Daikin VRV Field Settings | Recommended Settings for Residential VRVS & VRV Life Systems 12-10-2021

[@markhuckins272]

I have learned so much watching your videos. Great work.

[@InverterAlways]

thank you! consider becoming a member and join the family - i'm working on some exclusive early-access content this weekend actually hoping to have it ready by xmas.

[@ravinbechan9186]

THANKS FOR ALL YOU DO I WATCED ALL OF YOUR VIDEO AND LEARNED A GREAT DEAL OF INFO VERY HELPFUL MY FIRST VRV SYSTEM I TOOK OVR JOB THAT WAS NOT DONE CORRECTLY AND INFO AND KNOWLAGE GAINED FROM YOU WAS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME

[@InverterAlways]

That's awesome to hear thanks for the great feedback! I'm glad you found this helpful.

[@markhuckins272]

After subscribing and watching your videos I was really excited because I learned so much from you. Started up a system today on a VRV with two fan coils. One worked perfect did the field settings and connected the smoke detector just like I learned from you. The second unit- blank screen on the wall controller. I checked the wiring from the unit to the controller and even tested the wire for continuity. I have DC output (16.48) at T1/T2, no DC output at P1/P2 at the terminal block. I have 208 volt power at the X28A connector. Both LEDs are blinking just like the other working unit. All the plugs are connected well at the A1P board. I think the board is DOA. What a rough day, had such high hopes. I really aspire to become an expert with Daikin systems.

[@InverterAlways]

What is the indoor model and what is connected to t1t2. I've seen shorts on p1p2 cause issues. Try running a new wire just temporarily from unit to stat see if it works. That clears up the wire potentially being short (very common).

[@ronniehall7114]

Thank you!!!!

[@J.Lachaine]

Honestly, thank you for making this content! This video solved my issue within 5min. 🙏

[@InverterAlways]

Glad this helped. Hopefully you stuck around for the rest of the video too 😉

[@J.Lachaine]

@@InverterAlways I did! I also shared your channel in our works group chat a said "this dude's a beast" 💪

[@mcdouche2]

I have my deadband set to 1 degree F, but I have found that it is closer to 1.5-1.75 degree F and I attribute that to the system being programmed in Celsius and having to convert to Fahrenheit for us imperial heathens. It’s sloppy because there are 1.8 degrees F in 1 degree C and I would bet the system deals with temperature as integer only.

[@InverterAlways]

And it always rounds to the nearest whole number. So on the stat sometimes it does appear a little higher than just 1 straight up. If you plug in a service checker it's usually pretty darn close though for actual thermo on/off status. The fan operation and eev throttling reaction time might be affecting the additional drift. Either way 99 percent of the time maintaing setpoint with the 1 degree setting is comfortable. I rarely have issues with it in my market. Every now and then you get the folks who want instantaneous on/off from the slightest movement off setpoint. Inverter is not on/off technology and sometimes it's hard to explain to the stat lookers that your body can't even recognize 1 degree lol. Letting it drift, turn on, operate to maintain that setpoint then eventually turn off if and when it overshoots 1 degree is far better for efficiency than immediately turning on from the slightest drop and immediately turning off again when the stat ticks up a tenth of a degree lol.

[@Blueblurr112]

Thanks Dana really appreciate it my friend.

[@InverterAlways]

No problem thank you!

[@creativeproperty6844]

Hey man love the videos and they’ve helped a love with my first few VRV installs. I have a question about a system we installed that started making a gurgling and hissing sounds from the one way ceiling cassettes when they get a call for heat or cool. It’s pretty loud and is waking the customer up at night😬 Any ideas or things I can check?

[@InverterAlways]

Noise is always a challenge. Could be due to turbulence from tight bends in quick succession of each other right at the unit. Could be low on charge too. Could be a kinked line set somewhere near that head. Shoot it could just be the unit making a call or satisfying the call and the expansion valve position change causes that noise. Whats the fan set to do in thermo off? I always try to avoid putting units right near the bed since folks are sometimes super sensitive to sounds. You put dchecker on it to analyze performance?

[@creativeproperty6844]

@@InverterAlways I’ve never heard that regarding bends at the head unit. We do have a two 90’s within the last 2’ of line set. I’ll have to look them over. Do you typically stick with air low or medium static air handlers when you zone each bedroom?

