CV Axle Reboot & Replacement With CV Boot Stretch Mod

Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video, we show you how to remove, reboot and reinstall CV axles. We perform a reboot procedure to fix the OEM CV axles rather than replace them with inferior aftermarket ones. We also show how to do an extended/stretched CV boot modification for those who may have lifted trucks and are experiencing problems with premature ripping of the inner boots. This repair was done on a 2002 Toyota 4runner Limited but the information and technique we use can translate to other trucks and passenger vehicles as well.
If you are not planning to reboot, go to 41:25 to view the removal and reinstallation of the CV axles.
Here’s a quick reference list of torque specs for the repair/mod:
Front Differential Fill Plug - 29 ft-lbf
Front Differential Drain Plug - 48 ft-lbf
Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
CV Axle Nut - 174 ft-lbf
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut - 105 ft-lbf
Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut - 67 ft-lbf
*PARTS*
*Front Differential Fill Plug Crush Washer - #12157-10010
amzn.to/37Et8VI
*Front Differential Drain Plug Copper Washer - #90430-24003
amzn.to/37uARFO
*Toyota CV Reboot Kits - #04438-35060
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
*Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Full Synthetic Gear Oil (I use this for the transfer case and both differentials)
amzn.to/33eDHeq
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*Yost Bench Vice
amzn.to/2ofa4LD
*Yost 6” Aluminum Vice Jaw Caps
amzn.to/2PopCrd
*Yost 6” Soft Vice Jaw Caps
amzn.to/2YPAQbo
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set
amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters
amzn.to/300BRRE
*Utility Blade
amzn.to/2JmZQjO
*Red Paint Pen - to make match-marks
amzn.to/34ngQid
*Clean Streak Degreaser
amzn.to/2rOOz5L
*Brake Cleaner
amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*Spring-loaded Center Punch
amzn.to/2MKfebY
*Ball Pein Hammer
amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Snap Ring Pliers
amzn.to/2ZZyZEB
*Brass Drift Set - to drive off tripod
amzn.to/2BrXfki
*6 Ton Jack Stands
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks
amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Rotary Hammer Chisel Set - thin to help get axle nut cap separated from hub. amzn.to/2OmiMCe
*Chisel & Punch Set - To further separate axle nut cap from hub.
amzn.to/37Fwdor
*1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long - In case you don’t have an impact gun
amzn.to/343Vcix
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set - if you're going to use an impact gun
amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*Metric Allen Head Socket Set - for front differential fill and drain plugs.
amzn.to/3Mfbag7
*Oil Drain Pan
amzn.to/2QK6kh9
*Brass Hammer
amzn.to/2QS3Ay7
*OTC Long Prybar Set - having a long one is good for knocking CV axle into the differential. Having a long set will also come in handy for other jobs. amzn.to/2O7pWKZ
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - includes smaller sizes like popping the axle nut cap free of the hub amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Cotter Pin Set
amzn.to/2OoD38K
*Plastic Mallet
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*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - Need for Axle Nut
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - For lighter values like tie rod castle nut amzn.to/2U2vUA4
Here’s a link to a Good Pair of CV Boot Clamp Pliers:
amzn.to/2UGUcfF
*Gear Oil Pump - so you can fill the front differential
amzn.to/37xiCQ0
Here’s the CV Boot Clamp Tool Set to Stay Away From. They also sell these at local auto parts stores. They are Complete Junk:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
This Universal Clamp Kit isn't the same one I used in the video. I believe it's much better:
amzn.to/33fVpOJ
Here’s a link to a Bicycle Cable Stretching Tool in case you want to use a zip tie when doing an Extended Boot Modification:
amzn.to/2GqiqXA
A 35mm Impact Socket isn’t usually part of someone’s tool supply so here’s a link to a set of large millimeter impact sockets:
amzn.to/2Gb5fuf
Here's a link to the OTC 6295 Front End Service Kit
amzn.to/2t8ynK9
If you’re in the market for a powerful cordless impact gun, here’s the Dewalt gun I used in the video:
amzn.to/2GoeLJY
*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

[@ZEROCOOLAGE]

This is alot of work. I rather inject the grease with a turkey Baster into the CV BOOT & seal the hole with JB Weld, than do all this for my shit-box 08 GMC ACADIA SLT. Great Tips and things I'll use on a better Vehicle one day not currently the one I own. $150 a pair for front Axles looking not bad after watching you do all that work. Thanks brother 👊🏽😎

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, we agree you gotta pick your Battles but we think the extra effort is worth keeping the OEM CV axles.. - Sean

[@DarrelVanhorn]

Thank you very much for this video. I don't regularly work on my vehicles but your video gave me confidence to tackle this project. It took me all day but I got it done. The part numbers, the torque specs, and the tips to make things easier (zip ties to support the axle, the prybar to remove the inner cv, and just push the axle in to seat it) all worked for me. You rock.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Michael, great to hear our video gave you the confidence to tackle this job and that it turned out well for you. Thanks for taking the time to share your success story. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!

[@flying4thrills]

Tim: can’t thank you enough for the video. Just had to do this to my 97 after the outer boot was torn in a front end collision. I bought the big box auto parts generic boot kit and ended up doing it all over again with the factory parts. I would have been clueless without the information you shared in this video. Well done sir! 🍻

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Frank. Glad our video helped you out. We appreciate you taking the to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@fourpointsadventures]

Great detailed video without too much unnecessary talk. Well Done!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. We're glad you like the video. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@aureliusrising1268]

Tim, you're a damn hero. Appreciate your effort so much. Actually using your vid on rear 3rd member removal now, but you're a legend my friend.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. We appreciate your kind words. Hope the job went smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!

[@eljefeslash]

Awesome work as always, Tim and Sean. Learning so much from your videos. My wife always asks "are you watching another 4Runner repair video?" Gotta say I'm practically rolling on the floor laughing at 45:10 - those shoes and the awesome shoe laces, Sean!? Love it. I'm going to break out some cardboard when I get home and revive my old break dancing moves. You guys are awesome!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you're finding our videos helpful. Sean does like his old school shoe styling. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!

[@nickrose3882]

If no one has commented it yet, the hose clamps are actually the same style as PEX. You can use a sharkbite crimp pex tool. I happened to have one in my plumbing box and it worked FANTASTIC.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's great information. Thanks for sharing.

