How to model threads in SolidWorks for 3D Printing (Full Tutorial)

[@dougcox835]

I watched this a few times and made my threads and it worked perfectly. I didn't get the clearance big enough and it was super tight but I used silicone lubricant ant that did the trick. The funny thing is, KZbin won't stop suggesting this video to me.

[@g_rr_tt]

To anyone watching, Solidworks has a feature under insert > features > threads and from there you can select the surface you want threads on and the parameters based on standard thread sizes (i.e. M10 x 1 or 1/4"-20). for female thread patterns, be sure to change the parameters to "cut" threads and "tap" for male, "extrude" and "die". This will save you from having to manually create your threads.

[@rayknn]

Tips for solidworks: Use convert entities, and when seleting reference geometry > axes, you can actually select the face of a cillinder and it will place a axes in the middle of it. Great tutorial!

[@benmorris9925]

Legend. First genuinely practical tutorial I've found on threading!

[@johnpelitidis6297]

Thank you very much Conor. You instructional is the best out there... and you narration about why you decided on things is tremendously important for the viewer to understand. ... Outstanding !🙂

[@ssiewnad]

I have over 29 years experience using Pro-E/Creo, this was very helpful to help me make the transition to SW. Thank you very much

[@sondrewks]

Thank you Conor! Absolutely great video. Very thorough, great for learning your ways around Solidworks. Hope to see more videos on solidworks and more of your engeneering knowledge 😊 Much love from Norway

[@ivytechengineer]

Excellent video with great insight for creating threaded models that can be 3D printed. Very well done.

[@abdulmajeedsuhail7468]

As a noob, I really have learned a lot from this video. Thanks a lot!

[@Aurelian76]

Cheers Conor, you're awesome. It worked start to finish. Now off to the 3D printer (Public Library unfortunately) Will see how it goes.

[@coreyknowlton7827]

Great video! Drew it, printed it and it works like a champ! The combine tip is very useful. Hadn't done that before, but will definitely use it for other threaded projects. Well done! Thanks.

[@chrisswift8725]

Really enjoy following this along; drawing in SolidWorks as I go; great to learn about required tolerances and tips and tricks for 3-D print beginners. Much appreciated.

[@armoredinnovations2331]

Thanks for the combine tip! It's made other projects easier to complete

[@DublinV1]

Thank you for this tutorial gave me a starting point to design threads on SW for 3D printing

[@michaelkostan4279]

Great tutorial, just made my first 3D thread, Thank you !

[@jstokes6726]

When you created your offset geometry by 0.2mm for the thread clearance, there was no need to manually change the original lines to construction. The offset command has options to auto convert base or new geometry to construction type. Regardless, well done and very helpful.

[@conorwalsh_net]

I hadn't known that, that's very helpful thank you!

[@mustafasuzun]

great trick when you make it with subtract. Thank you.

[@mallyclips9213]

I tried this thread and it works well. Thanks for the video!

[@hasankassas5751]

Thank you for creating this well detailed guide for threads, helped me a lot

[@LuUhsar]

Thank you for this great tutorial! Exactly what I was looking for!

[@ravikattakwal]

Very practical video. Love it. Please keep making such videos man!

[@jastiles2]

Good Job! This has helped me learn how to use Solidworks in a short amount of time. Thank you.

[@toonthijs2868]

Thanks for the video Conor! I learned some new features. Keep up the good work!

[@vespworks]

I believe you could have used the indent feature to create the body thread, which allows to “cut” with a clearance included. This eliminates the need for the extra part you created or the combine step.

[@Pis-rm6xn]

Thank you so much for this great tutorial full of tips, clearly gained by experience! You really helped me out big time! Legend

[@patxiplg]

Very good tutorial, thank you for your time! It helped a lot.

[@dcsev]

When you use the Combine command, I assume that removes exactly the same amount of material from the grooves as the amount of material of the thread, so when you 3D print it, I would guess that twisting the threads into the grooves would be extemely tight, given that there is no tolerance. So, is there a way to add a little tolerance for the thread with a slightly wider groove? Thanks!

[@Perce1ver]

Just what I needed! Many thanks!

[@normreed9886]

Very nice. Your viewers might like to see the same sort of thing done with 2-3 threads instead of 1..if they are looking for faster tighten down.

[@heitor9292]

You can increase the helix pitch and copy it. if you increase it by 2x, you need to use 2 helixes (2 threads), and so on.

