3D printed threads - 3 ways to model them in Fusion 360

I show you 3 different ways of modelling threads in Fusion 360. I'm showing you how the thread tool and the coil tool works. The last method uses a helical path to create any thread shape you like.
I share some best practice with you that I learned over the years and show you how to dynamically adjust the layer height to optimize the print time of your threaded part.
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[@CNCKitchen]

What's your experience with 3D printed threads? Do they work for you? Did you get them to work with different materials besides PLA?

[@mohammedabdullah3599]

CNC Kitchen ABS works great, just a little bit tight which I need and it is very STRONG. l absolutely like your videos, awesome contents 👏.

[@WetOlde]

I normally go for a M3 M4 M5 M6 or M8 screw when i have to fasten it to something. I normally make these by using a tapping tool. I had a M6 screw 3D printed with a M6 thread by making it 6mm in diameter and then, cutting the thread. It's extremely easy in a hole (keep in mind the wall thickness!) and even though it is quite hard to do on a bolt, then i'd say. An M6x50 is possible to make fully 3D printed. I know it's kind of cheating, but for really well working threads, this is the way to do it

[@TheOneAndOnIyCake]

So any M6x50 or just the one thread size you've used?

[@WetOlde]

Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod. too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod. I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN. at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm! hooe it helps

[@WetOlde]

Cake well if its M8 you could get more than 50mm in length. i mad an M6x30 when i did it, but the rod was stiff enough for a 50mm length. the problem is that you have to cut it in a rod. too thin and it'll break, and same goes for a too long rod. I'm in denmark so my thread is either iso or DIN. at work I've tried a 1/4" and a 1/8" thread. worked like a charm! hooe it helps

[@voidwanderer]

Six years later, this tutorial is still relevant and answered every single question I had about threads as a new consumer of Fusion 360 -- thank you!

[@Steve-es3fc]

And it's still missing the 3rd method marker on the timeline :D

[@BradfordNeedham]

I wish there were a "Lifesaver" button I could press, so "Like" will have to do. I've spent the past day going through various videos (even from Autocad!) that end up saying something like "Well, the thread profile doesn't turn out exactly like you wanted, but it's close." Your technique #3 is perfect for creating a thread that has a custom profile. I like a custom profile because I can control the overhang and clearance (tolerance). I've bookmarked this video because it shows the right way to make threads, simply and clearly.

[@scientist100]

Solidworks has a tool called spiral for the path and it makes making the thread so much easier for custom threads.

[@mrkeogh]

Your trick of slightly adjusting the thread faces by 0.2mm and 0.1mm worked *perfectly* for me! Thanks a million :)

[@stevekohler2876]

I realize that this video is from 2 years ago and the menus have changed so when I figured out where the commands are in the newest version of Fusion this video is a lifesaver, thanks for your efforts to explain how these commands work, it really helps.

[@TylerCaughill]

Thanks, been struggling with threads and tolerance for a while and this sorted me out completely.

[@georgeelsham]

I never clicked model... that's why I always ended up printing cylinders 😂

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad you've learned something ;-)

[@der-andyman]

yep... sounds familiar XD

[@CNCKitchen]

This option saves rendering time. Having an assembly with lots of modeled threads will kill your PC.

[@Javaritto]

​@powerChriZ The non-modeled option is useful for small holes or rods (think m3 size) that are too small to have threads printed, but should have threads cut. Fusion will provide the correct diameter for your hold/rod and document how you should cut the threads once the print is done. (Also it may use non-modeled threads in CAM but I don't know for sure)

[@TheVideoVolcano]

haha what a numpty

[@bj97301]

The threading tolerance tricks are amazing. Thank you.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

This trick to adjust the tolerances when using the Thread feature was just what I needed! Increasing it by 0.2mm on the side and 0.1mm on EACH flank worked perfect for me on my Ender 3 with some older filament (which might be part of the problem there).

[@MrPappy1990]

My friend sent me this video as I am having to 3D print threads as I don't have the taps needed. Your video is so clear and easy to follow! You even helped me with an another problem I was having (trying to make a slot in a cylinder). I am now subscribed!

[@valveman12]

This is the info I was looking for. Just made two parts and threaded them. After printing, I tried to thread them together and it was tough. So found this video and glad I did because I didn't know you can use Model to adjust the thread tolerance. Brilliant!

[@underourrock]

Your videos have helped me with my 3d printing a lot. I recommend you quite often to anyone that wants to improve the physical properties of their 3d prints. This video, 4 years after you posted it, helped tremendously with the offset faces. Fusion 360's thread modeler is very weak, but that offset faces is extremely powerful. I have an M36 Aluminum Bolt that, based on measurements, is machines to be a fairly close fit. 3d printing a protective cap for the threads using the defaults in Fusion results in a cap that is simply too tight. My 3d printer is calibrated as closely as it can be, and often prints parts that thread or slip-fit together when I am in control of the tolerances. Just want you to know that even these old are super helpful. Thanks!