[@scubbarookie]

I'm pretty sure that it is the original factory boot. This is great. Your covering a major component of the 3rd gen. Some of the CV Joints on these 3rd gen can really be upgraded to superstock with lifetime replacement if they break! This awesome, thank you Tim.👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like the video and you're very welcome.

[@lturner4369]

These are great videos and very helpful. Exercise caution when prying the CV axle out against the driver's side differential case. The lip that surrounds the dust seal is soft and deforms easily. A slide hammer equipped with a CV puller such as the OEM 27058 got my resistant driver's side axle out and didn't damage the case. But, on the passenger side, that puller wouldn't fit between the dust seal and housing. We used an impact hammer against a lobe of the CV axle and it popped out with only slight damage to the axle.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

L Turner Glad you like the video. You are correct that you have to watch that you don't bend that dust seal when prying the CV axle out of the differential. The prying method works but it's sometimes frustrating and I've also used the technique of just getting on the lip of the inner joint with a pry bar and knocking it loose with a hammer. Thanks for sharing that specialty tool option.

[@zmbombr]

Thanks Timmy. Been watching this a few times prepping to do my 02 Taco. And the bearing hubs too. So helpful! Any way, a tip on those axle nuts or spacer nuts, instead of using the brakes just use a vertical stop to turn into, on one of the lug studs. A 2x4 cut works great. Place it vertical from the floor to a stud.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the tip. Somebody else mentioned this as well a while back. My only concern is putting all that force on the lug nut stud but I guess they are pretty tough and won't bend.

[@crazyscotsman1976]

Just did this mod over the weekend on both sides. did all-new suspension front and rear with Oldman emu, jba uppers. did the starter as well, since it was apart and easier to get at. also replaced lower control arm bushings with some Whiteline. for the life of me, I could not fit two of the washers in passenger side forward one. hopefully, the alignment shop can get em in lol. last weekend was welding both front and rear coastal bumpers with dual swingouts..cant wait to relax and just enjoy some BC backcountry. thanks for the tips Tim. all your videos were a major help

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job getting all that work done. Glad our videos are helping you out. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@edgarrangel9464]

Great video Tim. Now I gotta save my OEM’s. I was thinking of buying a new axle complete.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Edgar Rangel you could buy an OEM axle and use your ripped boot CV’s as a core charge. Or pay the core and have an extra axle on hand

[@russellwilkins5424]

Another fine Vid Timmy and Sean. Thanks for giving me the confidence to do my own Reboot and stretch. The job turned out perfect. I also siliconed the 4 edges of my boots to help keep them water tight hopefully. Viewers, Pls send these guys a Super Thanks $1 to keep these Vids coming. Russ in Minnesota

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Dang russel! Thanks for the tip! That’s nice of you. These boots still haven’t ripped but where the “stretched” part was started to leak out a bit, next time we will FIPG that end. - Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Russell, great to hear the Reboot went well and thanks for the support of our channel. Money isn't our main motivator though. Money helps but our favorite form of payment is hearing from people like yourself that our videos have helped them out. That's what motivates us to keep making videos. So, thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!

[@russellwilkins5424]

@@TimmyTheToolman Sean you Rock dude

[@esau5434]

Great video! Just one tip it's always a good ideal to run some tape around the races as you knock the fixture off the shaft. Fortunately, the races did not fall off or else you would have had a bunch of needle bearings on the floor. Keep the videos coming.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've had that happen on a Tacoma CV shaft. Why those races were able to pop off the Tacoma axle but not the 4runner axle is interesting. So yeah, it can happen and finding all the needle bearings is a pain in the butt.

[@johnmurphy1402]

Great video Tim. Job went like clockwork. Extremely confident taking it on because of your tutorial! Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks John. It's great to know our video helped give you the confidence to tackle it. You're very welcome.

[@eyeofthedriver]

Great, very helpful video! 3 notes from just doing an axle swap on one side of my Tacoma: 1. I opted to not drain the diff as the oil in there is pretty new. jacking up the side I was working on only resulted in only a little oil coming out when the axle was removed and didn't make any more of a mess than coming out the drain plug. I only needed to add 7 oz of new oil when done and didn't have to remove the drain plug or replace that crush washer. 2. the tire on the ground trick works well for removing the axle nut too if you're doing this job on your own 3. I'm not sure why you were able to just pull the axle out after disconnecting it, but mine wouldn't fit between the sway bar end links and the spring, so I ended up having to remove the end link and drop the sway bar bracket to get enough clearance.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, you can certainly avoid draining your front diff by jacking up one side at a time. I'm glad the tire trick worked for you. We try to remember options in our videos for people who are working solo. With some models, your Tacoma being one of them, the sway bar end link does get in the way of pulling the CV axle out. We actually have not worked on Tacomas very much.

[@stetkal]

Thanks for the how to. Just finished mine. My tripod would not come off. I had to beat on it for an hour or so. But everything else went smooth.👍 Almost forgot. I used a old pair of bull nose plyers to pinch the clamps.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and great job getting the job done.

[@1upgreenshroon]

Thanks for taking the time to make this and sharing the knowledge. Suuuper helpful. Gonna be replacing the cv's on my 1st genTundra this afternoon.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Scott. Glad you found our video helpful and good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!

[@1upgreenshroon]

Mushroomed the CV axle pounding it back in with a regular old mallet. Guess I finally got an excuse to buy a brass one. Luckily it's just a cheap $45 Cardone CV !

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@1upgreenshroon That's a bummer that happened. Next time try using a long pry bar like we show in the video to pop the CV axle back in the differential. But yeah, a brass hammer is a nice addition to your tool arsenal.

[@1upgreenshroon]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the tip. I'll try that on the other side. I was eventually able to get the CV started by pushing it in with my hands and swearing a lot. After it was started a plastic deadblow hammer got it the rest of the way.

