CUTTING HOLES in my rare Hemi Plymouth Superberd to FIX IT???

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[@illegalmachine]

Classic Mopar owner here. Few things. 1) check the CFM on those fans. All electric fans aren't created equal 2) my Rallye gauge also read 15-20 degrees higher than my mechanical gauge (and temp gun). I just redid my gauges and went through this. 3) high pressure water pumps can also cause overheating because the water doesn't sit in the radiator long enough 4) yank that fast junk out. EFI has come a LONG way since 2007.

[@aussie2uGA]

OLD GTO guy here and your #3 was always a problem we had. The dwell time of the coolant is very key, too fast a flow is not good.

[@TheMoistpotato]

Agreed regarding the fans. I worked as a thermal engineer doing lab and environmental testing on a product that used those exact low profile spal fans, i probably did over 150 test over a few years with nearly all of spal and other mfg's models. Yes the spal fans are a high quality fan, but they have many different models which varied significantly in cfm and in-hg performance. EDIT " (In standard ambient fan environments, a puller will be more efficient in this type of application)" Also, in a "restricted flow" application ie. flowing thru a radiator, there was a massive performance boost going from a simple 12" to a 13", or from a 13" to a 14" fan for example. Your best bet is fit the highest watt assembly with the largest diameter you can in the given space. To me it looks like he could easily go up a size in fan diameter, and gain nearly 25-40% flow improvement. Now cutting holes in the duct might hypothetically seem to make sense from a overall flow perspective, however it absolutely kills the throughput performance in low external flow applications (ie at a stoplight, or heavy tailwind), the fan just ends up sucking backwards thru the holes with minimal flow thru the radiator itself.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@TheMoistpotato The information of push being better than pull in an automotive radiator (and as far as I'm aware, all other) fan application is incorrect. When you use a pusher fan, you're using applied energy to compress the air against the core rather than just pull it under low pressure. That compression also heats the air, so it's a double whammy. That results in about a 15% decrease in efficiency _if all things are equal.*_ That's exactly why you almost never see automotive OEs use pusher fans, except in really rare cases (and usually only as a booster for A/C performance). Engine packaging would be monumentally easier with the fans and shroud in the bumper instead of under the hood, but they don't do that because it simply doesn't work as well. *Without knowing anything else about your testing, I'll assume you saw the results you did for some reason, but it wasn't because it was simply push vs. pull. Something else was going on. You're correct that bigger fan is always better in every possible way. If I had my choice to do a ground-up cooling module on that car with infinite resources, it would have a single, probably 18-20" fan on it and a shroud as deep as I could possibly make it. Again, this is what you'd typically see from most automotive OEs if they have the space, but they're normally limited on height. Dual smaller fans are a last resort. More noise, more power, less flow, and more expensive. edit: Jack edited his post, which makes my post sort of a non-sequitur. TLDR: Puller fans are better than pushers.

[@umad42]

I was just thinking the same thing on the EFI system, a 2022 EFI system is going to be far, far more effective than that 2007 system, and infinitely less difficult to work with

[@B0xlife1]

@@TheMoistpotato awesome info! THANKS

[@craigcampbell1843]

GOD I wish I could live in a nice quiet culdesac where randomly once a week with no warning I get to look out my window and see my neighbor honking his horn and doing donuts in the snow in a Superbird right in front of my house and climbing all over it like a madman. I hope his neighbors appreciate what they have. All that free entertainment and then everything just goes back to normal for the rest of the week. What a fun neighbor to have.

[@speedbuggy16v]

This, I would almost trade them homes just to watch the shenanigans

[@katherynscleaning5807]

I am buying the house next to him.😎

[@jeremiahgentleman8097]

I have a feeling the HOA sends him a weekly "love note".

[@ROBIN_SAGE]

I think you are likely overestimating his bourgeoise neighbors love for hot rods..... Most in that fancy neighborhood probably hate him. I'd love to have him as a neighbor, however! Did he make all his dough on KZbin, or did he do something else prior? Or family money? Honestly don't know.

[@speedbuggy16v]

@@katherynscleaning5807 awesome!

[@devisionhun]

Reach out to Haltech or Holley, they will both be happy to have their systems in a real superbird!

[@paulfinney]

Just what I was gonna say. Haltech would be up for that, they help roadkill and mighty car mods on these kind of builds all the time

[@MostlyInteresting]

I don't see a problem with the parts its the implementation.

[@mycosys]

that beast kinda deserves a Motec

[@bogdanisari4365]

This is just a set up to introduce the new sponsor

[@PeterBellefleur]

@@MostlyInterestingI've said it on other videos, whomever built this just ordered the most expensive thing with the largest numbers on it and then spent as little as possible making any of it actually work. This was built by a guy who could read a catalog for days, but had no clue in anything else.

[@davidzelkowski9948]

As a retired Chrysler engineer I recall the class I had at work from the cooling system engineers. Of course the cars had engine driven fans. Important things were the radiator is sealed to the closure panel. If not the hot air can recirculate back to the front of the radiator. Also the hood should be sealed to the closure panel for the same reason. Probably the most important is the fan shroud which should fit tightly to the radiator. The fan blade needs to fit close to its opening so the air cannot spill off the blades and circulate back to the front of the blades effectively not pulling air through the radiator but recirculating it.

