3 biomechanical techniques in rock climbing

In this video we're going to talk about how rock climbers use the biomechanics of the human body to their advantage. And if you're a rock climber yourself, then hopefully you're going to learn better rock climbing techniques or learn why you do things a certain way.
The 3 biomechanical techniques we'll explore are:
0:00 Intro
0:13 The Quadriga Effect
2:08 The Crimp Grip
3:32 Flagging and weight distribution
The Quadriga effect and crimp grips are techniques used to increase grip strength, and flagging and hip movements are fundamental techniques used to increase stability and endurance. The way each technique works, I found, was fascinating!
👉 Consider subscribing if you found this interesting! 👈
This video is a part of a series about the biomechanics of climbing:
✔️ Part 2, fixing the arm pump: • 6 ways to fix an arm p...
✔️ Part 3, the deadpoint technique: • Biomechanics of the de...
✔️ Part 4, shoulder retraction: • How shoulder retractio...
Lots of footage courtesy of Movement for Climbers and Hooper's Beta. Watch and subscribe to their channel!
Movement for Climbers - / @movementforclimbers
Hooper's Beta - / hoopersbeta
Follow me on:
🔥 Instagram: / curiousd0c 🔥
🔥 Facebook: / curiousdoc99 🔥
#rockclimbing #medicine #biomechanics

[@CuriousDoc]

Part 2 is up here! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZu6gJ55rsqceas

[@johndoh1000]

You should extend the series with an investigation on the drop knee. It feels like every time I can’t reach something a good drop knee makes it feel as if I grew like 10 inches.

[@movementforclimbers]

You know you've made it when a doctor (from Australia) deems your content good enough to explain biomechanics ;-) Glad you found the footage helpful, and I appreciate the acknowledgement.

[@joatanpereira4272]

nice seeing you here

[@landenmoore8366]

Ayyyy your content is legit! Love your channel

[@hooblabity9494]

Dude your climbing is textbook!

[@mihuuuu]

love your channel brother

[@BlazeDragonfist]

As someone who's been climbing for 15 years, I absolutely love your explanation on how all of the muscles and tendons work together, and the examples/diagrams you provided. When climbing I can feel everything moving around, and know what's being used for what, but I've never seen something like this to see how everything's working together specifically for climbing. Keep up the great work!

[@CuriousDoc]

Much appreciated!!

[@nielslund9359]

Physical Therapist here, rock climbing enthusiast, and youth climbing coach 5+ years. Just want to say I was impressed with the information and presentation here. I learned stuff too!

[@anuragandanujclimbing7219]

A full-on series is very much needed. I think many people would appreciate if you could pull in some numbers for forces different joints and tendons can withstand and how all 4 fingers and thumb compare to each other. Lookin forward to some epic vids.

[@MrSchmidt97]

+1 this Also I just subbed!

[@klassicvibes]

Yep, subbed for more climbing content

[@PDolansky]

as a physiotherapist, I find this video really helpful

[@maryanc8753]

Gonna have to rewatch this, but I'm a climbing newbie and this had a lot of interesting information! Thanks for explaining with such helpful examples/visuals :)

[@artosvanstel]

Really excited to see more, this provedided some great insight into the reasons behind certain things you instinctively do

[@CuriousDoc]

That's a good point - our body does a lot of these things instinctively!

[@timgee3638]

I've never subscribed to anyone after just one video, but this one was so well done. After climbing took over my life for 7 years, I've never had a pulley injury, but accumulated stress on my joints forced me to quit 4 years ago. It was devastating. I don't know if watching videos like this will ever allow me to climb again, but it would give me peace of mind to learn what caused my injury so i can warned others not to follow in my footsteps so they can continue to enjoy climbing. I would greatly appreciate a video on synovitis in the PIP joint for climbers!

[@CuriousDoc]

Thank you for the kind words

[@JosephDiazClimbs]

This was super cool! I'd love to see you tackle some more climbing related topics - but either way I subscribed to keep an eye on what you cover in the future!

[@crobbw]

Excellent video, I’d love to see a similar treatment on the shoulder. Keep up the good work.

[@loganl4037]

Cool video! Really enjoyed and subscribed, excited for more

[@wilydingus]

Cool!! Great stuff thanks, the first try it yourself experiment was pretty fascinating

[@TheMassa93]

Thank you a lot that's super interesting, and help to prevent injuries. Subscribed istantly ❤️

[@DeusKite]

im new to climbing and this was the best climbing video ive seen so far. thx! insta liked and subbed :D

[@Fogmeister]

As a climber I always knew it felt stronger to flex the fingers I wasn't using. But I never realised why until now. Interesting video! Thanks

[@mckinleywyman]

Outstanding video! thanks for the whole new way of looking at climbing.