[@akletke1]

Did this job last weekend. Alternatively, instead of taking the lower balljoint and tie rods apart at the joints, I simply took the 4 bolts that hold the balljoint to the knuckle off. This allows free motion of the knuckle just as if you had taken both the balljoint and the tie rod off loose. Unfortunately I purchased a new NAPA maxdrive axle. When I got it back together I now have a hell of a vibration. Will be doing a reboot to the OEM axle and swapping the NAPA part out this next weekend.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah Andrew, the way you did it is fine. I decided I liked breaking free the tie rod and LBJ connections over removing the 4 balljoint bolts because re-torquing those 4 bolts might cause some fatigue to them. People have been known to have a balljoint bolt shear off. Also, lots of guys like me use loctite on those balljoint bolts so leaving them alone and not having to re-loctite them is another reason. That's weird you have a vibration from the Napa CV axles. I didn't know the balancing of these axles was such a big deal. I wonder if you just got a bad set, like the shafts are slighting bent or something else is way off. These axles aren't balanced like a driveshaft is. Make sure you got your wheels torqued down properly. Usually a bad vibration in the front end is due to wheel balancing.

[@anthonyreddy2834]

Love your vids, keep up the greatness!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Anthony. We're stoked you like what we're doing.

[@sunilparas6606]

Excellent excellent video Tim as usual.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! We're glad you like it. Good luck with the job.

[@jamessnyder9050]

I always go to your videos when contemplating tackling a job and you’ve helped me without fail! The self-satisfaction of doing myself rather than paying some mechanic is priceless! QUESTION: It’s been like 4 yrs since you did this job and I’m curious on how it held up?? Thanks!

[@jamessnyder9050]

6 years ago (couldn’t edit my post)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sean's boots are holding up fine. He did get some leakage at the CV shaft connection (Boot Stretch side), but he tightened the clamp and all is good. Great to know our videos are helping you do your own work. That is our goal.

[@jamessnyder9050]

@@TimmyTheToolman That’s enough validation for me, gonna order those boot kits today. Gathering parts to refresh front steering components, control arms, old man emu shocks, etc. Have ~ 3” lift.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jamessnyder9050 Good luck with all the work. Happy Wrenching!

[@macattack1392]

​@TimmyTheToolman I was getting ready to ask the same thing. I finally getting/got another Toyota truck so went down a rabbit hole of mods & found this. Very interesting.

[@supra9532]

Again awesome video and in depth in details ... 👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for your kind words & taking the time to comment. Happy wrenching.

[@hello32098]

Wow, best video I've seen on this so far. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome. Good luck with the reboot.

[@ebybyron]

Great videos!

[@iadgreen28]

Hey Timmy. Just followed your video and did this yesterday. Instead of using different aftermarket clamps I switched the small clamps. So small for inner I used for the outer and the small for the outer I used for the inner. You have to tweak the clamps a bit but it works. I hope it lasts!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing this technique. Hopefully it lasts until the next time you have to reboot.

[@tewatenebillemery5584]

thank you Tim showing how replace boot

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@SC-dl1nz]

Thanks again for another informative video Timmy!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome!

[@HueyT12314]

Hello Tim, great video. Very informative. Can you tell me what type of bench vise you have?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like the video. Here's the bench vise I have: amzn.to/2ofa4LD I have the 6" model.

[@keetawkhem781]

Hey Timmy, appreciate the detail in the video and all of the provided information. I have watched a couple other videos on this same job and they have removed the 4 bolts holding the LBJ to the spindle instead of using a puller for the outer tie rod and LBJ to free the CV axle. What are your thoughts on using that method (removing the 4 LBJ bolts) over the one you used in the video?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can certainly remove the 4 bolts of the balljoint instead of breaking free the outer tie rod and lower control arm connections to the lower ball joint. We use loctite on the 4 balljoint bolts and after they are installed I don't like messing with them if I can help it. I'm very familiar with using pullers so I can get both of those connections disconnected pretty quickly. Another thing is the difference in how easy it is to get things realigned. I know I can easily align the tie rod and lower control arm to the balljoint but aligning the 4 balljoint bolts back up to the steering knuckle will be a bit more of a test of patience to get them in correctly and not cross-threaded.

[@raymiller1207]

Perfect video!..thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Ray. We're glad you like the video.

[@sivucit]

Excellent Job. Even though manual says you need to match mark, it is not needed, I have done dozens and it works very well. Use knipex ear clamp cost only 19 dollar which is much better. Also use universal ear clamp one with knipex it works well as well. Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. Glad you like the video. I do now own a set of ear clamp pliers as well. They do work pretty good.

[@ericluke847]

I remember the service manual for toy 87 hilux saying that if you clean the joint really clean with a solvent it will dry it out, so its good to pack/work some new grease directly into the joint before squirting the rest into the boot-so its lubed a bit before the stuff squirted into the boot has a chance to work its way into the joint as you drive. Also, if you clean with diesel or an oil based parts cleaner, it wont dry out the joint as much while cleaning it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, packing some grease into the joint isn't a bad idea. But, with centrifugal force, as soon as the joint starts spinning, the grease will be quickly dispersed throughout the joint. So, in my opinion, it's not a huge concern to just pack all the grease into the boot. Thanks for the comment.

[@shaolin29]

Happy New Year, Tim and Sean! Question: I literally just finished doing this reboot on my passenger cv as it had finally torn completely around after driving on it torn on the mean streets of the Bay Area for about a year. I followed your vid to a T. When I buttoned everything up, and test drove it, everything seemed ok until I drove over speed bumps or dips. Driving over them it feels like there is some metal to metal action going on underneath the passenger side. Not grinding, but “poking”/clunking. Thought I didn’t seat the cv good enough so I put the rig back up and took it out to reseat it, and sure enough noise is still there. Any thoughts on what I should do next or what it can be?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know what could cause that other than you didn't get something properly tightened. Have you double-checked everything?

[@boxerboggs18]

Yall rock!! Thank ya much!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

boggs901 You're welcome Brother! Happy Wrenching.

[@Chris-sd5sq]

Great tip about the grease around the C clip and the position of the clip opening being down, which I applied to my 99 sienna. A jack stand worked nicely to help hold the axle level while I "pushed" it in at the axle housing flange with a length of 2" X 3" and a small sledge hammer. In the video I noticed fluid dripping from the differential seal after the CV axle was inserted fully. Mine does the same until I push it 1/16" more against the differential. I can pull the axle out 1/16" where it will stop coming out and start leaking. Once I push it forward again, it stops leaking. Has it been your experience that once everything else has been assembled and snugged up the 1/16" movement and leaking does not occur? Was that the way it worked out for Sean? Did the leaking stop for him once everything was reassembled? BTW, I did replace the seal. Cheers and thanks for the super helpful videos!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's a little cavity near the seal where gear oil can pool. When you insert the axle, some gear oil might spill out and drip making you think you have a leak. Wipe it off clean and then keep an eye on it. You might see another drip or two but then it should stop. If you continue to produce a drip, then you know the seal has been compromised by the removal and reinstallation of the CV axle and you'll need to replace the seal.

