Sheldon 11" Lathe - Spindle Removal and Belt Replacement

Replacing the belts on 1940's Sheldon SWQE plain bearing lathe. Removing head stock spindle and back gear, adjusting motor drive pulleys, chuck removal/installation, spindle nose dimensions.

[@aramirez8427]

WOW.....Thanks for the class

[@kenbarone8656]

Very helpful video! I just picked up an only slightly abused Sheldon EL-46-B. I just set the lathe back on the pedestal and this video will help me a lot. Thanks for posting it!

[@kaceesavage]

15:18 5L540 Thanks for the video my grandpa has an old Sheldon and it looks like it will need belts sooner than later.

[@barnyardbikes54]

Glad I could help out. Thanks for watching.

[@TheJackBaker]

Thank you so much!!!! I am working on my family farm and we have one of these

[@lacaver64]

Ive the older model 1936 with flat bend and its an overdrive he have the motor upside the mecanism is identical nice machine mister

[@brokenmike76]

If you need some information about the Sheldon lathe and tooling I have one also. I’m in New Jersey also

[@barnyardbikes54]

Cool! Thanks for the watch and subscribe! This lathe came with a nice Dorian AXA tool post. So I'm looking to make some tool holders for that (video to follow, soon I hope). I'm still looking for that spindle gear that I broke. If you know someone that does Sheldon parts if love to hear about it. As it is I'm slowly spending way more than the cost of the gear to fabricate a replacement.

[@pauls1022]

Nice video! have you ever pulled the bearing caps? I would think pulling them would make it easy to lift the spindle assembly out.

[@barnyardbikes54]

Thanks! Much appreciated! I did take the bearing caps off, and sure you can lift the spindle out that way, if you cut the old belts. I think you'd be hard pressed to put new ones on the assembled spindle, though. Plus I wanted to show the process for anybody that had one of the versions with timken bearings. Thanks for the comment!

[@henrytingle5565]

My lathe is almost done! I was ordering oil for it and was going to use "Mobil 100772 Vactra No.2 Way Oil" for the ways but was unsure if I should use a different oil for the spindle and other oil locations, or if the vectra oil was ok as an all around oil. I checked the ISO ratings and I think its acceptable but I want to make sure I oil the lathe correctly. Finally I was wondering if you had the original manual or a PDF of the lathe. I found one but its kind of short and I was trying to unseize the tail stock and I was looking for a better diagram as I think I am just going to have to blowtorch and hammer the snot out of but I wanted to make sure I was doing it justifiably.

[@barnyardbikes54]

That's the way oil I use. I haven't had any problems. I don't have a better manual than the ones that are online. The tailstock is pretty robust. But you should be able to reach up from under the lathe bed to feel what's holding it on. Mine has makeshift arrangement. Pretty much, just get that main nut free and the whole assembly should lift off.

[@henrytingle5565]

Sorry to bother you again. I am still taking my lathe (same as yours) apart as it needs a full rebuild. What where the size (length) belts that this lathe took and the kind (shape)? Also if one is doing a full rebuild would it be ok to remove the 4 bolts and the spindle bearing caps to remove the spindle? I am unsure if this would cause any issues (as I am a bit of a novice)? Thank you again for your time and consideration. It is greatly appreciated.

[@barnyardbikes54]

I'm looking back at my mcmaster carr orders. I'm pretty sure the belt I that fit were 50L560. You're good to take off the bearing caps in any situation. They are plain bearings and the spindle is located by the tension via the rear end ring. There's no precision in the bearing cap bolts. Good luck. Don't be afraid to ask anything else. I'll help however I can.

[@timheimerl1447]

Could you possibly do a video on what the proper operation is for features of the lathe? Or if you have a link to a manual? I just bought one of these.

[@barnyardbikes54]

Thanks for watching! I've had a few requests for this. I'll do something when I get back to my shop. Stay tuned. There are some manuals available on Vintage Machinery vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2133&tab=3 Your exact machine may not be there (mine isn't), and there's a lot of variability from year to year, especially on the headstock and apron. But you should be able to get a good idea from those. Good luck!

[@wladimirlopes5841]

Saudacoes do Brasil.Esta certa essa rosca 1 1/2".Não seria um pouco maior.

[@scottgiard183]

where did you source a replacement drive gear that you said you broke? mine is missing : (

[@barnyardbikes54]

Bad news: I didn't. I brazed it back together and turned the bore as true as I could. I looked into replacement but didn't find good options. There are people that deal in old machines. They might have an original part. Not for cheap if they do. But probably cheaper than having one custom hobbes. I also thought about getting a stock gear from McMaster. They have the right pitch and tooth count gear, but I was never confident it was the right pursue angle. You'd have to turn the right bore on it if it did mesh. I'd ask around at machine shops in your area. You might come up lucky. Probably expect to play a few hundred bucks. Best of luck.

[@scottgiard183]

what type of brazing rod did you use? i found someone who has a broken one for a good price

[@barnyardbikes54]

@@scottgiard183 I used 3/16" SiCuSn to DC tig braze, fairly cold...something like 40A. 1/8" would have been better. Fair warning, the gear did bend a bit. It runs noisy now, but it runs. Maybe oxy would be better because you could spread the heat out more evenly.

[@scottgiard183]

@@barnyardbikes54 Thanks for the info Much Appriciated!!