DA 25 training device booby trap

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[@ludekspurny5553]

I don’t know you are equipped by Czech smoke pots. You are true there are intended just for trainig. There also DA-100 which are several times bigger. As a Czech soldier I know them very well. I am proud of my country because of support of Ukraine. Greetings and support from The Czech Republic🇨🇿❤️🇺🇦

[@DrugConsumer]

god bless you my friend

[@pantherkids6276]

nemyslis si ze je to taky cech?

[@ludekspurny5553]

@@pantherkids6276 není

[@beekydogg]

I know you’re actively in a war zone, but the drip is immaculate.

[@jastrapper190]

Another method: take your two leads and affix them to a spring loaded clothes pin. Tie your trip line onto a stick or MRE spoon or another no conductive item. When the tripwire is pulled it will pull out the MRE spoon from the jaws of the clothes pin. And the spring loaded clothes pin will shut thus connecting the circuit/ignition.

[@berryreading4809]

Old school baby 😉👍 Although I think doing a tight friction wind around something non conductive works well, assuming the diameter is large enough you can add 1 or better yet 2 non conductive "pins" along with another temporary cardboard/plastic center spacer so after it's tensioned if either side slips after pulling the pin/pins you have the ability to add more tension... Of course this is still optimally not to be armed/unarmed while energized, but it does give you an emergency option for setup while less like to go boom when hooking up the power supply and realize your clothes pin conductors have slipped/moved and were touching, or shorted out on the clothespin spring 😂💥 Although clothespins have worked great for decades, but depending on local designs they may not be optimal like ones we are thinking of with a V groove in the jaw, and ideally a cheap circuit tester/multimeter would be available to check your work first, but improvising definitely has various levels depending on situation and availability of materials! Pencils work well because they aren't round like most small plastic items, but it kind of eliminates the easiness of adding "arming pins" for tensioning unless you have actual drill bits and lots of time. But I'm sure there are thousands of better designs than my suggestion that are quicker, fairly safe/reliable, and probably more effective... This is a skill many have practiced in real life by now, and the ones that didn't blow themselves up have probably become very good at very simple improvised trigger devices... I'm certainly not one of them so there's also that 😂👍

[@samsham8218]

YES!! When i saw that double loop circuit, i had a flashback to the improvised munitions/boobytrap handbooks

[@Mack_Dingo]

When I was a kid, I used film canister, razerblade, small magnet, cu wire, 9v bat and string. When string pulled, drops razer off magnet falls on to 2 wires, closing the contacts. As an adult, the 2 wire loops seems so ,much less complicated.

[@pseudomemes5267]

KISS KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID

[@Foche_T._Schitt]

I feel like I'm on a few watch lists for being subscribed to this channel.

[@danstotland6386]

YES! Welcome to the party, citizen.

[@HanzBlitz-i8t]

Probably. There is content about.. energetic chemistry that is way more spicy still being uploaded to YT that is DEFINITELY monitored by the ATF in meticulous detail. This is not about really manufacturing anything, so, there's probably less scrutiny than those others. Like Dugan for example.

[@ZZizitt]

The most basic makeshift electric boobytrap (if you have an electric fuse in your disposal). Mr. Val is using a smoke grenade as a charge but one can use pretty much anything else instead: handgranade, tnt bar, bag with homemade explosive, etc.. Truly a guerilla weapon.

[@fr4x153]

Another grat video!

[@threeoeightwadcutter2820]

I use a clothespin with the cables glued to the claws. The circuit is disconnected by a small Wood piece wich is pulled Out by the tripwire and the claws SNAP together. It has the big advantage that the circuit has enough time to ignite. By your Methode WE Had some reliability issues

[@mathiashertel1536]

Maybe try a cheap pull Switch. Makes the assembly safer and easier😊

[@berryreading4809]

Agree, but what's the fun in not getting a little risky by using what's in your pockets or laying around, good to plan on assuming you'll have the minimum before relying on the optimal 😉👍

[@Chris-sn6ck]

Valuable information, you're doing the lords work! Carry on my friend! Hit the like button people, its free!!!!

[@muhacnt7988]

What a great construct

[@LoreTunderin]

Damn these gender reveals are getting out of hand

[@dayokalyun2192]

Awesome video like always and keep it up 💪💪

[@captmuttonchops]

Algorithm engagement comment

[@mathiashertel1536]

Thanks !🎉

[@vitezslavnovak2077]

The green smoke is somehow lighter, but the blue smoke is pretty "nutritious". Impossible to look thru it. You could disappear like a ninja. It would be interesting to see other colours.