[@LunA-Emi]

Just found your chanel. So much potential in here, keep going!

[@ngexianyu947]

Super informative definitely want a full series

[@jimmy8377]

Wow. Explained so well

[@vincentreinkemeyer7940]

Great Video! Very brief and comprehensive. Enjoyed watching.

[@matan3061]

Love your videos, waiting for an iceskating one 😁

[@danimae1544]

I'd Love to hear/lean more about the shearing force on the lumbricals please.

[@john9621]

Thank you so much for this video. Watching this helps me understand why I cannot close or extend my hand properly after suffering a full open dislocation of a finger.

[@LiamRappaport]

Nice video! I've been gym climbing about 2 years and have never really known what the pulleys were.

[@derekedgar1676]

I can't wait to try and think about this next time I climb!

[@TheMontyMadness]

This is fantastic, could you do the biomechanics of the 3 big lifts? Squat, Deadlift & Bench? Great content hope this turns into a series!

[@lo7784]

great video! thanks man

[@alexy-miguelautret8550]

Thank you from France !

[@rowparkour]

Wow u only have 555 subs 0.o this is top quality content! Keep the good work, in no time u'll be famous!!

[@addis832]

Amazing video!!

[@willemtrahn3358]

Good Video! Would like to see more climbing videos, especially about preventing finger injuries and how to deal with them.

[@allezvenga7617]

Thanks for your sharing

[@tygranamalyan]

Fantastic explanation! Even being a doctor did not give me that clear picture what I got from this video!

[@johnarinehart]

Would love to see more videos on this subject

[@johndoh1000]

YESSSSS YES YES YES A HUNDRED TIMES YES!!! I love biomechanics and I love rock climbing, but there’s not a lot of biomechanical discussion on the internet. PLEASE keep making these videos!

[@CuriousDoc]

New climbing video up on my channel!

[@andulasis6283]

Awesome! Really interesting thanks :)

[@derkeynot2809]

I just saw you on reddit. Really good video :D

[@nikash97]

very interesting, thanks

[@zg4705]

Wow! You're amazing!

[@johndoh1000]

Hi I watched this video way back and I thought you did a fantastic job! I’m coming back to this video to ask if you could do a video on the biomechanics of a drop knee and why this technique is so useful.

[@toknowsport7257]

Great vid, cheers!

[@brittanybutterworth1068]

I’m new to climbing but have done sports for a while. I was really concerned about finger injuries right off the bat and didn’t know what a pulley injury is. This video helps so much! This gives me confidence to keep climbing slow so all of the muscles in my hands get stronger. Thank you!!

[@CuriousDoc]

Glad you found it useful!

[@Vespira21]

Yes, in fact muscles have the tendency to grow stronger faster than the tendons are getting thicker and more resistant. So, when you get into climbing, it's important to not overuse pockets holds and crimps, and to warm up properly (doing joints stretching, a bit of cardio, and some gradually difficult climbing). By doing this, you will most likely prevent injuries. And then, when progressing, you can more and more try to use 3, 2 or even 1 finger to hold a position.

[@wusler8669]

Really loved the video

[@sfghhhcvwtw]

just watching this viedeo makes all my mdps and fdjps feel better :D

[@WWater-zo3nm]

You should acknowledge the other climbers and youtubers in your video

[@leftcoastbeard]

I see a lot of stuff from Movement For Climbers in here.

[@leftcoastbeard]

And it is credited. Stupid mobile interface.

[@chino2506]

He still didn't mention Mani the monkey.

[@syindrome]

He also used footage from Hooper's Beta ಠ╭╮ಠ who by the way does a much better job explaining AND is an _actual_ climber

[@kaikingkailai]

Thanks for the educational video. I would like to know about the golf elbow for climbers. Hope I can see you cover this topic later.

[@thatlumberjack]

Editing tip to Curious Doc, you had me confused at 4:49. Following your explanation of a back flag, you showed how not to do a back flag, but your transition was so quick that I still hadn't processed what a "proper" back flag was, and had to go back and find the original clip. Next time, try including a clip of proper form "after" you explain what something is so that we viewers can visualize what you just said. Regardless of everything I just said, I love the video and you just got yourself another subscriber. I love biomechanics. Thanks for the awesome video.