[@InverterAlways]

@@creativeproperty6844 it's not usually a problem if you have a foot then a bend then a foot then a bend. I'm talking about where you flare the unit then immediately bend then immediately bend again those bends super tight can sometimes increase harmonics just from increases to turbulence. Most of the time it's not bad, sometimes it just gets done that one way where it increases noise. Noises are super challenging so take a peak at it then take some dchecker data to see if the system is performing right. Make sure it's not low on charge or anything. The style of the unit is not always ducted we do tons of wall units. Floor unit. And cassettes in bedrooms just usually try to avoid close to the bed. 1 way fxeq are my favorite because the case of the unit is above ceiling so you have some flexibility as to where you put it. Where's 4 way fxzq must go in center of room which I don't like because I want my lights and ceiling fixtures to remain.

[@creativeproperty6844]

@@InverterAlways That the exact reason I like them as well for residential applications. I’ll give that a try and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help!

[@creativeproperty6844]

@@InverterAlways could the noice be caused by an over charge?

[@ΝικόλαοςΝτακουβάνος]

In my opinion the field settings are separated per installation and differ from site to site. Also i have seen a lot of caces where hotel residents leave another "custom" made key card just to keep the ac on all the time. Moreover in some cases where there is no central controller installed the customer will constantly play with the thermostat going to the extreme limits , i know that you are already aware of this, there are more hotel field settings and button combination to prevent such occasions. Maybe you could do a hotel settings video for the brc1d52 as well....

[@InverterAlways]

Remember this list is for resi jobs. Vrvs equioment. Commercial applications definitely have more settings utilizes and yes hotel apps also have unique settings. This was a basic list recommended for homes. To keep things nice and simple. 99 percent of the time this covers you, where you need more, then the install has unit specific settings for those circumstances 👍

[@anthonyc826]

Hey what’s up bro I recently came across your channel and I love it! I have a question can I see the port letter on a thermostat to figure out which indoor unit that thermostat belongs to?

[@InverterAlways]

No, but in order to see which indoor unit a stat controls you can go to forced fan on a nav controller and it will turn on thr fan for the indoor it's wired to. Make sure to turn the stat off before though so that way you can see which one turns on. This is also used to determine which indoor is which when a group of indoors are all wired to a single nav controller. The bs port it gets wired to does not show up which is why it's so important to label wiring and carefully land the wire on the port of the branch box it was piped to.

[@anthonyc826]

@@InverterAlways thanks man for the quick answer

[@cranbers]

Here is is another question I had. In your experience with the daikin one, has the thermostat been off temp in epic fashion? LIke 2-5 degrees? So you have to manually calibrate it? I have thermometers sitting next to the daikin one, Daikin one would say 73, different thermometers next to it say 76. So you have to go into dealer settings and adjust it to match +3. One other thing that is interesting about this is right after the thermostat is rebooted, it reads right ( about 3 degrees lower). Then after some time, it goes back to 3 degrees higher then thermometers around it.

[@InverterAlways]

Sometimes they are off. Just adjust it as you mentioned. Once it reboots it will take a moment to adjust. I turn off my led light as well to help prevent any additional heat given off by the light. It's also a distracting light I prefer not to look at.

[@iamspartacus8219]

Can you discuss settings to use when in Auto mode?

[@InverterAlways]

If you have a vrvs 1 to 1 (only 1 indoor unit) then you can set it up the same way as any other system, just with dual setpoints in this case. Mini split systems and multi zone vrvs I don't like using auto, I just put it in heat, or put it in cool. Regardless, the field settings on vrvs all pretty much stay consistent in most cases and only some change based on a certain user's preference. For example fan off in heat thermo off due to comfort complaints.

[@markhuckins272]

I need to install a smoke detector on a FXMQ I know how to wire it but can't find any info if I need a field setting to force the fan off. Thanks.

[@InverterAlways]

you will need to set field settings to forced off for T1T2 with smoke detectors. Mode 22 1-01. No need to change fan it will shut the unit off entirely.

[@ronniehall7114]

Installing my first vrv this week. Vrv coil with gas heater and a single floor mount unit upstairs. I wanna use 2 daikin one stats instead of the nav controllers. Does mych change as far as set up and commissioning? And how do i select the master contoller on the daikin one stats?

[@InverterAlways]

Same settings just getting in to the menu is different. It will ask you when you commission if you want to set it as the master there's a checkbox for it. Check out my daikin one playlist I have a whole series on that stat to help you. Congrats on your first Install I hope it goes well. Vrv life with gas furnace is super neat too I installed that on my house when it first came out.