[@callega]

Your video was very useful to me!!!! I had some tolerance problems in my threaded prints and with the Press Pull tool I fixed. Thanks

[@MrMalthusMusic]

This is fantastic! I have a broken filter on my air compressor and wanted to reprint a new one but wasn't sure how to model the threaded section of the old one as I am primarily a Sketchup user and making threads in Sketchup is kinda crummy. This video has given me all I need to know and some useful skills for other prints. Thanks so much, your video was nice and concise!

[@RevampedOutdoors]

Thanks for the help on that, the section analysis is really nice to make sure it is working. Couldn't quite see if the threads were matching up.

[@MichaelAlm]

This was super helpful, thank you!

[@darksideadv]

It is the best video tutorial I've seen about types of threads. Thank you so much.

[@martyngasson7003]

Thank you this was the easiest to follow and to understand out of all the thread guides I have watched 👍

[@marcellemay7721]

Great explanations of making threads in fusion 360. I just started in f360 and I really like it....It's very powerful.

[@alexandrevaliquette1941]

Happy Kitchen! I was afraid to go with Fusion 360 for my first CAD software for 3D printing. You maked it very easy to understand, thank you very much for sharing!!!

[@jerryocrow1]

Excellent instruction. I appreciate the detail, research, libary, and of course, alternative methods.

[@Allan-mf1he]

Very complete and well structured tutorial. Thanks.

[@garetha6838]

I never knew making threads could be so simple thank you.

[@jameslaine2472]

Thank you for this; I was very confused about what the 'class' option meant in Fusion 360's thread tool. And I was also finding the inner and outer threads did not fit together at all after printing, so I am hoping that your method of adding more spacing tolerance will come in handy.

[@oldfarmhand7714]

Thanks for posting this video it's very helpful in learning fusion 360 and what it can do! I hope you do more.

[@IanDouglas]

Thanks Stefan, this was extremely helpful!!

[@spikekent]

Awesome video as always Stefan. Thank you.

[@thoxin942]

Thanks a lot. Your fusion 360 tutorials are great. Keep it up.

[@ArcaneGaming]

Thank you!!! this helped so much i was breaking my head. Guys dont forget to print at a lower layer height. Threads absolutely suck with .3mm

[@timothybolton7852]

Awesome tutorial on threads! Thanks for the help!

[@erehiko]

I've been struggling printing M16x1 so many times with too "tight" thread. I'm going to try your tips.

[@mekatrol]

Fantastic, still very relevant and best explanation on KZbin!

[@929ms]

Thank you so much, best tutorial on KZbin!

[@xaexeer7429]

thank you so freaking much! I could not figure out how to get my slicer to print threads! please do more fusion tips like this

[@WildRoseBuilds]

Very helpful thanks!

[@Deefolt]

Learned something again. Very helpful tuts. 👍👍

[@JulianMakes]

Very helpful Stephan cheers! Printing some threads right now!

[@Audio_Simon]

How to adjust tolerance - Exactly what I needed, thanks!

[@KevinSmith_777]

Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for.

[@nathanjaker]

Helped a lot for my project, thanks!

[@christelledeneau7461]

Great video, super useful, thanks Stefan !!

[@pocomaxa6692]

Great video, detailed explanation. Many thanks!

[@vincentbarkley9121]

Yet another terrific video. Thank you.

[@mudaserawan1457]

Excellent video. Really Helpful. Thanks

[@kurtlindner]

This was very helpful and well explained.

[@gaetano222]

Excellent video, thanks for sharing!

[@veluthe]

Once again, you helped me out thanks

[@superkillr]

So happy I found this again. I was having REAL REAL problems dealing with threads. I basically had to chase all threads with a tap and die. Now I don't.

[@AthanCondax]

Great video man! Very useful

[@zackmcdonald5091]

thank you i didn't know about the 3d sketch geometry.

[@saltontheshelf]

Great video! Exactly what I needed to know. 👍

[@AirRider-ez5of]

Thank you for the great video! The first thread I printed was way too tight, with modifying the thread surfaces it should probably work now! Greeting from Germany ;)

[@ccleorina]

Thanks for this vid... it help me alot on Fusion 360

[@donreichert1807]

very well explained, thanks

[@StevePotgieter]

Got my sub, looking forward to binge on your videos.

[@carters2]

I just used this advanced method the other day to model some buttress threads which wasn’t something fusion can do out of the box. Very neat technique

[@igorvaz3871]

Ich bin bewundert mit dem Inhalt Qualität Ihr Videos, grüsse von Brasilien

[@Shabazza84]

Excellent video.

[@Veikra]

This helped me, thank you and have a big thumb up

[@postpone777]

Thanks a lot for sharing such a great skill...

[@garthhowe297]

I liked the first two methods ... the third one caused a small explosion in my brain... great video, thank you

[@constantinosschinas4503]

i think it exploded your head because the first step is not required. just create a custom profile, then a helix, then sweep the profile on the helix and use that to cut the cylinder.