[@leftyo9589]

they also need a different fan shroud. a flat plate is a no go, as it only allows air to be sucked through right at the fan. the shroud needs to seal to the radiator, but also be spaced/angled enough to allow the fan to draw air from the entire radiator.

[@davidzelkowski9948]

@@leftyo9589 Absolutely!!! I did mention that in one of my three posts.

[@larrydrozd2740]

Wow...I was mentioning this in my comment too! I've restored six Suprbirds over the years, four hemi versions. When I say restore, I mean factory stock, numbers match, judged level restore.....no custom. We spend a lot of time with the factory style radiator seal kits for these. When you get them right, THEY WORK! Especially the Hemi versions of these cars because the Hemi has better heads.

[@davidzelkowski9948]

@@larrydrozd2740 I remember them specifically mentioning old muscle cars and why you would see them overheating in traffic. The owners had removed fan shrouds and installed fiberglass fans and such. The little details are important.

[@d0gZpAw]

I would recommend re-doing the entire electrical system, replacing that FAST box with a new Haltech Elite VMS, which is brand new technology designed to control the ignition of these old carbureted engines, along with gathering data and eliminating the old daisy-chain electronics of the past. There is a LOT of support from Haltech and their distributors in the US, so it's unlikely you will be left on hold for hours.

[@MegaPixie666]

Yes you cannot beat Australian made Haltech

[@woopimagpie]

Agree 100% Haltech is the way to go, but this engine is actually injected - it's mentioned in one of the earlier videos, and also in some of the footage if you look closely you can see fuel rails under that air filter box. It's cleverly done to maintain the illusion, but it's definitely fuel injection and not carb. Cheers.

[@d0gZpAw]

@@woopimagpie Nice catch, I had forgot about that from the earlier videos. In which case, perfect candidate for the new Haltech Nexus!

[@Sabrinahuskydog]

Hoovie's Superbird is *NOT* a carbureted engine. It's been replaced with a newer EFI engine. Did you even watch the video? A quick look over this engine should show you how it's obviously not carbureted.

[@The101Point1]

Either get Haltech or holley efi

[@bungeycord5971]

Heres my suggestion, make sure the lower radiator hose isnt collapsing when driving. A strong radiator pump will do that to an old hose or one without a metal internal spring.

[@boosted_3478]

Exact thing happens to my small block ford it sucks the hose flat 😂 fixed now but it would get pretty hot but fan and radiator were super efficient so always cooled down

[@whatareyoudoingyouidiot342]

If you're going to re-wire the car (and frankly with that rat's nest you've got going on, you should) you might as well switch to a better, more modern engine management system like a Holley or Haltech unit.

[@Local11Sam]

With it being a Hemi.... Id defo pick holly

[@hitman0119]

Agreed

[@JVR_Funwithdesign]

As soon as you see wire nuts being used in a supposedly restored car harness, run...

[@UncleKennysPlace]

I've rarely found a rat's nest of wiring where it wasn't quicker just to cut it out and start from scratch, rather than trying to sort what is there.

[@315motorhead79]

I feel your pain and frustration. Plus, Superbirds and Dodge Daytona's are my dream car. With that said, I agree with a lot of the cooling system advice. We just went through the same problem with a high output engine rebuild in our squarebody truck. It ended up being a combination of many things but mainly by an internal vacuum leak due to missing internal seals and bushings within an aftermarket carb, making it run too lean, causing it to overheat and to diesel on shutdown also stall while warming up. Additionally, we had a poor flow rate in the thermostat. We actually had to boil the thermostat in water, get it up to temp, and found out it wasn't opening all the way. Check the block temp just under the thermostat to see if the temp is significantly different. Lastly, we had to get the valves adjusted because they weren't closing all the way, causing low power output and contributing to overheating. Let me know if any of this advice helps? One more thing. Check the harmonic balancer to see if they stuck the original hemi balancer back on or if it is even the right balancer in general. Had that happen on a vehicle rebuild once, which led to the timing being way off.

[@Alex88302]

I would look into a holley sniper EFI setup with a standalone ECU. That would make it behave and run like a lot newer car and make it far easier to tune. I remember JR did that setup on his grandpas old f series and it was a night and day difference

[@TheGearheadLounge]

As the 375th person to drop on their two cents...I would definitely dump the F.A.S.T. and go with a Holley, or even Edelbrock. As far as the fans go, have you considered dumping the aluminum plate altogether, and maybe even replacing them with pair of pusher fans? Either way, I'd dump the plate. Also, I'd check that temp that thermostat is...if it's too low, it would cause overheating issues as well.

[@safffff1000]

Yea, some sort of rod or sq tubing support. Even a larger radiator

[@56radioboy]

I have a Big gas Winnebago Vectra with a ford 460 which had a heating issue...added a pusher fan and bingo, we were cool again, was an easy fix

[@rayceeya8659]

As tinkered with as this thing is, I'd jump straight in and replace the thermostat all together. It might not even be there. Some gearheads run without or install flow restricting orifices. This was obviously someone's project car at some point. Lots of shade tree DIY stuff under that hood. Looking at that rat's nest, I wouldn't trust it to drive 50 miles.