[@ronniehall7114]

@@InverterAlways thanks

[@roccomassello1767]

Very curious if you have ever come across humidity problems with these units. I have done two types of installs. One being a residential house with a single air handler and Madoka stat and the other was a commercial building with all ceiling cassettes and Brc1e stats and both installs have really high humidity during the summer. They also both have problems with the deadband. Both installs have a problems with the temp not staying consistent. I’m more curious about the humidity problems than the temp problems. I did set the deadband to 1 degree on both but it hasn’t helped much. Curious if you have come across these problems. Thanks for any feedback

[@InverterAlways]

Depends if you're installing vrv or mini splits, since nav Controllers and madoka stats work with any p1p2 indoor style. Mini splits have wider deadbands while vrv does a pretty good job of sticking to setpoint. I haven't had much issue except for jobs improperly sized or installed, leaking systems, etc... Regarding humidity, I tell folks all the time these are NOT designed to handle dehum. They are room air conditioners not dehumidifiers. They will pull some moisture out sure, but not designed to handle much of that load. So yes I see them struggle in some applications, which is why it's important to factor in whatever dehum you may need separately from the vrv equipment.

[@iamspartacus8219]

Also what settings in heating to overcome air stratification.

[@InverterAlways]

Keep the fan on low low when heat thermo off to keep air movement going and room consistent temperature. Other than that you should be good.

[@cranbers]

Hey its me again! Cooling season, and after the last few months of no issues with heating with VRV life with single coil and propane as backup, it brings the house to temp in a matter of just a few mins say 10 ( say from 69-71 set for 70). However its 78 in my house right now, cooling mode to 73 has been running for 30 mins, I feel cold our coming out of registers but temp its only dropped 1 degree usually takes HOURS to get temp down 4 or 5 degrees and some days it never shuts off hovering at a degree or 2 above temp setting. Is this your experience? Why does it take so much longer to cool a house down / maintain temp in cooling mode then heating it? Is it because of size of compressor is much smaller when its in reversing mode or something? Thanks always love your advise and knowledge on this system.

[@InverterAlways]

Shouldn't take THAT long. What is the fan speed in cooling? Should be on high or auto for that unit. If the fan is on low the sensible capacity of the coil is decreased so that may be part of it. Glad it's heated well though. 1 other thing to make sure you do is make sure set point isn't drastically higher, then when you switch to cool cranking down the setpoint. Just like you maintain heat set to 70 you want to maintain cooling at say 72, or whatever is comfortable for you. It will call when room gets to a degree above cool setpoint and should maintain no problem. Obviously check filters and make sure outdoor coil is clean. But other than that nothing field setting wise that should need adjustment based on your past setting adjustment.

[@cranbers]

@@InverterAlways One thing I did just notice 90 mins into the cooling cycle, the system ramped up drastically all of a sudden, I did notice though the first hour the system must of been in "low" speed mode but for last 20 mins the system is pumping out the cold air like gang busters, the fan is set to auto, and it seems to be on HIGH now as far as air flow coming out. temp is now at 74 so 60 mins to go from 78 to 76 but less then 30 to go from 76 to 74. Not too bad its night time outside temp is 77. the unit is set in the "recirculation mode" to auto. I guess we will see how it performs on 90 degree days. As mentioned in the past to you the unit would never hit set temp, it would run all day long with the daikin one blue light on, (set temp would be 72 never get below 73 or 74.) I also noticed they went through quite a few software revisions in the daikin one, I'm on 2.8.2 they were stuck on at 2.4.3 for months but seems to have updated a few times last few months.

[@cranbers]

Here is another way to rephrase my question/ concern and what are your thoughts.. I had the system VRF Life system for a year with the older style thermostat never looked at it never had any issues. Then I got the daikin one with the huge indicator light its running, with the temp in full display. So now its obvious what the temp is and how often the unit is running. So it leads to a lot of confusion when its always running and not hitting set temp (and of course even goes below set temp by a degree or 2 before it actually stops cooling). But if its maintaining the air at low power not the on- off way were used to, it causes major confusion. Is my system not able to hit set temp, is something wrong or is it just being energy efficent? *All winter it would hit set temp for heating no issues. On 10 mins, off 20 mins.. *in summer it never shuts off and runs all day at low power mode, never hitting set temp. Then at night, it will go below set point a degree or 2 before shutting off. So very confusing for end customers.

[@cranbers]

ok so here is my example: System has been in cooling mode for 3 1/2 hours. Its at 73, set to 73, its still cooling and fan speed is very low right now. So this is the time the unit confuses me, I guess its trying to get to 73.0 its at 73.5 or something? And its trying not to over shoot so its just in lowest possible mode trying to get there? Thanks.

[@InverterAlways]

@@cranbers if you set field setting mode 22 6-02 then it will run fan on whatever the stat speed is all the time in cool mode so no need for air circulation to be enabled at all (just fyi). So you heat to 70 and cool to 74? If you're mode is set to auto heat/cool it won't even switch until room is 75 or 76 anyways. If you manually set it to cool mode though once you get it down to setpoint leave the setpoint there and it should maintain well. They aren't great at recovering, designed more for maintaining. Its possible the unit was sized for a cooling load and is just oversized for the homes heating needs. Hard to say though for sure. Hopefully once you are maintaining in cool mode it won't have any issues though.