[@user-zk8tg8ko1u]

Hi Val, why was this video removed previously?

[@Athaeril]

WOW This is genius

[@Athaeril]

And the colors are really good, I don’t know it can be so bright

[@Igor_tigor]

I like your accent.

[@Echo_-tx9ve]

Still curious if the circuit could close from your hand

[@kettujabamiesukkeliukko]

Didn't you already post this?

[@joesephkingston1621]

I’m pretty sure you are correct. This was up last week.

[@john_in_phoenix]

Probably KZbin "review".

[@TheOneAndOnlySatan]

Mortar strike on blue at 5

[@ww.2]

Is it possible to buy this as privat person?

[@mrpopinfresh-w6h]

idea and or suggestion do what u will with it Can-Liquid Time Delay A time delay device for electrical firing circuits can be made using a can and liquid. Materials Required Can Liquid (water, gasoline, etc.) Small block of wood or any material that will float on the liquid used Knife 2 pieces of solid wire, each piece 1 foot (30 cm) or longer Procedure 1. Make 2 small holes at opposite sides of the can very close to the top 2. Remove insulation from a long piece of wire for a distance a little greater than the diameter of the can. 3. Secure the wire in place across the top of the can by threading it through the holes and twisting in place, leaving some slack. Make loop in center or wire. Be sure a long piece of wire extends from one end of the can. 4. Wrap a piece of insulated wire around the block of wood. Scrape insulation from a small section of this wire and bend as shown so that wire contacts loop before wood touches bottom of container. Thread this wire through the loop of bare wire. 5. Make a very small hole (pinhole) in the side of the container. Fill container with a quantity of liquid corresponding to the desired delay time. Since the rate at which liquid leaves the can depends upon weather conditions, liquid used, size of hole, amount of liquid in the container, etc., determine the delay time for each individual case. Delays from a few minutes to many hours are possible. Vary time by adjusting liquid level, type of liquid (water, oil) and hole size. How to Use 1. Fill can with liquid to the same level as during experimental run (step 5 above). Be sure that wooden block floats on liquid and that wire is free to move down as liquid leaves container. 2. Connect wires to firing circuit. Note: A long term delay can be obtained by placing a volatile liquid (gasoline, ether, etc.) in the can instead of water and relying on evaporation to lower the level. Be sure that the wood will float on the liquid used. Do not make pinhole in side of can!

[@chrisr251]

Why did this one get pulled down and reposted several days later?

[@john_in_phoenix]

I suspect it was reviewed.

[@mrpopinfresh-w6h]

Methyl Nitrate Dynamite A moist explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and methyl alcohol. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. Materials Required to make nitric acid Nitric Acid Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume) Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by volume) Motor vehicle batteries Industrial plants 2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable) Pot or frying pan Heat source (wood, coal, or charcoal) Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc. but not cellophane) Paper or rags Important: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. Do not inhale fumes. Note: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonfuls of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonfuls of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of concentrated sulfuric acid. Procedure 1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed. Caution: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. 2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces. 3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower than bottle containing paste so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle. 4. Build fire in pot or frying pan. 5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle. Caution: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid. 6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6 Caution: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a sealed ceramic or glass container. Sulfuric acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear Nitric acid Field grade nitric acid (section 1.4) or 90% concentration (1.48 specific gravity) Methyl alcohol Methanol Wood alcohol (not denatured alcohol) Antifreeze (nonpermanent) Eyedropper or syringe with glass tube Large diameter glass (2 quart) jar Narrow glass jars (1 quart) Absorbent (fine sawdust, shredded paper, shredded cloth) Cup Pan (3 to 5 gallon) Teaspoon Wooden stick Steel pipe with end cap Blasting cap Water Tray Procedure Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16-1/2 teaspoons of nitric acid in the 2 quart jar. Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes 2. Place the jar in the pan (3 to 5 gallon) filled with cold water or a stream and allow acid to cool. 3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the liquid (without splashing) while keeping the bottom portion of the jar in the water 4 While continually swirling, add to mixture, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, 13-1/2 teaspoons of methyl alcohol, allowing mixture to cool at least one minute between additions. Caution: If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced or if the solution suddenly turns much darker or begins to froth, dump solution in the water within 10 seconds. This will halt the reaction and prevent an accident. 5. After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 30 to 45 seconds. 6. Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar to stand in water for approximately 5 minutes until two layers separate. 7. With an eyedropper or syringe, remove top layer and carefully put into another narrow glass jar. This liquid is the explosive. Caution: Explosive is shock sensitive. 8. Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture to separate again as in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer. 9. Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or syringe and discard. 10. Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray. 11. While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass is very damp but not wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use. Note: If mixture becomes too wet, add more absorbent. If storage of explosive is required, store in a sealed container to prevent evaporation Caution: Do not handle liquid explosive or allow to contact skin. If this happens, flush away immediately with large quantity of water. Keep grit, sand or dirt out of mixture. How to Use 1. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar. 2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix. Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated with commercial #8 or any military blasting cap materials required Potassium chlorate Medicine Manufacture of matches Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Medicine Lubricant Piece of round stick Wide bowl or other container for mixing ingredients Procedure 1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder until it looks like face powder or wheat flour. 2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead) until a uniform paste is obtained. Note: Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready to use.