[@stevenporter6903]

I’m with these guys. On hold for two hours? Ha! Pull that crap out! I’ve always wondered about fluid dwell time in the radiator and air flow. I’m not a fan of the car in general, but I’m on board the fix it journey. Thanks Hoovie!

[@gutsngorrrr]

If you go with an engine management system like a Haltech, you can get them with full wireing looms hi tech instrument panel and lots of sensors. Something like this would solve most of the problems.

[@depressedpumpkin7290]

I had a similar issue with an Olds 455 with a very similar cooling set up. You have no original fan shroud to direct air and a big front end, so I would suggest adding a push fan to the front of the radiator. Also, make sure your current fans are turning on correctly and their heat probes are working / in an appropriate place.

[@davidhiscock1969]

A Haltech ecu and loom designed specifically for your bird and hemi would be a smart choice I think. The rats nest of wiring just shouts issues

[@shawnvan157]

Your channel is one of the best out here. You keep it real and if the hooptie is bad you say so. To many channels I feel kiss butt just to keep in the good graces of car manufacturers so they can get the freebies to keep their channels going. Thank you.

[@pastedtomato]

I would definitely rewire the ECU, it's a real rat nest, heck, you could get your glove box back, and yes, the aluminium box fan shroud is the way to go.

[@BigWheel.]

Damn, I should really start plugging my only fans here too huh?

[@pastedtomato]

@@BigWheel. It seems like a good idea, everybody does it

[@Nedinho23]

@@BigWheel. that’s what happens when you start buying comments and subs

[@Ian-of9oi]

Did you see the wire nut? I dropped an F bomb in shock when I saw it behind the glove box. Anyway check me out on only fans.

[@RobTheSquire]

My dad has a late MK One Triumph Stag that needs a restomod big time. It over heats and the carbs decided that it wanted each float at different levels. Also the electrics were butchered by the previous owner with wires that we have no idea where they go or what they are for. We're so glad to have a workshop manual.

[@KontoVonMir]

Tyler, I have left a comment in the previous video where I offered my help. I'm an automotive engineer and I have helped dozens of people with their issues within the biggest Fast support group. I build performance engines and tune EFI systems (with the use of an engine dyno) and know I can help you easily. Please reach out if you want competent help and not just "trial and error" stuff.

[@thelanecampbell]

I feel like this might no longer be "the dumbest automotive channel in all of KZbin" if he took advice and didn't do trial and error. Even if it bothers his audience to watch him do dumb things like sitting on the spoiler of his rare muscle car...

[@BigWheel.]

@Dominick he's too busy reading his repair bills, give him time and he'll get to each of us. Hopefully....

[@BrickNewton]

I think he just needs to upgrade to a much newer system, I don't know the FAST system, but a new standalone would give so many more options in one unit.

[@KontoVonMir]

@@BrickNewton the Fast system is more than sufficient for 98% of the peoples needs and a HUGE advantage over a carb when it comes to drivability, start-up, fuel economy and other needs for daily driving. It can be made self tuning and just needs to be dialed in properly in conjunction with a few other steps. Then it can run perfectly for the street or even certain race applications. Everything above that would be primarily a waste of money because of little added benefit and huge replacement cost. Just the fact that it’s newer doesn’t necessarily make it better for this purpose.

[@michaelbolton1090]

I think what a lot of people are saying about the device being ancient don't have an incredible amount of relevance. A fast, holley, efi live, etc are mostly just an outlet for a tuner to utilize. Sure they have varying features and stuff, but for a normally aspirated street car like this you don't need that many crazy features. Just a way to set timing, fuel tables, etc. I would take issue with the overall way that device has been wired, but as long as someone can get it connected to a laptop almost any competent tuner would be able to figure it out. Timing and air fuel ratios are not rocket science on a project like this. I could definitely see the benefit of having someone familiar with the device just get it dialed in.

[@paulbartlett9054]

I bet a stock fan on the engine with a factory fan shroud would cool better. Plus using a radiator additive like Water Wetter helps with cavitation (water boiling in the cylinder heads). Worth a try. Get a real temp gauge too. If that doesn’t, work, a better electric fan might. Plus the correct water pump must be used! High flow might not let the water stay in the rad long enough. My last 440 in a GTX gave me fits like this, but you learn to keep an eye on it.

[@NoClassic]

The radiator needs to be sealed against the radiator support and ducting panels made to span from the lower grill opening to the radiator face. It is really no surprise the car is still overheating at idle after the holes being drilled. Those only offer benefit in motion. Ideally those holes should have flaps on them that can seal when the fans create negative pressure in that space but allow flow in motion/at higher road speed. This is really not super complicated to be honest. EDIT: Here is the instructions and wiring diagrams for the Gen 1 Fast ECU - static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xfi_ecu_operationmanual.pdf

[@PuerRidcully]

The sealing is not functional, if you don't have proper shroud, which distances the fans away from the radiator. In this case the back seal was only hindering the cooling.