[@Erknlssn]

@@constantinosschinas4503 How do you create a helix in fusion 360? :) Only found this workaround so far

[@jasonstokes5469]

Thanks for the post!

[@dinastia3476]

excelente tutorial, muchas gracias!!

[@adamjensen7972]

Ich habe jetzt schon ca 4Kg an Pla gedruckt und die meißten Teile hatten Gewinde. Hab mich schon gewundert das die Schrauben so schwer rein gingen. Ich hatte angenommen das M6 und kleiner nicht gedruckt werden kann und das der Slicer deshalb einfach einen Zylinder druckt..... Danke für das klasse Video!

[@76Raby]

Thanks for those tips.

[@jhbutch]

Great stuff thanks I learnt a lot.

[@risaoram]

I just printed my first 3D print last week making 3 different nuts and bolts to explore the SLA resin printer’s tolerance. I had okay results on my thread quality, but not crisp and clean. I think because of the supports blocking many of the threads, printing at 0.1 mm coarse layer setting, and my overall inexperience. Now I’ve been struggling the past 2 days trying to make custom buttress threads to replicate a 100 mm wide mouth plastic Nalgene cap with some additional mods. I’m a noob and was following another tutorial with mixed results. The third example of yours pointed out a few important details I kept getting confused on - basically external threads but modeled “inside” the cylinder. I didn’t realize that modeling it inside the cylinder was an option! That now accounts for my sizing being off the first few (ahem 20+) times. The chamfer part was also an important thing for me to see here since my design requires this as well. My part that I’m trying to model after/replicate is so tiny and really hard to get a good look at without cutting it in half. I wish someone could share semi-buttress thread profiles for SPI 100/415 Nalgene closure with me or point me to any good resources for plastic thread standards used in scientific and laboratory settings. Thanks for the informative video!

[@JohnHoranzy]

Thank you for this most excellent and concise tutorial. Pointing out the "Modeled" option just saved me hours of wasted human and print time. I see in your other videos that you are creating a lot of Primary information from your own research. I just sent you 12 Euros via PayPal. Please confirm that you received it and I am curious about how much of the 12 Euros that you actually get. Keep up the good work!

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks a lot! I'm happy that I could help. Received your donation, thank you so much! (Paypal kept 0.82€ by the way)

[@sebaseba2450]

Thank you ! You are the best

[@mam1627]

Great lesson! Thanks...

[@linus.]

Okay, thank you really much !

[@thomasweyermann5848]

I had NO idea you could move the constraints to the floating window. Coming from solidworks, this discovery is a big win!

[@mspacone]

Thank you!

[@dan55178]

Awesome video!

[@bynesetcustoms]

i learned a lot. now to make my ventilation duct for a car project installation ready with this in mind! :) thanks!

[@ahcalori2]

Great tips!

[@albertroswell]

thanks for the video!

[@ilsQ]

Thanks !!!! Had problems with the internal thread.... stupid modeling setting 😂👍👍👍

[@jjcc8379]

Just as an afterthought : If you know which gap tolerances your printer can handle ... with the section tool you can see if you can print thread rod and nut at the same time and position! Very nice tutorial, I didn't know Fusion 360 had such catalogue of threads by default ...

[@CNCKitchen]

Yup, you're right. The thing is that the threads can have some very steep overhangs which can negatively influence the tolerances, so you might need to make it a little bit more loose.

[@marculpa]

Thanks. Very nice.

[@BahalddinElsayed]

thank you for this video

[@erlinghagendesign]

ausgezeichnete Anleitung. Mehr davon! Herri / Gruss aus Kunming China

[@Grahamaan27]

15:20 "it sometimes screws it up" ... Wait I thought that's what we wanted! 😂

[@jozafax]

Great video!

[@xldz6612]

very good. im using solidworks seems there is no question about the tolerance and etc.. now im starting from zero for fusion 360

[@guyonamotorcycle1]

Thanks. I needed that. :-)

Oki, I understand, threads command is good for us lol. Great video, thx, I moved from Solidworks to Fusion 360 for manies raisons but threads is enought to change ;)

[@derekhawley9660]

Brilliant

[@climbers1376]

Beautiful

[@dnacious238]

Thnx dude, now I know what to do :D

[@thaershaheen2946]

Many thanks .

[@Alexander_Meyer]

Youre a life saver! :D

[@bullzebub]

this is why i started using fusion :D

[@AmCanTech]

Very usef

[@Road473]

Super vidéo! Tchuss!

[@elektroturk06]

excellent

[@Kangurosik]

I'm a fresh owner of a engineer deree, so I make a decision to buy my first 3D printer. Your videos are for me like a mantra. Hope with your advise my Anycubic Mega Zero will work fine

[@TheRocker991]

You are the best.

[@fyerr]

Fantastic helpful video than you heapss

[@jojodroid31]

Danke! Geiles video!