[@Ash-cy7yw]

Awesome video thanks as always Tim. I'll be following this to replace my passenger CV that shattered this past weekend off-road. My plan is to just replace with a NAPA CV for now to get it running then reboot my originals for spares. I think I'll do the boot mod, it seems to make sense to stop the bellow ribs from rubbing. Question I have is; is there a reason the outboard boots don't or can't be modded this same way? Somehow I've missed if that was commented on or pointed out sorry if you're repeating the answer.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a good question about the outer boots. It seems the rubber inner boots are the ones that are more prone to tear from friction than the outer plastic boots. We don't know of anyone who has done the same stretch mod to the outer plastic boot. All the extended specialty aftermarket boots made to address the ripping problem are inner boots from what I've seen which is more confirmation that it's mainly an inner boot issue rather than an outer boot issue.

[@nathanconnell6048]

Hey Tim, thanks for the vid. Do you think the inner joint could be removed from the diff without removing the outer from the hub first? Was wondering if htere'd be enough play after disconnecting from the ball joint to skip some steps and change diff seals. Thanks.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've never tried it Nathan so I can't say for sure if it would work.

[@DavidDNeel]

It may have been commented on but you can also use the tool for pex plumbing clamps to tighten the outboard clamps. I did and it worked perfectly.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We hadn't heard that. Good to know.

[@iKaylacsR-tist-hu8ql]

Hey Timmy, you have a great video that is very informative thank you. I don't have any question regarding the CV joint installation EXCEPT that one regarding the wheel spacer because some comments from outside say it's not recommended that could create an unsafe issue but I've been dreaming to have that to make my truck look more aggressive. Can you advise please thank you.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There are many who use wheel spacers with no ill effects. But, supposedly, adding wheel spacers can change the forces applied to your wheel bearings that the engineers who built the vehicle didn't intend on. Instead of trying to explain to you what's happening when you add wheel spacers, check out this video from "Engineering Explained". kzbin.info/www/bejne/nojMm5mlpMqGr7c He does a great job explaining what happens when you add wheel spacers to your vehicle.

[@RotoRCol]

lol this is a toy hammer to pull off the cv axle, great video a Tim

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Don't know if you're talking about the little toy plastic hammer or the little toy claw hammer. I have much bigger hammers but the hammers that are on the top of my box are the small ones. I think I will break out the big boys the next time.

[@esau5434]

Tim, I misspoke I was confusing those needle bearings with those on a universal joint. I should have never question your expertise☺.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No worries, but actually you are right like I mentioned in my response to your original comment. I haven't seen this possibility with 4runner axles but Tacomas are different and your suggestion of taping them is a smart one.

[@petertruong3119]

Thank you for your videos. What kind of grease do you use on the splines?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I just used a multipurpose grease. It's just to help with the insertion of the axle into the differential. It doesn't have to be anything special.

[@andrewm.4168]

FYI. If your truck has manual hubs, not only is hubside of axle different, the tripod attaches differently. There is no outer C-clip. There is an inner c-clip like the one that pops into the diff. It's a pain to get the tripod off. Easiest way I found was remove clip below the tripod, hammer tripod deeper on shaft to expose internal clip, then pry clip off. Then tripod will come off. Also, the three bearings do come off easily, dropping the needles all over the floor, so be careful. Thanks for your video, it still helped me a lot.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, you're right, the manual hub axles are different and I believe all the 1st Gen Tacoma axles, even the ones for ADD are the same way. I learned there were two c-clips for the Tacoma axles when I was helping a friend reboot his and also learned that the roller over the needle bearings can come off, because it did on us and we were searching for needle bearings on the ground. Fun Times. Glad our video helped you out.

[@andrewm.4168]

Thanks for the reply. I did side #2 today in about 1/3 the time. I carefully wrapped the tripod in a piece of duct tape to hold bearings together, then set it in the freezer to contract. Then when I put it back on, I used a 1 1/6" socket over the end to bang it over the internal clip. Went on easily. Hardest part of this job for me was getting axle back into the diff. It's a nightmare until everything is lined up just right, then it pops right in. Love your videos, thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@andrewm.4168 Good job getting it all done. Yep, popping the axle into the differential can be a test of patience. Glad you like the videos Sean and I are making. Happy Wrenching!

[@christopheralexander5121]

Tim, great video. Was wondering if there is any way of stretching the boot without removing the axle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You couldn't do it like we did it but I imagine somebody could probably come up with some Macgyver way. I think it would be a pain in the butt though. I would just pull the axles.

[@zmbombr]

Thanks for your vids, they are very helpful. Why not use stainless hose clamps for the boots? A tip for getting the axle nut on off without a helper on the brakes is to brace the hub using the studs against a bar or even 2x4 vertical to the ground.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

People have used regular screw down hose clamps with success. Thanks for sharing the tip for getting the axle nut off without a helper.

[@alziegelejr6262]

Another great video be doing my own axel next week question for Sean was wondering what springs are you running since you have that ARB bumper thanks guys

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I opted for the 650lb spring when I ordered the coilovers from toytec.

[@davidreyes2644]

Nice video Tim. Can you explain what is the deal with the matchmark on the tripod and what would happen if i didn't do it and place it back ramdomly?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They suggest getting the tripod back in the same spot because the parts wear together. Is it a big deal? Probably not. If you didn't make matchmarks, I wouldn't sweat it.

[@AnimalHill-ms8ux]

Very informative!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're happy to know you found our video informative. Good luck!

[@lukestoyz]

Kartek offroad sells Porsche screw type SS boot clamps with the sides knurled away from the boots. They are great, and I have installed them on 2 of my Toyota’s and have had them on for years. You just have to take the old ones down to match them up as I don’t have the part #s. Also when installing make sure they don’t contact the lower shock when rotated.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for sharing this.