[@b2dmastersniper]

Yea I am not sure how the wizard didn't already apply some of those basic fixes to the radiator... I am sure there is more to the story.

[@NoClassic]

@@AshAshAshAshAshAshAshAshAshAsh They are talking about the shroud for the fans not anything in front of the radiator which is what I am speaking to.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@NoClassic I think it already has a belly pan that goes between the core support and the nose, and although not well sealed, doesn't seem to leave huge gaps around the sides of the radiator. I don't think ram air _to_ the core is as much of an issue as all of the cluster Fs going on with the fans and the "shroud".

[@NoClassic]

@@TheBrokenLife Yeah likely a combination of both given that it runs hot at speed and at idle. I agree the fan shroud needs more volume and likely some better fans as well. Those parts store low profile ones really dont move that much air compared to the brushless stuff that is available now.

[@3.2Carrera]

Been there with the fan issue. As has been said, the holes are good while it's moving, but it idle the fans without a shroud will suck air through those holes that were drilled and not through the rad. I'd ditch the whole panel support and get a correct mount that's only a shroud with the rest of the area open to allow airflow when the car is moving. Shouldn't be too hard or expensive to do that with off the shelf stuff.

[@Born_Stellar]

from what i've heard even with a proper shroud the superbird was known for heating up at idle.

[@d0gZpAw]

He could add some flexible flaps to those holes to rectify this issue.. At idle, the fans will create enough vacuum pressure to close these flaps, and as the vehicle picks up speed, the force of the air will push the flaps open to allow airflow through the radiator. You will need some spacers between the radiator and fan plate, and a seal around the outer edge for this to work optimally.

[@muskokamike127]

could be too that the fans aren't big enough or move enough air.....it also could have a dodgey thermostat......since it was meant to be a "race" car, I could see them putting in a 200 deg thermostat to keep the heat up....since "heat is horsepower".

[@muskokamike127]

@@Born_Stellar haha I can't understand why...i mean bolting on a big nose cone that blocks off 80% of the air flow...lol

[@runnyeggyolk6347]

@@d0gZpAw damn, that's a cool idea

[@AdrianDunevein]

I would use a nice 1/8" thick sheet of aluminum perforated metal to mount the fans. Would get the airflow back over the whole surface of the radiator and the holes in the perforated metal will allow you to mount whatever size fan you want to upgrade to.

[@aaronredbaron]

If you add little hinged flaps instead of cutting holes it allows for both maximum airflow at speed and optimal airflow through the fans

[@strat0871]

A grille instead of that plate, with the fans bolt on.

[@itsaposcj5]

Yep. Usually a piece of rubber riveted at the top. It blows open at speed and closes when the fans are making a vacuum.

[@SmashGhost]

Yeah, the holes prevents the fans from working properly

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Yep check out any mk1 vw they've got the flaps.

[@extremecheddarswityomom]

Would make sense if it didnt overheat sitting at idle before they drilled the holes.

[@NICK-uy3nl]

Replace the thermostat. Thoroughly flush the cooling system with Blue Devil coolant flush. Install a third fan in front of the radiator to draw cool air. Put a timing light on it see if engine is on-time and advances correctly...there are many things you can do before rewiring the whole thing !

[@tbozzz8785]

I agree with your statement, but wouldn't it make sense for the rewire instead of when it goes to auction,the possible buyers being turned off by the rats nest in the glovebox and the other wiring issues that seem to be done by a 9year old

[@jaredoaks6317]

Definitely upgrade the engine management system. Holley is a great product to use and most tuners are familiar with it. Plus more power and better drivability. We just built a 1200 horsepower LS camaro that runs 7.90 in the quarter mile and gets 15mpg using Holley

[@jameslong3752]

You would be money ahead to just upgrade and rewire the engine management system. Getting rid of the spaghetti mess in the glove box will help with future resale as well.

[@geneard639]

One of the old tricks used a long time ago to address the over heating issue was to lift the rear edge of the hood by a quarter to a full inch to allow hot air to flow out. It was a common hot rod trick back in the day.

[@daftnord4957]

6:24 "why the hell does this kid own a hemi muscle car"

[@jonbutzfiscina1307]

Your superbird radiator system is similar to my Bricklin. The air comes under the nose and is redirected up into the front of the radiator. Good while driving, but not so good while standing still. By sealing around the radiator and having an efficient fan did MOST of the problems subside. An aluminum radiator with a thicker core seamed to be the final cure. The original radiator in the Bricklin was from the AMC Matador. It didn't have to deal with a large motor, but it was used to expedite production. Good luck.

[@jasepoag8930]

Aren't those holes in the shroud going to potentially hurt cooling performance while sitting? You should get some of those rubber flaps put in that close at idle and open while you're moving. That said, with the shroud basically butted up against the core, it might not matter much. Edit: I see like 100 other people made the same comment, oh well.

[@1800notarealnumber]

Yeah man I thought the same thing, I can't believe that dude called the fan shroud a "radiator block off plate"

[@scod3908]

I commented the same thing, the holes will make it worse The shroud is to ensure all the fan airflow comes through the radiator. Now the airflow is going to be sucking in through those holes and out through the fan bypassing the radiator entirely 🤦‍♂

[@JM800]

Are the fans even working? Because of the holes, the fans if they work, won't be pulling air through the radiator....