[@mrpopinfresh-w6h]

RDX can be obtained from C4 explosive with the use of gasoline. It can be used as a booster explosive for detonators or as a high explosive charge. materials required Gasoline C4 explosive 2 pint glass jars, wide mouth Paper towels Stirring rod (glass or wood) Water Optional (RDX can be air dried instead) Ceramic or glass dish Pan Heat Source Teaspoon Cup Tape Procedure 1. Place 1-1/2 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 explosive in one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240 milliliters) of gasoline. Note: These quantities can be in creased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2 gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C4. 2. Knead and stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into small particles. Allow mixture to stand for 1/2 hour. 3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of the jar. 4. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash the particles collected on the paper towel with 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of gasoline. Discard the waste liquid. 5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic dish. Set the dish in a pan of hot water, not boiling, and dry for a period of 1 hour The RDX particles may be air dried for a period of 2 to 3 hours.

[@sbura_]

why did it fall at the end ?

[@fritzhaber3994]

Because it melted through the cable tie and tape when the smoke pot got hot after the composition burned out.

[@mrpopinfresh-w6h]

Coke Bottle Shaped Charge This shaped charge will penetrate 3 inches (7-1/2 cm) of armor. (It will disable a vehicle if placed on the engine or engine compartment) materials required Glass Coke bottle, 6-1/2 ounce (192 ml) size Plastic or castable explosive, about 1 pound (454 grams) Blasting cap Metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) inside diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best results. Plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) Nonmetal rod about 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter and 8 inches (20 cm) or more in length Tape or string 2 tin cans if castable explosive is used note. Cylinder may be cardboard, plastic, etc. if castable explosive is used Procedure 1. Place plug in mouth of bottle. 2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests on widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of bottle. 3. (A) If plastic explosive is used: Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder is full. (B) Press the rod about 1/2 inch (1 cm) into the middle of the top of the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. 4. If castable explosive is used, follow procedure step 4, a through f. step 4 to F 4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used: a. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or nonsparking metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can. b. Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will accomplish this. Caution: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container. c. Heat the container on an electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting. Caution: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be poisonous. d. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. During this time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in the container of hot water. This will preheat the bottle so that it will not crack when the explosive is poured. e. Remove the bottle from hot water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten explosive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with a wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary until the bottle is filled to the top. f. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about 1/2 inch (12 mm) deep. How to Use Method I - If Electrical Blasting Cap is Used 1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive. Caution: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to be detonated. 2. Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target. If target is not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any convenient means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off. Caution: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing between the target and the base of the bottle 3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit. Method II - If Nonelectrical Blasting Cap is Used 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Caution: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay 2. Follow steps 1, 2, and cautions of Method I. 3. Light fuse when ready to fire.

[@mrpopinfresh-w6h]

if you would like to know how to make C4 explosives let me know and I can give you the information for that, but I don't want to post that here

[@Tr4wnet]

Why the reupload? @Valgear

[@Mack_Dingo]

KZbin probably flagged something in it. Probably wasn't his choice.

[@john_in_phoenix]

​​@@Mack_Dingo I think KZbin got anxious due to the title. Probably worried about boobs.