Now that’s a sicmod!!

Doug Thorley makes nice headers 👍🏼

Are they for the 3.4L ? Or even my 4.7L would be good. Sadly I don’t instagrams, face plant or any other thingys

I just completed this project on my 98 Tacoma, but mine was for the front shaft seal. All the info from this video still applied though. Once again, Tim's generous contribution to this world has saved the day for me. His attention to detail is second to none and I feel so much more confident going into a project I've never done before after watching his videos. Tim, you are a godsend as far as I'm concerned. Thank you so much for all your time and effort to help others. NOTE: I did struggle with one part of this job, that being the nut removal. On my truck that bugger was cinched down so tight my breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I bought a beefier and longer breaker bar (20in) and it still wouldn't budge! The only way I could break it loose was to set things up so I could get my floor jack under the handle and use the hydraulic power of the jack to lift (and thus turn) the breaker bar enough to bust the nut free. What a relief to finally feel that thing come free!

so if one of my cranks moved and i align it back up im good right?

Super helpful video, having some problems at idle but also a tough time turning the engine over. I plan to do the IAC testing but appreciate the throttle body info as well. Can’t seem to find the Wits End jumper wire anymore. Any other recommendations?

I have a GX 460 Lexus 2019 I’m at 60,000 miles right now. Do you think I should change out my coolant right now or wait until 100,000 also should I do a drain and fill or should I do coolant flush

Will this kit fit for a 01 Tacoma 4wd? But with a 3.5 long travel kit

I have a question for you, it turns out that when I release the handbrake it makes a sound like a metallic click or a squeak but that only happens when I release the handbrake when I raise the handbrake lever there is no sound

Frig me, realizing you have to take the plenum off to get to the spark plugs on passenger side of this engine 😭😭😭 and if not for the spark plugs, most certainly for the fuel injectors. Thanks for this... I'm terrified, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

Is it flux core? Because it looks like it. Good enough for a trail fix. Still to expensive unless you have an extra 500 dollars lying around. I absolutely hate flux core for anything other than a temporary quick fix.

Clean it thoroughly and lube with grease with anti-seize

Always come back to this for a maintenance refresher. Best DIY info out there.

Just saw a couple of your videos and learned how remove the throttle body and check and clean the IAC Valve. Thanks for the great video.

Hey Tim I have been following your vids for a while and they are really well done kudos to you and Sean. I am going to be doing the rear backing plates soon on my 2002 because they are crumbling. My vehicle has ABS so it has the tone ring. You didn't seem to have that on this rig or did I miss it? And by the way I bought Duane's tool and like you said I contacted him directly and he did indeed give me a very nice discount on the tool purchase so again thank you.

hey tim thanks for video up here in WA we dont have emissions anymore we did for awhile ,I am wanting to get rid of the cat converter, cant find anythhing on youtube, can you suggest some ideas or point me in the direction , 2000SR5 4RUNNER THINKING ABOUT PUTTING A V8 IN AROUN 10000 .THANKS TIM ANS SHAWN FOR ALL YOUR GOOD KNO EDGE YOU REALY HELP US OUT ALL THE TOYOT...A WORLD LOVES YOU . DARREN

Thanks for the video, it was super useful to know what each of the sensors is for.

Hi Tim, what if I wasn't able to torque my wheel bearing nut to the full 205 ft/lbs? Right around 150 ft/lbs on both hubs there was no one heavy enough with me to hold the tool down without it "rocking out". Will this drastically decrease the life of my bearing?

IM so glad i bought this over the 12 ton

Idle relearn after cleaning this?

Hey Tim I installed the locker in the locked position but the switch wasn’t in the locked position and won’t engage the locker. What do I do to reset it?

I used this about a month ago. I’ve done about 1500 miles and the housing is dry as a desert and the oil is still full. Thank you! Is your buddy’s front differential okay?

@timmythetoolman, it seems like some of the online FSMs that are hosted do NOT include the manual transmission section. Have you found that to be the case also? Curious what volume or edition you have for yours (outside of it being for a 2000). Thinking about purchasing one to have on hand going forward.

You're video's are the best! Finally a video that is exactly what I'm dealing with. Thank you so much !!!

I like to take scrap metal of the same thickness and create a rough mock up of the welds I'm about to do on my vehicle first. Then lay down several practice welds until I'm #1 getting good penetration and #2 happy with the aesthetics. Thanks for another great video guys. Always much appreciated!

Tim, Awesome video. You explain why as well as how you did the installation. One question: What tools did you use to bend the mounting brackets to fit the mounting positions? I will certainly use the suggested cardboard template to figure out where to bend the brackets. Thanks for your great work. We appreciate it.

Nice work Timmy! I think this was an extremely advantageous pair of mods for me. I was lucky to have Tanner bless my rig with his weld porn.

Nice vid. Great content!

INPUT REQUEST: 06’ gx470 95,000 miles, had same issue of delayed engagement/disengagement. took cover off, no transfer case oil! was already there, decided to replace the seal, clean things up, applied new grease. i have taken apart and put back together 3 times consistent with your directions (and how i found my gear positions) BUT NOW I HAVE A FLASHING DIFF LOCK LIGHT (each of the 3 times I have put it back together!). any input is greatly appreciated! everything looked good when i took it apart, dry, grease was not too firm, electrical connections appeared clean and intact. The actuator case does have 135 painted on the side, possibly a used unit put on here before I bought it a year ago. The actuator cover has the blue gear built in, as you noted 4runners have.