[@roberthill2010]

Hi Tim, Great video, just like your other great clips. Can you tell me the OTC Front End Service Kit part number? Thank you very much - Rob

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Rob, Glad you like the video. It's OTC kit 6295. I've gotten tons of use out of this. It's a great purchase. www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526561487&sr=1-2&keywords=otc%2Bfront%2Bend%2Bservice%2Bset&dpID=41apsehGOiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

[@Needle620]

What happened to the red inner silicone cv boots? I thought I’ve seen a video of you working on it, now I can’t find it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We haven't done a reboot with silicone boots but we've worked on somebody's rig who was running them. I think this is the video you were looking for: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZDKgZx6q81srJY

[@TheChapMX]

Timmy, doing this today as I rebuild my junk. Did you all have to add fluid to the front diff? Not sure if I should just change mine while I at it and if so what’s the best way to fill that bad boy up since there isn’t much room. Thanks man

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, if you gear oil is old or you're unsure how many miles are on it, I'd renew it. Auto parts stores sell little plastic pumps that you can hook up to bottles of gear oil to pump it into the front differential with a plastic tube.

[@davidreyes2644]

Nice video tim! What if i put adjustable clamp instead of the original cause i do not have the tool. Do you think this will affect the balance on the wheels?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

People have used adjustable clamps with success. It wouldn't affect the balancing.

[@bruceolsen9863]

Great Video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Bruce. We're glad you like it.

[@howabouthetruth2157]

I always wondered exactly how these CV axles are designed on the inside. Now I know. A little more to them than I originally thought.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm glad we could de-mystify it for you.

[@howabouthetruth2157]

Yeah man, thanks Timmy!@@TimmyTheToolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@howabouthetruth2157 No problem!

[@parkerhawks5925]

great video and great instruction, I am doing this repair right now. I guess it held up alright? No one has asked about that

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it's holding up fine.

[@boxerboggs18]

just a thought, would red locktite be advised for the wheel spacer nuts?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, I wouldn't use red loctite. The red is a thread locker and really makes it hard to remove again. For something like wheel spacers, you could be removing them many times for different reasons. If you want to use some loctite, use the Blue 242 loctite.

[@marouf8394]

Thanks for your demonstrated.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

thanks for taking the time to comment! we appreciate the support

[@lashpek1]

Awesome detailed video! Is there a difference between driver side and passenger side CV’s?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No, both CV shafts are the same. Glad you like the video.

[@hv4285]

Thanks Tim, I'll start on this tomorrow. My boot ripped at the same location as your buddy's truck and I noticed he has 1" diff drop kit installed just like I have, I suspect that's why the fins ripped towards the end instead of the middle. I never worked with those clamps before, can I tighten with regular pliers or is a pair of CV boot clamp pliers a must have?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The CV boot clamp pliers are sort of a must-have. You'll struggle with regular pliers. Good luck with the job.

[@TheRio966]

Hey Tim, loved the video! In 2021, I'm still rocking the 1996 OEM axles. As I prepare for a 3in lift, both boots are either leaking or slinging grease. Is rebooting still the best option or would it be preferable to go aftermarket axles?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I would reboot and do the boot stretch mod for the inner joint. They do make aftermarket extended boots that are made of silicone that people have used with success so that's another option.

[@oneguyonekit]

@@TimmyTheToolman can you link to those aftermarket boots, please?

[@eddvale2805]

Hello Tim. How did that boot extension mod hold up? I know it’s been awhile since you posted this video, i was wondering how’s the result after time has passed. My boot got tore up after 1 day after i lifted it 2”. I bought the reboot kit and thinking of doing the same thing u did on your video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The boot stretch mod is holding up well for Sean.

[@eddvale2805]

Timmy The Toolman ok Tim thank you

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@eddvale2805 You're welcome.

[@CHESTURCH]

Thank you for responding to this persons question! I have a 3 inch lifted fj and it is shredding boots. We found a set of oem axle shafts for 150$ and i plan to reboot them using this method! This is why i love youtube!! So much help!!

[@jacobstevison6770]

How well does this hold up? I have a 3" lift with a diff drop and I have replaced my CV boots twice in 4 months.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The boot stretch mod has held up very well for Sean.

[@franciscomirandaiii4000]

Hello Tim, always having a good time watching and learning from your videos. Looks like Moog 3401 crimp boot clamp set is no longer in the market. Do you have other brand/kind that you could recommend. Greetings from the midwest.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This is the kit I now recommend: amzn.to/33fVpOJ

[@ever2gut1]

Ended up using a 3 prong puller to get the tripod off, you all got lucky with the brass drift!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Weird. I wonder why it was so stuck on there.

[@ever2gut1]

@@TimmyTheToolman might be the original one from 20yrs ago haha

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@ever2gut1 Probably is but it still shouldn't be that hard to get off. Oh well, you got it done, and that's what counts.

[@ever2gut1]

@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I am still surprised, now to finish the job!

[@possecomitatus77]

Nice Video

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks, glad you liked it.

[@dalandser562]

You can stick a 2x4 that's long enough to hit the ground through the wheel studs to keep the hub from spinning when torquing spacers - not sure if it would work for the axle nut though.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's a good trick. Maybe it would work for the axle nut.

[@slimboiphat]

Can you do a video on code p0335 - crankshaft sensor error? I've replaced my crank shaft sensor recently, but I'm still getting this code with trouble starting. I think my wires might be bad, but I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing it. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I haven't done much with diagnosing electrical problems but I do own a multimeter. I guess this is your opportunity to learn about checking wires for connectivity. I wish I could be of more help but I'm sure there's got to be good videos or write-ups on how to test wires and circuits. This is definitely an area of automotive service I'd like to learn about and be proficient at.

[@fixitric1676]

Hi Timmy great video! I am debating between the OEM boots or going with ORS high axle boot. Since you have done a lot of work on 3rd Gen 4runners what would you recommend and have you done the ORS high axle boots?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Fixitric I just helped a friend at work reboot his CV axles with some Off-road Solutions inner boots. It was sort of a hassle but it's doable. You have to cut off part of the old boot and put it under the new boot so it mates correctly with the CV axle. Getting that cut off piece and the new boot onto the joint was a pain in the ass. He's going to come over my house some time soon and we'll reboot the other one. This time, I'll make a video of it.