[@Acissye]

That was so helpful oh wow

[@adri-ep2nw]

Nice video and really good explanation! =) I study civil engineering and thinking about this sort of stuff on a mechanical basis really came in handy for me when climbing. Broken down the body on the wall is really just a static system that shouldnt move (at least until you reach for the next hold). Your hands and feet are good at transfering vertical and horizontal forces but very bad at handling moments. You can avoid moments by either manipulating your center of mass or by smartly placing the supports (your hands and feet). Understanding and applying those principals, be it analytically or intuitively is what makes good technique.

[@dumplingbao2238]

this is amazing

[@jordipoles9643]

I am a climber and i always did all the things just because it felt easier 😅, but the explanations were very interesting!! 👍

[@chooseacareer]

great vid! much appreciate for the vid. Do you climb yourself?

[@samsonhuntley8060]

great vid keep it up

[@AL-ri6bk]

very good workout, rock climbing

[@angushayes6088]

Sick!

[@tijndevries6574]

For most rock climbers this is basic knowledge, if it is'nt it should have been. Great video

[@pedroyukio7248]

More climbing!!!

[@Mason1le]

Awesome video!

[@thesuperchoober]

So great to see a doctor from Australia

[@hamedshokri1023]

very good

[@jamcdonald120]

0:01 Hi A doctor from Australia! I am A Viewer from the Internet!

[@yoelmorales208]

Good video

[@minifishy7162]

Very well done video. One terminology correction, at least in my area, open grip is a type of "crimp grip" when you said crimp grip you were referring to what is commonly called a closed grip. There's also a half grip which is... Wait for it... Halfway in-between the two.

[@benja_mint]

i think if you ask 3 people you'll get 5 sets of names for these grip types 😁 for me they are (in order from most agressive to least agressive) full-crimp, half-crimp, and open hand... and... i if i understoof correctly my half-crimp is not your half-grip 🤣 (ive never heard anybody use half grip before)

[@mrmistyeye7076]

Nice 😁

[@ananda_miaoyin]

Excellent video. No bullshit, just the facts. I climb a lot and would love to see your take on shoulder engagement through different moves.

[@CuriousDoc]

Good idea! And thanks for the support

[@z48o0]

It looks like im climbing nerd coz this was quiete intwresting 👍

[@toddoskin]

Awesome video! Very informative and easy to follow with the 3d Skelton model. Do a video about shoulder mechanics in climbing!! Thanks again

[@CuriousDoc]

This is a great idea, thank you.

[@CuriousDoc]

Check out the latest video :)

[@arduouspaths]

good stuff! I've been meaning to talk about climbing biomechanics in my vids as well! Maybe one day we'll cross paths 😊

[@CuriousDoc]

Looking forward to seeing it and learning something new!

[@PaulBischoff7]

Please make a video about extensor tendon injuries. All climbing injury videos are about pulley tendons.

[@wkcjek4332]

that's awesome, as a starter in climbing I cant wait to try these!!

[@zahraboufala9373]

Please do the same kind of video about dancers!!!

[@juliadegroot]

Great vid!

[@CuriousDoc]

Thank you stranger

[@partykrew666]

i totally screwed my left ring finger lumbrical about 6 weeks ago :/ thanks quadriga effect! :D

[@becharja]

Great video, thanks for making. NB there is a difference between the Quadriga effect and quadriga phenomenon- thee former being pathology arising as a complication of repair

[@becharja]

As such, it’s the Quadriga Phenomenon you’re talking about. Really enjoyed the vid- keep them coming

[@e1lio1t]

Are there any good reviews on topics like this? The common injuries in climbing review seemed like it was missing a lot, and the only other great article I could find was on lumbrical strain.

[@CuriousDoc]

I couldn't find any good comprehensive reviews either so a lot of this information is pieced together from various journal articles!

[@germanzheng]

two of my favorite KZbin climbers: mani the monkey and movement for climbers 😁

[@feikibio]

More climbing content. Specially on fingers. Subscribed here.

[@wadball]

Is there a way to strengthen tendons? Like how way you can gradually build up your muscles? Or do tendons only deteriorate with use?

[@firstlast-wg2on]

Tendons do grow, just at a much slower rate than muscle. They grow much in the way muscle does, with tension, but it’s important to have deload periods for a lot of reasons, your tendons included. Since they grow so much slower due to less blood flow, deloads may help them strengthen by allowing them to recover. But in terms of specifics doing climbing will strengthen your tendons, if a lot slower than muscle.

[@jeffries848]

Good vid! Maybe I missed it being cited but some of this footage is also from Mani the Monkey, which is another channel with good climbing content.