[@chassegallerie2910]

What's nice about this Bird is that it's a "I can have fun with it" Superbird! You'll sort her out completely eventually.

[@BigWheel.]

Even if it's never 100% (no project ever is) it'll be fun for him to own and drive, when it is working well. And that's all that really matters.

[@chassegallerie2910]

@@BigWheel. Well, besides the ECU/wiring she seems to have been all fixed by Wizard. So, it's either someone figure out the wiring or re-do it and it'll be all done. But I agree, with you that even if it wasn't 100%, he has fun with it.

[@robc7323]

I prefer cars with a few dings/flaws that I can put some miles on/add a few mods to without losing $65k in value.. I enjoy driving too much and do not want to deal with the stress of owning a flawless ,all original, 1 of 250 show car... However, I do appreciate the collectors who keep mint versions of the classics alive for future generations. They are doing God's work.

[@22cudaman]

@@chassegallerie2910 Yes Forsure, because you cant take it with ya

[@johnnypk1963]

The shifter, wing, front-end/wheel base proportions r all so close to just being not quite right somehow. But in this vehicle, they just come together and totally work. Love these cars.

[@autoavids]

A proper fan shroud and new engine Management system with harness may be your best bet and would make the ol' bird that much better. Best of luck 👍

[@daxtonbrown]

This is why I run a carburetor and big honking flex fan with no clutch on my 67 Camaro out here in the Vegas desert. No wiring rat's nest. No undiagnosable tune. No overheating.

[@timothyharrison8953]

I've been working with Dave on aircraft since 2009. He's about the smartest liaison engineer I've ever met. He's also been my supervisor a time or two. He'll figure out how to get into that wiring harness and get it tuned too. You just wait and see.

[@kimosabbe50]

"Dave?...Dave?... Dave's not here" 😉

[@Veritas419]

Did you watch the video? The guy just said he couldn’t (actually probably didn’t want to because the wiring is a dumpster fire) fix the car. They couldn’t even find the plug. It’s got to be in there, but it’s hard to find something when you don’t look for it. Guys like that totally piss me off.

[@andrewlynch7345]

Honestly Tyler if your going to rewire it get a haltech, they have amazing customer service and it’s soooo easy to work with!

[@sammni]

I love every episode..... "It's a real superbird ya know"

[@jasonw3303]

Most of one anyways

[@rickc303]

Gotta drive up that resale value somehow

[@theinsaneshecklador6598]

Real Superbird VIN, wing, nose, and some other parts.

[@kimosabbe50]

The best part of this video, by far, was the outro. "BEEP, BEEP" while doing donuts in the snow 😂 Love it! 👍

[@kens8903]

I hear there’s a hellephant crate engine going up for auction.. I mean it’s already had it original engine swapped out anyways. Just throwing some stuff out there

[@noth606]

plus the hellephant is actually 426ci, so it'd be perfect for this car. Just double the power of the original 426. But I suspect the price on it will be more than Hoovie would be willing to part with, although it does seem complete with electronics etc.

[@Born_Stellar]

yeah but part of the value of the car is that it does have an orig hemi, even if its not the one that came in the car originally.

[@TheBrokenLife]

I don't think more horsepower is going to fix his cooling issues. 😁 I do admire your spirit though.

[@kens8903]

@@TheBrokenLife New engine would fix your tuning issues which could also fix the cooling issues too. Plus with the engine now you could put a new electric fan set up which could help cooling as well. Sometimes it’s better to start over them to keep building and repairing off of somebody else’s stuff

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@kens8903 You should look into all of the coolers that are on a Hellcat and what guys have to do to classic cars to swap them in and "sort of" keep them cool. It's not as easy as you may think. The simple fact is that if it's producing twice the power (which it nearly would be), it's almost certainly going to be producing twice the heat. I do agree that sometimes it's better to cut bait on someone else's problems. In this case, I'd ditch that ancient FAST setup in a heartbeat and have the car wired properly. I wouldn't swap motors. That would create more problems than it solves.

[@scottwhitehurst6055]

Holes only help airflow through radiator in motion. At idle the fans can only pull their circumference through the radiator (equivalent of still having the plate. The solution is a fan shroud to have the fans pull air through the full surface area of the radiator. Speed builds almost always remove something as pedestrian as a fan shroud. But shrouds we’re there for a reason.

[@henrikcarlsen1881]

The neighbours must hate him. The beep beep horn, the revving, the endless stream of towing trucks and sometimes a driveable car

[@jamesherbert8391]

Don’t forget the donuts in the road 😂

[@russellhltn1396]

I do have to wonder what kind of relationship he has with his neighbors. Maybe he did this in the middle of the workday when they were all at work paying for the house.

[@anthonyslazas2898]

Living next to Tyler would be a lot of fun !! There a lot worse out there.

[@brianbrink1421]

I’d take him for a neighbor so I could look at that car!! Needs lots of work but still it’s a super bird !!!!