[@fixitric1676]

I purchase a set of salvaged axles that I am planning to reboot with the ORS but let know where you purchase the outer boots. I think ORS also sold the outer boots. Thanks again for all the great videos, Rich

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Fixitric Hey Rich, my friend at work just used the ORS inner boots. He used OEM Toyota boots for the outers. He got the the outer boots as part of a complete reboot kit from Toyota.

[@hticzon]

Great vid! Is there a Toyota part number for the CV tripod itself? Or a size that I for a replacement? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know if you could just buy the tripod. That might be a question for your local Toyota dealer.

[@twwtb]

I just changed my valve cover gaskets and your other video was very helpful. This is another great video. I'm sure I'll be doing this job before very long too. Sean's 4Runner looks like it has some very nice aftermarket upgrades. I'd be interested in knowing what he has done. How much lift did he put in and what did he have to do to make the lift work right. I see the front diff drop and the CV boot stretch mod is a good idea. What had to be done in back. I believe the reason for limiting the front diff drop to about 1 inch is because it changes the front u-joint angle quite a bit. What kind of roof rack is that? Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad our videos are helping you out. Here's Sean's build thread on www.Toyota-4runner.org. You'll be able to see all the mods he's done. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/163299-infamousrnrs-2002-limited-bu-ld-thread.html

[@TheDesertRat31]

About getting the CV back into the diff: just as a confirmation of how you shoved it back in, essentially. There's a video of a CV replacement on a FJ cruiser, and demonstrated as a Trailside repair. They did the same thing. They just popped it in by shoving it a couple times. I have a 4th gen 4runner, which is the same front end as that, and really similar to this one here. Last time I did a CV swap I banged it back in with a BFH and a cold chisel as a drift. It was very stubborn. I'll try the shove in method next. I've got to re boot my OEM cv's soon and do the swap. I'm glad I didn't turn the originals in for a core refund.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sometimes the CV axles pop in easy and other times not. I like using a long pry bar that you can get onto the lip of the inner joint and then strike with a hammer to pop it in. If I have somebody helping me, I have them hold the axle parallel with the ground for a straight insertion. With the outside joint drooping towards the ground, that will make it harder to pop in. If I'm by myself, I will use some bailing wire tie up and support the outside end of the shaft parallel with the ground and then grab my pry bar and hammer to knock it in. Also, the factory service manual does state if you have the open side of the c-clip facing downward, it can help with the insertion. Happy Wrenching!

[@jazzylamel]

Hey Timmy the tool man, I would like to see if you can do a video about the throttle body, and idle air control (IAF). The reason being is that I was at my hometown driving and I stop to get gas, and my truck just stalled instantly, I couldn't figure out what it was, I try to get it started it again but it was stalled out again and I couldn't figure out why. I read in the Toyota 4Runners forum that it could be one of those issues with the throttle body and idle air control. Let me know what you think.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

In our Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Video, we show how to remove the throttle body and clean it up. However, we haven't removed an IAC for a cleaning yet. We will most likely do this video at some point. I just don't know when. I am planning on doing the valve cover gaskets and a valve adjustment on my 98 4runner so maybe I'll do it then.

[@alexandersmith2218]

Hey Tim I love your videos it’s like a talking Owners Manuel for a 4Runner. Was wondering if that had helped the issue at all and how long it has lasted. Just lifted me 02 4Runner with 104k and I hear a popping noise when I turn. I believe this is the issue

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes it has helped a lot but what we would do different since grease has snuck from the smaller boot portion where the stretch mod is located is add a little FIPG to seal that end. Otherwise the boots have not ripped, they just leaked past the portion where the stretch mod is located.

[@houseofhlub5809]

I would like to go buy some used axles to re boot (there's plenty around me if I look). I want to reboot an extra pair and swap the. out for the ones in my t4r so I can lessen the downtime of the truck, kinda like what you guys did in the vid. Are all the front axles for 3rd gens the same (2wd vs 4wd)? I searched online but couldn't find info, just mostly stuff on people doing conversions.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Having an extra set is smart. All the 3rd Gens with 4wd have the same axles. 2wd 3rd Gens don't have CV axles.

[@kiddflo5]

I'm not sure if anyone has mention this but I've read that you were suppose to use different clamps so the boots wont budge & slide. Im not sure which clamps exactly though. Great video nonetheless! I'm gonna tackle this job in a few weeks myself.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We did end up making our own inner clamps to get a tighter fit around the shaft for the boot stretch mod.

[@brettolsen508]

Hey Tim a few questions 1.) I went to my Toyota Dealer and they gave me 2 new CVs, but they are Duralast Gold CVs not OEM. Is this common for dealers to do this? 2.) My OEM CVs are fine it is my inner CV boots that got tears in them shortly after I lifted my 4runner. I didn't want to deal with taking them apart and rebuilding them as I am new to all of this and don't want to mess anything up, plus it would take more time. That is why I went and bought new ones. My truck has 160.000 miles on it now, but now I am wondering if I should rethink this and just get a boot kit and fix them up even though they have a decent amount of use. 3.) Would I have to go get another alignment after this? I got one right after the lift and have only about 1000 miles driven since the the lift was installed. I really hope I don't have to fork out more money for that again. Always appreciate your videos! Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's interesting that a Toyota dealer is selling non-oem CV axles. I don't think that is common. But, maybe OEM CVs are in short supply. If it were me, I'd buy the boot kit, and keep my OEM axles.

[@jessevielleux7889]

Hey Tim! Awesome video! Just finished my boot mod and was curious if you guys had any issues with the zip tie down the line? Did it leak at all or has it held up? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Jesse, we ended up swapping out the zip tie for a metal clamp. In the video description there's a link for a Universal Boot Clamp Kit in the "Tools" section that would work well for making a custom size clamp for that inner connection.

[@jessevielleux7889]

@@TimmyTheToolman Perfect! thank you sir!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@jessevielleux7889 You're welcome Jesse.

[@seans158]

Hey Tim, when would you determine to change out your CV axles other than a torn boot? I'm going to be lifting the rig this month, and am going to change out all my bushings, new UCA's, LBJ's, diff drop, quick disconnect end links and whatever else I'm forgetting while im under there. My current boots look fine atm. Wondering if I should just do this as well. Thanks for your time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

After a lift, it's pretty common for the inner boots to tear. You might get lucky and the boots last for a while but I think it's a smart move to go ahead and reboot them while doing all the other work and also do the boot stretch mod to prevent a boot tear from the boot ribs rubbing together do to increased angle of the CV axle.