[@russellbrammer193]

How's it going 👍 just have quick question doing a install on a vrf system adding some spit systems + 2 twinducted not had problems adding spits but the 2 twin system won't take the field setting 21 mode , any idea why👍

[@InverterAlways]

Yes you need to set it for each unit number. Unit 0 and unit 1. I did a few videos on this in the past. Check out the nav controller playlist.

[@ole9313]

Last week I replaced my Trane old gas heat cooling only condensing unit with a new Daikin 3 ton VRV with CXTQ coil and 80% gas furnace and ONE controller. 2 questions. Is there a setting available where to allow the control to have a toggle between where I can select gas heat or heat pump control? I have some friends I’m slated to install systems like mine and they may want to operate on gas instead of heat pump at their discretion. Is there a way to turn down the condenser fan to a quite mode for heating. I can hear the condenser fan running inside my home living room and the condensing unit is a ways away from this room, I did do a wall bracket so maybe some of what I’m hearing is transferring down that wall.

[@InverterAlways]

Great questions. Your gas heat is intended for backup or emergency heat, you can set this up a few ways. I did a video on this very recently actually just after this video you commented on. Check it out it will help answer some of this. You can always set up the outdoor temp lockout too from the outdoor unit to tell the heat pump you want gas to come on sooner. The default is 14F outside I believe (or 15F). There isn't a way to just manually turn on gas from the stat though at least not at this time. Regarding noise of the fan, there is a nighttime noise setting but it reduces the whole system capacity so not only is the fan speed decreased so is the compressor. Are you setting your temp back much at night from morning setpoint? If the unit is always maintaining and not trying to recover this helps immensely keep the capacity need down and therefore the fan speed down as well. The wall mounted bracket on the condenser can increase noise though. I prefer to put units on stands myself but that's just my preference. The unit is internally isolated for vibration noise but I have commonly heard there is still some sound that travels from the unit through the bracket through the wall. First things first though try to maintain and keep the unit running at a lower speed naturally. If that doesn't work then you can always try something else and if you want gas heat instead of heat pump heat it's a matter of adjusting some settings at the outdoor and at the stat such that heat pump locks out in heat and runs gas all the time.

[@ole9313]

10-4. I am currently not setting my system back, so I may have a chance with night quite mode, if you have any details how to set up quite mode, that’d be awesome. I haven’t noticed that in any of the install manuals, I also have my vendor trying to dig up info. Unfortunately they sell more commercial products, so they are having to learn some new things themselves. I was thinking I was being smart with the wall bracket. I may move the unit to base instead. We’ll see. Thank you very much….

[@InverterAlways]

@@ole9313 it's a setting in the service manual. I'll try to look tonight when I'm free. There's a list and I haven't memorized that particular one. I'll send it over once I check.

[@InverterAlways]

@@ole9313 also I wouldn't pull it off unless you've exhausted all other options. Moving it to a stand is going to take the most labor so let's try software adjustments first those are easy.

[@InverterAlways]

@@ole9313 of course now I am curious. How long is the line set length on your unit?

[@shanegrant8836]

Quick question about the deadband setting - have an FDMQ18RVJU controlled with a Daikin One+ thermostat through the translation adaptor. I'm surprised that I don't see any ability to change the mode 22 2-XX field setting as it is entirely missing from the available options. Is this setting just not available on the FDMQ or is this some kind of configuration error? The thermostat seems to behave as if it has a 2 degree deadband and it would be great to tighten it to 1 degree.

[@InverterAlways]

You are correct in that the fdmq does not have deadband settings. It's not a vrv indoor unit. The daikin one is hard coded and cannot be changed. The deadband on daikin one is set to a historesis of 1 degree, so it has to hit 1 degree past setpoint to trigger then 1 more degree satisfies for a total of 2.

[@ynnametcilap9838]

Hello, can you help me out on how to reset or trouble shoot with an error of U4-01 DaikinVRV IV ?Thanks for the answer.

[@InverterAlways]

Communication error. Go check your wiring most likely something isn't landed correctly. Or something doesn't have power

[@markhuckins272]

should have waited for the rest of the video. So I can wire my smoke to the normally open contacts and if the detector trips it will shut the fan off.

[@InverterAlways]

lol all good

[@leechase7974]

Tstat

[@russellbrammer193]

Vrv system not vrf 👍

[@InverterAlways]

Same thing I knew what you meant 😉

[@russellbrammer193]

Thanks for the advice, back on site tomorrow hopefully it will work daikin tech told me mode 21 unit o2 didn't work , great videos 👍