Cutting threads on a Sheldon lathe

Self taught hobby machining work. Cutting threads on a newly refurbished 10" Sheldon lathe that first left the Chicago factory in the late 1950s. I have far more to learn than I can offer, but here's what happened as I stumbled through my first attempt at lathe threading... the old way (long before CNC). More to come as I learn, but I'll take any advice I can get! I hope to add an old manual milling machine to the shop soon too.

[@kenbarone8656]

Welcome to 2022! I just bought a Sheldon EL-46, and your video helped a lot. I hope that mine ends up looking as nice as yours!

[@YankeeinSC1]

Thanks. Video is of course quite old but I still use the Sheldon frequently. I never have been ambitious enough to out fit a 4 jaw chuck nor a steady rest but maybe someday

[@YankeeinSC1]

Oh hey... do yourself a favor and be sure to upgrade to a high quality quick change tool post. Inserts make for repeatability and much higher quality work.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Thanks for the comments. I've since moved on to some metal threading for a small project and I've adopted the more standard "using the cross slide" to feed out and back to a known point for the next cut. The goal was never really to thread PVC, so much as it was a safer, cheaper way to shorten the learning curve!

[@kg6tgr]

I'd like to thank you for posting such a fine video. I cannot comment on the art of lathing, but I can truly revel in the restoring of a fine, old piece of equipment. I am guessing you have learned a lot about lathing since you posted this video. Post more on the Sheldon. Peeps like that.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Gee thanks. Believe it or not this old tool has become quite the reliable work horse in the shop. Since posting this, I have only used it for threads a few times, but it handles most turning jobs well. I have spent a considerable amount of time upgrading tooling, which has given me better tolerances than most of my buddies are able to hold with modern Asian equipment. Index insert holders and some home made brazed on cutters give me a wide adaptable array of tooling to choose from for almost any job that will fit in the Sheldon. May add a QCTP in the future at some point, but since I don't run a production shop so much as I help with repairs and prototypes maybe not, Set up time is not crucial for me on one offs and repairs.

[@YankeeinSC1]

You're right it was and it's already been adjusted. to a much tighter play. The handle's set screw was still loose from the recent re-assembly and the main crank attach screw had been working out. I'm still getting the area where this machine will permanently set, prepped with new paint, better lighting and wall protection and this was just a first try that I was so excited about.

[@douglassmith2055]

Nice lathe restoration. You now have a very useful tool for your shop. The lathe is considered to be "the king of all tools". The education you will gain by using it when the occasional need arises, is worth more than the machine itself.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Yep! It's been a great tool to have for both new prototype things and repair work for all sorts of items. Cant imagine not having the ability to turn metal. In fact someday I may even significantly upgrade or add a second larger HP and tighter tolerance lathe with a bigger swing.

[@nicholashacking381]

I'm learning to use my machine tools too. My 10" Sheldon is even older than yours - I think it came to the UK with the US army, during World War II. I admire the way that you've shared your mistakes and I'm impressed that you've managed to achieve what you set out to do. Thank you: you're an inspiration!

[@YankeeinSC1]

Awesome Nicholas. I use my machine all the time now, but I hardly ever cut threads. More often to true up welded parts and re-face things or resurface wear components for a longer service life. Good luck, it's a great tool to have in the shop and not everyone has one.

[@schwartzenheimer1]

Great looking rebuild, and also, good video effort. I like the explanation of the errors, and the video of them being corrected. Hope to see more.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Thanks Keith. I should have remembered that about the pipe threads, I have over the years, purchased a whole bunch of NPT taps and the taper was what made me think it was "sloppy". That's why mentorship is so important. I owe ya and some day I'll stop up to the cape and make good on that!

[@chrisstephens6673]

Excited and rightly so, some chaps shy away from threading for years, much like they do from parting, but that too is easy once you have the basics.

[@KeithFenner]

Thanks for the video, nice rebuild and I can see your efforts, you should be proud. That was a great idea starting with a forgiving piece of material. It's more customary to set cross side to zero after your touch off and at the end of each cut put out the cross side and return it to zero for the restart, then add next amount on the compound. Pipe threads are tapered so the female coupler was a bit loose at the start and tightened up farther in. Your on your way! ;{)------

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Nice video. If I could add anything it would be to start out from your piece 1/4-1/2". This gives you some room to bail should you miss your number on the thread dial.

[@par4par72]

That was a great way to learn. Put your tool "in lead" and travers the part to scratch the major, Let it run to stop, then back off with the cross slide to improve accuarcy. then adjust you bite of the next pass with the compound. First pass .015 or so slowly decreasing your bite size. and use "Some type" of lube..i could be soappy water. just lube after your done. Water/Metal= Rust. so... The tool is positioned ever so slightly "Above" Centerline. And 29.5 deg angle= no tool drag per pass!

[@mikep.coplin6800]

Use odd number for odd number threads and even numbers for even number threads, on your threading dial.

[@sfglassiii]

Nice video! The "Rescue-Restore on my 10" Sheldon has finally progressed to the point that I can start trying it out like that. Apparently our sheldons differ from most in the way the motor is mounted behind the headstock. Your video briefly shows the lower belt cover which is the only item my machine is missing. I have been unable to find any other diagram or picture showing that item. I would so much like to have some nice pictures of this piece showing a bit more detail.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Keith Fenner (of youtube fame) did a rebuild/giveaway of a similar machine. His video may have some better shots too. Next week some time, I can document that part for you with photos and some rough measurements if you'd like. It's a large casting, that would be very difficult to duplicate. I think you'd be best welding up a angle frame and covering it with sheet steel if you wanted to recreate a saftey cover. Send me an eMail address and I'll get you some better photos.