[@seans158]

Thanks for the reply! Since it's been awhile since the reboot, how has the boots been holding up these past couple years?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@seans158 The boots are holding up well. No tears.

[@TheGoober2100]

Any news on how the boots are doing my cv boot recently tore from it rubbing on itself so I was looking into doing this for my truck

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's been holding up so far. He's got several thousand miles on it now with no tears.

[@SL-vs7fs]

Hi Tim, thanks for all your videos. My LBJ failed and the CV axle fell out. There's a yellow grease inside (the one in the bottle in your video). I believe it's polyurea. Do you know if there's a way to just buy the grease? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. I'm not sure you can source just the grease. I've never tried.

[@theschuntz]

Hi there, I followed step by step on this video and the other on how to replace the CV axle seal (2004 Tacoma 4x4). I just wanted to say FUCKEN THANK YOU!! And I even double checked your torque and part numbers and they are correct. Looking forward to doing more work on my rig using your videos. Thanks!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're Fucken Welcome! We're happy to know our video helped you out.

[@gerardosanchez389]

nice video Timmy, I'm currently installing a 3" lift & while I'm waiting for oem lbj I'm gonna do this mod while I have everything apart. I have a question, is there any way to tell if you have stock one axles? my 97 4runner has 271k miles that I just bought last month from the 2nd owner. mostly highway miles, never off road.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I can tell by looking at the boot clamps. The OEM boot clamps have a certain look to them. If you send me pictures of your CV axle boot clamps, I can tell you if they are OEM. My email address is: [e-mail]

[@gerardosanchez389]

ok I will send you a pic as soon as I take them off, but before that what size is the front diff fill plug? the drain was a 10mm but I don't have the right size for the fill plug

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It looks like Toyota didn't use the same size allen plugs for all the 3rd Gen years. You might have a 12mm fill plug. On my 2000, both the drain and fill plugs are 10mm

[@SteezerZimmer]

Hey Tim, thank you sooo much for the videos we all really appreciate it, keep up the good work. I have a quick question, my boot is torn on my CV I don't think it has been torn very long so I am hoping to save the axle and just reboot it. you mentioned that Sean was on aftermarket axles, I assume this is so he can keep driving the truck and do the reboot repair whenever is clever? I plan on doing something similar as my truck is my daily driver. do you recommend this? I guess you would end up doing the work twice but I need to truck for work, and the second wouldn't take very long after already doing it haha. Thanks again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Having a set of extra CV axles is a good idea especially if you 4wheel. Another idea is to try to find a wrecked rig at a PickNPull that you can grab a set of OEM axles from, reboot those, and then put those on your rig. Then you can reboot your original axles whenever and those can be your trail spares. OEM axles are superior to most aftermarket brands. You can tell by looking at the clamps whether they are OEM or not. Take a look at yours so you know what to look for and then search online for Picknpulls in your area to see if any of them have some 3rd Gen 4runners on their lot. Ideally, you'll find one that hasn't been there that long so it won't already be majorly stripped down and the axles are gone.

[@zmbombr]

OEMs also usually have Toyota stamped

[@zmbombr]

I have a doner truck and an extra set of axles. Are you suggesting that when wheeling I pack an extra axle and tools to replace on trail?

[@benrobinson6907]

Hey Tim, what brands for cv axles would you recommend. I'm not made of money and I can't afford to buy a new OEM cv axle because they want to charge me almost 300$ for a new one. Any advice on what I can buy to save some money?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've heard the Napa lifetime warranty ones are good.

[@johnshaw9687]

any update on the extended boot mod? worth it? how long have you been running it? etc

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It's been working well so far for Sean. I don't know how many miles he has after the repair. He did mention some grease was coming out from the small side of the boot but that's just a situation where you might need to clamp the boot tighter on the shaft of the axle. This mod isn't perfect but I think it's the lesser of two evils. If you do nothing, you'll most likely have your boots tearing very prematurely from them rubbing together.

[@W7DSY]

Hey Tim, have you actually found that the boot stretch does help keep the boot from wearing?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it absolutely does for those with a lift and the angle of the CV axle allows the boot ribs to rub against each other. With the boot stretched out, the ribs don't rub together so the friction can't cause the boot to tear.

[@W7DSY]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks! gonna do it.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@W7DSY Good luck with the job.

[@LM-47]

I had some Import Direct (O'Reilly store brand) CV Axels installed earlier this year. The boots are already dry rotted and beginning to leak. I think I remember the mechanic that installed them said they are longer than the stock ones to accommodate for the 2.5" lift I have installed. Does this make sense? I saved the OEM CV Axles like you guys did, and plan on doing the mod performed in this video. Just wondering if my original OEM CV Axels are compatible with the lift?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Your OEM axles are compatible with the lift but the lift can cause the inner boots to tear. This is the reason for the boot stretch mod to pull the ribs of the boot further apart so they don't rub. There's also some companies that make extended boots that you can purchase.

[@benrobinson6907]

Hello Tim. My outer driver side cv axle boot is ripped pretty good. Is there a way that I can replace that boot without taking the cv axle off. My inner boot is perfectly fine, just the outer boot. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm pretty sure you can drive that outer joint off with a brass drift and hammer. The shaft locks into the joint with a c-clip similar to the one that holds the CV axle into the differential. But, I have not tried this myself so you might want to confirm what I'm telling you by looking up different sources.

[@js274]

Thank you for the video. Is it better plastic or rubber boot? Rubber boot is a chepaer then a plastic boot.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's two different materials for the boots. The inner boot is rubber. The outer is plastic.

[@timsvids5983]

Tim, there's a tool for those metal clamps. It's similar to the tool you used on the zip ties and works the same way, but it allows you to bend the end to lock it in place before you hammer down the tabs.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I have the tool you're talking about but it's for a different style clamp that the Toyota kits don't come with. The Toyota clamps are a crimp style and the fold over style. The type of clamp you're referring to is the zip tie style. I bought that tool thinking I'd need it but it ended up the Toyota clamps were different.

[@timsvids5983]

@@TimmyTheToolman Yea, I've used the fold over style many times and hate them. The crimp style that you show at the end from Moog are far superior. I have to do my boots when I get back to the shop and wanted to catch up in a couple weeks. Been retired for many years. Thanks for the video.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@timsvids5983 Yeah, you're welcome. Good luck with the rebooting.