[@WalkerBikes]

Thanks! got me in the right direction

[@HA-ij5zw]

Great thanks!!!!!! Do make more these types of videos…

[@robertschaefer4918]

Thanks a lot for your smart presentation! So far I used Fusion360 and I see, that Solidworks works quite similiar. Is there no automatic threading in solidworks? You did it manually ... Greetings from Munich. (One Proposal by a foreigner: Please speak a little bit more articulated /louder , so foreigner may understand better what you say, thanks)

[@rytisbertulis3325]

I am struggling with helix. The start point does not alight with the thread profile sketch and I have no idea how to modify the helix start point. Can anyone help? :)

[@samsteel4456]

You could avoid all of the offset stuff for thread clearance by simply using the indent feature to cut the threads in the "box/container" which has a built in clearance parameter. Would save you much time and effort.

[@bardluck2625]

You know ? The question is that could you show it for us sucessfully ? waiting...................

[@nilsblumfelds9603]

Didnt get how did you enlarge the thread, could you please clarify?

[@flyingjeep911]

how did you get the extra clearance in the internal threads?

[@FLORIDIANMILLIONAIRE]

Great video

[@damnstudios7]

Great! Fantastic explanation!

[@mosabalwan8967]

Would you please show the drawings and how would you do the drawings for this model?

[@Moroder_Drone]

Anyway I have followed all the indications several times, and it does not turn out right. The threads do not match when I inspect with a cross section. I give in

[@fiQmeister]

How much space should I put between these 2 objects' diameter in order to stop them from being stuck?

[@chuckjudy3474]

Using the indent feature instead of subtract would allow you to add a tolerance between the two mating parts.

[@jonms83]

Very cool, thanks for the video!

[@shilpisinghal810]

Great Work Man.

[@airsubzero]

Brilliant even though I had a lot of trouble cuz of the video's low sound

[@at-mat3789]

Thanks a lot!

[@AJAYKRISHNAMBME]

Heya, So while you cut the threads in the cylindrical cup Solidworks gives me the error of over defining. Not sure why that doesn't seem to happen in your case.

[@juliomtblife]

many thanks for your video Conor, very good!!!

[@Rallyman240]

Quick note: There's no need to create an axis for circular patterns. You can either turn on temporary axes and select one of those, or simply pick a radial surface.

[@conorwalsh_net]

Thats useful to know, I may try that out. Thanks!

[@azvrmechanicaluniverse8922]

Professional video! Great thank you!

[@marioc39]

is there a reason you decided to create that plane for the helix? instead of using the bottom face and using that as the starting point for the helix, and using that bottom face as the sketch midpoint for the thread sketch? or would that not work

[@hericperez]

Well done! Thanks!

[@mariocan976]

muchas gracias!!!! me ayudo harto!

[@Fetchdk]

Hi. Thanks for a great video. Any trouble printing the thread, overhang wise.? The angle is around 70 degrees which is quite a lot.

[@raykwa965]

Thanks that was helpful. Wondering if you have tried a smaller wall thickness than 4mm? I guess that would require the thread size to be smaller than 2.2mm as well.

[@yosabbbbb]

thank you for the tutorial, it really helped, is there a way to mate threads so they can mimic the movement?

[@conorwalsh_net]

You might be able to mate the helix's but I'm not sure I just mated to concentric circles and positioned it manually to check the part was correct though

[@higormeca]

Awesome, thank you!

[@Aurelian76]

Awesome. Thanks a lot. I did it. It worked great. I used a LULZBOT TAZ printer and worked great! Thanks man. Would it be possible to provide the technical drawing for this? Would really appreciate it. Cheers.

[@Trumppower]

what about the thread feature on solidworks ? will it work on 3d printing ?

[@pintail120]

i have tried it and it does not work, prolly for a few reasons, one is solidworks makes threads that are perfectly matched, there is no clearance between them. I have tried to change the clearances but its not easy, I can see how to change the height and the width but not the angle.

[@ihavenoname3370]

Yes it works fine but you have to make clearance manually. Make outer diameter of male part a little smaller and inner diameter of female part a little bigger before you apply threads and it will make a gap between the threads. I think I used about 0.6mm clearance for M12x1.5 threads. Try different diameters until you find one that looks about right.

[@samuellane6316]

Very well done.

[@houssemeddine2830]

great video! thank you for that it's very helpful :)

[@fns58]

Why not directly using the thread feature?

[@dr.danielkester9313]

Thank you! I love the subtraction feature. Quick question: Why is the cutting/ extrusion better than just using the "thread" feature?