[@mikep.coplin6800]

By a machinist handbook, on some help, every machinist has one in there tool box.

[@YankeeinSC1]

Yep...Have had one for a long time now.

[@silverbullet7434]

Find a used machinist handbook It will help you Do all you want on the lathe, also the south bend how to operate a lathe book. Really you use the cross slide to back out the tool when cutting threads. The compound is what does depth of cut . There are guidelines to follow when cutting threads to help produce percentages of threads fits.

[@johnniebooth5723]

Nice video. practice,practice make perfect. I would think cutting a even number thread you could catch any number on the dial . Like Mr.fenner said your on the right track.

[@chrisstephens6673]

Congrats on first effort, not the way I would have done it but hey, it works! I did notice there is a large amount of backlash in your top slide, or as you chaps call it compound, That gap that appears when you withdraw the top slide is what gave me a clue. Should be a simple fix, if you think it important enough to bother.

[@scottlawless8854]

I happen to have the original manual and sales brochure of my 1938 Sheldon 11" if you need a copy. Oddly enough, my sheldon still has all the original tooling complete with the shadow box drawers ;-) Having some issues with my compound tracking without jumping during the cut so I may need to bother your expertise on how to get mine fixed up correctly lol. Great looking Sheldon buddy...they are getting harder and harder to find these days

[@YankeeinSC1]

scott lawless Thanks Dude!!!! Since I made this video and muddled my way through the first couple of attempts at threading, Ive: 1) found an online copy of the manual and 2) threaded a lot of stuff to very good tolerance results! I've also retooled quite a bit by adding a quick change tool post!!!

[@scottlawless8854]

YankeeinSC1 Nice! Which QCTP did you go with? Ours take an AXA correct?

[@YankeeinSC1]

scott lawless Yes AXA. I had to mill down the retainer plate that came with the eBay kit, so that it would fit tightly into the carriage's slot. The single best upgrade was the parting tool holder. Tool changes and set up time is reduced to less than 1/4th of what I had been spending with my old Enco tool holder. Doesn't sound like a big deal for a hobbiest, but it also provides a much more rigid cutting point. That yields much better parts!

[@scottlawless8854]

Oh yes...my lantern tool post and I have a very love/hate relationship, trust me lol. What brand did you get? I noticed several on ebay but then I made the mistake of pricing an ALORIS...had to remind myself that this is a "hobby" after seeing those prices! Thanks for the heads up on modifying the tnut btw.

[@YankeeinSC1]

scott lawless Bostar... $125 www.ebay.com/itm/271405301454?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[@mikep95133]

I've got a 1962 Sheldon and could use your help. I"ve not ever needed to cut threads in the years that I've had mine. I tried years ago to follow the threads on a bolt, but the bit was moving too fast or too slow to match the threads No matter the gearbox settings. I think what happened was that well before I bought it, that the 2 same size change gears under the swing out cover, are 32 tooth on mine. Suppose to be 44 tooth I think.. Could you possibly check your two change gears for tooth count to see what count they are?

[@YankeeinSC1]

Desert Mike DIY , sure will. As soon as I'm home next. Out filming some paragliding footage for a few weeks.

[@mikep95133]

Thanks! I saw you joined The Yahoo Sheldon Group, so I just did too.

[@duncanrae3525]

Hi , Do you know what morse tape number is use in the tailstock ? I've just got a 1940's single tumbler lathe with just the " live " tailstock centre & would need to buy a second morse taper for a chuck , thanks great vid .

[@YankeeinSC1]

Yes. On my sheldon, it's a #2MT. I met one of the factory workers that originally built these lathes in Chicago through an on line forum. He provided me with a treasure trove of data that I couldn't find anywhere else. Search for a support forum for your specific machine. I still use mine quite frequently. It has made and repaired hundreds of parts for me and my other motorsport and sport aviation enthusiast friends since I posted this video! The head stock is a #4 and the nose spindle is 8 threads/inch.

[@duncanrae3525]

Thanks for reply , just noticed live tailstock has " HEI CHENG no1 " on it & has 1-2 stamped on the knock out end flats , also just found out that my pillar drill has the same morse taper so I can use that as it has a 3/4 `` chuck , happy days :-) ,always wanted a full size metalwork lathe since I left school & had metalwork as a fave subject .

[@1hot57]

That’s pipe thread and they are tapered!

[@par4par72]

NPT stands for National Pipe Taper, so by rights they sould be done....tapered. But it's just pvc so no worries. If you want to know the the over/ under, Major /Minor. Of any thread. Check the Handbook. Thats the "Machinist Handbook" or simple enough, there are plenty of list online. Also, Use the cross slide to move in and out, not the compound. to improve acuracy. PVC will collaps in the chuck so put something inside the PVC. and chuck it up closer to the Machine chuck..trust yourself.

[@Donnybrook10]

ancient? you mean quality. When chasing, you didn't need to wait for the number 1 each time...any number would get you "into your groove"...that's where the expression came from.

[@StraightThread]

Pick up a copy of How to Run A Lathe by South Bend. There are reprints floating around available, may even be one by Sheldon. 0.015 depth of cut may be okay for pvc pipe, but in steel you should back off to .0.005 or less per pass or you risk the work riding up over the tool or possibly snapping the tip of tool off. Check out mrpete222's channel. He's got some good instructional videos. Stay safe!

[@cogpastorc]

I have some advice, don't call it ancient. It is the same age as I am. Just because you are young don't mean I or that beautiful machine is ancient.