[@sickjohnson]

That ending was awesome Tyler! No word of a lie, that car suits you more than any other in recent years Hoovie, you should try and keep it for as long as possible man. Super jelly too on top of it all...got to drive one 3 times and your video just brings back all those good memories!

[@hotshtsr20]

The motors on those fans are likely undersized for the motor/radiator. If they don't trip a 40A fuse, they're too small. I highly recommend a higher flow SPAL or similar. Don't trust CFM ratings, look at the motor amperage: if it says "3000CFM" but has 8A of draw, they're gaming the numbers.

[@redneckbryon]

I would imagine it’s pretty embarrassing to come to a stop light and have your Plymouth Superberd, stall on you. I’m surprised, the wizard didn’t notice more of these issues that are obvious, like the non-Automotive Household wire nuts holding connections together.

[@pummer]

Wizard took 1 look at that glovebox and said... I'm not spending 3 weeks figuring this out

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

I get the impression wizard is more youtube celebrity than good mechanic. Look at how many times repairs are not done correctly and cars return. Look at where Tyler had the wheels redone because he wanted it to look better, and wizard puts a crappy rusted lugnut on. Most good mechanics let their reputation speak for them, not repeated videos where they self promote.

[@keeganlangford5580]

@@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell I agree. Seems he needs a model specific, step-by-step service manual/schematics to do anything beyond basic maintenance or it takes him repeated tries to get anything 100%

[@DrinkWhiskeyRaiseHell]

@@kruleworld I don't have any reason to think he is dishonest. However after seeing how many times vehicles return not fixed and misdiagnosed, plus with his nonstop self promotion, I think he isn't that great. I don't the guy is a crap mechanic or anything. Just cause he is a youtube celebrity doesn't mean he is all that great. He is just good at convincing people he is the only good one out there.

[@redneckbryon]

@@pummer Your a bit wrong on that one, he did look into the wiring to get everything working.

[@bryce5527]

If I remember right from a video donut media posted years ago. Those radiator fans currently on it, are quite little the cheapest pieces of junk you can buy.

[@noskatehate]

I really enjoy that you actually drive your cars and don't just want them to sit.

[@katywalker8322]

Wire nuts in the wiring! Yes, send it to someone who knows what they are doing. Should be relatively easy - especially compared to trying to cope with the mess in there at the moment.

[@benjamingrow8904]

There’s a gentlemen who owns a Hemi Superbird in the town I grew up in. I grew up in Johnstown, PA. And the gentlemen owns a shop, which he converted into a garage for his toys in Geistown, PA. Right beside Laurel BMW and Laurel Nissan. If you google it, it will take you right to it. Has sat in the front window underneath a cloth since I was little, and I’m 26 now. I know it has almost no miles on it. You should see you if can source his number and buy it. He has to be in his 90’s by now. He also has a couple other toys in there as well! Thanks Hoovy!

[@evil_me]

Put a Haltech in it, those guys have great products and epic customer service!

[@fredstarr9690]

I have the Holley Term X in my 59 corvette resto mod and I love it! Not super expensive $1,100 bucks but you get all the Holley software and it's the same for all the Holley systems. Dominator, Term X, Sniper and HP.

[@hunterbrock2347]

It seems to me like replacing the whole piece of flat sheet metal on the radiator could just be replaced by two flat bars of metal that are thicker and can support the weight of the fans but would hardly restrict air flow at all.

[@garethedwards2883]

What a great engineer built the car with all the air input covers fitted, derrr ( and I know it was a race car but still needs to be cooled)

[@calebvrbas1885]

I can see a lip on that aluminum shroud...I wouldn't think that was blocking air flow? If anything just need more powerful fans to pull more air through the radiator?

[@devisionhun]

shouldn't need fans at all when moving... at idle in traffic, maybe, but that's more of a workaround than a fix.

[@PuerRidcully]

That's way too short of a lip to make it functional, in my opinion.

[@_Junkers]

By drilling holes in the mount i think they only lessened the impact of those fans

[@einfelder8262]

@@_Junkers Rubbish. The fans will suck the same amount of air (not much) through their own heavily baffled selves, regardless. Those fans are inadequate. Only a properly flowed shroud will increase airflow distribution over the cores, but still won't enable increased volume which is needed here.

[@apxl8r1]

I'm not sure if it has been done but I would make sure that the radiator is all cleaned out. Second, the fan and shroud are inherently defective for cooling the radiator at low speeds. Generally, above 30 miles an hour you aren't using your fans because the air flow is passing through the radiator faster than the fans can turn. That is why drilling holes in that shroud improved the higher speed temperature but as soon as you were at idle the temperatures went up. I believe the key will be getting a good fan and shroud set up So that the fans draw air through the entire radiator.

[@BlakieTT]

0:20 YES! The only man with BALLS BIG ENOUGH to be a goofball. 😎 Love you Hoovie!

[@Treesqueaks]

This is one of the best shows I’m the world honest funny true story’s being done live on the spot been a follower for 5/6 years never lets Me down and Christmas he always gives back to strangers so nice to see ppl get a gift from Strangers

[@ronniemullis8717]

I know you’re having a lot of problems with this car, but I have confidence that when your finished it will be an Awsome street machine.