[@conorwalsh_net]

Thanks Daniel, I don't think the threads feature had been released when I made this project. But it is a great addition to Solidworks and it is a much easier method of making threads than the one I describe in the video. I might update the video in the future to reflect this change.

[@dr.danielkester9313]

@@conorwalsh_net I guess it's good to know about both. I'm trying to make threads for an american garden hose (female) for a project. The hose threads are 11.5 and I didn't see that in the thread feature but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place!

[@pentachronic]

The big question is does Solidworks thread tool provide for relief between the extruded thread and the cut thread ?

[@FuriousImp]

@@dr.danielkester9313 Just a thought - maybe you can create a 10, and then in the slicer settings you print it at 115%? Would that work?

[@raykwa965]

@@pentachronic I am trying it now and don't see a way to create the clearance with the Solidworks Threads feature

[@prototype3839]

Hey, nice work! What's the material used for this print?

[@christianp3388]

Very nice

[@kirmizikuzu]

Thank you

[@tonyhill8300]

Can this be printed in one together?

[@fallenslave6684]

This is so great!

[@israeln864]

Hi How do you make the combine and you get the tolerance between the male and female?

[@sinuhe5689]

At 21:30 he was adding the offseton by making the thread in the copied cap a little bit bigger 0.2mm if Im not wrong which then will combine with the second piece

[@harshiljogi9750]

You said, all key dimensions in ur printer must be multiple of 0.4, why is it and how can i know that of my printer ?? I am a beginner.

[@conorwalsh_net]

The nozzle on my printer is 0.4mm wide you could use different measurements but they may not be exact as the printer will approximate some of the measurements to multiples of its nozzle width it works fine for most prints but when you need exact tolerances for parts to fit together it can be important

[@yvieoce]

superb that you! awesome

[@muhammadfahadzahid7202]

why not use Solidworks Thread tool?

[@fubrian2945]

The subtract function didn't give me an inside thread like in the video. It simply deleted the body. HELP!!!

[@DevilsRvge]

haha

[@TheStonedweedsmoker]

love it ! cheers

[@anwerr37]

Do you think water will leak from this design?

[@unclerico1980]

I’d think so. Maybe set up the drawing for an o-ring at the top so the cap seals against the base

[@kwangi]

perfect video! thank you!

[@rudreshjoshi8693]

price of printer

[@fredobrah9320]

Thanks for the video, very helpful. I might suggest speaking and recording louder.

[@abdelrahman5326]

Aowesome

[@maynardaba9939]

Thumbs up from me

[@JohnDoe-gv9jv]

What?? Cant hear it?

[@jimmyc451]

why doednt solidworks have "threads" tools?

[@siddiet17]

It does. if you go to insert>features>Thread

[@DanieleGrecoUK]

Would have been nicer if you shared Solidworks files rather than Step files.

[@sidekick3rida]

Thanks but needs better audio.

[@PyroEskimo7]

Definitely. I couldn't get past the first 5 minutes as I couldn't hear the audio very well even with my speakers turned to 100%

[@septiand1082]

COOL..

[@loganthemachine7841]

0.6 gap? I don’t think you need more than a half inch of gap. .060 would be a mile of clearance. .006 is would be fairly impressive from a 3D printer.

[@conorwalsh_net]

It's 0.6mm not 0.6" which is roughly 0.02" I would not recommend using imperial for something like 3D printing that requires such precision. I'm in Europe so I would never use anything but mm for engineering projects

[@marcojimenez9327]

Can't hear

[@demonicangel6561]

i wish you wouldnt just go in and out of the fillet and just do everything that was the same measurement in the same fillet.

[@keegantheveganat0r]

lol you need to skip about half way before the thread stuff begins...

[@maxmeerkat888]

Thanks for the video, but would you mind speaking a little bit louder, ive got my stuff maxed out and youre whispering like your Anne Frank

[@alejandroperez5368]

Too many fillets and you didn't cover the most important matter: creating a 3D printable thread without supports by avoiding steep overhangs.

[@DCBpower]

I must be in the back row, please speak up.

[@janvenken4719]

Why don't just use thread???

[@raulramirezpuentes4164]

13 min doing fillets, speed up. Focus on the topic.

[@conorwalsh_net]

This was intended to be a highly detailed tutorial a shortened version is also available on my channel

[@rayknn]

Such an amazing tutorial. But please stop saying 'part' the way you say it. It honestly makes me sick.

[@yefetyy]

Thank you