CUSTOMER STATES POPPING NOISE WHEN BRAKING! AUDI LOWER CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENT DUE TO FAILED BUSHING

Today I show you how to replace a lower control arm on a Audi S5 enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of The Enthusiast Mechanic, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. The Enthusiast Mechanic assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. The Enthusiast Mechanic recommends safe practices when working with tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of The Enthusiast Mechanic, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.

[@Enoiye]

I get the crackling sound after new lower control arm. on bumps or rough road its fine but when I rotate the steering wheel is when I hear the crackling sound.

[@haroldgc1140]

Well explained, thank you.

[@virtisconsole12]

Great video.. so when you loaded the bushing for torquing where did you put the jack under the front control arm ball joint of on the rear ball joint? Or somewhere in between them on the knuckle? Did you get the control arm level what determines “normal ride height “ I need to do lower bushing on my A4 same situation and was curious as to the bushing loading technique.. thanks good camera and lighting in this video 👍🏻

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

I put in on both of the lower ball joints only because on my on lift jack it has a really wide catch to hold on both of them. I lowered the car as if it was going to be on the ground with all tires to get proper ride height, you can just lower a car with a jack stand or jack under the side your working and then lower the car on to it and then tighten and torque everything.

[@tonyd3266]

I use green loctite on EVERY A8 bolt due to dissimilar metals

[@tonyd3266]

I had the same knocking issue when braking and accelerating. In a hilly area, it was much more pronounced. Just finished replacing two lower control arms on 2006 D3 Audi a 8L. The process is similar to this video part. There’s no pressing ball joint both of the control arms have a 21 mm nut oem. first I removed the lower rear arm and found that my replacement 30,000 miles ago was not too tight. It uses 18 mm and I was able to use two combination wrenches. I did not remove my axle but I was very careful to swivel the wheel back-and-forth when I needed to. So to remove the driver side which is left, I turn the wheel like a right, turn to give me extra room And it took a pickle fork and sledgehammer to break it free from the second control arm. I installed the third one now at 106,000 miles I seriously wonder if just thoroughly tightening that rear 18 mm bolt would have made it all go away, but my ball joint Boots were torn and I think it was a hard pothole that must’ve hammered one of the ball joints. Additionally, with all of the jerking back-and-forth it’s time for new Arms and I was able to get one for $25 and the other one for about 45. Next I loosened up and finagled the forward control arm out by removing the 18 mm sub frame, mount bolt, 16 mm bolt to the swaybar link and talk to swaybar link up out of the way, 10 mm call with pair of needle nose, pliers, to hold the shaft from turning And then tucked the right height sensor up out of the way, then I remove the 21 mm hold on the very bottom. This also required a pickle fork, which I was really hoping to crack it with a hammer and have it pop out this time like it did on the first replacement. But this time I had to resort to a pickle fork and sledgehammer I did partially loosen the 10 mm airshock mounting screw. Please note I had raised the car to the lowest dynamic setting and use the MMI menu path to lock suspension there. I let the air leak out, but did not completely remove The air hose and was able to collapse the air shock a little by hand. Again by caulking the ball joint at a sharp angle and turning the steering wheel back-and-forth I was able to finagle that arm up and out of the way and then he is the reverse stubs to Ease the new one into place. I did have the car on jackstands and made use of a car jack to lightly lift up the caliper break when needed using a rubber isolator, so there was no metal contact onto the rotor that seem to work OK. And then installation was at the exact reverse of the extraction steps and was able to get everything lined up and tightened up. One thing I noticed on this video and another was the need to really torque the back 18 mm bolt as if it was an axle bolt. I had not torque the bolt like that when the last control arm was put in. And the good news is now no popping in the car has that ahhh feeling driving it again. I’m not sure you could do much better than the Audi air shock handling system on these A8L cars.

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

I always torque the suspension on these if they aren’t torqued they have issues like you described

[@andyjohnson6548]

I’ve replaced all those control arms on my Q5. Unfortunately we use a lot of salt on the roads here, so I’ve had to deal with broken bolts. Great video, thanks for posting 👍

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

Thank you, glad I could help

[@NobleSpeedmotoworks]

What’s your opinion on just replacing the bushings and using the original arm? Can they be pressed out?

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

If you can find the bushings, you can press them out and replace them the reason why most of these cars just get a new control arms is they are easier to find and pricewise. You can get them online really cheap if you could buy the whole arm for 100 bucks. For that price by the time you buy the bushings and have a mechanic replace them it’ll cost more than the arm and if you do wind up doing it yourself it’s gonna take you a couple more hours most people find it easier to get the control arm swap it and call it a day. All the bushings are new and new ball joints with the new arm

[@dbro3440]

Hi, I'm now getting a knocking noise when braking after a control arm replacement. Is it possible this is happening if control arm was torqued when not under load? Getting slight steering pull also.

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

It can be possible!

[@sunghiep]

Can i use the Silicone Lubricant to spray on the bushings to lose the noise or squeaking???

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

You can, but it’s only temporary they will make noise eventually

[@kastromario8514]

Hello, I changed a new one and since then I have had squaking when I turn the steering wheel.😢

[@danieltoussaint289]

I have the same problem, where’s your shop located?

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

I’m in Illinois

[@macdaddy1234ism]

What’s the most common problem I hit a pot hole twice ?! This month .. I’m gonna replace the control arms first 2019 s4 what else should I checkout out ?? To replace

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

Common failures that I’ve seen would be ball joints, and bushing for the multiple control arms. These vehicles have aside from ball joints and bushings in the control arms. I would also check stabilizer links those are known to wear out, causing knocking noises.

[@macdaddy1234ism]

@@TheEnthusiastMechanic ok so mainly go for … control arms replaced and then new coilovers … what else after if it’s still a problem …? Cv axles or wheeel bearings

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

If your rebuilding the front end all at once but if your chasing a noise I would say to check it and not just replace parts for no reason.

[@ariesworld7]

My service center replaced just the bushings . They did not replace the arm . May I know if replacing the bushing was not an option?

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

The cost of the bushings with labor would have cost about the same as the whole arm to be replaced and the customer opted to pay a few dollars more and replace the whole arm, since there is a ball joint on the arm it was more cost effective due to getting more for the money

[@ariesworld7]

@@TheEnthusiastMechanic Okay.. they charged me around $1200. Bushing was around $136 and rest is labor and tax 😐

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

@@ariesworld7 wow that doesn’t sound right

[@ariesworld7]

@@TheEnthusiastMechanic 🙁

[@timpresutto184]

I'm Sorry to tell you, but I would say something. that's Def Way too much $..Sorry to hear.

[@botilaszlo4225]

The bushing comes together with the arm?

[@TheEnthusiastMechanic]

Yes