendly softeners out there, aqua systems are the best user friendly softeners out there today.

[@publicmail2]

the black seals are junk, reuse any white teflon ones if possible they last 15 years black ones for $180 2 years maybe, it's criminal. My buddy is a Culligan man and hoards the white seals which are teflon not shit rubber. Bottom line never buy a seal pack any new ones are shit you will throw your money away, get new softener if seal pack fails. Should always use a carbon filter prior to softener for longevity of resin and overall degradation, I still use Estate 2 20 years and going strong.

[@carlosmorgan8123]

CULLIGAN CULLIGAN CRAZY BUSINESS never want to deal with these ripoff Culligan again ever.

[@TS-fr7ch]

Culligan repairs are such a ripoff and they will eventually go out of business for their bad business practices.

[@nigelmaybury4362]

Here's a useful website for many parts, except Culligan, Sears, EcoWater and CUNO, which all appear to be determined to lock us into their expensive maintenance and parts strategy: www.softenerparts.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41. As teesalmon says near the end of his video, $185 for the seal pack replacement kit from Culligan, seems extremely expensive. Maybe it's time to replace the Culligan gear with a maintenance and salt free system, even if it costs $2500 to $3000 for the pleasure! (Search on "best water softener" to find them.)

[@jeffsydow5066]

A seal pack kit does not cost $185. I just bought one, the entire kit cost less than $80.00, and my unit was installed in 1990. So you buy a good unit, and what better than Culligan, you can look forward to a long lasting softener. And by the way a salt free system will NOT provide you with soft water. And $3000 for one, I don't think a new Culligan softener would cost $3000.