[@Teh-Penguin]

Maybe try finding more digestible names for what you're describing. The video was nice but it was difficult to follow at times due to the technical jargon.

[@Yarblocosifilitico]

I have to try this Quadriga Effect but I think my body already has without consulting me haha, it's just weird to have your other fingers extended on a mono or bi because that takes a little bit of effort that you can't spare at that moment.

[@jpswaddle7899]

Do the Elbow from a climbers perspective next please mate.

[@yingzi1098]

4:50 i dont quite get it. when is the base of support at one side, in wich situation is it diagonal? couldnt you also draw the base of support between the left foot and the right hand?

[@dharmapunk777]

Beauty

[@Yarblocosifilitico]

suggestion: this video, but for parkour. Also, thoughts on intermittent fasting?

[@alexsher6221]

So interesting! Wish anatomy was taught like this more

[@CuriousDoc]

Thanks bro

[@AntonAdelson]

Holy Facking Shit!! I learned soooo much from this!

[@kcc8986]

So when you talked about using a mono or pocket and the benefits of retracing your other fingers for additional strength, could that be comparable to going into a full crimp for the strain on your tendons and ligaments? And if so could using a mono with all your fingers extended be safer or at least less stressful on your body in comparison? Thank you!

[@CuriousDoc]

The crimp grip is probably a bit more dangerous than flexing adjacent fingers in a pocket grip. Reason being the A2 pulley can withstand 400N of force and a heavy load can exceed that or the strength can be decreased with chronic overuse of the crimp grip. Lumbrical injuries are statistically less likely also. For your second question, it's best to keep the MCPJs extended and the PIPJs and DIPJs flexed for a good balance between strength and injury prevention. Although it's best to listen to your body and not do movements that hurt.

[@oli5210]

@@CuriousDocis it possible to ever increase the strength of the pulleys or will they always be so fragile?

[@TheValinov]

@@CuriousDoc and how much do the other pulleys withstand? no wonder mine snapped twice, because i weight over 80kg 😐

[@threeriversforge1997]

Very neat. With my index and middle fingers blocked, I can get a good solid curl on my pinkie and a fairly decent curl on my ring finger. I also have that vestigial muscle/ligament thing that pops up in the wrist when I touch my thumb to my pinkie. Not sure if that makes me extra caveman-ish or not, but I like it!

[@CuriousDoc]

You may have a separate muscle belly for the pinky! And the other thing you're doing is the Schaeffer test for the presence of the palmaris longus. It's a largely useless muscle but if you ever need a tendon graft, surgeons often use thr palmaris longus for that reason!

[@threeriversforge1997]

@@CuriousDoc Does that mean I qualify for the X-Men? Sounds like I might be on the way to superhero/mutant status!! Very cool.

[@elequilibrista87]

Slackline!!!💯

[@blzera9132]

me, a sedentary, at 2am: interesting...

[@Schabanane]

Do you have a video how to recover the ligament in the middelfinger? I injured it 2 Month ago by climbing :( And my doc just say: dont move it...

[@iandominguez5861]

3rd year medical student and climber for 4 years, here. I just wanted to say this was a really well done video. Thank you!

[@shtdisturbance]

Would using your middle and pointer finger be stronger for pockets since it can use the individual muscle belly? My ring and middle is stronger but this makes me think it shouldnt be?

[@CuriousDoc]

Good question... the ring and middle fingers are stronger because the shared muscle belly enables the quadriga effect to happen. Having an individual muscle belly doesn't provide a strength advantage, rather a dexterity advantage :)

[@connorcraig518]

this means using your tendons is aid

[@dinocokljat5386]

What anatomy softweare is that?tnx

[@CuriousDoc]

It's called Complete Anatomy!

[@willtsaivlogs8504]

🎉🎉🎉

[@CuriousDoc]

💯💯💯

[@dongshenghan1473]

i rock climbed like, 3 times in my life (all bouldering). But each time I have shit load of fun and a painful realization of how weak I am. Looking at this video I realize how much that goes into it. How should I start to learning how to climb and work out to make myself stronger?

[@LMcB97]

Just start going to a climbing gym my man. If you want to get good at somthing, do it. I've been climbing close to 2 years and the community is so friendly and inviting. Just went sport climbing for the first time yesterday with people I met at the climbing gym.

[@arturopenno1322]

seria genial si tuviera subtítulos en español :c

[@t4iga121]

I am seeing a channel aspiring to make great videos. I would highly adivse you to treat the room you are recording in because there is a lot of reverb