INPUT REQUEST: 06’ gx470, had same issue of delayed engagement/disengagement. took cover off, no transfer case oil! was already there, decided to replace the seal, clean things up, apply new grease. i have taken apart and put back together 3 times consistent with your directions (and how i found my gear positions) BUT NOW I HAVE A FLASHING VSC (each of the 3 times I have put it back together!). any input is greatly appreciated! everything looked good when i took it apart, dry, grease was not too firm, electrical connections appeared clean and intact.

Glad I found this video. About to do this on my 2001 230k. Sick of the burning oil smell.

Great job Timmy the Toolman Do i still have to cut the dust-shield with 199 mm calipers part or its only if i use 135mm? thx

I have an issue with my toyota hilux 2kd head light not working and dash light with tail lights when turn on..Only signal lights are working and brake lights. Anyone with the same issue? All fuses are checked ok. I'm suspecting the switch now

Is it ok to replace a metal seal with a rubber one? When I serch for spare parts I only find rubber ones for the front axel. I found metal one for the pinion seal. I need to replace seals both on front and rear.

So clean under there! Would love to upgrade mine one day lol

Good job Tim! Bring on the rubicon!

Appreciate you guys and the work you put in for the community! And thank you for the support 🤝

Its all good, I've seen poopy welding last for years !

Nice! Definitely more challenging welding under a vehicle in awkward positions. Came out pretty good though and should hold up and do its job!

Thanks Tim!

Lower link mount reinforcements are certified 🥩. Takes a bit to get them to fit up nice but they worked significantly better than my lotus skids that I previously had.

Thank you so much for the secret on that dreadful clip on the driver cam cover!

Whoa! this is a great video; now my post will be long, probably the longest; I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, standard, 2RZ engine 4.2L; after a fuel pump replacement from a street mechanic he let me drive it with old fluids, I blew the head gasket, only drove like 25 miles but enough to blew it because the truck was parked for 5 years prior. after that its been parked for last 3 years but now I need it all the sudden ASAP because I have no vehicles; have a 2015 Chrysler Van which is half way engine swap due to hydro lock from my daughter but had to stop working on it after a work injury, then the only vehicle i had was my company van but they asked for it just yesterday as I am on indefinitely leave, so since yesterday no way to move. For the Tacoma I was going to do the whole engine, including pistons but that was a plan before I was hurt, now I need to act on it and start taking that head off to send it to the shop; i have mostly everything except few things I will replace while in there; I was going to do the clutch but decided will only do the head gasket; your video takes me half way there and you give lots of detail and info which is awesome. I have seen other youtuber one had to almost lose the whole engine to get to the head and I am hoping that is not the case with mine or i would be in trouble; I will remove/ probably replace the radiator, which I have, may replace the water pump. oil pump and maybe timing gear while I am there or leave it for the whole overhaul later on, don't know. this Tacoma has 209K miles and I own it from zero miles; will be 24 years with me this December so I may not even need to replace many of the parts I have for replacements. When the truck did not started again after the head gasket blown, the same mechanic came by and we did a compression test giving zero on cyl 1 and 3 and 180 on cyl 2 and 4. That was the least time it ran then have been for 3 years on the side of my house. It is a shame I am not done with the Chrysler because I do have a Max Jax Lift in my garage installed to work on the Chrysler but since I had to stop, car is on the lift and cant use it. I was planning to fix the Chrysler then the Tacoma but now in my condition makes sense to get the Tacoma going as the labor is way less intensive than to getting the whole engine out of it; may be running in couple weeks if I start today and I will right after this post. If you have ANY recommendations for me they will be very welcome. I have fixed a 2004 Toyota Corolla brought it from dead to almost factory condition after 2 failed street mechanics stunts; had no choice but become my own. Between you tube, the Haynes manual and sometimes me bugging the hell out of Toyota Techs, I am confident I can do it carefully. Cant leave my house until that car is running so it is critical. I subbed.

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That’s the transmission “line pressure” cable. Not “kickdown”.

Just completed the valve cover gasket job and now I have a "check engine light". Is this common and will the light go out? Truck runs great!

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The dye injector is tricky.i have one myself. Here's the problem: if you adjust it, for example, so the chamber holds 1/4 ounce, when injecting the dye and the piston is bottomed out, they will still be due in the hose even if you bleed the air out of the hose first as done in this video. Because the chamber held exactly 1/4 ounce it can only force 1/4 ounce of dye before the piston bottoms out. That will leave dye in the hose. Hard to explain. Just think about it. What I do is set the chamber to hold about 1/2 ounce. I hold the injector vertically so the air is on top. Now when you screw the piston down all the dye will be forced into the system and the hose will have air in it. A slight amount of air may enter the system but now you know all the dye is in the system. Almost nobody demonstrating this time of injector seems to realize that due will remain in the hose if you do it the way shown in this video. Let me explain it a different way: If the scale is set for 1/4 oz, the chamber will hold exactly 1/4 oz. The piston will push exactly 1/4 oz out of the tool. Bleeding the air out is good but the piston, when bottomed out, will push exactly 1/4 oz out of the chamber. The last to leave the chamber will be in the hose no matter how you figure it. You probably injected about 1/8 oz into the a,/c system. It should be obvious why this is important. Another way to get around this is to set the chamber to hold 1/2 oz. Then bleed the air out of the hose and note what the scale reads and then inject 1/4 oz. When done, the hose will be filled with the excess dye and some may be left in the chamber. Dispose of that. It's no big deal for DYIers because you only inject dye every once in a while and possibly only once in the life of a vehicle.

Thanks for the video, I have a 2000 Tundra and the metal actually broke out is there anyway to fix that ? I got the whole assembly out of the door as the metal was torn wide enough for the assembly to come out of the door.

Thanks so much for posting!!! I'm getting ready to rebuild my W59 transmission, and I'll be using this in combination with the FSM and a W58 rebuild video to help get the techniques and tools down for the rebuild.