[@Hated_Sien]

Cutting holes in the Shroud just caused more issues for cooling. Having the shroud solid isnt stopping air flow, as the air will still flow through the fan holes. But by adding the holes, you made an easy path for air to be sucked through the fans, and not being sucked through the radiator. The fans likely arent big enough or have enough CFM for the radiator. As for your ECU, go Holley or Haltech and completely redo everything in the wiring.

[@T.S.T2014]

Always keeping the dreams real Tyler, I cannot get enough of you episodes.

[@michaelporter3555]

I think moving the fans as far back as possible by boxing the fan mount is a good idea and will likely help. Like everyone else has said switching to a Holly EFI would definitely be a huge upgrade. You'll have instant data and tuning capibilities and you'll likely have significantly more power and a better running more drivable engine.

[@13coyote13]

Get a 4 core aluminum rad built for it, or buy a real 426 steel block and heads crate engine, lots of people out there would buy the existing engine from you, at least then there would be a little more authenticity to the car and no overheating issues as the aluminum rad gives you about double the cooling of the cars original radiator.

[@dafff08]

As a pc guy. Fans are everything. Put some in the front lip and some somewhere as a exhaust.

[@jasoncousins8689]

I would laugh hard if that wing folded in 😂

[@mitchhedberg4415]

That is a $100k wing... it is most of the value of the car

[@2013hwcamaro]

Milk that Superbird doing donuts in the snow clip for all it's worth Hoovie! It's not something you see everyday. Priceless!

[@seanlinne8383]

I would just give up on the ancient Fast system and go with a modern Holley system. Their customer service is great too.

[@d.michaelpratt5987]

Sorry I can’t add technical assistance to these comments, but I do want to say: this is a classic piece of Detroit iron. I sincerely hope you will continue to chase down its demons and make it into a good-driving Superbird, as Plymouth and God intended. Good luck!

[@Chief_5]

I’m sure everyone has told you Mark Worman would be happy to help. 🤔 it would be awesome to see it brought back to its original glory!

[@wolfoffroad]

+1 for Haltech! Buy an elite, complete loom, whatever sensors you need and its pretty straight forward install. It'll save you a buttload of money in the long run and be super reliable.

[@taelorwatson9822]

I'd be worried about drilling holes it if it wasn't a wrecked quasi superbird

[@logicreversed18t]

Me: I like this Hoovie guy. I wish him continued success. Also me: Please fall off the wing. Please fall off the wing. Please fall off the wing!!!!!

[@jeffherdz]

Your HOA must love you ! LOL .... Beavers have better looking dams ...than the wire job on that poor car. Get it re-done.

[@JACB006]

Cutting holes in the fan shroud will be great for cooling at speed .. but will play havoc with the cooling in traffic. This is why some OEM’s put neoprene flaps on the engine side of the fan shroud covering the holes in the shroud. At speed they would open due to incoming ram air, at idle they would close due to gravity and then be sucked closed by the fan, causing air flow to be pulled through the radiator, not pulling in hot air from the engine bay.

[@jmuench420]

I think a new computer and wiring would be really wise here, it looks like a mess and this is a six figure car after all. No reason to keep sending good money after bad.

[@Sniper269]

I agree with the comments on the about the fans. Standing the radiator back panel that holds the fans off a half inch and enclose the sides will allow fans of the proper CFM rating to draw air from the entire radiator. Poor starting and dieseling when shut-off certainly says the tune is off.

[@Maxzillian]

It's a real shame. As you dig deeper and deeper into that car it's pretty apparent it was built largely for aesthetic and barely for function.

[@stevesamuel6603]

Hey Tyler listen , I know it's a lot of work and obviously expense but better shift to Haltech or Holley systems they are the best in customer service and their products are on point , products that last and giving all help to the customer and helping to improve that cars performance for you will be their key goals , go for , even Goonzquad went for Holley with their classic 67 camaro ZL1 conversion , also the temp. gauge maybe slightly off and overheating while the car idles is mostly due to the way that cooling system is designed and put together and a bad tune system .

[@zedrone7975]

Definitely replace the old system with a new modern one and replace the temperature gauge or have it calibrated

[@cracklingice]

The metal panel is what makes the fans effective. It's part of why it still creeps up at idle. I'd figure the fans are not sufficient. Seal the fans staggered like he said but find fans with double the flow at least.

[@billsmith281]

I really encourage you to get it inspected by a superbird expert to verify it is....or isnt a "partially" rebody...or a rebirth with vin tag & a few parts.

[@gh2687]

He already had it Inspected. In a few videos back. Legit car

[@billsmith281]

@@gh2687 No he didn't, the guy didn't actually inspect the car.

[@rocknmustang]

@@billsmith281 The guy that inspected it knows his stuff more than most inspectors.

[@billsmith281]

@@rocknmustang correct, but he hasn't seen the car in person, Im sure there's plenty of hidden variations that could be verified...or not...if he looked at the car.

[@sticks-3991]

I thoroughly enjoy that you sat on the wing for the intro and thumbnail. Solid use of real-estate in my opinion.