[@LolueVue-dt5xr]

Hey Timmy, I have a 2.5 lift on my 3rd gen and was wondering if I buy the Napa extended cv axle would I still have to do the boot stretch mod? Because if that’s the case then I’ll just mod my oem one.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I have no experience with the Napa extended CV axles. This question might be better asked on a Toyota forum or Toyota Facebook page. Good luck!

[@jayao9758]

Did you also index that last axle housing, or just the rollers to the shaft? I think you index all three pieces together. Be interested if you're weeping out of those strapped ends as that factory grease is very runny. They make a screw type clamp that has rounded off edges that won't cut into the boots, and they seal up better for wheeling.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We kept the tripod, shaft and tripod housing all in alignment. We got rid of the zip ties and went with a DIY CV clamp kit that ended up getting a tight squeeze on the shaft. Do you have a link to those screw-down clamps you mentioned. Maybe I'll buy some.

[@mariovelasquez3296]

@37:50 Did the ziptie hold? Getting ready to rebuild my oem, wondering if I should do this mod. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Mario, the ziptie held but we didn't have it on there for too long. We replaced the ziptie with a metal clamp that we made from the universal kit I supplied a link to in the video description. I did find another option but never tried it. They make stainless steel cable ties. I found them in the electrical isle at a Home Depot. They were made by the company Commercial Electric and I thought they would be a good option instead of messing with that awkward universal kit I bought. Here's a link: www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-11-in-Stainless-Steel-Tie-10-Pack-MLG-300ST-10/203531940 I thought that over time, the plastic ziptie might break so I figured some type of metal clamp would be better.

[@Raevenswood]

Cool that it held long enough to fix it right. For long term I imagine the zip tie would crack and become bridle in a short amount of time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's what I was thinking as well. I did buy some stainless steel cable ties at Home Depot in the electrical section of the store thinking they would be much easier to use than that DIY CV band clamp kit I bought from Moog but I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.

[@zmbombr]

I checked the link there for cable ties, thank you. They look useful. Why not just use stainless hose clamps?

[@aww807]

Hey just looking into addressing my front two axles with broken inner boots. I'm curious if it makes sense to rebooting the original OEM axles, I have 210K on them. I noticed you did this 6 years ago, are the axles you rebooted still functioning? If so, how many miles are on them?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sean's still using the CVs. They probably have around 175k on them.

[@dlim1984]

Hey Timmy and Shawn, how did the zip ties on the inner boot hold up? I added a mild lift and I can see the ribs rubbing pretty good and want to try extending the boot out.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We switched out the zip ties for clamps. Guys have had luck with using regular screw-down hose clamps. Maybe give that a try.

[@dlim1984]

@@TimmyTheToolman gotcha, I'll try that out 👍 thanks!

[@Terry-ww9tr]

Hey Timmy. Love your videos as much as I love my 3rd Gen runner..... Well almost. ;).. Timmy doesn't the diff drop corrects the angle of the CV axle?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

My buddy Sean has a differential drop on this truck but his CV boots still ripped. I think the diff drop helps but your CV axles will still have more of an angle than stock after a lift if it was lifted a decent amount. Maybe Sean should have put a bigger diff drop in. I haven't asked him if he used the recommended diff drop for the length lift he installed. With a very mild lift, maybe and inch or two, I imagine the CV angle won't be that bad. I'll ask Sean more about his lift and get back to you with a more complete answer because he knows more about lifting our 3rd Gens than I do.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Terry, I just spoke to Sean. He says he remembers the max diff drop you can install is 1" but he can't remember the reasons why that is the max. So, if you lift your front end 3", you're only able to correct it by 1" and you are still going to have a steeper angle to your CV joint.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Terry, the quote below is from an informational thread for lifting 3rd Gen 4runners on the Toyota-4runner.org website. "The Diff Drop On 4Runners with suspension lifts over 2", the front CV axles operate at a greater angle which increases wear and tear and can cause them to break under off-road conditions. One simple cure for this problem is to lower the differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the CVs. So with a 1" diff drop on a 3" lifted truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a milder 2" lift."

[@Terry-ww9tr]

That is correct. When i did the TRD 5100s i actually had to trim the left diff drop by a hair so that the diff wont rub on the front cross-member after dropping one inch. The CVS looked pretty strait after the drop thought. Will keep an eye on the boots for any rubbing.

[@gerardo3441]

I just did mine today using this split boot. Worked like a charm and is the way to go if your axel is still good. My shop wanted $700 to replace the whole axel and, after buying a couple of tools I managed to keep the cost well under $80. I cannot stress out enough how important is to preserve the lip of the original boot that goes towards the transmission in place. Cut out the old boot around the edge without removing the original strap. Once the old boot is out, then cut out the old strap away (ask me how I know). That end of the axel is oddly shaped and you need the original boot’s end because it matches the contour of the part and will give you a nice flat round shape to slide in your new boot into. If you don’t use it, the grease will leak out and water will get inside. IT IS VERY CRITICAL not to install the split boot directly to the axel end side.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Never tried the split boot. I wonder what sort of longevity they have.

[@summerforever6736]

this is a bot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

[@benzoil0453]

Hey Tim, I know this video was a ways back but I was just wondering if you guys had to change the seals shortly after doing this? I am about to do both axles on my 2000 Tacoma and I hate to change them because they don't seem to be leaking right now. I know it makes sense to do it right now while I'm in there but I know it's kind of a delicate process to get them in there just right so was just going to ask for your two cents. I did watch your seal replacement video as well. Thank you guys

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sean's seals have held up fine. I did a CV axle replacement on a GX470 and we didn't get lucky and one of the seals started to leak after the job. There is a nice tool that Wit's End makes for the seal installation. It's featured in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h161gGhog9mDZ6M The seal driver with the extended handle makes driving in the seals so freaking easy. I drove in seals using that combo on a buddy's 3rd Gen and it was a piece of cake. We link the Wit's End tool in the video description.

[@benzoil0453]

@@TimmyTheToolman Well I will definitely be snagging up that tool and will just do the seals while I'm in there. Thanks Tim and Sean!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@benzoil0453 I think that's a smart decision.