[@JSonder143]

Complete rewire job with a correct 426 hemi is the way to go Tyler.

[@davehelmboldt6790]

Resto-mod. Since it's not a numbers matching Superbird, and it is a partial restore, it opens up a lot of potential for mods without ruining the "value" of the car.

[@Amerikanskis]

It's really uncomfortable watching you sit on the wing.

[@ApexCadaver]

That little white panel underneath the overhang on the dashboard top, looks exactly like a port cover, in line with how much of the car has been put back together… I would not be surprised to see it right there.

[@mycosys]

That beast really deserves a Motec and a decent wiring loom. If its gonna be a resto-mod racer, do it right

[@philzellmer6073]

OK, the old original gauges are probably on their way out, and as you stated, the fan mounting plate is flat up against the back of the radiator core. It needs to be a proper shroud of at least 3/4" depth to allow the fans to pull air from the entire core. Also check the voltage going to the fans. If it's less than 13.5 volts, the fans won't turn as fast as they should. As a professional mechanic, I've been through this on numerous vehicles with aftermarket fan installs. Sometimes poor wiring....but the most frequent malady is not enough alternator! When amperage draw goes up...voltage drops! If you're still running a stock factory unit of less than 100 amps, you really need to check this. Especially if the vehicle has A/C.....A larger alternator (130 amp or larger), may be necessary. There are several companies making bolt on high amp alternators for vintage muscle that internally regulate at 14.5 volts....Hit me if you need more info....

[@elitedavidhorne8494]

Rewire it. That was a mess in the glove box.

[@mypl510]

I have a FAST 2.0 in my project car, and when I called for help, I really threw them for a loop. It is a Datsun 510 with a Nissan Xterra V6. They are so used to those things running mainly on Chevys, that they had to kinda guess on what to do with my car. It barely works, and after a severe backfire, it really doesn't work. I am pretty close to yanking it out and starting with something else. And I only bought it because a friend of mine had his Datsun, with a similar setup, up and running with it. He eventually sold it off after he swapped to a different engine, and I might switch to what he has now.

[@derekheld1427]

What’s with you and cutting holes into your cars? 😂

[@glurak888]

Orange Cars even

[@carlbeaver7112]

After drilling the holes rubber flaps on the engine side are required over them. Problem is when you come back to an idle the fans are just sucking air the easy way - through the holes and not through the radiator. When you drive forward the air through the radiator will push them open and utilize the added flow. Next, I'd dump the difficult FAST and go with Holley Injection.

[@blaketindle4703]

Isn’t a 528 gonna have a higher normal operating temperature than a 426 anyway? Btw those hole cutouts are not Superbird coins. They have nothing to do with Superbirds since they were cut out of an aftermarket radiator installed in 2007!

[@mrniceguy351]

IMHO the problem with the shroud is how close it is to the radiator. Air flowing through the area covered by the shroud has to squeeze through a 5mm(?) gap to get to the fan. This isn't wide enough, so the fans are pulling the majority of air through 2 fan sized areas of the radiator. By cutting holes in the shroud you will improve airflow overall at speed. But in traffic you now have some air being pulled from the hot engine bay, under the shroud and through the fans without ever going through the radiator. This will make things worse. Ideally you would make a new shroud and space it out further from the radiator, if you have the space. If you look at most factory shrouds they cover the whole radiator, but are a lot deeper. I'm sure you will work something out! Thanks for another cool video!

[@PiDsPagePrototypes]

Two options to get it running right. First is MoPar approved, and that's a well sorted Thermoquad with factory Electronic Ignition. Finding someone who actually knows how to tune the Thermoquad is the hard part. The second, easier, option, is to fit one of Holley's current systems on it, which are designed to be easy to tune for all performance levels. Oh/And - Ditch that shitty Coil Over front end if you ever want it to corner properly - Torsion Bars with correct geometry will out handle any aftermarket front end set up.

[@philiparmbruster2396]

Jaguar had a good idea with the XJ coupe 6 cylinder. They had rubber flaps on the radiator shroud so that when the fans were pulling the flaps closed and when air pressure built up they opened.

[@fdmackey3666]

Dude!....You got screwed, dewed, and tattooed as we said back in the 1970s. That may be the best-looking Detroit Iron money pit I've seen to date. I really think you would be better off, assuming you plan on keeping the car long term, shipping it to one of the better-known restoration shops and having it returned to its original setup.

[@RantzCore]

You may need to resort to Tavarish Tape for cooler intake temperatures and possibly pick John Ross's brain about the wiring issues. Beyond that I love the Superbird and look forward to seeing it progress into a better daily driver for you Tyler! Best wishes moving forward!

[@channell11]

A lot of people seem to think fan shrouds and air flow aren't important. Yeah, you might be able to get away with no shroud or poor flow on older vehicles with under-stressed, low-compression engines that have large frontal area and aren't expected to idle in traffic with the A/C running, but high-performance engines in cars with small grills need good cooling.

[@terryeustice5399]

You must be a very rich man. To own so many cars. Your a envy of every car enthusiast out here. A beautiful car. Hope you get the overheating problem solved.